2:26 Fluid escaping through the vent hole. The membrane in the reservoir is probably damaged or misalligned. In these brakes (as well as Hope Tech3/4) the mambrane also acts as a seal for the reservoir's lid. So if you put too much pressure in the reservoir, the membrane gets stretched too much and the sealing function is disturbed.
Honestly man I been here since the beginning and I’m glad to see what an amazing content creator you have become. IMO you have one of the best bike content channels on UA-cam at this moment. Can’t wait to see you grow even bigger.
Thanks Jonathan, that's a huge compliment. I hope to keep getting better and maybe even hire a camera man one day for studio stuff and even better videos
Depends. Yes apart from the drivetrain and maybe dropper the expensive stuff will be better. BUT how much? In case of Shimano brake's for example xtr aren't really better than SLX considering how much more they cost.
With a full squish you gotta spend 3grand or something maybe 2,5k new to get something very good that you don't have to throw upgrades at instantly. If you can find a good deal on a frame you like you MIGHT be able to get away cheaper with going used or cheaper in some cases. I did go for mid Level suspension (a revelation wanted to get a Yari but got this Revelation with 100km on it for half the new price) on my Hardtail and 11spd instead of 12spd with a 11-46 cassette and i have SLX 4piston brake's which you can find on Hardtails that are a grand more than my Bike. So if you are smart you can get a good bike cheaper.
Like Kaede said 2.5-3k is the cheapest full suspension bike you can buy that is not a pile of crap. 1.5-2k for decent hardtail. If your starting out and can't spend that get a used bike that retailed for at least those prices.
btw just letting you know, upgrading/ getting all the parts and building a bike yourself from the frame will ALWAYS be more expensive than buying pre-built
My piston fell out too when I bled my Magura brakes! Such a pain in the ass cause you have to start everything over again. And as a beginner mechanic it was already quite an involved job.
Did you not have the bleed blocks in? Magura's are really easy to bleed, if a bit different from others. Unless you're needing to flush the brake with all new fluid, most of the time you can just do a vacuum bleed from the lever. The biggest mistake I see is people over tightening the bleed port screw on the lever.
It all felt too fast. I'm not quite ready to watch this series come to an end. This was a really fun series and educational at the same time. I hope I can see a sequel to this series in the near future!
Yea I've had them and they'll outbrake the traction on pavement, so why do you need better brakes? There's something about heat dissipation but big rotors and brake management will help, only if you're hanging hard on the brakes at high speeds for 10+ minutes at a time you really need better brakes. and I've found not braking that much makes me go faster.
These are definitely sleeper brakes. I have the two piston setup and they feel and stop great. I'll upgrade the front to a four piston at some point (couldn't find stock at the time).
@@xxfyrezgamerxx6279 Hope doesn't have more stopping power than Shimano Saint. Incredible brakes, but you're buying them for the adjustability, consistency and build quality. Not sheer stopping power.
I actually worked at a Specialized store and we put for one customer his set of Maximas (he waited 1,5 years... 😅) on his S-Works Kenevo... Yeah, "deammm!!" is a pretty accurate description...😁😅👌
Been lucky enough to ride two sets of maximas, once in the alps and another time on an ebike. I usually use code rsc and the trickstuff are on another level to codes and I’ve never once had an issue with the codes. But the lever feel and the power of the maximas together with their power pads which I now run no other brake can touch. No fade and the lever throw is so short and light you hardly have to use any effort with braking, takes some getting used to first time I rode with them I braked just before a berm and nearly went OTB 😂 in Europe they are not as pricey as the US but still well over €1000 a set. IMO they are worth the cash, I’ve raved about them for the last year since trying them but sadly I’m a poor so won’t ever get to own my own set just borrow my friends bike when he’s feeling kind.
This is the first episode where I'm going to have to disagree on the low side as it's still too expensive tbh. Dominions ain't cheap used either. Comparison for you is I've had Sram guide, Shimano 4 pots and Hope E4 brakes for under £200. Still other than that it's great broski
Haha I'd definitely consider Hayes dominion high level already. Low bike could have gone for a shimano mt520, probably the lowest cost you could go for great power.
@@dylan-5287 great choice. Those mt520 are probably the best price/performance ratio I've ever got out of a brake. New too. Used it's even better dealio. They felt just like saint or zee to me
@@hiigara2085 I'm a big fan of shimano brakes. Got a Zee in the front and basic mt401 in back. Their four piston brakes are super powerful. Gotta love the price to performance ratio.
For value I gotta go for magura mt thirty. An mt5 except with a plastic lever blade (replaceable with an mt7 lever blade). Effectively a pair of mt7s for ~280 with some gently used hc lever blades.
@@Huzanicz that's what im doing! Had xt m8000 on my knolly warden from when I got it, and the mt thirty is the cheapest way to get the mt5 caliper, and it has semi metallic pads, and comes with plenty of fresh brake line!
Since i have heard many ppl having stuck pistons on Magura i avoid em... Maybe great when the work but i rather stick to my SLX 4pot with koolstop pads.
@@kaedeschulz5422 the magura pistons don’t stick. What you’re referring to is air trapped in the caliper keeping the pistons from working. Hydraulics don’t like air in the system at all. The air absolutely ruins maguras reputation from lousy bike mechanics. Once you get the air out all the pistons work in harmony and the MT series brakes are absolute dreams.
Shimano Deore or above for sure for budget builders - super cheap to maintain, super cheap to buy (my four piston XT brakeset were 100 quid), and definitely strong enough - if it's good enough for downhill racers, its good enough for you! With that said, great video as usual!
Would have gone for SLX 4 piston here and koolstop pads. Not sure if the M6120 deore are any worse. When shopping for part's the Deore weren't in stock so i took the SLX again like on my last bike.
@@kaedeschulz5422 original from shimano. I swaped it with one from aliexpress now. My problem is that i had too much stopping power with ceramic pads which are great.
@@fackerhidonbush8420 Too much is always better than not enaugh in this case :D I will swap tje stock ones in my SLX for Pads from koolstop. Ridden them once on a friend's bike and WOW! I NEED THOSE!
people say you don't feel it. I'm running saints and i can definately tell which brake has the flex housing. since a friend is running my exact same bike same brakes with the regular braking hoses.
I have the Hayes A4s on my enduro, very happy with them! Even on downhill courses my brakes never crossed my mind, they do their job prpperly. Got them for a nice discount too, about €350 for the set.
