Clamp the plane to the board, clamp the square to the plane, clamp the stop to the square...I'm asking all relatives and friends from now on to just give me clamps for Christmas, Father's Day, and birthday for the rest of my life.
Christmas 🎄 clamping, yes! Clamp the Christmas tree to the floor, clamp grandma to the chair, clamp the kids to the beanbags in front of the TV, clamp your beer to the turkey etc etc
I have watched a couple of your teaching videos, and the amount of information in any of them is superb. Thank you so much for the lessons. I am a DIYer and, by definition, not an expert on the subject of working with wood. While I have done some projects, I am still a novice carpenter, and I hope to be better by watching and implementing your techniques. Keep up the excellent work!
I've never had a shooting board, and I'm 73. On the other hand I'm not great at accurate woodwork. Now I have a few jobs coming up where I can see it being useful, so guess what I'm going to do. Love your video.
Since you’ve only heard this 25 million times, I’d better add to that and tell you, “great work”! You make it look easy, but my experience tells me that it’s not. Those exact 90 degrees are something I struggle with. Thanks for creating this tutorial.
My shooting board is one of the tools that utterly elevated the quality of my woodworking. Before the shooting board, I couldn’t shoot the end of moulding planes, it has changed soooo much in sooo many areas. Surprised they don’t sell them, I guess because you need to bother to learn how to use and sharpen your planes.😆😆😆😆🤦♀️🤦♀️🤦♀️♥️♥️♥️
Excellent video. I had just made one of these before this video came out using a piece of melamine for the base and hickory for the cleat and stop. The small size is super useful for building little projects. Thank you Mr. Cosman, I always learn something from your posts.
Putting Tape to make the ark. The reason you gave did not make much sense to me, but it definitely will make plane cut better by letting blade slide a little up and down. Great video. I always learn a few tips here and there from each of your video. You are a great teacher. Thanks.
You have your reasoning upside down... Letting the center bow up allows the middle of the plane (the widest part) always make square contact against the board. Squared contact means the plane is always 90⁰ to the shooting board. If it were cupped in, then only the narrow ends of the plane would make contact at the sole of the plane while the middle tilts down into the cup... this would also make the plane sole tilt away from the shooting board, giving you a non-squared board which would be nearly useless.
Thanks very much Rob! I am thoroughly enjoying your videos and your instructional manner. Looking to retire in the next year or so and this is something that I could definitely see myself doing. Also, as a veteran myself I congratulate you on your Purple Heart Project and all that you are doing.
Nice mini-shooter. Looks great and functional too. Now I gotta go build another tool for the workshop. I swear, if I keep watching YT, I'm going to have to build an addition onto the shop for tool storage. Hahaha!😆
I made one a little while back. Had some Macassar Ebony, so mine is a bit fancy!!! Great idea, mine works great. Rob always comes up with all the sweet hookups!!!
Thanks Rob, Jake, and crew. I was watching a video of yours from earlier in the year, and you could really hear the problems with your lungs. I know it was difficult at times, thank you! By the way, I formerly used a wrapping, similar to you hockey tape wrap, without the twist, on the handles of my tennis racquets (then they were for sweat, now I add your twist for my arthritis). Great idea, and it helps a lot.
I made a block plane shooting board after watching your videos a while back as a practice before making the real one you guys are awesome thanks for the videos
I enjoy watching your videos, and I have learned so much. Thinking about buying a better block plane than the one I recently bought at lowes to learn. Thanks for all you do!
Nice work rob, there hasn't been a video i regret watching and learning from it. Merry christmas to all of you guys that teach us all your woodworking skills right at our finger tips.
Thanks for this video. I have been wanting to make a new shooting board. I think this will be the best size for my shop. Especially since my best plane os a block plane.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking you say the mdf doesn't need to be more than a half inch, but if I glue lam two half inch pieces together will that hurt? Also I have some 1/4" cherry scraps I could use in place of Baltic birch plywood, would that be ok? Lemme know what you think please. Thanks!
