Thank you, brother! It's a very straight-forward and easy to understand. I'm a complete beginner when it comes to car engines. This year I noticed that my Clio's fuel consumption was increased as compared to the previous year. Also, the RPM at idling was over 1000, although it used to be 600-700 RPM at idling. My gas pedal also became very hard (my English is not that good, sorry). I had to press the gas pedal HARD to move the car, otherwise, it would simply "shut down" when I start releasing the clutch pedal. Last month I sent my Clio to a detailed overhaul, and told them about the problem. They changed brake pads and stuff, fuel pump and several other parts, but the problem wasn't solved. When I told them about it few days later, they simply told me "It's because we changed the fuel pump." I came home disappointed. I called my dad, who's a professional truck driver. He said, "It's the throttle valve, it has to be cleaned and they simply didn't bother to do it!" So, I googled about cleaning the throttle valve, and came across your video. I followed your instructions to the letter, including the brand of the throttle cleaner. And I did it, successfully! The problem is now solved, RPM is back to 600-700, gas pedal is now soft as it should be, and the fuel consumption is back to normal as well. Not only that my car had to re-learn the values, but also I had to re-learn to press the gas pedal GENTLY, lol :) And let me tell you: my throttle body was SO DIRTY, it took me a few hours to clean it. The one in your video is not even close to what mine used to look like before I cleaned it. THANK YOU SO MUCH for this video! Officially, you're my hero of the year! Keep up the good work!
722 is better in so many ways. Whole air intake redesign and way better ECU location. A really good effort by Renault to solve previous issues. A solid first car for new drivers in my opinion.
Great and concise video! Changed my air filter the other day and noticed that the throttle body was quite dirty. I want to source a replacement gasket for it before removing it though as I don't know how old the existing one is. I've been having no luck in finding the gasket online, hoping you might have a suggestion. 1.2 D4F. Thanks!
I have disturbed the one on the car in this video countless times. They are nice and supple and don't seem to deform. I couldn't find a new one myself. I think you will be fine using the old one.
hi, nice video. I wanted to ask you, since I have a petrol third series Clio, 1.2. I wanted to ask you if the procedure for disassembling and reassembling the throttle body is identical. This question was also directed at the video you made of the entire body of the reel. Thanks, bye.
Hey loved the video I got a problem on mine with high idle and not stable idle you thinks it’s a throttle problem or something else . I got fresh oil , air filter as well as spark plugs
Thankyou. Unfortunately it could be so many things. Anything from a vacuum leak to a bad sensor. The best thing to do would be to look at live OBD data and get a direction. However the throttle body is a candidate and cleaning it might be a good starting point.
Hello, I have the same car and I noticed that when I stop (for example at a red light) the rpms go under the minimum (500 rpms), sometimes very near to the 0 and then slowly come back to 500rpms. Do you think a dirty throttle body could be the only problem? Because I've star noticing that it's also difficult for the car to go at temperature (it stops at just 2 notches instead of 4) even after a lot of km. Thank you very much for this very helpful video, I will for sure try and clean the throttle body of my Renault Clio
Hello, regarding the temperature gauge issue, usually they don't rise above two blocks in the winter time four in the summer time. If it has been two blocks on hot days however then its likely the sensor is faulty. I wouldn't suspect this to cause such a large idle issue though. Does the car run badly at any other engine speed or condition? What is the servicing history like?
@@SocketsAndSideburns Thank you very much for your kind and fast reply, I really appreciate it. It has been on two blocks even during hot days and long mileages... by the sensor you mean the lambda/oxygen one? The clio runs smoothly at every speed and condition, just when I stop the engine goes below the minimum rps. Servicing has been really poor but I have just now completed an extensive and complete service and everything seems fine. Thank you again for your interest. Greetings from Italy.
I meant the coolant temperature sensor. Does the car try to stall or misfire as the rpms drop or does it still run smoothly. If its smooth you may want to check the TDC sensor.
Hi, seems inside axes for gears to to sized and need lubricant or grease and the electronic parts seems to worn out too. Is this learning procedure xorks and a brand new one, please? Thanks.
hi, great video, i drive a Renault megane 1.6 79kw 2001, all the rings oring the whole set have been changed, all the sensors have been checked and everything is great, everything is clean but I have a problem with the first start after it cools down no problem starts, secondly why the arrow does not rest goes from 730 to 780 is not constant does not rest, thanks for each answer.
Are you saying it is difficult to start when the engine is hot? The idle speed you will need to figure out if the jumping is a true reading or if the sensor is at fault.
I cleaned the throttle body out last night as the car is misfiring usually worse once it’s warmed up. Also lacking in power sluggish when accelerating, I’ve ordered some new spark plugs, coil pack and ht leads
Definitely would recommend investing in a code reader that can see live data if you have the money so you can get a look at what the lambda sensor is doing. I have a video for checking coil packs.
I've read moving the butterfly valve manually can damage the throttle body in terms of the electronics. Thoughts? I have the same car and would like to take my throttle body out to have it cleaned
Firstly as I say in the video be sure to disconnect the battery and fully remove the throttle body. Manipulating the throttle plate when the throttle body is still connected is dangerous and the car may bring up fault codes. With the throttle body disconnected the plate closes by a spring built into the throttle body. So when you manually open it it will close itself to a default position when you let go. Just don't force it past its normal range of movement. I have done this procedure this way several times and never had any issues.
Thanks. I've taken it off. There seems to be a hint of oil around gasket. I proceeded to remove the air filter and there was oil on the end of the filter that sits by the throttle body. Any idea where this oil came from?
Most likely from the PCV. I had some oil in my airbox also when I changed the air filter in the service video I did. As long as its not much (easily wipeable with a rag and not a puddle of it) then just monitor it. The PCV valve on these engines is integral with the rocker cover so not exactly cheap to change although you could clean the accessible hoses. I will be making a video in the future removing the rocker cover and taking a look at the PCV system on these engines.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Please i want to ask why the valve still littly open after cleaning throttle body, IS there any solution or tips to close it Thanks 💐💐💐
The throttle valve will always be open a little. This is a default position set by a stop that shouldn't need adjusting. If you watch this video I made you can see the stop I'm talking about and how much the throttle should be open. ua-cam.com/video/hHXms2sMpxM/v-deo.html
@@SocketsAndSideburns I followed all the instructions in cleaning my clio throttle body and make all tips and tasks in your video, résulte => the ressort sign disappear from the board, the car stability and running become more efficient, but The problem now still in the morning, my clio cannot start, the engine want to start but cannot, i solve this problem when i spray cleaning liquid in the valve then i start, my car start. Please can you diagnose if my throttle body can be repaired or it failed, and i should replace it by a new one (because of the starting failed in the morning) . Thanks Sir 💐
Try spraying easy start into the air intake when cranking in the morning. If the car fires up then its fuel that's missing. I suspect the cleaner is acting as a fuel substitute and allowing the car to start as its likely flammable.
hello mate love your vids. I have a 2009 mk3 1.2 Clio and it has a major misfire on random cylinders and at least once a day it will go into limp mode until car is restarted the exhaust is loose/shakey but not sure if related, it idle around 500 (very jumpy) and mpg has gone to 26 replaced spark plugs and coil pack and it feels a lil more punchy but still going into limp, does this sound like throttle body? ps it also has electronic fault every so often where the revs get completely stuck at around 2-3000 until turned off and when stationary and I press my foot 1-2cm deep on the pedal and keep it there it stalls?any replies much appreciated!thanks car is 115k
Definitely get a look for vacuum leaks first. After that take a look at live data. You can check the throttle pedal position and the throttle plate position to rule them out.
@@SocketsAndSideburns thanks for the reply mate really appreciate it, cleaned the tb and still the same so defo going to have a look for this next just have one more question, after I cleaned the throttle body and replaced I noticed the throttle body only opens when the pedal is fully depressed and it opens fully no halfway or small increments of open/closing just straight opens up and then shuts as soon as I take pedal off the floor, would you suggest throttle position sensor? Much thanks again
You really need to look at live data on a scanner to see whether its the pedal sensor or the throttle body itself. Best to diagnose properly as neither part is cheap.
Hello, great explanatory video. My mom's clio 3 lately shuts off in the first morning start to make him hold the idle I need to give a little gas for a couple seconds, also I noticed that the idle with the engine warm is quite low, around 600-700 i'd say. I will definitely clean the throttle body and maf sensor, what other things besides these ones would you recommend to check. Also another quick questions is it possible to change the fuel filter on these cars? I looked under it and I didn't find it.
Hello and thankyou. Petrol models of the Clio 3 do not have a serviceable fuel filter. On early Clio 2 models (pre June 2001) there was a fuel filter fitted to the front of the fuel tank. On later 1.2 16v Clios like the one in the video the filter is in the tank as part of the fuel feed unit and is not a service item. Same as the Clio 3s. Idle of 600 to 700 is normal for the 1.2 engine. The Clio in this video idles at 650 - 700rpm As for the starting... Does it crank at a good speed but then struggle to stay started unless you hold the gas for a few seconds? Or is it cranking slow? Are there any other symptoms? Hesitation on acceleration? Misfires? Fault codes? Servicing up to date?
@@SocketsAndSideburns Hey thank you for your explanatory reply. It cranks normal but after the engine starting the rpms start droping like in a bouncing movement till it shuts the engine off. I already cleaned the throttle body (wich was quite dirty) and the maf sensor (wich had a little bit of oil, probably from the breather) but the problem was not fixed, since it only happens in the first morning start i think other option could be the coolant sensor, what do you think my friend? I also recently replaced spark plugs and spark plugs wires, air filter, oil filter and oil.
Oh and other thing, when i replaced the spark plugs i used a small camera and noticed that the pistons have a lot of carbon wich could indicate a bad air/fuel mixture right? The engine is at 60 000 kilometers only and the pistons already look worse than my 94 clio rti
Hmmmm well you've replaced a significant chunk of the ignition system there and given it a good service. I understand the RPMs are shaking but is the engine also shaking? This would mean a significant misfire, a bad coil pack can cause a two cylinder miss as its wasted spark on these engines but the only time I've seen it bad enough to cause a stall was a bad lambda sensor causing awful missing. First thing I recommend is trying to start it this way. Key to ignition for five seconds but don't start, key off, then immediately try to start. This will give you an extra fuel prime. Does it start first time? Next thing to try and help rule out the lambda if you don't have a code reader is just let it idle for a few mins so it goes into closed loop fuelling. It should cut out of miss badly.
Omg this is my car too! I need to fully step on gas so it starts, it cranks but won't start unless the throttle is wide open.. It runs fine in gear though and accelerates with no issues, what's wrong with it 🙄
I have a Renault Clio 1.2 16v from 2001, i've noticed that the throttle isnt responding well, it's like it has a delay... I press the throttle and only after a small period of time the revs go up, its so strange to drive like this and i cant manage to find what's the issue... could it be that the throttle body is dirty? Amazing video btw, keep it up !
It could be the throttle body being dirty yes. Unfortunately it is a little harder to get to on the D4F 712 that will be mounted in your car. Before you clean it I recommend you consider the service history, specifically your sparks and air filter. If either are overdue get a look at them and change them if necessary. also check for a vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or any of the vacuum hoses running off it.