TRICKSTUFF speaking: Sometimes reading (and following) the manual helps! We are happy that our brakes are featured in such a video, but the author's bleed process was not perfect. I can promise: If they are bled and installed correctly every user has been satisfied up to date.
Hello Klaus! The bleed process was difficult. On a follow up video, I finally nailed the bleed process to perfection with the proper oil and proper bleed block. The bleed felt like a skill I had to perfect 🤣. But it also helped me bleed other brakes after that. I did test your brakes against Shigura, and the trickstuff are definitely the most powerful.
I fully understand klaus point here. You did not even use the right oil that is recommended for the brakes. The Bleeding and the oil are the most important parts to get right for a good performance. I feel like this lack of effort is really a shame since you were ready to spend 2000 Dollars on those brakes. @Evans MTB Saga
Those original mt201 are actually worthy of competition in the highest level. Change pads to semi metallic, rotors need replaced to be compatible with semi metallics. Then bleed them really really good. They are amazing after that
8:19 You can add rubber tape on the levers or use anti slip/grip tape, but rubber tape won't wear your gloves as fast. I had Tesa anti slip tape, but now I am trying Marsh Guard Slapper Tape. all lever blades I've tried are slippery compared to rubber. Formula has a tiny texture to it, but still not super grippy.I think Formula is a good alternative to these brakes. But I've not tried these brakes.
Dip your brake levers in liquid rubber after you've done some roughing to the surface. You can buy second hand levers if you feel unsure you want to do this. The finished item will last you quite a while, and when it does eventually brake, you can just take it off, and repeat the process again. Buy the best liquid rubber kit on the market, don't skimp on it and yes, the rough surface is a must for this, you can't do it on the smooth surface, it will come off. I used a bastard file to roughen up my levers, using its edge to make a bastardized rhombus pattern on them. It's vital that you do the surface where your fingers land, the edges where it goes on the back and the tip of the lever arm. The gaps and sides aren't as important. Depending on what liquid rubber kit you buy, you can even have texture (small chunks of rubber embedded into the liquid rubber). These kits are mainly for making your own rubberized handles on tools.
@@aserta Great advice. thx for sharing. Not something I have to do now, as I upgraded the levers to RG Components, they have bearings, holes in the lever blade for the fingers to grip. I don't know why Trickstuff nor Formula did this.
I've never understood parts maximizing to brakes. Just about any brakes these days (of the appropriate size for the bike/trail) are totally fine for setting corner entry speed and even panic braking on trail you'll lock 'em up. The argument can be made for feel/engagement if you're a finesse braker but otherwise I can't get my head around $1k+ on brakes when you could spend that money on suspension, tires, etc. Note that I'm a reasonably fast rider that does a lot of park and shuttle. I'm not anti-brakes. ;)
I could not disagree with you more. I have own & have ridden in lots of terrain, by far my Hayes A4 are miles better than Sram Guide. I've not owned a shimano 4 piston, but many other shimano brakes. Once you run a better brake, you are actually a faster rider. seems counter intuitive, but you can enter corners later with a better brake, less fade & the Hayes have the nicest lever feel out of anything I've worked on or owned.
@@nicksonsbikeski440 I've run a lot of different brakes on my bikes over the years. Never once have I swapped brakes and added seconds to a trail time and I GPS track every ride. I think if you're adding seconds by swapping brakes you either didn't have enough brake to begin with (not brand specific) or a certain brand gives you a feel that adds more confidence. The latter isn't necessarily the other brake's fault as long as it had appropriate power, the rider just didn't adapt to it. I'm personally just brake agnostic. It's not that they don't have some slightly different feel, it's just that given enough stopping power I'm not bothered by the feel and get used to them after a ride or two and not a second thought after that.
i could disagree, speed comes from bike being set up the way you like it which comes at a cost. sure cheaper brakes are good but top level brakes are so much better. i run a 29er super enduro norco range hp and had it come with some low level shimanos and they could barely stop it i put my saints on it is so much better. upgrading brakes are my go to because suspension is always smooth nowadays no matter the model
@@bigslacker666 Brakes make a huge difference in decending capability. especially on super steep trails, like horseface, or when going 30 mph on a downhill into a hairpin turn, brakes make a huge difference.
You’ve probably already noticed/fixed it, but your front brake on the low-end bike wasn’t mounted properly. There’s a lot of space between the calliper and the brake mount. Check 9:05
Jeez, that’s terrifying. What’s happening is that the adaptor doesn’t dip low enough, and you can see that the caliper is bottoming out on the adaptor, so the lower bolt couldn’t be fully tightened. That’s really scary to see.
i have been following this series and enjoying it so far mainly because of the good choices of parts to compare, coming from the disappointment from PB's version. but I have to say this episode is something I have to nitpick which is the choice for the low bike. Even though you bought it 2nd hand and cheaper from SRP, Dominion A4 is by no means a low tier "budget" brake price and performance wise so for me it looks like you're just comparing a high tier brake vs a super premium thus the essence of how a budget build feels vs a premium one is not present. I was expecting more of a deore quads level kind of, so you can really compare and see if the premium price is worth it. sorry for the essay lol, just saying how I feel.
Most people change brakes because they want a different feel and consistent bite point over stopping power. Just changing the disc and pads can make a drastic difference to the feel. Ive never tried a stopping test like that but to be honnest I expected more weight transfer under heavy braking.
Those expensive brakes wile shine here in Switzerland when you decent from 3300m to 800m (10826 feet - 2624 feet). with the "cheap" ones you will have to stop a couple of times to let them cool down :) Cheers
It's more complex than that. It includes fluid, brake pad composition, tires, weight of bike and rider... It's just not that simple. Also this test isn't scientific to my satisfaction unfortunately although it's fun to watch.
I caught a sale and upgraded the MT200 brakes on my Marin Rift Zone 2 to Deore XT BL-M8100 levers and BR-M8120 4 piston calipers front and rear. I also upgraded crap rotors to MT800 rotors. I know 4 piston in rear is a bit overkill but with the sale only paid $280 for levers, calipers, and rotors both front and rear!
@@kaedeschulz5422 Machined and engineered completely in Germany. Thats just what labour here costs. We are just too used to cheap mass produced stuff made in China.
4:42 I have Formula Cura 4, I did not need this tool, I only needed housing cutter and my fingers to push the insert in the hose. With Shimano I could not do that I had to use pliers and hose clamping blocks provided with the brakes.
