I've had that Ryobi Airstrike nailer for two years now. I do a ton of woodworking projects. I think that's one of the best tools I've ever bought. Really impressed with it for a battery-powered nailer.
@@thebarberettez i bought the cheaper $100 brad nailer you guys think it will be enough to do a project like this? very early noob to DIY and wood working
I don’t know why it wouldn’t work, just make sure you get long enough nails. The only thing that I’m unsure of is if that nailer can hold long enough nails because if you’re doing too short of nails, obviously it’s going to come out and not be as secure.
I love how your daughter who is holding the shiplap for you while you talk about how to cutout around the wall switches is nodding in agreement with you at 2:54 as if she is thinking, "Yes, Dad you are correct with your plan. I'm here to make sure you do not lead the viewers astray. Great job." :)
I’m 14 and I had to do this in the Carolinas to help my brother in a job and then I had just done some on 1 wall in my moms kitchen and used the same 1x2x12 as trim but I ran ours to the roof and just put trim around corners and a window she wanted done.
I just cut the top piece to fit the space that was left and then if you have a gap you can caulk it or you can put a one by two over it also. You could also run a one by two along the ceiling and have the shiplap meet up to it at the top, and then caulk any small cracks.
Currently doing this in two rooms. Instead of shooting the nails through the visible face of the shiplap, I've been shooting into the hidden part of the tongue (hidden after the next piece is put up), then just adding a nail into the face where absolutely needed to minimize filling holes.
Bottom board was a 1x6 trim board that is used to cover the space between the space between the floor and the sheetrock behind it. Let me know if that doesn’t make sense.
Yes, I am with you there! I’ve used that nailer to trim to full houses and still use it for other projects today. Have probably had it for five years now.
Great video. Can I do this with crown moulding? It's a small wall we want to do this on just worried about the crown moulding. Also where did you get the shiplap again? Thanks again
Thanks, I’m not sure if you can do it with Crown molding because I’ve never done crown molding, sorry I couldn’t help more. I bought the shiplap at Home Depot.
Great job. Quick question how long did you take to do this I did 2 walls almost indetical to yours with outlets and 2 circular lights.. took me 2hrs but my boss said I took too long? I feel like it's reasonable I had an outside corner so I had to do 45°cuts
You did better than me, this probably took me five or six hours to do the two walls I was doing and yes, there was a 45° in the corner. If you did it in two hours, good on you, if it looked good afterward.
So say you were renting... would you be able to remove this without damaging the wall? If you used a nail gun. You would have small holes I imagine but I wanted to do a frame over a large mural. How would you recommend removing it?
Great question, you are right you would have to fill holes afterward, but other than that I don’t know that it would cause much other damage to the wall unless you glued it or something. Best suggestion would be to put a block of wood under a crowbar when you remove it so that you are denting the wood, not the wall.
Looks good but as a professional electrician I'd highly suggest using a box extender around the electrical receptacle. This area between the finished surface and the finished surface around the electrical box must be covered to prevent igniting combustible parts like the shiplap. Very seldom is this code section enforced but it could;d prevent from starting a fire in your home.
@@thebarberettez I live in a townhome with shared walls built in 1984. Between me and my neighbors is some 2 x 4 s and the cheapest 1/2 inch drywall you can buy. So I want to cover the shared walls with shiplap. Do you have any advice for additional soundproofing? Should I pull the existing drywall on my side and add insulation before shiplap? Can I put some layer of foam in between the existing drywall and the shiplap? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. cheers
I think pulling drywall and all that would be more work than it’s worth. Adding the shiplap will be another layer that will provide soundproofing on top of the existing insulation and sheet rock. The only other way I could think to make it quieter between your townhome and the neighbors would be to build another wall in front of the existing one and add some soundproof insulation to that and then put shiplap on that wall instead of sheet rock.
In Modern Living Room Everyone Using "SoundProof Curtains" That Stops Outside Noise by 80% (25 Db) Tested. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
Did you add anything like Liquid Nails behind the shiplap? Or are 2" brad nails sufficient? Curious because I foresee my wife changing her mind in a few years and wanting me to tear this out.
I just use the nails, otherwise you will destroy your sheet rock behind it and if you change your mind later, you will have to replace your sheet rock to
I watched a couple dozen siplap videos to prepare for my project. You video was the most helpful! Thank you! I do have a question about the top piece of trim. From the comments below, sounds like you cut the top board so the trim would lay flat against the top and wall? I've already installed my shiplap (today) and I'm left with the lip (or tongue... whatever it is called) at the top. Did I mess up?
