The Sugihara bars are excellent! It's solid steel, substantial rails machined in. The light bar is just machined into a truss, giving up a lot more weight while maintaining rigidity...more optimized, but costly machine time.
It will be interesting to see if the light bar holds up!! I haven’t heard if the lighter weight bars hold up as long as a regular bar. If anyone is going to find out it will be you with as much cutting as you do!! Thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻GNI
I used a stihl light on my 572. I have a sugi also which is the light husky and the stihl is noticeably lighter. Elongate slot. Use cannon adaptor and make holes larger. Little bit of work but I feel the stihl is a superior bar.
Chris...You may want to consider the new West Coast Saw 3/8 (.375) raker gauge. There are several really nice features. First, it seems to made of hardened steel so it doesn't get worn as quickly as the newer Husky, Stihl, and Oregon gauges. Also, it has openings so you can set your rakers at .025, .030, .035, and .040. My chains cut much smoother when I get all of the rakers at the same height; something I was never able to do using the eyeball/count the strokes method.
Maybe everyone knows this, but until the re-introduction of the husqvarna light bars (very recently) people were using stihl ES light bars on D009 large husqvarna mount saws. It requires an adapter to use the 13mm slot on the 9mm slot on the D009. They're widely available. Also, the slot might have to be ground further to allow more "retraction" to get the chain on if using the recommended amount of drive links from Husqvarna.
My first Husky X-tough light bar I purchased in a 28" last year cracked right above the bar studs after I cut 12 ash trees with it. I have had several Sugihara bars that developed hairline cracks along the rails (so have other loggers using Sugi bars in my area). Husky did warranty the bar. The bars and tips are a PITA to dress up with a file dresser. As hard as they are they do not last as long as a Tsumura, or Stihl bars. The Stihl ES light bars are the lightest, then the Tsumura. Overall the Tsumura light bars have held up the best for me daily logging. The 24" x-tough light bar on the 592xp I was testing has yet to crack but is wearing faster than the oregon bar I ran on it. The Stihl bars are easily adapted by lengthening the bar slot, drill out the tensioner holes, and install a cannon CBW-20030 adaptor plate. Light bars are the best thing to come along for chainsaws, now they need to make even lighter ones (28") to balance a 462 and 500i properly.
Even though I don’t own any husky hand held equipment. This video I feel is very educational for those who either have never maintained hand held equipment before, or for those who want to learn; and save a buck or two. Just make sure it doesn’t void an manufacturer warranties
Morning Chris, real good clear info you gave on the rakers, that’s one beautiful, top quality new bar. Look forward to your Unbiased, fair comparison of the big saws. Take care
Nice looking bar there Chris. I been running a Sugi bar on my Jonsered for a couple of years with no problems. It was a pound and a half lighter than the stock bar.
My husqvarna dealer offered me a 36 inch light bar for my 592XP when I brought it, declined the offer, put a husky tsumura 36 inch light bar full chisel chisel chain,best decision I ever made 😊
My echo cs7310p as keeper nuts on the side cover too. I put a little grease on my adjuster threads on the inside. Run it up and down. Seems to work out really smooth.
Thanks for the video. I have a 24” X-tough lite on my 562XP, a 28” X-tough lite bar on my 592XP and the 32” X-tough bar (63 gauge) on my 395XP. After all the side by sides, I haven’t found a more balanced combination and effective power to bar length ratio to date. Also, I have a full skip chain on the 395XP.
I like that little pick idea. I personally blow off my stuff. I try to after every time I cut, but sometimes it's every other time. I definitely need to try the Dremel for sharpening.
Hi, you are right about your gauge. But there are some gauges made from hardened spring steel, there you can leave it on while filing. The hsuqvarna gauges for exampel.
They are Tsumura or Sugi Hara made for Husqvarna I had run a Sugi for a while now they are good quality. They are also very hard to get in some chain pitch due to global supply issues, looking forward to hed to head with 500i.
The sugihara bars are lighter but also hardened so they wear slower and more importantly don't bend. If you have a kickback, pinch or a tree setback the bar will crack before it bends. Also I know for a novice to match rakers to teeth this way but I prefer to file rakers then teeth so if I cut a tooth I can fix it with the file after I'm done with the rakers.
Yep. Husky light type bars are rebranded Sugi Hara bars. I’ve got 15” Sugi Hara bar and soft they are not. They’re lighter because the cut-outs are filled with a lightweight resin. But the outer material, including the rails and nose are neither softer steel nor thinner. Two things for sure, the Sugi Hara noses are harder than standard Husky bar noses; and I’ve worn out three standard Husky bars to one Sugi Hara bar.
