Dual Quads For Street And Strip
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- Nothing beats multiple carburetors for looks and image. But if you pick the right parts and tune them correctly, nothing can beat their potential for making ultimate N/A power.
Here's the first of two videos with our friend and multi carb wizard Andy Wood on getting your quads set up and running hard.
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“8 cylinders, 8 barrels, no waiting...” 😎
Yep ture 👍
Nothing but Fun!
The legendary David Visard gets a mention. Awesome
In case you didn't know...here's a link to Dave Vizard Performance on yt. Seems his old instructional videos are being posted. :-)
ua-cam.com/users/marvingvx1
David Visard, was he the guy that tuned four Webers on a small block Chevy pickup and got crazy good all around numbers?
@@aussiebloke609 He has a channel as well.. David Vizard Performance great mentor and more importantly friend!
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage Lucky you. Never had the chance to meet the legend, but always loved his work on the SBC (and more importantly to me, the A-series BMC engine.) Seems like a great guy. :-)
@@aussiebloke609 He is a super great guy and he took me under his wing over 15 years ago and I've been his sidekick ever since.. lived and learned from the Dyno to the track... If you go to his channel I'm in his first episode talking about none other than Tunnel Rams..lol
The Chrysler engineer's knew what works best.
This is excellent information. I just switched my 468" big block Chevy from a 850 double pumper and air gap to a tunnel ram with dual 750 double pumpers. Took awhile to tune, but now it has every but as good drivability as the single carb and get the same gas mileage, but has considerably more power from 1800 rpm all the way to the top. The torque gain was nothing less than impressive (actually shocking).
It's hard to get good information on dual fours and tunnel rams on the internet- everybody says can't use a tunnel ram on the street and the only work for high rpm racing engines, which is exactly the opposite of my experience. This video confirms everything I have learned thru the experience of using a dual four tunnel ram. Tunnel rams kickass.
Never miss a good opportunity to: Shut up and listen
I had a Holley 4 barrel 850cfm double pumper on my 351C engine in my 1972 Mercury Montego. Went to Weiland Tunnel- Ram and 2 Holley 450cfm carbs on my 351C. The carbs worked perfect out of the box. Minor air-fuel adjustment. Looked better in that big engine compartment. One turn of the key, starts like Fuel-Injection. Nice.
Great guest to have on the show. 👍
I have several of David Vizzar's books. Great reading.
I have seen some amazing dual quad setups, that just ran great on the street and strip. And yet, carb haters are going to say "carbs are junk, carbs are old technology and dead"..... Carbed engines will keep running with very little fuss, where as an EFI engine can be killed just by damaging a single wire... ask me how I know.......
Perfect timing, got dual wcfb for 283 I'm studying to install.
Excellent talk on carbs, and even better, on DUAL carbs! Thank you Andy & Uncle T!
I'd love to hear what Andy would have to say about dual quads on top of a blower. I realise that that's a whole nother animal.
It's pretty much straight forward just like the tunnel ram. The carbs are a metered air / fuel device and tuning follows basic rules. The main difference is in carburetor size so you don't restrict the blowers ability to pull / push air into the engine
run a centrifugal blower rather than a roots design--that way the boost goes into the carb, enjoys the cooling benefits of the venturi effect, and you don't get the lag inherent in a front mount intercooler. you are limited to the amount of boost where this works, but boost really just measures how much "resistance" the head port is giving anyway--invest in a good head design, less boost is needed to make the same power.
I love engine tech! Some people think it's boring i can't get enough.
I drive a 1965 427 Ford Galaxie....2x4 600 vacuum secondary Holley medium riser...the carbs are set up to act like a 600 mechanical advance double pumper with two extra vacuum secondaries.....you never know it's there until you really put your foot into it.... otherwise it drives like a single four....Ford Racing REALLY knew what they were doing in the 60's...
I really like the 4 down draft Webber manifolds made by Moon manifolds. Shame I can't afford 4 Webber's. Lol.
There are Chinese knock offs out there cheap. You can get 4 48IDA 's for$800. The 48IDF's are half the price. Check Ebay
@@patrickbrown3135 Thanks heaps for the info. I will have a look.
@@patrickbrown3135 but do the parts fit?
That's the problem with Chinese knockoffs.