Same problem for me, renault clio 3 1.2 16v 55kw 2010, throttle delay, I press the gas pedal and only after a certain time the engine revs increase. Also the pedal itself does not give linear gas, for example I press the pedal very little, nothing happens, I press a little more, then I'm already at 1500 rpm. The car currently has about 115 thousand km. I removed the throttle body and cleaned it, with that I got a little quieter engine operation and the number of revolutions of the engine came back to normal because it was a little too low before the cleaning itself. Do you think replacing the throttle body would fix the lag problem, or is it possible that the electronic throttle itself is causing the problem, which I've heard exists on the mk2 clio but not the mk3. sorry for the bad text, i used google translate.
Thank you so much for you excelent video. I have to question: 1 How often is it necessary to clean the throttle body? 2 My renaul Clio 2003 is an antique. The problem is that it does not accelerate and I have to wait 10 minutes .And acceleration started successfully. I might do it two to three times during the tour. Do you have any opinion about this defect?
Welcome to the channel. There is no set interval for the cleaning, I would just say check it if you are having running issues and if it's dirty clean it. Any other symptoms other than lack of acceleration? Are you saying that it does not accelerate at all until warm or just doesn't accelerate normally? And even when warmed for ten minuets the problem will still happen sometimes? What is your temperature gauge doing while this is going on?
@@SocketsAndSideburns Thank you. I understand now. well... It occurs when the temperature gauge has not risen, not even to the temperature scale indicated.. In other words, off the scale. The working regime is between 67 degrees Celsius = 152.6 F, to 179.6F. But I have good news. I have cleaned with cleaner for throttle body and then I have released it again. The code disappeared and 17 miles per gls. Not bad. I say. I really apprecite your help. God bless you.
Drive cycles simply means driving the car. The engine needs to go through various conditions to fully relearn its values. This will usually be accomplished just by normal driving.
@@SocketsAndSideburns So if got this procedure correctly, after reassembling I turn the ignition without starting the engine, leave it 30 seconds turned on, and then turn it off for 30 seconds. After that what do I do, start the car, and drive normally? Thanks.
Does this air box fit the d4f engine of 2000? Because your air box is a better design which gives more torque in the low rev ranges so it improves the drivability of the car But i could do with another setup aswell Like a k&n inlay filter
Welcome to the channel. Yes this procedure should be the same. In the video I go through the differences between removing it on the Mk2 and 3 Clios. As for whether it will be the cause of low idle I cannot say. However if the throttle body had never been cleaned or has gone more than 25,000 miles since it was last cleaned then its a good place to start. Also consider your Clios service history. If its overdue a service especially air filter and sparks in the case of idle fluctuations then give it a service as a starting point. I have a video up for servicing these engines that you can watch. Erratic idle can be caused by a great many things. Some things will obviously be more likely than others knowing vehicle's history. However if you have no codes to point you in a direction then clean the throttle body and here are some other things to check: -Vacuum leak, any air getting into the intake stream that the engine is not in control of, check for split vac pipes or any failing gaskets. -Air filter being extremely dirty and overdue (servicing like I said) Spark plugs being worn (servicing again) Check back and let us know how you get on.
@@SocketsAndSideburns First of all, thank you very much. I just changed the air filter and spark plugs. I think it's caused by the throttle. I will consider your suggestions. I will share the developments here. Greetings from Turkey.
I understand the 30 second reset but can I ask what are the drive cycles you are on about at the end of the video. My dauter has a twingo and the set up of the clip engine looks the same.
Drive cycles just means a road test really so the car can relearn all the ECU adaptives. These get cleared with any battery disconnect. Just driving the car will do it.
When resetting the throttle position during the 30secs with ignition 'on'. Do you have to press the accelerator fully down so it knows the max, or does it learn it without pressing it?
The fault you have actually refers to the accelerator pedal position sensor. This will display similar symptoms to a bad throttle body. First visually check the the accelerator pedal unit, make sure it isn't damaged and no floor mats or anything are pushing on it or its wiring. Next you can disconnect it and give the plug a clean with contact cleaner. If that fails then you will be into verifying the fault by testing the pedal unit and replacing it if it's bad and if not checking the wiring. The pedal unit is a common failure.
Hello Again, thanks for the vid. I've taken my throttle body off as there seemed to be oil leaking from it, put it back on and used it for around a week, then had a look to see if this happened again, and there seems to be a bit in there. Do you know what this means, is it normal to have oil in your throttle body?
If you have noticed it leaking then I assume we are talking a lot of oil here? It can only be coming in through the PCV system. When was the air filter last changed? Check it anyway along with it housing, follow downstream along the air intake from there checking its clear up to the throttle body, you may find a pooled area of oil. Then check the PCV hoses. On the D7F one is attached to the underside of the pipe feeding the throttle body the other comes from under this pipe and over it to downstream of the throttle body. The one upstream of the throttle is more likely to be the issue. Also check engine oil level, overfilled sumps can cause this.
Hey, if your engine is the D4F 722 like the one in this video then it will be a metal spin on canister as in the video. Watch my video on identifying the Clio 1.2 16v engines if you are unsure which you have. ua-cam.com/video/CnuLWbRXr-I/v-deo.html Also if you open the bonnet and look down from the right angle over the back left of the engine you should be able to see the oil filter and identify which you have.
Also I didn't realise this was posted to the throttle body video. I have a video on servicing these if you are planning on changing your oil that's all in there ua-cam.com/video/FVd4OLSQCw8/v-deo.html Good luck.
Hey! Appreciate the video, i own a 2001 Mk2 1.2 16v, has fluctuation on idle, biggest issue is that sometimes, when starting, the RPMs get between 1100/1500 and when i press the accelerator, it gives a very "touchy" INSTANT response going immediately to the 2600/3000 zone by barely touching the accelerator pedal, if I don't remove my foot from the accelerator, it stops receiving acceleration, no matter how hard i press, it will only accelerate again, if i remove my foot from the accelerator and step on it again, doing this pretty much in a cycle, generally stops when it reaches an operational temperature, and then it's like a new car, any clues as if it might be throttle body related? Anything else possibly? Thanks in advance.
This is the kind of problem really requires a code reader with live data. You can then watch the data an determine what may be at fault. It may well be the throttle body but it could also be the accelerator pedal.
@@SocketsAndSideburns hey again! Haven't fixed the problem due to a busy life and the problem (obviously) persists, in case it's the accelerator pedal, apart from reading data, is there anything you could recommend? Thank you for your help!
@@SocketsAndSideburns Hello, thank you for your answers from before, checked the problem out and it turned out to be the pedal potentiometer, it hasn't done the weird behaviour again and it idles like it should!
Hi . In 2019 I bought my Logan MCV 1.2 16v from 2016 which had an acceleration problem. That is to say that once the engine warmed up, I accelerated but there was a lag between the moment when I pressed the accelerator pedal and the effective response to the action made. In fact at first I noticed this problem when entering the highway in the bottom of 4th gear, the vehicle no longer accelerated at all. The pedal fully and even releasing and reapplying .... nothing. Blame the breaker? Renault has "fixed" the problem on the surface. The technician told me that there had been a problem with the lambda probe (which one?), according to what he saw on the Renault history of the previous owner. Idle always between 800-1000 rpm, but without going so far as to stall the engine. Recently I disassembled and cleaned the throttle body. I have an ODBII box and dedicated software that did not indicate any faults before dismantling and cleaning. It was not dirty for a vehicle that has 67,500 km. I went up. When starting the vehicle, I pressed the brake pedal fully several times and the engine stalled! I redo a diagnostic and it tells me fault P0351. I admit that I pulled slightly on cable 4 of the front ignition coil, but I pressed it well, and the terminal did not move until it was unclipped from the coil. I also sprayed Facom contact cleaner on the coil socket and let it dry before reconnecting. I then decided to turn off the ignition, disconnect the coil (same plug) and reconnect. The defect disappeared. On the other hand now I hear a noise (a bit like the noise we hear on your video) and if I don't really accelerate the engine stalls downright!! I disassembled and tested the ignition coil with a multimeter (low end from "Action"). I set to "200 Ohms" to test "A-B-C-D", for A/B- C/D value of 0.09 instead of 0.4 ohms and B/C value of 0.04 ohms instead of 0. then set the device to "20 K Ohms" to test cables 1/4 value 8.31 K Ohms instead of 9.8 k Ohms and 2/3 value 8.02 K Ohms instead of 9.6 K Ohms. Then tests cables 1/2, 1/3, 2/4 and 3/4 value "I." for "O.L", I think the cables are good so. The multimeter used does not allow setting below 200 Ohms and 20 K Ohms. The results may be good if you have to do a mathematical operation? What can i do now, change the throttle or the ignition coil ? Thanks for your help.
WOW! That is a long list of problems. Starting from the beginning the lambda sensor will be the precat one, it is responsible for fuelling when in closed loop and can cause symptoms similar to what you describe. They can be difficult to catch on this engine as they rarely put up a fault code. I watch live data and take the vehicle for a drive usually the sensor signal completely flatlines when the misfire happens. As for your new problem, check your brake servo vacuum pipe is securely connected and doesn't have any splits in it first. It sounds like you ranged your multi meter correctly and your measured values are a long way out of spec. I would be replacing the ignition coil.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Hi thank you so much for your answer. Just saw it and don't know why YT did not send me a bip to say you did. So i did buy a cheap ODBII and the "lambda 1" have been pointed with a "test failed". Guess it is the one i can see when i look from above the motor and not the oxygen one on the exhaust line. Ok will have a look at it. Hum the brake servo vacuum...ok i will look at the connectics anywhere. I have a break fluid purge to do to. I did buy a new multimeter with the "Ohms" position to be sure and the values said what you confirmed me. But as a beginner self-taught mechanic when you don't have the same tools than the tuto....you can't really be sure of any thing. I changed the ignition coil (NGK 49075) and some few things related to work better now. THANKS again. Will let you know.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Hello, news from the lambda before the precat. The ODBII shows that the mix between air and fuel is arround 14.65%. Which is the good one i think. So i don't know now what to look for ? Any thought ? Thanks.
I have an 07 version of this Clio, the car will not do more than 52 in 5th, I had the body off, cleaned it and put it back on, cleared the code with the diagnostic tool, unfortunately my Dad insist on running the engine for 15 instead of just turning the ignition on for 30 seconds then off for 30 seconds. What would this have done? Also, what do you mean by "drive cycles", please?.
What was the code you had? Performing the start up procedure wrong won't have done anything that you cannot fix, simply disconnect the battery for an hour and reconnect and do it properly. Drive cycles just means a road test really so the car can relearn all the ECU adaptives. These get cleared with any battery disconnect. Just driving the car will do it.
Hi, today when I turned on my ignition (same model) there were vibrations in the engine and the engine light on the dash was flashing. Would this be the coil pack?
The vibrations will be the engine misfiring most likely. The flashing engine light is "exhaust gas monitoring" likely set off by a large amount of fuel in the exhaust. You will need to get a code reader and see what codes are set.
HI, very good video. My car is DF4 728 similar to DF4 722. I have a question, i clean the throttle body and perform the calibration procedure. When I turned it on, everything was normal, it started to warm up and lowered the revolutions to less than 1000. But after driving for a while, the revolutions did not drop below 1800 with the car stopped. I don't think it's an air leak because when turn it on and wait for it to warm up the RPMs drop from 1500 cold to less than 1000 when warn. Any idea? Thanks you very much
Thank you very much for responding. When i clean it, do not disconnect the battery. When testing it, it did not regulate the RPM well, I realized that the calibration was missing. I unplugged the battery for 8 hours, then turned the ignition on, wait 30 seconds, turned off another 30 seconds, then started normal, and the RPM started at 1500 cold then dropped to less than 1000 when warm. But after driving for a while the RPM went up to 2000 . Would it be necessary to do the calibration again?
