Modification to the Round Column Mill
Вставка
- Опубліковано 26 чер 2021
- Gday and welcome to part 2 of this modification to my round column mill, I have learnt a lot throughout this project and in theory it should have worked out but sadly its not as good as id like, I will in the future be revisiting this and trying to get it to be mire accurate, the way it is now it keeps the location of the head in the ball park, I really hope you enjoy the build and please feel free to leave a thumbs up and a comment, Cheers
- Навчання та стиль
That saved me from attempting the same type of design without considering what happened in your experience. So, thank you for the thought provoking outcome.
Gday Don, I’m almost finished the version 2 but I have filmed the build but if it works I’ll put up a short video showing and explaining it, stay tuned mate, Cheers
Also I saw that oiler you made for Kurtis; it's a beauty!
Thanks, hopefully it last for a long time, Cheers
i was thinking of doing this same set up...but having one on each side...great video ...thank you
Gday, so far I’ve found one this setup to be quite good, it would be interesting to see if one on both sides would be, thanks for watching, cheers
Now i know who to call when i need welding done.. nice job!!
Gday Dave, if only you lived a little closer mate, Cheers
@@MattysWorkshop Just finished crating up my D8 Cat will be on the way tomorrow via UPS to weld up a crack in the front scoop...
@@TheMiniMachineShop no problem, just send it
When I got my RF30 clone the research began, and the final decision was pinning the rack for me. As it turned out, it is not perfect, but with care I can get within 0.05mm which I can live with. I feel certain that it could have ended up quite a bit better if I had found a way to accurately "dress" one side of the rack prior to pinning it. All that was involved besides pinning the rack is fitting a small unobtrusive clamping mechanism under the head to remove backlash between the rack and the rack slots in the head casting, prior to re-clamping the head. The one thing I will emphasise in case anyone wanted to got down this path is that the end result will be totally dependant upon how accurately parallel the rack is pinned to the column.
Your external bracing system is far neater and at least as accurate as any I have seen, and I hope you get it to where you are happy with it. Cheers 🙂
I once owned a round column mill, my decision was to get rid of it. But the effort you put in here was very good work.
Gday, This mill will hopefully be on the market soon, the modification was a big improvement but still not real happy with the machine, Thanks for watching band commenting, Cheers
g"'day matt, that is not a failure, it is a bloke having a good crack at something people like me cannot yet achieve.don''t be so hard on yourself.cheers
Gday Graedon, it’s a bummer it didn’t turn out like I wanted but I did learn a lot, that’s a big plus, thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Thanks for some shaper action. I think you and I will be worn out before the shaper is LOL! Nice gift from Aaron. That clamping kit is super handy.
Gday Tom, thought you might like the shaper action, there a bloody awesome machine and still the favourite in my shop, the gifts from Aaron was bloody fantastic, he really is a great bloke and a wealth of knowledge, appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
Nothing ventured, nothing learned. I think you gave it a darned good crack, Matty.
Good to see the shaper - if time is not an issue, they are versatile and much cheaper on tooling than a mill.
Gday Russell, the shaper is an awesome machine to have, I really enjoy using it and way way cheaper then a mill, cheers
I know you like using the shaper Matty, but strewth, that was a lot of machining! I think I would have attacked it with park 9" grinder to hack the majority off and had a usable lump of steel left over instead of two bin fulls of swarf!
You never know till you try. Good job. Great channel, I like that it is real.
Gday, thanks very much for taking the time to watch the videos, what you see is what you get here, I don’t change for the camera mate, Cheers
Matty, great minds think alike. This is the first I am seeing this video but I arrived at essentially the same arrangement for my round column mill. I believe that this is the cleanest design off all the others I've seen posted out there.
Gday, it’s a simple design but it works ok, thanks for watching, cheers
Hello Matty,
I was watching this series with interest as my new Dore Westbury (DW) Mill has a round column, Ade Swash sent me some photos of how he approached it on his DW... they did look similar to your design, I will have to go and look at the photos again. Nice to see the shaper.
Take care.
