Hi brought a Richard's chassis round about 16 years ago for my series three, rebuilt from ground up and had no problems at all, chassis still as good as when brought, have now sold. Gone on too a D 2 td5 which I shall be rebuilding.
Thanks for a great view of the bottom of the chassis. I was able to see exactly what I needed to without having to go outside and crawl under my Land Rover.
I bought Richard chassis for mine although they weigh a lot more I can't see anything but this being a good thing. You say you wanted to keep it original Land Rover but it's a 300 TDI with TD5 rear crossmember. Everything fitted perfectly on mine can't comment on Marslands as I've not use them.
I've had a marsland with parts missing... Totally agree with the No-go td5 rear end and the extra thickness can only be a benefit for what, 15kg-ish (and about £1000 less...
Totally agree Will Marsland for me! I was let down by Richards and they will not get my business again! Good point about the HD options - I get it all the time about buying the most heaviest duty parts - to go to a campsite or a run down the shops! Mike
Very useful thanks. Ultimately this is what I want to do for my 110. The fact that it's dulled down slightly will probably help if you intend to paint it. Maybe I should get on and buy one!
Always find the weld splatter / snots really annoying on a galvanised chassis. Years ago I knocked these off before I had a chassis galvanised, OCD? No just wanted to clean up someone else’s work, after all that’s what you do when you weld at home. Glad Doc Mike recommenced your site👍. Laters Johnny the Broadstairs hoveller
FWIW when I worked for what was then in the 1980's LRPE (Land Rover's parts division) responsible for outsourcing/re-sourcing Series/Defender chassis I chose Marsland because of their superior quality, experience, production facilities and willingness to work to OE standards. Consequently they were allowed access to genuine OE subcomponents such as the C section chassis rails. There are pros and cons to galvanising, eg surface finish, need to drill out holes and susceptibility to warping.
The bump or raised area at 10:42 is heat distortion from when the weld the little overlapping angle from bottom of trailing arm mount to chassis rail web
Very nice chap. Nice to see a Marsland chassis up close. I have always thought about using them but never actually done it as Richards' chassis are literally down the road from me.
These are very good chassis, but no good leaning against a wall. I had mine delivered and replaced the one in my 1996 300TDI 90. No problems with putting it in that I know about, some threads needed cleaning and it still looks as it did when it was delivered in 2011.
Not a fan of c section chassis rails with open overlaps on the inside that trap moisture. Also debatable if the galv actually gets in between the overlaps inside, doubt it very much, it just bridges it. Richards chassis for me.
Thanks Jim. I'm not sure how long Marslands' chassis will be OEM, as i'm surprised GKN didn't stop making them after the end of Defender production, however the guy that delivered my chassis said he was delivering dozens a week, so there must be enough demand
I would rather have an extra 30kgs added to my chassis for lower down centre of gravity,rather than a 100kg roof rack. My 36kg spare wheel is fixed to the floor of the tub. Any weight below the centre line (within reason)is a benefit to handling etc. Just my preference when tackling the big rivers and hills here in S.Island, NZ.
A thought. The critical item on our LRs etc is the chassis strength. I won't go into the structural calcs, but there is a problem when we attach accessories. 2mm mild steel (which I believe is used, not high yield steel) is quite thin. Winch bumpers, winches, recovery points etc all made from 5, 6, 7mm steel bolted onto 2mm steel...think about it...there is something not right is there. A few 4x4s use 4 or 5mm steel in the chassis which is more like it. These are Ford Transit pickups supporting a largely static load on road, these 4x4s get bounced around, yomped, yanked, twisted, sagged, hogged and we rely on 2mm steel in box sections 70mm x 80mm at the front end. I've massively reinforced my chassis rails ti withstand the loads, especially where I'm mounting a 5ton winch, recovery eyes etc. LR may have deemed the chassis adequate, but we now take our trucks way beyond original expected live loadings. I'd prefer the whole chassis in 4mm HS steel, especially for centre of gravity.
For originality I prefer Richards chassis so that I can have the correct rear cross member rather than Td5 type…….The four plate construction method employed by Richards is, of course, the way Land Rover used to produce their chassis in years gone by and I always think looks and feels more substantial than the two C section chassis.
I'm a bit smitten by the Td5 style crossmember, so maybe that's biased my choice. I think Richards started out by producing Series chassis (4 plates as you say) so maybe they just used the same process for Defender ones. Thanks for the comment!
I don't have the credentials to say what the strength difference may be (if any), but for me it's an aesthetic difference - knowing that underneath it's more "Defender" than "kit car" :)
@@lrworkshop I think the Landcruiser 70 chassis are C section welded as well? It might be something that adds to the overall rigidity and stiffness of the ladder frame design, used by Land Rovers and Land Cruisers. Cheers!
I've got a video i've got to edit about the 70 series chassis.... soon! They are two C sections but one fits inside the other, so there is double thickness of material top and bottom
The advantage is price - pressing the sections into C is cheap. Welding by hand is expensive. This later method halves the welding required on each rail.
