Had to get the rest of the shop over to view the Dr. Phil Experience, experience. Now I'm going to be on the lookout where I can try that next on our new UMC-500SS.
Tabs can be so powerful. Since my little machine is so underpowered, large through-pockets in materials like aluminium are just silly time consuming. To get around this, I do a multiple depth 2D contour slot with tabs, then go over them to make them as thin as possible. Then I can manually remove the piece of stock and continue with a finish pass to remove the evidence. Can’t wait to get some 5-axis in my life, will be a while yet but at least the future seems bright.
We do most of our stuff with tabs and cages. Its really good for having multiple parts from one bit of material, and especially efficient if your just leaving the machine to run overnight. It also make it easy to machine as you can use datum bands/holes to clock in or dowel holes to flip on fixture and easily clamp the material in a way in which the clamps are not at risk of being hit by the tool. If you use a 3 axis method you can get the tabs really thin and if the parts in the air you can just use car body filler to stop it vibrating. Be careful using a cage with materials that bow as when you detag it you may find the part bows due to the stress being released when it's detailed. A good way to get round it is to use a spud (just a solid cylinder with tapped hole either side). This allows you to bolt the part down and flip over for second ops easily but does require a slave plate with holes. Once roughed out you can undo the bolts a bit to allow the material to bow and then put shim under the spuds and bolt it down so your clamping in its natural position instead of clamping any bow out and having it come back when you unbolt it
If there's one thing I like seeing, when it comes to tabs. Is that I don't want to rely on using a bandsaw to remove them. Because it could be down for any reason. The tab should be thin enough to break the part free, and then throw the excess stock in the bin. Done. Using a bandsaw takes time, risks cutting the part (because mistakes can and will happen), and more importantly takes time from your cycle to deburr.
Great video!! Definitely going to have to try the hot glue method.. I am actually working on 3 proto type parts this week that have 10 planes to work from. So I made a fixture that I will bolt to the remaining stock kinda like the Dr phil part. But because they are one off prototype parts I'd rather not spend the extra time making the fixtures. And I think the hot glue would definitely work. I have already made 2 of the fixtures for the 2 harder parts, I am going to give it a whirl on the 3rd!!! Thanks again great video.
Instead of defining both the width and the half-width of the tab thickness, you can just draw a centerline that connects opposite corners. Then create a coincident relationship between the midpoint of the centerline and the center point of the part face. You never have to remember to update the half-width dimension.
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Or instead of drawing sketches. Use origo as bottom reference with half tab thickness offset. Of course, it only works if you have some kind of assembly with workholding and workpiece where everything sits with origo in the center. in MY oppinion thats what every sane machinist will do instead of this new "manufacture model"-stuff, I have a template with all my vises joined to a stock-component. (thanks for the idea Rob Lockwood) Customer sends step-file, I open it in fusion, adjust "stupidness" (like 6mm holes for a M6 thread), add chamfers/bevels to vertical sharp edges. Then open upp my master-file. save as "MFG-partname", import part, break link and delete the original
I got half way through this before I realized my playback speed was .75 and I was like man, he sounds depressed today. Talking like normal human speed, normal enthusiasm level xD
Great video! I have been doing this for a long time, but I still learned a lot. What do you think the farthest it is reasonable to have the part sticking out from self centering vise jaws? I have a AL part 5" x 2" that is 9" long. If I clamp on the 2" width it will be sticking out from vise approx 10". Do you think that will be rigid enough at the end to machine?
Had to get the rest of the shop over to view the Dr. Phil Experience, experience. Now I'm going to be on the lookout where I can try that next on our new UMC-500SS.
Always very interessting to see the possibilities of 5axis cnc's
Now THIS is where the fun begins!
Tabs can be so powerful. Since my little machine is so underpowered, large through-pockets in materials like aluminium are just silly time consuming. To get around this, I do a multiple depth 2D contour slot with tabs, then go over them to make them as thin as possible. Then I can manually remove the piece of stock and continue with a finish pass to remove the evidence.