Paul,,
Gday Paul, I guess there’s many ways to overcome the round column issues, hopefully I can work out a better way soon, I thought you might like the shaper footage, thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Hey Matty, I wouldn’t put it down as a failure. Have you permanently mounted the Rack/Pinion ( whatever you call it) to the Column yet. Maybe once that’s done you could make a permanent Shim to help ride along the Rack and get the rest out. Either way, it’s a whole lot better than it was. So I wouldn’t put it down as a failure. The job you did was great. 👍
Thanks Matty woho shaper action. Mill drill manufacturer should have this as a option. Great work. Thank you for sharing this.
Gday Norris, lots are liking the shaper action, it is a shame there isn’t something there from the factory, thanks for watching, Cheers
Five thou isn't too bad Matty, if you treat it as if you were compensating for back lash in your table screws you just make sure you always push the head to the same side then as long as you don't heave on the head as you tighten up you should in theory be within one to two thou hopefully.
Wonderful Matty and great stuff Aaron
I've been looking forward to seeing this update as you know, dont be hard on yourself you did a bloody great job mate 👍
I'm just glad I've got no quill on my Harrison, otherwise I'd be adding another bloody project to the list ffs lol
Gday Ralfy, the gifts from Aaron was bloody awesome, he’s a good bloke, I’m sure your list of projects is a mile long like everyone’s, the lots of the hobby mate, cheers
Matty, Thank you so much for the sticker and the post card of Eden. I asked my better half if she believed in Eden and she said it was a place spoke about in the Bible so I told her it was a real place in NSW and showed her the post card and her reaction was like a Kodak moment. She wants to visit Eden some day.
Gday, no worries at all, it really is a pretty place here, let me know if your ever in the area, Cheers
That turned out well. I have Bruce Whithem's TrueLine 8 unit. Very similar in concept.
Gday Steve, I’d really like a Bruce setup but sadly funds are a little short for things like this hence why I had a go myself, all the material I had laying around, thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Great video and huge respect for your honesty. I thought of having a vertical rod and a an arm off the side and you measure the distance each time with calipers and tap the head in with a rubber hammer till you get it dialed, measure the distance before you loosen the head then tap it back in once you've set the height. Just an idea. Also @thelazymachinest he uses a laser pointer on the dead accross to the far wall of the shed.
Keep up the videos legend.
Gday Byron, I’ve heard of a few people using laser pointers, I should give that a go, thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Good job man. Sometimes you win some and sometimes you lose some but at least you learned from this and you have the courage to show that. I have seen many of the round rod mods for this type mill. If I were to do it I would try to use a square way system with a gib. Anyways take care.
Well, with a .005 variance it's still better than eyeballing it. Was cool to see it come together even if it didn't meet your expectations. And Aaron really seems to be a decent fellow, I really wish I can come see Australia someday and say hi to you all in person.
Gday, you know if you ever come over my door is always open here mate, I really hope you get to travel one day, thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Thanks Matty , the destination might not have been everything we dreamed but the journey was great!
Gday Overall so far it’s been a fun project, hopefully I can get to be right soon, Cheers
Thank you for sharing
Thanks mate, cheers
Looks very good and it’s a shame you’re not happy with it I would keep on stabbing at it
I think you are on the right track here, Matty.
Just an educated idea for ya, try using a rectangular bar instead of a round bar. The bar should be somewhere around 75x20mm (or more, preferably close to the diameter of the column) with the widest side tangent to the round column.
The bar stock should be hardened and tempered high carbon steel for rigidity. You should be able to purchase pre-hardened and ground bar stock if you don't want to harden it, temper it and grind it yourself.
The bottom guide block would need to have a bearing surface like aluminum bronze or gray iron for example.
I said "Educated idea" because I did something very similar to this a few years ago on a very large industrial mixer (7 ft tall) to prevent the mixing head from rotating on a round column (hydraulic cylinder), it had a round guide bar from the factory but it was flexing too much, the mixing blade was scraping the inside of the drums so I used a large hardened and tempered flat bar and it worked very well in my opinion.
The setup was very much like what you have already done on your mill.
Anyway, just thought I would share an experience I had with a similar situation.
Best of Luck!
Joe
Gday Joe, thanks for sharing your experience, I’ve almost finished version 2 where I’ve used square stock and it looking really good so far, I haven’t filmed this one but if it works like I think it will I’ll put up a short video showing and explaining how I made it, fingers crossed 🤞 mate, Cheers
Yup, I reckon so, more rigid and possibly no welding involved.
Looks great matty, you'll work it out and be on the next project before you know it. Great video.