@@johnburens3395 I wouldn’t make it 1” thick, that would be clumsy looking. As for the scraps, plywood is better because it is more stable, and less prone to warping the MDF.
Catching up on some unwatched videos. I just noticed a Sonar Technician rating on your apron! I served as a surface Sonar Tech and instantly recognized the rate! Nice!
Rob Cosm... Haha those hand stamp brands are a PITA. I find hittin the tip with a propane torch to get it hotter provides better results as I can just hit the surface with the brand for a hot second and pull off... Having to hold it down for however long always gave me sub par results. Thanks for all the knowledge you share, Rob. Ps. I appreciate your attention to the minutia... It counts in woodworking and shines in jig making. Cheers
I'm going to build one this week. It looks so awesome! Rob, would you consider sharing some of your biggest mistakes when you first started? Whether in business or woodworking, it would be truly helpful to beginners like myself. That is if you didn't come out of the womb as a master, haha.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I tried to send you a picture from the contact us feature on your website but couldn't attach a picture. I need an email address to send it.
Would love to see close ups of where you chamfer the edge a little, would like to see what the squirrel 🐿 plane looks like and also a close up of the rabbet you cut on the top piece. I have my 4 pieces of wood and will start assembly on my next day off. Thank you so much for the video . Cathy
Your instruction, presentation and experience is top shelf. Lovely lighting, great teamwork with camera person. I can and do watch your videos intently. 97.5%. 100% when you "find" metrification! 😀
Rob sanding? That's almost as rare as unicorn sightings!! For small stock, I figured using a regular sized shooting board with a smaller plane (#3 or 4 ) would work just as well? In either case, looks like it suits this task quite well!
Thanks for the tutorial regarding the subtleties of making a top notch shooting board. I hope it doesn't sound condescending to say how refreshing it is to see glue application done judiciously, as if it matters.
Nice job Professor Cos. Can't wait to see what 2021 brings. Merry Christmas to you and family. Also, Col. Shealy a very Merry Christmas Sir. Semper Fi.
if you dont want glue to slip, its really helpful to let it airdry before putting parts together. it usually tells you on the bottle for how long. in german its called something along the lines of "open time". its like 5 or 10 minutes. you can also tell how long it needs by looking at the edges of the glue. if the edge gets kinda transparent, its ready. that makes the glue kinda tacky, so its less likely to slip around on you :) its a helpful trick, if you dont have enough clamps to make sure it stays straight.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking True - It really depends on how the salt is kept (I store mine in a mason jar, and just a tiny pinch when needed in a strategic spot or two depending on length of glue joint.. so, no clumps.. I do it by feel... as Ive discovered, I can also feel plane chatter - have to since I can't hear it... ) I'll have to watch this when the subtitles kick in on the video and see how your nail method goes... Kind of sucks having to wait 3 - 4 - 12 - 48 hours until auto generated subtitles kick in, but one's gotta do what one's gotta do... ... and By the way, I truly appreciate your videos on planes - I found an ancient Miller's Falls No 9 plane in the cellar, all rusted up.. after watching several of your plane tune-ups , reviews, etc, I dug it out and working at restoring it.. luckily the sole , after sanding the rust off, was nice and flat (still needs some sanding to work out some rust pits) , and got it nicely tuned, (modified the depth adjuster yoke a bit with some 3mm flat washers to reduce wobble) , and even in its unfinished state (needs some final sharpening, sanding, etc) it has turned into the nicest plane I have ever used (not that I ever used very many) with the guidance of your recent videos, I finally understood several parts of that plane that I was clueless about... so, Thanks a ton, and Happy Christmas!
Am I the only one who developed an eye-tick from that one shaving sticking out of the throat of the block plane until 32:25 when he cleaned it off? I let out a nice little sigh when he removed it. :) I was surprised Rob left it in there because he usually clears out the shavings after each pass. Also, whenever possible, I will use a dado or rabbet on a jig that requires an accurate 90° angle. I do this because my table-saw sled is dialed in to within 0.001" accuracy over 12". Even though I use machinist's squares for most everything I do, I don't think I trust my square or my setup using the square as much as I trust my sled. Over the years, I'm sure my squares have been dropped a few times.