Greetings from Germany✌ nice to see someone using Trickstuff brakes :) as a Maxima owner i can tell how frustrating it can be to bleed these brakes. But when you're doing it right they are way ahead of any other brakes on the market. Maybe you should try the Trickstuff Rotors for best performance. The Maxima should stop you way earlier than the Hayes
To be fair, there shouldnt be much diference at a first stop. Its basically tires and surface that limits you. When you really need good brakes is a long downhill section where some brakes might experience extensive fading due to the heat.
@@EvansMTBSaga yes you should take some time to properly bed them in. I had the Code Rsc, Magura MT7 and even the Trickstuff Direttissima. But when they launched the Maxima...i had to have them. I dont know if you want to keep the brakes after the projekt, but they will be worth every cent and will do a good..no..the best job for many years. Like you said the quality is above everyzhing else
One finger setup is a must.I refuse to use anythign else. The brakes with bite/contact adjustment are nice, but there are tricks to get the bite point where you want after setting reach. Overall that's all that sets apart the brakes for me. Pads I use the same combo on every bike. One side is semi, one organic. This mixed approach covers contamination issues with the surface. No matter what brake I use once I adapt to it, there is no change in my stopping power.
Sometimes I think companies charge too much money for what they sell, I bought the wildwood 6 piston calipers with race spec bushings and 2 piece rotors and pads included for my COBRA for $1700 brand new ,and some of these bike parts cost more than a used Honda civic lol 😆.
Amazing editing and video can’t wait for the final episode. Question, when the series finishes will you keep the parts on the bikes or change them around to different bikes like the nucleus or d7
It’s crazy that the you went from upgrading your wife’s mountain bike with a $100 Chinese fork to a $2000 brakes. I would have gone with sram or Shimano brakes but its interesting to see some more variety. What do you plan on doing with the bikes now that they are finished?
I did some math taking into consideration the two masses, and the difference (in Newtons) in stopping power is really thin. I don't know about the disc diameters, but if you put a smaller one for the cheapest brakes, the amount of force the pistons had to impress on the rotor is greater for the cheapest brakes.
I feel like the comparison between the two is flawed. I haven't seen the whole series on high / low, but I think I get the concept. In my opinion, a proper comparison would have been testing both sets on the same bike. I assume these Bikes have different wheels and tires ? That alone is a huge variable. Test them on the same bike, it doesn't matter which one, and then Install them on the high / low bikes afterwards to tally up the costs totals. This test didn't really compare anything except for cost. All it did was show how each brake worked for the setup it was installed on.
the series is about low vs high budget bike so they naturally have different setups to compare the bike as a whole, not just the brakes or a particular part. else it would just have been a comparison review.
@@niz989 true. I didnt really notice the title because i've been following this series which in context is about 2 differently priced bikes. However the dominion is really not appropriate for a low budget build so im not happy with this episode.
TLDR: Buy middle grade components - unless you’re making a living from racing or have money to burn. Still interesting to see the comparisons. Way better than Pinkbike!
I looked up all type of oils and I found out they're all the same if used correctly. I was thinking about experimenting on using cooking oil too since they're all high temp boiling point. I found out peanut oil, saf flower oil have the highest boiling point. I love my Hayes brakes, and bought a 2nd pair for my other bike. I'm also sort of doing high low bike ut my low bike have all the chinese parts from aliexpress lol. Real budget bikes!
First and foremost, respect for an amazing series regarding both content and quality 👌 Your going the extra mile here finding some serially good bang for the buck on the low bike and simultaneously totally spoiling the high bike. I'm curious if the difference in the bikes weight, especially wheel weight, could offset some of the braking results, cause you do run the same tyres right? That said I'm sure the Trickstuff is awfully powerful! Personally I'm eying up the Dominions as an upgrade for my Guide RSC:s and this didn't put me off.
Hollow claims. I was a test rider for Frank industries out of engelsbrand in Germany.these were in 2007 the best brakes in the world and still are. They were used mon a 150horsepower race bike initially. Unfortunately a few suppliers put Frank industries in bankruptcy. I still ride mine, 230/210mm disc . The brake design is still up for sale....
I like the video, but i don't think hayes is the right brake for a comparison. It's a flagship brake and it's not that cheap after all. Imo you should've picked something more budget and popular on the trails like 4-piston shimanos or MT5 for a proper comparison
Excited for the finale. I have watched all episodes. Ive got the same siskiu d5 bike and slowly upgraded the parts and transformed it to a 3300 usd bike.😄
Great video. I've used some mildly expensive brakes on my bikes. Shimano xtr 2 piston got my XC bike and sram code rsc for my enduro. Crazy to think that there are better and/or more expensive brakes than the RSC's out there
@@leomit5o from what's I've heard yes. I haven't tried them. If I decide to upgrade in the future I will but as of right now the code rsc's don't have any negatives for me and have more than enough stopping power....especially since I'm 150lbs.
@@leomit5o They are great until for some reasons the master cylinder starts leaking. Idk if i was unlucky, but i had one bad from the factory, they didn't really have a replacement so i went the shigura route. Cost me more than i had hoped but it's really the best brake i have tried so far.
The expensive brake might have more stopping power, but I don't see how power alone translates to shorter stopping distance. I've had 2 relatively low end MTB's with hydraulic disc brakes now. The first were absolutely cheap brakes from tektro, now I'm on something from Shimano. None of those lacked stopping power in any shape or form, both were/are easily capable of either locking the front wheel or sending me over the bars at all time. So maybe the expensive ones had better feel so he could manage the stoppie better? Also i'd be interested how accurate the speed was, when starting to brake each time.
I have 2 piston tektro brakes, weight 200 pounds, brake with one finger and can block the wheels if I want too. I don't see how I need to waste money on something "better".
I just got Hayes A4s. Ordered the bleed kit on Sunday from Lost Co, received it yesterday (Wednesday), so not a problem to get, in my experience. Did you fine tune your A4 calipers using the set screws? Suggestion: plastidip your brake levers. I did this on my bikes back in 2000 and it's still perfect today after many, many thousands of miles. Use liquid Plastidip (used for coating tool handles to get better grip) and dip your brake levers a few times. You can even choose what color plastidip to use. It works amazingly well, no more finger slipping on brake levers. I've also done the touch points on shifter and dropper levers on my new bike.
