Update Brian. My upgrade pump and control bold came yesterday. $38. I just got done installing it. I was nervous as a cat on a hot tin roof, but had a degree of confidence I could do it following your instructions. A firm grip on the bearing to slightly twist it out. BTW, my pump had two washers. Used a 5/64 drill to tap out the roll pin and a very large blunt needle to pry the o-rings off. I took the brake spring off for easier access and cleaning. Other than obvious difference in pump cam, there was only very minor difference in control bolt. Ran the saw with pump on Max setting and plenty of (maybe too much) bar oil. Turned pump setting back to E and will test in comming days on some Fir limbs. My 36" Dia. fir is already cut up in 16" rounds and split so I don't have any big wood to test it on yet. Thanks for taking the time to chronicle this upgrade. I'm sure I'll be getting better bar lubrication with my MS362. I hope this helps someone else experiencing insufficient bar oiling.
Mr. William, this is great news. I am glad you did it. As you stated, you can always turn it down. Good job sir and thank you for documenting your experience here. I really appreciate you. His blessings and protection on you sir....
@@Brian2bears I'm glad I ran across your channel. What's a little sad is that the MS362 right out of the box is IMHO is a lesser saw than my 22 YO O36 Pro. I also have a bit of an Axe love too, but can't find any handles like original for my Sager 4.5Lb double bit axes. I made one out of Ash years ago but it was very difficult. Blessings to you my friend.
Thank you sir for educating us all. I also have a 1 year old MS362 with what I believe is insufficient oiling. With everything clean to begin and oil adj. set to max I consistently have 1" of oil remaining in tank. After each cut chain appears dry. It seems to function as it should, but I wish it provided the same amount of oil as my 036Pro. Of all your commenters, I've not seen any mention where they reset their oil Adj. screw ?
Thank you Mr. William. I have this set-up on a 361 and a 460. I personally am not concerned with tanks running out at the same time, I compensate with fill levels. I want the oiler to oil the bar. I mill with the 361 on an edger-type mill with 20 and 24 inch bars. I adjust it from half to 3/4 wide-open. I have occasionally ran a 32" bar with the oiler wide-open and it oils it well. The 460 stays wide open and I run a 28" and 32" bar on it. Again, my goal is to oil the bar. Thank you sir for watching and commenting about your very valid observations....
hay Brian I ran into when ordering the parts or 361 I asked him to look at the 461 parts in question and ordered those: then we saw that there were two parts for both the control bolt and the pump piston so since I have two of the pump assemblies and want to up grade both (one in the saw and one back up) I ordered two of each part cost was $84.00 for all 4 parts so I feel that I should be able to make the oilier work with the 24 cc pump for both the in saw and back up
Good. I am glad you found the parts. I have not had a need for a spare yet even though I have one also. I am thankful for your comments and views and be safe with those saws sir.
@adamszabadi4441 Hi Adam. The control bolt fits but not the pump piston. The operation is the same basically however.... This video shows what the 044/440 pump looks like compared to all the others....thank you for watching and commenting sir..... THE TRUTH ABOUT STIHL OIL PUMPS.. ua-cam.com/video/wI307C3JoUc/v-deo.htmlsi=ZdCNlzqi0JXCbOWt
Hi Mark. Several thoughts on your comment. No to Hyway. Build your stock pump. As to the 462 pump, it uses the same pump as the 382(no typo) and 500i. I have no experience of an unmodified pump body fitting the 400 from the 462. There are external differences at the pick-up interface and possibly elsewhere. Hundreds if not thousands of people have built their stock pumps, you can too...thank you for watching and commenting sir...
Hi Brian, great video. So theres no difference to the pump bodies themselves - only the control screw and piston? I had originally thought the bodies had oil galleries inside that were larger in teh HO model. The 461 manual states that models equipped with the HO model have a small notch 90 degrees to the screwdriver slot on the control screw (it appears as a T shape), is that the case with the HO screw you've got for the 461 here? I ask as the "stud" that prevents the screw from rotating more than a quarter turn has snapped off mine, and as a result I can't work out where the appropriate range is. The T notch is opposite the side of the screw that has been chamferred flat - I think max oil oitput is flat side toward bar tip, notch toward the pistol grip; any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Drew. Yes to everything you have stated. The adjustment slot should be perpendicular to your guide bar for wide-open. Yes all these pump bodies are the same. Thank you for watching and commenting sir.