Hey, good luck with the new saw. I've been running Huskies for nearly 50 years. Still have my original 380CD. Runs great! My motto: "If it ain't orange, it ain't for George." Shalom/gw :-))
Great demonstration and explanation video Chris! Something i havent done is get a light bar yet. I do due the maintenance like you, maybe a bit more than others. Peoplenask me if i ever use the saw because they are clean. Inkeep a dental pick with me and canned air when cleaning around the clutch and sprocket area. The toothbrush is a great idea, so im throwing one of those in the box as well. Only a few times have i taken my rakers down to far. It is a bit agressive, so i just use extra caution whwn cutting. Happy cutting with your new saw and light bar
on my 572xp I ended up taking 8 passes to get the rakers where i wanted them 2passes at a time and trying! a few commercial guys here are saying the x-cuts are hard to sharpen and keep them from cutting to the side! i had the same problem and thought it was me! GNI !!
You should get 24" versacut bars. They are light, durable, and inexpensive. The tips have a sealed bearing so no need for grease. The tip isn't replaceable so you just toss it when it's shot.
B.t.w. After watching all the fun you guys and many others have cutting sawing splitting and " cutting up" in general. I've wanted to purchase a saw and splitter. But after watching these maintenance and up keep vids, I have decided against it. I am the least mechanicly inclined person you know and can see myself balling up the works, so to speak. So your vids are serving a good purpose keep up the good work. ( A man has got to know his limitations)
Tsumura premium light is the best light bar I’ve ever seen. That husky bar is a sugi and it’s a good bar just not as light and more expensive than the tsumura
I didn’t realize till I did the research on the bar for you, but fought out stihls main headquarters is in Germany. Completely blew my mind. But their headquarters in the states, is in Virginia
Lightweight bars are really hard to find now. I'm thinking of ordering my next one now cuz it'll be months before it comes in. You're right on the money with the factory chain rakers. They are quite conservative. Knock em down and let the big dog eat!
I don't grease bar tip, but for that i must keep bar grove always clean. Take down chain some times etc. Doing so it does not affect bar lifespan not at all. Not sure does it work that great with long bars, i have 15 inch bar. Great video!
I think I drop the rakers every 3 or 4 sharpening s on my Stihl. I use the Stihl 2n1 I don't think it drops the rakers fast enough. But it helps with a quick sharpening. After I drop them with a flat file. I will run the traditional jig for a while. Then when the hook starts disappearing. I will free hand it, with a husky file, to put the gullet back in. Those jigs do a ok job, but they shorten up really quick. I think I get maybe 4 completely used up chains on a Stihl bar. Flip the saw upsidedown to tension the chain. It puts the bar in upper most position and holds longer
Video pretty much says it all if you pay attention. I always "test" the rakers on a new chain before I take them down. If she bites and wants to chew they are good, if they want to spit dust instead of bite they need to go down a little, if she bites and wants to choke they are already too low. GNI
@@InTheWoodyard But only thing I have to wait for a few months before I can start cutting again anyway from this knee surgery I had tomorrow will be a week into it but going pretty well so far.
My Walkerized 592 to use it’s power I have taken my rakers down almost .050 more than factory or stock and can definitely go down more cause brother she eats
Good job on the chain Chris. I cut timber for years and do it the same way and always worked for me. And BTW, seems like everyone has a Craftsman vise hehe.
I'm over the ditch in aus and have myself a 592 now. I have run it with a 36in bar in our very hardwoods side by side with the 395xp they are very comparable saws but like you mine is still in the break in period and should pick up some more. I'm yet to take down the rakers on the standard chain but it really needs some more strain on it as even with the stock 24in bar it's basically free reving in the wood. I may yet change over to 404 chain as it holds up better and should make the saw work a little bit. Flick me a private message if you want to see it in hardwood. Happy cutting!
The height of the rakers depends on the type of wood you are going to use it in. Hard wood = taller raker (little less aggressive bite needed) Soft wood = lower raker (more aggressive bite is ok) Its all a balance between power vs bite.
Chris, if you grind( flatten the center belly of a bar it changes the geometry of the tooth coming from the nose to the mid point.this retards the raker exposing the cutter a small bit more to the wood .results in a more aggressive engagement.. just a few strokes with your file. Ever notice how they cut at the bucking spikes . The rakers lift going towards the clutch
I cut for 8-12 hours some days day after day....they get way dirtier than that! Some people like to rub and polish their equipment and some produce with theirs. Like show pony trucks (pavement princes) vs actual working trucks.
@@InTheWoodyard ... Cleaning your saw is called maintenance and saves the saw. Cleaning a saw isn't show pony bull my friend. I bet you have never changed the air filter because you are to busy thinking about making money , ggg
@@InTheWoodyard - I didn't say "direction of the file (pushing vs pulling)", I said the *rakers.* You filed every *other* raker [17:44] (right cutter raker [skip one], right cutter raker [skip one], right cutter raker [skip one], etc) - then you flipped the saw and filed every other raker (left cutter raker [skip one], left cutter raker [skip one], left cutter raker [skip one], etc.). Filling every other *cutter* makes sense because you don't have to keep changing your angle (from +-35 degrees to -35 degrees). But *rakers don't have a direction* - they're all *straight* - nor does the raker metal (it doesn't file any easier from one side or the other. So, I couldn't understand - other than _'some guys are just used to filing every other'._ (???) Was just asking.