Was anything like this problem present before you cleaned the throttle body? I would try to calibrate again. If not you may need to look at live data to see what is changing to cause this RPM spike.
Before it had loss of power at more than 2000 RPM, for which the throttle body was cleaned. I calibrated it again and it's still the same. I'm going to connect a scanner p to see the problem. Thank you very much for the help. Excellent videos.
My wife's 08 Sandero with the same throttle body let her down last week. Unfortunately she was 300km from home, alone and it was a Sunday. The ADAC (German AA) man told her he could reset the error codes to get the car out of limp mode and she could chance driving home but she was alone and had a 3 hour drive in snowy conditions ahead of her so she opted to leave the car there and take a train. Luckily she has ADAC Plus Membership and they recovered the car back to here yesterday for no charge. The error codes the ADAC read out are for the throttle body so I whipped it off and gave it a good clean as a first step. There was what looked like factory applied dielectric grease in the wiring connector which seemed to have hardened a bit. I decided to clean the connector out with contact cleaner. Let's see what happens next. Will I need to clear those throttle body and Lambda sensor codes (probably a side-effect of the throttle body issue) p0638 p0120 respectively or will they self clear after a few starts? If the cleaning doesn't help what would your next step be? A replacement Pierburg throttle body is €137 so if there's something else I can try before leaping straight to that I'm all ears. I absolutely love your channel by the way. A really excellent way of making videos with no shortcuts or skipped stuff. A pleasure to watch.
Firstly thankyou for the support. I'm happy you are enjoying the channel. I have some questions. You mention about a lambda sensor code? What is that code as the ones you list are P0638 and P0120 which are throttle body or accelerator pedal related. Also the grease you say hardened, typically grease will only harden in high temperature environments. Dielectric greases are usually silicone based and don't harden, I'm hoping it isn't sealant or something, if you owned it since new then it must be factory but there should really be no need for anything in the connector as they have good weatherpacks in them. This would be my first port of call as its an obvious issue... definitely make sure you got it all out. I would definitely clear the code either way, that will reset the fuel trims and anything else that may have been thrown out. What I would do next is to watch the throttle position on live data in relation to how much the accelerator pedal is depressed (this can be done with ignition on engine off) also watch the pedal position tracks. There is lots of information available on how to understand the data. You can then go from there. Also... sometimes the pedal plug can get knocked, an easy fix. Let me know how that goes.
@@SocketsAndSideburns excellent. Thanks a lot for your help. You're right I forgot a code. The ADAC man scanned multiple 0638's, one single 0120 and one single 0136 which is listed as the Lambda sensor on the report. Yeah my wife has owned the car from new so whatever yellowish gunk was in there was from the factory I reckon. The car was never in a garage for running problems. I did replace the TDC sensor a few years back as it had an uneven idle and that seemed to sort it. Since then it's had no running problems. Ok I'll try to clear the code with my cheapo bluetooth OBDII tool and then google the live data stuff to see if the accelerator pedal is doing what it's supposed to. I prefer that than just replacing components. Do the pedal tracks tend to wear on these? It's not a low mileage car anymore, 202,000km on it now.
The P0136 is for sensor 2 which monitors the performance of the cat. Sensor 1 is the one which actually has an effect on engine operation. I wouldn't worry about that code yet. At 200k plus I'd be amazed to find out your on your first throttle body. They typically don't make 100k... miles that is. The pedals fail a little less frequently but it happens. Also sometimes the wiring connections and looms become corroded even on the new models.
@@SocketsAndSideburns she's on the original TB still but it's 201k km, about 125k miles so it sounds like the TB is due to fail around now. The TB is €160 for a Pierburg one. I don't feel comfortable with the €50-€100 eBay ones from China for such a safety critical component. The pedal assembly costs about half that for a Hella one but it sounds like from what you're saying that we're overdue a TB failure and it's the more likely component (assuming it's not a cabling issue) to be at fault here anyway. Having cleared the codes and taken the car for a decent spin it seems ok, no CEL and feels normal to me, with the exception of a very slightly uneven idle. It's around the correct 500-600rpm when warm but yeah, just slightly uneven. It's not as uneven as it was when I fixed it by replacing the crank position sensor. For the moment we'll keep the car local so I can get it back home should it go into limp mode again and then once the wiring is eliminated as best I can I'll probably replace the TB. I'll hook the OBD scanner up and test the pedal position sensor at the weekend.
Hi would changing the throttle body help with a loss of power and a fault code of the square with a loop through it. It goes into limp mode and has to be restarted. The power goes and limps along thanks
Hello, the fault lamp I believe you mean is just the "electronic fault" indicator. You will need to plug in a code reader to find a more specific direction.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Hi thanks for the reply. It’s at the garage and they have looked at it but apart from telling me there is a problem they don’t know where the problem is. They replaced the accelerator pedal some time ago and it worked for a while but now they are going to replace the throttle body to see if that works.
I would assume if they are going specifically the throttle body they must suspect it. I personally would want a little more than " see if it works" throttle bodies aren't cheap. Labour for replacement if it is the same engine as on this car should be no more than 1 hour. The throttle body itself is under £150 through my link and under £200 through a well known parts website.
At the 18:15 you didn't refit that connector properly! There is 2 pins in it and you went only over 1 pin. If you compare that connector position at 4:50, you can see the difference. Just wanted to point that out, because I struggled with it. Anyway, thanks for the vid! 🙏
Hello friend I need a little help. I have problem on my 2008 year mk3 Clio 1.2 petrol. When vehicle is parked throttle keeps going up and down to 1000 rpm to 1500 rpm non stop. If comes down than goes under 500 rpm and the motor is stalling. I have replaced the throttle body with new, calibrated and the problems is still there nothing changed. I have changed spark cables too. Thanks
This engine doesn't have any major weaknesses in its construction or design (Renault are still using this engine block today as the D4F 740) so as with all engines without any real flaws lifespan will depend on how well you maintain it. At the very least get the oil, oil filter and cambelt done in good time. Most of these end up going to the scrap heap because of engine management issues that people are unable to find or fix for less than the car is worth.
Hello, my clio went to 3000 rpm in idle after 10 minutes of driving. So I cleaned the throttle body and it goes immediately to 3000 rpm even just adter starting it! Does it mean that my valve is not working or does the memory need to learn the min max vslve position?
It shouldn't be doing that at all. You can try disconnecting battery first to reset. If that fails I would look at some live data and watch what the throttle plate is doing also.
I have a problem in my manual transmission, the car revs up without acceleration . It does not stay idle. Cannot neutral the car even at the traffic. Tried replacing a new throttle body, but same issue. Please advise me. Thank you
Checked for any codes? Throttle body can be ruled out just by observing what its doing when the problem occurs. The extra air is getting in somewhere so if the throttle isn't letting it in then there is a leak after it somewhere.
Hey, I have a quick question. The number of the throttle body currently in my clio is 8200568712B and I'm looking to replace it. Would a throttle body with 8200568712C printed on it be fine to fit onto my car even if the letters are different? Thank you!
I can't say for sure, they look the same if you search the part numbers. Probably best to ask at a Renault dealership if the parts department is friendly.
Ref Renault Megane mk1 1.4i 16v engine..............I am in Portugal with a 2002 renault. I bought it privately and its a really nice car, been well looked after, done 195.000kms. Just one issue I have and cannot get any sensible info from Portuguese garages (apart from you need a new throttle body for €400 + fitting). The only issue is that on start up, the engine revs to around 12-1500rpm and is constant. I dive a few Kms and temp guage is showing normal. But then when I stop the engine is idling between 700rpm and 1500rpm, up and down every second. It wil do this for some time. If I leave the car and then go back to it after 10/15 mins, it will idle perfectly at 750rpm and steady.........but then again a further drive of maybe 10kms and it does the up and down again.I cannot seem to get any real understanding as toi why it is doing this. I do get a faint smell of petrol on th eoutside as if its running on choke or rich. But fuel consumption is about right at 6kms for 100kms at motorway driving. Car runs perfectly OK at all times just idling is the issue.................any ideas??
Firstly I would look for any codes. If there is nothing I would start with checking for a vacuum leak. Then I'd look at live data from the lambda sensor at idle speed.
@@SocketsAndSideburns hi thnks for reply. After i got the car, about a year ago, (only done 5k kms since then), the engine light came on, so I bought a small OBD2 meter which said Rear which suggested the second sensor after the cat......so assumed it was a Cat issue. With that in mind and knowing that the previous owner had only done a lot of town work, I took the car on a long drive, after having removed the code. A month later it came back on. In the meantime it had actually passed the very strict MOT down here. Again removed it, and continued to drive it harder.engine light has never come back on again. Now there re no codes registering. On occasions I do hear a hissing sound from under the dash, but that comes and goes. Brake peddle is fine when driving and goes hard after switching engine off. I can see some info on my small OBD 2 reader but not sure what I am looking at apart from error codes. Would this consistent with a vacuum leak?? Hopefully not the brake servo !!!
Does anyone know if there is another way to reset the throttle position sensor? I’ve tried the 30 seconds on and 30 seconds off reset but still have an intermittent issue where I get a loss of power. Acceleration seems fine if I just touch the pedal gently but if I put more pressure on the car starts to hesitate. If I put my foot to the floor I get a surge forward. It’s a new accelerator pedal and throttle body and I’ve got no eml lights.
I am not aware of another way. I would recommend getting a code reader that can see live data so you can watch the accelerator pedal reading and see if it is sometimes dropping out or behaving strangely.
Hallo Today i cleaned my throttle body of my 1.6 clio from 2001 (no facelift) Put the ignition on and of but the idle is stil way to high... It seems to not calibrating the valve.... Is there a other way to calibrate?
That is a very early Clio. Does it have an electronic throttle body, I believe the early ones were cable operated. Other than using an advanced scan tool this is the only reset I'm aware of.
@@SocketsAndSideburns OK! My Clio Campus 2008 1.2 8v lose power when is pressed throttle on start in 1 gear and so on switching each next gear throttle lag 1-2 sec after that works great! In idle not on cold star in very cold conditions below zero Celsius an even rpm. Very strong smell of fuel in the exhaust gases...Where is the problem in air sensor dirty throttle or? I noticed low whistling sound like air leaking... maybe problem is somewhere else?
I'm expecting mine to be cleaned today but no idea how much a clean would be. I've had loss of power from the pedal then it suddenly kicks in and jolts u out of nowhere And violently shakes when idle when it hasn't run for more then a day and check engine light comes on every now and then
I would say an hours labour tops at a good garage if its the same engine as on the vehicle in this video. I would get the codes checked and see what they are, violent shaking will likely be more than one cylinder misfiring.
Hi , I am looking at a fault on 2008 1.2 clio 3 for a friend who is just 19 who bought the car private and has had no luck with it. It is showing up a throttle range fault P0638. Took off the air filter and the butterfly not opening when accelator pedal pressed 95% of the time. I took off the throttle body and if I shake while holding the butterfly there is something rattling under the black cover. If I put my finger on the black cover and tilt back and forth I can feel something on the inside hitting the cover. Is something rattling /loose under the black cover normal on these, I am thinking not and excess wear inside of a clogged wheel or similar? Thanks Pat
Hey Pat. That is unfortunate for your friend. No there absolutely should not be anything rattling around under the cover. I'm afraid you'll probably be needing a new throttle body. Its probably a piece of gear that has broken off although no way to know for sure without opening it up. I do have a video where I open up a one of these throttle bodies that failed ua-cam.com/video/hHXms2sMpxM/v-deo.html You can get a look inside the cover yourself by drilling the rivets out. I expect whatever has broken off inside is also jamming the gears. At any rate absolutely don't drive it like that until you find out what's broken off of have fitted a new one. Good luck and let me know how you get on.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Thanks for your advice, if he buys a new one as hard to get a second hand one as may have similar issues do I just follow ur procedure for to tie/adapt the throttle body to the car or do you need to bring to renault to load software to the new throttle body?
