I really liked your video. It gave me some ideas on what to do with some of my paintings. The art work you do on your paintings are awesome, keep up the good work.
Chris, thank you for sharing your knowledge. I agree many pieces are made special in frame. I’m actually going to try my hand at making them with the help of my father in law 🤗!!! Btw your art is incredible 🎨. ❤️, Pam
Making them is really the way to go! My husband is a (retired) building contractor, but you know the old expression, "the shoemakers children go barefoot"!!
Very cool work, & nice tips. Thanks. And I like your work! Very creative ways of embellishing pours & turning them into something new (although I quite like that black, orange, & crimson one- some of the unembellished ones are great). You probably address this in a video where it’s more relevant, about varnishing/finishing, if you’ve done one, but you made me think of it when you mentioned that acrylic doesn’t need to breathe & is okay behind glass; I will just mention for anyone relatively new to this: One thing you should be mindful of, to be on the safe side, is to give a pour plenty of time to fully cure (not just to lose its sheen & become touch dry on the surface, but to actually fully chemically harden & lose all moisture throughout the paint film) before you seal it with any kind of isolation coat, varnish, or finish. I don’t know whether sealing it behind glass is actually air-tight enough for the same thing to apply, but there’s really no reason to risk it (& if there’s any chance of the glass applying pressure to the surface I would especially not take any chances of it distorting anything before it’s fully cured). If it’s an inch or two away from the glass, it’s probably not as big of a danger, but again, if you’re going to bother to do this stuff, you might as well err on the side of caution & do it right. The one or two times I’ve underestimated how wet a pour still was just beneath the surface & accidentally put a finger into an otherwise flawless pour taught me the hard way- be patient. Keep it somewhere safe, level, & free of debris for PLENTY of time, & you will be glad you did when you come out of it with a cleanly dried, pristine result! It may seem obvious (& you do tend to figure this out relatively quickly by trial & error if not by study, but if I can save someone the grief & wasted materials, why not), but I think that because people are, rightly, so used to acrylics drying mega-fast (like, by the time you’re done putting down a long stroke, the beginning of it is already practically dry) when painting more thinly… So many people prefer oils precisely because of this tendency, which can make blending smooth gradients such a pain… Before a certain level of experience with diverse techniques & acrylic-based materials, one can take for granted that that must be the case for all acrylics, all the time. Even if someone does recognize that a pour takes a lot longer to dry than a thin brush application (or even a thicker application of paint straight from the tube), they can still feel like “I’ve left this pour for 24 hours- it’s not like it’s oil paint. It must be well & fully dry by now! And if the sheen has vanished, that can be all the confirmation they need to start picking it up & messing with it, moving on to the sealing/varnishing/finishing steps, etc…. And that can easily result in the ruin of an otherwise really promising piece. The reality is that acrylic is a very versatile medium, & depending on exactly what kind of mixture you’re pouring or painting with, it can take a very long time to dry & cure. Still not as long as oils (where some [semi]drying oils like walnut oil can take AGES to dry, & you might reasonably need to protect a painting for months, even the better part of a year depending on the thickness/layers/materials), but still quite a while. I believe the second one I messed up by underestimating the cure time had been drying for a full 48 hours, & my thumb still dug straight into it. Painting even with a brush or palette knife, if you use a slow-drying acrylic medium (or Golden’s “OPEN Acrylics,” which use a slow-drying acrylic binder by default), they can stay wet to the touch for many hours, similar to a relatively quick/mid-drying oil paint, & the thicker the application, the longer it takes to thoroughly cure throughout the paint film. Pouring mixtures take even longer, because they’re both slow-drying AND, depending on how thick the consistency is, can form a paint film that is very thick, evenly, across the entire surface. Floetrol dries very slowly (IIRC US-floetrol is actually latex based, not even acrylic, so that probably contributes), & even acrylic putting mediums tend to dry quite slowly. And of course, water has to evaporate. Generally, the more of these kinds of fluid additives you’re using to thin & extend your paint, the longer it’ll take to dry, whereas a thicker mixture which is mostly normal acrylic paint will be a bit faster. But my advice is to simply set up a safe, sanitary, level drying space where you’ll be able to leave the painting for a solid 5-7 days minimum without worrying, so that by the time you take any chances, it should at least be dry enough to have some durability. But if it’s something you really want to play it safe with- something you care about- I’d still try to give it abother 5-7 days or so to make sure it’s well & truly cured. If you have the luxury of time, & especially if it’s something you’re planning to sell & want to last, I’d honestly recommend giving it several weeks- again, just to err on the safe side, so