I finally got a chance to fix my wife’s 14 Ford Flex Limited and everything went well! This video definitely saved me several $100s. Thank you for posting!
Thanks! Great fix! Bought 30 of the hobby magnets off amazon and a 5 pack of switches all for $20.00!!!!! No more car alarms and dead batteries for no apparent reason.
After a few weeks of frustration, I watched your video and followed it exactly. Brilliant! Problem fixed and I (and my wife) couldn't be happier! I appreciate you taking the time to post this!
Oh my gosh. You are awesome! I was putting this off in protest of expensive, crappy engineering. Your fix is both functional and elegant. Very nicely done!
Thanks for the video! Great idea. I have a 2013 Flex Limited and the driver rear door sensor went out and the signal wire was yellow on that door. Your fix works great!
Today I did my passenger side door, yellow and black wire and the other white. Skinned back the wire insulation, spliced and soldered in the switch. Hot glued a rectangular magnet underneath the threshold. All is now well and working fine.
And on another note, I didn't cut the wires, I just scotch-locked to the existing wires. Works great. Stuck the magnet to the bottom of the door opening and put tape over it. Strong enough to pull through the plastic.
I added the magnetic sensor to one door today in order to fix the faulty. The wires in my 2013 I cut are the two going into the lower part of the sensor and they are solid-yellow and black- yellow stripe. Unfortunately, I did not order stronger magnets thinking that some I had in my garage would work. I placed an order on Amazon and should receive the new magnets by Sunday. For now, I have a small magnet taped to the bottom of the door.
Thank you so much for sharing this great idea. I've been dealing with intermittent switch for a few weeks now, but the 5am horn honking finally got me to take some action. I bought the parts per your links below, and they worked perfectly. I did add a quick disconnect (that I made by cutting this extender in half: amzn.to/2rDeXLa) so that future removal of the door panel can still be done with quick disconnect of the wiring and without concern for damaging the repair. I struggled with complete removal of the bottom door trim on the rear door (some weird clips in there attached to the rubber molding), so I just used a blob of hot glue to hold the magnets and just lifted the trim piece a bit and slid them under there into position. Anyway, thank you again for this great idea. Working like a charm, and this will be the solution again when the next door switch goes out.
Glad it worked out for you. I thought about adding some type of connectors on the wires, but I am really hoping that I do not have to have the door panel off too many times in the future.
You're probably right about the connector being overkill....seeing as this is the first time I've ever had to remove a door panel on any car (and I tinker with my cars all the time). And thanks for sharing the link to the switch....I found them online, but I was struggling with the "Normally Open" vs. "Normally Closed" switches....I know what that means on push button switches, but I didn't on a magnetically triggered switch (i.e. is "Normally" when the magnet is there or not?). Also, the button magnets were a perfect solution as well (the magnet with the switch itself was just too tall/deep for the application). And thanks to Twomonsters below for the comment that the driver side rear door wires were the yellow ones (yellow and yellow with black stripe).......I didn't have to play "bomb defuser" and accidently cut the wrong wire! Again....thanks for sharing this great idea!
I tried your fix. But it was my front passenger door. The wire colors on the connector into the latch assembly are colored differently so I used the same relative wires (2 bottom) but it didn't work. I have 2013 flex SEL with same interior you have. I ordered the same parts from amazon. thank you for posting. I was hard to clearly hear the wires you had on driver side, but I believe it was (top to bottom) blue, white, green/violet, black my passenger side (top to bottom) yellow, white, gray/brown, gray/violet.. I cut the 3rd down. left the connector side null and connected body side to the switch I tapped the 4th wire down into the other side of the switch. I just peeled the insulation and tied in the other side of the switch. passing the magnet across the switch didn't have any impact. I have things just dry wired to make sure they work before soldering. I'm using the magnet that came with the switch. I would think it's strong enough to work. both parts of the switch are not yet installed. I have the connector to the latch installed, and all of the other door connectors connected. could you please confirm the colors on your connector (top to bottom)? How did you figure out what wires to cut/tap into. I've not found a wiring diagram. Thanks
From the information I have, the ground wire for the front passenger door is black w/ yellow stripe and the wire to the Body Control Module is white. This is based on a wiring diagram I found online. I have never had the passenger side door panel off, so I cannot confirm.
Almost forgot. The magnet I used under the trim was not the magnet that will come with the sensor. I felt it was not strong enough for the gap between the sensor and the trim piece. I was able to get a single magnet from a local science store, but here is a link to a similar one. It's a 15 pack, but at least the specs are there. www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2XYYP/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491822234&sr=8-2&keywords=12+pound+rare+earth+magnet
Yes....I used some garage door wire (the stuff that goes to the sensors or opener) I had laying around. Made it pretty long so I could still remove the door panel without damaging it in the future.
My understanding is you bypassed the old switch correct? If so could you not have wired it in parallel so both the new magnetic switch and the OEM one could work?