You do realize you just increased your work load. You used to get a break after 3 tanks of gas but now youre going to have to do another tank first. Lol.
Time to go back to the old Dremel....LOL. Been using my cordless Dremel to sharpen lately, time to move up to a corded model also. What is that file called, just a "flat file"? The 592 certainly looks like an animal with that new lightweight bar on there! 💪
I live in Nova Scotia 🇨🇦. I own a 550 XPG and a 357XPG. I love my heated handles. And what do you think of the 2n1 sharpener? I dislike! Does not take the rakers( drags) down enough.
A while back I may have pooched a chain. Had a major brain fart and checked raker height using the depth gauge wrong. Oops! At least I have two brand new spare chains for that saw in case it is way too aggressive. If you took the rakers down too far, hit the dirt with it to force a resharp to effectively "raise" the raker height or toss the chain if it is too aggressive, or just cut easy cutting wood like basswood or pine and then resharpen as normal?
The dogs on my 2 Makita saws are really aggressive. Really like the Makita/Dolmar saws. I have some from all of them though I have Stihl, Husqvarna/Redmax, Echo, Makita, John Deere not sure who made it think it might have been Echo or their parent company, and I have an old Homelite. You can get some really good deals on the Makita dcs6421. I think they have a new model number for the saw now but Home Depot rents them and every so often they sell them. Its a 64 or 65cc pro saw. The bottom end is the same as the bigger 77cc saw though from what I have read so you should be able to put a top end for the 77cc saw on there if you wanted or ever needed to rebuild it. I paid $250 for mine though and didn't look to have ever really even been ran hell of a deal for a $700 or $750 saw.
Hi Chris! Another great maintenance video! Appreciate your explanations and techniques. Can you add some clarity to the numbering system that Husqvarna and Stihl use? Seems like lower numbers used for the saw means lower power but then there are situations where that is not so. Also seems like the last two digits of the saw number is the CC number but then that is not consistent either. I have the catalogs so I go back and forth and it seems that the only consistency is a lack of consistency! Thanks!
Thanks for watching. The numbering system is easy for Husqvarna, the first number is the series the next two are the ccs. 572 means 5 series 72 ccs. Stihl......???????
That sure is a beautiful saw and light bar combo. I’ll be very interested to see how it performs for you. I might need to add a Big Husky gal like yours to my Stihl arsenal😉🪵
I know, you’re not looking for suggestions 😂but would a can of brake cleaner possibly be helpful with the cleaning of the saws and not be terribly messy?
When are they going to make metal side plates, so the nuts don't crack them? My friend does small engine repair, he says people tighten them too much and break them ALL the time.
I mean, they use *yellow* as an industry standard color for "caution" and for finding things.... Even use *orange* too. But, hey, if you rather use *PINK* tape so you can find your tool, more power to ya.
Checkers sugihara take the numbers off your light bar cross reference them. You might get your bars cheaper. They just won't have Husqvarna stamps on them
Actually we are both wrong, they are technically depth gauges. But you can call them what you want, we call them rakers here. I have never in my life heard the term drags, that is a new one, I might need to make a video about that! Thanks!!
@@InTheWoodyard Here in the Appalachian mountains, I've never heard of "rakes". I'm 66 years old, we've call em drags since I was born. I just bought this 592 XP, it cuts like a demon. 👍
good video. Pete at Nuts 319 UA-cam has a Huskvarna saw and uses a sughiharra light bar. Says he replaces his sughi bars once in a while. He is a owner of his own logging business.
Rakers are always too tall out of the box in my opinion. Just a couple strokes is usually good for me. Like you say, gotta' feel your way into that sweet spot.
Chris as I see you have been sharpening saw chains for a good while ,do you ever find your degree angle getting off a little on each tooth . Great videos as always keep on cutting
Hey Chris , check out Brad from Firewood in the Furnace for installing a remote for the Dump Trailer , he wired it in on his Dump Trailer for under $30 , comes with two remotes and saves walking back and forth to rear of trailer and allows you see the rear without dragging a cable , P/S enjoy your videos - TNX Jim*
Hey Chris I live in Michigan here and was in Saginaw at a Ace Hardware and they sell a lot of power equiptment and found out they have 7 or 8 Stihl 500is in stock so just wanted to let you know if you wanted one or have a friend wants one just to let you know of the place that has them. The address is Wohlteil Ace Hardware Saginaw Michugan State Rd.
@@InTheWoodyard I know didnt stop in there on purpose but stoppes just to look around and they said the owner is a smart guy and bought them ahead of time seen them all in the boxes. Would buy them but just bought a 390 husqvarna and love it!
