Bespoke Shoe Making Process: Measurements | Dominic Casey | Kirby Allison
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
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Kirby Allison, Founder of Hanger Project, stops by LastMaker House in Eastbourne to get started on a bespoke pair of shoes. Dominic Casey, renowned last maker, and bespoke shoemaker go through the process of getting the foot measurements to make a last for a bespoke shoe.
He looks like he's been drawn out of a book. One I'd want to read.
I believe it was "Harry Potter and the Fallen Arches"
Inkheart for me
This is an interesting glimpse into the parallel economy that exists for rich people. There's an entire economy of dedicated businesses like this, which exist only for the rich and could never survive in the regular competitive economy. This is the luxury economy, with specialized shops and saavy craftsmen who have built their entire livelihoods around the art of separating rich folks from their money. I find the whole phenomenon fascinating.
Although I respect the craftsmanship, refinement, time/dedication, etc. that goes into hand making such goods, your comment is on the money.
As a tradesman I know that as the highest level is the highest skill and craftsmanship. This is common buy the average Joe wont see most of those businesses for sure
This whole ultra fancy individualised attention super thorough measurements stuff is definitely for the rich. However if you look at the prices of branded trainers/sneakers and how able and willing "regular" people are to spend money on them kind of shows that the money is there to support a (slightly less attentive) bespoke shoe business. Add to this the fact that it is rare for those popular branded shoes to be manufactured in a way where they can be repaired endlessly and it actually becomes more cost effective to have shoes made. Properly made shoes can be repaired (relatively cheaply) will literally last a lifetime.
Terry Pratchett mentioned the irony of it in one of his books, that the rich can afford to live more cheaply than the common man. Because they can more easily afford the up front costs of a quality product. Sure it costs more, but they only ever have to buy it once. Regular people have to go for the "good enough" that they can afford, but have to replace their stuff endlessly and spend more money in the long run than the rich do.
Well said, and that’s the nail in the class warfare coffin that old Mbaxter22 tries to put forth.
The wearer of $1000 Yeezy sneakers is concerned about style and fad..
Kirby is concerned about materials used, fit and longevity of the product.
The former drives multi-million dollar ad campaigns with the latest influencer or sports personality wearing the sneaker because it’s cool.
The latter involves a small shop, one of a small handful of craftsman in the world that can hand make shoes and a customer dedicated to quality that’s willing to seek it out.
Yes it makes me think of the Sam Vimes boot theory and how it’s more expensive to be poor
I enjoyed that even before Dominic began measuring your feet he gathered so much information from the inside of your existing shoes. He seemed so precise and methodical. How he was able to stay squatted so long. I have flat feet and I just keep thinking how that play out if I was lucky enough to be in your position. Can't wait to see more. Another great video Kirby thanks.
Paul Castellano Yes! We have some additional videos with him we’ll be releasing soon. Very talented shoemaker!
Nearly headless Nick seems to be doing really well for himself after that whole Voldemort thing.
Expound please
hahaha looks just like him.
It’s bothered me since I’ve found this video cause I couldn’t figure out who he reminded me of. Thank you my anxiety is at peace now LOL
Lol
DONT SAY HIS NAME
Having someone touch your foot and draw around it---I'm getting goose bumps
If you have bespoke inlays being made by an orthopaedic you can experience this first-hand (or rather first-foot😊) at a fraction of the cost compared to a whole shoe.
I am intrigued that sharing this kind of knowledge and videos can be so rewarding that it allows Mr Allison to have so many bespoke shoes and bespoke wardrobe (and of course his sales through his website). All of his items are V pricey and deeply adorable. V lovely and rewarding profession.
Not sure how I got here...but I am always interested in old ways of doing things. GREAt video and thegentleman was wonderful and expalined everything in great detail.
did you type this comment with your face?
It's 1AM and I'm watching a video on a guy making shoes
This is the time of day I watch this kind of stuff too lol
Me too!
You don’t have to have a foot fetish to be watching these videos, but it helps
It helps to sleep tho
Literally four years later I am doing the same thing lmao at 1 am
3:57 look at that classic ipod! great memories!
Yes, Mr. Allison, please never stop!
I wouldnt be surprised if he said "I also need to smell the foot in order to understand the heat levels that come from the soles. I smell each foot individually because it helps me understand if there are different heat levels eminating from the foot. This information will help me choose the appropriate type of leather to match the smell. I also need to taste the foot because [fill in the blank fake measurement bs]"
Too too funny.
