In case you didn't know...here's a link to Dave Vizard Performance on yt. Seems his old instructional videos are being posted. :-) ua-cam.com/users/marvingvx1
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage Lucky you. Never had the chance to meet the legend, but always loved his work on the SBC (and more importantly to me, the A-series BMC engine.) Seems like a great guy. :-)
@@aussiebloke609 He is a super great guy and he took me under his wing over 15 years ago and I've been his sidekick ever since.. lived and learned from the Dyno to the track... If you go to his channel I'm in his first episode talking about none other than Tunnel Rams..lol
I had a Holley 4 barrel 850cfm double pumper on my 351C engine in my 1972 Mercury Montego. Went to Weiland Tunnel- Ram and 2 Holley 450cfm carbs on my 351C. The carbs worked perfect out of the box. Minor air-fuel adjustment. Looked better in that big engine compartment. One turn of the key, starts like Fuel-Injection. Nice.
This is excellent information. I just switched my 468" big block Chevy from a 850 double pumper and air gap to a tunnel ram with dual 750 double pumpers. Took awhile to tune, but now it has every but as good drivability as the single carb and get the same gas mileage, but has considerably more power from 1800 rpm all the way to the top. The torque gain was nothing less than impressive (actually shocking). It's hard to get good information on dual fours and tunnel rams on the internet- everybody says can't use a tunnel ram on the street and the only work for high rpm racing engines, which is exactly the opposite of my experience. This video confirms everything I have learned thru the experience of using a dual four tunnel ram. Tunnel rams kickass.
I drive a 1965 427 Ford Galaxie....2x4 600 vacuum secondary Holley medium riser...the carbs are set up to act like a 600 mechanical advance double pumper with two extra vacuum secondaries.....you never know it's there until you really put your foot into it.... otherwise it drives like a single four....Ford Racing REALLY knew what they were doing in the 60's...
As a kid I ran a HP 289,Semi High Rise, Headers, and a Holley 700/750 2 Barrel, with a dual point. Total perfect setup for the car, a 1960 Falcon, 3 speed Hurst, and Ford Victoria Rear end. Car weighed 1900 lbs. And a Lincoln 8 tract player :). I ate 340 swingers for lunch. I would give anything to get that car back.
I’ve got a friend with a rat rod and the tunnel ram like 12:00 . He has progressive linkage and refuses to change it and I runs like crap. I put a bolt in the slotted linkage to lock it and after a little tuning it runs like a beast .
There is a lot to running dual quads than just bolting on a set of carbs. It is like starting new.you have to change your whole set up. You have the man for the knowledge of dual carbs. Thanks for the info,Tony.
Excellent video, excellent information. I've been arguing for years that you can get great economy with a performance engine, simply because the same principles apply. Every single engine modification to make more power, does so because they make the engine operate more efficiently. The more air you flow, the more fuel you CAN flow, but you don't HAVE TO! If you don't get good mileage out of your hot rod, you simply haven't tuned it right, or you can't keep your foot out of it!
I built a AMC 304 in a 77 Hornet s/w towing a 2000# camper at interstate speeds , went from 9 mph stock to 18.9 rebuilt using a 4 bbl carb, dual plane intake, head work , headers, dual exhaust, and turbo mufflers.
Or you have missmatched parts like the wrong cam, carbs etc. and they don't work well together. An engine is a bunch of systems working together and a missmatch can ruin your whole bowl of soup.
@@jamesford2942 That's a good point, and a problem that's far more common than it should be. People just buy what they think are the "best" parts and jumble them together, often without even considering what they actually want the car to do...
It's pretty much straight forward just like the tunnel ram. The carbs are a metered air / fuel device and tuning follows basic rules. The main difference is in carburetor size so you don't restrict the blowers ability to pull / push air into the engine
run a centrifugal blower rather than a roots design--that way the boost goes into the carb, enjoys the cooling benefits of the venturi effect, and you don't get the lag inherent in a front mount intercooler. you are limited to the amount of boost where this works, but boost really just measures how much "resistance" the head port is giving anyway--invest in a good head design, less boost is needed to make the same power.
I have seen some amazing dual quad setups, that just ran great on the street and strip. And yet, carb haters are going to say "carbs are junk, carbs are old technology and dead"..... Carbed engines will keep running with very little fuss, where as an EFI engine can be killed just by damaging a single wire... ask me how I know.......