that by the time you start sealing it & finish it, there won’t be any concerns about moisture getting trapped, any kind of cracking or crazing problems or anything. Any corners you cut come at a risk to the quality of the end product. A paint mixed with less additives, or applied in a thin layer, may not need that long, but if it’s thick enough that you can’t see the weave of the canvas through it (& personally, I generally want them to be, so they don’t just look like a thin image screen-printed on), then I’m not aware of any non-destructive way of knowing exactly when the deepest layers of the film have finished curing completely, so simply not taking any chances is the safest approach. If it is a watery dutch pour or something & does have that super thin, sunken-into-the-canvas look, it might be easier to see that it’s dried through, but depending on how glossy or matte the finish of the paint is, it may not be as obvious as you think… Again, presuming it doesn’t need long is a recipe for disaster, but some people will just have to make their own mistakes & lose a painting or two before they are willing to be patient. Haha. Depending on how cramped your workspace is & how little room you have for multiple paintings to dry (in a safe, contaminant-free, level position), I get it. Having to keep a drying painting safe for weeks on end is one of the reasons I haven’t bothered to do more oil painting. I don’t have a proper studio, so I don’t have a dozen wall-mounted racks in an ideal environment for numerous paintings to dry simultaneously, & I feel like that makes it way harder to experiment & learn quickly compared to acrylic painting. Pouring is somewhat of a middle-ground. I’ve only built one proper leveling table/bench thing to ensure a painting is drying level & the paint wont slide around (if it’s very thick in consistency I can get away with using a different, slightly less precise surface, but with an even moderately fluid mixture, my DIY leveling table is really necessary to prevent the design from sliding off the canvas or distorting severely over the 48+ hours when it’s most fluid. So anyway, I do sympathize with why someone would want to be able to just declare a painting dried as soon as it’s touch dry, get it out of the way, & move on to the next one. But you really do at the paintings’ peril, even aside from the issue of sealing/finishing them. I recommend finding a rhythm where you can work on other things efficiently while you wait for the last painting to properly cure, giving them plenty of time, & if you have the space to do multiple pours AND keep them safe & level for their full cure/dry time, all the better. But from what I’ve seen, there’s no getting around the time it takes to ensure a pour survives to completion in top form.
You are absolutely correct in that it takes an acrylic pour weeks to fully dry and cure. I am by nature a procrastinator, so I usually end up waiting months before varnishing! As far as framing behind glass, the few times I've done it, the canvas has been a shallow one, placed in a shadowbox frame, so there is considerable space between them. I would never suggest glass directly on top of acrylic, for the reasons you mentioned. Thanks for watching my video and taking the time to write your helpful comments!
Hi Chris....I just discovered you and your beautiful artwork and I'm so glad!! 😊 Your paintings and pours are so beautiful and unique! I wanted to thank you for these great framing ideas! I'm always at a loss as to how to finish a piece of our artwork and now you've given me some great ideas....so again...I thank you for sharing. 😊
@@ChrisJeszeck .... without a doubt I know that I will enjoy ALL of your videos...🥰 I kinda binge watched a bunch last night 😊 starting with your very first video...🖌️
I know I'm in Scotland but I'm hooked on American artists. I have just come across your site and only watched your recent circle pour. Its stunning. So i clicked on your own page and come across this exciting video. Your framing tips are great even if i don't have a Michael's. I loved your last one where you covered the back. Its stunning. I always get a mess on my canvas even if I've taped it. Haha. I have an illness that gives me shakey hands at times so I'm not the cleanest artist but have ocd so I clean up well. I'm off to binge on your videos now. Catch up soon. Love from Scotland Sandra xx
@@sandraaitken7869 believe it or not, I'm just now seeing your lovely comment! Thank you so much for taking the time to write and I hope you are still enjoying my videos! xoxo chris
Awesome, thanks so much for all yout tips and tricks. I need a nail gun now 🤣 I'll definitely check the site out where you get your frames. IMO it really transforms the pieces when you add a frame. 💙
Awesome tips! I definitely will use your frame shop reference. And I never would have thought to ask about Michael’s and using frame “scraps”. Thank you so much!
I don't ask Michael's, but rather my local small business frame shop. He makes frames in standard sizes from his scraps of custom molding...that's what I buy. 😘
Hi Chris , thank you so much for the information! Ian from Miami, Florida . The wholesale arts it’s just 3 Miles from my home!!! So excited going tomorrow! Thanks you!! I’ll let you know...
Great video. Thank you! I love the different frames. I’m new to acrylic pouring and wanted some ideas on how to display the canvases. This was so helpful!
Great information and sources. So many of the paintings you showed are outstanding. Your artistry and techniques are awe-inspiring. Thank you for this video.