@@InTheWoodyard Also just called and checked on them today they already sold three and last time I checked had 5 left so anybody wants one heres the chance called mamy dealers around me and said you cant get them 4 to 6 month waiting list was going to buy one for myself but don't need it.
The Sugihara bars are excellent! It's solid steel, substantial rails machined in. The light bar is just machined into a truss, giving up a lot more weight while maintaining rigidity...more optimized, but costly machine time.
Thanks for the info!
The new tsumura premium light look good. Same weight as a stihl es light
It will be interesting to see if the light bar holds up!! I haven’t heard if the lighter weight bars hold up as long as a regular bar. If anyone is going to find out it will be you with as much cutting as you do!! Thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻GNI
We shall see! Thanks Todd!
I used a stihl light on my 572. I have a sugi also which is the light husky and the stihl is noticeably lighter. Elongate slot. Use cannon adaptor and make holes larger. Little bit of work but I feel the stihl is a superior bar.
Thanks for the info Rob!
Rob the Sugi bars are heavier but last alot longer than the Stihl light Bars which in my opinion are average at best.
You are the Bob Ross of chainsaw cleaning
HAAAAA! Bob Ross was awesome!
Chris...You may want to consider the new West Coast Saw 3/8 (.375) raker gauge. There are several really nice features. First, it seems to made of hardened steel so it doesn't get worn as quickly as the newer Husky, Stihl, and Oregon gauges. Also, it has openings so you can set your rakers at .025, .030, .035, and .040. My chains cut much smoother when I get all of the rakers at the same height; something I was never able to do using the eyeball/count the strokes method.
Thanks for the info!!!
This info is extremely helpful, I just ordered one. Thank you
The birds were a nice touch. They sure made that sharpening go by really fast
Thanks Chris!
Maybe everyone knows this, but until the re-introduction of the husqvarna light bars (very recently) people were using stihl ES light bars on D009 large husqvarna mount saws. It requires an adapter to use the 13mm slot on the 9mm slot on the D009. They're widely available. Also, the slot might have to be ground further to allow more "retraction" to get the chain on if using the recommended amount of drive links from Husqvarna.
Thanks for the info Marcus!
That 592 looks so badazz with that bar . I can’t wait for the comparison video on Kens 395
Soon!
My first Husky X-tough light bar I purchased in a 28" last year cracked right above the bar studs after I cut 12 ash trees with it. I have had several Sugihara bars that developed hairline cracks along the rails (so have other loggers using Sugi bars in my area). Husky did warranty the bar. The bars and tips are a PITA to dress up with a file dresser. As hard as they are they do not last as long as a Tsumura, or Stihl bars. The Stihl ES light bars are the lightest, then the Tsumura. Overall the Tsumura light bars have held up the best for me daily logging. The 24" x-tough light bar on the 592xp I was testing has yet to crack but is wearing faster than the oregon bar I ran on it. The Stihl bars are easily adapted by lengthening the bar slot, drill out the tensioner holes, and install a cannon CBW-20030 adaptor plate. Light bars are the best thing to come along for chainsaws, now they need to make even lighter ones (28") to balance a 462 and 500i properly.
Thanks for the info, I appreciate it a lot!
Even though I don’t own any husky hand held equipment. This video I feel is very educational for those who either have never maintained hand held equipment before, or for those who want to learn; and save a buck or two. Just make sure it doesn’t void an manufacturer warranties
Thanks Bobby!
Morning Chris, real good clear info you gave on the rakers, that’s one beautiful, top quality new bar. Look forward to your Unbiased, fair comparison of the big saws. Take care
Thanks Mike!
I can't wait to see that new chainsaw in the woodyard! Should be some great videos coming up. Especially if you have Tony and Kenny.
Coming soon!
Nice looking bar there Chris. I been running a Sugi bar on my Jonsered for a couple of years with no problems. It was a pound and a half lighter than the stock bar.
Yup, I agree it is nice!
Hey Chris! I put a 24 in Husqvarna light bar on my 562 XP. So far, I've been very satisfied with it and not had any issues. 👍
Love my 562 great saw. I’m still waiting on my 592 it got pushed back to 4/11 now. I hope they don’t change again.
@@heathenfirewoodservice2021 Everything I hear about the 592 is all positive. I wish I could justify that cost, but I have enough saws as it is, lol!
Great!
I ran a 562 and it is a great saw, I would like one!
More is better! HAAAA!
Nice job
I have the 372 XP love the Saw
I had it for about 23 years
yup.the 372 is a great saw!
My husqvarna dealer offered me a 36 inch light bar for my 592XP when I brought it, declined the offer, put a husky tsumura 36 inch light bar full chisel chisel chain,best decision I ever made 😊
Yup, sounds great!
Huskys light bars are made by Sugihara
You’re killing me here Chris!! New chain, bar and saw and not even a teaser cut? It better come tomorrow!!
