Struggled for an hour to install a blade in my Delta 28-203. I bought it used with no manual. I just about used up my daily ration of patience so I fired up the UA-cam and found this video. Just shy of 12 minutes later I was able to get the blade in and start making sawdust. Thanks a ton!!!
*Perfect band saw for the hobby enthusiast **MyBest.Tools** Easy to set up and square. Had it running in 10 to 15 minutes. Quality of cuts will depend on the quality of the blades.*
I've found using two sets of feeler gauges to set the blade guides much easier,insert a 0.2mm feeler blade each side push the guides in and pinch them up.
This little band saw has turned out to be the best tool purchase I've ever made ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx5ZrqmYO2uJq_nuU8TopyWxVzn8vqmPUL Once doing the set-up as per the included suggestions, this table top tool has been my go-to saw ever since (8 months as of this review). There are few things I wouldn't attempt with this saw. It takes up much less space than my table saw yet delivers twice as much punch. I've used it to create slices of wood no thicker than an 1/16th of inch by using the POWERTEC BS900RF Rip Fence. For small shop projects this tool can't be beat.
Great video. Simple adjustments make a huge difference. A lot of parts to a bandsaw and this video shows the importance to get all these parts to working together. and not against you.
Thank you for a v clear and concise video about 'fine tuning'. Great explanatory close up shots made the whole thing clear to me, a starter with using a bandsaw. So many videos are unclear, too fast talking and vague photography. Thank you again.
@@Woodumakeit Maybe a little overkill, but it was cheap. Got it for $780 An old cast iron saw with 2 steps start in perfect condition. Have not tried it yet, the last parts will arrive Wednesday. Can hardly wait. My neighbor had a telehandler I could borrow to get it into the workshop.
Good information. I want to replace the bottom bearing (5:47 on the video) but there is no room to access it after removing the table. Is this bearing part of another part of the saw? Would appreciate it if you will tell me how to replace same. Thank you.
I am a use and abouse bandsaw user. Really, never have a need until a recent project calls for more precision. What I got out of video, is that all guides the should be adjusted every time a blade is changed.
I just subscribed and i saw only two videos but i liked the simple way you explain all the details, congratulations. I have a hobby band saw and it has basically no such features like yours to set up the blade, only a couple of bearings, unfortunately. I always searching for some devices in the web that may fit to my band saw. I am planning to go to US next year and maybe i can find some! Thanks for the video, I´ll try to watch the others too!!
Good information! Thank you for sharing. What would be the reason that back upper wheel assembly (thicker part that house the ball bearing) rubbed against the hinge?
My pulley on my blade wheel (not the motor pulley) works itself loose and comes off. I have re-positioned it and tightened the set screw several times, but in a few minutes of using it, it works loose again. Someone suggested I coat the set screw and keyway with JB Weld. What would you do about this problem? Thank you.
Good video on setting up a band saw. I'd be interested how the 3/4 resaw king blade is working out. A lot of information on 14" bandaws say the max blade width you should use is 1/2 ". Is your saw still doing well with the 3/4"?
I've had the Resaw King blade for a little over a year now and it has worked really well for me. I've been able to cut veneer from 12" oak and maple without too much difficulty. I occasionally wish the saw had more power, but it hasn't been a really big issue as long as I don't try to push it through too fast. A new and more powerful band saw is definitely on my wish list, but it's not a high priority.
I wonder how powerful your saw is? A lot of Delta 14" saws had either 1/2 or 3/4hp, IIRC. I've heard of upgrades to 1 and 1 1/2 hp are not overboard. Cheers
I have the PM1500 version of your saw. I went to rip some 3/4 thick x 4-1/2 tall pine boards down to half inch thick today and was disappointed a bit. The blade was drifting off the side of the board immediately. I’ve checked my blade tension, my bearings are all in the proper place, I have a 1” blade that is an alternating type, with teeth at 3tpi. Is that a good blade to use for this application? I looked in the trouble shoot menu of the manual. A few things listed as possible issues and fixes. One is, was the blade sharp, I’m not sure how to tell, except that I know it’s not that used yet and feels sharp to the touch. The other thing was clean the blade. I have no idea on how you clean a band saw blade, manual says nothing about this. Would you know? I have no idea why it wouldn’t go through these pine boards like butter. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thx
Hello, the pulley on the bandsaw wheel (not the motor) works its way off its shaft; the little key that stabilizes the pulley works its way loose, and the pulley comes off. Do I just need a new key? Where would I get one, if you think this is the answer. Thank you.