I recently "found" you on you tube. Decided to check out your work and while there I found something I have been interested in doing and that is the canvas on frames. I had done some in a smaller version a couple of years ago but not like yours.. I am having a problem finding the right size for the larger canvas such as 9x12--10x10. would appreciate your suggestions. By the way your tutorials on embellishment are GREAT! Thank you for sharing with us.
Thanks for finding me! Are you in the US? Michael's has shadow box frames (Studio Decor) that work with 9x12 canvasses and anothertype (can't recall the name) that is square and work well with 10x10's.
Some great ideas for framing there, i hadnt though of letting the painting stand proud of a shadow box frame, it looks really effective. Some excellent paintings were shown there too, you are so talented! Thanks for sharing 💜
WoW! Thank you Chris for this invaluable information. Some artists have husbands that make frames for their art. I’m sure there are some artists that make their own frames, but for those of us that need to find frames for our art this was really great info. Thanks so much.
Thank you, Chris! I can tell you are quite an artist, an artist that can do wonderful pours, but awesome fine art, too! Great tip on the customer framing shops! On your staple back canvasses that you cram, do you cover the back? The staples are a real sign that the canvas is not an expensive one. Just wondering if that impacts sales when customers see the back?
I've never had any complaints, but I don't charge much when I use an inexpensive canvas. A framed 10x20 inch pour is $60. I do tape the back, though, so it appears as neat as possible.
@@ChrisJeszeck … ok email sent … PLEASE don’t think I am that dumb … I just don’t know where to start …I am slow with trying to find things and how to do it 😞🤣😞🤣
Hi Chris. I love your art. The embellishments art stunning! Could you please tell me the brand at Micheals for the 12x12 frame for the rounds and which brand for the 8x8 frame for the 8x8 canvas. Thank you in advance. 😀
Hi Chris. I love your work and how you embellish over your paint pours. I’m not nearly so talented but do enjoy dabbling in different paint pour techniques. I do absolutely need to keep my costs under control and your framing suggestions are great. I am unable to locate the actual website you are referring to for wholesale arts frame.com. When I type that in I get a link to Wayfair or Wish or my local custom frame business. All very expensive. Can you send me the actual link to your site that you use. Those prices are awesome! Thanks.
Thanks for the info Chris, although being in Oz no good for me but the ideas are great. Bit sad you kept putting your art work down..be proud of everything you do dear lady. You do beautiful work. Especially loved the mermaid, the spanish dancer, the fox and the squirrel. Have you thought of just silent videoing yourself doing your gorgeous art works (other than pours)? I for one would be happy to watch and learn without it being an actual tutorial. - I love to just have art videos playing while I paint, its very relaxing...have a great day and again, thankyou. Btw if you use self tapping screws your hubby doesnt need to drill and your frame might not split, also the backs you forget to tape just touch them up with same colour paint its much less noticeable 🙂 Im sure you know that but others might not think of it🌹🌹🌹
Thank you for your thoughtful comment! I'll try to be more kind to myself...you're not the first to mention it! But I've never been one to gush...that will rarely happen! 😘
I got them at Michael's, long ago. They were actually a plate charger. I think they now sell mdf rounds for painting, all sizes, but I haven't tried them.
Thanks for the suggestion, but I already painted over that part of the pour with the greens. I'm not terribly bothered by it...the squirrel is the star. 😊 Thanks for watching!
That particular one was a custom frame I had made at a local framing shop. The less fancy ones are from Michael's and a wholesale place which I linked in the description box. 😉
Hi Chris. Thanks for this video. I just received some from Michael's. So you glue the back? Good to know. What glue do you prefer? I just want to make sure I use something strong enough that doesn't lose its strength over time. Thanks.
Hi Loretta...I'd have to watch the video to see what you're asking about; is it when I glued cardstock on the back? I don't do that anymore...I'm very careful to tape the back before pouring. But if that's what you're referring to, I use a bit of Super Glue (applied in an "L") on each corner and an inch here and there along the sides. Holds just fine. Let me know if you meant something else! You can always email me at chrissypaints@yahoo.com. 😊
I just watched your video on frames, and would like to order some, my question is, if you have a 12x12 canvas, do you order a 12x12 frame, or do you have to order it a little bigger?? Sorry new to paint pouring.
I don't pour on tiles (maybe I should!), but I would suggest a shadowbox frame to display, perhaps? Or even a small metal easel you can buy at the dollar store or Michael's. Thanks for watching!
I purchased some ready-made frames but the canvases don't exactly fit into the frame (8x10). Do you push the canvas in even though it may stick out in the back some???