Yes, when I was a kid we had a draft horse we used for skidding out logs, very cool. I just looked at the email you sent me....nice!!! Thanks!
My echo cs7310p as keeper nuts on the side cover too. I put a little grease on my adjuster threads on the inside. Run it up and down. Seems to work out really smooth.
That's a great idea!
Thanks for the video. I have a 24” X-tough lite on my 562XP, a 28” X-tough lite bar on my 592XP and the 32” X-tough bar (63 gauge) on my 395XP. After all the side by sides, I haven’t found a more balanced combination and effective power to bar length ratio to date. Also, I have a full skip chain on the 395XP.
Very nice! Thanks for the info !!
@@InTheWoodyard you’re very welcome. Thank you again for the video
I like that little pick idea. I personally blow off my stuff. I try to after every time I cut, but sometimes it's every other time. I definitely need to try the Dremel for sharpening.
Great tip! Thanks!
Hi, you are right about your gauge. But there are some gauges made from hardened spring steel, there you can leave it on while filing. The hsuqvarna gauges for exampel.
Thanks for the tip!
I've been using that Pferd CS-X combo tooth and raker file for last two years. Works for me.
That 592XP's a real beaut
I think that the CX-X combo is the same design as the Stihl 2 in one. Yup, nice!
Yeah, I’m thinking Pferd makes them for Stihl.
@@bluefj-wc3vz They do and the pferd are cheaper.
They are Tsumura or Sugi Hara made for Husqvarna I had run a Sugi for a while now they are good quality. They are also very hard to get in some chain pitch due to global supply issues, looking forward to hed to head with 500i.
Thanks for the info Patrick!
glad to see u took(my) advice and got the new trail lol.still enjoying u vids!keep on cutting splitting and the good customer service.gni
Thanks for watching Dan.
The sugihara bars are lighter but also hardened so they wear slower and more importantly don't bend. If you have a kickback, pinch or a tree setback the bar will crack before it bends. Also I know for a novice to match rakers to teeth this way but I prefer to file rakers then teeth so if I cut a tooth I can fix it with the file after I'm done with the rakers.
Thanks for the info Jessie!
Yep. Husky light type bars are rebranded Sugi Hara bars. I’ve got 15” Sugi Hara bar and soft they are not. They’re lighter because the cut-outs are filled with a lightweight resin. But the outer material, including the rails and nose are neither softer steel nor thinner. Two things for sure, the Sugi Hara noses are harder than standard Husky bar noses; and I’ve worn out three standard Husky bars to one Sugi Hara bar.
thanks for the info!!!
Hey, good luck with the new saw. I've been running Huskies for nearly 50 years. Still have my original 380CD. Runs great! My motto: "If it ain't orange, it ain't for George." Shalom/gw :-))
Thanks for the info! I like the orange too!
Great video on changing to a lifht bar on the new saw and maintenance on the other saw. Thanks. Have a Safe Day
Thanks, you too!
Great demonstration and explanation video Chris! Something i havent done is get a light bar yet. I do due the maintenance like you, maybe a bit more than others. Peoplenask me if i ever use the saw because they are clean. Inkeep a dental pick with me and canned air when cleaning around the clutch and sprocket area. The toothbrush is a great idea, so im throwing one of those in the box as well. Only a few times have i taken my rakers down to far. It is a bit agressive, so i just use extra caution whwn cutting. Happy cutting with your new saw and light bar
Thanks Craig, keep cutting!
on my 572xp I ended up taking 8 passes to get the rakers where i wanted them 2passes at a time and trying! a few commercial guys here are saying the x-cuts are hard to sharpen and keep them from cutting to the side! i had the same problem and thought it was me! GNI !!
I did not care for the first on I used either, the Oregon or standard Husqvarna chains , to me, cut better.
@@InTheWoodyard same here!
Quite the arsenal!
Yup, thanks Jeff.
You should get 24" versacut bars. They are light, durable, and inexpensive. The tips have a sealed bearing so no need for grease. The tip isn't replaceable so you just toss it when it's shot.
Thanks Rick, I will check them out!
Scary sharp is how I like my stuff, my 395xp all but throws me over the log it pulls so hard, good workout when running it all day hahaha
Yup, me too!
Love my 562 xp-g. Vermont gets cold.
The g just stands for grip according to Husqvarna.
G is for HEATED grip, it is nice!
B.t.w.
After watching all the fun you guys and many others have cutting sawing splitting and " cutting up" in general.
I've wanted to purchase a saw and splitter.
But after watching these maintenance and up keep vids,
I have decided against it.
I am the least mechanicly inclined person you know and can see myself balling up the works, so to speak.
So your vids are serving a good purpose keep up the good work.
( A man has got to know his limitations)
That is awesome! So people don't admit the truth! I have limitations too...I don't dance or sing!
Liquid dishwashing detergent really cleans the clutch covers nicely. Just let it soak, rinse/hose off, then blow dry if have a compressor.
Thanks!
