Troubleshoot a Water Pressure Regulator
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Signs & symptoms that a water pressure regulator is not working. Diagnose a defective water pressure regulator by using a water pressure test gauge.
A water pressure regulator is also called a PRV or a pressure reducing valve. A pressure reducing valve that is working properly is supposed to lower the municipal water pressure to a safe level for a house water supply system.
Some of the common symptoms of a bad water pressure regulator are low pressure, high pressure, leaks, & water hammers.
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Link to more Know How Now videos about Water Pressure Regulators: ua-cam.com/play/PLvce66kQTjJReaodK6EpMtVvRVi5o4Myu.html
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Excellent. No distraction of music and splash screens, like so many videos, where the author fancies themselves as a movie star. Just concise, clearly-spoken instruction, which is what we want. I wish all UA-cam tutorials were this good.
You are welcome, George. There are over 200 how to/repair videos, organized by playlist on the channel. If you find
some free time click on the channel name and check them out. If you subscribe (it's free) you will easily be able to find all of the videos.
Thanks for the great video. I have some knocking at the Water-main where it comes into the house in the garage around the same time every night. Very strange, repeats the exact same rhythm. If I turn on the washing machine or the sprinklers it will stop and come back the next night at the same time. Very quiet: Knock knock knock pause for 10 seconds, knock knock knock pause for 10 seconds …Trying to figure it out!
Maybe a problem with an expansion tank for your water heater? The bladders in the tank can fail. Is the pressure relief valve on the water heater dripping/letting water out? I have a video that might help: ua-cam.com/video/E8VJxb_eUQI/v-deo.html
very informative and well explained. thankyou
You are welcome. Please consider supporting the channel and subscribe, it's free.... and it will allow me to continue to add more videos.
I have low pressure on one zone of my 4 zone sprinkler system, the front lawn. And I hear a hum in the walls of my house when the front lawn zone is on. No noise from the outside solenoid valves. I don't hear a hum on the other 3 zones, but the front shrub drip zone does need the bleeder valve to be turned open and spraying a little water for the water to flow through. But I think that's a problem with my sprinkler valve anti-siphon, or could be a symptom of the front water system issue.
So I'm trying to determine if my issue could be a PRV. My house was built in '92. Do house manufacturers sometimes put a PRV for every zone of the sprinkler system? Or perhaps 1 for front and 1 for back, or just one for the whole system? Pressure in the house is fine and no humming. One of these days I want to climb in the attic to check it out, but it's summer 90s here, and I'm sure the attic is even hotter.
We get plenty of rain where I live, so I am not familiar with sprinkler systems. My guess is that you wouldn't want to reduce the pressure on a sprinkler system, but I may be all wet with that guess. A loose washer on a valve can cause vibration.
I have a Zurn 600X 1" PRV installed before the meter. The static pressure is 75 psi measured at hose bibb. When I turn one faucet in the hose the pressure drops to 45 psi. A 30 psi drop from a single faucet. Could this indicate a faulty PRV? City came out and looked and checked the main valve to see if it was opened all the way. The house is 4 years old. I have checked the PRV strainer and cleaned it but still have this issue. The pressure drop from a single faucet should not be over 10 psi.
I wasn't trying to Ride the Lightning is supposed to be on my play Hit List not even on there I got to start digging equity in selected from the screen I couldn't even speak into my phone my daddy still is not wired directly to the right away Metallica Ride the Lightning that's the song it wasn't there
I have low water pressure throughout the whole house. I will look to see if the filter is clogged. Thanks for the video.
You are welcome.
Well done. I wish all DIY videos were so concise.
Thank You! I watched a couple of your videos. It was helpful to diagnose the problem with my 30 year old pressure regulator. I purchased and installed a new one.
You are welcome. I enjoy hearing that the videos are helpful. Have a great day.
I had a plumber here doing a series of small projects for 3 hours. At one point we shut off water to the house in order to install a faucet and pop-up drain. Later that day I realized that my water pressure seemed higher. All of the toilets are also making more noise when the tank is refilling. This has been going on for 6 weeks now. I believe the shut off valve on the whole house line is OPEN to the same degree (full) both before and after our plumbing project day. Any ideas about this? No separate water heater. No water pressure gauges on this line. THANKS. You are rocking it!