Thank you very much for that, I will take onboard your set up technique as it's something I'm still learning about on the bandsaw, can the carbide tips be sharpened ? 👍
I know that the blades can be sharpened, but my blade is only a couple of weeks old so I've not needed to do that yet. I likely will go try to get mine sharpened when it's time due to the price of a new blade. One option is to use the blade manufacturer to have it resharpened, which may be a good option because you want to be sure it's done right. For example, Laguna will resharpen a Resaw King blade for $45.
Anything can be sharpened if you have a method of doing it you would need a sharpening tool tougher and more resistant to abrasion than the blade you are trying to sharpen and as these blades are heat treated and the carbide tips are amongst the toughest materials known to man , it's not advisable sharpening the blades, just remember that the carbide tips on these blades are many many times more resistant than any grade timber you will ever cut with these so under correct use would take years and years to wear the teeth and at this point it would be advised just to buy a new blade.
Your video is informative and many thanks ! I have a delta 10" recently acquired- after following the tune up procedures I noticed a slapping noise when making cuts -any idea and advice on correcting this ? Again Thank you !
Sorry to take so long to respond. A few questions to help narrow down the possible causes: 1) is the slapping noise coming from below the table or above? 2) does it happen all the time, or only when you're cutting? 3) when the saw is turned off and you push against the side of the blade, how easy is it to deflect?
I noticed the slapping only when cutting.. It is intermittent which im wondering if it could be in the blade. I replaced the table insert but still has the slap. I have pressed the side of the blade and it moves slightly . I have also tried various tension amounts but the slap continues . The sawis a delta 10" .The blade is a Olsen 1/2" { new}.. Many thanx for your help !
@@davidmcgill1971 It might be the wheels or one of the wheels that is not balanced properly. Here's a video you can watch that shows how to balance the wheels. ua-cam.com/video/1Qt5B39LB7c/v-deo.html It might also be a bearing that needs replacing. These are just a couple of guesses, but probably a good place to start. Let me know how you make out with that to see if I'm on the right track. Here's another video that has a lot of really good tips on how to tune a bandsaw. ua-cam.com/video/9DzbJYIPPNE/v-deo.html
Excellent video! I have the same Delta 14" with the original Delta riser block kit still in the carton, and an upgraded 1 1/2 HP motor, but not yet installed...I was teetering on just selling the entire outfit because of fears of having problems with it during resawing, but after watching your careful setup, I think I'm going to keep it. Can I ask if in your experience with this riser block setup on your own bandsaw, you have any annoying problems with tensioning the blade or mis-alignment between the upper and lower saw body castings? Thanks, and keep up the excellent videos!
The Delta is the only bandsaw that I have had, so I can't really compare it to anything else. I feel like the blade tensioning has worked fine. I usually set the tension to be a notch higher than what the tension indicator suggests and I get pretty good results. I definitely haven't had any misalignment issues between the upper and lower saw body castings. I think you'll be happy with the 1 1/2 motor. Mine is only 1 HP and I sometimes wish I had a bit more power when resawing very wide and dense pieces of wood. Thanks for watching!
Well produced video thanks. I believe the deepest part of the gullet should be as close to the centre of the UPPER wheel as possible, as others have already touched on... BUT... all the blade guides and thrust bearings should be retracted well clear of the blade, and the tension set by something more reliable than the scale, (search for "bandsaw flutter test"), BEFORE the blade is centered, as these all effect the centering process.
Hi there, For the the lower blade guide adjustment, there are two adjustment knobs. One seems to move the bearing and the other seems to move the whole mechanism. Can you explain the differences. Thank you.
It operates similar to the adjustment mechanisms on the top except that it's designed a little differently. For the top adjustment, the knobs are behind the blade, but the one on the bottom has the knobs at the front because it's too hard to get your hands behind the blade when underneath the table. One of the knobs moves the bearing that's behind the blade and the other knob moves the blade guides forward and backward.
I have the exact same band saw. The upper and lower tires slide off the wheels (regardless of whether the blade is on low, medium or high tension. Interestingly the blade stays on the centreline but the tires creep off the wheels. Any ideas, suggestions before replacing the tires? By the way I have an Olson 1/4” blade and the adjustments were made just as you described in your video. Looking forward to your feedback. Regards Pete
It sounds like the tires have become stretched over time, which is causing them to be a little too loose. I can't offer any solution other than replacing the tires. Hopefully that would solve the problem.
