This is the first and only shooting board build that addresses the little edge that the plane rides on. Congratulations for showing that important step.
Clamp the plane to the board, clamp the square to the plane, clamp the stop to the square...I'm asking all relatives and friends from now on to just give me clamps for Christmas, Father's Day, and birthday for the rest of my life.
Christmas 🎄 clamping, yes! Clamp the Christmas tree to the floor, clamp grandma to the chair, clamp the kids to the beanbags in front of the TV, clamp your beer to the turkey etc etc
I've never had a shooting board, and I'm 73. On the other hand I'm not great at accurate woodwork. Now I have a few jobs coming up where I can see it being useful, so guess what I'm going to do. Love your video.
I have watched a couple of your teaching videos, and the amount of information in any of them is superb. Thank you so much for the lessons. I am a DIYer and, by definition, not an expert on the subject of working with wood. While I have done some projects, I am still a novice carpenter, and I hope to be better by watching and implementing your techniques. Keep up the excellent work!
My shooting board is one of the tools that utterly elevated the quality of my woodworking. Before the shooting board, I couldn’t shoot the end of moulding planes, it has changed soooo much in sooo many areas. Surprised they don’t sell them, I guess because you need to bother to learn how to use and sharpen your planes.😆😆😆😆🤦♀️🤦♀️🤦♀️♥️♥️♥️
Putting Tape to make the ark. The reason you gave did not make much sense to me, but it definitely will make plane cut better by letting blade slide a little up and down. Great video. I always learn a few tips here and there from each of your video. You are a great teacher. Thanks.
You have your reasoning upside down... Letting the center bow up allows the middle of the plane (the widest part) always make square contact against the board. Squared contact means the plane is always 90⁰ to the shooting board. If it were cupped in, then only the narrow ends of the plane would make contact at the sole of the plane while the middle tilts down into the cup... this would also make the plane sole tilt away from the shooting board, giving you a non-squared board which would be nearly useless.
Since you’ve only heard this 25 million times, I’d better add to that and tell you, “great work”! You make it look easy, but my experience tells me that it’s not. Those exact 90 degrees are something I struggle with. Thanks for creating this tutorial.
I'm going to build one this week. It looks so awesome! Rob, would you consider sharing some of your biggest mistakes when you first started? Whether in business or woodworking, it would be truly helpful to beginners like myself. That is if you didn't come out of the womb as a master, haha.
Catching up on some unwatched videos. I just noticed a Sonar Technician rating on your apron! I served as a surface Sonar Tech and instantly recognized the rate! Nice!
Thanks very much Rob! I am thoroughly enjoying your videos and your instructional manner. Looking to retire in the next year or so and this is something that I could definitely see myself doing. Also, as a veteran myself I congratulate you on your Purple Heart Project and all that you are doing.
Excellent video. I had just made one of these before this video came out using a piece of melamine for the base and hickory for the cleat and stop. The small size is super useful for building little projects. Thank you Mr. Cosman, I always learn something from your posts.
Nice mini-shooter. Looks great and functional too. Now I gotta go build another tool for the workshop. I swear, if I keep watching YT, I'm going to have to build an addition onto the shop for tool storage. Hahaha!😆
I made one a little while back. Had some Macassar Ebony, so mine is a bit fancy!!! Great idea, mine works great. Rob always comes up with all the sweet hookups!!!
I enjoy watching your videos, and I have learned so much. Thinking about buying a better block plane than the one I recently bought at lowes to learn. Thanks for all you do!
I made a block plane shooting board after watching your videos a while back as a practice before making the real one you guys are awesome thanks for the videos
Thanks for this video. I have been wanting to make a new shooting board. I think this will be the best size for my shop. Especially since my best plane os a block plane.
Thanks Rob, Jake, and crew. I was watching a video of yours from earlier in the year, and you could really hear the problems with your lungs. I know it was difficult at times, thank you! By the way, I formerly used a wrapping, similar to you hockey tape wrap, without the twist, on the handles of my tennis racquets (then they were for sweat, now I add your twist for my arthritis). Great idea, and it helps a lot.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking you say the mdf doesn't need to be more than a half inch, but if I glue lam two half inch pieces together will that hurt? Also I have some 1/4" cherry scraps I could use in place of Baltic birch plywood, would that be ok? Lemme know what you think please. Thanks!