Using a 427 Low Riser dual 652 Holly's will run smoother faster and get better mileage but the 2 inch spacers really woke up the 390 and 428 up . People overlook squirters , pump cams and other little details on Holley carbs . I'm thinking of building a 700 plus hp big cube Fe pump gas engine with aftermarket parts for a 67 Mustang .
Yes! Been waiting for Dual Quad discussions. I have an Edelbrock B262 for my Buick 401, learning the hows and whys is helpful. Subbing to Unity Motorsports channel.
What a coincidence !! Until yesterday, never heard or seen a video of David Vizard. I watched the two videos of the Edelbrock porting (episode 8) and your guest, from Unity MotorSports Garage mentions him. Thanks for all the great videos. Regards.
Great video. Props to Uncle Tony and Unity Motorsports! I wonder how mild street engine.. say, a 383 stroker or any of the other American v8's would perform with 2 GM 670 cfm TBI units on top of a dual quad manifold. It seems like atomization would be better right off the jump and tuning would be done with a laptop and wideband O2 sensors. I think it would actually be simpler to tune, better drivability and economy and would automatically adjust for ambient temperature and altitude.
Really great video. I am sure there are more nuances than this, but very educational. As UT said, they put dual quads on bone stock engines for 65 years and they worked well on the street. But you can't go all Glidden and Allen on your stock 289.
From what I am seeing from others, they work and fit great. As with the real deal Italian/Spanish Webers, they need to be set up and tuned for your custom application anyway. These carb kits are sold by EMPI for the air-cooled vw market , because of that, I think the commies have to get it right.
@@patrickbrown3135 oh, I knew the tuning and setup was required (and found a guy who knows how!), just wasn't sure if the parts were good. I mean, the chinese knockoffs of Japanese bikes are so bad that the various Southeast Asian countries don't buy them, despite being 1/10 the cost.
Great, I am building a 2-4 setup on my 355Chev engine using a Edelbrock manifold and AFB Edelbrock carbs. This is to be a retro setup modeled after a setup I ran at least 50 years ago in the same car. Yea it’s a 39 Ford I have had for 55 years running Cheep Chevrolet motors that fit easily in the engine compartment. I say cheep because the most I ever paid for a rebuildable core was $10. The 350 is a 73 4 bolt main forged crank one that was free.
Agree on running engines you get for dirt cheap to free. I've never paid more than $150 for a Pontiac 400 or 455, usually get them free, so easy to make 500hp/550ftlbs with them, cam, lifters, headers and you're there with a 455 running any year of 400 head. Some of the 400 heads require race gas or E85 because they make 11.3:1 or more compression on a 455. With how cheap E85 is, thats what I do, just crank the compression up with small chamber heads and enjoy the torque. The pump gas 455s I built for less than $2000, bored .030 over, balanced, good machine work, but nothing they don't need like honing the mains, make enough grunt with 8.8:1 compression to push a 4100lb 70 GTO into the mid to high 12s with a 2.93 gear behind them. Yep, not a typo, two ninety three. And a stock type converter that stalls around 1900-2100. One of them was built in 1995 and its still good, no ring ridge, no blow by, and it was my daily driver for ten years along with getting raced often. Getting a cheap or free engine and rebuilding it like Tony does is fun, I simply like to do it with more cubes. Tried it with a $500 sbc 400 short block, put vortec heads on it, and man that thing nickel and dimed me to death, sure the heads are $300 a piece, but then you need all the special stuff that fits them, and suddenly you are over $2500. Compared to my Pontiac 400s its a pooch too, because the valve guides won't let you run more than .465" lift, so that is more machine work and money. If it would stop leaking from a different spot every time I run it, I might be more inclined to like it. Less torque for the same cam timing than my Pontiac 400s, less power everywhere, and the leaks..no wonder RTV is so popular. The LS costs a lot more, but they don't leak. HotRod magazine lied to me saying the vortec heads are cheap power.. would have been less expensive to put some AFRs or Edelbrock heads on it. It might be cracked, the sbc likes to crack things. For a basic driver you pull out and stuff in the chevy works pretty good. Very easy to find parts, usually not overly expensive because you can find stuff used easy. I had to buy new with the 400 because nobody had parts for it around here. Making the power I get from my Pontiacs with one costs more than I want to bother with. These LS swaps are pricey, doing one on my 76 C10, even using parts from engines I got free its expensive. I like them in my 98 Formula and the 4x4s I run in the winter, so I figure why not the summer truck too? I hope the 6.0 makes decent power, the one in the 99 Silverado 2500 runs pretty good for such a heavy truck. The 76 came to me with a 305 that developed a death rattle, I put a 400 Pontiac in it for about 8 years, then needed that 400 for a GTO build, and put an 86 454 in the truck, man that thing was a gutless pig that drank gas, seriously 4mpg in a 2wd short box half ton. Changing the cam, intake, and probably heads on the rat was going to cost a fortune, so I went LS in it. People have been giving me 5.3s for free lately, with the entire truck. As long as you use all used stock parts they are pretty cheap. Making them run in an older vehicle is going to cost more though, its $700 just to make it run after putting it in, doesn't matter if you run EFI or carb. Fun stuff to play with though.
