Cleaning the Casting, Plus a Lot More... Sunday Morning Quickies, Ep. 114, March 24, 2024
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- Опубліковано 23 лип 2024
- This week, we answer question "How do you clean the bottom of the body after all the parts are off?" and well as "How do you get the dirt off the body without hurting the decals?" Both are good questions, and on the way to answering them, I also give you my take on the use of ultrasonic cleaning machines, as well as show a helpful tool to remove the needle bar clamp screw. We also discuss a problem Bill is having with a smoking lamp socket in a 201-2 (and ask for your thoughts as well). Finally, Liz and I took a road trip for cardboard boxes and wound up having a great time!
00:00 Intro and titles
00:40 How do you clean the bottom? The prelude...
01:23 Let's start with taking this grungy 66 apart
03:00 To ultrasonic or not... My take on the subject
06:24 Cleaning the body and saving the decals
09:56 Work lights!
10:45 This is what Chapman bits are designed to do...
11:16 Back to disassembly...
15:05 How can you remember what goes where?
16:50 Cleaning the bottom of the casting (finally)
20:30 A very useful UV flashlight
22:19 Side note: I bought a motor from Jerry, and rebuilt it too!
23:08 Yes, you CAN use pliers on parts IF you're VERY careful...
24:46 Meredith needs these tools for needle bar removal...
26:38 Bill has a smoking lamp socket with his 201-2 - sometimes
28:00 Liz and I took a road trip to Uline and final thoughts
The feature on my web page - "My Recommended Tools, Materials, and Suppliers" can be found here:
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Thank you Bob for all you do. You have repeatedly helped me immensely with my 31-15 and 96-10! God bless you!
Glad to have been of assistance!
I listen and watch even if I have seen the previous instructions because you always have some unique ideas and great stories!
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you like it!
Everyone has there own way of cleaning and waxing the machine, but the end result is what matters and you do a GREAT job.
Thanks Harlan!
Here is a theory as to the LEDb problem. While their is a voltage drop across an LED, they do not provide resistance to current. Therefore there is always a current limiting resistor in series with LED. The incandescent lamp provided resistance. I would try putting a current limiting resistor using the standard LED formula. Or just a standard value with the current handling ability.
We may have figured out the issue. I'll be following up in a video with more info.
Bob, you are absolutely amazing, i just stumbled on your channel and I'm so delighted that I did, I love the fact you are a perfectionist when it comes to restoring and mending your machines, I bought a singer 99k, made in 1938, it's a three quarter one but besides the decals on the machine you're working on there, it looks the same, i've no idea how to thread a bobbin on it or fill a bobbin lol, it needs cleaning badly, I'm praying you've done a video on my machine, thankyou for giving for wealth of knowledge so generously to people, new sub here and I'm binge watching your videos 😂Greetings and love from Ireland😃☘☘
that's a remarkably nice set of decals on that filthy 66--I suppose the grime protected them!
I think that's the case...
With the light issue that you mentioned.
If the wiring to the lamp socket is still original wiring, it could be the wiring, I've never seen that with a sewing machine but I see a similar issue with cars & trucks that customers had replaced the lamps with LED, the resistance difference between a incandescent bulb & the LED is way different.
Many times changing to a different brand bulb helped if they wanted to stick with LED but some cases, running new wiring helped.
We had another discussion this afternoon, and we may have figured out the issue. I'll follow up in a video with more info.
Hear, hear! to that little offset ratchet. It is such a fantastic tool. Love, love, love it. And even though I have the little Chapman ratchet (and love that too, and use it a lot) I wouldn't be without the offset one now I've experienced using it. It would be one of those things I'd put on a Top 10 List of "I wish I knew about x, y, z when I started". :-)
Great video as always Bob - and I don't mind a bit that your repeat things. (Rant alert ahead...) I always watch the whole video regardless but could easily skip a chapter if there's something I'm not interested in. I also think it is really handy for new(er) subscribers who won't have had a chance to go back through your growing library of vids to find where you've done something before, and they might not even realise what it is they need to look for, exactly.