Wondering if you knew if a pump from a 462 will work in a 400? I know this is an older video but it's worth a shot asking, you see to be more informed on the topic then most I've seen. Thanks
Hi Mason, thank you for watching and commenting...The cross-references say no. The 462/500i oil pump is 1142 640 3200. The outlet is flanged to go inside the crankcase/bar plate. The 400 oil pump outlet is smooth at the crankcase/bar plate interface. There may also be other dimensional problems I am not aware of. A similar question was also asked in the "pinned comment". I am seeing some conflicting information along these lines and caution viewers to be aware. I have several more 400 oil pump videos that are more up to date.ua-cam.com/play/PL4yXbW2Yt6bfMyYX7mzvZDCbVGQKmJxz4.html
Brian. I have a couple of questions. 1.Is the only seal, pump to engine an o-ring ? 2. Does the Cont. bolt orient a specific way before installing the Roll pin ? lastly what Dia. Pin Drift did you use to drive out the pin ? Rain here next several days and I may take mine apart to see exactly how it works. Strange I can't find a parts Diagram of the 461R, but plenty of other models. Jude 1:24-26
Now unto him that is abel to keep you from falling, and to present you faultless before the presence of his glory with exceeding joy...Mr. William, on the orientation of the control bolt, just position it in the general position of disassembly. As for the drift, I have some high quality allen keys in abundance and I also use some high quality picks from PM that are thirty years old...yes sir on the o-ring between the pump body and crankcase..on a personal saw I keep o-rings, pumps, drive gears, etc just in case...Thank you Mr. William for the views and correspondence....
So i bought a regular 462 and had a half wrap handle added because it’s impossible to get the r model now days. It isn’t putting enough oil out for my 28” bear the chain is getting too hot. I have this upgrade on the way as we speak. By this upgrade am I essentially turning the pump into the “ r” model pump or do I need to start by ordering the R model pump and then upgrade it?
Hello Sir. Put the brakes on for a minute. The MS462, C-M, C-M-R and the 500i use the same 1142 640 3200 oil pump. There is no R or HO model. The flow is increased by pushing in a pin next to the adjustment screw allowing you to increase the movement of the adjuster cam/screw. The part numbers listed here will not fit the 462 in any way shape form or fashion. The factory oiler should oil a 28" guide bar very well. Your local dealer should be able to do this if you can't figure it out. Thank you for watching and commenting in a positive way.
Great video. My 362 with 24" bar is oiling properly but the bar seems super dry and gets hot. Just to clarify, are you saying that the 461r full oil pump will be a direct bolt into the ms362 and the control bolt and piston from a 460 will drop right into a 362? You will be my hero if this works.
Hello, How do I find out if my early 362 is a R model? I know some of the later 362 had a adjustable oil pump not mine. Is the R in the Serial number? Thanks for the help
All 362s have an adjustable oil pump. "R" models have a full wrap handlebar, large clutch cover and large felling spikes/dogs. The adjustment cam is on the bottom of the saw on the clutch side. It is only 1/4 turn cam, so don't force anything or you may break it...
@@Brian2bears I looked closer at the saw, and you were rite I found it and adjusted it to full hope it makes a difference I'm looking for. If not I'll upgrade accordingly from your video. Thanks Bud
stihl #1128-647-0602 high output pump gear is the wrong part for my Stihl 362 chainsaw. My pump gear looks like the ones on your bench but this part number does not look like your parts at all???????? Can Brian2bears please help me find the correct part number????
Nomenclature, this is not the oil pump drive gear but the pump piston and control bolt. Having said that, the oil pump drive gear looks like a plastic threaded piece with a heavy wire wrapped around it that drives the pump. I am confident of the part numbers listed that they are correct and still available.ua-cam.com/video/6M1yPBdwX6g/v-deo.html
ya take a paint stick and cut it the same length as the vice jaws clamp the pump in it so the bras part is up at a angle to the right or left about 75 degrees take a long drift punch at put under lip where the casting is cut down and tap with small hammer turn it over and tap on the other side of it, it should move turn it back over and tap on the first side it should move out more and at this point you should be able to remove it
So.. I might have missed it.. The numbers you provide for the parts are the High output 460/1R? This is a huge problem for my saw.. I put the bigger pump that your graph shows 18cc per minute.. and that doesn't even cove it... The stock pump on my 362 is so dry.. You would think it would be recalled... Now, is there a vent in the oil tank that fails as well?? I saw a diagram that says you need a 5mm drift to drive it out? THanks.. Good stuff!
