Nice job, but you forgot to add a connector on the junction box where you have your connection. When you enter your existing wires thought the hole you need to make sure you have a connector.
@@tmoney4698 if you dont put a clamp on the hole or insulator, where the wires come through the side of the box, is like a knife and can cut through t the insulation on the wires and and short them out or cause a fire. This would never pass and inspection , and is not in code.
@@ginz4924 Cable clamp connectors for metal boxes, or plastic knockout non-metallic push-in connectors, these are really cheap and available at every box store, hardware store, online store, etc
Correct, it is more of a plastic sheath that sits in the hole and clamps on the wires. They protect the wire from sharp edges and also make sure there is no tension on the wires. These should come in the box. If not then these are cheap lights and are lower prices for a reason. Also if you are not skilled with a drywall knife, best to use a properly matched hole saw. You can get economical ones from Harbor Freight.
Long live UA-cam. I can live without Facebook, Instagram and other platform but not UA-cam. I learned so much from the video posted on UA-cam. Now I can fix most of things at home by myself and don't need handy man at all.
Just installed one of 4 just now following this video. Very easy. Took me about an hour and a half to do it. But the next ones should be fairly quick now. Thanks a lot man.
The fact that your camera was close to the project for us to see EVERYTHING just as if we were there is a plus. As a do-it-yourself guy as you, it is important to see what's being done. Many times I've watched videos that could be great if they didn't block the camera with the back of the hand or poor audio or lighting. Great job. Subscribed.
Very neat lights. I think the idea is genius. Very good video. Easy to understand. I could use one of those lights. As a non pro that you say you are, the presentation was excellent. I want to try that job but like all houses,there are differences and not 100% sure it will work. Great video, I reckon it was!
It might be a good idea to put a connector in that box opening. The wires can be cut through on the metal edge of that box, causing problems. It will also clamp down on the cable holding it in place, and preventing the conductors getting yanked out accidentally.
The problem with these light is they work like spot lights, they don't spreed outwards lighting the whole room or reflecting light off the ceiling hence you needing 6 of them.
I have done this upgrade in a few bathrooms halls, laundry room etc. You can usually bend the box our of the way and find the joist or stud first. I prefer to cut the hole so the light isn’t sitting on the joist if possible. A 4” pot light will fit right into the old box hole maybe a tiny trim. Plenty of light for a smaller area. A little caulking with fix that area that’s a bit overcut. Light looks great and thanks for the video
Most details I’ve watched so far...great job and thank you 🙏 I’m going to attempt my first one in a bath I’m remodeling!! I feel like out of about 7 videos I’ve watched you gave the simplest explanation. ☺️
I appreciate the feedback! And I am glad that it was helpful. Good luck with remodeling your bathroom...there might be a video in the future about one of my bathroom projects ;)
Add Connector for Sure, if you have no Template, I like to find a Can, Plastic Bowl, Pot, the same size, then trace out. If Bowl is a little small, say by an 1/8", just go an 1/8" around your circle.
@@TomSmith-sr2br - “Use Twin Screw Non-Metallic Cable Clamp Connectors to join non-metallic sheathed cable and flexible cord to steel outlet boxes or other metal enclosures. A reversible locknut cuts through protective coatings on boxes and enclosures to preserve grounding. This connector meets UL and CSA requirements. Connect non-metallic sheathed cable and flexible cord to steel outlet boxes or other metal enclosures.”
@@glockman9c Yes and they where called ROMEX connectors before they gave a new fancy name. BTW, i have 25 years as an electrical engineer, go pound salt you punk .
Hi watched your install and loved it! Thanks! I'm about to change out my lights ! Thank You Thank You your video was great with use of 1 hand. Awesome! 👍🏽
Make sure you add the strain relief connector (plastic or metal) to the knockout hole before you insert power into the box. Video as shown could create a fire hazard, an electrocution hazard, or short out the light.
You are lucky that this was quite simple for you. I decided to replace an existing light and ran into the following hurdles which others might want to consider first. 1) The fixture had MANY wires coming into it because it was originally wired for a bathroom fan (it has an extra red wire 14/3 setup). It also had wires going out to the next fixture so all in all, 10 wire including the copper ones! 2) The junction box was not only screwed to the joist but had a flange above the box with teeth and a nail. I had to use a hacksaw blade to get it out. 3) The romex could not be pulled out of the hole at all so not enough extra wire to put the new junction box back. 4) The ground wires were very short (they had been connected to the original box). I put everything back the next day!