Gday, it was worth a try and hopefully I’ll work out another solution soon, thanks for watching, Cheers
That's a nice endmill in the mailbag..😮
Have you ever had the idea of doing something like this for the spindle end instead. Like a 10" tool steel rod to go into your spindle say 1/2" diameter then say a 6" high cylinder say something like 2" thick that can clamp anywhere on the table that has a 1/2" bore hole also. Then when you need to higher or lower the column anytime you can use it all to ensure spindle alignment. Just an idea mate.
Came here from CEE channel and subscribed. Really like that new lathe. I have a 35 year aerospace machining background and the only suggestion I would give is you need a much larger diameter shaft for stability. For your length of travel I would use a 1.500 dia. shaft. Your design is good just need to beef it up some.
Gday Johnny, thanks for checking out my channel and subscribing, I’m thinking of using 1” square stock next, I found a piece when I was having a clean up, forgot I had it, thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Great video mate, even though it wasn't as tip top as you might have liked it was a great thing to see the process and the results. A lot of the stuff we try and achieve does go through prototyping periods and that is all part of getting to a decent end product. I am another bloke here in Aus (Tasmania) with the same lathe as you and an almost identical mill. I have the dovetail type. Looking at yours though i was thinking that it has some definite benefits to it - in that you can swing the head around to get to even more locations on the table than i could.
A little while ago i did some reading about tubes vs solid bar, and what they were saying is that you can have a tube that is only slightly larger in OD than a solid rod, and weighs less that the solid rod, and it will be stiffer and stronger than the slightly smaller solid rod (even though the tube ends up weighing less and has less material in it than the solid bar). They went on to talk about the same concept occurring in composite planes, where you can have a truly lightweight foam core covered in tough and strong fibreglass or carbon fiber and you get immense strength and stiffness in relation to the weight of the panel.
Long story short, most of the strength of a piece of bar, or any piece of metal, comes mainly from the outer shell of the material - so they reckon anyway.
So in terms of a version 2.0, if you were able to go slightly larger in the OD of the brace bar, but move to a piece of tube rather than solid, it might give you more resistance to twisting while not coming with the corresponding cost for sourcing the material, and not weighing way too much.
I would be very interested in seeing version 2.0 if you do go ahead with it.
Gday, that’s very interesting and I should have a look on the internet and have a read about this, I have almost got version 2 completed, this time I used square stock and a better mounting on the mill head, I didn’t film the build but if it works I’ll put up a short video of it, Cheers
Matty,
I take it you have seen the kit Bruce Whitham developed and sells for these round column mills?
The essential difference is he uses a rectangular section (6160?) Al bar for stiffening.
To keep the costs low as I think you are trying to do, I'd try making the bottom bush longer and maybe weld a section of star dropper from there to the top bush.
Cheers Eric
Gday Eric, I have seen Bruce’s design and it looks good, I’ve almost finished version 2 and I hope it works, Cheers
Hey Matty, enjoy all the videos. It's been a while, but when I was at TAFE a long time ago, and using the old shaper as an apprentice, I remember we added 3/4" to the length of the job and that was the required stroke for the shaper. 1/4" past the job, 1/2" behind the job for the clapper to drop back into position. On short jobs not so bad, but that was a lot of material to remove, a little shorter stroke adds up. Hope you find this useful, and thanks for the content.
Gday Richard, the shaper is my most favourite machine in the shop, I always enjoy using it, thanks for the tip mate, Cheers
Hi Matty .. nice job on the stabiliser , the suggestion I would make if Its ok, is to replace the lower steel bush with a Delrin, or similar block which is bolted on your lower plate to have a very snug tolerance, with a slot & bolt for a tightening of the sliding adjustment, which should remove to close to no movement. & possibly a couple more bolts on the top bracket.
Gday Ted, I think a plastic sleeve would be the go for sure, thanks for the advice mate, Cheers
How about rectangular blocks, shims and dovetail slots with gibs, all made on the mill? Bolt holes aside of course! And, make it big!
Well ya tried ! Maybe in the future you can find a fix for it .. ENJOYED
Gday, hopefully I’ll come up with a better solution soon, Cheers
Thanks for sharing!! Maybe a base clamp on the extension bush or a wider rod base plate a the head?