@@williamcarey6592 I only bought three manifolds new, out of the 50 or so engines I own. When it comes to Pontiac engines anything other than a single 4 barrel is going to be a used piece, there are some tri power intakes being made, but they get pricey. Used stuff is fun stuff.
@@SweatyFatGuy I buy lots of used things, some things thou you have to get new like cams and lifters etc. I always have stretched my dollars by buying used, tools, guns etc. Even my ex was used.
@@williamcarey6592 my first ex was a used 1974 model, the second ex was a spanking new unused never driven 1982 model. I am from 1969, one of the good years, so I am appreciating in value, but the suspension is worn out and needs rebuilt. When it comes to cams, bearings, etc, yeah I get all of that new, I see them as consumables. I have a virgin 400 block on a stand, so I am thinking it needs a UT rebuild, rings and bearings with a bit of a hone. Throw some of my 72cc heads on it, a RA IV cam, used springs, new oil pump, stock intake, E85 Qjet, and stuff it in something light. Sounds like a $350 engine that in a 3000lb car should come real close to running 11s with a 3.42 gear. I want to go 11s in this 72 Ventura for less than $1000... excluding wheels and tires, because hell those alone are a grand. The car itself was free, and its been sitting around for over 20 years now. Its a reason to make videos. Figure I will do that while I am waiting for the aftermarket block and 4.5" crank kit to show up so I can dump it in something like the 68 LeMans or 65 LeMans gasser with the heads and cam from my street strip toy. Probably the 68 because I can fit a lot more tire under that thing than the 65. Should be over 800ftlbs from 3500 to 5500 with that setup, all motor. Fun times. The reason for that one is to go embarrass people who say Pontiacs will can't run faster than 13s.. lol
Used to have a weiand tunnel ram and holley 650's on a 327 in my 1941 super deluxe. I don't know who built the motor, but it was faster than greased lighting, now it's dialed down to a single 650 on a torquer 2. The reason for the change was low speed drivability, I'm definitely learning something watching this.
Somewhat related, as i'm looking into a tunnel ram.....I got a 400 sbc on propane that i'm looking to hop up. In my research looking into tunnel rams and dual quads. I learned that the tow truck guys with the 350 chevys and and 351's in the fords, and the chevy/ford big block guys. Actually preferred tunnel rams and dual carbs for their propane powered trucks. They got better low end power out of the trucks over any regular hi rise or stock style intake with a single carb. And they even got better mileage, one guy supposed picked 4mpg in his 460 big block ford tow truck
I love old style. No computers. About to do 2 edelbrock avs2 500 dual quads on my 1985 mustang gt. I sold it 27 years ago and my brother happened to see it for sale no engine and was about to be scrapped. It will love again better than ever
Not wrong there U.T.! Happened to run into Mr. 8 Barrel, from Steve Super Tune Vizard, sites. One of the most sort after, missing bits of info, one needed. Won over, when i comes to a Tunnel Ram! Or eight barrel!
i run a chevy 468 dual carb tunnel ram i build and tune my own motors , and mine runs exactly like your truck , yes you can tune a carb to run good if you know what your doing, and understand how a carb actually works, most people have it wrong, ive been doing this for over 40 years, since 1980 actually, im still figuring you out for what you really know, so far its not bad,for the most part , you will be able to help a lot of people, im shocked how most people dont know the even the basics on tuning a carb, they know nothing about altitude even more important adjusted altitude which is my guide, not actual altitude, they ask what size carb do i need , and all these people start telling them what they need, altitude figures never get mentioned, amazing, most people have no idea it even matters, but yet call themselves experts. before i tell you what carb YOU NEED ,first lets talk about where you live, those words never get mentioned on any of these online carb discussions.
i run one to one linkage on a single plane tunnel ram olds 455 with two 600 cfm edelbrocks jetted one stage down with stiff springs and thompson power blast plates with a mild cam and 373 gears. drives great. races great. gets chicks.