Great video Rob, thank you! But I have to say that I want to challenge you on making a version for the large percentage of people that do not have a cabinet makers table saw. In my country good cabinet maker saws with the kind of precission are not available, period. Happy Holidays and thank you for the great content!
Good video Rob. Do you think an MDF base would be durable enough for a Lie Nielsen #51 shooting plane or should I use something else for the base? Thanks for your time. Ron
I love your channel, admire your skill, and your generosity to share it all with us. Thank you. Really. However, as an educator, why not put a blade guard on your table saw? I know a couple people myself who would have saved themselves some trouble had they left theirs on. Apologies if you’ve addressed this already or if I’m mistaken to believe that it’s way safer to use a guard.
I dont know Rob's particular reasons for not using a blade guard, but I'll say a few things I know about the subject. The biggest thing is that he does have a riving knife installed, and a riving knife is arguably the most important safety feature on a table saw. The riving knife pretty much eliminates the possibility of major kickback. Kickback is dangerous enough since it throws wood at you at a million miles per hour, but kickback can also pull your hand into the blade unexpectedly. Without kickback, the only reason your body will touch the blade is if you are being negligent. With normal saw blades and standard types of cuts, a riving knife will do this without any downsides whatsoever. Good news for most blade guards is that they are designed in a way that automatically also includes a riving knife. Second point is that Rob is using a SawStop table saw, so hypothetically if his hand touches the blade then the blade will retract before it does significant bodily damage. Third point is that a blade guard obstructs vision of the blade, which isn't a safety concern as much as it is bad for viewers of the video who can't see what is happening and also potentially bad for precisely lining up cuts. Final reason off the top of my head (and perhaps the biggest reason) is that a typical blade guard prevents you from making certain cuts, or at least gets in the way. The standard blade guard on most consumer level machines is essentially a plastic hood which hinges off the top of the riving knife. You cannot make cuts unless your cut goes full depth through the wood, or else the uncut portion of the wood will bump on the riving knife extension. This isn't an issue for a blade guard which comes down from above attached to a metal arm or something, but this type of guard not standard. Or if you are using sleds, then the blade guard can get in the way. The idea of having a blade guard that you sometimes need to take off in order to do the type of cut that you want to do means that most people just won't ever put it on. And depending on the shop and operator, time is money. Are these reasons good excuses to choose not to ever use a blade guard? Depends who you ask. It would be nice to say that you should be so diligent about safety that you will always use every single possible safety device, but for some people the perceived risk just isn't high enough to bother using all of the equipment. Usually they're right, sometimes they're wrong. I have never used a table saw blade guard, I don't see it as being that important. I will not use a table saw without a riving knife unless I absolutely have to, and thankfully there isn't much reason not to. If I did, then I would be much more diligent with push sticks and body positioning. It might be worth noting that some people might not use a blade guard because they just think it is uncool. I don't think this is a good reason. But for some people, it might be the reason.
Merry Christmas, Rob. You said that you would explain why you set back the fence on the shooting board. I must have missed that part of the video. My guess is that it is to ensure the plane does not rotate and cut into the back edge of the fence, blowing it out.
When I put the fence at the end of th eboard (I use to do that) I notice that my students would push the plane off the board caausing th eplne to dive off the end and mess up th ecut so I moved the fence back so that your plane stays on th eramps even after the cut
Rob Cosman This is John Griffin I want to take back what said the other night, And I want to apologies, I watch your shows, and its like going to the movies on Saturday night,
A “scrap of Bubinga” he sez. Got pine or oak here! Wish foreign wood was not exorbitant in price. I know that you have left overs from making tools though. Would use it if I had the luxury for sure
very cute little shooting board! What do you say to creating the rabbet with the block plane after the top is glued. i.e. glue top without rabbet and then run the block plane until it cuts the rabbet as deep and wide as it needs?