My 2013 Flex had 3 doors with this issue (one that had already been replaced under warranty). Added in a magnetic switch to all 3 doors (driver, passenger, and rear passenger) a week ago and things are working great. Couple tips for anyone that plans to perform this: 1. I didn't drill holes in my door panels. Instead I just used a double sided adhesive to attach the switch to the bottom inside of the door panel lined up with the magnet taped under the threshold. Seems to be working great. 2. Here are the products I used: Switches: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F5YJQ5T/ Magnets: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C6TYTJ5/ 3. Here is a link to a great picture someone put together that shows the correct wiring color for each door. This was accurate for the three doors I fixed: www.fixya.com/fullimage.html?src=i.fixya.net/uploads/images/door%20latch-pnbgzxoozdeesuh20dfdzcf2-1-0.jpg
I have this problem with both rear doors.. recently my radio, sound etc stopped working.. the rear camera alert sound still works.. so I'm not sure how accurate the following information is that was given to me.. i was told that the sound suddenly going out has to do with this issue.. the reason being that the car purposely turns all sound off (except for the seatbelt sound and camera sound, which still work) so that I'm able to hear A malfunction very low pitch sound coming from the car.. basically the car turns off the radio and says "hey listen to this sound.. something's not working correctly.. take me to the dealership and have it fixed.. " i was told that once i replace the latches, the radio will work again. ANYONE KNOW HOW TRUE THIS IS??
I just fix two door latch switch following this & a schematic to get the color code for the four latch. I went the soldering & shrink route. Works perfectly! Tks so much! www.fixya.com/fullimage.html?src=i.fixya.net/uploads/images/door%20latch-pnbgzxoozdeesuh20dfdzcf2-1-0.jpg
Tired this out and worked BRILLIANTLY! Thanks again for posting this. I have no doubt that this SO many more. $40 worth of items vs $400...no brainer!
Brilliant. Just fixed my wife's 2009 Flex SEL. Fixed 2 issues the annoying door ajar dining and my wife reminding daily me how much it annoyed her!
I finally got a chance to fix my wife’s 14 Ford Flex Limited and everything went well! This video definitely saved me several $100s. Thank you for posting!
Since the wiring harness uses different colors on the 14 ltd what wires did you use?
Thanks! Great fix! Bought 30 of the hobby magnets off amazon and a 5 pack of switches all for $20.00!!!!! No more car alarms and dead batteries for no apparent reason.
After a few weeks of frustration, I watched your video and followed it exactly. Brilliant! Problem fixed and I (and my wife) couldn't be happier! I appreciate you taking the time to post this!
Oh my gosh. You are awesome! I was putting this off in protest of expensive, crappy engineering. Your fix is both functional and elegant. Very nicely done!
You just saved me over $700 AND from just grounding the latch! I had 2 doors go bad. Took about 3 hours out of my weekend but so worth it!
Thanks for the video! Great idea. I have a 2013 Flex Limited and the driver rear door sensor went out and the signal wire was yellow on that door. Your fix works great!
This worked great! I did have to align the magnet on the trip a few times to get it to line up perfectly, but it worked!
genius at 1/10 the cost, thanks man, I have three doors on the fritz
Thank you. Just fixed my 2014 using your video. Works great.
I what to thank you very much for your video. Excellent. Just fix it Wednesday (November 15, 2017)
Today I did my passenger side door, yellow and black wire and the other white. Skinned back the wire insulation, spliced and soldered in the switch. Hot glued a rectangular magnet underneath the threshold. All is now well and working fine.
And on another note, I didn't cut the wires, I just scotch-locked to the existing wires. Works great.
Stuck the magnet to the bottom of the door opening and put tape over it. Strong enough to pull through the plastic.
Awesome! Thank you for sharing
I added the magnetic sensor to one door today in order to fix the faulty. The wires in my 2013 I cut are the two going into the lower part of the sensor and they are solid-yellow and black- yellow stripe.
Unfortunately, I did not order stronger magnets thinking that some I had in my garage would work. I placed an order on Amazon and should receive the new magnets by Sunday. For now, I have a small magnet taped to the bottom of the door.
Very ingenious
Anyone have a link to the parts used? Thanks! Yep
Thank you so much for sharing this great idea. I've been dealing with intermittent switch for a few weeks now, but the 5am horn honking finally got me to take some action. I bought the parts per your links below, and they worked perfectly. I did add a quick disconnect (that I made by cutting this extender in half: amzn.to/2rDeXLa) so that future removal of the door panel can still be done with quick disconnect of the wiring and without concern for damaging the repair. I struggled with complete removal of the bottom door trim on the rear door (some weird clips in there attached to the rubber molding), so I just used a blob of hot glue to hold the magnets and just lifted the trim piece a bit and slid them under there into position.
Anyway, thank you again for this great idea. Working like a charm, and this will be the solution again when the next door switch goes out.
Glad it worked out for you. I thought about adding some type of connectors on the wires, but I am really hoping that I do not have to have the door panel off too many times in the future.
You're probably right about the connector being overkill....seeing as this is the first time I've ever had to remove a door panel on any car (and I tinker with my cars all the time). And thanks for sharing the link to the switch....I found them online, but I was struggling with the "Normally Open" vs. "Normally Closed" switches....I know what that means on push button switches, but I didn't on a magnetically triggered switch (i.e. is "Normally" when the magnet is there or not?). Also, the button magnets were a perfect solution as well (the magnet with the switch itself was just too tall/deep for the application).