From what I am seeing from others, they work and fit great. As with the real deal Italian/Spanish Webers, they need to be set up and tuned for your custom application anyway. These carb kits are sold by EMPI for the air-cooled vw market , because of that, I think the commies have to get it right.
@@patrickbrown3135 oh, I knew the tuning and setup was required (and found a guy who knows how!), just wasn't sure if the parts were good.
I mean, the chinese knockoffs of Japanese bikes are so bad that the various Southeast Asian countries don't buy them, despite being 1/10 the cost.
Excellent video, excellent information. I've been arguing for years that you can get great economy with a performance engine, simply because the same principles apply. Every single engine modification to make more power, does so because they make the engine operate more efficiently. The more air you flow, the more fuel you CAN flow, but you don't HAVE TO! If you don't get good mileage out of your hot rod, you simply haven't tuned it right, or you can't keep your foot out of it!
I built a AMC 304 in a 77 Hornet s/w towing a 2000# camper at interstate speeds , went from 9 mph stock to 18.9 rebuilt using a 4 bbl carb, dual plane intake, head work , headers, dual exhaust, and turbo mufflers.
@@richarda996 why do that
I plead innocent to the second count lol
Or you have missmatched parts like the wrong cam, carbs etc. and they don't work well together. An engine is a bunch of systems working together and a missmatch can ruin your whole bowl of soup.
@@jamesford2942 That's a good point, and a problem that's far more common than it should be. People just buy what they think are the "best" parts and jumble them together, often without even considering what they actually want the car to do...
Great, I am building a 2-4 setup on my 355Chev engine using a Edelbrock manifold and AFB Edelbrock carbs. This is to be a retro setup modeled after a setup I ran at least 50 years ago in the same car.
Yea it’s a 39 Ford I have had for 55 years running Cheep Chevrolet motors that fit easily in the engine compartment.
I say cheep because the most I ever paid for a rebuildable core was $10.
The 350 is a 73 4 bolt main forged crank one that was free.
Agree on running engines you get for dirt cheap to free. I've never paid more than $150 for a Pontiac 400 or 455, usually get them free, so easy to make 500hp/550ftlbs with them, cam, lifters, headers and you're there with a 455 running any year of 400 head. Some of the 400 heads require race gas or E85 because they make 11.3:1 or more compression on a 455. With how cheap E85 is, thats what I do, just crank the compression up with small chamber heads and enjoy the torque. The pump gas 455s I built for less than $2000, bored .030 over, balanced, good machine work, but nothing they don't need like honing the mains, make enough grunt with 8.8:1 compression to push a 4100lb 70 GTO into the mid to high 12s with a 2.93 gear behind them. Yep, not a typo, two ninety three. And a stock type converter that stalls around 1900-2100. One of them was built in 1995 and its still good, no ring ridge, no blow by, and it was my daily driver for ten years along with getting raced often.
Getting a cheap or free engine and rebuilding it like Tony does is fun, I simply like to do it with more cubes. Tried it with a $500 sbc 400 short block, put vortec heads on it, and man that thing nickel and dimed me to death, sure the heads are $300 a piece, but then you need all the special stuff that fits them, and suddenly you are over $2500. Compared to my Pontiac 400s its a pooch too, because the valve guides won't let you run more than .465" lift, so that is more machine work and money. If it would stop leaking from a different spot every time I run it, I might be more inclined to like it. Less torque for the same cam timing than my Pontiac 400s, less power everywhere, and the leaks..no wonder RTV is so popular. The LS costs a lot more, but they don't leak. HotRod magazine lied to me saying the vortec heads are cheap power.. would have been less expensive to put some AFRs or Edelbrock heads on it. It might be cracked, the sbc likes to crack things.