Do you have a water pressure regulator? Maybe some debris/dirt got into it. Some have a screen/clean out.
I recently turned off the water supply that has a 1/4 turn valve during a water hose replacement at the sink. Since turning it back on, there is a noticeable reduction in flow and/or pressure throughout the home. I do not have a gauge yet, but wondering if the PRV could be the culprit. The main valve is turned all the way back on, so any ideas would be appreciated.
Maybe some debris is the problem. Testing the pressure is a good idea. Some PRV's have a screen/clean out.
what if static water pressure reading is 100 psi and running water is 60 psi. I can still control the PRV. but still the static water pressure is 100 psi, but I can lower the running to 20 psi. does that mean I need to replace the prv?
The valve is supposed to lower the pressure on the house side of the prv valve. Code says it's supposed to be 80 psi. Here's a link to the test video: ua-cam.com/video/JJ5mv7lhyFI/v-deo.html
Mine won't reduce the pressure no matter how I turn it counterclockwise
If it won't adjust, then it likely needs to be replaced. I have a video that shows how to do that: ua-cam.com/video/KJ1MReTK7GA/v-deo.html
Excellent video! My valve looks a little different, my house was built in 2006. You're quite an industrious person!! 👍
You can likely find the installation instructions for you valve on the manufacturers website.
I come from a family of trades people. My dad was a carpenter and built our house by himself. Growing up, we rarely hired anyone to do work around the home. Only a company to clean & service the oil furnace which my uncle installed. Before You Tube, someone was often asking my dad how to do something over a Saturday morning cup of coffee. As a youngster, I got a steady diet of home repairs. I love to learn and tinker with stuff. I'm having a lot of fun making the videos. Thanks for watching them.
Can you tell me what valve you have disassembled in the video that was faulty? I have the same valve but cannot find a manufacturer anywhere on it. Mine has stopped regulating the resting pressure and I am looking for a rebuild kit but don't want to get the wrong one.
I don't have it anymore. I do recall looking up the manufacturer and they have been bought by another company or have gone out of business.
Thank you for that very concise, well spoken information.
You are welcome. As many others have done, please consider subscribing. It's free and you will easily be able to find over 200 how to/repair videos that are organized by playlist.
If the main water source is cut off by water source supplier, for example a system of providing water on a "one day on and one day off" basis, will the zero water supply day alter or erase the psi set/programmed on the pressure regulator valve? In other words, erase the preset psi. Thank you.
It's mechanically controlled, so turning off the supply won't change the setting. If work is being done on the municipal supply, it is possible for debris to get caught inside the valve.
Ours has always made a loud knocking noise whenever water flow stops flowing such as when someone turns off a faucet. But even in the middle of the night it makes loud knocking noises when nobody is running water, and it is located right under my master bedroom, so it is quite annoying. Do you think this is normal or should it be replaced? It is less than a year old.
I'd start by checking the water pressure, have you done that? If no, here's a link on how to test the water pressure: ua-cam.com/video/ySfaBvV6e84/v-deo.html.
Install an air trap. Air hammer.
Very thorough! Link to mentioned UA-cam on the description possible? :)
If I remember correctly, there are clickable links at the end of the video and I likely have pinned a comment to the top of the comments with links.
Great information here. But place reduce the amount of up speech and the is no such thing as a "hot" water heater.
It's an older video and I've realized that some people seem to be annoyed about saying hot water heater. UA-cam does not allow me to make that kind of edits. I am always trying to improve the quality of the videos. Thanks for the diplomatic criticism.
You never check pressure on a hot water heater. Hot water increases pressure. Always check on the cold side.
Well unfortunately you weren't listening. She said testing while the hot water heater is not in a heating cycle.
Should I rebuild my PRV periodically even though it appears to be working properly? It's about eight years old. We have hard water. That last one had stopped working by the eight year mark. Or should I not fix things that ain't broke?