No, you just have to cut off the excess at the top so that it sits flush on the ceiling and then caulk the top if there is any gap that you don’t want to see
Have you considered buying a strong neodimium magnet? - I use that instead of an expensive stud finder or the more "traditional" method of drilling 13 holes next to eachother until you hit wood. The idea of the magnet is you wave it around over the wall and eventually (~10 seconds) you will find a nail or screw which represents the center of your stud. To be on the safe side just move it up or down afterwards to make sure it is indeed a stud (to find another nail/ screw). That is a $5-10 extremely accurate stud finder.
Magnets don’t detect AC though. You wouldn’t want to drive a screw into a potential electrical cable running through a stud. Still around $10. Maybe $15. Always caution on the side of safety when anything electrical is involved!
Great vid man, you actually pointed out mistakes you made that the majority of us would as well. Most don't show that valuable info and the for guys like myself who can rebuild just about anything that runs on fuel, but are completely lost when it comes to carpentry/home improvement, your vid was very informative and saved me from making same mistakes. When it comes to working on cars and outdoor power equipment, I am very methodical and precise, but when it comes to home improvement, I am lost, which is pretty sad, considering my dad finished concrete 43 years, and could build a house from ground up, but I wasn't interested at the time, and he has been gone since 98 so I am basically lost.
Yeah, just cause I overdue securing things, it’s just how I’m built. But really, it only took a little extra time to fill a few extra holes to know that it was really super secure at the bottom.
Does it matter if you install from top or bottom first? And if it is new construction, do you think it is okay to skip drywall and nail directly to the studs?
No, it’s totally your preference on whether you want to install from the bottom up or from the top down, as far as not using drywall you could, but it might make your house more echoey, and not a soundproof, I think she rock helps out a bit
Yes, you absolutely could, having said that it depends on how you nail your shiplap. For example, if you are nailing your shiplap into all of the studs, then they should be pretty sturdy for hanging pictures on, but within reason. I wouldn’t suggest hanging something more than maybe 30 to 40 pounds on it though unless you know hit a stud behind the shiplap
@@thebarberettez To build on this: Can you edit the video description to include all the tools you used, the details of the board sizes, and anything else you think would be helpful. Literally going to buy the same tools you are using if I can figure out what they are.
How did you join where the walls meet? Did you cut a 45 on each or did you butt one up against the wall, and then butt the joining one up against the board?
Because my walls weren’t plum and each one of them was coming off a quarter inch off or an 8th inch off so I wanted to make sure they were all even on the one end
And if you’re going to do an entire wall in Shiplap, start at the top and work your way down, that way you bury your cut at the bottom where it’s less visible.
@@thebarberettez it makes sense. Do you recommend starting at the top or the bottom? Obviously things are probably not going to line up exactly so you're going to have to cut either the top piece in half or the bottom piece to fit.
Because my wall was not plum, and I wanted all the pieces to line up on the left side and I was getting different measurements. If you don’t go into studs, there’s a better chance of it coming loose and falling off.
Much easier to only nail on the top, down at an angle through the tongue, bottom is held by the tongue and groove. No exposed nail holes, no putty or finish paint . My whole basement is tongue and groove shiplap. Not a single filled hole.
Barberettez took my baseboard off, and spaced them 1/4 off the floor. Face nailed along the bottom of the floor (which would be covered up after with baseboard), then nailed diagonally down in the tongue. All boards after that, sit the groove down on the tongue and again nail that row in the tongue. All ties together with no exposed nails.
Barberettez AH! I just realized you have true cut shiplap, not tongue and groove. The shiplap you have is actually a rabbet, not tongue and groove. (Confused me cause you said tongue and groove at the beginning)
curious what brand of shiplap you used and did you paint it? what about the 1x2? was that pre-painted? thanks. looks great. going to do this instead of drywall on our remodel
Just a question, how did you end the top piece? you used tongue and groove correct? Did you have to cut off the tongue part to set the 1x2 on top? Thank, GREAT video!! Looks great also!!!