@@johnburens3395 I wouldn’t make it 1” thick, that would be clumsy looking. As for the scraps, plywood is better because it is more stable, and less prone to warping the MDF.
Would love to see close ups of where you chamfer the edge a little, would like to see what the squirrel 🐿 plane looks like and also a close up of the rabbet you cut on the top piece. I have my 4 pieces of wood and will start assembly on my next day off. Thank you so much for the video . Cathy
Rob Cosm... Haha those hand stamp brands are a PITA. I find hittin the tip with a propane torch to get it hotter provides better results as I can just hit the surface with the brand for a hot second and pull off... Having to hold it down for however long always gave me sub par results. Thanks for all the knowledge you share, Rob. Ps. I appreciate your attention to the minutia... It counts in woodworking and shines in jig making. Cheers
Nice work rob, there hasn't been a video i regret watching and learning from it. Merry christmas to all of you guys that teach us all your woodworking skills right at our finger tips.
@RobCosmanWoodworking thanks for the great vid Rob! Question why do you suggest setting the hardwood back a bit? If you run the plane across it a few times after assembled, wouldn't the plane take off anything in the way after just a couple passes (if you extend the blade a bit)?
What planes do you prefer for your shooting boards and why? Is there a particular reason you don't use the Lie-Nielsen shooting plane? Really appreciate your time and knowledge.
Whichever plane you like, but I recommend at least a 5-1/2 (5 if you have small hands), and nothing smaller. I don’t like single use planes for frequent operations.
Thanks for the tutorial regarding the subtleties of making a top notch shooting board. I hope it doesn't sound condescending to say how refreshing it is to see glue application done judiciously, as if it matters.
Good video Rob. Do you think an MDF base would be durable enough for a Lie Nielsen #51 shooting plane or should I use something else for the base? Thanks for your time. Ron
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I tried to send you a picture from the contact us feature on your website but couldn't attach a picture. I need an email address to send it.
Nice job Professor Cos. Can't wait to see what 2021 brings. Merry Christmas to you and family. Also, Col. Shealy a very Merry Christmas Sir. Semper Fi.
Merry Christmas, Rob. You said that you would explain why you set back the fence on the shooting board. I must have missed that part of the video. My guess is that it is to ensure the plane does not rotate and cut into the back edge of the fence, blowing it out.
When I put the fence at the end of th eboard (I use to do that) I notice that my students would push the plane off the board caausing th eplne to dive off the end and mess up th ecut so I moved the fence back so that your plane stays on th eramps even after the cut
I love your channel, admire your skill, and your generosity to share it all with us. Thank you. Really. However, as an educator, why not put a blade guard on your table saw? I know a couple people myself who would have saved themselves some trouble had they left theirs on. Apologies if you’ve addressed this already or if I’m mistaken to believe that it’s way safer to use a guard.
I dont know Rob's particular reasons for not using a blade guard, but I'll say a few things I know about the subject. The biggest thing is that he does have a riving knife installed, and a riving knife is arguably the most important safety feature on a table saw. The riving knife pretty much eliminates the possibility of major kickback. Kickback is dangerous enough since it throws wood at you at a million miles per hour, but kickback can also pull your hand into the blade unexpectedly. Without kickback, the only reason your body will touch the blade is if you are being negligent. With normal saw blades and standard types of cuts, a riving knife will do this without any downsides whatsoever. Good news for most blade guards is that they are designed in a way that automatically also includes a riving knife. Second point is that Rob is using a SawStop table saw, so hypothetically if his hand touches the blade then the blade will retract before it does significant bodily damage. Third point is that a blade guard obstructs vision of the blade, which isn't a safety concern as much as it is bad for viewers of the video who can't see what is happening and also potentially bad for precisely lining up cuts. Final reason off the top of my head (and perhaps the biggest reason) is that a typical blade guard prevents you from making certain cuts, or at least gets in the way. The standard blade guard on most consumer level machines is essentially a plastic hood which hinges off the top of the riving knife. You cannot make cuts unless your cut goes full depth through the wood, or else the uncut portion of the wood will bump on the riving knife extension. This isn't an issue for a blade guard which comes down from above attached to a metal arm or something, but this type of guard not standard. Or if you are using sleds, then the blade guard can get in the way. The idea of having a blade guard that you sometimes need to take off in order to do the type of cut that you want to do means that most people just won't ever put it on. And depending on the shop and operator, time is money. Are these reasons good excuses to choose not to ever use a blade guard? Depends who you ask. It would be nice to say that you should be so diligent about safety that you will always use every single possible safety device, but for some people the perceived risk just isn't high enough to bother using all of the equipment. Usually they're right, sometimes they're wrong. I have never used a table saw blade guard, I don't see it as being that important. I will not use a table saw without a riving knife unless I absolutely have to, and thankfully there isn't much reason not to. If I did, then I would be much more diligent with push sticks and body positioning. It might be worth noting that some people might not use a blade guard because they just think it is uncool. I don't think this is a good reason. But for some people, it might be the reason.