Thanks for ALL the content. It's been a huge help as I've started to take my woodworking more seriously. I have two different sized shooting boards and a bench hook based on your plans. However, I'm struggling with getting my case mitres to close perfectly off my tablesaw even with a mitre sled and a digital gauge. Do you have any thoughts or plans for a case mitre shooting board for small to mid-sized parts (ie. for decorative boxes)?
I see I'm two years late on answering what may help you fit small box miter pieces that fit prefect. I cannot not use my power miter saw for these small cuts, first it's dangerous or it splinters thin trim cuts. I cut close to my miter cut mark with a bandsaw and finish the miter using my tabletop disc sander using the sliding miter gauge.
Here is another project you might like: ua-cam.com/video/oIicWPkaxNM/v-deo.html
Clamp the plane to the board, clamp the square to the plane, clamp the stop to the square...I'm asking all relatives and friends from now on to just give me clamps for Christmas, Father's Day, and birthday for the rest of my life.
Christmas 🎄 clamping, yes! Clamp the Christmas tree to the floor, clamp grandma to the chair, clamp the kids to the beanbags in front of the TV, clamp your beer to the turkey etc etc
Right? I found this video tedious. Watch Stumpy Nubs and/or Tamar 3x3 make a shooting board and be amazed.
Your attention to detail is second to none
I have watched a couple of your teaching videos, and the amount of information in any of them is superb. Thank you so much for the lessons. I am a DIYer and, by definition, not an expert on the subject of working with wood. While I have done some projects, I am still a novice carpenter, and I hope to be better by watching and implementing your techniques. Keep up the excellent work!
That suggestion/trick about cupping the board is solid gold. Thanks Rob!
Love the sound of those planes. Must be sharp as hell!
I've never had a shooting board, and I'm 73. On the other hand I'm not great at accurate woodwork. Now I have a few jobs coming up where I can see it being useful, so guess what I'm going to do. Love your video.
Complimenti
Resto sempre incasinato nel vedere i suoi video
Grazie 🇮🇪
Love the tip when using plane to cut just the high side first. Never heard that before. Thanks 😊
Since you’ve only heard this 25 million times, I’d better add to that and tell you, “great work”! You make it look easy, but my experience tells me that it’s not. Those exact 90 degrees are something I struggle with. Thanks for creating this tutorial.
I’ve watched every single video of yours Mr. Cosman. At least I think I have. I love your new 10 fav woods and 10 woods you don’t like to use
Great work and great teaching. Once these kids are tucked in I'll be starting one in my shop.
My shooting board is one of the tools that utterly elevated the quality of my woodworking. Before the shooting board, I couldn’t shoot the end of moulding planes, it has changed soooo much in sooo many areas. Surprised they don’t sell them, I guess because you need to bother to learn how to use and sharpen your planes.😆😆😆😆🤦♀️🤦♀️🤦♀️♥️♥️♥️
Great project thanks for showing us how to build the mini shooting board.
Merry christmas
Excellent video. I had just made one of these before this video came out using a piece of melamine for the base and hickory for the cleat and stop. The small size is super useful for building little projects. Thank you Mr. Cosman, I always learn something from your posts.
Thank you for watching. Merry Christmas
Putting Tape to make the ark. The reason you gave did not make much sense to me, but it definitely will make plane cut better by letting blade slide a little up and down. Great video. I always learn a few tips here and there from each of your video. You are a great teacher. Thanks.
You have your reasoning upside down...
Letting the center bow up allows the middle of the plane (the widest part) always make square contact against the board. Squared contact means the plane is always 90⁰ to the shooting board.
If it were cupped in, then only the narrow ends of the plane would make contact at the sole of the plane while the middle tilts down into the cup... this would also make the plane sole tilt away from the shooting board, giving you a non-squared board which would be nearly useless.
Another little project, along with another masterclass! ‘Just what I need, , , It’s what lock downs were made for, thanks Rob.
Thanks very much Rob! I am thoroughly enjoying your videos and your instructional manner. Looking to retire in the next year or so and this is something that I could definitely see myself doing. Also, as a veteran myself I congratulate you on your Purple Heart Project and all that you are doing.
Thanks again Rob and Jake. Well done and fun to watch.