By adjusting the fence, to account for blade drift, you have, possibly, rendered your miter slot useless. The fence should always be square to the table/miter slot. When that is correct, use the fence to make a test cut. Then adjust the table, square to the cut, by loosening the trunnion bolts and moving the table. Re-snug one bolt and make another cut. Re-do until correct, Tighten all bolts. If you did it carefully and correct, all will be square for many years. Just don't move your saw, by using the table as handles.
Hi Mike, I need your help. I have an old delta 12” bandsaw. The bottom saw wheel is driven by an external electric motor via belt. I’m restoring the bandsaw and need to know the RPM of the bandsaw wheel. Can’t seem to find it and thought you might be able to help. If I know what is the rpm of the bandsaw wheel, I can determine the width of the electric motor pulley diameter I need to purchase. Hope you can help. Thank you Peter
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I don't think I have the answer to the question you were asking, but I can tell you that the RPM of the motor is 1725 RPM and it has a pulley on the motor with a 1 3/16" diameter. That might not be enough information for you to go on. I can get you the diameter of the pulley attached to the bandsaw wheel and the diameter of the belt if you need it, but I'd need to take the saw apart to get those numbers for you. I'm happy to do it, so just let me know if that would help. BTW, the diameter of the bandsaw wheel is 14".
This was a great video, thanks for the demo. I have the same Delta saw as you. I do not have any difficulty with setting up to change the blade but I do with the belt and pulley. What happens is that after about 30 minutes or less of work, the little metal block or pin that holds the bottom wheel shaft and the pulley where the belt turns in, that set screw becomes loose, then the pin comes out and pulley goes out of alignment and I have to readjust the whole thing. I am not sure if you have the same problem or not but do you have any idea how I could keep the set screw in there so it does not vibrate loose the pin. Any info that you may provide for me I would greatly appreciate it. I have lived with this for over 15 years or more and the screw is starting to get worn down as the Allen key too. Thanks again for the presentation. Waiting your reply. Tim
Hi Tim, thankfully I haven't had any problem with the key coming out of the keyway on the pulley. In fact, I don't remember the last time I had to open the cabinet where the motor is. I suggest that you use some Loctite 242 to help keep the screw from loosening due to vibrations. You can find it on Amazon here: amzn.to/2Fjy4jz You might also want to change the screw if the threads are getting worn. That could be another reason it's coming loose so easily. I hope that works for you! --Mike
If you have to adjust the fence for drift, you don't have the blade running in the center of the tire. There is no such thing as blade drift on a properly set up saw. Try running the gullets of the blade on the center of the tire, no more drift.
You can find them on Amazon here: amzn.to/2YGa042 You just need to be sure to order the correct size. You can also find them at woodworking stores like Woodcraft and Rockler.
Yes, I've read that it's better to center the gullet rather than the blade itself but had never tried it. I gave it a try just now and it worked well. This blade was so wide (3/4") that it almost scrapes the back of the cabinet when the gullet is centered. Almost, but not quite, so I think I will do that from this point forward to minimize any drift.
I just bought a hobby band saw and couldn't get it to cut straight. If the gullet is centre on the wheel do the teeth not damage the rubber? Is it possible that the blade the saw came with is not centre sharpened causing the blade to drift? Thanks
I used a paste wax called Crystal Clear Paste Wax with carnauba amzn.to/2BmmVMA. It's what I use as a finish on furniture and boxes that I make, so it's just what I had on hand. It leaves a nice low friction surface on my table saw, jointer, and band saw, and it also helps the band saw blade to glide through the wood.
Hi , I have a problem with my band saw , everytime I saw with a fence, the saw skewed and clamps .I have everything checked and regulated , the saw tension , the conductors and yet . I have just bought the saw second hand and have no experience with a band saw ,I hope you can help me ,I think you have more experience than me. with best regards Marc
Hi, I bought a Walker Turner band saw, in excellent condition. :) The man I bought my bandsaw says my saw has spaced teeth and that as such it has to be put to the end of the wheel. Yes, He says, the teeth must be out, if you understand me ???
It sounds weird, I think all blades have "spaced teeth", otherwise the blade will get stuck in the wood. I'm not an expert in this area at all, but that's just common sense. Correct me if I'm wrong.