He didn't fine tune anything, you can clearly see the mount for the caliper is touching the caliper itself and the brake isn't even tight on the fork, major safety issue While I had Hayes brakes I always used the cross hair system, it was great, however not as great as Hope brakes
I have a set of the Dominion A4 and it's a lot more of a brake for quite the same price as MT7, Code RSC or Saint. However, I've never tried the Trickstuff... But even if I did try and find them the best, yet I won't spend so much for brakes 🙄
@@jamble7k The MT7 is quite similar to the A4 in terms of performance; the main advantage of the A4 is absolutely fantastic lever feel and ergomonics. The MT7's lever isn't that comfy (and Magura's brake overall)
Wow you have come a long way. I've been here since 200 subs. BTW you need to keep the pads cooler when bedding them in. a simple squirt of water will do the job after each run.
I recently finished a resto/upgrade of my '05 GT Ruckus i-drive and when it came to deciding what brakes to go for I decided to go moto and run SLX - M7100 2-pot rear and M7120 4-pot front with RT-86 rotors. It's so stupid it works, and works well 🤣
9:04 the caliper is loose, it's not secured to the adapter properly at the bottom, I can see there is a gap between caliper and the adapter, I can see the threads of the bolt, this is incorrect, please correct this before riding the bike again.
You should have went for the Shimano mt500. Or mt501 for quad ceramic piston calipers. Way better value. Half the price brand new. Very very good brakes. Noticeably better than whatever was on there before.
Not sure if that is really a good test of stopping power - the limit of how fast you can stop on a paved road is probably the grip of the tires, not the power of the brakes. The difference I guess is that you need less hand power as input to achieve the same result, and therefore on longer descents the more powerful brakes will leave you less fatigued.
Very true. I didn't realize that until weeks later. I made a season 2 of this series, just posted the first 2 episodes. I hope you'll check it out to see if I did any better!
I'd say, any xt 4 pot equivalent is a good brake. If you like the bling of carbon blades, your best bet would be to buy the xtr levers, if you want to bling hard splash out for some mt5/mt7 calipers with the plastic insert discs color matched to your bike's accent color. Choose mt5 to save some money, choose mt7 for all the bling. Finally, forget everything i just said, make sure your bike has 2 working brakes and go riding. See ya on the trails, fellas!
Thanks to Keeps for sponsoring this video! Head to keeps.com/EvansMTBSaga to get 50% off your first Keeps order.
Bro why a uprgrade a budget full sus , you can buy a santa cruz megatower and uprgrade for a money you spent
@@markogasha3185 santa cruzsanta cruzsanta cruzsanta cruzsanta cruzsanta cruzsanta cruzsanta cruzsanta cruzsanta cruzsanta cruzsanta cruz blah blah blah. santa cruz is overrated asf
@@ronaldd8741 No, Canyon is more overrated.
hi can u give me ur low bike hehe idonthace enough money to buy one
Si quieres el mejor freno shimano xt + pinzas magura mt5
yall talking like 400 bucks is a bargain lmao
Mountain biking isn’t cheap so yes it is
@@Arykperry Nah, even for mountain biking this is expensive.
2:26 Fluid escaping through the vent hole. The membrane in the reservoir is probably damaged or misalligned.
In these brakes (as well as Hope Tech3/4) the mambrane also acts as a seal for the reservoir's lid. So if you put too much pressure in the reservoir, the membrane gets stretched too much and the sealing function is disturbed.
I had this problem with trickstuff brakes I had to replace the membrane
@@mehdi2pac1 then you didn’t bleed them well and destroyed it.
Honestly man I been here since the beginning and I’m glad to see what an amazing content creator you have become. IMO you have one of the best bike content channels on UA-cam at this moment. Can’t wait to see you grow even bigger.
Thanks Jonathan, that's a huge compliment. I hope to keep getting better and maybe even hire a camera man one day for studio stuff and even better videos
@@EvansMTBSaga goals
This comment is great, I feel exactly the same. Subbed since
Facts
same me too
Really looking forward to the finale. I'm predicting that the law of diminishing returns will be the major lesson when it's all finished.
Depends. Yes apart from the drivetrain and maybe dropper the expensive stuff will be better. BUT how much?
In case of Shimano brake's for example xtr aren't really better than SLX considering how much more they cost.
Oh baby! I've got a set of Hayes Dominion A4's on their way to me as we speak. Lookin' forward to Maximum Brake-i-Tude.
I love my dominions. Literally the best brake I’ve used
Next upgrade gonna be the frame itself.
Kudos to your series, never thought a 3k bike is still a "lowbike"
With a full squish you gotta spend 3grand or something maybe 2,5k new to get something very good that you don't have to throw upgrades at instantly.
If you can find a good deal on a frame you like you MIGHT be able to get away cheaper with going used or cheaper in some cases.
I did go for mid Level suspension (a revelation wanted to get a Yari but got this Revelation with 100km on it for half the new price) on my Hardtail and 11spd instead of 12spd with a 11-46 cassette and i have SLX 4piston brake's which you can find on Hardtails that are a grand more than my Bike. So if you are smart you can get a good bike cheaper.
Like Kaede said 2.5-3k is the cheapest full suspension bike you can buy that is not a pile of crap. 1.5-2k for decent hardtail. If your starting out and can't spend that get a used bike that retailed for at least those prices.
btw just letting you know, upgrading/ getting all the parts and building a bike yourself from the frame will ALWAYS be more expensive than buying pre-built
My piston fell out too when I bled my Magura brakes! Such a pain in the ass cause you have to start everything over again. And as a beginner mechanic it was already quite an involved job.
Did you not have the bleed blocks in? Magura's are really easy to bleed, if a bit different from others. Unless you're needing to flush the brake with all new fluid, most of the time you can just do a vacuum bleed from the lever. The biggest mistake I see is people over tightening the bleed port screw on the lever.
It all felt too fast. I'm not quite ready to watch this series come to an end. This was a really fun series and educational at the same time. I hope I can see a sequel to this series in the near future!
I would have gone for the Shimano mt520/501 as they are sub 100$ extremely powerful 4 pot brakes
And more then enough to most of ppl. Even on bike park rides.
Yea I've had them and they'll outbrake the traction on pavement, so why do you need better brakes?
There's something about heat dissipation but big rotors and brake management will help, only if you're hanging hard on the brakes at high speeds for 10+ minutes at a time you really need better brakes. and I've found not braking that much makes me go faster.
These are definitely sleeper brakes. I have the two piston setup and they feel and stop great. I'll upgrade the front to a four piston at some point (couldn't find stock at the time).
@@sakkek5349 I have tried them and they arent that good. My 2 piston brakes stop better than these
@@unknownuser39999 why would you make this comment and not even think to mention what your two pots are....