I shouldnt have read this comment. Now I cant watch this video without thinking he's going to do that XD
Any scientific research condones this for quality but not quality control
Leo ROFL
Ben Shapiro learned from the master
This Maker see's with his hands, an takes a physical photo in his mind with his hands an eyes... I Kno this last will be amazing.. As his understanding of the bone structure of your foot will relate to the structure of the bespoke shoes... Excited for it Kirby Sir !? Kudos the 2 of ya..!
I bought a pair of boots in Clarks and they fitted beautifully
"we are going to measure your feet now..." picks up something that looks like a hammer.
The playlist is out of order😢
Bespoke shoes, one of the perks of being seriously wealthy.
Not really. A simple calculation of things what people spend money on which are not needed gives $10,000 a year for people who are not wealthy. Cigarettes, alcohol, junk food. These can easily cost $10,000 a year. Anyone can have have bespoke shoes. The only advantage that the wealthy have is they do not need to save for it, where a poor person would need to save.
Jacob Kauffman fuck off
@@rankoss3437 Thank you kind for your reply.
@@yacovlevi A pack of cigarettes a day is estimated to cost less than $2500 per year. Only a serious alcoholic (or someone buying very expensive alcohol) could get near $10k on drinks per year. And many middle-class and lower eat junk food because it's actually LESS expensive than eating healthy. America, one of the richest per capita countries in the world, has a median income of about $31,000. Obviously, no responsible/sane parent making at or below median income ever would or should buy a $10k pair of shoes.
But I would challenge you to find anywhere NEAR $10k of disposable income from even your average single American struggling to afford taxes, rent, car payments, insurance, food, etc. And then I would challenge you to find any possible reason that money should be invested in a pair of bespoke shoes rather than an index fund.
@@bryancouillard2016 Hello sir. Good afternoon. Thank you so very much for your kind and interesting reply to my post.
I do though strongly disagree with your comments. Firstly, I live in Manhattan. Cigarettes start at $15 before tax a packet. 1-2 packets a day in average. Let's say $15.50 after tax. $15.50 x 365 days = $6,022.50 or $12, 045 for 2 packets.
But as a fair person I am, I will take your $2,500. Do you agree a person can save the $2,500 for 4 years for a bespoke pair of shoes which cost $10,000? If a person can spend $2,500 a year on cigarettes which are damaging their health then why do you think they cannot quit and save that money for a pair of bespoke shoes?
Love Dominic‘s boots
Is there a second video showing the actual carving and the shoes? Curious to see the final products
ryan robicheaux We have two more videos with Dominic in production. One of him beginning to carve the last (incredible) and an interview with the reveal of the completed last.
That's a really old iPod.
I still use mine too
Probably moore Gb then the new ones.
This guy is an Einstein when it comes to shoe measurements! He said “triangulate”
Love your Dominic Casey videos!
That guy should put some pad things under his knees to save them
lmaooooo
Their knee pads would cost £1000s. Each.
Why not just cast the foot with gypsum to have exact copy of the foot by side all the time?
Ruins the socs
This kind of shoe making is a fairly antique craft. It seems more about demonstrating the shoemaker's traditional skills and crafts rather than anything scientific.
Because you can't tack the upper part of the shoe down with nails in gypsum.. It would just crumble away
The weight of his feet is needed to measure his foot more accurate because when you apply force under of his feet, his feet begin to expand, that's why weight is important to get the exact measurements of his foot.
Establishing some shoes here
Super interesting video Kirby, interesting that I have very similar sized feet to you, along with slim ankle and also the prominent cuneiform, which in oxfords causes me discomfort. Have never considered bespoke, because in general G&G TG73 (along with Alfred sergeants 724) fit me fairly superbly out of the box, but I find many shoes simply don't have a narrow enough ankle, or a comfortable instep. I'd be interested to know how you've got on with off the shelf G&G lasts compared to your bespoke shoes.
Shrink1061 You might consider Saint Crispin’s. They’re able to really do some significant last modifications within their Made to order stuff they can accommodate these types of problems.
The Hanger Project yes, I’ve given them a look a few times along with speaking to Vass as well. I do enjoy the G&G shoes I own though and they’re the closest I’ve had to a bespoke fit on an off the shelf shoe, with only a little too much leather on the vamp to complain of.
Just wondering why shoemakers don't make a quick set plaster cast? Podiatrists make orthotics using plaster to get an exact copy of your feet. Why not shoemakers?
My primitive understanding is that the last makers need measurements with some weight on your feet..which makes molding a little difficult
I know absolutely nothing about how to make a shoe so this question will be peppered with ignorance. Isn't this just an extremely difficult way of making a cast of someones foot? What is achieved by this method that couldn't just as easily be achieved by making a mold or cast of a foot? Just curious to know.