Rob sanding? That's almost as rare as unicorn sightings!! For small stock, I figured using a regular sized shooting board with a smaller plane (#3 or 4 ) would work just as well? In either case, looks like it suits this task quite well!
Watched your video on making a standard size SB right before this one. Why did you mount the plywood with the rabet up here but down (+CA glue edge) in the large SB?
very cute little shooting board! What do you say to creating the rabbet with the block plane after the top is glued. i.e. glue top without rabbet and then run the block plane until it cuts the rabbet as deep and wide as it needs?
Your instruction, presentation and experience is top shelf. Lovely lighting, great teamwork with camera person. I can and do watch your videos intently. 97.5%. 100% when you "find" metrification! 😀
8:09 can some explain the purpose of this step? He says he’s cutting a rabbet but how can he do so accurately using the plane freehand? Then later he uses that skew plane to do the same step again? Would it be okay if I skip these steps and glue up the MDF and plywood parts? Prior to gluing the fence on if I ran my plane back and forth a few times it would cut the rebate, correct?
Am I the only one who developed an eye-tick from that one shaving sticking out of the throat of the block plane until 32:25 when he cleaned it off? I let out a nice little sigh when he removed it. :) I was surprised Rob left it in there because he usually clears out the shavings after each pass. Also, whenever possible, I will use a dado or rabbet on a jig that requires an accurate 90° angle. I do this because my table-saw sled is dialed in to within 0.001" accuracy over 12". Even though I use machinist's squares for most everything I do, I don't think I trust my square or my setup using the square as much as I trust my sled. Over the years, I'm sure my squares have been dropped a few times.
Here is another project you might like: ua-cam.com/video/oIicWPkaxNM/v-deo.html
This is the first and only shooting board build that addresses the little edge that the plane rides on. Congratulations for showing that important step.
Thanks, I hope that makes a difference for folks.
Clamp the plane to the board, clamp the square to the plane, clamp the stop to the square...I'm asking all relatives and friends from now on to just give me clamps for Christmas, Father's Day, and birthday for the rest of my life.
Christmas 🎄 clamping, yes! Clamp the Christmas tree to the floor, clamp grandma to the chair, clamp the kids to the beanbags in front of the TV, clamp your beer to the turkey etc etc
Right? I found this video tedious. Watch Stumpy Nubs and/or Tamar 3x3 make a shooting board and be amazed.
Your attention to detail is second to none
I've never had a shooting board, and I'm 73. On the other hand I'm not great at accurate woodwork. Now I have a few jobs coming up where I can see it being useful, so guess what I'm going to do. Love your video.
Love the sound of those planes. Must be sharp as hell!
That suggestion/trick about cupping the board is solid gold. Thanks Rob!
I have watched a couple of your teaching videos, and the amount of information in any of them is superb. Thank you so much for the lessons. I am a DIYer and, by definition, not an expert on the subject of working with wood. While I have done some projects, I am still a novice carpenter, and I hope to be better by watching and implementing your techniques. Keep up the excellent work!