When i swapped my 2 piston tektro brakes to a 4 piston saint brake, i noticed a massive differnce in performance i think the change was so worth it
Imagine what a hopetech mono 6 ti caliper would be like, thing will probably send you flying with the stopping power that is has.
@@xxfyrezgamerxx6279 wish that i could find a much bigger rotor, would help much too.
@@dh_filip624 look on Ebay, quite a nice few rotors and other branded brakes going at nice prices.
@@xxfyrezgamerxx6279 Hope doesn't have more stopping power than Shimano Saint.
Incredible brakes, but you're buying them for the adjustability, consistency and build quality. Not sheer stopping power.
Saints Are Awesome I have them on my CF Warden 203Floaters And MTX Pads ..... EXCELLENT SetUp😎 I Ride Vancouver 🙂
Imagine the high-end bike parts on a s-works stumpjumper frame, Evan that would be the dreammm!!
That's probably his plan haha
I actually worked at a Specialized store and we put for one customer his set of Maximas (he waited 1,5 years... 😅) on his S-Works Kenevo... Yeah, "deammm!!" is a pretty accurate description...😁😅👌
I dont think the Stumpjumper frame would be an Upgrade though .. that geometry is Like 7 years old
@@sebastianeiselt37 still fairly modern for the type of riding it's made for, reach and wheel base for example.
@@HarryL2020 the EVO... Maybe.
The normal Stumpjumpers geometry was modern in 2015...
So happy to see your channel grow, been here for a long time and the production quality is amazing. You deserve every bit of success you achieve :)
This series has been amazing! Love the content man keep up the awesome work!
This video is amazing! Really happy to see your content get higher and higher quality. Great video!
Been lucky enough to ride two sets of maximas, once in the alps and another time on an ebike. I usually use code rsc and the trickstuff are on another level to codes and I’ve never once had an issue with the codes. But the lever feel and the power of the maximas together with their power pads which I now run no other brake can touch. No fade and the lever throw is so short and light you hardly have to use any effort with braking, takes some getting used to first time I rode with them I braked just before a berm and nearly went OTB 😂 in Europe they are not as pricey as the US but still well over €1000 a set. IMO they are worth the cash, I’ve raved about them for the last year since trying them but sadly I’m a poor so won’t ever get to own my own set just borrow my friends bike when he’s feeling kind.
This is the first episode where I'm going to have to disagree on the low side as it's still too expensive tbh. Dominions ain't cheap used either. Comparison for you is I've had Sram guide, Shimano 4 pots and Hope E4 brakes for under £200. Still other than that it's great broski
yea, this is kind of a nonsense comparison. Hes comparing really good brakes to fancy ones. Obviously the difference is marginal
Haha I'd definitely consider Hayes dominion high level already. Low bike could have gone for a shimano mt520, probably the lowest cost you could go for great power.
@@dylan-5287 great choice. Those mt520 are probably the best price/performance ratio I've ever got out of a brake. New too. Used it's even better dealio. They felt just like saint or zee to me
@@hiigara2085 I'm a big fan of shimano brakes. Got a Zee in the front and basic mt401 in back. Their four piston brakes are super powerful. Gotta love the price to performance ratio.
Cant wait for next episode keep doing what youre doing its great
From this series this channel is growing. Keep this work up and hopefully you will reach 100k end of this year best of luck.
I love how much this reminds me of the donut media series. Great job!!!
FRRRRR
even the music at the start is the same
I’d love to see a comparison video between high bike and a equivalent stock $10,000 bike it’d put things in better perspective
For value I gotta go for magura mt thirty. An mt5 except with a plastic lever blade (replaceable with an mt7 lever blade). Effectively a pair of mt7s for ~280 with some gently used hc lever blades.
Just use SHIMANO Deore, SLX or XT Brakelever with mt5 calipers. The are the beasts!
@@Huzanicz that's what im doing! Had xt m8000 on my knolly warden from when I got it, and the mt thirty is the cheapest way to get the mt5 caliper, and it has semi metallic pads, and comes with plenty of fresh brake line!
Since i have heard many ppl having stuck pistons on Magura i avoid em... Maybe great when the work but i rather stick to my SLX 4pot with koolstop pads.
@@kaedeschulz5422 never had that happen to me or any of the boys 🤷♂️
@@kaedeschulz5422 the magura pistons don’t stick. What you’re referring to is air trapped in the caliper keeping the pistons from working. Hydraulics don’t like air in the system at all. The air absolutely ruins maguras reputation from lousy bike mechanics. Once you get the air out all the pistons work in harmony and the MT series brakes are absolute dreams.
Shimano Deore or above for sure for budget builders - super cheap to maintain, super cheap to buy (my four piston XT brakeset were 100 quid), and definitely strong enough - if it's good enough for downhill racers, its good enough for you!
With that said, great video as usual!
My deore m6120 4 pot breaks bent my 203mm disk adapter and bcs it was bent my front caliper broke.
Would have gone for SLX 4 piston here and koolstop pads.
Not sure if the M6120 deore are any worse. When shopping for part's the Deore weren't in stock so i took the SLX again like on my last bike.
@@fackerhidonbush8420 WTF!? What adapter was it?
@@kaedeschulz5422 original from shimano. I swaped it with one from aliexpress now. My problem is that i had too much stopping power with ceramic pads which are great.
@@fackerhidonbush8420 Too much is always better than not enaugh in this case :D I will swap tje stock ones in my SLX for Pads from koolstop. Ridden them once on a friend's bike and WOW! I NEED THOSE!
It would be interesting to see the "budget" breaks with a steel flex housing in comparsion.
people say you don't feel it. I'm running saints and i can definately tell which brake has the flex housing. since a friend is running my exact same bike same brakes with the regular braking hoses.
I have the Hayes A4s on my enduro, very happy with them! Even on downhill courses my brakes never crossed my mind, they do their job prpperly. Got them for a nice discount too, about €350 for the set.
Cant wait for the finale this series has been awesome
5:08 I recommend to apply a drop of thread locker to create a bond between the surfaces. It makes a difference, I've tested it.
TRICKSTUFF speaking: Sometimes reading (and following) the manual helps! We are happy that our brakes are featured in such a video, but the author's bleed process was not perfect. I can promise: If they are bled and installed correctly every user has been satisfied up to date.
Hello Klaus! The bleed process was difficult. On a follow up video, I finally nailed the bleed process to perfection with the proper oil and proper bleed block. The bleed felt like a skill I had to perfect 🤣. But it also helped me bleed other brakes after that. I did test your brakes against Shigura, and the trickstuff are definitely the most powerful.