We are almost done with our wall. 18 feet long by 12 feet 2 inches tall. Our shiplap boards are a little over 7 inches wide. My wife laid it all out on AutoCAD first and just to double check, we sacrificed one 12' board by cutting it into 4 inches pieces. We stacked these up and tacked them to the wall to see how we would end at the top. The top board would have been skinny, which would have looked odd. So, we cut the bottom boards skinny and worked up to a mostly full board at the top. We could have started at the top with a full board and worked down, but since we were new to this we thought it would be easier to get the hang of it standing on the ground rather than twelve feet in the air.
Having a hard time deciding if I should leave my baseboards or not. Also one thing I hate about my house is that ALL of the trim pieces and doors are just a bit off white so I feel like I can’t leave the shiplap white bc it should look “wrong” or “off”. Thoughts on those things?
It's probably easier to just show the seems. It's a good look as long as they are uniform width and the boards are cut straight. Our wall is 18 feet wide. We bought 12 foot boards. We came up with a layout, starting from the right, the first row begins with an 11 foot board, next row behind with a 7 footer, third row begins with a 3 foooter. That way, we had very little waste. For example, first row is 11' board, 7' board. 2nd row is 7' board, 11' board. Third row is 3' board, 12' board, 3' board. Then repeat. So, our only waste is where we cut a foot off the 12' boards to make an 11' board.
I have a window with bull-nose edges on the wall I want to apply shiplap. How would you handle that? Also, If the cieling is not flush, how to avoid a space? One more thing, I noticed in the fast part of video, you measured the length of the board each time you put one up. Why? I would think just a check with a leveler would be good. BTW...my wife will be installing.
Not sure about the bullnose, I’d have to see it, if the ceilings not flush, you just cut the piece to fit what space is left and caulk if necessary. I measured each time because my wall was not plumb so I was getting different lengths and I wanted them to all line up on the one side.
Hello! I am planning to do the exact same thing to one of my walls! It’ll be my first project ever using power tools, which is very intimidating. I really appreciate your video. I had a question, my wall is 10 feet long with a window in the middle, would you recommend I purchase the 12 foot and cut off 2 feet and use the scraps around the window or use 8 foot and use scraps all around? I don’t know if I’m making sense 😟. Also, do I need to do anything extra to make sure I can put the outlet back on after the shiplap is on? Thank you for any help you can provide me!!
Barberettez thank you for taking the time and giving me such a thorough response!! I think I will do the same as you and go with the 12 foot boards to avoid the lines. The window trim does make sense because I have been watching SO MANY VIDEOS! The only issue is that it’s a bullnose window, but I think I know how to get around that issue. Hopefully it works out. My order is once again delayed, but I’ll keep watching videos to feel a little bit more comfortable.
Barberettez thank you! Last question, how did you make sure the screw from the outlet reached once the shiplap was on? If I purchase a longer screw, will it work? Are all outlet screws universal size? I’m sorry for the stupid questions, again, I’m a COMPLETE beginner!
@@janeth6820 I bought longer screws from Lowe's in the electrical department. They had indented sections down the screws so you could cut them to length. I had a small bolt cutters that I used to snip mine to the appropriate length.
I wouldn’t use scraps on the window I think it would look pieced together and not very good, so I would just buy the 12 feet and cut them the length of the basically they need to fill taking into account the whole in the window, I hope that makes sense
Love that you're a real guy who learned as you went and shared that. I learned much more watching you than a master carpenter.
For real. I'm getting use to doing DIY stuff and it's comforting to learn from someone who appears to be about as capable as I am
Thank you very much, glad you learned so much. :-)
I love white shiplap! It will never ever go out of style!
Agreed, it’s pretty timeless ⭐️
It’s so cool he had his daughter helping him. Great video.
@@thebarberettez agreeded 😎👍
Thanks so much, I try to involve them in most everything I do.
SO FAR BEST VID OUT THERE ON real shiplap. THANKS
Thanks so much, glad you found it helpful, sorry for the late response, lol
I've had that Ryobi Airstrike nailer for two years now. I do a ton of woodworking projects. I think that's one of the best tools I've ever bought. Really impressed with it for a battery-powered nailer.
@@thebarberettez i bought the cheaper $100 brad nailer you guys think it will be enough to do a project like this? very early noob to DIY and wood working
Couldn’t agree more. I’ve had mine for the better part of five years now and it is a fantastic tool.