Its always best to get a new one if its in budget. Second hand ones can and do come already failed. Yes just follow the procedure, the one I give is in Renaults own workshop manual for the Clio Mk3.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Thanks for your help, I got a second hand throttle body and pedal from a crashed 2007. Put in the throttle body and pedal, trained thr throttle body as per procedure and drove perfect for 15miles if you turn off the car for 15mins it goes back into limp mode but no codes. If you leave off the negative lead for a few hours and put back it starts and drives perfectly again. Any ideas of cause or have you seen similar as very weird? Thanks Pat
That is odd. Especially limp mode with no codes. If this wasn't present before and now is I'd start with the parts changed. Accelerator pedal first, take it out and put old one back and see what happens. Does it start fine all the time?
Sorry for the dumb question, but when you say “turn ignition on for 30 seconds” do you mean the electrics or actually start her up? Lot of people mean different things when they say that. I assume it means engine on, ignition/ignite lol but gotta check
It is not a dumb question. You don't know until you know. By ignition on I mean electrics... dash lights up and you'll hear fuel pump prime. If I meant start the engine I would say "start the engine" or something very similar. On the Clio ignition switch there are 4 positions if you look at the barrel you can see them marked where the key goes in. 1. Stop (St) Everything off and the steering lock will engage if you turn the wheel. 2. Auxiliaries (A) Accessories will run... radio ect. 3. Ignition On (M) All electricals on... fuel prime... vehicle ready to start. 4. Start (D) Engine start. Hope that helps.
@@SocketsAndSideburns thank you very much, appreciate the response! Unfortunately this fix didn’t work for my car. Currently waiting for AA to come out and see if they can diagnose what’s wrong with my Clio. At the end of my wits with it, I have the P0638 throttle body fault/performance bank 1 fault code with an intermittent misfire in the drivers side cylinder (4/1? Not sure how french number them). Cleaned contacts & throttle body, replaced throttle body, replaced sparks coil pack and leads, check fuses and relays, cleaned o2 sensor and MAP sensor but nothing Hopefully they will be able to diagnose the fault
Hola buen día cómo estás , te hago una consulta, tengo un clio 1.2 16v que le hice la tapa y ayer cuando lo terminamos de armar, lo prendimos, quedó relativamente bien, pero salí a probarlo y al hacer unas 15 cuadras dejo de acelerar, el auto queda prendido regulando pero no acelera, si me pudieras dar una mano con eso a ver qué puede ser te lo agradecería un montón, abrazos, le colocamos el scanner me salió error p0638, p0504 y p0443
Great video mate, I have watched all of your videos and I am going to try this throttle body clean. I have a very annoying low tickover speed on my Mark 3 1.2 16v tce ... Sometimes it is so slow it's just stops. I have read that this model is designed to tick over at approximately 650 RPM which is a bit slow. There is a video on UA-cam with exactly the same problem and the only way to increase the tickover speed is to put the air conditioning on and select speed 1 on the fan I guess this puts more load on the electrical system and allows the brain to increase the tickover slightly faster maybe?? Any thoughts would be appreciated thank you keep doing the videos ua-cam.com/video/3xI4F04DZHA/v-deo.html
Thanks for the support. You are correct that all the 1.2 16vs are designed with a relatively low idle speed 650rpm is right. The D4F 740 being the very lowest which is what you should have. The Clio 2 we own will happily idle at 700rpm. Are there any other symptoms other than low idle and cutting out? Does it have a low idle when its cold? Through the winter was this problem present or is it new with the summer on the way? Hesitation on acceleration? Misfires? Fault codes? When its cutting out is it just a gentle cut out of violent shaking of the engine trying to recover before eventually cutting out? You can certainly clean the throttle body as a start point. What's the vehicles service history? If items are nearly due they may be suspect. Any recent repairs carried out? Vacuum leak after the throttle body is a possibility also. If you have access to a scan tool that can read live data it will help a lot, sometimes it can be the only way to catch the cause of low idle on these. Let me know about the things I've asked and we might be able to narrow it down.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Hi mate thank you for your reply and your thoughts .... The low idle speed doesn't seem to be linked to a season as it does it all the time. It will start perfect and run faster until the engine has warmed up, but then for instance if I come to a traffic light it normally slows down too much no shaking etc...and stops it doesn't vary speed i.e. 'Hunt' etc. I was a mechanic myself in my youth in the days when you could just turn a screw to get your idle speed right!! so I'm not that proficient with the technical stuff off today??- I have changed the coil pack and plugs before as this is a favourite, but I will test the coil pack as you have shown in your you're another video. I occasionally get an engine light flashing but it goes away while driving normally. I have a basic OBD reader and this has picked up a random misfire at times? I think I will give it a service at the weekend clean the throttle body first And map sensor (is there a test for the map Sensor?) ...and go from there. I will let you know if I make any progress thanks again , loving your in-depth videos 😉
From what you are describing it would seem the car is only doing this when it is in closed loop fuelling. For me the first thing I'd be doing is watching the Lambda sensors voltage graph but unfortunately you'll need live data for that. Does your code reader tell you which cylinder or cylinders is causing the miss? If it does that may help point towards a more likely cause. I'm glad you are enjoying the channel.
@@SocketsAndSideburns hi , thanks for that - I must admit I had to Google "closed loop fueling" but I do understand it now 😉... Code indicated random misfire not a certain cylinder ? It does smell a little 'rich' sometimes although spark plug colour fine. The Lambada Sensor is easily accessible so I think I'll swap it out first 😀 but will also do clean and service while I'm in there . Cheers - I'll let you know the outcome . 😉
@@seanwhatford did you have any joy with your idling problem? I have a Clio 3 that idles roughly when warmed up too. Doesn't cut out though, just a rough idle.
do not repeat what this young man did, never put pressure on the flap from the inside, it is enough to clean it with a spray and a penson. God, he put the screwdriver in the flap. omg
Love your videos. I have a Twingo 2 2011 with the same engine at I suspect a faulty trottle body. It hard to start and revs up to 3500 rpm ua-cam.com/video/qLeY4DLsBIE/v-deo.html. My scan tool shows the throttle opening to be 21.2 % constantly. No matter if the car is running or just the ignition on. Even with the throttle body off. Also no reaction pressing the gas pedal. I noticed that yours is spring loaded. Mine will not flip back by it self.
Hello, I watched your video... wow. You mention that the throttle plate does not spring back into the default idle position? If you watch my video ua-cam.com/video/hHXms2sMpxM/v-deo.html you can see how these throttles work. Specifically the spring back which is mechanical and governed purely by the throttle. If you remove the throttle body from the car and the plate does not spring back to this default position then that is your problem.
@@SocketsAndSideburns I´ve put in a new throttle body and the car runs again. I´ve driven it for a couple of hours, but the car has not learned that it has a new TB. When the car is warm it idles at 1400 rpm, and when accelerating at shifting gear, its slow to rev down, when I press the clutch and let go of the gas pedal. I´ve tried a few TB relearn procedures, but with no luck - any suggestions ?
Did you disconnect the battery when you replaced it? If not then disconnect the battery wait a few hours then do the relearn again. The relearn procedure in the video is for all the D4F 722 and 728 Clio's I very much doubt it would be different for the Twingo. All vacuum pipes reconnected in correct places after throttle change? All gaskets in place? If that fails it may be that something else is wrong in addition to the throttle fault I would suggest pouring over the live data particularly fuel trims. Assuming the throttle position is responding correctly now of course.
@@SocketsAndSideburns it’s definitely the relearning procedure where I’m missing something. Today I took the old TP apart cleaned it and put it back together. It is now back in the car and everything is normal. But I want to get the new one running so I will be at it again tomorrow. By the way, does the procedure you follow come from a Renault workshop manual?. I am starting to wonder if my D4F 770 from 2011 has to be programmed by a scan tool.
@@SocketsAndSideburns IT WORKS !!. Thank you Mr. Burns. I must have forgotten to disconnect the battery the first time. Did the process over again this morning and took it for a trip. It’s not quite there yet, but has improved a lot. Earlier it idled at 1400 rpm, now 1000 rpm. The revving up when accelerating and shifting gear is almost gone.
I have a 2001 clio and appears to go into limp mode when the engine revs keep bouncing up and down and I no control over the revs. Could it be the throttle body causing this problem?
Young man - this is an exceptionally clear video for a problem my daughter has with her Clio. Thank you so much for posting.
You are very welcome.
@@SocketsAndSideburns hi
Thank you, brother! It's a very straight-forward and easy to understand. I'm a complete beginner when it comes to car engines. This year I noticed that my Clio's fuel consumption was increased as compared to the previous year. Also, the RPM at idling was over 1000, although it used to be 600-700 RPM at idling. My gas pedal also became very hard (my English is not that good, sorry). I had to press the gas pedal HARD to move the car, otherwise, it would simply "shut down" when I start releasing the clutch pedal. Last month I sent my Clio to a detailed overhaul, and told them about the problem. They changed brake pads and stuff, fuel pump and several other parts, but the problem wasn't solved. When I told them about it few days later, they simply told me "It's because we changed the fuel pump." I came home disappointed. I called my dad, who's a professional truck driver. He said, "It's the throttle valve, it has to be cleaned and they simply didn't bother to do it!" So, I googled about cleaning the throttle valve, and came across your video. I followed your instructions to the letter, including the brand of the throttle cleaner. And I did it, successfully! The problem is now solved, RPM is back to 600-700, gas pedal is now soft as it should be, and the fuel consumption is back to normal as well. Not only that my car had to re-learn the values, but also I had to re-learn to press the gas pedal GENTLY, lol :) And let me tell you: my throttle body was SO DIRTY, it took me a few hours to clean it. The one in your video is not even close to what mine used to look like before I cleaned it. THANK YOU SO MUCH for this video! Officially, you're my hero of the year! Keep up the good work!
Well done on fixing your Clio!
Very good mechanic.not a part exchanger mechanic. Top gun
Nice clear and thorough instructions. Thanks for the video.
Nice video. 722 throttle body location is soooooooo much better than the 712.
722 is better in so many ways. Whole air intake redesign and way better ECU location. A really good effort by Renault to solve previous issues. A solid first car for new drivers in my opinion.
Thanks for the vid, my parents car wasnt running properly and i needed to fix it, first time working on an engine and hopefully not the last!
Well done! If you ever have any questions just ask.
Great and concise video! Changed my air filter the other day and noticed that the throttle body was quite dirty. I want to source a replacement gasket for it before removing it though as I don't know how old the existing one is. I've been having no luck in finding the gasket online, hoping you might have a suggestion. 1.2 D4F. Thanks!
I have disturbed the one on the car in this video countless times. They are nice and supple and don't seem to deform. I couldn't find a new one myself. I think you will be fine using the old one.
Nice video, clear, concise, great knowledge and info. Nice one
Very good video, i think at engine cleaner in spray gonna work too
hi, nice video. I wanted to ask you, since I have a petrol third series Clio, 1.2. I wanted to ask you if the procedure for disassembling and reassembling the throttle body is identical. This question was also directed at the video you made of the entire body of the reel. Thanks, bye.