VERY GOOD BROTHER, ONLY ONE THING THAT, IN MY OPINION, USE BEARING WITH RUBBER SEALS AND NOT WITH METALLIC SEALS. IN A RUBBER SEAL BEARING THE RUBBER IS UNDER 'PRESSING CONTACT' WITH THE INNER BEARING RACE, WHICH WOULD IN TURN, NOT ALLOW THE CUTTING DUST TO ENTER THE BEARING. HENCE RUBBER SEAL BEARINGS WOULD LAST LONGER THEN THE METALLIC SEAL BEARINGS. IN METAL SEALS THE DUST IS LIKELY TO ENTER DUE TO TINY GAB BETWEEN THE SEAL AND INNER BEARING RACE, WHICH WILL NOT ONLY DECREASE THE LIFE OF BEARING BUT MAY ALSO CAUSE ROUGH BEARING ROTATION ALONG WITH UNWANTED VIBRATION, GOOD LUCK FOR SUCH A DEEP ZOOMING NICE VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Amazon is always an easy choice. Here are the ones that I used: amzn.to/4eowbDk They also sell them at Rockler and Woodcraft if you have one close to you.
Why are bandsaws such antiquated equipment still? No quick release fittings for adjustments, using spanner’s and various sized Allen keys, what a pain.
This UA-cam article, ua-cam.com/video/4k-r5utmU2Q/v-deo.html, explains that there is no such thing as blade drift. When you get drift you are pinching the blade against the wood and the fence. In his test he takes off the blade tension and resaws a blank log. No drift. Please view the video.
Definitely an older procedure for 14" bandsaw adjustment. According to mfg all bearings and guides should be moved away prior to installation of a new, (especially wider blade). 1. Tensioning, 2. Tracking, 3. Upper and lower rear guide or thrust bearing, 4. Upper and lower cooling blocks. Alien Snodgrass has an excellent video showing the proper why this should be done.
Let me change your life with your band saw. You get blade drift when you put the center of the blade on the middle of the wheel tire where there is a crown. If you set it up with the deepest part of the gullet is in the middle of the wheel tire where it is crowned, then you will not get blade drift at all. Not my idea, I learned this from this video: ua-cam.com/video/wGbZqWac0jU/v-deo.html from Carter Products demonstration at a woodworking show. I typically with the same saw you have in your video. I resaw 12 inch oak from wood harvested on our property and have yet to have any blade drift, and like Alex I can cut veneer from those blanks as well. Simple setup and you never have to change your blade guides unless you change the size of your blade. Give it a try.
Why do Americans have to add music to their videos? This backing track was particularly irritating and certainly did not enhance the video. On the contrary, it was distracting and and so annoying that I had to stop watching.
Sorry Clive. Americans do not have to add music. There is no requirement by YT or the Federal, State or local jurisdictions. Some Americans choose to add music. I must say that I watch YT videos from around the world and I have noticed other Nationalities add music. I think you can turn on subtitles. You missed some good information. I have a problem with loud noises, dysphonia, so I turn the volume down.
Struggled for an hour to install a blade in my Delta 28-203. I bought it used with no manual. I just about used up my daily ration of patience so I fired up the UA-cam and found this video. Just shy of 12 minutes later I was able to get the blade in and start making sawdust. Thanks a ton!!!
I just bought a excellent used 14” Delta Bandsaw. Thank you for taking the time to produce this video. Much appreciated.
Best, easy to comprehend, no needed to pause go back and think of confusing things explanation on setting up a bandsaw.
Thank you.
Of the 6 or 10 videos on tuning a bandsaw I've watched recently, this was the best. Wish I'd seen this one first!
Great video. Mine is really quite noisy when it's running, I'll need to check the tension and the guides and see if they're maladjusted
*Perfect band saw for the hobby enthusiast **MyBest.Tools** Easy to set up and square. Had it running in 10 to 15 minutes. Quality of cuts will depend on the quality of the blades.*
I've found using two sets of feeler gauges to set the blade guides much easier,insert a 0.2mm feeler blade each side push the guides in and pinch them up.
GREAT camera work, well documented. Fantastic video.
This little band saw has turned out to be the best tool purchase I've ever made ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx5ZrqmYO2uJq_nuU8TopyWxVzn8vqmPUL Once doing the set-up as per the included suggestions, this table top tool has been my go-to saw ever since (8 months as of this review). There are few things I wouldn't attempt with this saw. It takes up much less space than my table saw yet delivers twice as much punch. I've used it to create slices of wood no thicker than an 1/16th of inch by using the POWERTEC BS900RF Rip Fence. For small shop projects this tool can't be beat.
Great video. Simple adjustments make a huge difference. A lot of parts to a bandsaw and this video shows the importance to get all these parts to working together. and not against you.
Thank you for a v clear and concise video about 'fine tuning'. Great explanatory close up shots made the whole thing clear to me, a starter with using a bandsaw. So many videos are unclear, too fast talking and vague photography. Thank you again.