Top add, the shoes do have to be big enough that you can actually put your foot into it. So leather wrapped around a casting would be too tight and lead to foot problems, if you can even get the foot in.
Additionally, generally a cobbler will generally provide you with the last so you can rest your shoe with the last in and the cedar is very good for that because it freshens the smell and absorbs moisture.
No, that's simply not true. Even if you could fit your foot into a skin tight leather shoe, which would be difficult, if you have no room in the toe box, then your shoe is going to severely injure you as you walk and rub painful corns into your toes and possibly cause compression fractures in your toes, as they would have no room to slide back and forward as you walk.
Dress shoes should fit relatively close, but defiantly need to have give around your feet, and specifically the fore end of your foot.
Well, for one thing, your for physically stretches under compression when you put your weight on it. But imagine you've just put your foot down, and you're shifting your weight onto it while bringing your heel up for the next step. All your body weight is on the front of your foot pushing it forward, and it will spring back as you pick your foot up.
Additionally, over the day, your feet swell as you walk on them through the day and become slightly larger.
So you definitely need more room in the toe box. But while you want, for instance, the quarters to be snug, you don't want them to be overly tight either, not skin tight certainly.
To amplify and summarize ketherga's points. Your foot changes shape as you walk, and it also changes shape during the day. A shoe, like a glove or a jacket, has got to balance between fitting close enough not to flop around, but loose enough to change shape as your foot changes shape. It's dynamic, and being good at fitting shoes is about 70% art, 30% science.
ketherga Do you think it would be possible to create a last by 3D scanning your foot, smoothing the model and allowing for tolerance, and then fabricating it in some way, perhaps CNC routing? Is this at all done for larger companies creating bespoke shoes?
Is he a musketeer?
Amazing 😻😻
Did he establish his shoe size though?
Just came across your channel for some reason. Glad though. Very interesting video on the process of shoe making. Also notice you're left-handed.
How does he stand it, I would be jumping, my feet are very ticklish, and with thin socks wow.
I was surprised when he did that while seated
I find watching this to e a lovely, wholesome, sensual experience.
Great video Kirby and great information. Dominic seems very engaging and interesting. i would love to have a course of bespoke shoe making in UK. do you recommend any? lastmaker seems has only last making course.
He was incredible. I'm not sure who has any courses on bespoke shoe making. I know Stefano Bremer has one in Florence, but it's quite expensive. €15,000 for six months.
Will there be a follow up video? Really interested to see the rest of the process!!
I am traveling to London in early September for the first fitting! Can't wait. I'm so excited.
The Hanger Project that’s awesome!! Can’t wait to see what they look like at that stage :D
Are lasts being made with 3D printer?
Chevrolet, zebra and honesty.
Can a shoe last be used to every other shoe you make? I mean, it's bespoke to you feet, so it stands to reason that it can be used to make all your other shoes.
As long as the style of the shoe is the same (lace up vs. casual slipper), the same last is generally used. So, every pair of lace ups would be built on the same last. This is the point of bespoke. Not only do your shoes fit better, but they all fit the same. The only exception would be if you chose to have a last made with a different toe shape (chiseled vs. round), which would require the creation of a second set of lasts.
It only takes 30 seconds to get measured up in clarkes
Yes ... Well , that would " Clark's " too wouldn't it .
Talk about taking a fetish to another level
Wouldn't it be a big step forward if you would 3D scan the customer's feet and do the measurements in a software? If you are interested, I can show you how.
Damn, homie has an IPod on the shelf
Wouldn’t it be easier to make a mould of the feet 🦶
8:20 ... 📌
that hammer lying near his foot gave me anxiety :)
edit: I just noticed it's not a hammer
I soon as I saw mallet it made me a bit anxious as well because for some weird reason I imagined the shoe maker suddenly whacking him on his foot with it for no reason. 😂
Jippeto and the greasy shoe salesman 😂
What brand of boots does the maker have on
“Your great uncle do no let me change his socks either. I just like the feet....I do not know why...” ~ Mr. Deeds. ~
I feel you are underestimating the sneakiness, Sir.
Kirby has a great ASMR voice
last make wear custom made Thom Mcanns from Kmarts
Kirby, I've been meaning to ask but had forgotten until this measurement video, do you know if bespoke shoes can work well with flat feet and overpronation? I imagine that shoes can be made for just about any type of feet, but you mentioned certain types of feet working better with certain silhouettes. So my question really is, what types of silhouettes in bespoke shoes would be better for flat feet?