That's a tough call. If I had some free time, I'd likely change it out. Better than having a bad timed emergency failure. At minimum, I would have replacement on hand.
@@Know-How-Now Thx.
I did a heating tune up today on a 20 year old Weil McClain boiler. After i bled the boiler of water to get sediment and air out of the pipes, i pushed the regulator a bit to pressurize the system. Please tell me if i did this the wrong way. The regulator would not stop feeding water and i had to shut the water off and set up a service call. What can i learn from this experience ?
You might want to check out this thread: terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/bleeding-air-out-of-boiler-system.63149/
Thank you for sharing!
You are welcome, it's my pleasure to help.
excellent presentation....for sure helping me become informed about my house plumbing basics.
Thanks for watching!
could a failed prv cause a humming though the house?
It is possible a bad prv is causing humming. I'd try an old trick used by auto mechanics. Get a steel rod and place it on the prv, put your ear lobe on the other end of the prv, then have someone turn the water on. If the prv is making the noise it will be transferred to your ear lobe via the rod.
Old ball cocks on toilets can be noisy too. Turn off the shut off valve to the toilet and see if the noise stops.
Our house was doing humming and it was a bad back flow prevention valve at the municipal water meter at the curb.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. I don't have all the answers.
@@Know-How-Now Or it has air because it was installed wrong like the one in this video. air squishes unlike water which can cause the valve to open and close rapidly making a humming noise. The same can be said for a bad spring on a back flow prevention valve.
I know that voice
It's not Jody Foster! lol!
@@Know-How-Now lmao 😂
Tnx, nice and clear... And I'm having trouble finding the video that tests the regulator.
Click on the channel name and you can find all the videos on the channel, they are organized by playlist. Here's a link: ua-cam.com/video/JJ5mv7lhyFI/v-deo.html
Thanks 😊
You are welcome.
My regulator has a small hole at the end of the Bell near the adjustment screw and it is dripping. What is wrong?
The rubber diaphragm has probably failed. Some times there is a rebuilt kit available & the valve can be rebuilt. I have a video that shows the inside of one of these valves: ua-cam.com/video/In8qBepq5x4/v-deo.html
Before I start an install or repair, I check you channel. Your videos are always informative and helpful. In early December, I replaced a Pressure Regulator (1" Watts), and set the pressure to 45. At install, I connected two gauges, each with a black and red needle to two outside spigots, and I check them daily or more often. The two gauges read about 45 for 99% of the time - the black needle shows about 45 and the red needle shows up to 80. However, once in a long while, the black needle shows a pressure of 140 which is our inlet pressure. As soon as water is run, the black needle drops back down to 45. This 140 reading happens rarely. Our temp last night hit the low to mid 30s and this reading was at 10AM. Any ideas why this rare 140 max reading happens. I'm at a loss. We've lived in this house since 1980 and I replaced this pressure regulator once before in the 90s. A copper re-piping contractor had previously replaced it in 2007.
You might try kicking up the temp on your water heater to make it heat and see if that causes the pressure increase to 140. If the high pressure is caused by the water heater, then if you have an expansion tank, the tank lining may have failed. If that is not the cause, then I would give Watts tech support a call. They may have some more ideas.
@@Know-How-Now Thanks for your super fast reply. I have a gas water heater and no expansion tank. Since its installation during a copper re-piping in 2007, we have had a recirculating hot water pump (uses a return hot water pipe from the end point to complete the loop). It runs 24/7/365 as we like having hot water as soon as we turn the faucet or shower control on. Could this always on recirculating pump be a contributor to my rare 140 reading? Thanks.
@@Know-How-Now I turned down our water heater overnight to its Vacation setting, the water pressure stayed at its 45 setting overnight, and the water pressure went up to 140 when I turned the water heater back on (B setting) this morning at 10AM. It appears I need a Thermal Expansion Tank. The mystery of all this is that I only recently noticed the high pressure readings. We've had four Watts Pressure Regulator Valves installed in 42 years, and I don't recall seeing these thermal expansion caused high water pressure readings before. A Mystery!