G'day Matty and thanks for the mention mate. Glad you can put the clamp set to good use. It was too big for anything I own down here. Oh, make sure you wash you hands after touching the packaging, and don't scratch your balls as you might catch "RONA" 🤣.
By the way, I loved the shaper action, she's a little ripper isn't she. Nice work on stiffening up the round column mill too. I think you did a marvellous job. Congratulations also on the surge of subscribers taking you past 3K. Very well deserved buddy and you earned everyone of them mate. Cheers, Aaron.
Gday Aaron, I really appreciate the gifts you sent, certainly coming in very handy here, the shaper is the most favourite machine I have here, apart from being fun to operate it’s a mile cheaper to run compared to a mill and as for the subscriber count I’m absolutely blown away, I never thought my channel would ever grow the way it has, I really appreciate your support to and the you have given along the way, cheers
@@MattysWorkshop you’re very welcome Matty. It’s my pleasure mate 👍🍻
You gave it a try and although not quite as rigid as you hoped, it will possibly settle in the middle of travel when allowed to.
A different steel will make not a material difference as all steels have a very similar stiffness. If you want stiffer you will have to go bigger.
Back in the fifties, I think, there was a design of lathe/mill that had a round column and to keep alignment the designer patented a triangular key arrangement. If or when I can remember the name I'll let you know as it might give food for further thought. Just remembered, David Urwick and his Metalmaster lathe mill.
Gday, I think I’d have to go quite a bit bigger if I satay with round shaft, I might try square one day, thanks for the info on the triangle key, sounds very interesting, thanks for watching, Cheers
man you are very good
Thanks for the kind words, Cheers
Maybe not the level of perfection you desired, but definitely not a failure Matty. You also said you learned a lot and that is quite a good thing in and of itself.
Just a thought, (I could be very wrong), but that an increase in rod diameter increases rigidity exponentially. That is to say that if you increase from a 7/8" to a 1" rod the rigidity increases a lot more than by just 1/8.
Was quite nice see one of your oil cans in use over at CEE.
Gday, I think going to a bigger diameter rod would be a big help, I’m thinking of using square stock now, that will be more rigid again, Kurtis is really happy with the oil can I think, thanks for watching mate, Cheers
That's a shame it does not work as well as planned! you had a go though and that's the main thing. It will be good to see you come back and revisit this. Cheers, Craig
Gday Craig, version 2 is almost done and I really think it’ll work (fingers crossed), if it does there will be a short video showing and explaining how I made it, stay tuned mate, Cheers
@@MattysWorkshop Looking forward to it :)
G’day Matty good to see you mate I hope your health is better. Bloody nice gift he sent you, and I didn’t realise I wasn’t subscribed to you all fixed now. What size is the slitting saw and arbor? Look after yourself kind regards John PS that shaper is at the right speed for me anyway it’s a truly beautiful machine.
Gday, Thanks very much for subscribing mate, I cant remember what thickness that slitting saw was but it had a 1" centre, that saw had a hard life and turned into multi bits, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
It's still quite "pretty". Experience is the best teacher I've been told. Thanks for the look.
Gday John, it certainly is the best teacher, appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
I added a similar fixture to my mill using 30x20 rec with ex stability, it will always sway with round.
Gday, your spot on there for sure, live and learn I guess, thanks for watching mate, Cheers
gday matty nice job there mate have you looked at other bar shapes like hex or square they would be a lot more ridged than round you already have the top and bottom mounts cheers wayne
Gday Wayne, I’m looking at square now, it was worth a try mate, thanks for watching, Cheers
Do you think if you fixed the rod to the bottom base casting of the machine, put some adjustment grubs to deal with the uneven surface, that the rod flex would be reduced enough? Maybe you mentioned it somewhere in the video, but that'd be the first thing I'd look at, getting that rod secured at both ends. Otherwise great little build. Cheers from Victoria
Gday, that’s a really good to make a mount at the base, I’ve made a version 2 using square stock, I’m almost finished but haven’t filmed this build, if it works I’ll put up a short video showing and explaining how I made it, stay tuned mate, Cheers
Have a look at the bosch axial glide saw for a better way to do this. Basically add a big hinge it's well within your capabilities.
Gday Eric, I’ll check it out, Cheers
"I have not . I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." (Thomas Edison)
Permanent fix a laser pen somewhere on the head that points to a wall. Draw a vertical line on that wall where the point is and your machine will be repeatable.