For a basic driver you pull out and stuff in the chevy works pretty good. Very easy to find parts, usually not overly expensive because you can find stuff used easy. I had to buy new with the 400 because nobody had parts for it around here. Making the power I get from my Pontiacs with one costs more than I want to bother with. These LS swaps are pricey, doing one on my 76 C10, even using parts from engines I got free its expensive. I like them in my 98 Formula and the 4x4s I run in the winter, so I figure why not the summer truck too? I hope the 6.0 makes decent power, the one in the 99 Silverado 2500 runs pretty good for such a heavy truck. The 76 came to me with a 305 that developed a death rattle, I put a 400 Pontiac in it for about 8 years, then needed that 400 for a GTO build, and put an 86 454 in the truck, man that thing was a gutless pig that drank gas, seriously 4mpg in a 2wd short box half ton. Changing the cam, intake, and probably heads on the rat was going to cost a fortune, so I went LS in it. People have been giving me 5.3s for free lately, with the entire truck. As long as you use all used stock parts they are pretty cheap. Making them run in an older vehicle is going to cost more though, its $700 just to make it run after putting it in, doesn't matter if you run EFI or carb.
Fun stuff to play with though.
I did not mention that all the basic parts for my 2-4s are used, manifold, carbs etc. I did buy new jets etc
@@williamcarey6592 I only bought three manifolds new, out of the 50 or so engines I own. When it comes to Pontiac engines anything other than a single 4 barrel is going to be a used piece, there are some tri power intakes being made, but they get pricey. Used stuff is fun stuff.
@@SweatyFatGuy
I buy lots of used things, some things thou you have to get new like cams and lifters etc.
I always have stretched my dollars by buying used, tools, guns etc.
Even my ex was used.
@@williamcarey6592 my first ex was a used 1974 model, the second ex was a spanking new unused never driven 1982 model. I am from 1969, one of the good years, so I am appreciating in value, but the suspension is worn out and needs rebuilt.
When it comes to cams, bearings, etc, yeah I get all of that new, I see them as consumables. I have a virgin 400 block on a stand, so I am thinking it needs a UT rebuild, rings and bearings with a bit of a hone. Throw some of my 72cc heads on it, a RA IV cam, used springs, new oil pump, stock intake, E85 Qjet, and stuff it in something light. Sounds like a $350 engine that in a 3000lb car should come real close to running 11s with a 3.42 gear.
I want to go 11s in this 72 Ventura for less than $1000... excluding wheels and tires, because hell those alone are a grand. The car itself was free, and its been sitting around for over 20 years now. Its a reason to make videos.
Figure I will do that while I am waiting for the aftermarket block and 4.5" crank kit to show up so I can dump it in something like the 68 LeMans or 65 LeMans gasser with the heads and cam from my street strip toy. Probably the 68 because I can fit a lot more tire under that thing than the 65. Should be over 800ftlbs from 3500 to 5500 with that setup, all motor. Fun times. The reason for that one is to go embarrass people who say Pontiacs will can't run faster than 13s.. lol
Great information there Andy!!👍👍
Thanks UTG for bringing us the video!!👍👍
As a kid I ran a HP 289,Semi High Rise, Headers, and a Holley 700/750 2 Barrel, with a dual point. Total perfect setup for the car, a 1960 Falcon, 3 speed Hurst, and Ford Victoria Rear end. Car weighed 1900 lbs. And a Lincoln 8 tract player :). I ate 340 swingers for lunch. I would give anything to get that car back.
Using a 427 Low Riser dual 652 Holly's will run smoother faster and get better mileage but the 2 inch spacers really woke up the 390 and 428 up . People overlook squirters , pump cams and other little details on Holley carbs . I'm thinking of building a 700 plus hp big cube Fe pump gas engine with aftermarket parts for a 67 Mustang .
He said the magic words...AIR SPEED...
i hope you keep cranking out these vids for future generations to enjoy. great to see old skillls logged so they arnt totallly lost
Yes! Been waiting for Dual Quad discussions. I have an Edelbrock B262 for my Buick 401, learning the hows and whys is helpful. Subbing to Unity Motorsports channel.
Awesome video Uncle Tony! Thanks for sharing this great information! Thanks to Andy also!
Great video. Props to Uncle Tony and Unity Motorsports! I wonder how mild street engine.. say, a 383 stroker or any of the other American v8's would perform with 2 GM 670 cfm TBI units on top of a dual quad manifold. It seems like atomization would be better right off the jump and tuning would be done with a laptop and wideband O2 sensors. I think it would actually be simpler to tune, better drivability and economy and would automatically adjust for ambient temperature and altitude.
Me, about to go to sleep
Sees Uncle Tony post a video
Also me: meh, sleep can wait another 20 minutes..