I don’t know why it wouldn’t work, just make sure you get long enough nails. The only thing that I’m unsure of is if that nailer can hold long enough nails because if you’re doing too short of nails, obviously it’s going to come out and not be as secure.
I love how your daughter who is holding the shiplap for you while you talk about how to cutout around the wall switches is nodding in agreement with you at 2:54 as if she is thinking, "Yes, Dad you are correct with your plan. I'm here to make sure you do not lead the viewers astray. Great job." :)
Thanks so much for pointing that out, I loved that moment as well, and didn’t see it until you pointed it out to me, very happy dad moment for me :-)
Love seeing the family help out good stuff
Thank you, we do our best to include our kids in almost everything we do :)
I’m 14 and I had to do this in the Carolinas to help my brother in a job and then I had just done some on 1 wall in my moms kitchen and used the same 1x2x12 as trim but I ran ours to the roof and just put trim around corners and a window she wanted done.
Nice, good for you! Knowing how to do carpentry is a great skill
I love it I'm trying to do a Diy on my own with shiplap. Thank you you were very helpful.
Thanks, good luck I bet it will turn out great!
Man you should sell playlists because your music is the bomb. Keep on doing what you doing have a great day
OmG looks very clean and cozy!! No doubt that you couldn’t have done it without your amazing assistant 😂😊 Great job 👏
Thank you. Nope, my assistants help me a lot I’m grateful to have them :-)
Thank u so much for posting the video. Can you please show how did u finish the top cap that hides the shiplap top edge ?
I just cut the top piece to fit the space that was left and then if you have a gap you can caulk it or you can put a one by two over it also. You could also run a one by two along the ceiling and have the shiplap meet up to it at the top, and then caulk any small cracks.
Best shiplap video I've seen yet. What is your opinion about using MDF instead of regular wood shiplap.?
Thanks so much. MDF is definitely more budget friendly but it can have more problems if it gets wet (it swells) vs. wood
Currently doing this in two rooms. Instead of shooting the nails through the visible face of the shiplap, I've been shooting into the hidden part of the tongue (hidden after the next piece is put up), then just adding a nail into the face where absolutely needed to minimize filling holes.
That’s what I should’ve done, but didn’t learn that until later
What did you use for the bottom board the first board that comes off the floor it looks a little thicker. Does it have a bead?
Bottom board was a 1x6 trim board that is used to cover the space between the space between the floor and the sheetrock behind it. Let me know if that doesn’t make sense.
It’s so simple but yes hard work with love needed🌈.
Love your family. Holy God bless you all.
Definitely not as difficult as I thought it was going to be, but definitely hard work, yes. Thank you so much.
Cool. I could totally be friends with this guy. Nice job on your project. Will be starting mine soon.
Nice, I’m sure we could be friends too, I hope your project went good as well
Nice work!!! Came out beautiful!!! Perfect!! 12ft pieces from Home Depot!! RYOBI for $150 can’t beat that!!
RYOBI are great tools!!!
Couldn’t agree more I have many of them and they have helped me complete many a project. Thanks so much
I have that same Brad nailer!! Works awesome!
Yes, I am with you there! I’ve used that nailer to trim to full houses and still use it for other projects today. Have probably had it for five years now.
Great video. Can I do this with crown moulding? It's a small wall we want to do this on just worried about the crown moulding. Also where did you get the shiplap again? Thanks again
Thanks, I’m not sure if you can do it with Crown molding because I’ve never done crown molding, sorry I couldn’t help more. I bought the shiplap at Home Depot.
Thank you so much for this informative and comical video! 😄
You’re welcome, I’m glad it edu-tained you 😊
nice job. Looks like a good little helper at 2:56 haha. i wish i could have a kid help me with this haha
Lol, thanks so much. Yeah they were a great help for the whole project :)
Thanks This gave me the confidence I need to shiplap
Awesome! So glad to hear it, good luck with your project 👍🏻
Thanks for this helpful video. We are getting ready to do two small areas of shiplap in our home.
My pleasure, hope it helps
Did you miter the corners or just butt them up ?
I wish we could see a real close shot of the proper way to nail the boards. Will it fit in the groove after the boards are put together?