Yes, that's no problem. Most of my professionally framed canvasses (mine and a few professional artists paintings) protrude in the back, and the frame does not sit flush with the wall.
The purpose of the video was to show ideas for framing and where to get them, not HOW to frame...there are plenty of videos that will teach you that. However, I believe I mentioned that my husband uses a nail gun with small nails to secure. Sorry you found my video useless.
I really liked your video. It gave me some ideas on what to do with some of my paintings. The art work you do on your paintings are awesome, keep up the good work.
Really pleased to hear your feedback! Thank you!
Great video! I found it when looking for framing instruction but I must say your artwork is exquisite!
Thanks so much Leslie, and welcome to my channel! 😘
Thank you for the fabulous info. You are a talented artist!! Your painting and your pouring are stunning! 🤩
Thanks so much for your kind feedback Sandy! 😘
Thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge. It was very helpful
My pleasure, Leigh! Thank you for watching!
I love your actual paintings on your pours. They’re terrific.
Thanks very much, Sandy! 😘
Thanks for taking the time to explain this Chris
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!
Smashing video Chris full of great info …..what an amazing talent you are !! 💕
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the feedback!
Chris, thank you for sharing your knowledge. I agree many pieces are made special in frame. I’m actually going to try my hand at making them with the help of my father in law 🤗!!! Btw your art is incredible 🎨. ❤️, Pam
Making them is really the way to go! My husband is a (retired) building contractor, but you know the old expression, "the shoemakers children go barefoot"!!
Very cool work, & nice tips. Thanks. And I like your work! Very creative ways of embellishing pours & turning them into something new (although I quite like that black, orange, & crimson one- some of the unembellished ones are great).
You probably address this in a video where it’s more relevant, about varnishing/finishing, if you’ve done one, but you made me think of it when you mentioned that acrylic doesn’t need to breathe & is okay behind glass; I will just mention for anyone relatively new to this: One thing you should be mindful of, to be on the safe side, is to give a pour plenty of time to fully cure (not just to lose its sheen & become touch dry on the surface, but to actually fully chemically harden & lose all moisture throughout the paint film) before you seal it with any kind of isolation coat, varnish, or finish. I don’t know whether sealing it behind glass is actually air-tight enough for the same thing to apply, but there’s really no reason to risk it (& if there’s any chance of the glass applying pressure to the surface I would especially not take any chances of it distorting anything before it’s fully cured). If it’s an inch or two away from the glass, it’s probably not as big of a danger, but again, if you’re going to bother to do this stuff, you might as well err on the side of caution & do it right. The one or two times I’ve underestimated how wet a pour still was just beneath the surface & accidentally put a finger into an otherwise flawless pour taught me the hard way- be patient. Keep it somewhere safe, level, & free of debris for PLENTY of time, & you will be glad you did when you come out of it with a cleanly dried, pristine result!
It may seem obvious (& you do tend to figure this out relatively quickly by trial & error if not by study, but if I can save someone the grief & wasted materials, why not), but I think that because people are, rightly, so used to acrylics drying mega-fast (like, by the time you’re done putting down a long stroke, the beginning of it is already practically dry) when painting more thinly… So many people prefer oils precisely because of this tendency, which can make blending smooth gradients such a pain… Before a certain level of experience with diverse techniques & acrylic-based materials, one can take for granted that that must be the case for all acrylics, all the time. Even if someone does recognize that a pour takes a lot longer to dry than a thin brush application (or even a thicker application of paint straight from the tube), they can still feel like “I’ve left this pour for 24 hours- it’s not like it’s oil paint. It must be well & fully dry by now! And if the sheen has vanished, that can be all the confirmation they need to start picking it up & messing with it, moving on to the sealing/varnishing/finishing steps, etc…. And that can easily result in the ruin of an otherwise really promising piece.
The reality is that acrylic is a very versatile medium, & depending on exactly what kind of mixture you’re pouring or painting with, it can take a very long time to dry & cure. Still not as long as oils (where some [semi]drying oils like walnut oil can take AGES to dry, & you might reasonably need to protect a painting for months, even the better part of a year depending on the thickness/layers/materials), but still quite a while. I believe the second one I messed up by underestimating the cure time had been drying for a full 48 hours, & my thumb still dug straight into it.
Painting even with a brush or palette knife, if you use a slow-drying acrylic medium (or Golden’s “OPEN Acrylics,” which use a slow-drying acrylic binder by default), they can stay wet to the touch for many hours, similar to a relatively quick/mid-drying oil paint, & the thicker the application, the longer it takes to thoroughly cure throughout the paint film.