Check the pick up screen and sometimes the pump body becomes clogged. I have not heard of the problem with the breather. I have heard complaints of some 362s not oiling well. Thanks for watching.
I bought the complete oiler from Stihl (H.O.) for the 660. I have never moded a 660 or 880. The link has the part number for the 660. ua-cam.com/video/tw1xr_iecIc/v-deo.html
Hi Brennon, I am afraid not. The 044/MS440 uses different parts and part numbers. Having said that, there is some very solid information found in various online forums. Beyond owning the 044 and replacing the worm gear I have no experience with increasing the flow or volume. Thank you for watching and complimenting in a positive fashion.
Hello again Brian. I couldn't find the pump piston online, so I ordered it and the control bolt from my dealer. Regarding the o-rings on the control bolt, do I use the ones from my original 362 ? And I wish there was a video showing the removal from the saw. I will approach with fear and care, but will trust your details as given. My saw is a (Non Mtronic) and one year old. Isaiah 54:5
Mr. William, yes sir on the o-rings. The hardest part of the process is removing the clutch. LH threads, a piston stop is a must. Here is a link regarding the pump/clutch process. Your 362 will be like this..ua-cam.com/video/HHcKsKTEOqg/v-deo.html
Thank you Brian for the link to your other video. I should have looked at your other video first. The link was very helpful. As for Jack at hotsaws101, I have viewed and received replies from him. A champion sawyer if ever there was one. "Have a blessed day where ever you may be on God's green earth".
I have had oil leaking from behind two separate pumps, my original and a replacement I purchased off eBay. It looks to be seaping around the pumps worm gear. It then travels it's way into the clutch. Any idea why. My saw runs great otherwise.
Brad450 FAM, I have not seen worm gear leaks but rather through the normal flow channels and drainage off the rear of the bar. Unless we are speaking of a rescue saw or one for emergency use, I suggest draining bar oil and fuel. Supposing the pick-up tube and o-ring behind the pump are not the source of course. Thank you for watching and your kind question.
@@Brian2bears I did see it leaking at the end where the tube is pressed into the pump. Had nothing to lose, so I pulled it out and tried putting some loctite on it and pressing in back in. I reinstalled everything and it's sat for a few days and now I see oil all over the bottom of the saw again. This time I will buy a OEM pump to see if it fixes the problem.
@@gregritter377 Use the numbers that I supply in the description and / or in the video with your servicing Stihl dealer. You can also purchase the complete pump.
I am very interested in this upgrade for my 361 so I have a couple questions where did these numbers come from stihl or some one elese and where did you get the parts from www.page or name and phone number please
The part number he has listed is the incorrect part number for a MS362 Pump Gear High Output!!! His part number was supposed to work in the oil pump body of the MS362 but it looks nothing like the original part. Bad information for the part number!!!
STIHL MS 400 42" bar bucking and blocking....ua-cam.com/video/piJ4Nyiyhxc/v-deo.htmlsi=9i1Gv4tXFAySdhnq
Update Brian. My upgrade pump and control bold came yesterday. $38. I just got done installing it. I was nervous as a cat on a hot tin roof, but had a degree of confidence I could do it following your instructions. A firm grip on the bearing to slightly twist it out. BTW, my pump had two washers. Used a 5/64 drill to tap out the roll pin and a very large blunt needle to pry the o-rings off. I took the brake spring off for easier access and cleaning. Other than obvious difference in pump cam, there was only very minor difference in control bolt.
Ran the saw with pump on Max setting and plenty of (maybe too much) bar oil. Turned pump setting back to E and will test in comming days on some Fir limbs. My 36" Dia. fir is already cut up in 16" rounds and split so I don't have any big wood to test it on yet. Thanks for taking the time to chronicle this upgrade. I'm sure I'll be getting better bar lubrication with my MS362. I hope this helps someone else experiencing insufficient bar oiling.
Mr. William, this is great news. I am glad you did it. As you stated, you can always turn it down. Good job sir and thank you for documenting your experience here. I really appreciate you. His blessings and protection on you sir....
@@Brian2bears I'm glad I ran across your channel. What's a little sad is that the MS362 right out of the box is IMHO is a lesser saw than my 22 YO O36 Pro. I also have a bit of an Axe love too, but can't find any handles like original for my Sager 4.5Lb double bit axes. I made one out of Ash years ago but it was very difficult. Blessings to you my friend.