Love the tip when using plane to cut just the high side first. Never heard that before. Thanks 😊
My shooting board is one of the tools that utterly elevated the quality of my woodworking. Before the shooting board, I couldn’t shoot the end of moulding planes, it has changed soooo much in sooo many areas. Surprised they don’t sell them, I guess because you need to bother to learn how to use and sharpen your planes.😆😆😆😆🤦♀️🤦♀️🤦♀️♥️♥️♥️
Complimenti
Resto sempre incasinato nel vedere i suoi video
Grazie 🇮🇪
Great work and great teaching. Once these kids are tucked in I'll be starting one in my shop.
I’ve watched every single video of yours Mr. Cosman. At least I think I have. I love your new 10 fav woods and 10 woods you don’t like to use
Putting Tape to make the ark. The reason you gave did not make much sense to me, but it definitely will make plane cut better by letting blade slide a little up and down. Great video. I always learn a few tips here and there from each of your video. You are a great teacher. Thanks.
You have your reasoning upside down...
Letting the center bow up allows the middle of the plane (the widest part) always make square contact against the board. Squared contact means the plane is always 90⁰ to the shooting board.
If it were cupped in, then only the narrow ends of the plane would make contact at the sole of the plane while the middle tilts down into the cup... this would also make the plane sole tilt away from the shooting board, giving you a non-squared board which would be nearly useless.
Since you’ve only heard this 25 million times, I’d better add to that and tell you, “great work”! You make it look easy, but my experience tells me that it’s not. Those exact 90 degrees are something I struggle with. Thanks for creating this tutorial.
I'm going to build one this week. It looks so awesome! Rob, would you consider sharing some of your biggest mistakes when you first started? Whether in business or woodworking, it would be truly helpful to beginners like myself. That is if you didn't come out of the womb as a master, haha.
very cool and most usefull tool.i appreciate no annoying back ground music that to many other educational channels do.
Glad you liked it! Luther said we should add some Heavy Metal music to the background?????
The nice thing about this type of project is that it's small, teaches you accuracy and can probably be made from small bits of scrap.
Great job Rob Would you please explain the positioning of the fence (not right at the top edge) as you said you would but didn't.
I see that you glued down the fence. What do you do when it gets out of square? Or does it never?
Great project thanks for showing us how to build the mini shooting board.
Merry christmas
Catching up on some unwatched videos. I just noticed a Sonar Technician rating on your apron! I served as a surface Sonar Tech and instantly recognized the rate! Nice!
Thanks very much Rob! I am thoroughly enjoying your videos and your instructional manner. Looking to retire in the next year or so and this is something that I could definitely see myself doing. Also, as a veteran myself I congratulate you on your Purple Heart Project and all that you are doing.
Excellent video. I had just made one of these before this video came out using a piece of melamine for the base and hickory for the cleat and stop. The small size is super useful for building little projects. Thank you Mr. Cosman, I always learn something from your posts.
Thank you for watching. Merry Christmas
Nice mini-shooter. Looks great and functional too. Now I gotta go build another tool for the workshop. I swear, if I keep watching YT, I'm going to have to build an addition onto the shop for tool storage. Hahaha!😆
Another little project, along with another masterclass! ‘Just what I need, , , It’s what lock downs were made for, thanks Rob.
Just the job for a project over the holidays. Thanks Rob, we can always depend on you for practical ideas and effective, no-nonsense tuition.
Glad it liked it.
Thanks again Rob and Jake. Well done and fun to watch.
I made one a little while back. Had some Macassar Ebony, so mine is a bit fancy!!! Great idea, mine works great. Rob always comes up with all the sweet hookups!!!
Yes but I tried your last time I was at your shop and it was like 13 degrees off!!!!!!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking That’s because you are half a bubble off plumb!!! 😂🤣😂
I enjoy watching your videos, and I have learned so much. Thinking about buying a better block plane than the one I recently bought at lowes to learn. Thanks for all you do!
Rob, this is another great build. To help avoid splitting, I suggest staggering the placement of the screws.
Good tip, but pre drilling should take care of that too
Thanks Rob. Lovely video. Well done. You make it look so simple, but I know it is not that easy.