Everyone over carbs. Engine masters had the perfect test. Tested a 383 SBC that had dynoed around 470 HP. They dynoed with a 650-750-850-950. Most cfm that engine pulled was 617 cfm. The least was about 607. Actually made less HP with the 850/950
Cool info. I have a dual quad tunnel ram on my 545 ci. SCJ. Pair of Holley 450 cfm made for TR. From Summit. Tremic TKO 5 sp. 3:89 gears. 1970 Ford Cobra. Runs good. 12 mpg.
I had a 354 hemi with singel plane 2x4barrel tested with progressive set up and lamba meter worked like a shit & shift over to parallel set up and it worked well
Great video. I’d be interested to know what kind of timing curve would be the best for dual quads/tunnel rams on the street with an occasional blast down the strip.
Just worked on a 1970 Hemi Cuda it had the progressive linkage it does work good on the street ......its good not getting into that other carburetor all the time while your cruising
Ok, uncle, the subject is 3 barrel carbs, Carter or Holly, what years and your thoughts about using them on a tunnel ram 400 chevy??? thanks keep making them and we will watch them. TSN
👈I have the dual Edelbrock 500s kit you can buy from summit on a 406 useing progressive linkage, out of the box I’m getting 12 miles to the gallon in a 1980 regal with a th 400,gear vendors overdrive with 4:11 gears on the hiway, 26 inch tall tire, it’s always ran good, plugs have always looked good also, probably 5 or less mpg hot rodding stop lights, the pedal gets real stiff when your flirting with opening the second carb, kind of lets you know where your at, its fun.
This is great timing for me cause I’m gonna be throwing together a 440 for a rough 68 Coronet 500 I’m gonna paint flat black and put a red super bee stripe on and I have a set of 660 center squirters I could put on it
@@bradoconnor9868 considering what I usually start out with,it can only get better..I'm not rich so my cars I find in the woods or in fields..I saved a charger from being parted out last yr,I put a 1969 383hp in it with a dual plane intake and an edelbrock 750 with mechanical secondaries and it's a God damned torque monster!..recently I found a rotten out 69 plymouth which I'm currently restructuring..managed to find a 440 out of a gtx,unfortunately the intake and carbs were missing,but either way I decided I'm gonna go big or go home,or as far as my limited budget will allow me..the money will be going under the hood,not on a fancy paint job,it's gonna be all business..all go and no show!
Ok, I’m one of the less mechanical guys but I do love the cars and the looks of the duel quads. I have a 66 Impala 327 4 sp car with a 308 gear. It’s the 275 ho version. The car runs great and is very cool but I wish to up the coolness of the ride. I just picked up a GM dual quad intake from a 61 Vette, Uncle old car parts. I would like to run it on my 66. Can you advise if the Holley 390 CFMs would be a good fit? How about the linkage. Im thinking you are saying one to one but not sure. I will likely change the gear to a 373 and add a small hydraulic cam but maybe not. Will it work completely stock?
I have a 427 SBC single four barrel that dyno'd at 565 Hp and 565 Torq. I'm thinking of going with a dual quad cross ram set up. Could you recommend the carb and manifold for this ? Thank you.
Hello Tony. I have a few questions about transmissions. I wanted to attach them to a transmission video. I looked through your video list twice and to my surprise, you don't have one. Yes, transmissions are a child of another god we don't talk to much. I would love to hear your opinion of them. The good, the bad, and the ugly. Also, I heard of a guy once. He put a 1500 stall torque converter in a 350 Camaro. Legend has it he got 35 mpg out of it. If/when I get a Camaro I would want to drive it. Not just in circles. How would that work? Is it viable? Is it stupid? I would love to hear your opinion.