Nice mini-shooter. Looks great and functional too. Now I gotta go build another tool for the workshop. I swear, if I keep watching YT, I'm going to have to build an addition onto the shop for tool storage. Hahaha!😆
Just the job for a project over the holidays. Thanks Rob, we can always depend on you for practical ideas and effective, no-nonsense tuition.
Glad it liked it.
The nice thing about this type of project is that it's small, teaches you accuracy and can probably be made from small bits of scrap.
I made one a little while back. Had some Macassar Ebony, so mine is a bit fancy!!! Great idea, mine works great. Rob always comes up with all the sweet hookups!!!
Yes but I tried your last time I was at your shop and it was like 13 degrees off!!!!!!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking That’s because you are half a bubble off plumb!!! 😂🤣😂
Thank you Rob! God bless you and your family.
Merry christmas
Thanks Rob, Jake, and crew. I was watching a video of yours from earlier in the year, and you could really hear the problems with your lungs. I know it was difficult at times, thank you! By the way, I formerly used a wrapping, similar to you hockey tape wrap, without the twist, on the handles of my tennis racquets (then they were for sweat, now I add your twist for my arthritis). Great idea, and it helps a lot.
I made a block plane shooting board after watching your videos a while back as a practice before making the real one you guys are awesome thanks for the videos
How did it turn out?
Nicely done. Love you attention to detail!
very cool and most usefull tool.i appreciate no annoying back ground music that to many other educational channels do.
Glad you liked it! Luther said we should add some Heavy Metal music to the background?????
Thanks Rob. Lovely video. Well done. You make it look so simple, but I know it is not that easy.
Rob, this is another great build. To help avoid splitting, I suggest staggering the placement of the screws.
Good tip, but pre drilling should take care of that too
Merry Christmas to you and your family Rob! Thanks for all you do to help us learn and improve.
Thank you for supporting us. Merry Christmas
I enjoy watching your videos, and I have learned so much. Thinking about buying a better block plane than the one I recently bought at lowes to learn. Thanks for all you do!
Amazing how many details to consider for this seemingly simple thing
Much appreciated the teaching. It is very informative for me.
Another great video and first to see it bonus, perfect size and project for next week
Glad you like it! Its very useful
Nice work rob, there hasn't been a video i regret watching and learning from it. Merry christmas to all of you guys that teach us all your woodworking skills right at our finger tips.
You arewelcome. Please keep watching and commenting and hit that Like button please. It helps us out
I stumbled upon this video and now you have another subscriber.
Welcome to to Cosman channel. Let us help you take your woodworking to the next level
This is a very useful addition to the workshop. Merry Christmas Rob and Team!
If you make boxes its a MUST
Thanks for this video. I have been wanting to make a new shooting board. I think this will be the best size for my shop. Especially since my best plane os a block plane.
Looks like a winner!!! I have a bunch of 1/2" mdf and some purple heart scraps for the fence and cleat.
Perfect....and that should look good too
@@RobCosmanWoodworking you say the mdf doesn't need to be more than a half inch, but if I glue lam two half inch pieces together will that hurt? Also I have some 1/4" cherry scraps I could use in place of Baltic birch plywood, would that be ok? Lemme know what you think please.
Thanks!
@@johnburens3395 I wouldn’t make it 1” thick, that would be clumsy looking. As for the scraps, plywood is better because it is more stable, and less prone to warping the MDF.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking got it, Thanks! Btw, guess who got his hands on some hockey tape? I think that tip might have created a monster! Hahahaha
Thank you for the purple heart project
A fantastic video. Thank you, Rob!
Glad you liked it....in fact please push the like button
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Already had, Rob.
why didn't I think of this sooner :) Thank you and merry Christmas to you and yours.
Thats what I am here to do !!!!! Merry Christmas
I've never seen one like this. Neat idea!
Glad you like it!
Will make that little guy soon. Thanks!
Send us a pic when you get it done
Thanks, Rob~! That one will have a home right next to the bigger one. Hope you and the family/crew had a great Christmas~!