Does the new PRV have a thermal bypass? My system does not have an expansion tank nor any kind of back flow valve. The PRV has a thermal bypass. The bypass allows the expanded water caused by the water heater activation to flow back to the municipal supply. The pressure does increase when the water heater turns on, then is released by the bypass. Older codes did not require an back flow valve/expansion tank. I have another video that shows how to install an PRV. At the end of it, I test the new PRV and talk about the thermal bypass. Here's the link to the video ua-cam.com/video/KJ1MReTK7GA/v-deo.html
@@Know-How-Now Thanks again for continuing our dialogue. Yes, my Watts PRV has a thermal bypass. However my input supply pressure is 140PSI. As Watts states: "This regulator has a built-in thermal expansion bypass feature. This feature prevents downstream pressure from rising to more than 10PSI above the supply pressure". Since my supply pressure is 140PSI (has always been), when my water heater turns on, my water pressure rises to a max of 140 + 10 PSI. This is way too high. I plan to install a Watts Thermal Expansion Tank on the cold water inlet to my water heater so I can maintain my water pressure between 45 - 60.
That prv is upside down. If the water is turned off at the street and someone in the house uses a toilet or faucet it can allow air to enter the line. when the water is back on that air can get trapped at the peak of the prv and the valve will not work correctly. If the pointy side is down this cannot happen.
Step 6 of the installation instructions say: Regulator may be installed vertically or horizontally (upright or inverted).
@@Know-How-Now That is correct. It will function either way. However it will function more reliably in only one way. I've installed hundreds of these. I'm sure you have came across someone that were the opposite way. That isn't by accident.
@@Know-How-Now I do want to add that if the line is galvanized then putting it the way in the videos would be correct. But if the line is plastic or copper I put them the other way and never get called back for a humming noise due to air. Usually these will fix themselves, but not always.
Thanks for the input, it will be helpful for anyone who is experiencing the humming noise, they can try spinning their regulator 180 degrees. I'm sure if I would have mounted mine the opposite way people would have been thumbs downing the video and telling me it's upside down.
My experience is that manufacturer's installation instructions are usually good advice, however, nothing is better than life experience for the best way to do something.
Good video! Thank you!
You are welcome, Todd!
Great video. I think mine is bad. Pressure on boiler keeps going to 20psi and when I turn the little handle it doesnt change. Are these easy to change? Do I have to bleed or drain whole boiler?
I have a video showing how to replace a PRV on a water supply system, but do not have one on the topic of boilers. You might want to search for "replace pressure relief valve boiler" for tips on how to replace it.
My Water Pressure Regulator Valve is making a knocking noise, what is causing that? Thanks in advance
Check out this thread: terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/pressure-reducer-tapping-sound.59604/
WATTS WATER TECHNOLOGIES 5DMC9 / 5DMC9 (RQANS1) REGULATOR PRESSURE 3/8IN 3-50PSI . I have this water regulator, where can I get a repair kit? Thank you very much for all the information 😊
I would call Watts customer service to get a model number for the kit and then you'll need to shop. You many also consider buying a new identical regulator & a repair kit. You can install the new regulator and rebuild the other at your leisure..... not under the gun of having all of the water shut off. Then you can just rotate rebuilding & replacing process in the future. www.watts.com/support
Thank you very much 😊
I did not like video because you said debris can keep the valve open. I thought debris will cause pressure drop.
Thank you for the honest comment Manaohar. If there is debris in there, for sure it can cause a problem. I suppose it could clog or cause the valve to hang open. The point is that there could be debris inside and cleaning it might solve the problem.
So if the valve hangs open will it cause the pressure to increase or drop. Also if it hangs open will it cause water hammer in lines.
Uptalking at the end of every sentence. Cringe-worthy.
Let's put things in perspective, lizard944. You have a problem to be solved and look for help. You watch a video, it costs you nothing but your time. You response to someone who is trying to help you, for free, is to make a personal attack.
@@Know-How-Now i thought this video was excellent, do not understand Lizards criticism .
@@Know-How-Now you did a great job! Haters are going to hate.