Thank you for this excellent bandsaw tutorial, very well explained.
This is so helpful. Thank you for the amazing content! Heading out to tune up my bandsaw now!
Just got a 1500lbs 25" bandsaw I need to set up and fine tune, this video helped me a lot.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Wow! that's a big one. I just bought a new 18" bandsaw but it's "only" 700 lbs. It took more than just me to get it into the workshop.
@@Woodumakeit Maybe a little overkill, but it was cheap. Got it for $780
An old cast iron saw with 2 steps start in perfect condition.
Have not tried it yet, the last parts will arrive Wednesday.
Can hardly wait.
My neighbor had a telehandler I could borrow to get it into the workshop.
Excellent, thanks. I learned quite a lot and tomorrow, I'm gonna re-tune my saw
- Mike, thanx a million ! ! ! Your videos are always helpful & professionally done.
Nice job. Your method is good because it has worked for you and gives you the result you are looking for.
THANK YOU! Couldn't have done it without you
Good information. I want to replace the bottom bearing (5:47 on the video) but there is no room to access it after removing the table. Is this bearing part of another part of the saw? Would appreciate it if you will tell me how to replace same. Thank you.
Good explanation. Easy to follow. Thankyou!
I am a use and abouse bandsaw user. Really, never have a need until a recent project calls for more precision. What I got out of video, is that all guides the should be adjusted every time a blade is changed.
I just subscribed and i saw only two videos but i liked the simple way you explain all the details, congratulations. I have a hobby band saw and it has basically no such features like yours to set up the blade, only a couple of bearings, unfortunately. I always searching for some devices in the web that may fit to my band saw. I am planning to go to US next year and maybe i can find some! Thanks for the video, I´ll try to watch the others too!!
Thanks for watching and for subscribing! I'm glad you found the video helpful. Good luck finding the parts you need.
Good information! Thank you for sharing. What would be the reason that back upper wheel assembly (thicker part that house the ball bearing) rubbed against the hinge?
My pulley on my blade wheel (not the motor pulley) works itself loose and comes off. I have re-positioned it and tightened the set screw several times, but in a few minutes of using it, it works loose again. Someone suggested I coat the set screw and keyway with JB Weld. What would you do about this problem? Thank you.
Good video on setting up a band saw. I'd be interested how the 3/4 resaw king blade is working out. A lot of information on 14" bandaws say the max blade width you should use is 1/2 ". Is your saw still doing well with the 3/4"?
I've had the Resaw King blade for a little over a year now and it has worked really well for me. I've been able to cut veneer from 12" oak and maple without too much difficulty. I occasionally wish the saw had more power, but it hasn't been a really big issue as long as I don't try to push it through too fast. A new and more powerful band saw is definitely on my wish list, but it's not a high priority.
I wonder how powerful your saw is? A lot of Delta 14" saws had either 1/2 or 3/4hp, IIRC. I've heard of upgrades to 1 and 1 1/2 hp are not overboard. Cheers
I have the PM1500 version of your saw. I went to rip some 3/4 thick x 4-1/2 tall pine boards down to half inch thick today and was disappointed a bit. The blade was drifting off the side of the board immediately. I’ve checked my blade tension, my bearings are all in the proper place, I have a 1” blade that is an alternating type, with teeth at 3tpi. Is that a good blade to use for this application? I looked in the trouble shoot menu of the manual. A few things listed as possible issues and fixes. One is, was the blade sharp, I’m not sure how to tell, except that I know it’s not that used yet and feels sharp to the touch. The other thing was clean the blade. I have no idea on how you clean a band saw blade, manual says nothing about this. Would you know? I have no idea why it wouldn’t go through these pine boards like butter. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thx
Hello, the pulley on the bandsaw wheel (not the motor) works its way off its shaft; the little key that stabilizes the pulley works its way loose, and the pulley comes off. Do I just need a new key? Where would I get one, if you think this is the answer. Thank you.
Thank you very much for that, I will take onboard your set up technique as it's something I'm still learning about on the bandsaw, can the carbide tips be sharpened ? 👍
I know that the blades can be sharpened, but my blade is only a couple of weeks old so I've not needed to do that yet. I likely will go try to get mine sharpened when it's time due to the price of a new blade. One option is to use the blade manufacturer to have it resharpened, which may be a good option because you want to be sure it's done right. For example, Laguna will resharpen a Resaw King blade for $45.