Each one of these videos is a gift. Thank you. Q = Why don't you allow the first use of the board with the plane to cut the rebate / rabbit.
Because I want my rebate to be bigger than my plane, not right at the edge of my blade. Also, this ensures that it is milled straight and true.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking ????
Sorry, fixed it.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking What and where is the fix?
In the message above, I edited it.
I decided to make a shooting board so thanks a lot.
What do you think about making a dado in that bord for the fence sit into?
Greetings
I made a block plane shooting board after watching your videos a while back as a practice before making the real one you guys are awesome thanks for the videos
How did it turn out?
Amazing how many details to consider for this seemingly simple thing
Thanks for this video. I have been wanting to make a new shooting board. I think this will be the best size for my shop. Especially since my best plane os a block plane.
Nicely done. Love you attention to detail!
Thanks Rob, Jake, and crew. I was watching a video of yours from earlier in the year, and you could really hear the problems with your lungs. I know it was difficult at times, thank you! By the way, I formerly used a wrapping, similar to you hockey tape wrap, without the twist, on the handles of my tennis racquets (then they were for sweat, now I add your twist for my arthritis). Great idea, and it helps a lot.
Thank you Rob! God bless you and your family.
Merry christmas
This is a very useful addition to the workshop. Merry Christmas Rob and Team!
If you make boxes its a MUST
Merry Christmas to you and your family Rob! Thanks for all you do to help us learn and improve.
Thank you for supporting us. Merry Christmas
Looks like a winner!!! I have a bunch of 1/2" mdf and some purple heart scraps for the fence and cleat.
Perfect....and that should look good too
@@RobCosmanWoodworking you say the mdf doesn't need to be more than a half inch, but if I glue lam two half inch pieces together will that hurt? Also I have some 1/4" cherry scraps I could use in place of Baltic birch plywood, would that be ok? Lemme know what you think please.
Thanks!
@@johnburens3395 I wouldn’t make it 1” thick, that would be clumsy looking. As for the scraps, plywood is better because it is more stable, and less prone to warping the MDF.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking got it, Thanks! Btw, guess who got his hands on some hockey tape? I think that tip might have created a monster! Hahahaha
What plane brand was that? They looked very high quality.
Amazing accuracy
Great vid Rob!
Much appreciated the teaching. It is very informative for me.
Would love to see close ups of where you chamfer the edge a little, would like to see what the squirrel 🐿 plane looks like and also a close up of the rabbet you cut on the top piece. I have my 4 pieces of wood and will start assembly on my next day off. Thank you so much for the video . Cathy
Thank you!
Another great video and first to see it bonus, perfect size and project for next week
Glad you like it! Its very useful
I stumbled upon this video and now you have another subscriber.
Welcome to to Cosman channel. Let us help you take your woodworking to the next level
Thanks, Rob~! That one will have a home right next to the bigger one. Hope you and the family/crew had a great Christmas~!
Merry Christmas to you
why didn't I think of this sooner :) Thank you and merry Christmas to you and yours.
Thats what I am here to do !!!!! Merry Christmas
Rob Cosm... Haha those hand stamp brands are a PITA. I find hittin the tip with a propane torch to get it hotter provides better results as I can just hit the surface with the brand for a hot second and pull off... Having to hold it down for however long always gave me sub par results.
Thanks for all the knowledge you share, Rob.
Ps. I appreciate your attention to the minutia... It counts in woodworking and shines in jig making. Cheers
Nice! Got to make one.
Will make that little guy soon. Thanks!
Send us a pic when you get it done
Nice work rob, there hasn't been a video i regret watching and learning from it. Merry christmas to all of you guys that teach us all your woodworking skills right at our finger tips.
You arewelcome. Please keep watching and commenting and hit that Like button please. It helps us out
I like the hockey tape on you clamp handles.
I show how to wrap handles on my tips and tricks video
Thanks
Merry CHRISTMAS Rob!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Oh and by the way..... I started wrapping my clamps with stick tape, OMG, that is a game changer big time!!!
Yes it amazing ....
Don't you think that your LN Skew Block plane is a better option here? I think the skew angle helps a lot for this endgrain operation.