Thank you sir for educating us all. I also have a 1 year old MS362 with what I believe is insufficient oiling. With everything clean to begin and oil adj. set to max I consistently have 1" of oil remaining in tank. After each cut chain appears dry. It seems to function as it should, but I wish it provided the same amount of oil as my 036Pro. Of all your commenters, I've not seen any mention where they reset their oil Adj. screw ?
Thank you Mr. William. I have this set-up on a 361 and a 460. I personally am not concerned with tanks running out at the same time, I compensate with fill levels. I want the oiler to oil the bar. I mill with the 361 on an edger-type mill with 20 and 24 inch bars. I adjust it from half to 3/4 wide-open. I have occasionally ran a 32" bar with the oiler wide-open and it oils it well. The 460 stays wide open and I run a 28" and 32" bar on it. Again, my goal is to oil the bar. Thank you sir for watching and commenting about your very valid observations....
Thanks for this video brother. Made it real simple for me. My HO 460 that I keep a 36 050 on needs this mod. Shoulda did it when I built it.
@gameface8000 you are certainly welcome. I recently built a 460 myself, a favorite of mine. Thank you for watching and commenting...
hay Brian I ran into when ordering the parts or 361 I asked him to look at the 461 parts in question and ordered those: then we saw that there were two parts for both the control bolt and the pump piston so since I have two of the pump assemblies and want to up grade both (one in the saw and one back up) I ordered two of each part cost was $84.00 for all 4 parts so I feel that I should be able to make the oilier work with the 24 cc pump for both the in saw and back up
Good. I am glad you found the parts. I have not had a need for a spare yet even though I have one also. I am thankful for your comments and views and be safe with those saws sir.
Hey, is the process the same for older models?
I have 044
Thanks
@adamszabadi4441 Hi Adam. The control bolt fits but not the pump piston. The operation is the same basically however....
This video shows what the 044/440 pump looks like compared to all the others....thank you for watching and commenting sir.....
THE TRUTH ABOUT STIHL OIL PUMPS..
ua-cam.com/video/wI307C3JoUc/v-deo.htmlsi=ZdCNlzqi0JXCbOWt
What’s your thoughts on the hyway oil pumps for ms400. I was leaning towards an ms462 oil pump but the hyway caught my eye.
Hi Mark. Several thoughts on your comment. No to Hyway. Build your stock pump. As to the 462 pump, it uses the same pump as the 382(no typo) and 500i. I have no experience of an unmodified pump body fitting the 400 from the 462. There are external differences at the pick-up interface and possibly elsewhere. Hundreds if not thousands of people have built their stock pumps, you can too...thank you for watching and commenting sir...
@@Brian2bears thank you sir, I’ll look into modifying my stock one.
my 034 036 has a scoop ive grinded more ,and drill passages ,thanks for the video
Hello Mr. Mark, thank you for watching.
What part did you grind I am haven problems with a 25 in bar on my 036
@@jakeanderson6443 im no pro,but i enlarged the piston cup ,on the oil pump,w dremel ,and stone bit,
Hi Brian, great video. So theres no difference to the pump bodies themselves - only the control screw and piston? I had originally thought the bodies had oil galleries inside that were larger in teh HO model.
The 461 manual states that models equipped with the HO model have a small notch 90 degrees to the screwdriver slot on the control screw (it appears as a T shape), is that the case with the HO screw you've got for the 461 here? I ask as the "stud" that prevents the screw from rotating more than a quarter turn has snapped off mine, and as a result I can't work out where the appropriate range is. The T notch is opposite the side of the screw that has been chamferred flat - I think max oil oitput is flat side toward bar tip, notch toward the pistol grip; any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Drew. Yes to everything you have stated. The adjustment slot should be perpendicular to your guide bar for wide-open. Yes all these pump bodies are the same. Thank you for watching and commenting sir.