Anything can be sharpened if you have a method of doing it you would need a sharpening tool tougher and more resistant to abrasion than the blade you are trying to sharpen and as these blades are heat treated and the carbide tips are amongst the toughest materials known to man , it's not advisable sharpening the blades, just remember that the carbide tips on these blades are many many times more resistant than any grade timber you will ever cut with these so under correct use would take years and years to wear the teeth and at this point it would be advised just to buy a new blade.
Your video is informative and many thanks ! I have a delta 10" recently acquired- after following the tune up procedures I noticed a slapping noise when making cuts -any idea and advice on correcting this ? Again Thank you !
Sorry to take so long to respond. A few questions to help narrow down the possible causes: 1) is the slapping noise coming from below the table or above? 2) does it happen all the time, or only when you're cutting? 3) when the saw is turned off and you push against the side of the blade, how easy is it to deflect?
I noticed the slapping only when cutting.. It is intermittent which im wondering if it could be in the blade. I replaced the table insert but still has the slap. I have pressed the side of the blade and it moves slightly . I have also tried various tension amounts but the slap continues . The sawis a delta 10" .The blade is a Olsen 1/2" { new}.. Many thanx for your help !
@@davidmcgill1971 It might be the wheels or one of the wheels that is not balanced properly. Here's a video you can watch that shows how to balance the wheels. ua-cam.com/video/1Qt5B39LB7c/v-deo.html It might also be a bearing that needs replacing. These are just a couple of guesses, but probably a good place to start. Let me know how you make out with that to see if I'm on the right track. Here's another video that has a lot of really good tips on how to tune a bandsaw. ua-cam.com/video/9DzbJYIPPNE/v-deo.html
I watched a lot of Tune a band-saw videos, this one by far is the best. showing exactly where the guides and bearing goes.
Thanks!
Excellent video! I have the same Delta 14" with the original Delta riser block kit still in the carton, and an upgraded 1 1/2 HP motor, but not yet installed...I was teetering on just selling the entire outfit because of fears of having problems with it during resawing, but after watching your careful setup, I think I'm going to keep it. Can I ask if in your experience with this riser block setup on your own bandsaw, you have any annoying problems with tensioning the blade or mis-alignment between the upper and lower saw body castings? Thanks, and keep up the excellent videos!
The Delta is the only bandsaw that I have had, so I can't really compare it to anything else. I feel like the blade tensioning has worked fine. I usually set the tension to be a notch higher than what the tension indicator suggests and I get pretty good results. I definitely haven't had any misalignment issues between the upper and lower saw body castings. I think you'll be happy with the 1 1/2 motor. Mine is only 1 HP and I sometimes wish I had a bit more power when resawing very wide and dense pieces of wood. Thanks for watching!
Well produced video thanks. I believe the deepest part of the gullet should be as close to the centre of the UPPER wheel as possible, as others have already touched on... BUT... all the blade guides and thrust bearings should be retracted well clear of the blade, and the tension set by something more reliable than the scale, (search for "bandsaw flutter test"), BEFORE the blade is centered, as these all effect the centering process.
Hi there,
For the the lower blade guide adjustment, there are two adjustment knobs. One seems to move the bearing and the other seems to move the whole mechanism. Can you explain the differences.
Thank you.
It operates similar to the adjustment mechanisms on the top except that it's designed a little differently. For the top adjustment, the knobs are behind the blade, but the one on the bottom has the knobs at the front because it's too hard to get your hands behind the blade when underneath the table. One of the knobs moves the bearing that's behind the blade and the other knob moves the blade guides forward and backward.
Thank you, I ended up figuring it out. Great information.
For waxing, I usually cut a candle in half a few times. Works fine.
I have the exact same band saw. The upper and lower tires slide off the wheels (regardless of whether the blade is on low, medium or high tension. Interestingly the blade stays on the centreline but the tires creep off the wheels. Any ideas, suggestions before replacing the tires? By the way I have an Olson 1/4” blade and the adjustments were made just as you described in your video. Looking forward to your feedback. Regards Pete
It sounds like the tires have become stretched over time, which is causing them to be a little too loose. I can't offer any solution other than replacing the tires. Hopefully that would solve the problem.
@@Woodumakeit Add some silicone adhesive to the wheel, then put the tire back on. Nothing to lose, might help.
By adjusting the fence, to account for blade drift, you have, possibly, rendered your miter slot useless.
The fence should always be square to the table/miter slot.
When that is correct, use the fence to make a test cut. Then adjust the table, square to the cut, by loosening the
trunnion bolts and moving the table. Re-snug one bolt and make another cut. Re-do until correct, Tighten all bolts.