Can’t wait to get some 5-axis in my life, will be a while yet but at least the future seems bright.
Is it really so wrong to want to watch this channel just for John’s infectious, positive personality? 😏
Awesome demonstration and teaching the techniques, Thanks John
We do most of our stuff with tabs and cages. Its really good for having multiple parts from one bit of material, and especially efficient if your just leaving the machine to run overnight. It also make it easy to machine as you can use datum bands/holes to clock in or dowel holes to flip on fixture and easily clamp the material in a way in which the clamps are not at risk of being hit by the tool. If you use a 3 axis method you can get the tabs really thin and if the parts in the air you can just use car body filler to stop it vibrating. Be careful using a cage with materials that bow as when you detag it you may find the part bows due to the stress being released when it's detailed. A good way to get round it is to use a spud (just a solid cylinder with tapped hole either side). This allows you to bolt the part down and flip over for second ops easily but does require a slave plate with holes. Once roughed out you can undo the bolts a bit to allow the material to bow and then put shim under the spuds and bolt it down so your clamping in its natural position instead of clamping any bow out and having it come back when you unbolt it
Завораживающее зрелище - работа станка.
If there's one thing I like seeing, when it comes to tabs. Is that I don't want to rely on using a bandsaw to remove them. Because it could be down for any reason. The tab should be thin enough to break the part free, and then throw the excess stock in the bin. Done. Using a bandsaw takes time, risks cutting the part (because mistakes can and will happen), and more importantly takes time from your cycle to deburr.
Great video!! Definitely going to have to try the hot glue method.. I am actually working on 3 proto type parts this week that have 10 planes to work from. So I made a fixture that I will bolt to the remaining stock kinda like the Dr phil part. But because they are one off prototype parts I'd rather not spend the extra time making the fixtures. And I think the hot glue would definitely work. I have already made 2 of the fixtures for the 2 harder parts, I am going to give it a whirl on the 3rd!!! Thanks again great video.
when are you going to continue work on johnny five?
I have the same question
Very good video , love the detail. Thank you
Instead of defining both the width and the half-width of the tab thickness, you can just draw a centerline that connects opposite corners. Then create a coincident relationship between the midpoint of the centerline and the center point of the part face. You never have to remember to update the half-width dimension.
Or instead of drawing sketches. Use origo as bottom reference with half tab thickness offset.
Of course, it only works if you have some kind of assembly with workholding and workpiece where everything sits with origo in the center.
in MY oppinion thats what every sane machinist will do instead of this new "manufacture model"-stuff,
I have a template with all my vises joined to a stock-component. (thanks for the idea Rob Lockwood)
Customer sends step-file, I open it in fusion, adjust "stupidness" (like 6mm holes for a M6 thread), add chamfers/bevels to vertical sharp edges.
Then open upp my master-file. save as "MFG-partname", import part, break link and delete the original
I got half way through this before I realized my playback speed was .75 and I was like man, he sounds depressed today. Talking like normal human speed, normal enthusiasm level xD
Great video! I have been doing this for a long time, but I still learned a lot. What do you think the farthest it is reasonable to have the part sticking out from self centering vise jaws? I have a AL part 5" x 2" that is 9" long. If I clamp on the 2" width it will be sticking out from vise approx 10". Do you think that will be rigid enough at the end to machine?
Great informative video
One thing I dont really understand: how do you cut the tab-remainings from the part to be as good as the other areas?
Please share the models which you had explained. with fixtures and your workholding strategy model, please
Great video.. thanks...
Everything is great .
how do we find a machine shop that has a 5 axis CNC Mill machine if you have a complicated part to be made?
RIP Johnny 5
I now see why material prices are skyrocketing so many people have 5 axis machines. :-)
Where is Johnny 5?
💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
#blush
Why bother making complex tabs for such small parts that could easily be cut with a wire EDM