Not only is this an excellent idea but the video is perfect. It gets straight to the point. No need to spend 20-30 minutes of machining to show us how to make it. Anyone capable of making this will immediately know how to make it. The dimensioned drawing is a nice bonus, though! Thank you!
@@vanmiller3462Hey Van, taking a look at your vid 'cause I need a spindle stop on my Jet-16. What material did you use for the 'brake shoe'? Also, by chance, have done or seen anything on a X or Y axis table lock. My Jet is an early model; the Ron Fu's have 2 table locks on the R side under the X table. The Jet only has a single gib adjustment screw; not too excited about using that as a table lock. The Y is where I really need it, I keep hitting the wheel w/ my hip. I haven't been able to find anything on YT, or the 'net. Could be the search terms, but what would it be called other than a 'table lock'? Thanks. GeoD
Did you add a spindle stop to your round column? If so, what material did you use for the stop shoe? His drawing says ½" belting, which by itself doesn't mean squat to me, then he blows by that part in the vid. What else is missing is a demonstration; does the operator have to keep continuous pressure on it while also trying to loosen the draw bar? Seems awkward to do it that way; it's not really a lock, if so. It's more a brake. I want a spindle lock that I can set, let go of & have the spindle locked. Point being, if I have to redesign/modify his design, I want to know & do it before I copy his plan. Got any words of clarification, from experience, for me? Thanks, in advance. GeoD
Thanks for the comment JT. It looks the same as my Mill drill. The spindle pulley is held on by a large nut pushing the pulley down onto a tapered shaft. On my video I loosen the nut till it is flush top of the shaft then prying up on the bottom of the pulley and hit the nut with a large hammer. If this doesn’t work then you may need to drill and tap 3 holes in the top of the pulley and use a steering wheel type puller. Cheers van
@@vanmiller3462 I wasn't having luck with prybars and hammering. I ended up using a 3 jaw gear puller on mine. I didn't want to get crazy with the torque and break it. So I put a little better than hand tight pressure on the gear puller and heated the step pulley near the shaft with a torch while spinning it to keep the heat even. It popped off with a pretty decent amount of force. Thanks for the video. Hard to find stuff on these. So many clones of the same machines. Be interested in any manuals you might know for online.
Thanks for the question, I used Two part epoxy. Don’t make the same mistake I did and put it in upside down. Test the polarity by passing the magnet past the pickup coil and mark the side that works.
So many videos are about the guy making the video, not the subject of the video. I'm impressed and subscribed.
Not only is this an excellent idea but the video is perfect. It gets straight to the point. No need to spend 20-30 minutes of machining to show us how to make it. Anyone capable of making this will immediately know how to make it. The dimensioned drawing is a nice bonus, though! Thank you!
Thanks for the great comment.
@@vanmiller3462Hey Van, taking a look at your vid 'cause I need a spindle stop on my Jet-16.
What material did you use for the 'brake shoe'?
Also, by chance, have done or seen anything on a X or Y axis table lock.
My Jet is an early model; the Ron Fu's have 2 table locks on the R side under the X table. The Jet only has a single gib adjustment screw; not too excited about using that as a table lock.
The Y is where I really need it, I keep hitting the wheel w/ my hip.
I haven't been able to find anything on YT, or the 'net. Could be the search terms, but what would it be called other than a 'table lock'?
Thanks.
GeoD
Just found your channel and subscribed. Very nice work
Great video! I think the drawings made it all come together.
Whow What an elegant solution . I'm going to do this on my mill as well
Thanks for the idea
Did you add a spindle stop to your round column?
If so, what material did you use for the stop shoe? His drawing says ½" belting, which by itself doesn't mean squat to me, then he blows by that part in the vid.
What else is missing is a demonstration; does the operator have to keep continuous pressure on it while also trying to loosen the draw bar?
Seems awkward to do it that way; it's not really a lock, if so. It's more a brake.
I want a spindle lock that I can set, let go of & have the spindle locked.
Point being, if I have to redesign/modify his design, I want to know & do it before I copy his plan.
Got any words of clarification, from experience, for me?
Thanks, in advance.
GeoD
Just ran across your video, Thanks, I may have to add that to mine.
Thanks for the thumbs up. I enjoyed your video
Thanks for the video. I was looking to see how exactly the spindle pulley comes off on my RF-25 (Rong Fu 25).
Thanks for the comment JT. It looks the same as my Mill drill. The spindle pulley is held on by a large nut pushing the pulley down onto a tapered shaft. On my video I loosen the nut till it is flush top of the shaft then prying up on the bottom of the pulley and hit the nut with a large hammer. If this doesn’t work then you may need to drill and tap 3 holes in the top of the pulley and use a steering wheel type puller. Cheers van
@@vanmiller3462 I wasn't having luck with prybars and hammering. I ended up using a 3 jaw gear puller on mine. I didn't want to get crazy with the torque and break it. So I put a little better than hand tight pressure on the gear puller and heated the step pulley near the shaft with a torch while spinning it to keep the heat even. It popped off with a pretty decent amount of force. Thanks for the video. Hard to find stuff on these. So many clones of the same machines. Be interested in any manuals you might know for online.
Great job and very interesting! Thanks for sharing!!
Great work thank you for sharing it helps alot
What secures the magnet to the aluminum pulley?
Thanks for the question, I used Two part epoxy. Don’t make the same mistake I did and put it in upside down. Test the polarity by passing the magnet past the pickup coil and mark the side that works.
Great job!
Had a fitting issue, is the main round column on your mill 4 5/8 Dia.? just curious, thanx
3.5 in column on my mill
So simple thanks video have a capital machinery mill but pretty much same I'll add this
very cool!
That's clever
...but.... you didn't show it being used, even....once?
Did you not see me using the brake to tighten the spindle nut when I was reassembling the mill?