Sorry for the late reply, yes, the edges all fit together nicely, hope that answers your question
Great job. Quick question how long did you take to do this I did 2 walls almost indetical to yours with outlets and 2 circular lights.. took me 2hrs but my boss said I took too long? I feel like it's reasonable I had an outside corner so I had to do 45°cuts
You did better than me, this probably took me five or six hours to do the two walls I was doing and yes, there was a 45° in the corner. If you did it in two hours, good on you, if it looked good afterward.
So say you were renting... would you be able to remove this without damaging the wall? If you used a nail gun. You would have small holes I imagine but I wanted to do a frame over a large mural. How would you recommend removing it?
Great question, you are right you would have to fill holes afterward, but other than that I don’t know that it would cause much other damage to the wall unless you glued it or something. Best suggestion would be to put a block of wood under a crowbar when you remove it so that you are denting the wood, not the wall.
Did you cut the tongue off of the top piece before putting on your 1x2?
Sure did, I cut the top piece to fit the space that was left. 👍🏻
Looks good but as a professional electrician I'd highly suggest using a box extender around the electrical receptacle. This area between the finished surface and the finished surface around the electrical box must be covered to prevent igniting combustible parts like the shiplap. Very seldom is this code section enforced but it could;d prevent from starting a fire in your home.
You’re absolutely right, will have to correct that, thanks!
Looks good. I thought you're supposed to start from the top but seems like it worked fine from the bottom
@@thebarberettez thanks. I'm only doing two laundry room walls. about 60 square ft of the good smelling cedar
You can do it either way it just depends on if you want to have a full piece at the top or not, thanks for the comment
@@thebarberettez I live in a townhome with shared walls built in 1984. Between me and my neighbors is some 2 x 4 s and the cheapest 1/2 inch drywall you can buy. So I want to cover the shared walls with shiplap. Do you have any advice for additional soundproofing? Should I pull the existing drywall on my side and add insulation before shiplap? Can I put some layer of foam in between the existing drywall and the shiplap? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. cheers
I think pulling drywall and all that would be more work than it’s worth. Adding the shiplap will be another layer that will provide soundproofing on top of the existing insulation and sheet rock. The only other way I could think to make it quieter between your townhome and the neighbors would be to build another wall in front of the existing one and add some soundproof insulation to that and then put shiplap on that wall instead of sheet rock.
@@thebarberettez great idea thank you!
How did you cap off the top with the 1x2 if the tongue is exposed on the top board?
The tongue is not exposed on the top board, I just cut it to length depending on how much space I had at the top
May be a stupid question, what size nails did you use with the nailer?
2 inch 16 gauge
Nice video man. Keep up the good work
Thank you very much, glad you liked it
Good video. Thanks for the inside ideas!
Thank you for this video!! Looks super easy, you explained very well. I’ll be doing this to my sons room!! I’m excited 🤗
@@thebarberettez TY!!
You very welcome, I hope your project went well, sorry for the late reply :-)
Looks great ! What length nails did you use?
2 1/2 inch nails and I believe they are 18ga
Love seeing you have a little helper!😊
In Modern Living Room Everyone Using "SoundProof Curtains" That Stops Outside Noise by 80% (25 Db) Tested. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/
Yep, trying to teach them what little I know, lol. Thanks.
Is that a finish nailer or a Brad nailer you’re using. Looks great!
Thanks so much it is a finish nailer
did you use an 18 or 16 gauge nail gun?
18
Did you add anything like Liquid Nails behind the shiplap? Or are 2" brad nails sufficient? Curious because I foresee my wife changing her mind in a few years and wanting me to tear this out.
I just use the nails, otherwise you will destroy your sheet rock behind it and if you change your mind later, you will have to replace your sheet rock to
I watched a couple dozen siplap videos to prepare for my project. You video was the most helpful! Thank you! I do have a question about the top piece of trim. From the comments below, sounds like you cut the top board so the trim would lay flat against the top and wall? I've already installed my shiplap (today) and I'm left with the lip (or tongue... whatever it is called) at the top. Did I mess up?
No, you just have to cut off the excess at the top so that it sits flush on the ceiling and then caulk the top if there is any gap that you don’t want to see
what size guage is your nail gun?
16 ga
thx for video, if my wall is 14 ft long, and the longest piece of board is 12, how do I have them cut? each into 7?
I would stagger them so that you cut one 3 feet one 6 feet, 1 9 feet and 1 full size and then you won’t have lines that match up on the wall
Thanks for the great tips.