I got a Marsland chassis for my 109. It was disgracefully inaccurate, needing substantial rectification to the numerous misjigs and errors found during vehicle build, but they did at least pay for the repair work.
Would it not be prudent to wax/preservative (Dynax S50/Dinitrol ) inject this if it is possible to get a compressor near enough? If its going to be standing around for a few years pending your rebuild.
Possibly. It was pissing with rain when it arrived mid winter and has been covered and dry since. It's definitely something i'd do when rebuilding, but for the moment it's 400 miles from where I live
That finish really is terrible, no one heard of a grinder before galv'ing it. There are a few BIG issues with using a modified Puma chassis, one, it's not original like-for-like, Yes it has OM parts to it, but that's not the manufacturer, Marsland is, as they did the final outfitting to it. Sleeves on bushes is a terrible idea as they seize in. On the other hand, Richards Chassis are more correct to year with all the correct parts in the correct place and none of the problematic points that the Marsland has. Oh, and it's cheaper! The 2.5mm steel actually adds life to the chassis, quite a lot of life and generally it doesn't add a lot more weight, it will add 1/5th extra to the main chassis rails only. Honestly if you're a purist, you'd never have the td5 rear crossmemeber!
Hi brought a Richard's chassis round about 16 years ago for my series three, rebuilt from ground up and had no problems at all, chassis still as good as when brought, have now sold. Gone on too a D 2 td5 which I shall be rebuilding.
That's good to hear David. I haven't heard bad things about Richards. Thanks for the comment :)
Thanks for a great view of the bottom of the chassis. I was able to see exactly what I needed to without having to go outside and crawl under my Land Rover.
I bought Richard chassis for mine although they weigh a lot more I can't see anything but this being a good thing. You say you wanted to keep it original Land Rover but it's a 300 TDI with TD5 rear crossmember. Everything fitted perfectly on mine can't comment on Marslands as I've not use them.
I've had a marsland with parts missing... Totally agree with the No-go td5 rear end and the extra thickness can only be a benefit for what, 15kg-ish (and about £1000 less...
I fitted a Richards and it fitted perfectly, cannot fault it.
Totally agree Will
Marsland for me!
I was let down by Richards and they will not get my business again!
Good point about the HD options - I get it all the time about buying the most heaviest duty parts - to go to a campsite or a run down the shops!
Mike
Thanks for the tip about this channel, Mike! Subscribed.
I got a Marsland for my D90 last year (almost done!). Good to know it was a good choice.
Very useful thanks. Ultimately this is what I want to do for my 110. The fact that it's dulled down slightly will probably help if you intend to paint it. Maybe I should get on and buy one!
If you have the space and money, you don't need to worry about rotting in the elements! Unlike a Defender normally....
Always find the weld splatter / snots really annoying on a galvanised chassis. Years ago I knocked these off before I had a chassis galvanised, OCD? No just wanted to clean up someone else’s work, after all that’s what you do when you weld at home.
Glad Doc Mike recommenced your site👍.
Laters
Johnny the Broadstairs hoveller
I haven't quite got to that level yet... Thanks for the comment!
FWIW when I worked for what was then in the 1980's LRPE (Land Rover's parts division) responsible for outsourcing/re-sourcing Series/Defender chassis I chose Marsland because of their superior quality, experience, production facilities and willingness to work to OE standards. Consequently they were allowed access to genuine OE subcomponents such as the C section chassis rails. There are pros and cons to galvanising, eg surface finish, need to drill out holes and susceptibility to warping.
The bump or raised area at 10:42 is heat distortion from when the weld the little overlapping angle from bottom of trailing arm mount to chassis rail web
Very nice chap.
Nice to see a Marsland chassis up close. I have always thought about using them but never actually done it as Richards' chassis are literally down the road from me.
Cheers Aaron!
These are very good chassis, but no good leaning against a wall. I had mine delivered and replaced the one in my 1996 300TDI 90. No problems with putting it in that I know about, some threads needed cleaning and it still looks as it did when it was delivered in 2011.
Brittanica restorations brought me here! :)
As a lot of people!
Not a fan of c section chassis rails with open overlaps on the inside that trap moisture. Also debatable if the galv actually gets in between the overlaps inside, doubt it very much, it just bridges it. Richards chassis for me.
DPG Defenders the galvanising doesn’t need to cover every mm to be effective
Mmmmmmm, pretty sure it does. Look how fast a stone chip to paint starts to rust
This was my reasoning for a Richards chassis purchase.
Wax oiled the crap out of mine
Triangle webbing between bulkhead outrigger and radius arm mount is also on 300 Tdis and maybe earlier vehicles
Excellent video, looking into chassis at present and you have showed that marsland are oem. Many thanks Jim.