The C83 xcut chains Rackers definitely have to come down out of the box.
Yes! I agree!
G’morning Chris. Looks like a sweet bar. Hope it holds up against the Woodyard Paces ! Thanks for the info !! GoodNightIrene
Good morning! Thanks again Corey!
Love the new saw, light bar should make a big difference
Good morning Chris that new bar looks really nice hopefully it lasts
Yup, i like it a lot too, I hope it lasts longer than me! HAAAAA!
Tsumura premium light is the best light bar I’ve ever seen. That husky bar is a sugi and it’s a good bar just not as light and more expensive than the tsumura
Okay.
I didn’t realize till I did the research on the bar for you, but fought out stihls main headquarters is in Germany. Completely blew my mind. But their headquarters in the states, is in Virginia
interesting!
Lightweight bars are really hard to find now. I'm thinking of ordering my next one now cuz it'll be months before it comes in.
You're right on the money with the factory chain rakers. They are quite conservative. Knock em down and let the big dog eat!
Yessss!
I don't grease bar tip, but for that i must keep bar grove always clean. Take down chain some times etc. Doing so it does not affect bar lifespan not at all. Not sure does it work that great with long bars, i have 15 inch bar. Great video!
Good to know!
I think I drop the rakers every 3 or 4 sharpening s on my Stihl. I use the Stihl 2n1 I don't think it drops the rakers fast enough. But it helps with a quick sharpening.
After I drop them with a flat file. I will run the traditional jig for a while. Then when the hook starts disappearing. I will free hand it, with a husky file, to put the gullet back in. Those jigs do a ok job, but they shorten up really quick.
I think I get maybe 4 completely used up chains on a Stihl bar.
Flip the saw upsidedown to tension the chain. It puts the bar in upper most position and holds longer
Thanks for the info Mr. Sock!
I put West Coast Saw gelling dawgs on my 390xp and love them! I think I’m going to run a stihl light bar on my 390xp
That sounds great!
That’s correct on the tip. That’s just a SugiHara bar and their tips are interchangeable
Thanks for the info!
changing the depth of your Rakers also has a lot to do with what species of wood your cutting also
You are correct Ryan!
BINGO!
I use a hand held wisk broom to brush off sawdust and debris when cleaning the saw. Maybe faster than a toothbrush.
Yup, that would work too!
Video pretty much says it all if you pay attention. I always "test" the rakers on a new chain before I take them down. If she bites and wants to chew they are good, if they want to spit dust instead of bite they need to go down a little, if she bites and wants to choke they are already too low. GNI
Yup, thanks Larry!
Good advice again, I do what you do just clean out the most important stuff and get back cutting.
Exactly!
@@InTheWoodyard But only thing I have to wait for a few months before I can start cutting again anyway from this knee surgery I had tomorrow will be a week into it but going pretty well so far.
My Walkerized 592 to use it’s power I have taken my rakers down almost .050 more than factory or stock and can definitely go down more cause brother she eats
Yup, the 592 is great even before that so I bet it is hangry!
Ive got a Oregon PowerCut 42 inch bar also for my 592, cuts well
Nice!
Good job on the chain Chris. I cut timber for years and do it the same way and always worked for me. And BTW, seems like everyone has a Craftsman vise hehe.
Thanks 👍
I'm over the ditch in aus and have myself a 592 now. I have run it with a 36in bar in our very hardwoods side by side with the 395xp they are very comparable saws but like you mine is still in the break in period and should pick up some more.
I'm yet to take down the rakers on the standard chain but it really needs some more strain on it as even with the stock 24in bar it's basically free reving in the wood. I may yet change over to 404 chain as it holds up better and should make the saw work a little bit.
Flick me a private message if you want to see it in hardwood. Happy cutting!
I agree, the chains need to be a little more aggressive than the new condition. Keep cutting!
Once the old girls lose a little weight. And you get their teeth fixed. They're absolutely wonderful to be around. You can work with them
Lol. I get it.
Yup, that is true!
I‘m using the Oregon Powercut EXL Cain for the 592xp and husqvarna x-tough
Yup, me too, the Oregon chains are great for the price I get them for!
The height of the rakers depends on the type of wood you are going to use it in.
Hard wood = taller raker (little less aggressive bite needed)
Soft wood = lower raker (more aggressive bite is ok)
Its all a balance between power vs bite.
Yup, I go with feel and testing over the years and not a measurement. I can tell when they need to come down.
I like my rakers low.. I go 3 strokes of the file. Since I am in softwood 99% of the time I think I am ok.
Yup, with soft wood you can get away with more sins! Ha!
Chris, if you grind( flatten the center belly of a bar it changes the geometry of the tooth coming from the nose to the mid point.this retards the raker exposing the cutter a small bit more to the wood .results in a more aggressive engagement.. just a few strokes with your file. Ever notice how they cut at the bucking spikes . The rakers lift going towards the clutch
Thanks for the tips Watcher!