If the engine code is D4F 722 or 728 then yes it will be.
Thanks for this video. Is there any programing at all when you change? Or Will the car always program itself?
The only programming to do is what I go over at the end of the video.
I have p0638. Only had the car 3 months. Going to try this next week
Did it work ?
Hey loved the video
I got a problem on mine with high idle and not stable idle you thinks it’s a throttle problem or something else .
I got fresh oil , air filter as well as spark plugs
Thankyou. Unfortunately it could be so many things. Anything from a vacuum leak to a bad sensor. The best thing to do would be to look at live OBD data and get a direction. However the throttle body is a candidate and cleaning it might be a good starting point.
Hello, I have the same car and I noticed that when I stop (for example at a red light) the rpms go under the minimum (500 rpms), sometimes very near to the 0 and then slowly come back to 500rpms. Do you think a dirty throttle body could be the only problem? Because I've star noticing that it's also difficult for the car to go at temperature (it stops at just 2 notches instead of 4) even after a lot of km.
Thank you very much for this very helpful video, I will for sure try and clean the throttle body of my Renault Clio
Hello, regarding the temperature gauge issue, usually they don't rise above two blocks in the winter time four in the summer time. If it has been two blocks on hot days however then its likely the sensor is faulty.
I wouldn't suspect this to cause such a large idle issue though.
Does the car run badly at any other engine speed or condition?
What is the servicing history like?
@@SocketsAndSideburns Thank you very much for your kind and fast reply, I really appreciate it.
It has been on two blocks even during hot days and long mileages... by the sensor you mean the lambda/oxygen one?
The clio runs smoothly at every speed and condition, just when I stop the engine goes below the minimum rps.
Servicing has been really poor but I have just now completed an extensive and complete service and everything seems fine.
Thank you again for your interest. Greetings from Italy.
I meant the coolant temperature sensor.
Does the car try to stall or misfire as the rpms drop or does it still run smoothly. If its smooth you may want to check the TDC sensor.
It still runs smoothly, I will try to check that out.
Thank you very much for your kind help!
30 seconds on and of the engine after cleaning and after that, drive like before ?
Hi, seems inside axes for gears to to sized and need lubricant or grease and the electronic parts seems to worn out too. Is this learning procedure xorks and a brand new one, please? Thanks.
hi, great video, i drive a Renault megane 1.6 79kw 2001, all the rings oring the whole set have been changed, all the sensors have been checked and everything is great, everything is clean but I have a problem with the first start after it cools down no problem starts, secondly why the arrow does not rest goes from 730 to 780 is not constant does not rest, thanks for each answer.
Are you saying it is difficult to start when the engine is hot?
The idle speed you will need to figure out if the jumping is a true reading or if the sensor is at fault.
Thankyou for the video. I was wondering if brake cleaner is something I could use to clean the throttle body?
If it is all you have you can give it a go.
I cleaned the throttle body out last night as the car is misfiring usually worse once it’s warmed up. Also lacking in power sluggish when accelerating, I’ve ordered some new spark plugs, coil pack and ht leads
Definitely would recommend investing in a code reader that can see live data if you have the money so you can get a look at what the lambda sensor is doing. I have a video for checking coil packs.
@@SocketsAndSideburns problem fixed, replaced all 4 spark plugs new coil pack and ht leads car drives great
I've read moving the butterfly valve manually can damage the throttle body in terms of the electronics. Thoughts? I have the same car and would like to take my throttle body out to have it cleaned
Firstly as I say in the video be sure to disconnect the battery and fully remove the throttle body. Manipulating the throttle plate when the throttle body is still connected is dangerous and the car may bring up fault codes.
With the throttle body disconnected the plate closes by a spring built into the throttle body. So when you manually open it it will close itself to a default position when you let go. Just don't force it past its normal range of movement. I have done this procedure this way several times and never had any issues.
Thanks. I've taken it off. There seems to be a hint of oil around gasket. I proceeded to remove the air filter and there was oil on the end of the filter that sits by the throttle body. Any idea where this oil came from?
Most likely from the PCV. I had some oil in my airbox also when I changed the air filter in the service video I did. As long as its not much (easily wipeable with a rag and not a puddle of it) then just monitor it. The PCV valve on these engines is integral with the rocker cover so not exactly cheap to change although you could clean the accessible hoses. I will be making a video in the future removing the rocker cover and taking a look at the PCV system on these engines.
Thanks it's the best cleaning throttle body video 💐
You're welcome!
@@SocketsAndSideburns
Please i want to ask why the valve still littly open after cleaning throttle body, IS there any solution or tips to close it
Thanks 💐💐💐
The throttle valve will always be open a little. This is a default position set by a stop that shouldn't need adjusting. If you watch this video I made you can see the stop I'm talking about and how much the throttle should be open. ua-cam.com/video/hHXms2sMpxM/v-deo.html
@@SocketsAndSideburns
I followed all the instructions in cleaning my clio throttle body and make all tips and tasks in your video, résulte => the ressort sign disappear from the board, the car stability and running become more efficient, but The problem now still in the morning, my clio cannot start, the engine want to start but cannot, i solve this problem when i spray cleaning liquid in the valve then i start, my car start.
Please can you diagnose if my throttle body can be repaired or it failed, and i should replace it by a new one (because of the starting failed in the morning) .
Thanks Sir 💐
Try spraying easy start into the air intake when cranking in the morning. If the car fires up then its fuel that's missing. I suspect the cleaner is acting as a fuel substitute and allowing the car to start as its likely flammable.
This was useful. Thank you for the content.
Where is the throttle body located on the variant of the 1.2 engine with the cylinder shaped air filter? Thanks.
hello mate love your vids. I have a 2009 mk3 1.2 Clio and it has a major misfire on random cylinders and at least once a day it will go into limp mode until car is restarted the exhaust is loose/shakey but not sure if related, it idle around 500 (very jumpy) and mpg has gone to 26 replaced spark plugs and coil pack and it feels a lil more punchy but still going into limp, does this sound like throttle body? ps it also has electronic fault every so often where the revs get completely stuck at around 2-3000 until turned off and when stationary and I press my foot 1-2cm deep on the pedal and keep it there it stalls?any replies much appreciated!thanks car is 115k
Definitely get a look for vacuum leaks first. After that take a look at live data. You can check the throttle pedal position and the throttle plate position to rule them out.
@@SocketsAndSideburns thanks for the reply mate really appreciate it, cleaned the tb and still the same so defo going to have a look for this next just have one more question, after I cleaned the throttle body and replaced I noticed the throttle body only opens when the pedal is fully depressed and it opens fully no halfway or small increments of open/closing just straight opens up and then shuts as soon as I take pedal off the floor, would you suggest throttle position sensor? Much thanks again
You really need to look at live data on a scanner to see whether its the pedal sensor or the throttle body itself. Best to diagnose properly as neither part is cheap.
Hello, great explanatory video. My mom's clio 3 lately shuts off in the first morning start to make him hold the idle I need to give a little gas for a couple seconds, also I noticed that the idle with the engine warm is quite low, around 600-700 i'd say. I will definitely clean the throttle body and maf sensor, what other things besides these ones would you recommend to check. Also another quick questions is it possible to change the fuel filter on these cars? I looked under it and I didn't find it.
Hello and thankyou.
Petrol models of the Clio 3 do not have a serviceable fuel filter. On early Clio 2 models (pre June 2001) there was a fuel filter fitted to the front of the fuel tank.
On later 1.2 16v Clios like the one in the video the filter is in the tank as part of the fuel feed unit and is not a service item. Same as the Clio 3s.
Idle of 600 to 700 is normal for the 1.2 engine. The Clio in this video idles at 650 - 700rpm
As for the starting... Does it crank at a good speed but then struggle to stay started unless you hold the gas for a few seconds? Or is it cranking slow? Are there any other symptoms? Hesitation on acceleration? Misfires? Fault codes?
Servicing up to date?
@@SocketsAndSideburns Hey thank you for your explanatory reply. It cranks normal but after the engine starting the rpms start droping like in a bouncing movement till it shuts the engine off. I already cleaned the throttle body (wich was quite dirty) and the maf sensor (wich had a little bit of oil, probably from the breather) but the problem was not fixed, since it only happens in the first morning start i think other option could be the coolant sensor, what do you think my friend? I also recently replaced spark plugs and spark plugs wires, air filter, oil filter and oil.
Oh and other thing, when i replaced the spark plugs i used a small camera and noticed that the pistons have a lot of carbon wich could indicate a bad air/fuel mixture right? The engine is at 60 000 kilometers only and the pistons already look worse than my 94 clio rti
Hmmmm well you've replaced a significant chunk of the ignition system there and given it a good service.
I understand the RPMs are shaking but is the engine also shaking? This would mean a significant misfire, a bad coil pack can cause a two cylinder miss as its wasted spark on these engines but the only time I've seen it bad enough to cause a stall was a bad lambda sensor causing awful missing.
First thing I recommend is trying to start it this way. Key to ignition for five seconds but don't start, key off, then immediately try to start. This will give you an extra fuel prime. Does it start first time?
Next thing to try and help rule out the lambda if you don't have a code reader is just let it idle for a few mins so it goes into closed loop fuelling. It should cut out of miss badly.
Omg this is my car too! I need to fully step on gas so it starts, it cranks but won't start unless the throttle is wide open.. It runs fine in gear though and accelerates with no issues, what's wrong with it 🙄
I have a Renault Clio 1.2 16v from 2001, i've noticed that the throttle isnt responding well, it's like it has a delay... I press the throttle and only after a small period of time the revs go up, its so strange to drive like this and i cant manage to find what's the issue... could it be that the throttle body is dirty?
Amazing video btw, keep it up !
It could be the throttle body being dirty yes. Unfortunately it is a little harder to get to on the D4F 712 that will be mounted in your car.
Before you clean it I recommend you consider the service history, specifically your sparks and air filter. If either are overdue get a look at them and change them if necessary. also check for a vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold or any of the vacuum hoses running off it.
Same problem for me, renault clio 3 1.2 16v 55kw 2010, throttle delay, I press the gas pedal and only after a certain time the engine revs increase. Also the pedal itself does not give linear gas, for example I press the pedal very little, nothing happens, I press a little more, then I'm already at 1500 rpm. The car currently has about 115 thousand km. I removed the throttle body and cleaned it, with that I got a little quieter engine operation and the number of revolutions of the engine came back to normal because it was a little too low before the cleaning itself. Do you think replacing the throttle body would fix the lag problem, or is it possible that the electronic throttle itself is causing the problem, which I've heard exists on the mk2 clio but not the mk3. sorry for the bad text, i used google translate.
Thank you so much for you excelent video. I have to question: 1 How often is it necessary to clean the throttle body? 2 My renaul Clio 2003 is an antique. The problem is that it does not accelerate and I have to wait 10 minutes .And acceleration started successfully. I might do it two to three times during the tour. Do you have any opinion about this defect?
Welcome to the channel. There is no set interval for the cleaning, I would just say check it if you are having running issues and if it's dirty clean it.
Any other symptoms other than lack of acceleration?
Are you saying that it does not accelerate at all until warm or just doesn't accelerate normally? And even when warmed for ten minuets the problem will still happen sometimes?
What is your temperature gauge doing while this is going on?