Thanks Jim. I'm not sure how long Marslands' chassis will be OEM, as i'm surprised GKN didn't stop making them after the end of Defender production, however the guy that delivered my chassis said he was delivering dozens a week, so there must be enough demand
Just wondering if you got my email earlier in week about steering shrouds? If not I can re do on ‘ask a question’.
@@jamesbarker4808 Just had a look and found it in my junk mail. Will see what I can drag up you feel free to post on "ask a question" also
I would rather have an extra 30kgs added to my chassis for lower down centre of gravity,rather than a 100kg roof rack.
My 36kg spare wheel is fixed to the floor of the tub.
Any weight below the centre line (within reason)is a benefit to handling etc.
Just my preference when tackling the big rivers and hills here in S.Island, NZ.
A thought. The critical item on our LRs etc is the chassis strength. I won't go into the structural calcs, but there is a problem when we attach accessories. 2mm mild steel (which I believe is used, not high yield steel) is quite thin. Winch bumpers, winches, recovery points etc all made from 5, 6, 7mm steel bolted onto 2mm steel...think about it...there is something not right is there.
A few 4x4s use 4 or 5mm steel in the chassis which is more like it. These are Ford Transit pickups supporting a largely static load on road, these 4x4s get bounced around, yomped, yanked, twisted, sagged, hogged and we rely on 2mm steel in box sections 70mm x 80mm at the front end.
I've massively reinforced my chassis rails ti withstand the loads, especially where I'm mounting a 5ton winch, recovery eyes etc.
LR may have deemed the chassis adequate, but we now take our trucks way beyond original expected live loadings. I'd prefer the whole chassis in 4mm HS steel, especially for centre of gravity.
Correction...these "AREN'T" Ford Transit pickups.....
For originality I prefer Richards chassis so that I can have the correct rear cross member rather than Td5 type…….The four plate construction method employed by Richards is, of course, the way Land Rover used to produce their chassis in years gone by and I always think looks and feels more substantial than the two C section chassis.
I'm a bit smitten by the Td5 style crossmember, so maybe that's biased my choice. I think Richards started out by producing Series chassis (4 plates as you say) so maybe they just used the same process for Defender ones. Thanks for the comment!
Can't understand why LR never offered a galv chassis as an option. Would have sold buckets...
Can I ask what is the advantage/disadvantage of welding the chassis as C sections, rather than on edges?
Thanks for another informative video!
I don't have the credentials to say what the strength difference may be (if any), but for me it's an aesthetic difference - knowing that underneath it's more "Defender" than "kit car" :)
@@lrworkshop I think the Landcruiser 70 chassis are C section welded as well?
It might be something that adds to the overall rigidity and stiffness of the ladder frame design, used by Land Rovers and Land Cruisers.
Cheers!
I've got a video i've got to edit about the 70 series chassis.... soon!
They are two C sections but one fits inside the other, so there is double thickness of material top and bottom
The advantage is price - pressing the sections into C is cheap. Welding by hand is expensive. This later method halves the welding required on each rail.
You’ll get more stresses in the welds. But remember, series vehicles were built this way
That gearbox cross member is not like the factory 300 Tdi type. It’s missing gussets and rubber mount points
I got a Marsland chassis for my 109. It was disgracefully inaccurate, needing substantial rectification to the numerous misjigs and errors found during vehicle build, but they did at least pay for the repair work.
These eruptions are due to the galvanisers not cleaning the galvanising tank regularly. Some are better than others.
That's good to know. Thanks!
Are these defender chassis the same as a TD5 disco 2?
Been looking for a good quality one for my dad's one
Would it not be prudent to wax/preservative (Dynax S50/Dinitrol ) inject this if it is possible to get a compressor near enough? If its going to be standing around for a few years pending your rebuild.
Possibly. It was pissing with rain when it arrived mid winter and has been covered and dry since. It's definitely something i'd do when rebuilding, but for the moment it's 400 miles from where I live
Is this chassis now under your Land Rover?
Nope. Might be a couple more years yet
@@lrworkshop That's a shame.... It seems you have a great collection of parts ready 👍
That finish really is terrible, no one heard of a grinder before galv'ing it. There are a few BIG issues with using a modified Puma chassis, one, it's not original like-for-like, Yes it has OM parts to it, but that's not the manufacturer, Marsland is, as they did the final outfitting to it. Sleeves on bushes is a terrible idea as they seize in. On the other hand, Richards Chassis are more correct to year with all the correct parts in the correct place and none of the problematic points that the Marsland has. Oh, and it's cheaper! The 2.5mm steel actually adds life to the chassis, quite a lot of life and generally it doesn't add a lot more weight, it will add 1/5th extra to the main chassis rails only. Honestly if you're a purist, you'd never have the td5 rear crossmemeber!
A purist in terms of ROW spec rather than 90's spec.
Richards defender chassis is not insurance approved.
Shameful welding spatter all over this chassis nothing to be proud of.
My catle fence looks better than this. I wouldn't be too happy to pay that amount of money for this ''quality''.