And in any event, as you find better or different ways of doing things - or something is a bit 'out of the ordinary' to the usual way something proceeds - and you come up with 'Okay - let's figure this out solutions' on the fly I keep learning new things. Even things you might not be setting out to show us specifically, like how you go about analysing and solving a problem. I feel like a very privileged apprentice who has been allowed into the sorceror's workshop!
Ya know Megan, I need to find a way to get to New Zealand...
Ok, but loving the Idea of Bob, the singer sorcerer 😅😊 thanks for that Megan
Glad to see you didn't get washed away from the rain. 😊
If just one person uses the term drought this year... LOL
Hello, everything going well? Good. Your teaching are invaluable. All of them. Love to you and yours.
Everything is peachy keen Terri! Hope all is well with you too!
Smoking LED bulb, I would remove the LED and check the power used by the bulb just in case there is a fault in the LED best to rule that out.
Test as soon as it smokes tun off the machine and take out the LED and see if it is hot near the electrical connections.
A lady sold me a 201k that had a bad electrical smell, when I got it home I found the glass part of the bulb had separated from the brass base and that was the electrical burning smell.
Some China LED bulbs bottom out in the socket before the bayonet UK style pins engage, I found gentle use of a round file on the Bakelite opening allows the bulb to go in further.
Stand by for an update on the LED issue, we think we may have it licked...
Grandma use to use shortening to cut grease and oil in clothes. Then use hot water and soap! I was always amazed that worked!
Grandma was a smart lady... New oil cuts through old oil, likewise grease!
Yesterday I was working on a 66k from 1919 the foot lift leaver screw is loose, sloppy and badly worn, If I tightened it then the leaver would be locked up, solution I pushed a short length of plastic golf tee in the threaded hole so that the screw would bottom out before the leaver locked up. Not he best solution, I can drill out the plastic if needed.
The screw has worn down on one side by about 2mm, that takes some doing.
The machine has been well used the cotton has cut a deep groove in the faceplate. The machine was on its way to the scrap yard.
The other issues was factory paint inside the flywheel making it stiff to hand crank.
It is interesting to see some of the construction savings made in this post WW1 machine.
I have left mine only slightly cleaned but working well since It is nice to see how it has survived. The "Lotus Flower" decals have only survived in few places, I will just give it a coat of Shellac to preserve the rest. The machine will be one of my heavier duty machines.
Good save! One day, I'll find a Lotus decal machine in nice shape... Not that I need yet another 66! LOL
Husband guesses it's probably in series, not parallel. It's the LED that is smoking.
If it were in series, the lamp would be off when the motor isn't running, they are in parallel
You mentioned exactly what I recommended to a lady regarding a Singer 66 & the exterior surfaces in cleaning.
I also mentioned using shellac to cover the painted & decaled surfaces to protect what's left.
A lot of people recommend using Gojo pumice free hand cleaner. In my experience, the solvents in Gojo will attack and silver the decals if the clear coat is compromised, pumice or not. I had that happen once, then I ran some tests on a few parts machines and decided that wasn't going to be the method I would use.
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. I love your iron erector set thing you attach your machines to when working on them. Very smart. Also, that 66 has pretty good decals under the shmoo.
A thought about the LED bulb issue. Has he tried a different LED bulb? I have found that sometimes the solder on the bulb is defective and can cause issues. Simple but start with simple.
Have a good one. I enjoy your videos.
There will be an update on the LED issue.. stay tuned...
my husband was an electrician where we worked. he said that it may be one bulb is a little longer and is pushing in farther and some thing in the wiring is shorting out.
Bill and I spoke today, we came up with some ideas and may have it figured out. Details to follow...