If you did it carefully and correct, all will be square for many years. Just don't move your saw, by using the table as handles.
This is perfect. Thank you.
Seria buenisimo que tuvieras un vide de estos ajustes en español
Thank you,my good friend. Great video!
Great video and very useful. Thank you
Would Johnson’s paste wax be ok for waxing the blade?
I think that would work fine.
@@Woodumakeit Thank you😀
that tightening gauge only works if the blade is perfectly the length it needs to be.
This guy looks like an older version of Patrick Dempsey! Great video thanks for sharing.
I resent the part about being older. Haha, ok.....I'm two years older than he is. Thanks for watching!
Hi Mike, I need your help. I have an old delta 12” bandsaw. The bottom saw wheel is driven by an external electric motor via belt. I’m restoring the bandsaw and need to know the RPM of the bandsaw wheel. Can’t seem to find it and thought you might be able to help. If I know what is the rpm of the bandsaw wheel, I can determine the width of the electric motor pulley diameter I need to purchase. Hope you can help. Thank you Peter
Hi Peter, I don't have an answer for you right now, but I'll see what I can find and will let you know. It might take me a couple of days...
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I don't think I have the answer to the question you were asking, but I can tell you that the RPM of the motor is 1725 RPM and it has a pulley on the motor with a 1 3/16" diameter. That might not be enough information for you to go on. I can get you the diameter of the pulley attached to the bandsaw wheel and the diameter of the belt if you need it, but I'd need to take the saw apart to get those numbers for you. I'm happy to do it, so just let me know if that would help. BTW, the diameter of the bandsaw wheel is 14".
This was a great video, thanks for the demo. I have the same Delta saw as you. I do not have any difficulty with setting up to change the blade but I do with the belt and pulley. What happens is that after about 30 minutes or less of work, the little metal block or pin that holds the bottom wheel shaft and the pulley where the belt turns in, that set screw becomes loose, then the pin comes out and pulley goes out of alignment and I have to readjust the whole thing. I am not sure if you have the same problem or not but do you have any idea how I could keep the set screw in there so it does not vibrate loose the pin. Any info that you may provide for me I would greatly appreciate it. I have lived with this for over 15 years or more and the screw is starting to get worn down as the Allen key too. Thanks again for the presentation. Waiting your reply. Tim
Hi Tim, thankfully I haven't had any problem with the key coming out of the keyway on the pulley. In fact, I don't remember the last time I had to open the cabinet where the motor is. I suggest that you use some Loctite 242 to help keep the screw from loosening due to vibrations. You can find it on Amazon here: amzn.to/2Fjy4jz You might also want to change the screw if the threads are getting worn. That could be another reason it's coming loose so easily. I hope that works for you! --Mike
If you have to adjust the fence for drift, you don't have the blade running in the center of the tire. There is no such thing as blade drift on a properly set up saw. Try running the gullets of the blade on the center of the tire, no more drift.
What is this substance that touches the saw
I got the same saw. Old Delta / Rockwell saws kick ass!
Yep!! Hey, I've passed through Rockwood several times. I used to do a bit of work in Fergus 20+ years ago. That brings back good memories.
سلام دوست و استاد نازنین
راهنمایی و دستورالعمل هایت بسیار بسیار واضح مفید کامل و فنی بود .
سپاسگزارم
با احترام فرزین
ممتاز ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
It helps a lot having a Delta saw.
How can I order one of those carbide blades
You can find them on Amazon here: amzn.to/2YGa042 You just need to be sure to order the correct size. You can also find them at woodworking stores like Woodcraft and Rockler.
Shouldn’t the gullet be centred on the tire. I think this would eliminate the drift you had
Yes, I've read that it's better to center the gullet rather than the blade itself but had never tried it. I gave it a try just now and it worked well. This blade was so wide (3/4") that it almost scrapes the back of the cabinet when the gullet is centered. Almost, but not quite, so I think I will do that from this point forward to minimize any drift.
Bill you are 100% correct it should be gullet centred
I just bought a hobby band saw and couldn't get it to cut straight. If the gullet is centre on the wheel do the teeth not damage the rubber? Is it possible that the blade the saw came with is not centre sharpened causing the blade to drift? Thanks
Watch Alex Snodgrass set up his bandsaw. Since setting my saw the way he does I have never had a drift problem. Perfect cuts every time
@@hotrodhog2170 Yes, he is truly a master at tuning a bandsaw.
Not sure about the waxing part, as it means that it’ll run slippery over the wheels.
what wax do you use ?
