I'm sure you've figured this out by now, but 3/4 in circle is about all you'll ever get from a 1/4 in blade. The Stabilizer is really designed, I think, for a 3/16 in blade in repetitive work, as opposed to the occasional use. That way the setup time is proportionately less. Also, whatever size blade you use it will run it to the tightest circle and keep the cut fairly square to the table. It will also significantly reduce blade breakage on the narrower blades. That said, it does a poor job on general use - drifts awfully. In short, it's a tool for specific usage, like the reindeer you did, and not as an upgrade for conventional guides.
With the 1/4" blade try rounding the back side of the blade with a sharping stone or the like, might work easier and backing out is easier. But with my bandsaw and the Carter Stabilizer I use a 1/8" blade and it is almost like using a scroll saw. Happy New Year!
Thanks for the great tips Bill. I can't seem to find a 1/8" x 105" blade in my area. I might have to order one online. It would be cool to use a bandsaw as a scroll saw. I have seen the Carter videos and he spins the wood around using a 1/4" blade, but I can't seem to do the same. I will keep trying. Thanks.
When I've seen Snodgress use that stabilizer he's got it a few inches above the workpiece, likely to allow the blade more length along which to flex/turn.
I still use it. I find that you have to keep the feed rate going even if you are almost twisting the blade more than you think it can handle. This is where practice is best, people turn the stock but stop feeding it into the teeth. Also a new sharp blade works the best to make tight arc cuts. Thanks for watching.
I bought mine from www.leevalley.com don't know if you have one in your area. They are designed by www.carterproducts.com maybe are available at a woodworking store near you.
having to adjust tracking is a weakness of this set up. I personally want to mess with my tracking as little as I have to. I can say with confidence for my saw anyway (laguna) my blade would jump off the wheels with that much tension on it without adjusting the tracking. If you go by what carter says this thing is the easiest thing and there aren't any adjustments. Bologna.
I have been using the stabilizer for about two months. Before I installed it the saw would not drift when doing a rip on a 4" board. No drift at all. This is not the case now that I have the stabilizer installed.
Good to know.I have not yet tried a rip cut with it. Are you able to get a tighter turning radius with it than without? I can't seem to get that like they do in their company videos. I suppose I will be changing setups on the bandsaw a lot depending on the cuts that I need to make.
I haven't given radius cuts much concern. I mainly make toy cars and bandsaw boxes to give away, mostly at Christmas. I've so far been able to cut any radius I've needed to. I us Forstner bits to make most circles. I try to not go smaller than my spindle sander will sand. Also, I am using a 1/8" blade. I have wondered if the Stabilizer puts enough pressure on the bandsaw blade to force the teeth off center and thus cause drift? One thing I like about the Stabilizer is you can't damage the blade on those alignment wheels. With a 1/8" blade that is easy to do. It also means this 79 yr old man doesn't have to squad and adjust those wheels. For me that's a real PAIN. Enjoy your videos Paul and I did subscribe.
I'm making my own. Two bearings, sandwich a washer between them and anchor it to stock that fits in the guide. It's $80 at carter's website PLUS $15 shipping and another $7 for taxes. What a stupid price for this.
Just what I thought, (eg make my own PLUS "all that money for a bearing with a groove in it, huh". ). I was thinking of getting a bearing and then holding it in a drill to spin it at high speed then create a groove in it with a hacksaw or similar. Or even make like a roller from nylon or similar with a groove in middle or something along those lines. The Carter Stabiliser is now about $150.
I set the height for the initial cut with the work piece on its side and left it there when I was cutting it on the face because I wanted to cut it in one move without stopping the saw to readjust the height. But you are right, technically I should have lowered it. Thanks for watching.
You state that the stabilizer replaces all 6 bearings. You only showed the stabilizer replacing the TOP three bearings. Did you install a second stabilizer unit to replace the lower bearings also?
In the video at the 1:57 mark I state that you can simply push the bearings back out of the way. You can also see when I am adjusting the tracking at the 2:55 mark that the lower bearings are pushed back. Only one stabilizer is needed on your bandsaw, no other bearings are needed. Thank you for watching.
I'm sure you've figured this out by now, but 3/4 in circle is about all you'll ever get from a 1/4 in blade. The Stabilizer is really designed, I think, for a 3/16 in blade in repetitive work, as opposed to the occasional use. That way the setup time is proportionately less. Also, whatever size blade you use it will run it to the tightest circle and keep the cut fairly square to the table. It will also significantly reduce blade breakage on the narrower blades. That said, it does a poor job on general use - drifts awfully. In short, it's a tool for specific usage, like the reindeer you did, and not as an upgrade for conventional guides.