UTG, any chance you have knowledge on the Predator carbs on a tunnel ram? I’m building a 496 stroker jet boat and would love to run the old Sokol predators on it! I need someone with your knowledge to do a video on them, since there’s very limited info about them! They are making a come back in popularity and would love to use complete my 78 Sonic jet boat original water rod look and function! PLEASE HELP BRO!
I always liked 3x2s for the street.............but dual 4s most like you say are not set up properly much like the old dominator 3 barrel Holleys ............never knew those to work better then a good 4 barrel..............nice info here in the video....and a Ford man I see
Got a question, would you do a vidio on the Australian HEMI?an could it be made to work on the slant 6,an could more power be made with it?there version haveing a combustion chamber like the 426,could a blown version of this head on the slant 6 run on nitro?being that the HEMI loves it.
I've mentioned the Hemi 6 to Tony before, but unfortunately, there really aren't any available in the US for him to play with, as it was an Australia-only engine. But as I recall, the hemi head can't fit on the slant block (I remember looking into that when I was a kid, as I had a VG Pacer hardtop that was rusting away, and an AP5 - and the idea of making the AP5 a sleeper was rather appealing.)
Jessica, back in the day Australian Design Rules (ADR) specified a percentage of local content in our cars. This is where it gets interesting. The Australian Hemi engine is a local design and is in no way based off the Slant. We had Slant Sixes here, many, many thousands of them even factory 2bbl. Back to the Aussie Hemi, the motor is longer than a Slant Six. This meant that the car itself had to be lengthened a couple of inches to accommodate the Aussie Hemi Six and the body redesigned to accommodate the longer front. Even the chassis rails were lengthened in front of the front K-frame bolts. This should give you an idea of how the Aussie Hemi Six head won't fit on a Slant block. The bore spacing is different for starters and Aussie bores were larger. The Aussie Hemi was 215, 245 and 265 as you probably already know. The 265 is the rarer engine and the one to have and the head had larger valves too. The Aussie Hemi combustion chamber in almost no way approximates a 426 Gen 2 Hemi or for that matter the Chrysler/DeSoto/Plymouth Gen 1 Hemis of the 1950s. All those true Hemis had twin rocker shafts and were works of art in comparison to our fairly pedestrian 'Hemi.' It was more Hemi in name than anything else. The Aussie Hemi combustion chamber was more a wedge head with a slight rounded bit on the end of the wedge. It used unremarkable inline stud mounted stamped steel rocker arms - a departure from Mopar's propensity to use shaft mount rockers at that time. It also wasn't a cross flow design like a V8 so the intake and exhaust were on the same side like a Slant Six. Quite a lot of Hemi Sixes had single barrel carbs but all 265s had 2bbl (afaik) and many 245s had 2bbl also. I don't know percentages but a 2bbl 245 was probably about as common as a 1bbl 245 give or take. Aussie Hemi made good power however. Even a 1bbl 245 could be upgraded and the results were always impressive gains. The Hemi ports were pretty good but in stock trim most of them had dreadful valvetrain woes if you revved them up - by that I mean over 4500rpm. This was a shame because the engines were capable of revving up by design but were held back by a woefully inadequate valvetrain. The valve springs were too soft and the Morse timing set stretched causing the camshaft to slide forward and aft in the cam bearing stripping the distributor gear off. If you revved them up a tappet or two would tick so loudly that you could feel the hammering through the gas pedal. They were also a harsh engine for an inline six. Inline sixes should be smooth by nature but even though the Aussie Hemi had a seven bearing crank the crankshaft was only partially counterweighted so they were harsher than say a modern inline six. The aftermarket supported and still supports these engines and they were a great thing. Today fully counterweighted cranks make the engine so smooth you can hardly believe it is an Aussie Hemi - if you were building a factory resto car you'd never put one of the new cranks in it because one drive would tell a judge that something wasn't right in the engine department (I joke but they were pretty harsh when you revved them up). A bit of background for you.
@@aussiebloke609 shame about the lack of parts. Same as running a Barra here in the US, just no parts available! Wish I had a couple million dollars to set up an export/import shop for Aussie motors.