Pouring mixtures take even longer, because they’re both slow-drying AND, depending on how thick the consistency is, can form a paint film that is very thick, evenly, across the entire surface. Floetrol dries very slowly (IIRC US-floetrol is actually latex based, not even acrylic, so that probably contributes), & even acrylic putting mediums tend to dry quite slowly. And of course, water has to evaporate. Generally, the more of these kinds of fluid additives you’re using to thin & extend your paint, the longer it’ll take to dry, whereas a thicker mixture which is mostly normal acrylic paint will be a bit faster. But my advice is to simply set up a safe, sanitary, level drying space where you’ll be able to leave the painting for a solid 5-7 days minimum without worrying, so that by the time you take any chances, it should at least be dry enough to have some durability. But if it’s something you really want to play it safe with- something you care about- I’d still try to give it abother 5-7 days or so to make sure it’s well & truly cured. If you have the luxury of time, & especially if it’s something you’re planning to sell & want to last, I’d honestly recommend giving it several weeks- again, just to err on the safe side, so that by the time you start sealing it & finish it, there won’t be any concerns about moisture getting trapped, any kind of cracking or crazing problems or anything. Any corners you cut come at a risk to the quality of the end product. A paint mixed with less additives, or applied in a thin layer, may not need that long, but if it’s thick enough that you can’t see the weave of the canvas through it (& personally, I generally want them to be, so they don’t just look like a thin image screen-printed on), then I’m not aware of any non-destructive way of knowing exactly when the deepest layers of the film have finished curing completely, so simply not taking any chances is the safest approach. If it is a watery dutch pour or something & does have that super thin, sunken-into-the-canvas look, it might be easier to see that it’s dried through, but depending on how glossy or matte the finish of the paint is, it may not be as obvious as you think… Again, presuming it doesn’t need long is a recipe for disaster, but some people will just have to make their own mistakes & lose a painting or two before they are willing to be patient. Haha.
Depending on how cramped your workspace is & how little room you have for multiple paintings to dry (in a safe, contaminant-free, level position), I get it. Having to keep a drying painting safe for weeks on end is one of the reasons I haven’t bothered to do more oil painting. I don’t have a proper studio, so I don’t have a dozen wall-mounted racks in an ideal environment for numerous paintings to dry simultaneously, & I feel like that makes it way harder to experiment & learn quickly compared to acrylic painting. Pouring is somewhat of a middle-ground. I’ve only built one proper leveling table/bench thing to ensure a painting is drying level & the paint wont slide around (if it’s very thick in consistency I can get away with using a different, slightly less precise surface, but with an even moderately fluid mixture, my DIY leveling table is really necessary to prevent the design from sliding off the canvas or distorting severely over the 48+ hours when it’s most fluid. So anyway, I do sympathize with why someone would want to be able to just declare a painting dried as soon as it’s touch dry, get it out of the way, & move on to the next one. But you really do at the paintings’ peril, even aside from the issue of sealing/finishing them. I recommend finding a rhythm where you can work on other things efficiently while you wait for the last painting to properly cure, giving them plenty of time, & if you have the space to do multiple pours AND keep them safe & level for their full cure/dry time, all the better. But from what I’ve seen, there’s no getting around the time it takes to ensure a pour survives to completion in top form.
You are absolutely correct in that it takes an acrylic pour weeks to fully dry and cure. I am by nature a procrastinator, so I usually end up waiting months before varnishing! As far as framing behind glass, the few times I've done it, the canvas has been a shallow one, placed in a shadowbox frame, so there is considerable space between them. I would never suggest glass directly on top of acrylic, for the reasons you mentioned.
Thanks for watching my video and taking the time to write your helpful comments!
Ty for sharing all your helpful knowledge.
My pleasure! Thank you for the feedback, Patricia!
your creations are beautiful, very inspiring.
Thanks so much for your kind comment, Sharon!
What a great informational video, I learned a lot. Again thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Ah, good! Glad you found it helpful! 😊
Ty for framing info. That is another art u have mastered.
Thank you! I really enjoy the way a simple pour can be enhanced with a simple frame. 😘
Your shadow box idea is so exciting.