Absolutely, I hope they help
You can begin at the top as well to avoid awkward size at the top
Very true, I have tried that before though, and it is a little more difficult to work from the top down
Beautiful, do you know what can I do if it is a steel build.
Probably, just might have to use stronger nails
It looks very nice.
Thank you so much and thanks for watching
How do you decide if you buy 5 1/4 or 8"? Does wider look better if you have higher ceilings?
I think the wider shiplap is supposed to be fancier, yes. So, if you have high ceilings, I would go with the wider planks.
Do you think a 23 g pin nailer would work instead of a brad nailer? Great work btw!
@@thebarberettez sounds good, will give it a shot. Thanks!
As long as the nails are long enough, it probably would
Hello, what model RYOBI air gun are you using please and thanks!
oh geez all set, just found your previous comment
😊
Thank you! I was curious how its nailed. This “nailed it”!
Awesome thanks for the great feedback :-)
Great job!! I'm getting ready to start this project.
Thank you, good luck with yours
Nice video. Where would you recommend getting the same type of shiplap you used? From a lumber yard or a homedepot? Thanks
I got mine at Home Depot
What gauge nails did you use in that nail gun?
In other replies to said 16 gauge? Just wanted to make sure
16 gauge 2 inch
great video love the little helpers!!
Thank you, trying to teach them a few things I know, L O L
Have you considered buying a strong neodimium magnet? - I use that instead of an expensive stud finder or the more "traditional" method of drilling 13 holes next to eachother until you hit wood. The idea of the magnet is you wave it around over the wall and eventually (~10 seconds) you will find a nail or screw which represents the center of your stud. To be on the safe side just move it up or down afterwards to make sure it is indeed a stud (to find another nail/ screw). That is a $5-10 extremely accurate stud finder.
Magnets don’t detect AC though. You wouldn’t want to drive a screw into a potential electrical cable running through a stud. Still around $10. Maybe $15. Always caution on the side of safety when anything electrical is involved!
Never heard of that, thanks for the suggestion, though
Did you paint the shiplap boards?
Yes, we painted them white afterwards
Hilarious. Best shiplap installation video so far! 😁
Awesome, thanks so much
Great video! You did an awesome job explaining it and I appreciate it. I’m going to give this a go!!!!
Awesome good luck
Great vid man, you actually pointed out mistakes you made that the majority of us would as well. Most don't show that valuable info and the for guys like myself who can rebuild just about anything that runs on fuel, but are completely lost when it comes to carpentry/home improvement, your vid was very informative and saved me from making same mistakes.
When it comes to working on cars and outdoor power equipment, I am very methodical and precise, but when it comes to home improvement, I am lost, which is pretty sad, considering my dad finished concrete 43 years, and could build a house from ground up, but I wasn't interested at the time, and he has been gone since 98 so I am basically lost.
Thanks so much, glad it help
So you decided to put a nail in the hidden top, but also on the bottom of the board?
Yeah, just cause I overdue securing things, it’s just how I’m built. But really, it only took a little extra time to fill a few extra holes to know that it was really super secure at the bottom.
Does it matter if you install from top or bottom first? And if it is new construction, do you think it is okay to skip drywall and nail directly to the studs?
No, it’s totally your preference on whether you want to install from the bottom up or from the top down, as far as not using drywall you could, but it might make your house more echoey, and not a soundproof, I think she rock helps out a bit
Can you hang pictures on the actual ship lap itself?
Yes, you absolutely could, having said that it depends on how you nail your shiplap. For example, if you are nailing your shiplap into all of the studs, then they should be pretty sturdy for hanging pictures on, but within reason. I wouldn’t suggest hanging something more than maybe 30 to 40 pounds on it though unless you know hit a stud behind the shiplap
What size nails?
18 gauge finish nails, brand is Porter Cable
Do you wood fill the nail holes? or do you set the nailer to hit flush
Wood filler all the way
Looks great thanks for the tips. I’m building a tiny house for my mother In law and she wants shiplap walls. This vid helps thanks
Very welcome, glad it helped
What Nailer from Ryobi did you use?
@@thebarberettez To build on this: Can you edit the video description to include all the tools you used, the details of the board sizes, and anything else you think would be helpful. Literally going to buy the same tools you are using if I can figure out what they are.
The 16 gauge nailer
Good job on showing your mistakes I like when people show they are human I really enjoyed the video.