@@ThePaulv12 "It was more Hemi in name than anything else." Finally, someone who understand this and doesn't think the hemi 6 is either god's gift to man, or a boat anchor. LOL That said, they were damn good for their time - I remember my 245 2bbl Pacer (actually 250 - the Pacer got a 60 thou oversize bore from the factory, giving it 250 c.i.) being surprisingly good for a non-crossflow head. Can't say I noticed a lot of vibration at high revs, but I was a kid with limited experience at the time (my dad drove an FB Holden with 138 grey motor for most of his life - chalk and cheese as far as engine dynamics go.) But imagine how much better it could have been with a little more development. After all, the Barra traces its design roots back to the Ford Thriftpower-6 from 1959, and it's hard to imagine a more different engine to it's current-day descendant.
A friend of mine years ago had a 32 b model with a small block with dual 4s man you could hear those things sucking air and those pipes racking off.....
Hey Tony, I have a question for u that I can't find on Google, Iets start by saying I got a 76 charger Daytona (360) with x heads, cam, 10-1 compression making around 400 horse, Im thinking of swapping the rear end to a Dana 60 because I got a buddy that only wants 600 for the rear end, was coriouse what kind of fabrication is needed (if any) to make a Dana 60 fit were a 8-1/4 rear end was
750 brawlers on my 383 and she runs 10.7 at 130 mph. Little confused on progressive not being ideal for tunnel rams. Mine runs superb on street and strip 🤷
I've tired to explain the two 450cfm Holly's on my edelbrock str5 street tunnel ram with larger plenum 2 4s top. They just don't get it amd say that's too much air amd fuel for that 273 ci, especially bringing that my carbs have mechanic secondary vs a vacuum which would onky give motor what it needs . Like no being that it's 2 carbs the 450cfm rating on my carbs is based off a 1.5hg pressure drop with 1 carb and having 2 carbs lowers that 1.5 hg numer and carbs because of that, amd will flow less air (cfm) in turn which on my motor worked out to 780cfm if I recall. Ran great but had to tip in slow with throttle and lower speeds had this kind of flat spot. I changed the pump cam for how fast and how long or short the pump shot was when demanding fuel. After changing pump cams it was significantly smoother amd pulled harder without having to work clutch or throttle. Indidnt like a progressive linkage but nknow the 2.94 ratio could have fixed issue going to a 3.9 or higher ratio like the 4.56 I chose later. Daily drove my car for 8 years with that setup and still runs great. Pump throttle 3 times amd fired right up with. No choke just had to kinda had to kids pulse my foot on peddle for about a minute a slowly lower peddle until idle was good buy by now means difficult. My car being light,4speed and carbs not having any secondary squirters made cabs ideal for smaller ci as well and I tried swapping jets and made no change in mentioned issues or noticeable difference Now having said all that, you build a 400 plus 340 or stroker 408 those carbs could not be tuned enough for secondarys since they where not double pumper style carbs. And street tunnel ram intake was great as they matched heads in between small and large port head having long runners with a larger opening that tapered dowm so good into port velocity on that lil mopar sb. On anything 450 plua or stroker ide port match intake to head and port top of runners to heads mildly to get enough air in for the larger ci. Understanding the whole combo cam. Trans car weight and how carb cfm is rated and changed with the pressure drop under carbs is important. Along with limiting or see removing distributors option to advance is the difference between nice driving, smooth throttle transition a lig initial fire up vs a pig from tuning or wrong parts from lack of understanding or listening to the internet arm chair morons that just regurgitate shit they have heard with no actually experience on a setup of duals or a poor performing one saying this sucks but looks cool but know clue why because they car weighs 4200ilbs is auto with low stall and 2.94 rear with 275 60s and often under carbed or not matched carbs unknownly. Either way do it. 273 at 7200rpm with duals is fantastic sound over a single carb at full song and since done required no constant tuning. A wide band. Would be nice but reading plugs will get ya there cheaper and bettering understanding of what motor is doing or wants
I love 6 pak on the ole 69 gtx, it’s a trip, 3500 rpm’s all of a sudden you grab your ass and hold on..... the outside carbs kick in off of vacuum for you yunggin’s Lol👍👍👍👍👍
The legendary David Visard gets a mention. Awesome
In case you didn't know...here's a link to Dave Vizard Performance on yt. Seems his old instructional videos are being posted. :-)
ua-cam.com/users/marvingvx1
David Visard, was he the guy that tuned four Webers on a small block Chevy pickup and got crazy good all around numbers?
@@aussiebloke609 He has a channel as well.. David Vizard Performance great mentor and more importantly friend!