@@EvansMTBSaga did you really use that oil ?. lol
Moin Klaus
I fully understand klaus point here. You did not even use the right oil that is recommended for the brakes. The Bleeding and the oil are the most important parts to get right for a good performance. I feel like this lack of effort is really a shame since you were ready to spend 2000 Dollars on those brakes. @Evans MTB Saga
I HIGHLY doubt 100% of customers are satisfied. That's an incredibly suspicious claim to make.
Those original mt201 are actually worthy of competition in the highest level. Change pads to semi metallic, rotors need replaced to be compatible with semi metallics. Then bleed them really really good. They are amazing after that
8:19 You can add rubber tape on the levers or use anti slip/grip tape, but rubber tape won't wear your gloves as fast. I had Tesa anti slip tape, but now I am trying Marsh Guard Slapper Tape.
all lever blades I've tried are slippery compared to rubber. Formula has a tiny texture to it, but still not super grippy.I think Formula is a good alternative to these brakes. But I've not tried these brakes.
Dip your brake levers in liquid rubber after you've done some roughing to the surface. You can buy second hand levers if you feel unsure you want to do this. The finished item will last you quite a while, and when it does eventually brake, you can just take it off, and repeat the process again. Buy the best liquid rubber kit on the market, don't skimp on it and yes, the rough surface is a must for this, you can't do it on the smooth surface, it will come off. I used a bastard file to roughen up my levers, using its edge to make a bastardized rhombus pattern on them. It's vital that you do the surface where your fingers land, the edges where it goes on the back and the tip of the lever arm. The gaps and sides aren't as important. Depending on what liquid rubber kit you buy, you can even have texture (small chunks of rubber embedded into the liquid rubber).
These kits are mainly for making your own rubberized handles on tools.
@@aserta Great advice. thx for sharing. Not something I have to do now, as I upgraded the levers to RG Components, they have bearings, holes in the lever blade for the fingers to grip.
I don't know why Trickstuff nor Formula did this.
I've never understood parts maximizing to brakes. Just about any brakes these days (of the appropriate size for the bike/trail) are totally fine for setting corner entry speed and even panic braking on trail you'll lock 'em up. The argument can be made for feel/engagement if you're a finesse braker but otherwise I can't get my head around $1k+ on brakes when you could spend that money on suspension, tires, etc. Note that I'm a reasonably fast rider that does a lot of park and shuttle. I'm not anti-brakes. ;)
I could not disagree with you more. I have own & have ridden in lots of terrain, by far my Hayes A4 are miles better than Sram Guide. I've not owned a shimano 4 piston, but many other shimano brakes. Once you run a better brake, you are actually a faster rider. seems counter intuitive, but you can enter corners later with a better brake, less fade & the Hayes have the nicest lever feel out of anything I've worked on or owned.
@@nicksonsbikeski440 I've run a lot of different brakes on my bikes over the years. Never once have I swapped brakes and added seconds to a trail time and I GPS track every ride. I think if you're adding seconds by swapping brakes you either didn't have enough brake to begin with (not brand specific) or a certain brand gives you a feel that adds more confidence. The latter isn't necessarily the other brake's fault as long as it had appropriate power, the rider just didn't adapt to it. I'm personally just brake agnostic. It's not that they don't have some slightly different feel, it's just that given enough stopping power I'm not bothered by the feel and get used to them after a ride or two and not a second thought after that.
I ride 10000% more confident when I know I can stop and I also knew I won’t overheat them
i could disagree, speed comes from bike being set up the way you like it which comes at a cost. sure cheaper brakes are good but top level brakes are so much better. i run a 29er super enduro norco range hp and had it come with some low level shimanos and they could barely stop it i put my saints on it is so much better. upgrading brakes are my go to because suspension is always smooth nowadays no matter the model
@@bigslacker666 Brakes make a huge difference in decending capability. especially on super steep trails, like horseface, or when going 30 mph on a downhill into a hairpin turn, brakes make a huge difference.
You’ve probably already noticed/fixed it, but your front brake on the low-end bike wasn’t mounted properly. There’s a lot of space between the calliper and the brake mount. Check 9:05
Jeez, that’s terrifying. What’s happening is that the adaptor doesn’t dip low enough, and you can see that the caliper is bottoming out on the adaptor, so the lower bolt couldn’t be fully tightened.
That’s really scary to see.
This UA-cam channel is so underrated keep up the good vids
This has been amazing! Well done!
i have been following this series and enjoying it so far mainly because of the good choices of parts to compare, coming from the disappointment from PB's version.
but I have to say this episode is something I have to nitpick which is the choice for the low bike.
Even though you bought it 2nd hand and cheaper from SRP, Dominion A4 is by no means a low tier "budget" brake price and performance wise so for me it looks like you're just comparing a high tier brake vs a super premium thus the essence of how a budget build feels vs a premium one is not present.
I was expecting more of a deore quads level kind of, so you can really compare and see if the premium price is worth it.
sorry for the essay lol, just saying how I feel.
I love this vids I’ve been waiting for this one
Nice videos mate! I've been waiting for this so long! ❤️
I’ve had a set of Code Rs with MTX red label pads for two years. No problems and very consistent performance on big mountain trails here in Colorado.
Just installed the MTX pads myself on Code R's. Can't wait to try them out.
Most people change brakes because they want a different feel and consistent bite point over stopping power. Just changing the disc and pads can make a drastic difference to the feel. Ive never tried a stopping test like that but to be honnest I expected more weight transfer under heavy braking.
Loved this series!
Magura mt5 2 Pistons is a Good Upgrade shimano slx or if you can find a good pair on shimono deore xt 4 piston breaks
> mt5 2 Pistons
have you been drinking
Those expensive brakes wile shine here in Switzerland when you decent from 3300m to 800m (10826 feet - 2624 feet). with the "cheap" ones you will have to stop a couple of times to let them cool down :)
Cheers
It's more complex than that. It includes fluid, brake pad composition, tires, weight of bike and rider... It's just not that simple. Also this test isn't scientific to my satisfaction unfortunately although it's fun to watch.
Mann
U video are the best broo i watch u video alot
Is great love from 🇲🇾
Finally!!
New video after 13days
Excellent job, Evan!
I caught a sale and upgraded the MT200 brakes on my Marin Rift Zone 2 to Deore XT BL-M8100 levers and BR-M8120 4 piston calipers front and rear. I also upgraded crap rotors to MT800 rotors. I know 4 piston in rear is a bit overkill but with the sale only paid $280 for levers, calipers, and rotors both front and rear!