Merry Christmas to you
Catching up on some unwatched videos. I just noticed a Sonar Technician rating on your apron! I served as a surface Sonar Tech and instantly recognized the rate! Nice!
Amazing accuracy
Great vid Rob!
I like the hockey tape on you clamp handles.
I show how to wrap handles on my tips and tricks video
Rob Cosm... Haha those hand stamp brands are a PITA. I find hittin the tip with a propane torch to get it hotter provides better results as I can just hit the surface with the brand for a hot second and pull off... Having to hold it down for however long always gave me sub par results.
Thanks for all the knowledge you share, Rob.
Ps. I appreciate your attention to the minutia... It counts in woodworking and shines in jig making. Cheers
I'm going to build one this week. It looks so awesome! Rob, would you consider sharing some of your biggest mistakes when you first started? Whether in business or woodworking, it would be truly helpful to beginners like myself. That is if you didn't come out of the womb as a master, haha.
Great project Rob. I believe I'll be giving it a go here at home. Thanks.
Send me a pic
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Will do. Probably won't look like yours.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I tried to send you a picture from the contact us feature on your website but couldn't attach a picture. I need an email address to send it.
Nice! Got to make one.
I am in complete agreement that everyone should have a router plane in their workshop. I love playing with my Hag's Tooth.
Great project. Very well presented. Thank you for sharing. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Stay healthy.
Same to you Glen
Another great project video. Happy Christmas to you, your family and your team.
Merry Christmas to you
Would love to see close ups of where you chamfer the edge a little, would like to see what the squirrel 🐿 plane looks like and also a close up of the rabbet you cut on the top piece. I have my 4 pieces of wood and will start assembly on my next day off. Thank you so much for the video . Cathy
Each one of these videos is a gift. Thank you. Q = Why don't you allow the first use of the board with the plane to cut the rebate / rabbit.
Because I want my rebate to be bigger than my plane, not right at the edge of my blade. Also, this ensures that it is milled straight and true.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking ????
Sorry, fixed it.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking What and where is the fix?
In the message above, I edited it.
Thanks for another great video
You bet
Just what I needed. Thanks dude!
Awesome. Glad you like it. Thanks for commenting
Thanks again for a great idea and video. I will add this to my shop's arsenal!
Great. What video should we do next?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking it would be very interesting to see how you set the teeth on your dovetail saw
This old coot has been looking for one this size!
Now you can build one
Очень полезный ролик, спасибо Вам!
Can't wait till I'm off work to see this video!!
Let me know what you think once you watch it
@@RobCosmanWoodworking absolutely!
Oh, I need one of these! Thanks Rob and Happy New Year!
Thank you!
Your instruction, presentation and experience is top shelf. Lovely lighting, great teamwork with camera person.
I can and do watch your videos intently.
97.5%.
100% when you "find" metrification! 😀
It was good timing, I get to watch UA-cam while working today. This is pretty cool and I will be building one, Merry Christmas to you guys🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄👍👍👍👍👍
Happy holidays! Let me know how it turns out
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Will do good Sir.
Thx Rob! Merry Christmas!
Back at you
Rob sanding? That's almost as rare as unicorn sightings!! For small stock, I figured using a regular sized shooting board with a smaller plane (#3 or 4 ) would work just as well? In either case, looks like it suits this task quite well!
Yes but this one is so cute!
Merry CHRISTMAS Rob!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Oh and by the way..... I started wrapping my clamps with stick tape, OMG, that is a game changer big time!!!
Yes it amazing ....
Thanks for the tutorial regarding the subtleties of making a top notch shooting board. I hope it doesn't sound condescending to say how refreshing it is to see glue application done judiciously, as if it matters.
Most folks use way more glue than is neccessary!
HI rob I made one after ur last video and they r so useful. thanks
Thanks
Another great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice job Professor Cos. Can't wait to see what 2021 brings. Merry Christmas to you and family. Also, Col. Shealy a very Merry Christmas Sir. Semper Fi.
Ooh-rah. Merry Christmas to all
Great video as usual
Merry Christmas and Happy New year
Same to you
Youre the man
Happy xmas rob and team 🎄👍😎🎉🎅
Merry Christmas to you
Awesome and neat tks rob!