Just an idea.
Gday Rustinox, I’ve had a few people say the say, I think I’ll have a go at this soon, thanks for watching mate, Cheers
A band saw would have made easy work of it Matty. 😂😂😂
Could a hydraulic shaft be attached to the column not for actuation but for a stiffer and perhaps a guide which could be aligned with mounts after attachment? At least some of the more accurate fitting would have been provide via within the hydraulic unit itself?
Hi Matty, hope it works for ya after so much tedious work but if does not there is guy in West Australia that has permanent solution for it! Cheers
Gday, I haven’t given up yet, still have a couple of things to try out, thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Most modifications are not quite there first time . Character building i call it !
Cheers .
Gday Max, definitely character building, hopefully I can get it right, Cheers
If it doesnt work, at least give it a good paint job. That's the win 🤓💪
(I got a little idea, i think even with bigger rod or double rod we still get some flex + plus bushing tolerance. How about the plate that attach to the head adjustable both ways so the rod can be adjust perfectly parallel with the column. Then only need 1 indicator from the base to the rod to keep it on the same reading everytime the head move to a new position. Sorry my english, hope this make sense 😅).
Gday Cà Lem, nothing wrong with your English mate, i understand what your saying here, I think your idea would work, what would you thoughts be on using a piece of 1” square stock in place of the 7/8 round?
@@MattysWorkshop it would work as well but nice straight, flat bar is hard to find than just hydraulic rods. Theyre often come with perfect round, straight and nice surface chrome coated. Maybe just use the same rod you have there and see how it works first. Just a thought crossed my mind. No experience at all.
It seems to me a CNC shaper might be interesting; it could run multiple passes and then go ding when it finishes so you could do other stuff in the meantime.
Gday Jim, that already happens, I just listen for it to stop cutting and that’s the ding, this is one big advantage to a shaper, your not winding handles all day,, thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Simple lightweight arms and dial indicator.
Hard luck Matty You gave it your best shot. I have 2 scenarios in my head, I would value your opinion. What would happen if you doubled up the device with a similar setup on the other side? and used a bigger offset on the rod/rods? the other idea I have is some sort of precision hinged thing with two arms and three pivots. Could use taper rollers so adjust the play to zero. hard to describe. You know the tapping device Abom uses? like two sections of that but vertical. Probably talking bollocks but it is a thought provoking problem. The zero option is to get another mill of course. All the best. Mart in the UK.
Gday Mart, I understand what you mean and good thoughts, I’m thinking of trying square stock next, thanks for commenting and watching, Cheers
Wishbone stabilizer with good bushings or heim joints at hinge points.
@@MattysWorkshop Hi Matty. I just had an idea. How about just fix a lazer of some sort on the head and have a vertical line drawn on the wall. Just realign the lazer to the line after every vertical adjustment. I shouldn't lay awake at night worrying about your mill, should I.
Matty I have been thinking which dangerous !
For my mill I have been researching Linear ball tracks or Linear slider bearings will have to view them for rigidity .
Old apprentice from Queensland
Gday, things get a little out of control when I start think to hard as well mate, it would be interesting to see how rigid the bearings and tracks are, thanks for watching mate, Cheers
I'm cooking something pretty similar. Nice to see your solution and results. What dia is your guide bar...? 25mm I was thinking two 32mm. what are your thoughts? Are you not locking the head and using the guide 'free'..? I was thinking only unlock the head between operations and using the guide just for readjusting, that should be enough rigidity to have 1 thoh-ish between ops. Are you saying 5 thou between ops?
Gday Max, I used 7/8 (.875”) 4140, bigger would be better for sure, I do lock the head after I adjust the height and it has around .005” side play when the heads unlocked, hope you can understand that, cheers
same problem with mine but now works fine after making up blocks top and bottom with adjustable gibs to run on the
sides of elevating rack
Gday, Great idea using the gibs, Thanks for watching, Cheers
The Quorn tool grinder Loctite's the column into the base to ensure squarenes of the rod. It is setup on a granite plate. You could do the same here without making a bushing.