I am sorry that this project turned into such an ordeal for you…unfortunately sometimes you never know what lies behind some drywall or plaster until you’ve gone too far to turn back.
Once you install the first light, if you had others, can you just connect new wire from that first light to the next one and tie the other lights together like in a series or do each light need their own power?
I’ve watched a few videos on this light installation and most of the non-electricians failed to put a knock out connector on the incoming cable on that metal box. I’m not an electrician either but my father-in-law was and I did a few projects with him and that never seems like a good idea after watching and helping him. Secure that incoming cable on the outside of the sheath and not on the individual wires.
Thank you for your comment, and for watching the video! I actually recently made a video covering adding the Romex/knock out connectors on the channel as well!
Thanks for the demo. It looks like something I could do without calling a handyman that will charge at least $50 to install. I will come back to this video to let u know if I was able to do it myself. 🤞🤞🤞
Needs a clamp or something to keep the wire off the edge of the metal box and the lights will only use like .2 amps so not a problem but with those connectors I would put the power and the load as close as possible I'm sure they are rated for like 20 amps but still
Being able to change a light bulb and just the light bulb when the light goes out is genius beyond these new led recessed lights (which seem to not last as long as the old incandescents). And, yes, you can buy a led bulb.
I have the same thing in my walking closet. I was wondering could I hook up 3 of those, on the same wire??? SINCERELY The man that's trying to build-up my credit score from Indianapolis 🇺🇲
So I am going to caveat my answer by saying I am not an electrician… It will depend on what else you have on the circuit. If just your lights and your plugs are on the same circuit, you will probably be fine. When I say “circuit” I am referring to when you flip the breaker off, what loses power. I will say that I have installed 4 of these in a bedroom on the same circuit as the rooms’ plugs and everything has been fine. LED lights in general have low electrical load. Have fun buying wire if you go forward with your project…I bought 15’ of 12/3 wire yesterday and it was around $45…
Almost all home wiring for light fixtures are 14 AWG or thicker, for the time when light bulbs actually consumed 60/75/100W EACH (or for ceiling fan and what not)! Even the brighter versions of these recessed "pancake" LED lights don't consume more than 20 odd watts. So daisy-chaining a bunch of these is just fine. Think of 3 pancake LED lights as three 12W LED bulbs. That's less power than even a single 60W incandescent bulb. I replaced a single bulb socket in the garage with three of these pancake lights, with good separation among them. The hard part was fishing the wires to the new holes, as they're fairly far apart. It should be much easier in a walk-in closet... except, if you have insulation on top, fishing wire can get a bit hairy. If you have attic access, it might be easier to do it from the top. Heck, maybe you're planning to put them very close to each other, in which case you can just shove the wires from one hole to another with just your arm. LOL Note on the wire gauge. Thicker wire is always safe (even if it's waste of money), but *never* go thinner than the circuit breaker rating for that circuit. So if the circuit breaker is 20A rated for that circuit, you have to use 12 AWG or thicker. You can't use 14 AWG, even if you only plan to pull 10 watts from it. And so on. Do not think to cheat by replacing the circuit breaker with 15A version because someone in the future might put a 20A breaker back on, seeing the 12 AWG wire coming out of the box. ALL of the wires for that circuit must be rated for the circuit breaker in use.
I just bought house which has same this new fixture, but problem is they have yellow light, and i want to replace with white light( day light). Its very tight. My question is how to remove this new light fixture without breaking it
Nice work. I'm going to do the same with several boob lights around my house. I may try a 6 inch hole saw. Did you have some kind of reservation about that?
I did not...only that I was cheap and sometimes choose to do things the hard way lol. In all seriousness, as long as you are sure you won’t cut through the power line with it, you should be good to go. Good luck!