Really great video. I am sure there are more nuances than this, but very educational. As UT said, they put dual quads on bone stock engines for 65 years and they worked well on the street. But you can't go all Glidden and Allen on your stock 289.
Tonyception: A video, inside a video, inside a video
Andy has another video that digs deep into carb tuning and set-up that is a must watch!
Thanks Tony for getting great info out!
I’ve got a friend with a rat rod and the tunnel ram like 12:00 . He has progressive linkage and refuses to change it and I runs like crap.
I put a bolt in the slotted linkage to lock it and after a little tuning it runs like a beast .
There is a lot to running dual quads than just bolting on a set of carbs. It is like starting new.you have to change your whole set up. You have the man for the knowledge of dual carbs. Thanks for the info,Tony.
Andy Wood is another Master. Thanks UT!
What a coincidence !! Until yesterday, never heard or seen a video of David Vizard. I watched the two videos of the Edelbrock porting (episode 8) and your guest, from Unity MotorSports Garage mentions him. Thanks for all the great videos. Regards.
I like my dual quads on my 318 👍
i run a chevy 468 dual carb tunnel ram i build and tune my own motors , and mine runs exactly like your truck , yes you can tune a carb to run good if you know what your doing, and understand how a carb actually works, most people have it wrong, ive been doing this for over 40 years, since 1980 actually, im still figuring you out for what you really know, so far its not bad,for the most part , you will be able to help a lot of people, im shocked how most people dont know the even the basics on tuning a carb, they know nothing about altitude even more important adjusted altitude which is my guide, not actual altitude, they ask what size carb do i need , and all these people start telling them what they need, altitude figures never get mentioned, amazing, most people have no idea it even matters, but yet call themselves experts. before i tell you what carb YOU NEED ,first lets talk about where you live, those words never get mentioned on any of these online carb discussions.
Used to have a weiand tunnel ram and holley 650's on a 327 in my 1941 super deluxe. I don't know who built the motor, but it was faster than greased lighting, now it's dialed down to a single 650 on a torquer 2. The reason for the change was low speed drivability, I'm definitely learning something watching this.
Somewhat related, as i'm looking into a tunnel ram.....I got a 400 sbc on propane that i'm looking to hop up. In my research looking into tunnel rams and dual quads. I learned that the tow truck guys with the 350 chevys and and 351's in the fords, and the chevy/ford big block guys. Actually preferred tunnel rams and dual carbs for their propane powered trucks. They got better low end power out of the trucks over any regular hi rise or stock style intake with a single carb. And they even got better mileage, one guy supposed picked 4mpg in his 460 big block ford tow truck
Uncle Tony you are the Rush Limbaugh of great practical real world tech! Keep it coming we really appreciate and enjoy your videos. Thanks!
I love old style. No computers. About to do 2 edelbrock avs2 500 dual quads on my 1985 mustang gt. I sold it 27 years ago and my brother happened to see it for sale no engine and was about to be scrapped. It will love again better than ever
You guys did GREAT on that pod Cast!
So much knowledge, much respect from the uk
Everyone over carbs. Engine masters had the perfect test. Tested a 383 SBC that had dynoed around 470 HP. They dynoed with a 650-750-850-950. Most cfm that engine pulled was 617 cfm. The least was about 607. Actually made less HP with the 850/950
Thanks Tony the video has a lot of info that I was wanting to know.
Thank you both! Great info.
Great video Uncle Ton!!!!
Awesome intel, as usual Uncle Tony! What if.....say I was thinking of trying a PAIR of small-block Thermoquads on a low deck tunnel ram. Am I crazy?
I found Andy's channel a good while back doing one of my regular searches for "tunnel ram". He really has that truck dialed in.
Not wrong there U.T.! Happened to run into Mr. 8 Barrel, from Steve Super Tune Vizard, sites. One of the most sort after, missing bits of info, one needed. Won over, when i comes to a Tunnel Ram! Or eight barrel!
i run one to one linkage on a single plane tunnel ram olds 455 with two 600 cfm edelbrocks jetted one stage down with stiff springs and thompson power blast plates with a mild cam and 373 gears. drives great. races great. gets chicks.
Andy is the goto for duel quads
Andy's bumpside Ford causes me to walk around dry humping the air...