It really makes a statement...I sell a lot of them. 😊
Hi Chris....I just discovered you and your beautiful artwork and I'm so glad!! 😊 Your paintings and pours are so beautiful and unique! I wanted to thank you for these great framing ideas! I'm always at a loss as to how to finish a piece of our artwork and now you've given me some great ideas....so again...I thank you for sharing. 😊
Lesli you've made my day with your great comment! I'm glad to be of help! I hope you enjoy my other videos, too. 😘
@@ChrisJeszeck .... without a doubt I know that I will enjoy ALL of your videos...🥰 I kinda binge watched a bunch last night 😊 starting with your very first video...🖌️
I know I'm in Scotland but I'm hooked on American artists. I have just come across your site and only watched your recent circle pour. Its stunning. So i clicked on your own page and come across this exciting video. Your framing tips are great even if i don't have a Michael's. I loved your last one where you covered the back. Its stunning. I always get a mess on my canvas even if I've taped it. Haha. I have an illness that gives me shakey hands at times so I'm not the cleanest artist but have ocd so I clean up well. I'm off to binge on your videos now. Catch up soon.
Love from Scotland
Sandra xx
@@sandraaitken7869 believe it or not, I'm just now seeing your lovely comment! Thank you so much for taking the time to write and I hope you are still enjoying my videos! xoxo chris
Awesome, thanks so much for all yout tips and tricks. I need a nail gun now 🤣 I'll definitely check the site out where you get your frames. IMO it really transforms the pieces when you add a frame. 💙
Thank you! I agree about the transforming! The site is a bit tricky to navigate, but worth the effort. 😊
@@ChrisJeszeck I checked it out last night. Very cool stuff on there. Now I just have to figure out which ones I want to hang. Lol
Very very impressive … thank you so much for sharing your art and your knowledge… you are very talented… glad I found you … from Australia 😁
I'm glad too, Pauline! Thank you! 😘
Thank you so much for sharing this! Very helpful!❤
Glad it was helpful!
I tried some of these suggestions.. I Really appreciate you sharing this!! 👍🏼♥️
My pleasure! Thanks for watching, Tina! 😘
What a great idea. Thank you for sharing and your work is so good. I wish I could draw
Thanks for watching, Sandy!
You are so talented. You have to have an "eye" for art to be able to know what works on a painting and you DO.
Thanks for watching and for your kind feedback!
Great colors and great info about the framing.
Thanks for watching, Sandi! 😘
Thank you chris. This is invaluable.
I'm glad you found it helpful, Linda!
Very helpful, thank you, Chris!!
My pleasure...thank you for watching!
Thanks so much for these helpful ideas. ❤
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching!
Thank you great information, Your painting are lovely.
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful!
Awesome tips! I definitely will use your frame shop reference. And I never would have thought to ask about Michael’s and using frame “scraps”. Thank you so much!
I don't ask Michael's, but rather my local small business frame shop. He makes frames in standard sizes from his scraps of custom molding...that's what I buy. 😘
Hi Chris , thank you so much for the information! Ian from Miami, Florida . The wholesale arts it’s just 3 Miles from my home!!! So excited going tomorrow! Thanks you!! I’ll let you know...
Lucky you! I'm so jealous!! I have to pay for shipping. They're having a sale this weekend!
Thank you.... you have some good ideas... and yes, Michaels is expensive.
Thanks for watching, Olivia!
This was super helpful, Chris! Thank you!
My pleasure, thank you for watching, Mary! 😘
Thank you Chris...so helpful❤️
Thank you! And thanks for watching!
This is gorgeous!! Love the pour and the finished piece! ☺️💚
Thanks very much!
Very informative. I’ve never taped the wire on the back but I will start doing that. Great video! 😀😀😀
Yes, it saves both mine and my buyer's fingers!
Thank you so much for this really helpful video!
My pleasure...thanks for watching!
Excellent information. Thank you for taking the time to show us how you frame your art.
My pleasure...thanks for watching!
Wow! A wealth of information here! Thanks Chris. Your embellishments are stunning!
Thank you...glad you found it helpful! 😘
Great video. Thank you! I love the different frames. I’m new to acrylic pouring and wanted some ideas on how to display the canvases. This was so helpful!
I'm pleased to hear that, Sharon! Thanks for watching! 😘
Great information and sources. So many of the paintings you showed are outstanding. Your artistry and techniques are awe-inspiring. Thank you for this video.
Thank you so much for your kind feedback. 😘
The frames really finished the pieces! Thanks for your tips!❤
My pleasure! Glad you found it helpful. 😊
They are all beautiful
Thanks, Laurie!
Your paintings are so beautiful!
Thanks so much! A bunch of my work is on sale on my website if you care to take a look...www.chrissypaints.com
Thank you so much for all this info.
My pleasure! I'm happy you found it helpful. 😊
Thank you Chris! Have a good evening and thank you for the information!
You are most welcome! Thank You!
I recently "found" you on you tube. Decided to check out your work and while there I found something I have been interested in doing and that is the canvas on frames. I had done some in a smaller version a couple of years ago but not like yours..