I see others have stated this, already but, just to try to make sure the point gets across: STRAIN RELIEF!!!! You MUST put the Romex through a strain relief cable clamp to ensure the wire doesn't pull loose from the connections. Also, a strain relief cable clamp protects the Romex from being sliced by the sharp edges of the opening in the box. These are VERY important so as to eliminate (or, at the very least, greatly reduce) the danger of a short causing a fire.
Not to pick at you. But code must have a wire connector to hold feed into your j-box. This is also fire protection. But other than that. Nice diy project.
I was half asleep last night when I had sent you that message. I should’ve explained it a little better. You’re doing a great job and I highly respect people like yourself who tackle jobs like this on their own. They’re not afraid to get out do something to get their hands dirty. I have worked around electricity for several years. The two reasons the wire goes into the J box It needs to be clamped. I noticed in the video you said it was under a staircase. Wires tend to vibrate and if the box is not secured and it is just dangling that is more of a reason why the wires need to be clamped to the J box. Plus the activity on the stairs is going to create vibration for the wires. I have had employees in the past that are certified electricians show up on a job site dressed like it’s casual Friday. anyway keep up the good work man and keep doing those DIY projects. It saves you a ton of money.
Quick question man - how did you end up removing the nailed box? Mine is nailed pretty good and I have been stuck for an hour now. Don’t want to go crazy with the hammer. Let me know. Thanks! Oh, and great video. Like that other commentor said, being that up close is definitely a huge plus! 👍
It should be rated "IC" if it comes in contact with insulation. Most I've seen do, but it will be indicated on the box and probably the fixture itself.
Use the remaining open ports and daisy chain the lights. If you noticed he had two open, there are other videos on UA-cam that will show you how to do that.
So I am not sponsored by them (yet) but I do really like the Ensenior light brand…I have installed ~10 so far in my house, and I plan to install 8 more.
@@Therealethanparker do you know what's the life span of them? I am also guessing when they die you just replace the whole thing is not like a light bulb?
You forgot the simplest aspect and yet the most important one, you need a wire clamp/bushing inside the metal junction box to protect the wire, it's an NEC code requirement and could prevent a fire that burns down your house!
Really, I wouldn’t want that in my house. Wires into a junction box with no clamp and the junction box is just hanging in the wall. Fire waiting to happen. Either do the right way or hire a professional.
I have a light like the one you replaced in the middle of my room but I want to add four of the LED lights one on each corner of my room well not completely on the corner but near it how can I do that lool
Thanks for the question, and if I am not understanding your question correctly, please let me know. If the lights you are installing have the push connectors, you should not need a “wire nut” to make the connection...the push connector should be sufficient (based on my limited understanding of electricity).
@@Therealethanparker loomex connectors are what they are called. www.amazon.com/Morris-Products-21764-Non-Metallic-Connector/dp/B005GDG7YO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=romex+connector&qid=1622472157&sprefix=loomex&sr=8-5
As far as the process necessary this is good. However, hole still visible after mounting and method of enlarging the hole is an embarassment to hacks everywhere
Brother.... Thank you for the comic relief... If nothing else, I have at least learned I'm not the only idiot doing diy shit... No offense intended... Truly though, pretty funny, regular dude doing diy shiza... Keep up the good work!
Ugh…When I see that wire goin into the knockout with: A) No connector, B) the sheathing not even overlapping the KO edge, so the hot, neutral, and ground ALL are resting on the KO metal edge, I cringe. The LEAST you could have done, if you just weren’t gonna use a connector, was let the sheathing protect the conductors.
I am guessing that there must have been something you liked about the video to watch it and comment on it (twice). I won't argue about the observation that you made, and I believe I have had a comment pinned on this video for some time that addresses your observation.
@@Therealethanparker Relax….Yea guilty of watching bad how to videos when I can’t sleep and commenting and forgetting. I kinda have a thing with bad “how to” videos for whatever reason. The point is still the point tho. To me, if you make a video showing people “This is how you do this,” then it’s your responsibility to actually know yourself. That, or name the video “Let’s figure this out together.” It’s not really a small thing either. It’s the type of basic thing I’ve seen an inspector get so mad about that he went through EVRYTHING to find even the slightest slip. It’s a sign that you don’t do professional work and/or don’t have the knowledge (not you, this is what the inspector now assumes). People have a low bar on here that combines with assumption. When someone talks to a camera and shows them how to do a project, the average person will fairly assume that this is the right way to do it. I just have a pet peeve with these because I see SO many videos with 5 code violations in each one that has 75 comments of “Nice Work” or “You’ve shown me how to do this so I’m gonna tackle this now.” Know why you know, know why you don’t. Won’t see me any car mechanic videos from me, if you get me
@@mattkrywyj5184 Totally agree with you Matt. Not only is doing an unsafe not to code job, but he's encouraging others. Sad thing is, it doesn't take that much more effort to do it right.