HOWdy U-T-G, ... Thanks ANDY,
Thanks for the Education & the THEORY
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
Unity motorsports has a ton of good information on carburetors
Heh, ' stay tuned', I see what he did there...
Very well explained. Thank you.
Thank u for the information gentlemen 👍
Tunnel rams will always make more power fact.
Truth!
Cool info.
I have a dual quad tunnel ram on my 545 ci. SCJ. Pair of Holley 450 cfm made for TR.
From Summit.
Tremic TKO 5 sp.
3:89 gears.
1970 Ford Cobra.
Runs good.
12 mpg.
I just got a avs2 650 i should of got one long time ago i could tell a big difference from the 600 edelbrock half throttle she moves 383 stroker 79 k5
Too bad Andy doesn't post more, his truck is legit.
Stay tuned for more stuff from Unity. It is a balancing act between UA-cam content, a full-time job, and family.
Great info.wonder if you or Andy could do one on 3 deuces? Thanks again,really rocks!
Just worked on a 1970 Hemi Cuda it had the progressive linkage it does work good on the street ......its good not getting into that other carburetor all the time while your cruising
Great stuff!!!!
I like this and I have a 4cyl unmolested Camry.
That's legit.
Can you interview the plugs next, I want to hear their story
That was awesome. Great tech. Thanks for sharing.
15 people dropped their cake
I had a 354 hemi with singel plane 2x4barrel tested with progressive set up and lamba meter worked like a shit & shift over to parallel set up and it worked well
Thanks Andy!
I hope I can remember all this. Thanks
thanks Andy and U.T. good info there.
This is great timing for me cause I’m gonna be throwing together a 440 for a rough 68 Coronet 500 I’m gonna paint flat black and put a red super bee stripe on and I have a set of 660 center squirters I could put on it
I've never tried 2 4's but I've seen many people at the track fighting them. I've always had goodluck with my demon's if I needed alot of fuel.
I love 6 pak on the ole 69 gtx, it’s a trip, 3500 rpm’s all of a sudden you grab your ass and hold on..... the outside carbs kick in off of vacuum for you yunggin’s Lol👍👍👍👍👍
He started it in high gear at 2500 RPM. ... auto with a high stall converter.
What does that prove? I expected it to be a manual trans and it dropping down to 700 RPM or less --chugga chugga chugga.
The irregular firing order of a typical V8 and the weird intake manifolding is what kills most dual quad potential for the street, IMO.
A flat plane crank and an appropriate manifold would fix that--but then your eyes would vibrate out.
I always liked 3x2s for the street.............but dual 4s most like you say are not set up properly
much like the old dominator 3 barrel Holleys ............never knew those to work better then a good 4 barrel..............nice info here in the video....and a Ford man I see
Right on
Besides that they look cool
I have set up dual quads on a few hot rods. Two had tunnel ram and one was cross ram. The tunnel rams were set up with progressive linkage.
The thought is that the rear carb is the primary and the front is the secondary. The primaries of the rear carbs are located near the middle of the plenum and feed all cylinders fairly well at low throttle and RPM. As you open the throttle and tip onto the secondaries of the rear carb the primaries of the front carb begin to open as well. This is like having tri-power carb set up. Fuel is evenly spread across the manifold plenum. At WOT all 8 barrels are open and directly over the intake runners. This is like having stack injection but with the plenum to absorb the reversion pulses.
When you use the tunnel ram with a single 4 barrel you will have the same bias on the cylinders as the dual quads with progressive linkage except that it is the opposite end of the intake. One thing I will say is that you have to have an open plenum rather than having a center pinch between the two halves front to rear.
With the cross ram it it has the two banks separated so you have to run the carbs synced and should use smaller carbs. It worked ok but had a tendency to over fuel the engine.
What is the cost benefit of a multiport fuel injection vs a multi carb set up? It would seem injection would have an advantage.
Just imagine if more hot rod guys had these videos and info in the early 60's. There are formulas as to what cubes, bore size, heads, cam specs, fuel, suggested timing, trans ratios, diff ratios, and vehicle weight that will maximize a build around the build of a street tunnel ram with 2-45
2-450 cfm vaccine secondary carbs. Please could you provide that info?
I'm so Michael Jackson eating popcorn on this video
buick knew what they were doing with dual quads on the 401 and 425......