@@SocketsAndSideburns Thank you. I understand now. well... It occurs when the temperature gauge has not risen, not even to the temperature scale indicated.. In other words, off the scale. The working regime is between 67 degrees Celsius = 152.6 F, to 179.6F. But I have good news. I have cleaned with cleaner for throttle body and then I have released it again. The code disappeared and 17 miles per gls. Not bad. I say. I really apprecite your help. God bless you.
How does it go through drive cycles? do I need to do something? or just turn ignition on for 30 and off for 30? Thanks
Drive cycles simply means driving the car. The engine needs to go through various conditions to fully relearn its values. This will usually be accomplished just by normal driving.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Thanks, and great informative video
@@SocketsAndSideburns So if got this procedure correctly, after reassembling I turn the ignition without starting the engine, leave it 30 seconds turned on, and then turn it off for 30 seconds. After that what do I do, start the car, and drive normally? Thanks.
@@jakovlatkovic5992 Correct. Drive the car normally.
Does this air box fit the d4f engine of 2000?
Because your air box is a better design which gives more torque in the low rev ranges so it improves the drivability of the car
But i could do with another setup aswell
Like a k&n inlay filter
Off the top of my head I can't think how you can easily get it to fit. The airbox is basically part of the inlet manifold on the earlier D4Fs.
@@SocketsAndSideburns ok mine is the first ever built
Hello, are these procedures the same for the 2007 clio 3 D4F 740 engine?
My vehicle has low idle and fluctuation. Could that be the reason?
Welcome to the channel. Yes this procedure should be the same. In the video I go through the differences between removing it on the Mk2 and 3 Clios.
As for whether it will be the cause of low idle I cannot say. However if the throttle body had never been cleaned or has gone more than 25,000 miles since it was last cleaned then its a good place to start.
Also consider your Clios service history. If its overdue a service especially air filter and sparks in the case of idle fluctuations then give it a service as a starting point.
I have a video up for servicing these engines that you can watch.
Erratic idle can be caused by a great many things. Some things will obviously be more likely than others knowing vehicle's history. However if you have no codes to point you in a direction then clean the throttle body and here are some other things to check:
-Vacuum leak, any air getting into the intake stream that the engine is not in control of, check for split vac pipes or any failing gaskets.
-Air filter being extremely dirty and overdue (servicing like I said)
Spark plugs being worn (servicing again)
Check back and let us know how you get on.
@@SocketsAndSideburns First of all, thank you very much. I just changed the air filter and spark plugs. I think it's caused by the throttle. I will consider your suggestions. I will share the developments here. Greetings from Turkey.
I understand the 30 second reset but can I ask what are the drive cycles you are on about at the end of the video. My dauter has a twingo and the set up of the clip engine looks the same.
Drive cycles just means a road test really so the car can relearn all the ECU adaptives. These get cleared with any battery disconnect. Just driving the car will do it.
When resetting the throttle position during the 30secs with ignition 'on'. Do you have to press the accelerator fully down so it knows the max, or does it learn it without pressing it?
The procedure in the video is what you do. No need to touch the accelerator.
Super.Thank you so much for posting.
Hello,
I have changed the throttle body and I still have this error. Any tipps?
I have the P0225 error too.
The fault you have actually refers to the accelerator pedal position sensor. This will display similar symptoms to a bad throttle body.
First visually check the the accelerator pedal unit, make sure it isn't damaged and no floor mats or anything are pushing on it or its wiring. Next you can disconnect it and give the plug a clean with contact cleaner. If that fails then you will be into verifying the fault by testing the pedal unit and replacing it if it's bad and if not checking the wiring. The pedal unit is a common failure.
Hello Again, thanks for the vid. I've taken my throttle body off as there seemed to be oil leaking from it, put it back on and used it for around a week, then had a look to see if this happened again, and there seems to be a bit in there. Do you know what this means, is it normal to have oil in your throttle body?
If you have noticed it leaking then I assume we are talking a lot of oil here? It can only be coming in through the PCV system. When was the air filter last changed? Check it anyway along with it housing, follow downstream along the air intake from there checking its clear up to the throttle body, you may find a pooled area of oil. Then check the PCV hoses. On the D7F one is attached to the underside of the pipe feeding the throttle body the other comes from under this pipe and over it to downstream of the throttle body. The one upstream of the throttle is more likely to be the issue.
Also check engine oil level, overfilled sumps can cause this.
Hi do you know if this engine use old fashioned "spin-on" metal oil filters , or paper filters? I see both metal ones and paper ones when ordering
Hey, if your engine is the D4F 722 like the one in this video then it will be a metal spin on canister as in the video. Watch my video on identifying the Clio 1.2 16v engines if you are unsure which you have. ua-cam.com/video/CnuLWbRXr-I/v-deo.html
Also if you open the bonnet and look down from the right angle over the back left of the engine you should be able to see the oil filter and identify which you have.
@@SocketsAndSideburns thanks a lot! will look next time I open the bonnet
Also I didn't realise this was posted to the throttle body video. I have a video on servicing these if you are planning on changing your oil that's all in there ua-cam.com/video/FVd4OLSQCw8/v-deo.html
Good luck.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Thanks again , this will be really helpful. Thumbs up to your videos
Hey! Appreciate the video, i own a 2001 Mk2 1.2 16v, has fluctuation on idle, biggest issue is that sometimes, when starting, the RPMs get between 1100/1500 and when i press the accelerator, it gives a very "touchy" INSTANT response going immediately to the 2600/3000 zone by barely touching the accelerator pedal, if I don't remove my foot from the accelerator, it stops receiving acceleration, no matter how hard i press, it will only accelerate again, if i remove my foot from the accelerator and step on it again, doing this pretty much in a cycle, generally stops when it reaches an operational temperature, and then it's like a new car, any clues as if it might be throttle body related? Anything else possibly? Thanks in advance.
This is the kind of problem really requires a code reader with live data. You can then watch the data an determine what may be at fault. It may well be the throttle body but it could also be the accelerator pedal.
@@SocketsAndSideburns hey again! Haven't fixed the problem due to a busy life and the problem (obviously) persists, in case it's the accelerator pedal, apart from reading data, is there anything you could recommend? Thank you for your help!
You can clean the plug but apart from that there isn't really anything else except replacing it.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Hello, thank you for your answers from before, checked the problem out and it turned out to be the pedal potentiometer, it hasn't done the weird behaviour again and it idles like it should!
Hi . In 2019 I bought my Logan MCV 1.2 16v from 2016 which had an acceleration problem. That is to say that once the engine warmed up, I accelerated but there was a lag between the moment when I pressed the accelerator pedal and the effective response to the action made. In fact at first I noticed this problem when entering the highway in the bottom of 4th gear, the vehicle no longer accelerated at all. The pedal fully and even releasing and reapplying .... nothing. Blame the breaker? Renault has "fixed" the problem on the surface. The technician told me that there had been a problem with the lambda probe (which one?), according to what he saw on the Renault history of the previous owner. Idle always between 800-1000 rpm, but without going so far as to stall the engine. Recently I disassembled and cleaned the throttle body. I have an ODBII box and dedicated software that did not indicate any faults before dismantling and cleaning. It was not dirty for a vehicle that has 67,500 km. I went up. When starting the vehicle, I pressed the brake pedal fully several times and the engine stalled! I redo a diagnostic and it tells me fault P0351. I admit that I pulled slightly on cable 4 of the front ignition coil, but I pressed it well, and the terminal did not move until it was unclipped from the coil. I also sprayed Facom contact cleaner on the coil socket and let it dry before reconnecting. I then decided to turn off the ignition, disconnect the coil (same plug) and reconnect. The defect disappeared.
On the other hand now I hear a noise (a bit like the noise we hear on your video) and if I don't really accelerate the engine stalls downright!! I disassembled and tested the ignition coil with a multimeter (low end from "Action"). I set to "200 Ohms" to test "A-B-C-D", for A/B- C/D value of 0.09 instead of 0.4 ohms and B/C value of 0.04 ohms instead of 0. then set the device to "20 K Ohms" to test cables 1/4 value 8.31 K Ohms instead of 9.8 k Ohms and 2/3 value 8.02 K Ohms instead of 9.6 K Ohms. Then tests cables 1/2, 1/3, 2/4 and 3/4 value "I." for "O.L", I think the cables are good so. The multimeter used does not allow setting below 200 Ohms and 20 K Ohms. The results may be good if you have to do a mathematical operation?
What can i do now, change the throttle or the ignition coil ? Thanks for your help.
WOW! That is a long list of problems.
Starting from the beginning the lambda sensor will be the precat one, it is responsible for fuelling when in closed loop and can cause symptoms similar to what you describe. They can be difficult to catch on this engine as they rarely put up a fault code. I watch live data and take the vehicle for a drive usually the sensor signal completely flatlines when the misfire happens.
As for your new problem, check your brake servo vacuum pipe is securely connected and doesn't have any splits in it first.
It sounds like you ranged your multi meter correctly and your measured values are a long way out of spec.
I would be replacing the ignition coil.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Hi thank you so much for your answer. Just saw it and don't know why YT did not send me a bip to say you did. So i did buy a cheap ODBII and the "lambda 1" have been pointed with a "test failed". Guess it is the one i can see when i look from above the motor and not the oxygen one on the exhaust line. Ok will have a look at it. Hum the brake servo vacuum...ok i will look at the connectics anywhere. I have a break fluid purge to do to. I did buy a new multimeter with the "Ohms" position to be sure and the values said what you confirmed me. But as a beginner self-taught mechanic when you don't have the same tools than the tuto....you can't really be sure of any thing. I changed the ignition coil (NGK 49075) and some few things related to work better now. THANKS again. Will let you know.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Hello, news from the lambda before the precat. The ODBII shows that the mix between air and fuel is arround 14.65%. Which is the good one i think. So i don't know now what to look for ? Any thought ? Thanks.
Can I do the same easily with TCE 1.2 H5F?
Hi is this the same reset procedure for a mk4 clio 1.2 16valve,this car runs then runs rough and cuts out,many thanks
I'm afraid I don't know.
I have an 07 version of this Clio, the car will not do more than 52 in 5th, I had the body off, cleaned it and put it back on, cleared the code with the diagnostic tool, unfortunately my Dad insist on running the engine for 15 instead of just turning the ignition on for 30 seconds then off for 30 seconds. What would this have done? Also, what do you mean by "drive cycles", please?.
What was the code you had? Performing the start up procedure wrong won't have done anything that you cannot fix, simply disconnect the battery for an hour and reconnect and do it properly.
Drive cycles just means a road test really so the car can relearn all the ECU adaptives. These get cleared with any battery disconnect. Just driving the car will do it.
Hi, would the reset procedure be the same on a 2005 Kangoo? Thanks
If it has the D4F 722 then yes it will be the same.
@@SocketsAndSideburns thanks, it looks the same. I will check the engine number.
@@SocketsAndSideburns it’s a df4 730 I think. Looks very similar to the one in your video.
Hi, today when I turned on my ignition (same model) there were vibrations in the engine and the engine light on the dash was flashing. Would this be the coil pack?
The vibrations will be the engine misfiring most likely. The flashing engine light is "exhaust gas monitoring" likely set off by a large amount of fuel in the exhaust. You will need to get a code reader and see what codes are set.
could you tell me the colors of the throttle wires, thanks in order thank you
HI, very good video. My car is DF4 728 similar to DF4 722. I have a question, i clean the throttle body and perform the calibration procedure. When I turned it on, everything was normal, it started to warm up and lowered the revolutions to less than 1000. But after driving for a while, the revolutions did not drop below 1800 with the car stopped. I don't think it's an air leak because when turn it on and wait for it to warm up the RPMs drop from 1500 cold to less than 1000 when warn. Any idea? Thanks you very much
Did you disconnect the battery before cleaning the throttle body? This is a necessary step initiate the relearn.