Thank you for the purple heart project
Thank you. Was that hockey tape on the clamp handles?! Great tip to use the scraper to spread the glue. Inspired to make this now.
@RobCosmanWoodworking thanks for the great vid Rob! Question why do you suggest setting the hardwood back a bit? If you run the plane across it a few times after assembled, wouldn't the plane take off anything in the way after just a couple passes (if you extend the blade a bit)?
what bench plane do you use for the large shooting board. Also is that a WR low angle block plane?
I've never seen one like this. Neat idea!
Glad you like it!
What planes do you prefer for your shooting boards and why? Is there a particular reason you don't use the Lie-Nielsen shooting plane? Really appreciate your time and knowledge.
Whichever plane you like, but I recommend at least a 5-1/2 (5 if you have small hands), and nothing smaller. I don’t like single use planes for frequent operations.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thanks Rob for the insight.
It was good timing, I get to watch UA-cam while working today. This is pretty cool and I will be building one, Merry Christmas to you guys🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄👍👍👍👍👍
Happy holidays! Let me know how it turns out
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Will do good Sir.
Great project. Very well presented. Thank you for sharing. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Stay healthy.
Same to you Glen
Thanks for the tutorial regarding the subtleties of making a top notch shooting board. I hope it doesn't sound condescending to say how refreshing it is to see glue application done judiciously, as if it matters.
Most folks use way more glue than is neccessary!
A fantastic video. Thank you, Rob!
Glad you liked it....in fact please push the like button
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Already had, Rob.
HI rob I made one after ur last video and they r so useful. thanks
Thanks
Good video Rob. Do you think an MDF base would be durable enough for a Lie Nielsen #51 shooting plane or should I use something else for the base? Thanks for your time.
Ron
Great project Rob. I believe I'll be giving it a go here at home. Thanks.
Send me a pic
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Will do. Probably won't look like yours.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I tried to send you a picture from the contact us feature on your website but couldn't attach a picture. I need an email address to send it.
Nice job Professor Cos. Can't wait to see what 2021 brings. Merry Christmas to you and family. Also, Col. Shealy a very Merry Christmas Sir. Semper Fi.
Ooh-rah. Merry Christmas to all
Thanks for another great video
You bet
You said for your larger board the plane is a 5 1/2. What would you recommend to purchase for that size to use with the board?
Another great project video. Happy Christmas to you, your family and your team.
Merry Christmas to you
Rob- I couldn’t make out whether the rabbet on the plane edge guide is up or down. I’m assuming up. Is that correct.
😮this works for right angles but what about 45 deg. cuts?
we make a 45 degree shooting board.
Thx Rob! Merry Christmas!
Back at you
Happy xmas rob and team 🎄👍😎🎉🎅
Merry Christmas to you
Merry Christmas, Rob. You said that you would explain why you set back the fence on the shooting board. I must have missed that part of the video. My guess is that it is to ensure the plane does not rotate and cut into the back edge of the fence, blowing it out.
When I put the fence at the end of th eboard (I use to do that) I notice that my students would push the plane off the board caausing th eplne to dive off the end and mess up th ecut so I moved the fence back so that your plane stays on th eramps even after the cut
Great video as usual
Merry Christmas and Happy New year
Same to you
I love your channel, admire your skill, and your generosity to share it all with us. Thank you. Really.
However, as an educator, why not put a blade guard on your table saw? I know a couple people myself who would have saved themselves some trouble had they left theirs on. Apologies if you’ve addressed this already or if I’m mistaken to believe that it’s way safer to use a guard.
I dont know Rob's particular reasons for not using a blade guard, but I'll say a few things I know about the subject.
The biggest thing is that he does have a riving knife installed, and a riving knife is arguably the most important safety feature on a table saw. The riving knife pretty much eliminates the possibility of major kickback. Kickback is dangerous enough since it throws wood at you at a million miles per hour, but kickback can also pull your hand into the blade unexpectedly. Without kickback, the only reason your body will touch the blade is if you are being negligent. With normal saw blades and standard types of cuts, a riving knife will do this without any downsides whatsoever. Good news for most blade guards is that they are designed in a way that automatically also includes a riving knife.