A great last maker should be able to make bespoke shoes work for any pair of feet! And they'd probably be able to make something that takes better care of your flat feet.
Excellent, thank you!
I've always wondered if a person with flat feet wears shoes with arches, do they hurt your feet?
@@angelalane2136 depends on the person. Some people find them quite cushioning and comfortable.
Hand made Shoes are actually inexpensive when their wear & longevity is considered, compared to all the money wasted on countless pairs of cheap, uncomfortable & problematic Shoes. Like Mattresses & in other places where a lot of time is spent, always buy as high quality as can be afforded. It's actually a money saver.
I was wondering how much he would last and it's 7:17 🤣🤣
I wonder how much these shoes cost
Interesting....He's in England using imperial measurements
In England we always used to use imperial only and now partly / mostly use it. It depends on a person’s age. Height is always in feet and inches. Distance on roads is miles. Temperatures are weird. We use Celsius for low and older people Fahrenheit for high. I’m 53 and use imperial for almost all circumstances.
22:21 Lol
Homeboy is a craftsman in every sense of the word. Even refers to his patrons as clients.
What does kirby do for a living must be making alot of money off these videos and free stuff
This guy reminds me so much of Gaz williams
Bespoke shoes for war.
On that note, is anybody else super conscious of their foot shape now?
Got a family of wide feet, upon seeing Kirby's without shoes I'm both even more conscious and finally understanding of why everything is so narrow
13:50 lol
Why dont just use a silicon,for making copy of his leg details.
I never searched for this... but here i am
You have to love UA-cam for that...
Why couldn’t/shouldn’t you just make a silicon mold or your foot? Then use that mold to make an exact impression of your foot. Then they could use that to make the shoe
As Dominic has expressed in other videos we have done with him, and like so many other excellent shoemakers have expressed to us, shoemaking is a balance of craft and art. If you made a 3d mold of a foot, then you would end up with an unsightly shoe that looked exactly like a foot. Part of the skill of a shoemaker is crafting something that fits the foot exceptionally, but also looks aesthetically beautiful.
Another issue with making an exact mold of a foot, is that you foot changes shape during the course of a day. Even when you are standing or sitting, you foot has a different shape. A shoe that is exactly molded would only allow the form of one position.
He had a ipod in the background
Lowkey asmr 😁
A pair of bespoke Cleverly’s that “fit quite well.” For a few thousand pounds they should fit like a second skin and be radiation proof.
i think the guy has a foot fetish
find a job you like and you'll never work hard a day in your life.
after watching this now I do too
@@ethanpet113 so I need to make bespoke dildos?
well he's in the right line of work then.
MAJOR
Like having a foot surgeon do your shoes.
he has confidence in his feet and socks! I take off my sneakers, the guy falls!
Did you make this account just for this comment? lol
@@stillthepillar684 no it s true 🤪🤪🤪🤪
Great choice of person to talk to! Very engaging, interesting and down-to-earth :)
Navy Suit for War
I suspect only Dominic got red in the face.
Good thing he didn't need to apologize for his sandwich breath.
this man clearly hasnt established enough
Fight fight fight
It was your face
What a fascinating man. He speaks with the deep knowledge of long experience, and without a trace of pretension.
Bespoke shoes are for the foolish and pretentious, for on second it can not be seen what advantage can be had from them unless there are no shoes on the market that would fit.
@@CarlyWaarly "it can not be seen what advantage can be had from them" allow me to correct you. You can not see what advantage can be had from them. So they are not for you. You should be a little careful with judging from what you think is true to what is true for all of us. Those with expertise in a field will notice the most minute details - like an audio expert noticing the difference of half a percent of harmonic distortion.
at first, he seems a bit all knowing, but he is just enthusiastic
@@CarlyWaarly what an idiotic take..you're not only ignorant.. you're prob bitter you can't afford a pair.
Can I point something out to all of those who are making rude comments about this video? I doubt I will ever have bespoke shoes made, but that does not change the fact that the ready to wear shoes that the vast majority of us buy are approximations of this kind of craftsmanship. There's no reason not to appreciate it, and every reason to do so.
Here, here... Well said luv!! Nothing wrong with appreciating quality and handmade or bespoke things!! I think ppl are used to paying a high price for products made on mass in China or somewhere.. but not made by hand with your measurements an build in mind..! There was a time when each village had a shoe maker.. an tailor. In same store. I had shoes made as a child an young adult! Pick one thing to have made for you. You will treasure it care for it an yourself... Never poke fun at someone you find strange.. they may think the same of you. They're just mannered an wud never point out your flaws . Outta respect for your delicate nature to rudeness... So very Quickly😊💗!