Thanks so much, I agree, don’t love watching videos of people who act like they never make mistakes
How did you join where the walls meet? Did you cut a 45 on each or did you butt one up against the wall, and then butt the joining one up against the board?
Barberettez thank you.
Yep, I just butted one all the way up to the end, and then butted the other up to it
Nice I’m doing this. Thanks for sharing 👍🏿
My pleasure, I hope it helps
Can you link that gun?
It’s a Ryobi 16 gauge nail gun. I got it at Home Depot and believe they still sell them there.
I've got a tip for you ...nail thru the tongue so the nails won't show.
@@thebarberettez Nail one in the tongue and the other at the bottom. Half the nail holes to fill.
hahahaha thank u...
,
What is the tongue?
The tongue is the part of the joint that sticks out. Look up tongue and groove joint you'll see.@@arlemolina3035
Where I can get the shiplap?
I got mine at Home Depot
Why did you keep measuring after adding a piece? Was it just to ensure the same length?
Because my walls weren’t plum and each one of them was coming off a quarter inch off or an 8th inch off so I wanted to make sure they were all even on the one end
Did u add the trim 1by 2 after you were done with shiplap ?
Yes, I did
And if you’re going to do an entire wall in Shiplap, start at the top and work your way down, that way you bury your cut at the bottom where it’s less visible.
👍🏻
Why are you guys measuring every few boards? Also do the brad nails have to go into studs or can you do drywall at an angle.
@@thebarberettez so I have a newer house in 24-in studs. Is that still okay to put this up?
@@thebarberettez it makes sense. Do you recommend starting at the top or the bottom? Obviously things are probably not going to line up exactly so you're going to have to cut either the top piece in half or the bottom piece to fit.
Because my wall was not plum, and I wanted all the pieces to line up on the left side and I was getting different measurements. If you don’t go into studs, there’s a better chance of it coming loose and falling off.
Why would you face nail versus nailing down through the tongue? It would make it cleaner and make the nails concealed
Much easier to only nail on the top, down at an angle through the tongue, bottom is held by the tongue and groove. No exposed nail holes, no putty or finish paint . My whole basement is tongue and groove shiplap. Not a single filled hole.
Barberettez took my baseboard off, and spaced them 1/4 off the floor. Face nailed along the bottom of the floor (which would be covered up after with baseboard), then nailed diagonally down in the tongue. All boards after that, sit the groove down on the tongue and again nail that row in the tongue. All ties together with no exposed nails.
Barberettez done
Barberettez AH! I just realized you have true cut shiplap, not tongue and groove. The shiplap you have is actually a rabbet, not tongue and groove. (Confused me cause you said tongue and groove at the beginning)
Yep, figured that out later and completed the project doing that
Awesome! Great points and advice! I love all the shiplap!!
Thank you very much
With your jigsaw, tape off right next to the pencil lines so when you cut you won’t chip off those small pieces.
Great tip. Thanks.
curious what brand of shiplap you used and did you paint it? what about the 1x2? was that pre-painted? thanks. looks great. going to do this instead of drywall on our remodel
I don’t remember the brand, all of it was primed, including the one by two. Thank you.
It looks great:) tfs:)
Thanks very much, I hope this video helped you
Great job
Thanks so much 😊
Just a question, how did you end the top piece? you used tongue and groove correct? Did you have to cut off the tongue part to set the 1x2 on top? Thank, GREAT video!! Looks great also!!!
We are almost done with our wall. 18 feet long by 12 feet 2 inches tall. Our shiplap boards are a little over 7 inches wide. My wife laid it all out on AutoCAD first and just to double check, we sacrificed one 12' board by cutting it into 4 inches pieces. We stacked these up and tacked them to the wall to see how we would end at the top. The top board would have been skinny, which would have looked odd. So, we cut the bottom boards skinny and worked up to a mostly full board at the top. We could have started at the top with a full board and worked down, but since we were new to this we thought it would be easier to get the hang of it standing on the ground rather than twelve feet in the air.
Roger Baker good tip on avoid skinny pieces!
Thanks very much for the nice words. I just cut the piece, the same size as the space that was left over and then caulked any cracks if necessary.
Heaps cheaper in US here in Australia it's $12 for a 2metre piece
That’s horrible, all the prices on materials have gone up insanely haven’t they?