Thank you very much for responding. When i clean it, do not disconnect the battery. When testing it, it did not regulate the RPM well, I realized that the calibration was missing. I unplugged the battery for 8 hours, then turned the ignition on, wait 30 seconds, turned off another 30 seconds, then started normal, and the RPM started at 1500 cold then dropped to less than 1000 when warm. But after driving for a while the RPM went up to 2000 . Would it be necessary to do the calibration again?
Was anything like this problem present before you cleaned the throttle body?
I would try to calibrate again. If not you may need to look at live data to see what is changing to cause this RPM spike.
Before it had loss of power at more than 2000 RPM, for which the throttle body was cleaned. I calibrated it again and it's still the same. I'm going to connect a scanner p to see the problem. Thank you very much for the help. Excellent videos.
No problem. Let us know how it goes.
After cleaning the throttle body, does it need to be configured for ECU by
OBDII device?
No. Just follow the relearn procedure in the video.
Thank you very much for the video.
My wife's 08 Sandero with the same throttle body let her down last week. Unfortunately she was 300km from home, alone and it was a Sunday. The ADAC (German AA) man told her he could reset the error codes to get the car out of limp mode and she could chance driving home but she was alone and had a 3 hour drive in snowy conditions ahead of her so she opted to leave the car there and take a train. Luckily she has ADAC Plus Membership and they recovered the car back to here yesterday for no charge. The error codes the ADAC read out are for the throttle body so I whipped it off and gave it a good clean as a first step. There was what looked like factory applied dielectric grease in the wiring connector which seemed to have hardened a bit. I decided to clean the connector out with contact cleaner. Let's see what happens next. Will I need to clear those throttle body and Lambda sensor codes (probably a side-effect of the throttle body issue) p0638 p0120 respectively or will they self clear after a few starts? If the cleaning doesn't help what would your next step be? A replacement Pierburg throttle body is €137 so if there's something else I can try before leaping straight to that I'm all ears. I absolutely love your channel by the way. A really excellent way of making videos with no shortcuts or skipped stuff. A pleasure to watch.
Firstly thankyou for the support. I'm happy you are enjoying the channel.
I have some questions.
You mention about a lambda sensor code? What is that code as the ones you list are P0638 and P0120 which are throttle body or accelerator pedal related.
Also the grease you say hardened, typically grease will only harden in high temperature environments. Dielectric greases are usually silicone based and don't harden, I'm hoping it isn't sealant or something, if you owned it since new then it must be factory but there should really be no need for anything in the connector as they have good weatherpacks in them. This would be my first port of call as its an obvious issue... definitely make sure you got it all out.
I would definitely clear the code either way, that will reset the fuel trims and anything else that may have been thrown out.
What I would do next is to watch the throttle position on live data in relation to how much the accelerator pedal is depressed (this can be done with ignition on engine off) also watch the pedal position tracks. There is lots of information available on how to understand the data. You can then go from there.
Also... sometimes the pedal plug can get knocked, an easy fix.
Let me know how that goes.
@@SocketsAndSideburns excellent. Thanks a lot for your help. You're right I forgot a code. The ADAC man scanned multiple 0638's, one single 0120 and one single 0136 which is listed as the Lambda sensor on the report. Yeah my wife has owned the car from new so whatever yellowish gunk was in there was from the factory I reckon. The car was never in a garage for running problems. I did replace the TDC sensor a few years back as it had an uneven idle and that seemed to sort it. Since then it's had no running problems. Ok I'll try to clear the code with my cheapo bluetooth OBDII tool and then google the live data stuff to see if the accelerator pedal is doing what it's supposed to. I prefer that than just replacing components. Do the pedal tracks tend to wear on these? It's not a low mileage car anymore, 202,000km on it now.
The P0136 is for sensor 2 which monitors the performance of the cat. Sensor 1 is the one which actually has an effect on engine operation. I wouldn't worry about that code yet.
At 200k plus I'd be amazed to find out your on your first throttle body. They typically don't make 100k... miles that is. The pedals fail a little less frequently but it happens. Also sometimes the wiring connections and looms become corroded even on the new models.
@@SocketsAndSideburns she's on the original TB still but it's 201k km, about 125k miles so it sounds like the TB is due to fail around now. The TB is €160 for a Pierburg one. I don't feel comfortable with the €50-€100 eBay ones from China for such a safety critical component. The pedal assembly costs about half that for a Hella one but it sounds like from what you're saying that we're overdue a TB failure and it's the more likely component (assuming it's not a cabling issue) to be at fault here anyway. Having cleared the codes and taken the car for a decent spin it seems ok, no CEL and feels normal to me, with the exception of a very slightly uneven idle. It's around the correct 500-600rpm when warm but yeah, just slightly uneven. It's not as uneven as it was when I fixed it by replacing the crank position sensor. For the moment we'll keep the car local so I can get it back home should it go into limp mode again and then once the wiring is eliminated as best I can I'll probably replace the TB. I'll hook the OBD scanner up and test the pedal position sensor at the weekend.
Hi would changing the throttle body help with a loss of power and a fault code of the square with a loop through it. It goes into limp mode and has to be restarted. The power goes and limps along thanks
Hello, the fault lamp I believe you mean is just the "electronic fault" indicator. You will need to plug in a code reader to find a more specific direction.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Hi thanks for the reply. It’s at the garage and they have looked at it but apart from telling me there is a problem they don’t know where the problem is. They replaced the accelerator pedal some time ago and it worked for a while but now they are going to replace the throttle body to see if that works.
I would assume if they are going specifically the throttle body they must suspect it. I personally would want a little more than " see if it works" throttle bodies aren't cheap.
Labour for replacement if it is the same engine as on this car should be no more than 1 hour. The throttle body itself is under £150 through my link and under £200 through a well known parts website.
At the 18:15 you didn't refit that connector properly! There is 2 pins in it and you went only over 1 pin. If you compare that connector position at 4:50, you can see the difference. Just wanted to point that out, because I struggled with it. Anyway, thanks for the vid! 🙏
Hello friend I need a little help. I have problem on my 2008 year mk3 Clio 1.2 petrol. When vehicle is parked throttle keeps going up and down to 1000 rpm to 1500 rpm non stop. If comes down than goes under 500 rpm and the motor is stalling. I have replaced the throttle body with new, calibrated and the problems is still there nothing changed. I have changed spark cables too. Thanks
I would watch the live data first. Particularly pay attention to what the lambda sensor is doing.
How long does an engine last?..1.2 16v👍
This engine doesn't have any major weaknesses in its construction or design (Renault are still using this engine block today as the D4F 740) so as with all engines without any real flaws lifespan will depend on how well you maintain it. At the very least get the oil, oil filter and cambelt done in good time.
Most of these end up going to the scrap heap because of engine management issues that people are unable to find or fix for less than the car is worth.
Hello, my clio went to 3000 rpm in idle after 10 minutes of driving. So I cleaned the throttle body and it goes immediately to 3000 rpm even just adter starting it! Does it mean that my valve is not working or does the memory need to learn the min max vslve position?
It shouldn't be doing that at all. You can try disconnecting battery first to reset. If that fails I would look at some live data and watch what the throttle plate is doing also.
I have a problem in my manual transmission, the car revs up without acceleration . It does not stay idle. Cannot neutral the car even at the traffic. Tried replacing a new throttle body, but same issue. Please advise me. Thank you
Checked for any codes? Throttle body can be ruled out just by observing what its doing when the problem occurs.
The extra air is getting in somewhere so if the throttle isn't letting it in then there is a leak after it somewhere.
Hello, I have a clio 2, 2005 petrol... The electronic code keeps coming up and the car doesn't seem to Rev when it's on.. Any suggestions.. Thanks
Best place to start is to read the codes from the ECU.
Hey, I have a quick question. The number of the throttle body currently in my clio is 8200568712B and I'm looking to replace it. Would a throttle body with 8200568712C printed on it be fine to fit onto my car even if the letters are different? Thank you!
I can't say for sure, they look the same if you search the part numbers. Probably best to ask at a Renault dealership if the parts department is friendly.
@@SocketsAndSideburns cheers for the reply mate, just called and they said it will be fine
Ref Renault Megane mk1 1.4i 16v engine..............I am in Portugal with a 2002 renault. I bought it privately and its a really nice car, been well looked after, done 195.000kms. Just one issue I have and cannot get any sensible info from Portuguese garages (apart from you need a new throttle body for €400 + fitting). The only issue is that on start up, the engine revs to around 12-1500rpm and is constant. I dive a few Kms and temp guage is showing normal. But then when I stop the engine is idling between 700rpm and 1500rpm, up and down every second. It wil do this for some time. If I leave the car and then go back to it after 10/15 mins, it will idle perfectly at 750rpm and steady.........but then again a further drive of maybe 10kms and it does the up and down again.I cannot seem to get any real understanding as toi why it is doing this. I do get a faint smell of petrol on th eoutside as if its running on choke or rich. But fuel consumption is about right at 6kms for 100kms at motorway driving. Car runs perfectly OK at all times just idling is the issue.................any ideas??
Firstly I would look for any codes. If there is nothing I would start with checking for a vacuum leak. Then I'd look at live data from the lambda sensor at idle speed.
@@SocketsAndSideburns hi thnks for reply. After i got the car, about a year ago, (only done 5k kms since then), the engine light came on, so I bought a small OBD2 meter which said Rear which suggested the second sensor after the cat......so assumed it was a Cat issue. With that in mind and knowing that the previous owner had only done a lot of town work, I took the car on a long drive, after having removed the code. A month later it came back on. In the meantime it had actually passed the very strict MOT down here. Again removed it, and continued to drive it harder.engine light has never come back on again. Now there re no codes registering. On occasions I do hear a hissing sound from under the dash, but that comes and goes. Brake peddle is fine when driving and goes hard after switching engine off. I can see some info on my small OBD 2 reader but not sure what I am looking at apart from error codes. Would this consistent with a vacuum leak?? Hopefully not the brake servo !!!
Do you have calibrations?
If you mean how do you calibrate the throttle body watch from 19:50 onwards.
Does anyone know if there is another way to reset the throttle position sensor? I’ve tried the 30 seconds on and 30 seconds off reset but still have an intermittent issue where I get a loss of power. Acceleration seems fine if I just touch the pedal gently but if I put more pressure on the car starts to hesitate. If I put my foot to the floor I get a surge forward. It’s a new accelerator pedal and throttle body and I’ve got no eml lights.
I am not aware of another way. I would recommend getting a code reader that can see live data so you can watch the accelerator pedal reading and see if it is sometimes dropping out or behaving strangely.
Is this the same as a throttle valve?
Yes. One and the same.
Hallo
Today i cleaned my throttle body of my 1.6 clio from 2001 (no facelift)
Put the ignition on and of but the idle is stil way to high...
It seems to not calibrating the valve....
Is there a other way to calibrate?
That is a very early Clio. Does it have an electronic throttle body, I believe the early ones were cable operated.
Other than using an advanced scan tool this is the only reset I'm aware of.
@@SocketsAndSideburns i have the 55XR32 Magneti marelli one (i have looked it up via my number plates)
@@SocketsAndSideburns i fixed my car today...gaskits where leaking...