Yeah, he needs a romex connector on that box, very unsafe... Read the NEC code book before doing your own electric work for you and your families safety.
Recess your lighting if u want to be basic…. Life tip people shit gets played out fast and boring when everyone takes the same route that applies to everything
Nice job, but you forgot to add a connector on the junction box where you have your connection. When you enter your existing wires thought the hole you need to make sure you have a connector.
Why?
@@tmoney4698 if you dont put a clamp on the hole or insulator, where the wires come through the side of the box, is like a knife and can cut through t the insulation on the wires and and short them out or cause a fire. This would never pass and inspection , and is not in code.
What is a connector? It did not come up in the google search. What is full name? Thanks
@@ginz4924 Cable clamp connectors for metal boxes, or plastic knockout non-metallic push-in connectors, these are really cheap and available at every box store, hardware store, online store, etc
Correct, it is more of a plastic sheath that sits in the hole and clamps on the wires. They protect the wire from sharp edges and also make sure there is no tension on the wires. These should come in the box. If not then these are cheap lights and are lower prices for a reason. Also if you are not skilled with a drywall knife, best to use a properly matched hole saw. You can get economical ones from Harbor Freight.
Long live UA-cam. I can live without Facebook, Instagram and other platform but not UA-cam. I learned so much from the video posted on UA-cam. Now I can fix most of things at home by myself and don't need handy man at all.
Just installed one of 4 just now following this video. Very easy. Took me about an hour and a half to do it. But the next ones should be fairly quick now. Thanks a lot man.
The fact that your camera was close to the project for us to see EVERYTHING just as if we were there is a plus. As a do-it-yourself guy as you, it is important to see what's being done. Many times I've watched videos that could be great if they didn't block the camera with the back of the hand or poor audio or lighting. Great job. Subscribed.
Thank you for the feedback, and for subscribing!
Very neat lights. I think the idea is genius. Very good video. Easy to understand. I could use one of those lights. As a non pro that you say you are, the presentation was excellent. I want to try that job but like all houses,there are differences and not 100% sure it will work. Great video, I reckon it was!
Thank you. Im going to give this a go .. i just cant pay an electrician to come in for 2-3 hundreds bucks !! To do just one light..🤷♀️
It might be a good idea to put a connector in that box opening. The wires can be cut through on the metal edge of that box, causing problems. It will also clamp down on the cable holding it in place, and preventing the conductors getting yanked out accidentally.
Yeah I’m an electrician and that set alarms off in my head
It’s romex, you can’t use a connector , just use a plastic bushing 👍
@@beauwoodbury4486 ME TOO! That was the FIRST thing I saw! Over time that's a possible fire waiting to happen! Hope he fixes that.
These LED lights are amazing! I remodel my entire garage and added 6 of them… looks amazing… easy clicking the wires, etc…
The problem with these light is they work like spot lights, they don't spreed outwards lighting the whole room or reflecting light off the ceiling hence you needing 6 of them.
Thank you for saying how long that took! That is an awesome detail that lots of DIY UA-camrs do not they include! So thank you very useful
I have done this upgrade in a few bathrooms halls, laundry room etc. You can usually bend the box our of the way and find the joist or stud first. I prefer to cut the hole so the light isn’t sitting on the joist if possible. A 4” pot light will fit right into the old box hole maybe a tiny trim. Plenty of light for a smaller area.
A little caulking with fix that area that’s a bit overcut.
Light looks great and thanks for the video
Most details I’ve watched so far...great job and thank you 🙏 I’m going to attempt my first one in a bath I’m remodeling!! I feel like out of about 7 videos I’ve watched you gave the simplest explanation. ☺️
I appreciate the feedback! And I am glad that it was helpful.