Those first cuts are way better than I thought a 1/4 blade would cut!
With the 1/4" blade try rounding the back side of the blade with a sharping stone or the like, might work easier and backing out is easier. But with my bandsaw and the Carter Stabilizer I use a 1/8" blade and it is almost like using a scroll saw. Happy New Year!
Thanks for the great tips Bill. I can't seem to find a 1/8" x 105" blade in my area. I might have to order one online. It would be cool to use a bandsaw as a scroll saw. I have seen the Carter videos and he spins the wood around using a 1/4" blade, but I can't seem to do the same. I will keep trying. Thanks.
When I've seen Snodgress use that stabilizer he's got it a few inches above the workpiece, likely to allow the blade more length along which to flex/turn.
Narrower Blade will give tighter radius
Paul, according to the date of this video it's been three years. I'm wondering what's your experiences been to day as of October 2020
I still use it. I find that you have to keep the feed rate going even if you are almost twisting the blade more than you think it can handle. This is where practice is best, people turn the stock but stop feeding it into the teeth. Also a new sharp blade works the best to make tight arc cuts. Thanks for watching.
Whereabouts are these available from? I hate when I pull the blade off the wheel pulling out of a cut! 😡😡😡
I bought mine from www.leevalley.com don't know if you have one in your area.
They are designed by www.carterproducts.com maybe are available at a woodworking store near you.
having to adjust tracking is a weakness of this set up. I personally want to mess with my tracking as little as I have to. I can say with confidence for my saw anyway (laguna) my blade would jump off the wheels with that much tension on it without adjusting the tracking. If you go by what carter says this thing is the easiest thing and there aren't any adjustments. Bologna.
I have been using the stabilizer for about two months. Before I installed it the saw would not drift when doing a rip on a 4" board. No drift at all. This is not the case now that I have the stabilizer installed.
Good to know.I have not yet tried a rip cut with it.
Are you able to get a tighter turning radius with it than without? I can't seem to get that like they do in their company videos.
I suppose I will be changing setups on the bandsaw a lot depending on the cuts that I need to make.
I haven't given radius cuts much concern. I mainly make toy cars and bandsaw boxes to give away, mostly at Christmas. I've so far been able to cut any radius I've needed to. I us Forstner bits to make most circles. I try to not go smaller than my spindle sander will sand. Also, I am using a 1/8" blade.
I have wondered if the Stabilizer puts enough pressure on the bandsaw blade to force the teeth off center and thus cause drift? One thing I like about the Stabilizer is you can't damage the blade on those alignment wheels. With a 1/8" blade that is easy to do. It also means this 79 yr old man doesn't have to squad and adjust those wheels. For me that's a real PAIN. Enjoy your videos Paul and I did subscribe.
I'm making my own. Two bearings, sandwich a washer between them and anchor it to stock that fits in the guide. It's $80 at carter's website PLUS $15 shipping and another $7 for taxes. What a stupid price for this.
I'd like to see your design.
Just what I thought, (eg make my own PLUS "all that money for a bearing with a groove in it, huh". ). I was thinking of getting a bearing and then holding it in a drill to spin it at high speed then create a groove in it with a hacksaw or similar. Or even make like a roller from nylon or similar with a groove in middle or something along those lines. The Carter Stabiliser is now about $150.
Paul,
I noticed you didn’t move the bearing close to the work. An oversight or is this the way the Carter stabilizer is supposed to be used? Thanks
I set the height for the initial cut with the work piece on its side and left it there when I was cutting it on the face because I wanted to cut it in one move without stopping the saw to readjust the height. But you are right, technically I should have lowered it.
Thanks for watching.
Nice ! Reindeer stencil (plans) please.
desrecording I did a similar thing for one of my Christmas videos this year, there's plans for it on my website.
Thanks for reminding me, I forgot to include the template link in the description. It should be there now. Let me know if it works for you. Thanks.
Paul Pomerleau Works ! Thanks ! I need that guide now
I just found tour channel. Good job
You state that the stabilizer replaces all 6 bearings. You only showed the stabilizer replacing the TOP three bearings. Did you install a second stabilizer unit to replace the lower bearings also?
In the video at the 1:57 mark I state that you can simply push the bearings back out of the way. You can also see when I am adjusting the tracking at the 2:55 mark that the lower bearings are pushed back. Only one stabilizer is needed on your bandsaw, no other bearings are needed. Thank you for watching.