@@UnityMotorSportsGarage Lucky you. Never had the chance to meet the legend, but always loved his work on the SBC (and more importantly to me, the A-series BMC engine.) Seems like a great guy. :-)
@@aussiebloke609 He is a super great guy and he took me under his wing over 15 years ago and I've been his sidekick ever since.. lived and learned from the Dyno to the track... If you go to his channel I'm in his first episode talking about none other than Tunnel Rams..lol
“8 cylinders, 8 barrels, no waiting...” 😎
Yep ture 👍
Nothing but Fun!
I had a Holley 4 barrel 850cfm double pumper on my 351C engine in my 1972 Mercury Montego. Went to Weiland Tunnel- Ram and 2 Holley 450cfm carbs on my 351C. The carbs worked perfect out of the box. Minor air-fuel adjustment. Looked better in that big engine compartment. One turn of the key, starts like Fuel-Injection. Nice.
This is excellent information. I just switched my 468" big block Chevy from a 850 double pumper and air gap to a tunnel ram with dual 750 double pumpers. Took awhile to tune, but now it has every but as good drivability as the single carb and get the same gas mileage, but has considerably more power from 1800 rpm all the way to the top. The torque gain was nothing less than impressive (actually shocking).
It's hard to get good information on dual fours and tunnel rams on the internet- everybody says can't use a tunnel ram on the street and the only work for high rpm racing engines, which is exactly the opposite of my experience. This video confirms everything I have learned thru the experience of using a dual four tunnel ram. Tunnel rams kickass.
I have several of David Vizzar's books. Great reading.
Perfect timing, got dual wcfb for 283 I'm studying to install.
Great guest to have on the show. 👍
Excellent talk on carbs, and even better, on DUAL carbs! Thank you Andy & Uncle T!
The Chrysler engineer's knew what works best.
Never miss a good opportunity to: Shut up and listen
I love engine tech! Some people think it's boring i can't get enough.
I drive a 1965 427 Ford Galaxie....2x4 600 vacuum secondary Holley medium riser...the carbs are set up to act like a 600 mechanical advance double pumper with two extra vacuum secondaries.....you never know it's there until you really put your foot into it.... otherwise it drives like a single four....Ford Racing REALLY knew what they were doing in the 60's...
As a kid I ran a HP 289,Semi High Rise, Headers, and a Holley 700/750 2 Barrel, with a dual point. Total perfect setup for the car, a 1960 Falcon, 3 speed Hurst, and Ford Victoria Rear end. Car weighed 1900 lbs. And a Lincoln 8 tract player :). I ate 340 swingers for lunch. I would give anything to get that car back.
Great information there Andy!!👍👍
Thanks UTG for bringing us the video!!👍👍
I’ve got a friend with a rat rod and the tunnel ram like 12:00 . He has progressive linkage and refuses to change it and I runs like crap.
I put a bolt in the slotted linkage to lock it and after a little tuning it runs like a beast .
There is a lot to running dual quads than just bolting on a set of carbs. It is like starting new.you have to change your whole set up. You have the man for the knowledge of dual carbs. Thanks for the info,Tony.
Excellent video, excellent information. I've been arguing for years that you can get great economy with a performance engine, simply because the same principles apply. Every single engine modification to make more power, does so because they make the engine operate more efficiently. The more air you flow, the more fuel you CAN flow, but you don't HAVE TO! If you don't get good mileage out of your hot rod, you simply haven't tuned it right, or you can't keep your foot out of it!
I built a AMC 304 in a 77 Hornet s/w towing a 2000# camper at interstate speeds , went from 9 mph stock to 18.9 rebuilt using a 4 bbl carb, dual plane intake, head work , headers, dual exhaust, and turbo mufflers.
@@richarda996 why do that
I plead innocent to the second count lol
Or you have missmatched parts like the wrong cam, carbs etc. and they don't work well together. An engine is a bunch of systems working together and a missmatch can ruin your whole bowl of soup.
@@jamesford2942 That's a good point, and a problem that's far more common than it should be. People just buy what they think are the "best" parts and jumble them together, often without even considering what they actually want the car to do...
i hope you keep cranking out these vids for future generations to enjoy. great to see old skillls logged so they arnt totallly lost
I'd love to hear what Andy would have to say about dual quads on top of a blower. I realise that that's a whole nother animal.