"G" is heated carb and handlebars. Most everyone remembers the handlebar, but forgets the carb.
Yup.
I really hate the sound it makes when I file the rakers. I gotta get me one of those tip greasers.
You might be filing the wrong side ....always file the far side. Or maybe the sound is just kinda annoying.
Wow ! I never let my saw get that dirty. I clean and blow my saw after each uses. I bet you never greased the clutch bearing ?
I cut for 8-12 hours some days day after day....they get way dirtier than that! Some people like to rub and polish their equipment and some produce with theirs. Like show pony trucks (pavement princes) vs actual working trucks.
@@InTheWoodyard ... Cleaning your saw is called maintenance and saves the saw. Cleaning a saw isn't show pony bull my friend. I bet you have never changed the air filter because you are to busy thinking about making money , ggg
I tried the nickel underneath the chain in the middle of the bar. That seems to work pretty good on my long bars.
Very nice!
Chris I like how left out New York and New England in your list of locations cole enough for heated hand grips
Ah flatlanders….😂🥶
HAAAAA!
Chain rakers are *non-directional* - so why would it matter if you do _"one side"_ where you do every other raker, and then do the _"other side"?_
Because pushing the file it bounces and chatters if you go the wrong direction. You must have never taken them down before or you would know???
@@InTheWoodyard - I didn't say "direction of the file (pushing vs pulling)", I said the *rakers.* You filed every *other* raker [17:44] (right cutter raker [skip one], right cutter raker [skip one], right cutter raker [skip one], etc) - then you flipped the saw and filed every other raker (left cutter raker [skip one], left cutter raker [skip one], left cutter raker [skip one], etc.). Filling every other *cutter* makes sense because you don't have to keep changing your angle (from +-35 degrees to -35 degrees). But *rakers don't have a direction* - they're all *straight* - nor does the raker metal (it doesn't file any easier from one side or the other. So, I couldn't understand - other than _'some guys are just used to filing every other'._ (???) Was just asking.
they sell adapters to adapt a stihl bar to a huslky
Yes, I just found that out! Thanks!
You do realize you just increased your work load. You used to get a break after 3 tanks of gas but now youre going to have to do another tank first. Lol.
Great point!
I have a bar groove cleaner that I use every time I change the chain. I get them from forester shop. I think $ 1.20 each.
Nice!
Time to go back to the old Dremel....LOL. Been using my cordless Dremel to sharpen lately, time to move up to a corded model also. What is that file called, just a "flat file"? The 592 certainly looks like an animal with that new lightweight bar on there! 💪
It is a Husqvarna chain saw file, no cutters on the edges (sides).
I live in Nova Scotia 🇨🇦. I own a 550 XPG and a 357XPG. I love my heated handles. And what do you think of the 2n1 sharpener? I dislike! Does not take the rakers( drags) down enough.
Yup hot hands are nice in the winter! I do not use the 2 in one, it is hand file or Dremel and Oregon stone for me!
A while back I may have pooched a chain. Had a major brain fart and checked raker height using the depth gauge wrong. Oops! At least I have two brand new spare chains for that saw in case it is way too aggressive. If you took the rakers down too far, hit the dirt with it to force a resharp to effectively "raise" the raker height or toss the chain if it is too aggressive, or just cut easy cutting wood like basswood or pine and then resharpen as normal?
Yup, good point!
The dogs on my 2 Makita saws are really aggressive. Really like the Makita/Dolmar saws. I have some from all of them though I have Stihl, Husqvarna/Redmax, Echo, Makita, John Deere not sure who made it think it might have been Echo or their parent company, and I have an old Homelite. You can get some really good deals on the Makita dcs6421. I think they have a new model number for the saw now but Home Depot rents them and every so often they sell them. Its a 64 or 65cc pro saw. The bottom end is the same as the bigger 77cc saw though from what I have read so you should be able to put a top end for the 77cc saw on there if you wanted or ever needed to rebuild it. I paid $250 for mine though and didn't look to have ever really even been ran hell of a deal for a $700 or $750 saw.
Nice, thanks Jesse!
Hi Chris! Another great maintenance video! Appreciate your explanations and techniques. Can you add some clarity to the numbering system that Husqvarna and Stihl use? Seems like lower numbers used for the saw means lower power but then there are situations where that is not so. Also seems like the last two digits of the saw number is the CC number but then that is not consistent either. I have the catalogs so I go back and forth and it seems that the only consistency is a lack of consistency! Thanks!
Thanks for watching. The numbering system is easy for Husqvarna, the first number is the series the next two are the ccs. 572 means 5 series 72 ccs. Stihl......???????
Canada! They invented cold! Nice looking saw, she'll rip!
Yup, it sure is!
That sure is a beautiful saw and light bar combo. I’ll be very interested to see how it performs for you. I might need to add a Big Husky gal like yours to my Stihl arsenal😉🪵
Yup, it cuts awesome!