Wondering if you knew if a pump from a 462 will work in a 400? I know this is an older video but it's worth a shot asking, you see to be more informed on the topic then most I've seen. Thanks
Hi Mason, thank you for watching and commenting...The cross-references say no. The 462/500i oil pump is 1142 640 3200. The outlet is flanged to go inside the crankcase/bar plate. The 400 oil pump outlet is smooth at the crankcase/bar plate interface. There may also be other dimensional problems I am not aware of. A similar question was also asked in the "pinned comment". I am seeing some conflicting information along these lines and caution viewers to be aware. I have several more 400 oil pump videos that are more up to date.ua-cam.com/play/PL4yXbW2Yt6bfMyYX7mzvZDCbVGQKmJxz4.html
Brian. I have a couple of questions. 1.Is the only seal, pump to engine an o-ring ? 2. Does the Cont. bolt orient a specific way before installing the Roll pin ? lastly what Dia. Pin Drift did you use to drive out the pin ? Rain here next several days and I may take mine apart to see exactly how it works. Strange I can't find a parts Diagram of the 461R, but plenty of other models. Jude 1:24-26
Now unto him that is abel to keep you from falling, and to present you faultless before the presence of his glory with exceeding joy...Mr. William, on the orientation of the control bolt, just position it in the general position of disassembly. As for the drift, I have some high quality allen keys in abundance and I also use some high quality picks from PM that are thirty years old...yes sir on the o-ring between the pump body and crankcase..on a personal saw I keep o-rings, pumps, drive gears, etc just in case...Thank you Mr. William for the views and correspondence....
So i bought a regular 462 and had a half wrap handle added because it’s impossible to get the r model now days. It isn’t putting enough oil out for my 28” bear the chain is getting too hot. I have this upgrade on the way as we speak. By this upgrade am I essentially turning the pump into the “ r” model pump or do I need to start by ordering the R model pump and then upgrade it?
Hello Sir. Put the brakes on for a minute. The MS462, C-M, C-M-R and the 500i use the same 1142 640 3200 oil pump. There is no R or HO model. The flow is increased by pushing in a pin next to the adjustment screw allowing you to increase the movement of the adjuster cam/screw. The part numbers listed here will not fit the 462 in any way shape form or fashion. The factory oiler should oil a 28" guide bar very well. Your local dealer should be able to do this if you can't figure it out. Thank you for watching and commenting in a positive way.
Great video. My 362 with 24" bar is oiling properly but the bar seems super dry and gets hot. Just to clarify, are you saying that the 461r full oil pump will be a direct bolt into the ms362 and the control bolt and piston from a 460 will drop right into a 362? You will be my hero if this works.
Seadoo GTI yes that is correct. Thank you for watching and commenting.
@@Brian2bears Super helpful vid. I'm burning up my $200 Cannon bar due to lack of oil. Thanks.
@@seadoogti9288 The part number for the complete high-output pump for the R model is in the description.
Hello, How do I find out if my early 362 is a R model?
I know some of the later 362 had a adjustable oil pump not mine.
Is the R in the Serial number?
Thanks for the help
All 362s have an adjustable oil pump. "R" models have a full wrap handlebar, large clutch cover and large felling spikes/dogs. The adjustment cam is on the bottom of the saw on the clutch side. It is only 1/4 turn cam, so don't force anything or you may break it...
@@Brian2bears
I looked closer at the saw, and you were rite I found it and adjusted it to full hope it makes a difference I'm looking for. If not I'll upgrade accordingly from your video.
Thanks Bud
@@ihus9950 That is awesome! Glad you found it. Thank you for watching and commenting in good way...
stihl #1128-647-0602 high output pump gear is the wrong part for my Stihl 362 chainsaw.
My pump gear looks like the ones on your bench but this part number does not look like your parts at all????????
Can Brian2bears please help me find the correct part number????
Nomenclature, this is not the oil pump drive gear but the pump piston and control bolt. Having said that, the oil pump drive gear looks like a plastic threaded piece with a heavy wire wrapped around it that drives the pump. I am confident of the part numbers listed that they are correct and still available.ua-cam.com/video/6M1yPBdwX6g/v-deo.html
1128-640-7112 is the part number for the oil pump worm gear. It fits 341,361,362,441,046,460,461.
Great video. You mentioned that removing the brass bushing was tough. Got any tips? About to do this to my 461
I used some pliers with circular jaws, nothing special. Thanks for watching.
ya take a paint stick and cut it the same length as the vice jaws clamp the pump in it so the bras part is up at a angle to the right or left about 75 degrees take a long drift punch at put under lip where the casting is cut down and tap with small hammer turn it over and tap on the other side of it, it should move turn it back over and tap on the first side it should move out more and at this point you should be able to remove it
thank for your help on this it was driving me koook koooooko
So.. I might have missed it.. The numbers you provide for the parts are the High output 460/1R? This is a huge problem for my saw.. I put the bigger pump that your graph shows 18cc per minute.. and that doesn't even cove it... The stock pump on my 362 is so dry.. You would think it would be recalled... Now, is there a vent in the oil tank that fails as well?? I saw a diagram that says you need a 5mm drift to drive it out? THanks.. Good stuff!