.
and that engine was NOT a high RPM breather! yet it still wanted the extra air
But what about dual quads versus stack injection? :-)
dual quads? please tell me more?
16 mpg on duel quads, running 11s 🤔must be a lot of highway miles at low speeds ,that's pretty good my 302 injected Windsor wouldn't do that on my late model aussy falcon above 80mph and past Cleveland's ie single holly or Carter 4 barrels probably wouldn't haven't achieved that with any where near that sort of power
Have. A. Nice. Day.....
Very cool !!!!!!!!!!!!! 💪💪💪
Except NASCAR seems to do well with one quad, and a restrictor plate, and many folks running an old cross ram (not the long tube 413 setup, i mean the Max Wedge copies out there by Offy etc) with duals on the street found it sucked--and other old multi carb intakes lost 40 hp to a modern single carb. The issue with a single carb is it isn't an equal distance from all the cylinders--unless its Ford Inline Autolite carb--if you run an intake that fits under the average hood. tune to feed the inboard cylinders, and the outboard run lean, and vice versa--unless you get a custom cam that holds the outboard intake valves open a little longer, but then you run into reversion issues (every time that intake valve closes, the air fuel mixture runs back to the shared plenum and goes to another cylinder, the reason why mechanical fuel injectors tend to have a haze hanging over them at idle--no shared plenum to take away the fuel mix when the intake valve closes).
In the 1950's there was another benefit of a multi carb low riser intake--carbs tended to have a low cfm rating (even the 440 Magnum was like 625 cfm or so, calling its 375 hp rating into question) and so one beat two. But GM replaced its tripower with the 850 Q jet and couldn't find a diff in power output--of course they had a more modern intake design lacking in sharply bent runners etc. The linkage issue is amusing, since Mopar used a vacuum setting that wasn't as gradually responsive as GM's mechanic linkage--you went to pass someone in your Sixer and suddenly you had everything at once, like the early 2.2's with a turbo (by the time you got the pep you needed, you were halfway thru the overtake). Get off the gas and the end carbs slammed shut-at least you weren't relying on your front drum brakes :)
In the days of Pro Street, folks would show up at the street races in a tunnel quad since it was cheaper than a blower and they'd lose money to a stock looking single quad (on a high riser intake with a turtle on the plenum floor and extended runners hiding under emissions equipment that was disconnected) if they agreed to go off the bottle. Of course, the runner size is important--look at the runners on a TPI Chevy, the LT1 that followed it before the LS, and Ford's 5.0 litre pushrod engines. If you straightened any of those intake runners out, you had yourself a tunnel ram--albeit, they were all "dry" intakes, there was no fuel at the plenum end of the intake. but that LT1 intake was as close to a short runner tunnel as you were going to see from the OEM.
no doubt, you can modify race equipment to work on the street...or you can stroke for more cubic inches :)
👈I have the dual Edelbrock 500s kit you can buy from summit on a 406 useing progressive linkage, out of the box I’m getting 12 miles to the gallon in a 1980 regal with a th 400,gear vendors overdrive with 4:11 gears on the hiway, 26 inch tall tire, it’s always ran good, plugs have always looked good also, probably 5 or less mpg hot rodding stop lights, the pedal gets real stiff when your flirting with opening the second carb, kind of lets you know where your at, its fun.
I have an Offy dual quad intake for my Pontiac engines, and an Edelbrock for the 289-302 Windsor Ford. My dad got his 426 wedge 64 Sport Fury with a dual quad set up on it. The Ford and Mopar intakes won't fit the single feed Holleys, so they're stuck with Carter/Edelbrock carbs. I am not a fan of Edelbrock carbs, I like Qjets and Holleys. The Pontiac intake is going on my 65 LeMans gasser, with carb spacers to raise the Holley carbs and velocity stacks above the hood. Eventually I will get a tunnel ram for it, there is only one made today. Still trying to figure out what I will do with the 302 intake, since my Fords are all Cleveland powered. Maybe a T bucket or something.
I'd like to see and hear someone with a dual tunnel ram but with 2 tuned thermoquads 😁
Thanks for the tips
750 brawlers on my 383 and she runs 10.7 at 130 mph. Little confused on progressive not being ideal for tunnel rams. Mine runs superb on street and strip 🤷
6 pack or dual quads on a 1969 HP 440?..thats what im trying to determine for my next build
Six pack is the more iconic on a 440.