And thanks to Twomonsters below for the comment that the driver side rear door wires were the yellow ones (yellow and yellow with black stripe).......I didn't have to play "bomb defuser" and accidently cut the wrong wire!
Again....thanks for sharing this great idea!
Anyone have a link to the magnets/sensors?
Worked great.
I tried your fix. But it was my front passenger door. The wire colors on the connector into the latch assembly are colored differently so I used the same relative wires (2 bottom) but it didn't work. I have 2013 flex SEL with same interior you have.
I ordered the same parts from amazon. thank you for posting.
I was hard to clearly hear the wires you had on driver side, but I believe it was (top to bottom) blue, white, green/violet, black
my passenger side (top to bottom) yellow, white, gray/brown, gray/violet..
I cut the 3rd down. left the connector side null and connected body side to the switch
I tapped the 4th wire down into the other side of the switch. I just peeled the insulation and tied in the other side of the switch.
passing the magnet across the switch didn't have any impact.
I have things just dry wired to make sure they work before soldering. I'm using the magnet that came with the switch. I would think it's strong enough to work. both parts of the switch are not yet installed. I have the connector to the latch installed, and all of the other door connectors connected.
could you please confirm the colors on your connector (top to bottom)?
How did you figure out what wires to cut/tap into. I've not found a wiring diagram.
Thanks
From the information I have, the ground wire for the front passenger door is black w/ yellow stripe and the wire to the Body Control Module is white. This is based on a wiring diagram I found online. I have never had the passenger side door panel off, so I cannot confirm.
Sckot_75 thank u
I work in alarms is this a normally closed door contact? I saw another video where it was normally open
I used a normally open contact. It is only closed when in proximity to the magnet.
Can you post a link to the parts on Amazon? Thanks for posting!
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LZGBJPP/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1491778171&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=recessed+magnet+alarm+sensor
Almost forgot. The magnet I used under the trim was not the magnet that will come with the sensor. I felt it was not strong enough for the gap between the sensor and the trim piece. I was able to get a single magnet from a local science store, but here is a link to a similar one. It's a 15 pack, but at least the specs are there.
www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2XYYP/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491822234&sr=8-2&keywords=12+pound+rare+earth+magnet
Do you guys use any type of wire to connect from the latch assembly to the magnet?
Yes....I used some garage door wire (the stuff that goes to the sensors or opener) I had laying around. Made it pretty long so I could still remove the door panel without damaging it in the future.
wiz99 thank you! I’ll work on my wife’s 14 Flex tomorrow and see how it goes. 🤞🏼
wiz99 everything went well! Thank you again!
Would this reed switch work for a car alarm that needs ground when open?
You should be able to get the reverse position switch, open with magnet versus closed with magnet.
My understanding is you bypassed the old switch correct? If so could you not have wired it in parallel so both the new magnetic switch and the OEM one could work?
Yep. Wiring it in parallel with the original switch would work as well.
My 2013 Flex had 3 doors with this issue (one that had already been replaced under warranty). Added in a magnetic switch to all 3 doors (driver, passenger, and rear passenger) a week ago and things are working great. Couple tips for anyone that plans to perform this:
1. I didn't drill holes in my door panels. Instead I just used a double sided adhesive to attach the switch to the bottom inside of the door panel lined up with the magnet taped under the threshold. Seems to be working great.
2. Here are the products I used:
Switches: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F5YJQ5T/
Magnets: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C6TYTJ5/
3. Here is a link to a great picture someone put together that shows the correct wiring color for each door. This was accurate for the three doors I fixed:
www.fixya.com/fullimage.html?src=i.fixya.net/uploads/images/door%20latch-pnbgzxoozdeesuh20dfdzcf2-1-0.jpg
Awesome help, but as of 2/13/19 the fixya link is broken. Can you add the color codes in text format?
@@p.stauffer5191 Driver's Door: Switch - Green/Violet, Ground - Black
Rear Driver's Door: Switch - Yellow, Ground - Black/Yellow
Passenger Door: Switch - White, Ground - Black/Yellow
Rear Passenger Door: Switch - Yellow, Ground - Black/Yellow
I have this problem with both rear doors.. recently my radio, sound etc stopped working.. the rear camera alert sound still works.. so I'm not sure how accurate the following information is that was given to me.. i was told that the sound suddenly going out has to do with this issue.. the reason being that the car purposely turns all sound off (except for the seatbelt sound and camera sound, which still work) so that I'm able to hear A malfunction very low pitch sound coming from the car.. basically the car turns off the radio and says "hey listen to this sound.. something's not working correctly.. take me to the dealership and have it fixed.. " i was told that once i replace the latches, the radio will work again. ANYONE KNOW HOW TRUE THIS IS??
I just fix two door latch switch following this & a schematic to get the color code for
the four latch. I went the soldering & shrink route. Works perfectly! Tks so much!
www.fixya.com/fullimage.html?src=i.fixya.net/uploads/images/door%20latch-pnbgzxoozdeesuh20dfdzcf2-1-0.jpg
Ford can get EFFED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1