All topics covered are amazing, ty. You may have introduced your blue helping hand (frame stand), with the parts from the cabinets to mount the machines. Hats off!! Did you jury rig or have it custom-made? Thanks for sharing, helping us learn.
I had wanted a holding fixture for a while, so I welded one up a couple of years ago. My welding skills leave a lot to be desired, but that's why I own a grinder and cans of spray paint!
I had the same smoking light happen on my Singer 99 from 1935. The light worked perfectly fine until you engaged the foot pedal and then the socket would start to smoke. I changed the old incandescent bulb for a new one and that seems to have stopped the smoking. I haven't tried an LED bulb in the machine.
Rule of thumb... Don't let the smoke out. If it starts to smoke, shut it down and look for the problem.
You’ve been doing it a long time
Something like that!
Hi! I love your videos and they have helped me tremendously in working on my first 66. Question though, is there a reason why you don’t have closed captions on your videos? I’m hearing impaired and the close up shots on the machines are fantastic but then I can’t read your lips so sometimes I’m just guessing at what you’re saying.
I have them on some, and I will try to get caught up and get them on all of them. I'll go through and use the "automatic ones" and then as I cam, go through and edit them. Excellent point, and as someone with severe hearing loss myself, I should have been doing that all along...
The frame you have for holding the machine looks so interesting did you build it?
Yes, there's a measured drawing on my web site here:
bobsvsmservice.com/sewing-machine-repair-and-maintenance-fixture/
Hi Bob! Great videos as always. Love the weekly teaching videos and general vintage sewing machine info. I have several vintage machines that I both use and keep as historical items. I bought a 201 that came with a broken bobbin winding unit, the shipping was sloppy and that is where it got broken.:( To replace it I bought a 15 motor with he accompanied bobbin winding part but then discovered that the bobbin sizes are different:( Sad day. I see in your video that you had a similar situation with the 15 that has a 201 motor. Will that be an issue when it comes time to use a bobbin wound on the 15? I believe one of the machines takes a larger bobbin, the 15 perhaps?
My 201 has issues that I am still working through and would like to send you a video one day to see if you have any ideas on how to rectify. The hand wheel does not turn easily. I removed it and still am unable to turn it. I took apart and completely cleaned the bobbin case area, the needle bar and presser bar areas with no success. I have been cleaning all the gears but not much success in getting the hand wheel to turn any better. I am wondering if maybe during the shipping since the bobbin winder broke that maybe something else got stuck?.
Thank you again for your weekly updates. I look forward to them each week.
Karen from California
I do have a bobbin follower for the winder on the motor on the 15-91, I just haven't installed it yet.
By the hand wheel on top of your machine there is and oiling hole. There is also probably a felt wick in that hole. Once I had a 201x2 that wasn’t turning very well and discovered that the wick was hard and not allowing the oil to penetrate the wick. I took a old sewing machine needle and tapped it through the wick down to the metal shaft then oiled it and the hand wheel turned better. I’m not sure how you would change the wick but tapping the hole through the wick seemed to help. I hop this helps.
@@cynthiaporter8300 That little silver colored oil port does come out! It makes it simple to change the wick...
Thanks
So how do I get the little silver oil port out? It has ridges along the sides of the port tube. I tried a tiny crochet hook.
Do you have a video on how to fix the stitch length adjust on this machine?
I posted this video a few years ago that covers not only the screw type, but shows how they basic models work. The lighting isn't the greatest, and it's on my list of videos to re-shoot.
ua-cam.com/video/mhKzyZfs8Gc/v-deo.html
I would love to know where you got the blue tilt back machine stand on your bench. Does it fit many different models? I got 2 Kenmore and a very very heavy Sailrite.
If I remember right Bob said he fabricated it. Don't quote me on that, but I really do think this is the case.
I built it a couple of years ago. There is a drawing with dimension on my website, but if you're thinking of building one, hold on a bit as I'm putting together an even better "V2.0" model.
What did I miss?
Nothing at all... Just schmoo...