Keeps hair team on standby 24/7 for hair emergencies! You gotta love it.........
I’ve never even new that breaks could be that expensive
Yea i expected like a grand MAX
@@kaedeschulz5422 They are a grand in Europe.
@@NOUS123ONE Still crazy
@@kaedeschulz5422 Machined and engineered completely in Germany. Thats just what labour here costs.
We are just too used to cheap mass produced stuff made in China.
@@NOUS123ONE True. Still a lot of money tho
I am just loving these videos hoping I run into you on the trails!
4:42 I have Formula Cura 4, I did not need this tool, I only needed housing cutter and my fingers to push the insert in the hose. With Shimano I could not do that I had to use pliers and hose clamping blocks provided with the brakes.
Greetings from Germany✌ nice to see someone using Trickstuff brakes :) as a Maxima owner i can tell how frustrating it can be to bleed these brakes. But when you're doing it right they are way ahead of any other brakes on the market. Maybe you should try the Trickstuff Rotors for best performance. The Maxima should stop you way earlier than the Hayes
Oh nice to hear you have them too! I heard that the Maxima have a very long bed in process
To be fair, there shouldnt be much diference at a first stop. Its basically tires and surface that limits you. When you really need good brakes is a long downhill section where some brakes might experience extensive fading due to the heat.
@@EvansMTBSaga yes you should take some time to properly bed them in. I had the Code Rsc, Magura MT7 and even the Trickstuff Direttissima. But when they launched the Maxima...i had to have them. I dont know if you want to keep the brakes after the projekt, but they will be worth every cent and will do a good..no..the best job for many years. Like you said the quality is above everyzhing else
One finger setup is a must.I refuse to use anythign else. The brakes with bite/contact adjustment are nice, but there are tricks to get the bite point where you want after setting reach. Overall that's all that sets apart the brakes for me. Pads I use the same combo on every bike. One side is semi, one organic. This mixed approach covers contamination issues with the surface. No matter what brake I use once I adapt to it, there is no change in my stopping power.
Finely I was wait you to uploaded
Had a new Saint M820 leaking and didn’t knew. Took me 2 sets of pads to figure it out…… Riding the XTR M9120 now and did not have any problems 🙏🏻
Sometimes I think companies charge too much money for what they sell, I bought the wildwood 6 piston calipers with race spec bushings and 2 piece rotors and pads included for my COBRA for $1700 brand new ,and some of these bike parts cost more than a used Honda civic lol 😆.
I’m genuinely glad brad used sunflower oil instead of bionol oil, use what you got!
My favourite content creator🥰
Amazing editing and video can’t wait for the final episode. Question, when the series finishes will you keep the parts on the bikes or change them around to different bikes like the nucleus or d7
I love your video like actually keep it up
Have Dominions on my Intense Tazer ebike and my Ibis Ripmo AF and I absolutely LOVE them! Best upgrade I made on the ebike!
It’s crazy that the you went from upgrading your wife’s mountain bike with a $100 Chinese fork to a $2000 brakes. I would have gone with sram or Shimano brakes but its interesting to see some more variety. What do you plan on doing with the bikes now that they are finished?
Just put some lever grips in those things should probably solve the slippery problem on the lever and it feels nice too just like what seth said
i love the expensive vs cheap content so much
We gotta help get Evans mtb channel up to Seth's level also the shredist both heavily underrated channels imo!
Thanks dude that's a big compliment!
hopefully in the final episode he gets a new frame
🤣
definitely better than pinkbike you should do more of this but the goal is is expensive more lighter or nah
im waitng for more episodes keep it up man
I did some math taking into consideration the two masses, and the difference (in Newtons) in stopping power is really thin. I don't know about the disc diameters, but if you put a smaller one for the cheapest brakes, the amount of force the pistons had to impress on the rotor is greater for the cheapest brakes.
I feel like the comparison between the two is flawed. I haven't seen the whole series on high / low, but I think I get the concept. In my opinion, a proper comparison would have been testing both sets on the same bike. I assume these Bikes have different wheels and tires ? That alone is a huge variable. Test them on the same bike, it doesn't matter which one, and then Install them on the high / low bikes afterwards to tally up the costs totals. This test didn't really compare anything except for cost. All it did was show how each brake worked for the setup it was installed on.
the series is about low vs high budget bike so they naturally have different setups to compare the bike as a whole, not just the brakes or a particular part. else it would just have been a comparison review.
@@NatNetNitNotNut I understand and accept that argument. However, the title is literally "Are $2k brakes better than $400 brakes."
@@niz989 true. I didnt really notice the title because i've been following this series which in context is about 2 differently priced bikes.
However the dominion is really not appropriate for a low budget build so im not happy with this episode.
Swap the brakes, then swap again... You're insane.
Love my Hayes, so much adjustment and incredible stopping power.
Thank you for commenting, I am thinking about getting the A4's would you recommend for downhill focused riding?
@@orestisvas7277 absolutely. I own on my personal bike & have sold quite a few Hayes. Wonderful brake.
@@orestisvas7277 100%. I have a set on my enduro bike and they’re a dream.
@@orestisvas7277 I agree, I ride some steep stuff and they are pretty fade resistant.
@@vashusan1984 thanks
TLDR: Buy middle grade components - unless you’re making a living from racing or have money to burn.
Still interesting to see the comparisons. Way better than Pinkbike!
Did you read my finale script? 🤣
I looked up all type of oils and I found out they're all the same if used correctly. I was thinking about experimenting on using cooking oil too since they're all high temp boiling point. I found out peanut oil, saf flower oil have the highest boiling point.
I love my Hayes brakes, and bought a 2nd pair for my other bike. I'm also sort of doing high low bike ut my low bike have all the chinese parts from aliexpress lol. Real budget bikes!
First and foremost, respect for an amazing series regarding both content and quality 👌 Your going the extra mile here finding some serially good bang for the buck on the low bike and simultaneously totally spoiling the high bike.
I'm curious if the difference in the bikes weight, especially wheel weight, could offset some of the braking results, cause you do run the same tyres right? That said I'm sure the Trickstuff is awfully powerful! Personally I'm eying up the Dominions as an upgrade for my Guide RSC:s and this didn't put me off.
Hollow claims.
I was a test rider for Frank industries out of engelsbrand in Germany.these were in 2007 the best brakes in the world and still are. They were used mon a 150horsepower race bike initially. Unfortunately a few suppliers put Frank industries in bankruptcy. I still ride mine, 230/210mm disc
. The brake design is still up for sale....