You bet
Hey Rob Merry Christmas and Happy New year's
Merry Christmas to you
I see that you glued down the fence. What do you do when it gets out of square? Or does it never?
Thanks
I decided to make a shooting board so thanks a lot.
What do you think about making a dado in that bord for the fence sit into?
Greetings
if you dont want glue to slip, its really helpful to let it airdry before putting parts together. it usually tells you on the bottle for how long. in german its called something along the lines of "open time". its like 5 or 10 minutes. you can also tell how long it needs by looking at the edges of the glue. if the edge gets kinda transparent, its ready. that makes the glue kinda tacky, so its less likely to slip around on you :) its a helpful trick, if you dont have enough clamps to make sure it stays straight.
Or, just sprinkle on a little regular table salt.. it dissolves in the water based glue, but the grit lasts long enough to help prevent slipping.
I don’t like the salt method as if you do too much or grab a salt shaker with salt clumps in it the clump may not desolve. I like my nail method
@@RobCosmanWoodworking True - It really depends on how the salt is kept (I store mine in a mason jar, and just a tiny pinch when needed in a strategic spot or two depending on length of glue joint.. so, no clumps.. I do it by feel... as Ive discovered, I can also feel plane chatter - have to since I can't hear it... ) I'll have to watch this when the subtitles kick in on the video and see how your nail method goes... Kind of sucks having to wait 3 - 4 - 12 - 48 hours until auto generated subtitles kick in, but one's gotta do what one's gotta do... ...
and By the way, I truly appreciate your videos on planes - I found an ancient Miller's Falls No 9 plane in the cellar, all rusted up.. after watching several of your plane tune-ups , reviews, etc, I dug it out and working at restoring it.. luckily the sole , after sanding the rust off, was nice and flat (still needs some sanding to work out some rust pits) , and got it nicely tuned, (modified the depth adjuster yoke a bit with some 3mm flat washers to reduce wobble) , and even in its unfinished state (needs some final sharpening, sanding, etc) it has turned into the nicest plane I have ever used (not that I ever used very many) with the guidance of your recent videos, I finally understood several parts of that plane that I was clueless about... so, Thanks a ton, and Happy Christmas!
cool, thanks
Thank you. Was that hockey tape on the clamp handles?! Great tip to use the scraper to spread the glue. Inspired to make this now.
Great job Rob Would you please explain the positioning of the fence (not right at the top edge) as you said you would but didn't.
Am I the only one who developed an eye-tick from that one shaving sticking out of the throat of the block plane until 32:25 when he cleaned it off? I let out a nice little sigh when he removed it. :) I was surprised Rob left it in there because he usually clears out the shavings after each pass.
Also, whenever possible, I will use a dado or rabbet on a jig that requires an accurate 90° angle. I do this because my table-saw sled is dialed in to within 0.001" accuracy over 12". Even though I use machinist's squares for most everything I do, I don't think I trust my square or my setup using the square as much as I trust my sled. Over the years, I'm sure my squares have been dropped a few times.
What plane brand was that? They looked very high quality.
Great video Rob, thank you! But I have to say that I want to challenge you on making a version for the large percentage of people that do not have a cabinet makers table saw. In my country good cabinet maker saws with the kind of precission are not available, period. Happy Holidays and thank you for the great content!
Just use aaw to make a rough cut then pul out your plane and plane your rough cut to your line
Good video Rob. Do you think an MDF base would be durable enough for a Lie Nielsen #51 shooting plane or should I use something else for the base? Thanks for your time.
Ron
I love your channel, admire your skill, and your generosity to share it all with us. Thank you. Really.
However, as an educator, why not put a blade guard on your table saw? I know a couple people myself who would have saved themselves some trouble had they left theirs on. Apologies if you’ve addressed this already or if I’m mistaken to believe that it’s way safer to use a guard.
I dont know Rob's particular reasons for not using a blade guard, but I'll say a few things I know about the subject.