I love your comment an agree. I am older a quite new to this phone. Lol!!
💗 Dk
LoganDC100 I worked in the footwear industry in Northamptonshire, trained as a pattern cutter. You are 100% correct in what you are saying. The production lasts we developed had to accommodate a huge variety of foot shapes and are a compromise at best. There are plenty of good quality ready to wear shoes available in loads of different constructions though, some available in width fittings too so most people should be able to find something they like that fits properly. Personally, I wouldn’t bother buying bespoke unless you can afford it or you have feet that are of dimensions that meant you couldn’t buy a good quality mass produced shoe off the shelf. Have made plenty of bespoke Goodyear Welted shoes myself in the past and fitting is a bit of a dark art. My approach was start off with an existing last in a shape the client liked. Get the person to try on a pair of shoes made on the chosen last and find out where there was pressure or the shoe felt loose. Then I’d measure the persons feet weight on and adjust the lasts accordingly. Would then make a trial pair on the modified last in the correct leather and have the client back to check the modifications had worked and that fit was acceptable. If all was good we’d go ahead and make the shoes for the client. Very rare we’d make a last completely from scratch unless the client had deformities that meant an existing last couldn’t be modified. It’s a great industry that I worked in for fifty years and I can honestly say I was learning new things right up until I retired. Cheers.
Holy shit man! EXCELLENT job not rushing and asking all the intricate parts of his foot measurements 👍🏻 This is probably the best I’ve seen because you didn’t try to play up to the UA-cam audience. A lot of times it comes off as insincere and unimportant if the host is more worried about the audience than what is actually taking place in front of him. Both men did an excellent job 👍🏻
I am speechless after I saw in this video. There were many steps that were taken in just to make a pair of bespoke shoe. This guy, Dominic Casey really shows us the true meaning of bespoke of shoe making, congratulations. Keep it up, Allison.
I looked at Kirbys eyes he was hoping to gets his toes sucked 😛👅🦶
This guy really likes old school, even has an iPod in the back!
“Pencil at 45 degrees, classically”
Thanks Kirby, I was very impressed with the way he went about gathering all of the information for your shoes, as well as explaining in great detail every step and the reasons why. Now I am ready to watch him make them.
Actually, the actual actuality of the actual actuality is actually actual.
Actually that is actually very funny!
I had no idea Mark Twain had a British accent. :-)
He's a character! Exactly you'd expect from a left handed shoemaker! ;)
The accent of my Twain has been greatly exaggerated
There is no such things as A Brittish Accent.
@@yacovlevi There is if you're in the US.
Kirby has some serious asmr tingles going on in this.
Foot massage included I see
You want your shoemaker to intimately know your feet! I'd be afraid to have a pair of shoes made by someone that never touched them....
@@kirbyallison good point
Kirby’s gonna burn those shoes after this guy gets done politely eviscerating them
I don't know what's older: the knowledge passed down to Dominic Casey from shoemaker to shoemaker, or the iPod in the background.
03:36 he's turned on the fucker lol
💀
I love the passion you have for bespoke shoes! It really shoes through in your videos and other appearing guests too!
this has ASMR written all over it!
I'm on it
I was just coming to the comments to say, that I think Kirby had some serious tingles going on! Before I knew what asmr when I was a kid, I acted the same way Kirby is when teachers were talking over my shoulder explaining something in a low tone.
millhouse313 OMG! My comment was going to be on that I noticed Nike getting a bit too relaxed and not asking too many questions. Hes about to drop any minute now. 😆 He’s definitely feeling lots of tingles. 😂
꧁ Orlando Cruz ꧂ nike?
Oh my - informative and interesting. "I have your shoes now - I must remove those fancy socks as well, sir. I assure you, it is necessary..."
Please, let me change your socks.
Is this the KFC man?
Yeah! He’s into shoes now
how fast do you think he would throw you out of his shop if you walked in with a pair of crocks
I don't own any crocs but now if I ever get bespoke shoes I have to wear them to my appointments
#unintentionalasmr
Me 32year old knees were hurting just watching him bend down
This is really fascinating. Thank you Kirby for taking the time to create these informative videos. One of the best resources on the web.
Dominics' poor knees. But all joking aside wonderful video!
Jellyfish 703 thousands of pounds for every pair of shoes he is crafting...so worth the kneeling
The attention to details is bewildering. A true master at work
I paid less attention when I’ve bought new houses than this guy does with Kirby’s feet.
Seems like a cool guy. He has an American Civil War Union officer vibe...
Love the thorough ness and passion of the maker