I am having a problem finding the right size for the larger canvas such as 9x12--10x10. would appreciate your suggestions.
By the way your tutorials on embellishment are GREAT! Thank you for sharing with us.
Thanks for finding me! Are you in the US? Michael's has shadow box frames (Studio Decor) that work with 9x12 canvasses and anothertype (can't recall the name) that is square and work well with 10x10's.
That was really helpful. Thank you Chris!
I'm happy you found it helpful! 😊
Wonderful information thank you
Thank You for watching!
Good information, Chris. Thanks! 🌹
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much! I have been buying frames only a few at a time because they were so expensive.
Glad you found it helpful, Elizabeth! 😘
Beautiful work 💕💕💕
Thanks so much! 😘
Thanks so much for doing this video. It was so informative.
Thanks for watching, Judy! I'm glad you found it helpful. 😊
Awesome info; thanks so much for the help; and you are an amazing artist.
My pleasure...thanks very much!
Very helpful, thank you!
My pleasure...thanks for watching, Lorraine!
Great ideas. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! 😘
Thank you so much for sharing
Thank you!
Some great ideas for framing there, i hadnt though of letting the painting stand proud of a shadow box frame, it looks really effective. Some excellent paintings were shown there too, you are so talented! Thanks for sharing 💜
Always a pleasure...thank you, Kate! 😘
WoW! Thank you Chris for this invaluable information. Some artists have husbands that make frames for their art. I’m sure there are some artists that make their own frames, but for those of us that need to find frames for our art this was really great info. Thanks so much.
My husband is a retired master carpenter and I still buy them...you know the saying, "the shoemakers children go barefoot"!?
Thank you, Chris! I can tell you are quite an artist, an artist that can do wonderful pours, but awesome fine art, too! Great tip on the customer framing shops! On your staple back canvasses that you cram, do you cover the back? The staples are a real sign that the canvas is not an expensive one. Just wondering if that impacts sales when customers see the back?
I've never had any complaints, but I don't charge much when I use an inexpensive canvas. A framed 10x20 inch pour is $60. I do tape the back, though, so it appears as neat as possible.
@@ChrisJeszeck thanks so much! I knew you’d have a solution.
😮 love ❤️ your beautiful artwork
Thanks so much for your kind feedback!
@@ChrisJeszeck … Chris can I contact via email please
@eliz1957 certainly! chrissypaints@yahoo.com
@@ChrisJeszeck …thank you
@@ChrisJeszeck … ok email sent … PLEASE don’t think I am that dumb … I just don’t know where to start …I am slow with trying to find things and how to do it 😞🤣😞🤣
Awesome thank you
Thanks for watching!
Hi Chris. I love your art. The embellishments art stunning! Could you please tell me the brand at Micheals for the 12x12 frame for the rounds and which brand for the 8x8 frame for the 8x8 canvas. Thank you in advance. 😀
Thanks so much! They are both Studio Decor brand shadowboxes, in 9x9 and 14x14 inch sizes. 😘
Chris I love the mermaid painting do you have a video on it?..ok back to your video 🤭
Sorry, no...I did that one before I started my channel. 😊
Super helpful!
Thanks for watching!
Hi Chris. I love your work and how you embellish over your paint pours. I’m not nearly so talented but do enjoy dabbling in different paint pour techniques. I do absolutely need to keep my costs under control and your framing suggestions are great. I am unable to locate the actual website you are referring to for wholesale arts frame.com. When I type that in I get a link to Wayfair or Wish or my local custom frame business. All very expensive. Can you send me the actual link to your site that you use. Those prices are awesome! Thanks.
Hi Jackie...thank you so much for your nice feedback. I fixed the link for the frame source...should now work for you. 😘
Very helpful! TY!
My pleasure! Thanks for watching! 😘
Thanks for the info Chris, although being in Oz no good for me but the ideas are great. Bit sad you kept putting your art work down..be proud of everything you do dear lady. You do beautiful work. Especially loved the mermaid, the spanish dancer, the fox and the squirrel. Have you thought of just silent videoing yourself doing your gorgeous art works (other than pours)? I for one would be happy to watch and learn without it being an actual tutorial. - I love to just have art videos playing while I paint, its very relaxing...have a great day and again, thankyou. Btw if you use self tapping screws your hubby doesnt need to drill and your frame might not split, also the backs you forget to tape just touch them up with same colour paint its much less noticeable 🙂 Im sure you know that but others might not think of it🌹🌹🌹
Thank you for your thoughtful comment! I'll try to be more kind to myself...you're not the first to mention it! But I've never been one to gush...that will rarely happen! 😘
Thank you for information.