Gday, that’s good food for thought, appreciate you watching, cheers
i'm having the same problem-and i am considering using some beefy linearralis and bearings,sinse i can get hold on them from work..the rails ar allmost 60mm wide,so i think that woud solve 2 problems-one beeing the "floppyness" of the system-mounting the rail directly to the headstock,adn then theese big bearings at the bottom,and the other is straightness,sinse theese things have a very high tolerancerating in straightness,one on each side or pherhaps one in the back and one on the side
Gday, I happy with how mines working, one at the back and one on the side will work very well, please let me know how you get on, cheers
Use a hardened shaft! That should eliminate flex!
Gday, I honestly thought this piece of 4140 would have been stiff enough but I was certainly wrong there, thanks for watching, Cheers
I've racked my brains on this issue and I've never figured out a solution
This solution worked pretty good, cheers
Great video Matty. Maybe an idea? Instead of one shaft, Why not two parallel shafts? Would two increase the rigidity?
Gday, that’s not a bad idea, Cheers
Bugger. Shame it didn't work
Is it due to the bar flexing, or clearances around the shaft?
Gday Tom, it’s mainly flex in the bar, I’m thinking of used 1” square stock, I have some here I found after doing a big clean up, forgot I had it, Cheers
Maybe a 2inch round bar would have given the stiffness required?
If I could get the wobble on my Harbor Freight drill press down to 5 thou, I’d be dancing in the street!
Would a second rod make enough difference for you, or do you have another idea?
Gday Kevin, this reduced the wobble quite a lot and shave its been ok, I do have another idea on how to fix this, im going to sell it and hopefully replace it with a Bridgeport style mill, fingers crossed anyway, thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
Gday Matty, what if you make the bottom clamp so you can slide it up the post more mate ?
Gday, that could possibly work to, thanks mate
not sure if it's possible. can you attach the rod to the column top and bottom and make the piece on the head slide?
Gday yes that can be done be done but there would be a fair bit of modifying to be done I think, thanks for watching mate, Cheers
HI MATTY, O.K. ITS NOT PERFACT, BUT WHOT IS ?. THEAR IS ALLWAYS ROOM FOF IMPROVMENT. I RECON IT IS A GOOD JOB, BETTER THAN BEFOR. REGARDS RICHARD.
Thanks Richard, appreciate your kind words mate, cheers
Ream it for the shaft
Damn shame that didn't workout. I'm sure you will come up with something. Regards kevin
Gday Kevin, hopefully mate I’ll sort it out, thanks for watching mate, Cheers
matty perhaps duplicate it on the other side should do the trick
Gday Robert, that could also work as well, Cheers
G’day Matty. Can’t fit another bar next to it could you or better still a 32mm bar in place of the 7/8”. You haven’t failed you’ve just learnt how not to do it. You fail when you don’t learn from this exercise and do nothing.
Keep up the good work mate and did you say it was out by a “bees dick” I’d like to see you measure that:-)
Cheers
Peter
Gday Peter, 32mm could work well, I’m thinking of square stock now, less chance of bending, I’ve never measured a bees old fella but I’ve been told there bloody tiny and I know how they feel😂, thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Hi Matty is your mill a hm-30 hafco
Gday, mine was a HM-32 mill, I’ve not long sold this machine, cheers
@@MattysWorkshop ok is that because it’s not up to your standards and I have the hm-30 but the spindle has movement or play in it do you know if you can still get parts for the hm 30 I’m hoping it’s just the bearings but with your experience on these machines could it be something else it’s my very first mill thanks again matty🤞🍺🍺👍🏻💖
@@tinaliebe5118 depending how much work your mill has done it maybe the worn spindle bearings, I found mine lacked rigidity all over, I wish I had never bought it to be honest mate
@@MattysWorkshop that’s ashamed it doesn’t give me much confidence how ever I will keep pushing I can only do my best with it i hope it suits my needs I might just do light cuts so what did you replace your with and was it better for your needs this time o and bye the way I really love your shaper I might get one One day 🍺🇦🇺
@@tinaliebe5118 when I got the Cincinnati mill I only used the HM-32 only a couple of times, if you take light cuts you be right, the alignment fixture I made for the column is a must in my opinion, this is an easy build to…
Also also it's only a failure if you don't learn from it.
Very true
Check out “ The Buildist “ channel on you tube. His is similar but different than yours
No worries I’ll have a look, thanks
dude just copy Bruce's it works
Stay tuned mate, I think I’ve got it sorted, Cheers