Well done. Vacuum leaks are a commonly missed thing.
Thanks! I have one question if you have a time to answer?
Ask away.
@@SocketsAndSideburns OK! My Clio Campus 2008 1.2 8v lose power when is pressed throttle on start in 1 gear and so on switching each next gear throttle lag 1-2 sec after that works great! In idle not on cold star in very cold conditions below zero Celsius an even rpm. Very strong smell of fuel in the exhaust gases...Where is the problem in air sensor dirty throttle or? I noticed low whistling sound like air leaking... maybe problem is somewhere else?
If you can hear air escaping I would definitely start there. Could be a vacuum of exhaust leak.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Thanks for the answer! Cheers from Croatia ;)
I'm expecting mine to be cleaned today but no idea how much a clean would be. I've had loss of power from the pedal then it suddenly kicks in and jolts u out of nowhere
And violently shakes when idle when it hasn't run for more then a day and check engine light comes on every now and then
I would say an hours labour tops at a good garage if its the same engine as on the vehicle in this video.
I would get the codes checked and see what they are, violent shaking will likely be more than one cylinder misfiring.
Hi , I am looking at a fault on 2008 1.2 clio 3 for a friend who is just 19 who bought the car private and has had no luck with it. It is showing up a throttle range fault P0638. Took off the air filter and the butterfly not opening when accelator pedal pressed 95% of the time. I took off the throttle body and if I shake while holding the butterfly there is something rattling under the black cover. If I put my finger on the black cover and tilt back and forth I can feel something on the inside hitting the cover. Is something rattling /loose under the black cover normal on these, I am thinking not and excess wear inside of a clogged wheel or similar? Thanks Pat
Hey Pat. That is unfortunate for your friend. No there absolutely should not be anything rattling around under the cover. I'm afraid you'll probably be needing a new throttle body. Its probably a piece of gear that has broken off although no way to know for sure without opening it up. I do have a video where I open up a one of these throttle bodies that failed ua-cam.com/video/hHXms2sMpxM/v-deo.html You can get a look inside the cover yourself by drilling the rivets out.
I expect whatever has broken off inside is also jamming the gears. At any rate absolutely don't drive it like that until you find out what's broken off of have fitted a new one.
Good luck and let me know how you get on.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Thanks for your advice, if he buys a new one as hard to get a second hand one as may have similar issues do I just follow ur procedure for to tie/adapt the throttle body to the car or do you need to bring to renault to load software to the new throttle body?
Its always best to get a new one if its in budget. Second hand ones can and do come already failed.
Yes just follow the procedure, the one I give is in Renaults own workshop manual for the Clio Mk3.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Thanks for your help, I got a second hand throttle body and pedal from a crashed 2007. Put in the throttle body and pedal, trained thr throttle body as per procedure and drove perfect for 15miles if you turn off the car for 15mins it goes back into limp mode but no codes. If you leave off the negative lead for a few hours and put back it starts and drives perfectly again. Any ideas of cause or have you seen similar as very weird? Thanks Pat
That is odd. Especially limp mode with no codes. If this wasn't present before and now is I'd start with the parts changed. Accelerator pedal first, take it out and put old one back and see what happens.
Does it start fine all the time?
Where i can find the place for tps sensor on Renault Clio 2011?tkx
Is it the D4F engine?
@@SocketsAndSideburns yes it's .I fix it .tkx you so much 💐
Sorry for the dumb question, but when you say “turn ignition on for 30 seconds” do you mean the electrics or actually start her up? Lot of people mean different things when they say that. I assume it means engine on, ignition/ignite lol but gotta check
It is not a dumb question. You don't know until you know.
By ignition on I mean electrics... dash lights up and you'll hear fuel pump prime.
If I meant start the engine I would say "start the engine" or something very similar.
On the Clio ignition switch there are 4 positions if you look at the barrel you can see them marked where the key goes in.
1. Stop (St) Everything off and the steering lock will engage if you turn the wheel.
2. Auxiliaries (A) Accessories will run... radio ect.
3. Ignition On (M) All electricals on... fuel prime... vehicle ready to start.
4. Start (D) Engine start.
Hope that helps.
@@SocketsAndSideburns thank you very much, appreciate the response!
Unfortunately this fix didn’t work for my car. Currently waiting for AA to come out and see if they can diagnose what’s wrong with my Clio. At the end of my wits with it, I have the P0638 throttle body fault/performance bank 1 fault code with an intermittent misfire in the drivers side cylinder (4/1? Not sure how french number them). Cleaned contacts & throttle body, replaced throttle body, replaced sparks coil pack and leads, check fuses and relays, cleaned o2 sensor and MAP sensor but nothing
Hopefully they will be able to diagnose the fault
super ,keep doing.....
Thanks for information 👍🙂
You are welcome.
Bonjour et pour une clio 1.2 la 60 cv ? merçi d'avance
No this is different. The 60hp is the 1.2 D7F. Unfortunately I don't have this engine to work on and they are increasingly rare in the UK.
Good job
Hola buen día cómo estás , te hago una consulta, tengo un clio 1.2 16v que le hice la tapa y ayer cuando lo terminamos de armar, lo prendimos, quedó relativamente bien, pero salí a probarlo y al hacer unas 15 cuadras dejo de acelerar, el auto queda prendido regulando pero no acelera, si me pudieras dar una mano con eso a ver qué puede ser te lo agradecería un montón, abrazos, le colocamos el scanner me salió error p0638, p0504 y p0443
Great video mate, I have watched all of your videos and I am going to try this throttle body clean.
I have a very annoying low tickover speed on my Mark 3 1.2 16v tce ... Sometimes it is so slow it's just stops.
I have read that this model is designed to tick over at approximately 650 RPM which is a bit slow.
There is a video on UA-cam with exactly the same problem and the only way to increase the tickover speed is to put the air conditioning on and select speed 1 on the fan I guess this puts more load on the electrical system and allows the brain to increase the tickover slightly faster maybe??
Any thoughts would be appreciated thank you keep doing the videos
ua-cam.com/video/3xI4F04DZHA/v-deo.html
Thanks for the support.
You are correct that all the 1.2 16vs are designed with a relatively low idle speed 650rpm is right. The D4F 740 being the very lowest which is what you should have. The Clio 2 we own will happily idle at 700rpm.
Are there any other symptoms other than low idle and cutting out?
Does it have a low idle when its cold? Through the winter was this problem present or is it new with the summer on the way?
Hesitation on acceleration? Misfires? Fault codes?
When its cutting out is it just a gentle cut out of violent shaking of the engine trying to recover before eventually cutting out?
You can certainly clean the throttle body as a start point.
What's the vehicles service history? If items are nearly due they may be suspect.
Any recent repairs carried out?
Vacuum leak after the throttle body is a possibility also.
If you have access to a scan tool that can read live data it will help a lot, sometimes it can be the only way to catch the cause of low idle on these.
Let me know about the things I've asked and we might be able to narrow it down.
@@SocketsAndSideburns
Hi mate thank you for your reply and your thoughts .... The low idle speed doesn't seem to be linked to a season as it does it all the time. It will start perfect and run faster until the engine has warmed up, but then for instance if I come to a traffic light it normally slows down too much no shaking etc...and stops it doesn't vary speed i.e. 'Hunt' etc.
I was a mechanic myself in my youth in the days when you could just turn a screw to get your idle speed right!! so I'm not that proficient with the technical stuff off today??- I have changed the coil pack and plugs before as this is a favourite, but I will test the coil pack as you have shown in your you're another video.
I occasionally get an engine light flashing but it goes away while driving normally. I have a basic OBD reader and this has picked up a random misfire at times?
I think I will give it a service at the weekend clean the throttle body first
And map sensor (is there a test for the map Sensor?) ...and go from there.
I will let you know if I make any progress thanks again , loving your in-depth videos 😉
From what you are describing it would seem the car is only doing this when it is in closed loop fuelling.
For me the first thing I'd be doing is watching the Lambda sensors voltage graph but unfortunately you'll need live data for that.
Does your code reader tell you which cylinder or cylinders is causing the miss?
If it does that may help point towards a more likely cause.
I'm glad you are enjoying the channel.
@@SocketsAndSideburns hi , thanks for that - I must admit I had to Google "closed loop fueling" but I do understand it now 😉... Code indicated random misfire not a certain cylinder ? It does smell a little 'rich' sometimes although spark plug colour fine.
The Lambada Sensor is easily accessible so I think I'll swap it out first 😀 but will also do clean and service while I'm in there . Cheers - I'll let you know the outcome . 😉
@@seanwhatford did you have any joy with your idling problem? I have a Clio 3 that idles roughly when warmed up too. Doesn't cut out though, just a rough idle.
I have a serious problem with this car, I'm from Brazil
Hello there. What exactly is the problem?
@@SocketsAndSideburns fault p0638
This code can be thrown up by a quite a few causes. Are there any symptoms?
What have you tried so far?
do not repeat what this young man did, never put pressure on the flap from the inside, it is enough to clean it with a spray and a penson. God, he put the screwdriver in the flap. omg
Love your videos.
I have a Twingo 2 2011 with the same engine at I suspect a faulty trottle body. It hard to start and revs up to 3500 rpm ua-cam.com/video/qLeY4DLsBIE/v-deo.html. My scan tool shows the throttle opening to be 21.2 % constantly. No matter if the car is running or just the ignition on. Even with the throttle body off. Also no reaction pressing the gas pedal. I noticed that yours is spring loaded. Mine will not flip back by it self.
Hello, I watched your video... wow.
You mention that the throttle plate does not spring back into the default idle position?
If you watch my video ua-cam.com/video/hHXms2sMpxM/v-deo.html you can see how these throttles work. Specifically the spring back which is mechanical and governed purely by the throttle.
If you remove the throttle body from the car and the plate does not spring back to this default position then that is your problem.
@@SocketsAndSideburns I´ve put in a new throttle body and the car runs again.
I´ve driven it for a couple of hours, but the car has not learned that it has a new TB. When the car is warm it idles at 1400 rpm, and when accelerating at shifting gear, its slow to rev down, when I press the clutch and let go of the gas pedal.
I´ve tried a few TB relearn procedures, but with no luck - any suggestions ?
Did you disconnect the battery when you replaced it?
If not then disconnect the battery wait a few hours then do the relearn again.
The relearn procedure in the video is for all the D4F 722 and 728 Clio's I very much doubt it would be different for the Twingo.
All vacuum pipes reconnected in correct places after throttle change? All gaskets in place?
If that fails it may be that something else is wrong in addition to the throttle fault I would suggest pouring over the live data particularly fuel trims. Assuming the throttle position is responding correctly now of course.
@@SocketsAndSideburns it’s definitely the relearning procedure where I’m missing something. Today I took the old TP apart cleaned it and put it back together. It is now back in the car and everything is normal.
But I want to get the new one running so I will be at it again tomorrow.
By the way, does the procedure you follow come from a Renault workshop manual?.
I am starting to wonder if my D4F 770 from 2011 has to be programmed by a scan tool.
@@SocketsAndSideburns IT WORKS !!. Thank you Mr. Burns.
I must have forgotten to disconnect the battery the first time. Did the process over again this morning and took it for a trip. It’s not quite there yet, but has improved a lot. Earlier it idled at 1400 rpm, now 1000 rpm. The revving up when accelerating and shifting gear is almost gone.
I have a 2001 clio and appears to go into limp mode when the engine revs keep bouncing up and down and I no control over the revs. Could it be the throttle body causing this problem?
Is it the 1.2 16v engine?