Having a hard time deciding if I should leave my baseboards or not. Also one thing I hate about my house is that ALL of the trim pieces and doors are just a bit off white so I feel like I can’t leave the shiplap white bc it should look “wrong” or “off”. Thoughts on those things?
I can’t paint the whole house trim. It’s EVERYWHERE.
I hate removing and replacing baseboard, you might consider painting in a different color than white
Can you please link the nail gun? Thank you
It’s the Ryobi 16 gauge nailer at Home Depot, they still sell it there
Crazy how those same shiplap boards are now $17.94!! Insane how pretty much all building materials have gone up sooo much
I know, it IS crazy!
Helpful video. Thanks.
My pleasure glad it helped you
What's the best way to join these when your working on longer walls without showing the seams?
Be sure to stagger each row. It looks the best.
It's probably easier to just show the seems. It's a good look as long as they are uniform width and the boards are cut straight. Our wall is 18 feet wide. We bought 12 foot boards. We came up with a layout, starting from the right, the first row begins with an 11 foot board, next row behind with a 7 footer, third row begins with a 3 foooter. That way, we had very little waste. For example, first row is 11' board, 7' board. 2nd row is 7' board, 11' board. Third row is 3' board, 12' board, 3' board. Then repeat. So, our only waste is where we cut a foot off the 12' boards to make an 11' board.
By Long pieces or join the Mastad if you can, that way you can nail the two ends into the stud, and it will keep them from popping off the wall
What type of nail gun did you use?
Ryobi 16 gauge nailer
If only shiplap was still that cheap! Haha. It's about double that now for the exact same stuff at HD.
Right?! What happened to material prices! They went through the roof!
I have a window with bull-nose edges on the wall I want to apply shiplap. How would you handle that? Also, If the cieling is not flush, how to avoid a space? One more thing, I noticed in the fast part of video, you measured the length of the board each time you put one up. Why? I would think just a check with a leveler would be good. BTW...my wife will be installing.
Not sure about the bullnose, I’d have to see it, if the ceilings not flush, you just cut the piece to fit what space is left and caulk if necessary. I measured each time because my wall was not plumb so I was getting different lengths and I wanted them to all line up on the one side.
Thanks! Very helpful. Looks awesome!!!
Thanks so much
I love those floors! Do you happen to know what are those floors? Like the name the brand and where you got them?
I’m sorry, I can’t remember
Hello! I am planning to do the exact same thing to one of my walls! It’ll be my first project ever using power tools, which is very intimidating. I really appreciate your video. I had a question, my wall is 10 feet long with a window in the middle, would you recommend I purchase the 12 foot and cut off 2 feet and use the scraps around the window or use 8 foot and use scraps all around? I don’t know if I’m making sense 😟. Also, do I need to do anything extra to make sure I can put the outlet back on after the shiplap is on?
Thank you for any help you can provide me!!
Barberettez thank you for taking the time and giving me such a thorough response!! I think I will do the same as you and go with the 12 foot boards to avoid the lines.
The window trim does make sense because I have been watching SO MANY VIDEOS! The only issue is that it’s a bullnose window, but I think I know how to get around that issue.
Hopefully it works out. My order is once again delayed, but I’ll keep watching videos to feel a little bit more comfortable.
Barberettez thank you! Last question, how did you make sure the screw from the outlet reached once the shiplap was on? If I purchase a longer screw, will it work? Are all outlet screws universal size? I’m sorry for the stupid questions, again, I’m a COMPLETE beginner!
Barberettez ok, perfect!!! Again, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and helping me out!! It truly means a LOT!
Stay safe!
@@janeth6820 I bought longer screws from Lowe's in the electrical department. They had indented sections down the screws so you could cut them to length. I had a small bolt cutters that I used to snip mine to the appropriate length.
I wouldn’t use scraps on the window I think it would look pieced together and not very good, so I would just buy the 12 feet and cut them the length of the basically they need to fill taking into account the whole in the window, I hope that makes sense
Great job!What size nails did you use?
16 gauge
Awesome video. Don’t know if you remember me from Macon ga
@@thebarberettez yes from the church. My mom is Vickie and dad Wayne. I think it was your brother or cousin that lived with y’all for a little while
Thanks, yeah, I remember you
Your suppose to nail the top lip which is then hidden by next piece. No holes to patch except for the last piece.
It’s not T&G it’s ship”lap”
Thanks for the advice, I realize that afterward