The biggest thing is that he does have a riving knife installed, and a riving knife is arguably the most important safety feature on a table saw. The riving knife pretty much eliminates the possibility of major kickback. Kickback is dangerous enough since it throws wood at you at a million miles per hour, but kickback can also pull your hand into the blade unexpectedly. Without kickback, the only reason your body will touch the blade is if you are being negligent. With normal saw blades and standard types of cuts, a riving knife will do this without any downsides whatsoever. Good news for most blade guards is that they are designed in a way that automatically also includes a riving knife.
Second point is that Rob is using a SawStop table saw, so hypothetically if his hand touches the blade then the blade will retract before it does significant bodily damage.
Third point is that a blade guard obstructs vision of the blade, which isn't a safety concern as much as it is bad for viewers of the video who can't see what is happening and also potentially bad for precisely lining up cuts.
Final reason off the top of my head (and perhaps the biggest reason) is that a typical blade guard prevents you from making certain cuts, or at least gets in the way. The standard blade guard on most consumer level machines is essentially a plastic hood which hinges off the top of the riving knife. You cannot make cuts unless your cut goes full depth through the wood, or else the uncut portion of the wood will bump on the riving knife extension. This isn't an issue for a blade guard which comes down from above attached to a metal arm or something, but this type of guard not standard. Or if you are using sleds, then the blade guard can get in the way. The idea of having a blade guard that you sometimes need to take off in order to do the type of cut that you want to do means that most people just won't ever put it on. And depending on the shop and operator, time is money.
Are these reasons good excuses to choose not to ever use a blade guard? Depends who you ask. It would be nice to say that you should be so diligent about safety that you will always use every single possible safety device, but for some people the perceived risk just isn't high enough to bother using all of the equipment. Usually they're right, sometimes they're wrong. I have never used a table saw blade guard, I don't see it as being that important. I will not use a table saw without a riving knife unless I absolutely have to, and thankfully there isn't much reason not to. If I did, then I would be much more diligent with push sticks and body positioning.
It might be worth noting that some people might not use a blade guard because they just think it is uncool. I don't think this is a good reason. But for some people, it might be the reason.
I thought the same when I saw how he reaches over the blade to grab the piece
Merry Christmas, Rob. You said that you would explain why you set back the fence on the shooting board. I must have missed that part of the video. My guess is that it is to ensure the plane does not rotate and cut into the back edge of the fence, blowing it out.
When I put the fence at the end of th eboard (I use to do that) I notice that my students would push the plane off the board caausing th eplne to dive off the end and mess up th ecut so I moved the fence back so that your plane stays on th eramps even after the cut
Rob Cosman This is John Griffin I want to take back what said the other night, And I want to apologies, I watch your shows, and its like going to the movies on Saturday night,
No harm done John, thanks for reaching out. You have a good day!
Never tried it but saw somewhere that table salt will stop your wood from drifting when clamping.
Hi Rob, a check with a square on the shot piece would have verified the squareness of the fence.
A “scrap of Bubinga” he sez. Got pine or oak here! Wish foreign wood was not exorbitant in price. I know that you have left overs from making tools though. Would use it if I had the luxury for sure
very cute little shooting board!
What do you say to creating the rabbet with the block plane after the top is glued. i.e. glue top without rabbet and then run the block plane until it cuts the rabbet as deep and wide as it needs?
I would not do it that way because i want a bit more clearance for the blade than that method would hive
Thanks for ALL the content. It's been a huge help as I've started to take my woodworking more seriously. I have two different sized shooting boards and a bench hook based on your plans. However, I'm struggling with getting my case mitres to close perfectly off my tablesaw even with a mitre sled and a digital gauge. Do you have any thoughts or plans for a case mitre shooting board for small to mid-sized parts (ie. for decorative boxes)?
I see I'm two years late on answering what may help you fit small box miter pieces that fit prefect. I cannot not use my power miter saw for these small cuts, first it's dangerous or it splinters thin trim cuts. I cut close to my miter cut mark with a bandsaw and finish the miter using my tabletop disc sander using the sliding miter gauge.