I know, you’re not looking for suggestions 😂but would a can of brake cleaner possibly be helpful with the cleaning of the saws and not be terribly messy?
Yup, that probably would work!
When are they going to make metal side plates, so the nuts don't crack them? My friend does small engine repair, he says people tighten them too much and break them ALL the time.
Interesting, thanks for the info!
Good video bro I just got the 585 and put a x tough light bar on her
Nice, I would like to try one of them out!
Put the oil screw for the first time to maximum 👍🏻
Thanks for the tip!
I mean, they use *yellow* as an industry standard color for "caution" and for finding things.... Even use *orange* too. But, hey, if you rather use *PINK* tape so you can find your tool, more power to ya.
Yup, pink is much easier to see.... everywhere.
Checkers sugihara take the numbers off your light bar cross reference them. You might get your bars cheaper. They just won't have Husqvarna stamps on them
Probably so!
Those aren't "rakers" they're called "drags," because they keep the cutting teeth form "dragging" too deep in wood.
Actually we are both wrong, they are technically depth gauges. But you can call them what you want, we call them rakers here. I have never in my life heard the term drags, that is a new one, I might need to make a video about that! Thanks!!
@@InTheWoodyard Here in the Appalachian mountains, I've never heard of "rakes". I'm 66 years old, we've call em drags since I was born. I just bought this 592 XP, it cuts like a demon. 👍
Why not replace the tip on the old bar?
I have done that in the past ....a new bar is faster better and does not cost that much.
Great job Chris Thanks for sharing 👍
You bet! Thanks Frank!
good video. Pete at Nuts 319 UA-cam has a Huskvarna saw and uses a sughiharra light bar. Says he replaces his sughi bars once in a while. He is a owner of his own logging business.
Thanks Dan!
They don't seem to make the Sugi in an .058. Don't know why.
I did not know that!
They are a Japanese owned and operated family company in Japan, from what I’ve researched.
Yup, makes sense to me!
Light bar should make a difference
Yes it does!
God bless
Thanks John!
Rakers are always too tall out of the box in my opinion. Just a couple strokes is usually good for me. Like you say, gotta' feel your way into that sweet spot.
Yup, I agree!
It shouldn't be too difficult to run a couple of wires to the throttle to get some of that heat.
They make actual heated handle bars.
@@InTheWoodyard yes I know I meant that as an addition. Snowmobiles have had both for years. Running right off your electrical system.
Chris as I see you have been sharpening saw chains for a good while ,do you ever find your degree angle getting off a little on each tooth . Great videos as always keep on cutting
Sometimes but sharp is all that matters, a few degrees on way or the other is not super important, it will still cut good.
@@InTheWoodyard that’s true ,it does make a tooth disappear a little faster though when sharpening when the angle keeps changing .
Hey Chris , check out Brad from Firewood in the Furnace for installing a remote for the Dump Trailer , he wired it in on his Dump Trailer for under $30 , comes with two remotes and saves walking back and forth to rear of trailer and allows you see the rear without dragging a cable , P/S enjoy your videos - TNX Jim*
Yup, I saw that too! Cool!
Hey Chris I live in Michigan here and was in Saginaw at a Ace Hardware and they sell a lot of power equiptment and found out they have 7 or 8 Stihl 500is in stock so just wanted to let you know if you wanted one or have a friend wants one just to let you know of the place that has them. The address is Wohlteil Ace Hardware Saginaw Michugan State Rd.
Thanks Bobby, you just let about 20,000 people know!
@@InTheWoodyard I know didnt stop in there on purpose but stoppes just to look around and they said the owner is a smart guy and bought them ahead of time seen them all in the boxes. Would buy them but just bought a 390 husqvarna and love it!
@@InTheWoodyard Also just called and checked on them today they already sold three and last time I checked had 5 left so anybody wants one heres the chance called mamy dealers around me and said you cant get them 4 to 6 month waiting list was going to buy one for myself but don't need it.
Nice saw, bar should work great for you. How do you like your saw so far? I have a 562xp and a 572xp. I might go for the trifecta and get a 592xp.
Nice idea, I ran a 562 and I liked it a lot, the 592 is a beast!
Did you weigh both bars to find out the difference?
A pound ?
7 ounces ?
What are we looking at here?
No I did not but it is a very noticeable difference, especially on the saw, I would say a pound or more.
Chris, I had the same problem with the EZZ-DOO and I returned it for a refund.
That is not good!
Same length bar ??? I got 28 inch on mine .
No, I run all 24" bars.
Or CANADA FROM ( October to May 24 ( You are Canadian you know exactly what I mean what’s the weather
Yup, lots of winter!
What size husky do they switch over to the inboard clutch? Does the 592 still have the grease hole in the shaft for the needle bearing?
I am not sure on the saws clutches, mine all are but they are pro saws. On the 592 I do not know, I am not with the saw now to look.