But if you're feeling brave, you could do triple quads...
8 > 6
And triple carb setups are notoriously finicky
Dual quad tunnel ram.
That's a tuff 1, but I don't think you can get it wrong! Dual quad's rock and so do 6 pack's! What ever you do you're 440 is going to be awesome! 😎
@@bradoconnor9868 considering what I usually start out with,it can only get better..I'm not rich so my cars I find in the woods or in fields..I saved a charger from being parted out last yr,I put a 1969 383hp in it with a dual plane intake and an edelbrock 750 with mechanical secondaries and it's a God damned torque monster!..recently I found a rotten out 69 plymouth which I'm currently restructuring..managed to find a 440 out of a gtx,unfortunately the intake and carbs were missing,but either way I decided I'm gonna go big or go home,or as far as my limited budget will allow me..the money will be going under the hood,not on a fancy paint job,it's gonna be all business..all go and no show!
The hot rod guides
A friend of mine years ago had a 32 b model with a small block with dual 4s man you could hear those things sucking air and those pipes racking off.....
I have shut up and am listening I put duel quads on my 440 1968 dart GT and it is not quite right have been gathering parts for last two years to make it the ultimate street car. Will watch closely
Could you do a video abot getting the 70s stance, I know there's tons of stuff on the internet, but I want to hear from the professor.
I've tired to explain the two 450cfm Holly's on my edelbrock str5 street tunnel ram with larger plenum 2 4s top. They just don't get it amd say that's too much air amd fuel for that 273 ci, especially bringing that my carbs have mechanic secondary vs a vacuum which would onky give motor what it needs .
Like no being that it's 2 carbs the 450cfm rating on my carbs is based off a 1.5hg pressure drop with 1 carb and having 2 carbs lowers that 1.5 hg numer and carbs because of that, amd will flow less air (cfm) in turn which on my motor worked out to 780cfm if I recall. Ran great but had to tip in slow with throttle and lower speeds had this kind of flat spot. I changed the pump cam for how fast and how long or short the pump shot was when demanding fuel. After changing pump cams it was significantly smoother amd pulled harder without having to work clutch or throttle. Indidnt like a progressive linkage but nknow the 2.94 ratio could have fixed issue going to a 3.9 or higher ratio like the 4.56 I chose later.
Daily drove my car for 8 years with that setup and still runs great. Pump throttle 3 times amd fired right up with. No choke just had to kinda had to kids pulse my foot on peddle for about a minute a slowly lower peddle until idle was good buy by now means difficult. My car being light,4speed and carbs not having any secondary squirters made cabs ideal for smaller ci as well and I tried swapping jets and made no change in mentioned issues or noticeable difference
Now having said all that, you build a 400 plus 340 or stroker 408 those carbs could not be tuned enough for secondarys since they where not double pumper style carbs. And street tunnel ram intake was great as they matched heads in between small and large port head having long runners with a larger opening that tapered dowm so good into port velocity on that lil mopar sb. On anything 450 plua or stroker ide port match intake to head and port top of runners to heads mildly to get enough air in for the larger ci.
Understanding the whole combo cam. Trans car weight and how carb cfm is rated and changed with the pressure drop under carbs is important. Along with limiting or see removing distributors option to advance is the difference between nice driving, smooth throttle transition a lig initial fire up vs a pig from tuning or wrong parts from lack of understanding or listening to the internet arm chair morons that just regurgitate shit they have heard with no actually experience on a setup of duals or a poor performing one saying this sucks but looks cool but know clue why because they car weighs 4200ilbs is auto with low stall and 2.94 rear with 275 60s and often under carbed or not matched carbs unknownly.
Either way do it. 273 at 7200rpm with duals is fantastic sound over a single carb at full song and since done required no constant tuning. A wide band. Would be nice but reading plugs will get ya there cheaper and bettering understanding of what motor is doing or wants
Reading plugs, *if you know how,* is like having an O2 sensor on every cylinder.
You got it... all truth... there is alot of tuning involved but once it is right that sound is like no other once you hit the loud pedal!
Great video.
I’d be interested to know what kind of timing curve would be the best for dual quads/tunnel rams on the street with an occasional blast down the strip.