Good luck with remodeling your bathroom...there might be a video in the future about one of my bathroom projects ;)
@@Therealethanparker ooo excellent
Thanks, helped a lot. I plan on replacing all those old 8008 lights 😅
thank you. You did very well especially for not being an electrician : )
This video helped me out mid way thru my project lol thank you
Nice video. Headed to amazon to purchase these. Thanks for the motivation!
Add Connector for Sure, if you have no Template, I like to find a Can, Plastic Bowl, Pot, the same size, then trace out. If Bowl is a little small, say by an 1/8", just go an 1/8" around your circle.
Great job and may God continue to Bless you and your 👪 🙏👌👍
nice work man. i replace the light in two room 4 lights in each room in like 3 hours
Thank you greatly appreciate your video!
You NEED to use a clamp connector where the wires enter the box.
It's call a romex connector not a clamp connector.
@@TomSmith-sr2br - cool. You are WRONG. Before correcting someone, know what you are talking about.
@@TomSmith-sr2br - “Use Twin Screw Non-Metallic Cable Clamp Connectors to join non-metallic sheathed cable and flexible cord to steel outlet boxes or other metal enclosures. A reversible locknut cuts through protective coatings on boxes and enclosures to preserve grounding. This connector meets UL and CSA requirements.
Connect non-metallic sheathed cable and flexible cord to steel outlet boxes or other metal enclosures.”
@@glockman9c Yes and they where called ROMEX connectors before they gave a new fancy name. BTW, i have 25 years as an electrical engineer, go pound salt you punk .
Hi watched your install and loved it! Thanks! I'm about to change out my lights ! Thank You Thank You your video was great with use of 1 hand. Awesome! 👍🏽
Good luck! Thanks for watching!
Make sure you add the strain relief connector (plastic or metal) to the knockout hole before you insert power into the box. Video as shown could create a fire hazard, an electrocution hazard, or short out the light.
You are lucky that this was quite simple for you. I decided to replace an existing light and ran into the following hurdles which others might want to consider first.
1) The fixture had MANY wires coming into it because it was originally wired for a bathroom fan (it has an extra red wire 14/3 setup). It also had wires going out to the next fixture so all in all, 10 wire including the copper ones!
2) The junction box was not only screwed to the joist but had a flange above the box with teeth and a nail. I had to use a hacksaw blade to get it out.
3) The romex could not be pulled out of the hole at all so not enough extra wire to put the new junction box back.
4) The ground wires were very short (they had been connected to the original box).
I put everything back the next day!
I am sorry that this project turned into such an ordeal for you…unfortunately sometimes you never know what lies behind some drywall or plaster until you’ve gone too far to turn back.
How about using an oscillating saw to cut the box and use a 4 inch light?
Great job I’m going to do the same at my house thank you. 😊🏡
Thank you so much for this great effort with one hand. Informative. Good job
Nicely done.
A home saw would make your cutting easier. For 6” lights you could use a 6.25” hole saw. Also what others said, use a connector.
For this brand of lights, you use a 155mm (6.1") hole saw. 6.25" would be too big. I just installed 20 of them.
Once you install the first light, if you had others, can you just connect new wire from that first light to the next one and tie the other lights together like in a series or do each light need their own power?
Does each light need its own box or can you wire all 6 to one box
I’ve watched a few videos on this light installation and most of the non-electricians failed to put a knock out connector on the incoming cable on that metal box. I’m not an electrician either but my father-in-law was and I did a few projects with him and that never seems like a good idea after watching and helping him.
Secure that incoming cable on the outside of the sheath and not on the individual wires.
Thank you for your comment, and for watching the video! I actually recently made a video covering adding the Romex/knock out connectors on the channel as well!
Thanks for the demo. It looks like something I could do without calling a handyman that will charge at least $50 to install. I will come back to this video to let u know if I was able to do it myself. 🤞🤞🤞
Sounds good! I’ll be curious to hear how it went!
Needs a clamp or something to keep the wire off the edge of the metal box and the lights will only use like .2 amps so not a problem but with those connectors I would put the power and the load as close as possible I'm sure they are rated for like 20 amps but still
Yeah but when you say boob light everyone knows what you are talking about. Lol. Thank you. This video is extremely helpful.