Second point is that Rob is using a SawStop table saw, so hypothetically if his hand touches the blade then the blade will retract before it does significant bodily damage.
Third point is that a blade guard obstructs vision of the blade, which isn't a safety concern as much as it is bad for viewers of the video who can't see what is happening and also potentially bad for precisely lining up cuts.
Final reason off the top of my head (and perhaps the biggest reason) is that a typical blade guard prevents you from making certain cuts, or at least gets in the way. The standard blade guard on most consumer level machines is essentially a plastic hood which hinges off the top of the riving knife. You cannot make cuts unless your cut goes full depth through the wood, or else the uncut portion of the wood will bump on the riving knife extension. This isn't an issue for a blade guard which comes down from above attached to a metal arm or something, but this type of guard not standard. Or if you are using sleds, then the blade guard can get in the way. The idea of having a blade guard that you sometimes need to take off in order to do the type of cut that you want to do means that most people just won't ever put it on. And depending on the shop and operator, time is money.
Are these reasons good excuses to choose not to ever use a blade guard? Depends who you ask. It would be nice to say that you should be so diligent about safety that you will always use every single possible safety device, but for some people the perceived risk just isn't high enough to bother using all of the equipment. Usually they're right, sometimes they're wrong. I have never used a table saw blade guard, I don't see it as being that important. I will not use a table saw without a riving knife unless I absolutely have to, and thankfully there isn't much reason not to. If I did, then I would be much more diligent with push sticks and body positioning.
It might be worth noting that some people might not use a blade guard because they just think it is uncool. I don't think this is a good reason. But for some people, it might be the reason.
I thought the same when I saw how he reaches over the blade to grab the piece
Rob sanding? That's almost as rare as unicorn sightings!! For small stock, I figured using a regular sized shooting board with a smaller plane (#3 or 4 ) would work just as well? In either case, looks like it suits this task quite well!
Yes but this one is so cute!
Watched your video on making a standard size SB right before this one. Why did you mount the plywood with the rabet up here but down (+CA glue edge) in the large SB?
Must have been a mistake to mount it upwards?
very cute little shooting board!
What do you say to creating the rabbet with the block plane after the top is glued. i.e. glue top without rabbet and then run the block plane until it cuts the rabbet as deep and wide as it needs?
I would not do it that way because i want a bit more clearance for the blade than that method would hive
Your instruction, presentation and experience is top shelf. Lovely lighting, great teamwork with camera person.
I can and do watch your videos intently.
97.5%.
100% when you "find" metrification! 😀
8:09 can some explain the purpose of this step? He says he’s cutting a rabbet but how can he do so accurately using the plane freehand? Then later he uses that skew plane to do the same step again?
Would it be okay if I skip these steps and glue up the MDF and plywood parts? Prior to gluing the fence on if I ran my plane back and forth a few times it would cut the rebate, correct?
Thanks again for a great idea and video. I will add this to my shop's arsenal!
Great. What video should we do next?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking it would be very interesting to see how you set the teeth on your dovetail saw
Question: Why not use MDF for the top board?
Just what I needed. Thanks dude!
Awesome. Glad you like it. Thanks for commenting
Another great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey Rob Merry Christmas and Happy New year's
Merry Christmas to you
Am I the only one who developed an eye-tick from that one shaving sticking out of the throat of the block plane until 32:25 when he cleaned it off? I let out a nice little sigh when he removed it. :) I was surprised Rob left it in there because he usually clears out the shavings after each pass.
Also, whenever possible, I will use a dado or rabbet on a jig that requires an accurate 90° angle. I do this because my table-saw sled is dialed in to within 0.001" accuracy over 12". Even though I use machinist's squares for most everything I do, I don't think I trust my square or my setup using the square as much as I trust my sled. Over the years, I'm sure my squares have been dropped a few times.
Oh, I need one of these! Thanks Rob and Happy New Year!
Youre the man
Nice job on the miniature board and since I am new to your site what can you tell me about your shop apron. Looks good
This old coot has been looking for one this size!
Now you can build one