Very cool and extremely useful. I was just thinking if you drilled a passage to the back/bottom so you could move the inlet as needed and there you were, three steps ahead.
Nice 👌. I think anyone capable of making their own tools should do so. It's usually much better quality than what you can purchase. The hours spent can add up but if you can do it evenings or weekends then what does it matter.
Thanks 48spokes. I had considered trying to protect the idea. Never been done that road before, I was hoping the video would do well instead. Looks like you do a nice job restoring things 👍
Great idea, really... I wanted to ask, about the Spider rear fenders in a previous video, you had commented about the heat shrinkage along the seams on the outside, and how if the fenders were removed they could be wheeled or formed back out to the correct profile. How often do you attempt this, and isn't there is a risk of cracking from the Mig welds being not ductile enough? I'd had the impression that this wasn't very feasible, and that you could only expect to do something like this after/during gas welding (hammer welding), but admittedly I've not had an occasion to try it myself yet.
Hi, you can cause cracks in a mig welded joint but only when you try and stretch it a lot. If you need to stretch the welded joint a lot then you have caused a lot of shrinkage by not keeping the welding procedure cool enough. Very little in the way of stretching is needed if you use the correct welding method. The very small amount of stretching required is achieved very easily and quickly. To cause a crack you would have to be pounding on the panel aggressively and for a prolonged time period. Can't remember the last time I caused a weld crack, it was a long time ago back when I didn't know how to keep distortion to a minimum.
That's a great compliment, I would suspect that it would be too expensive for me to make one the same. Perhaps a cheaper method of construction could be more viable. At what price do you think the tool would sell ? My guess is £200 would be what someone would be wiling to pay. I already had the porta power hydraulic pump and the shrinking jaws. I think it took me about 10 hours to make on a manual mill. Cnc would be the way to get the price down.
@bensclassicbodywork you'd deserve the compliment man! That tool is neat, the easy access to different panels compared to those on the market with long handles makes it extremely desirable. You should patent your idea. I'll try to fabricate mine figuring out measurements by seeing your video. Wish me luck 🤣
@👍 I considered a patent before posting the video but thought I'll try my luck with possible big views. It hasn't worked out. 😆 Hey ho. If you need any more info with making one just ask. 👌
@ No probs, I do have a Facebook page called classic car body restoration. Don't think I can add a link to a UA-cam comment. It's not something I use or update a lot but if it's easier you could message through that. Email is the other option which is displayed in the about section.
Brilliant! Sometimes I think building the tools is more fun than doing the job.
You're right. I enjoyed making this a lot, never made a hydraulic piston before. Love doing new stuff.
Very cool and extremely useful. I was just thinking if you drilled a passage to the back/bottom so you could move the inlet as needed and there you were, three steps ahead.
Brilliant, well done!
That's brilliant Ben ! I made a 30 ton king pin press a while ago, took ages, but was a success.... A grand cheaper than buying one!
Nice 👌. I think anyone capable of making their own tools should do so. It's usually much better quality than what you can purchase. The hours spent can add up but if you can do it evenings or weekends then what does it matter.
That's is awesome Ben. Great to see all of your calculations too. You should patent it 👍
Kind regards Paul from 48 Spokes
Thanks 48spokes.
I had considered trying to protect the idea. Never been done that road before, I was hoping the video would do well instead.
Looks like you do a nice job restoring things 👍
@@bensclassicbodywork Thank you Ben, I am a bit obsessed. Like yourself, it keeps me very busy and out of trouble 😁
Clever.
well done mr. stark
😊 thanks
Neat job that,
Very well done .
Love it 👍
I like this very much !
That's ace, did you use any seals on the pistons?
Thanks, yes I just ordered some 14mm diameter hydraulic seals online.
Great idea, really...
I wanted to ask, about the Spider rear fenders in a previous video, you had commented about the heat shrinkage along the seams on the outside, and how if the fenders were removed they could be wheeled or formed back out to the correct profile. How often do you attempt this, and isn't there is a risk of cracking from the Mig welds being not ductile enough? I'd had the impression that this wasn't very feasible, and that you could only expect to do something like this after/during gas welding (hammer welding), but admittedly I've not had an occasion to try it myself yet.
Hi, you can cause cracks in a mig welded joint but only when you try and stretch it a lot. If you need to stretch the welded joint a lot then you have caused a lot of shrinkage by not keeping the welding procedure cool enough. Very little in the way of stretching is needed if you use the correct welding method.
The very small amount of stretching required is achieved very easily and quickly. To cause a crack you would have to be pounding on the panel aggressively and for a prolonged time period. Can't remember the last time I caused a weld crack, it was a long time ago back when I didn't know how to keep distortion to a minimum.
Fair enough, thanks for the comment ! @@bensclassicbodywork
This would cut trial fitting times in half! Can I buy one??!!
I need to give it a thorough testing but will see how successful it is with regard to making more. Thanks for the interest.
Hi brother, your VW bus roof repair video took me here. I'd be very interested on buying this tool from you if you plan to make any extras.
That's a great compliment, I would suspect that it would be too expensive for me to make one the same. Perhaps a cheaper method of construction could be more viable.
At what price do you think the tool would sell ? My guess is £200 would be what someone would be wiling to pay. I already had the porta power hydraulic pump and the shrinking jaws. I think it took me about 10 hours to make on a manual mill. Cnc would be the way to get the price down.
@bensclassicbodywork you'd deserve the compliment man! That tool is neat, the easy access to different panels compared to those on the market with long handles makes it extremely desirable. You should patent your idea. I'll try to fabricate mine figuring out measurements by seeing your video. Wish me luck 🤣
@👍 I considered a patent before posting the video but thought I'll try my luck with possible big views. It hasn't worked out. 😆
Hey ho. If you need any more info with making one just ask. 👌
@@bensclassicbodywork thanks a million Ben. I'll need some advice from your side for sure. Do you have Instagram or Facebook page by any chance?
@ No probs, I do have a Facebook page called classic car body restoration. Don't think I can add a link to a UA-cam comment. It's not something I use or update a lot but if it's easier you could message through that. Email is the other option which is displayed in the about section.
Nifty... 👌👍🙌