Check the pick up screen and sometimes the pump body becomes clogged. I have not heard of the problem with the breather. I have heard complaints of some 362s not oiling well. Thanks for watching.
would you know what is needed to modify the ms660 and ms880 thanks :)
I bought the complete oiler from Stihl (H.O.) for the 660. I have never moded a 660 or 880. The link has the part number for the 660. ua-cam.com/video/tw1xr_iecIc/v-deo.html
very good video with a lot of useful info. will this work for a stihl 044??
Hi Brennon, I am afraid not. The 044/MS440 uses different parts and part numbers. Having said that, there is some very solid information found in various online forums. Beyond owning the 044 and replacing the worm gear I have no experience with increasing the flow or volume. Thank you for watching and complimenting in a positive fashion.
Hello again Brian. I couldn't find the pump piston online, so I ordered it and the control bolt from my dealer. Regarding the o-rings on the control bolt, do I use the ones from my original 362 ? And I wish there was a video showing the removal from the saw. I will approach with fear and care, but will trust your details as given. My saw is a (Non Mtronic) and one year old. Isaiah 54:5
Mr. William, yes sir on the o-rings. The hardest part of the process is removing the clutch. LH threads, a piston stop is a must. Here is a link regarding the pump/clutch process. Your 362 will be like this..ua-cam.com/video/HHcKsKTEOqg/v-deo.html
Thank you Brian for the link to your other video. I should have looked at your other video first. The link was very helpful. As for Jack at hotsaws101, I have viewed and received replies from him. A champion sawyer if ever there was one. "Have a blessed day where ever you may be on God's green earth".
@@williamokrasinski9840 Mr. Jack is an awesome individual and the fact the he recognizes the Creator makes him all the more awesome...
Thank you!!!
Thank you Jensen...
Is it the same on MS440??
@Griz2018 C, no sir, STIHL uses a unique system on the 044/440. The parts shown here do not interchange. Thank you for watching and commenting....
I have had oil leaking from behind two separate pumps, my original and a replacement I purchased off eBay. It looks to be seaping around the pumps worm gear. It then travels it's way into the clutch. Any idea why. My saw runs great otherwise.
Brad450 FAM, I have not seen worm gear leaks but rather through the normal flow channels and drainage off the rear of the bar. Unless we are speaking of a rescue saw or one for emergency use, I suggest draining bar oil and fuel. Supposing the pick-up tube and o-ring behind the pump are not the source of course. Thank you for watching and your kind question.
@@Brian2bears I did see it leaking at the end where the tube is pressed into the pump. Had nothing to lose, so I pulled it out and tried putting some loctite on it and pressing in back in. I reinstalled everything and it's sat for a few days and now I see oil all over the bottom of the saw again. This time I will buy a OEM pump to see if it fixes the problem.
@@grassrat4506 While there, install a new OEM pick-up hose and o-ring that goes behind the pump.
The aluminum pump body wears allowing bar oil to leak past the piston
@jasoncook5307 very possible Mr. Jason, thank you for watching and commenting....
will the one for the 460 work in the 361
Yes. I am using the 461R parts mentioned in a 361. Thanks for watching.
@@Brian2bears so If I call stihl and ask for the control bolt and pump for the 461r it should be the 24 cc pump
@@gregritter377 Use the numbers that I supply in the description and / or in the video with your servicing Stihl dealer. You can also purchase the complete pump.
@@Brian2bears hay Brian are the part numbers different for the 461 control bolt and pump piston
maybe I should try the the one for the 461 in the 361
I am very interested in this upgrade for my 361 so I have a couple questions where did these numbers come from stihl or some one elese and where did you get the parts from www.page or name and phone number please
The numbers are in several places. Various forums etc. I got my parts from a local Stihl dealership. Thanks for watching.
The part number he has listed is the incorrect part number for a MS362 Pump Gear High Output!!! His part number was supposed to work in the oil pump body of the MS362 but it looks nothing like the original part. Bad information for the part number!!!
@@Finom1 Mr. Finom, did you get this resolved?
Sir, thank you so much.
Dekonfrost 7...thank you for watching and commenting...