Is it safe to put it if there's insulation around the box?
Yes the thing can be like an 8B- Box nailed to the stud. Don’t you see the holes on the back of the thing?
Good teacher 💯🫡. 🔥🔥
If I am running multiple lights in series, can I just stick the "line out" into the same smart connector? Assume so but want to make sure.
Yes. They typically have 4 port connectors, one used by the light and one used by the line/power wire, leaving two ports for downstream.
Being able to change a light bulb and just the light bulb when the light goes out is genius beyond these new led recessed lights (which seem to not last as long as the old incandescents). And, yes, you can buy a led bulb.
ok boomer
That's what i did with mine, just changed the bulb and called it day.
I have the same thing in my walking closet. I was wondering could I hook up 3 of those, on the same wire??? SINCERELY
The man that's trying to build-up my credit score from Indianapolis 🇺🇲
So I am going to caveat my answer by saying I am not an electrician…
It will depend on what else you have on the circuit. If just your lights and your plugs are on the same circuit, you will probably be fine. When I say “circuit” I am referring to when you flip the breaker off, what loses power.
I will say that I have installed 4 of these in a bedroom on the same circuit as the rooms’ plugs and everything has been fine. LED lights in general have low electrical load.
Have fun buying wire if you go forward with your project…I bought 15’ of 12/3 wire yesterday and it was around $45…
Almost all home wiring for light fixtures are 14 AWG or thicker, for the time when light bulbs actually consumed 60/75/100W EACH (or for ceiling fan and what not)!
Even the brighter versions of these recessed "pancake" LED lights don't consume more than 20 odd watts. So daisy-chaining a bunch of these is just fine. Think of 3 pancake LED lights as three 12W LED bulbs. That's less power than even a single 60W incandescent bulb.
I replaced a single bulb socket in the garage with three of these pancake lights, with good separation among them. The hard part was fishing the wires to the new holes, as they're fairly far apart. It should be much easier in a walk-in closet... except, if you have insulation on top, fishing wire can get a bit hairy. If you have attic access, it might be easier to do it from the top. Heck, maybe you're planning to put them very close to each other, in which case you can just shove the wires from one hole to another with just your arm. LOL
Note on the wire gauge. Thicker wire is always safe (even if it's waste of money), but *never* go thinner than the circuit breaker rating for that circuit. So if the circuit breaker is 20A rated for that circuit, you have to use 12 AWG or thicker. You can't use 14 AWG, even if you only plan to pull 10 watts from it. And so on. Do not think to cheat by replacing the circuit breaker with 15A version because someone in the future might put a 20A breaker back on, seeing the 12 AWG wire coming out of the box. ALL of the wires for that circuit must be rated for the circuit breaker in use.
did the ground wire go thru the hole? it looks like only black and white wires went through the hole
I did put the ground into one of the push connectors. It was a little tighter than the others, but it did “click” in
Good job
I just bought house which has same this new fixture, but problem is they have yellow light, and i want to replace with white light( day light). Its very tight. My question is how to remove this new light fixture without breaking it
Nice work. I'm going to do the same with several boob lights around my house. I may try a 6 inch hole saw. Did you have some kind of reservation about that?
I did not...only that I was cheap and sometimes choose to do things the hard way lol.
In all seriousness, as long as you are sure you won’t cut through the power line with it, you should be good to go.
Good luck!
Do you know if these lights can work with a three way switch?
I have same setup. Trying to find a video on how to wire for 3 way. Biggest concern is getting all the wires in the box
I see others have stated this, already but, just to try to make sure the point gets across: STRAIN RELIEF!!!! You MUST put the Romex through a strain relief cable clamp to ensure the wire doesn't pull loose from the connections. Also, a strain relief cable clamp protects the Romex from being sliced by the sharp edges of the opening in the box. These are VERY important so as to eliminate (or, at the very least, greatly reduce) the danger of a short causing a fire.
It's called a ROMEX connector not a strain relief. 2 different things.
Brilliant work there!
YOU'RE VERY GOOD HANDY
Where's the connectors to the junction box? One of the first thing I noticed.