These videos are getting sooo many views. Nice to see your channel growing and probably paying off the cash for the high bike 😂
Yeah it's pretty much breaking even!
I like the video, but i don't think hayes is the right brake for a comparison. It's a flagship brake and it's not that cheap after all. Imo you should've picked something more budget and popular on the trails like 4-piston shimanos or MT5 for a proper comparison
Excited for the finale. I have watched all episodes. Ive got the same siskiu d5 bike and slowly upgraded the parts and transformed it to a 3300 usd bike.😄
pure waste of money
@@byp4ss514 explain
Great video. I've used some mildly expensive brakes on my bikes. Shimano xtr 2 piston got my XC bike and sram code rsc for my enduro. Crazy to think that there are better and/or more expensive brakes than the RSC's out there
Ever seen or tried Magura MT7? Those are literally the best in their price category
@@leomit5o from what's I've heard yes. I haven't tried them. If I decide to upgrade in the future I will but as of right now the code rsc's don't have any negatives for me and have more than enough stopping power....especially since I'm 150lbs.
@@sebterranean6258 I actually am running them and had them after RSCs. They have quite a lot more power and are a bit more aggressive imo
@@leomit5o They are great until for some reasons the master cylinder starts leaking. Idk if i was unlucky, but i had one bad from the factory, they didn't really have a replacement so i went the shigura route. Cost me more than i had hoped but it's really the best brake i have tried so far.
@@seven9766 heard a few people having the same problem. Never had it myself though
The expensive brake might have more stopping power, but I don't see how power alone translates to shorter stopping distance.
I've had 2 relatively low end MTB's with hydraulic disc brakes now. The first were absolutely cheap brakes from tektro, now I'm on something from Shimano.
None of those lacked stopping power in any shape or form, both were/are easily capable of either locking the front wheel or sending me over the bars at all time.
So maybe the expensive ones had better feel so he could manage the stoppie better?
Also i'd be interested how accurate the speed was, when starting to brake each time.
I have 2 piston tektro brakes, weight 200 pounds, brake with one finger and can block the wheels if I want too. I don't see how I need to waste money on something "better".
it looks like my hope tech 2 that is 10 years old and never had a bleed are better than both of these brakes. nice video, i'm keeping my brakes.
I just got Hayes A4s. Ordered the bleed kit on Sunday from Lost Co, received it yesterday (Wednesday), so not a problem to get, in my experience. Did you fine tune your A4 calipers using the set screws?
Suggestion: plastidip your brake levers. I did this on my bikes back in 2000 and it's still perfect today after many, many thousands of miles. Use liquid Plastidip (used for coating tool handles to get better grip) and dip your brake levers a few times. You can even choose what color plastidip to use. It works amazingly well, no more finger slipping on brake levers. I've also done the touch points on shifter and dropper levers on my new bike.
He didn't fine tune anything, you can clearly see the mount for the caliper is touching the caliper itself and the brake isn't even tight on the fork, major safety issue
While I had Hayes brakes I always used the cross hair system, it was great, however not as great as Hope brakes
@@lexusstefan927 hayes brakes are way better than hope
Those 400 dollar brakes are more than my bike... What do you mean cheap??
I have a set of the Dominion A4 and it's a lot more of a brake for quite the same price as MT7, Code RSC or Saint.
However, I've never tried the Trickstuff...
But even if I did try and find them the best, yet I won't spend so much for brakes 🙄
have you tried the mt7? interested to know how they compare to the a4 overall
@@jamble7k
The MT7 is quite similar to the A4 in terms of performance; the main advantage of the A4 is absolutely fantastic lever feel and ergomonics.
The MT7's lever isn't that comfy (and Magura's brake overall)
I can't believe that ur my age and spent 2k on used brakes and to top it off use regular sunflower oil to fill/bleed em. Hats off dear sir
Something about a set of 2 grand set of brakes using Wal-Mart sunflower oil is funny to me.
Wow you have come a long way. I've been here since 200 subs. BTW you need to keep the pads cooler when bedding them in. a simple squirt of water will do the job after each run.
04:20 Some online shops might have Hayes hoses and parts, but I've not looked into it. But Jagwire is probably a good choice.
I recently finished a resto/upgrade of my '05 GT Ruckus i-drive and when it came to deciding what brakes to go for I decided to go moto and run SLX - M7100 2-pot rear and M7120 4-pot front with RT-86 rotors. It's so stupid it works, and works well 🤣
9:04 the caliper is loose, it's not secured to the adapter properly at the bottom, I can see there is a gap between caliper and the adapter, I can see the threads of the bolt, this is incorrect, please correct this before riding the bike again.
You should have went for the Shimano mt500. Or mt501 for quad ceramic piston calipers. Way better value. Half the price brand new. Very very good brakes. Noticeably better than whatever was on there before.
MT520 is the quad piston one.
ngl that intro feels like the donut media intro for their hi-low series
strange comparison test. The rotor had to be lapped in with each new braking pad to better fit into the rotor.
Not sure if that is really a good test of stopping power - the limit of how fast you can stop on a paved road is probably the grip of the tires, not the power of the brakes. The difference I guess is that you need less hand power as input to achieve the same result, and therefore on longer descents the more powerful brakes will leave you less fatigued.
in 9:04 is clearly visible how bad you install front calliper with wrong adaptor so theres a gap between them on lower mount
Very true. I didn't realize that until weeks later. I made a season 2 of this series, just posted the first 2 episodes. I hope you'll check it out to see if I did any better!
Should have went with slx 4 pots they were value
Good test. I went with the Hayes, but the T versions since they're lighter.
The dominions are absolutely unbeatable!
The braided brake lines look awesome
Yeah they're rad! And they fit on my next frame!
I'd say, any xt 4 pot equivalent is a good brake.
If you like the bling of carbon blades, your best bet would be to buy the xtr levers, if you want to bling hard splash out for some mt5/mt7 calipers with the plastic insert discs color matched to your bike's accent color. Choose mt5 to save some money, choose mt7 for all the bling.
Finally, forget everything i just said, make sure your bike has 2 working brakes and go riding. See ya on the trails, fellas!
Sram guide underpowered small pistons. 203mm rotor helps
The stopping percentage differences is about the same as the bikes weights differences. Switch bikes , and re-test.
I would’ve used hope tech 3 for the cheap upgrade. You can buy them for about 300$ used and they’re by far my favourite brakes of all time.
Nicely put! Id definitely let you ride it. It's a pretty fun system