It's my pleasure...thanks for watching, Virginia!
This is such great information. Can you tell me where you get your rounds and what are they made of?
I got them at Michael's, long ago. They were actually a plate charger. I think they now sell mdf rounds for painting, all sizes, but I haven't tried them.
Thank you so much!
My pleasure...thanks for watching!
For the one squirrel picture backing, would it come out smooth and better to you visually if you painted it with the matching color?
Thanks for the suggestion, but I already painted over that part of the pour with the greens. I'm not terribly bothered by it...the squirrel is the star. 😊 Thanks for watching!
Chris, were do you get you frames (like the one in the fruit painting)? I just love your work.
That particular one was a custom frame I had made at a local framing shop. The less fancy ones are from Michael's and a wholesale place which I linked in the description box. 😉
What varnish have you used?
The shine on canvas is really amazing ♥️
Liquitex Gloss Varnish. Here's a link to a video showing how I varnish: ua-cam.com/video/ruFuiSTBwYE/v-deo.html
Thank you. Newbie here. Been wondering.
My pleasure! Welcome to my channel!
Hi Chris. Thanks for this video. I just received some from Michael's. So you glue the back? Good to know. What glue do you prefer? I just want to make sure I use something strong enough that doesn't lose its strength over time. Thanks.
Hi Loretta...I'd have to watch the video to see what you're asking about; is it when I glued cardstock on the back? I don't do that anymore...I'm very careful to tape the back before pouring. But if that's what you're referring to, I use a bit of Super Glue (applied in an "L") on each corner and an inch here and there along the sides. Holds just fine. Let me know if you meant something else! You can always email me at chrissypaints@yahoo.com. 😊
Hi Chris. Thanks. You took one of your actual canvas paintings and glued it to the backing on the frame.
Ah yes, Super Glue once again! A good amount; no problems and it's been years. I've done many, many.
Thank you!
Thank you for watching, Tanya!
Great idea....what do you sell the first one you shared....love it
Thanks, Michelle! Do you mean the small mermaid painting? It's on my website for $95. (www.chrissypaints.com)
I just watched your video on frames, and would like to order some, my question is, if you have a 12x12 canvas, do you order a 12x12 frame, or do you have to order it a little bigger?? Sorry new to paint pouring.
You order a frame the size of the canvas, my friend. Thank you for watching and happy painting! 😊
@@ChrisJeszeck i received the frames I ordered, they worked out great, thanks for the info.
Very informative. I am new to acrylic art.
Please ,how do I display pour on a ceramic tile.?
I don't pour on tiles (maybe I should!), but I would suggest a shadowbox frame to display, perhaps? Or even a small metal easel you can buy at the dollar store or Michael's. Thanks for watching!
@@ChrisJeszeck Living in Jamaica, 🇯🇲
Maybe glue in a serving tray? Find a frame you like and fill with tiles? Little easels should be easy to find or even make?
@@ChrisJeszeck What a good idea.
Still looking for heat resistant varnish,can"t get resin
I purchased some ready-made frames but the canvases don't exactly fit into the frame (8x10). Do you push the canvas in even though it may stick out in the back some???
Yes, that's no problem. Most of my professionally framed canvasses (mine and a few professional artists paintings) protrude in the back, and the frame does not sit flush with the wall.
@@ChrisJeszeck thank you!
What do you with the glass inserts if you do not use them?
I have a friend who makes fused glass art...she takes them. 😊
Thanks
Thanks for watching, Anne!
How you preserve your painting without glass framing...what you apply after finishing the painting
I use Liquitex high gloss varnish, mixed half and half with water and applied in multiple thin coats, at least 6.
Omg the cat painting! Is it available?
Long gone, I'm afraid! But email me if you want a commission! chrissypaints@yahoo.com
I checked out your source for frames, I didn't see any priced for 10.00
I buy the polystyrene 313-VIII series. A 12x12 is under $10 if you buy three or more.
What’s the name of that company???
The link to the company is in the description box. 😉
If the back is a oops because I forgot t paint the back ridge.
Yes, that is certainly another option! 😊
Shame its not any good for me. I'm in Scotland haha. Xx
Awww...I thank you for watching, anyway!
Showing us the pictures that you’ve already framed doesn’t tell us how you framed them… I really useless
The purpose of the video was to show ideas for framing and where to get them, not HOW to frame...there are plenty of videos that will teach you that. However, I believe I mentioned that my husband uses a nail gun with small nails to secure. Sorry you found my video useless.
This is such great information. Can you tell me where you get your rounds and what are they made of?
They are wooden chargers from Michael's...don't know that they sell them anymore though...