This is great!!
If and when one of those goes out. How do you take them back out?
Just grab around the edges, pull down a bit, and push one spring clip up so it clears the drywall opening.
Not to pick at you. But code must have a wire connector to hold feed into your j-box. This is also fire protection. But other than that. Nice diy project.
Thank you for letting me know...and you gave the correction in a very nice way!
I was half asleep last night when I had sent you that message. I should’ve explained it a little better. You’re doing a great job and I highly respect people like yourself who tackle jobs like this on their own. They’re not afraid to get out do something to get their hands dirty. I have worked around electricity for several years. The two reasons the wire goes into the J box It needs to be clamped. I noticed in the video you said it was under a staircase. Wires tend to vibrate and if the box is not secured and it is just dangling that is more of a reason why the wires need to be clamped to the J box. Plus the activity on the stairs is going to create vibration for the wires. I have had employees in the past that are certified electricians show up on a job site dressed like it’s casual Friday. anyway keep up the good work man and keep doing those DIY projects. It saves you a ton of money.
Thanks for watching, and I really do appreciate the advice!
There are 2-piece metal ones that can be added without having to redo the wiring.
Quick question man - how did you end up removing the nailed box? Mine is nailed pretty good and I have been stuck for an hour now. Don’t want to go crazy with the hammer. Let me know. Thanks! Oh, and great video. Like that other commentor said, being that up close is definitely a huge plus! 👍
Can you use a dimmable switch on these lights.
Yes, depending on what you buy. I’ve used the same brand and they are dimmable. Check the specs or at least the description.
Did you use romex connector?
Nope, he didn't.
Great instructional video. Best one I've seen so far explaining from start to finsh!!!
you need a video on how to remove the lights once they are in to change the bulb
Great video. Thank you for the video
Are those 6 inch lights?
what do you do if you have a concrete ceiling
Don't forget to put your knockout washers on
🤣🤣🤣 that mental moment @ 8:21
thank you, if you can do it with one hand, i have 2 sure i will make it
Anyone know if they are safe to use if insulation is packed in the ceiling?
It should be rated "IC" if it comes in contact with insulation. Most I've seen do, but it will be indicated on the box and probably the fixture itself.
Thank you friend
How do you connect more than one light to one switch?
Use the remaining open ports and daisy chain the lights. If you noticed he had two open, there are other videos on UA-cam that will show you how to do that.
Great video. I have several to replace in my basement. Do you recommend one brand over another? Feel free to type with both hands:)
So I am not sponsored by them (yet) but I do really like the Ensenior light brand…I have installed ~10 so far in my house, and I plan to install 8 more.
And let the record show, I did use both hands lol
@@Therealethanparker do you know what's the life span of them? I am also guessing when they die you just replace the whole thing is not like a light bulb?
great video!
thanks man
awesome
You forgot the simplest aspect and yet the most important one, you need a wire clamp/bushing inside the metal junction box to protect the wire, it's an NEC code requirement and could prevent a fire that burns down your house!
Isn’t the thing grounded sufficient to prevent a fire?
Thanks!
pretty good for non electrician
Really, I wouldn’t want that in my house. Wires into a junction box with no clamp and the junction box is just hanging in the wall. Fire waiting to happen. Either do the right way or hire a professional.
I wonder how we lived without GPS and UA-cam 😂
I have a light like the one you replaced in the middle of my room but I want to add four of the LED lights one on each corner of my room well not completely on the corner but near it how can I do that lool
Get some romex & daisy chain them
Should use a plastic connector on where the wire goes into the ballast box to hold the wire in place
Thanks for the question, and if I am not understanding your question correctly, please let me know.
If the lights you are installing have the push connectors, you should not need a “wire nut” to make the connection...the push connector should be sufficient (based on my limited understanding of electricity).
@@Therealethanparker loomex connectors are what they are called. www.amazon.com/Morris-Products-21764-Non-Metallic-Connector/dp/B005GDG7YO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=romex+connector&qid=1622472157&sprefix=loomex&sr=8-5
So those are totally new to me...and I am afraid I don’t have a good answer for those. I am sorry, and I hope you have good luck!