I used a paste wax called Crystal Clear Paste Wax with carnauba amzn.to/2BmmVMA. It's what I use as a finish on furniture and boxes that I make, so it's just what I had on hand. It leaves a nice low friction surface on my table saw, jointer, and band saw, and it also helps the band saw blade to glide through the wood.
Hi , I have a problem with my band saw , everytime I saw with a fence, the saw skewed and clamps .I have everything checked and regulated , the saw tension , the conductors and yet . I have just bought the saw second hand and have no experience with a band saw ,I hope you can help me ,I think you have more experience than me.
with best regards Marc
Hi, I bought a Walker Turner band saw, in excellent condition. :)
The man I bought my bandsaw says my saw has spaced teeth and that as such it has to be put to the end of the wheel. Yes, He says, the teeth must be out, if you understand me ???
It sounds weird, I think all blades have "spaced teeth", otherwise the blade will get stuck in the wood.
I'm not an expert in this area at all, but that's just common sense.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
VERY GOOD BROTHER, ONLY ONE THING THAT, IN MY OPINION, USE BEARING WITH RUBBER SEALS AND NOT WITH METALLIC SEALS. IN A RUBBER SEAL BEARING THE RUBBER IS UNDER 'PRESSING CONTACT' WITH THE INNER BEARING RACE, WHICH WOULD IN TURN, NOT ALLOW THE CUTTING DUST TO ENTER THE BEARING. HENCE RUBBER SEAL BEARINGS WOULD LAST LONGER THEN THE METALLIC SEAL BEARINGS. IN METAL SEALS THE DUST IS LIKELY TO ENTER DUE TO TINY GAB BETWEEN THE SEAL AND INNER BEARING RACE, WHICH WILL NOT ONLY DECREASE THE LIFE OF BEARING BUT MAY ALSO CAUSE ROUGH BEARING ROTATION ALONG WITH UNWANTED VIBRATION,
GOOD LUCK FOR SUCH A DEEP ZOOMING NICE VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Suggestions on where to buy new blade guides?
Amazon is always an easy choice. Here are the ones that I used: amzn.to/4eowbDk They also sell them at Rockler and Woodcraft if you have one close to you.
Why are bandsaws such antiquated equipment still? No quick release fittings for adjustments, using spanner’s and various sized Allen keys, what a pain.
You should not adjust the fence. You need to adjust the table.
Seems like adjusting the fence to correct blade drift would mean you're always cutting a wedge
You need to flip that worn blade guide around or flatten it with a file/sander.
no need to replace those guides yet just flatten them with a file or fine sand paper for now.
Check out Alex Snodgrass's videos to learn how to properly tune your bandsaw.
This UA-cam article, ua-cam.com/video/4k-r5utmU2Q/v-deo.html, explains that there is no such thing as blade drift. When you get drift you are pinching the blade against the wood and the fence. In his test he takes off the blade tension and resaws a blank log. No drift. Please view the video.
Definitely an older procedure for 14" bandsaw adjustment. According to mfg all bearings and guides should be moved away prior to installation of a new, (especially wider blade).
1. Tensioning, 2. Tracking, 3. Upper and lower rear guide or thrust bearing, 4. Upper and lower cooling blocks.
Alien Snodgrass has an excellent video showing the proper why this should be done.
Let me change your life with your band saw. You get blade drift when you put the center of the blade on the middle of the wheel tire where there is a crown. If you set it up with the deepest part of the gullet is in the middle of the wheel tire where it is crowned, then you will not get blade drift at all. Not my idea, I learned this from this video: ua-cam.com/video/wGbZqWac0jU/v-deo.html from Carter Products demonstration at a woodworking show. I typically with the same saw you have in your video. I resaw 12 inch oak from wood harvested on our property and have yet to have any blade drift, and like Alex I can cut veneer from those blanks as well. Simple setup and you never have to change your blade guides unless you change the size of your blade. Give it a try.
Cute that you still measure in inches.
Great video but why play annoying music in the background?
B
I have done very similar with Woodglut designs.
Would have watched it fully, but too many idiot adverts. Abandoned it….
throw itinthe dumpl
Why do Americans have to add music to their videos? This backing track was particularly irritating and certainly did not enhance the video. On the contrary, it was distracting and and so annoying that I had to stop watching.
Sorry Clive. Americans do not have to add music. There is no requirement by YT or the Federal, State or local jurisdictions. Some Americans choose to add music. I must say that I watch YT videos from around the world and I have noticed other Nationalities add music. I think you can turn on subtitles. You missed some good information. I have a problem with loud noises, dysphonia, so I turn the volume down.