@@Therealethanparker needs them or the older ones with a screw on part. Otherwise, the wire will rub through with time
@@Therealethanparker www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08LV4BQ58/ref=sspa_mw_detail_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSVI1SzlXRTg5MDZTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODkyMjc4MlM2OUo1UjEzWDBSOSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODQ0NDgzMlRHQ0lWRk42ODI0VCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdA==
6 inch or 4?
I installed a 6 inch light, but I believe there are 4 inch lights available as well.
As far as the process necessary this is good. However, hole still visible after mounting and method of enlarging the hole is an embarassment to hacks everywhere
I love that......no tecnic words....BLACK TO BLACK......WHITE TO WHITE......That's all......
And the Romex clamp!!!. Failed/ Unsafe installation.
The junction box is lacking a cable clamp. Pretty sure that’s not to code.
Thanks bro
Hi, I have a 4-inch recessed lighting with 3 color temperatures that need a tester. Are you interested? So sorry to disturb you.
I’m game! Let me know what you need from me.
Nice
Perfect job
Next time you play electrician you should Learn you use a grommet to protect the wire from getting cut from metal knockout.
Need a connector or bushing where the wire comes into the box. Don't demonstrate if you aren't going to follow safe practices!
When you are close to the wire only cut on the in stroke you will be much less likely to cut it
Love them 3 🤣🤣olds
You need to redo and add a connector for safety purposes.
With all these compliments on this crappy job you did I might be considered a God if I make UA-cam videos.
Those are off-brand lights, too. I prefer big box store light fixtures!
Use a romex connector
Brother.... Thank you for the comic relief... If nothing else, I have at least learned I'm not the only idiot doing diy shit... No offense intended... Truly though, pretty funny, regular dude doing diy shiza... Keep up the good work!
No connector? Fire waiting to happen
I heard recessed lightning is out of trend for 2022
Your mustache says you are a licensed electrician.
Or Tony Stark...it could go either way lol
Should have just got the light that works with tje box pretty much same light
Ugh…When I see that wire goin into the knockout with: A) No connector, B) the sheathing not even overlapping the KO edge, so the hot, neutral, and ground ALL are resting on the KO metal edge, I cringe. The LEAST you could have done, if you just weren’t gonna use a connector, was let the sheathing protect the conductors.
I am guessing that there must have been something you liked about the video to watch it and comment on it (twice). I won't argue about the observation that you made, and I believe I have had a comment pinned on this video for some time that addresses your observation.
@@Therealethanparker Relax….Yea guilty of watching bad how to videos when I can’t sleep and commenting and forgetting. I kinda have a thing with bad “how to” videos for whatever reason. The point is still the point tho. To me, if you make a video showing people “This is how you do this,” then it’s your responsibility to actually know yourself. That, or name the video “Let’s figure this out together.” It’s not really a small thing either. It’s the type of basic thing I’ve seen an inspector get so mad about that he went through EVRYTHING to find even the slightest slip. It’s a sign that you don’t do professional work and/or don’t have the knowledge (not you, this is what the inspector now assumes). People have a low bar on here that combines with assumption. When someone talks to a camera and shows them how to do a project, the average person will fairly assume that this is the right way to do it. I just have a pet peeve with these because I see SO many videos with 5 code violations in each one that has 75 comments of “Nice Work” or “You’ve shown me how to do this so I’m gonna tackle this now.” Know why you know, know why you don’t. Won’t see me any car mechanic videos from me, if you get me
@@mattkrywyj5184 Totally agree with you Matt. Not only is doing an unsafe not to code job, but he's encouraging others. Sad thing is, it doesn't take that much more effort to do it right.
They make a can light that works with you light boxes so there is no cutting needed
Yeah, he needs a romex connector on that box, very unsafe... Read the NEC code book before doing your own electric work for you and your families safety.
Why doesn’t the manufacturer provide it with the light kit. Maybe it’s from a country that doesn’t acknowledge National Electric Code, like China!
sucks for me. i wish i could do this but my wife claims to get headaches from LEDS
That is rough…from my experience I never win fights with my wife…
You need a bushing
Recess your lighting if u want to be basic…. Life tip people shit gets played out fast and boring when everyone takes the same route that applies to everything