It's pretty much straight forward just like the tunnel ram. The carbs are a metered air / fuel device and tuning follows basic rules. The main difference is in carburetor size so you don't restrict the blowers ability to pull / push air into the engine
run a centrifugal blower rather than a roots design--that way the boost goes into the carb, enjoys the cooling benefits of the venturi effect, and you don't get the lag inherent in a front mount intercooler. you are limited to the amount of boost where this works, but boost really just measures how much "resistance" the head port is giving anyway--invest in a good head design, less boost is needed to make the same power.
Andy has another video that digs deep into carb tuning and set-up that is a must watch!
Thanks Tony for getting great info out!
I have seen some amazing dual quad setups, that just ran great on the street and strip. And yet, carb haters are going to say "carbs are junk, carbs are old technology and dead"..... Carbed engines will keep running with very little fuss, where as an EFI engine can be killed just by damaging a single wire... ask me how I know.......
Uncle Tony you are the Rush Limbaugh of great practical real world tech! Keep it coming we really appreciate and enjoy your videos. Thanks!
Using a 427 Low Riser dual 652 Holly's will run smoother faster and get better mileage but the 2 inch spacers really woke up the 390 and 428 up . People overlook squirters , pump cams and other little details on Holley carbs . I'm thinking of building a 700 plus hp big cube Fe pump gas engine with aftermarket parts for a 67 Mustang .
Awesome video Uncle Tony! Thanks for sharing this great information! Thanks to Andy also!
Andy Wood is another Master. Thanks UT!
Yes! Been waiting for Dual Quad discussions. I have an Edelbrock B262 for my Buick 401, learning the hows and whys is helpful. Subbing to Unity Motorsports channel.
What a coincidence !! Until yesterday, never heard or seen a video of David Vizard. I watched the two videos of the Edelbrock porting (episode 8) and your guest, from Unity MotorSports Garage mentions him. Thanks for all the great videos. Regards.
He said the magic words...AIR SPEED...
Great video. Props to Uncle Tony and Unity Motorsports! I wonder how mild street engine.. say, a 383 stroker or any of the other American v8's would perform with 2 GM 670 cfm TBI units on top of a dual quad manifold. It seems like atomization would be better right off the jump and tuning would be done with a laptop and wideband O2 sensors. I think it would actually be simpler to tune, better drivability and economy and would automatically adjust for ambient temperature and altitude.
Really great video. I am sure there are more nuances than this, but very educational. As UT said, they put dual quads on bone stock engines for 65 years and they worked well on the street. But you can't go all Glidden and Allen on your stock 289.
I really like the 4 down draft Webber manifolds made by Moon manifolds. Shame I can't afford 4 Webber's. Lol.
There are Chinese knock offs out there cheap. You can get 4 48IDA 's for$800. The 48IDF's are half the price. Check Ebay
@@patrickbrown3135 Thanks heaps for the info. I will have a look.
@@patrickbrown3135 but do the parts fit?
That's the problem with Chinese knockoffs.
From what I am seeing from others, they work and fit great. As with the real deal Italian/Spanish Webers, they need to be set up and tuned for your custom application anyway. These carb kits are sold by EMPI for the air-cooled vw market , because of that, I think the commies have to get it right.
@@patrickbrown3135 oh, I knew the tuning and setup was required (and found a guy who knows how!), just wasn't sure if the parts were good.
I mean, the chinese knockoffs of Japanese bikes are so bad that the various Southeast Asian countries don't buy them, despite being 1/10 the cost.
So much knowledge, much respect from the uk
Great, I am building a 2-4 setup on my 355Chev engine using a Edelbrock manifold and AFB Edelbrock carbs. This is to be a retro setup modeled after a setup I ran at least 50 years ago in the same car.
Yea it’s a 39 Ford I have had for 55 years running Cheep Chevrolet motors that fit easily in the engine compartment.
I say cheep because the most I ever paid for a rebuildable core was $10.
The 350 is a 73 4 bolt main forged crank one that was free.
Agree on running engines you get for dirt cheap to free. I've never paid more than $150 for a Pontiac 400 or 455, usually get them free, so easy to make 500hp/550ftlbs with them, cam, lifters, headers and you're there with a 455 running any year of 400 head. Some of the 400 heads require race gas or E85 because they make 11.3:1 or more compression on a 455. With how cheap E85 is, thats what I do, just crank the compression up with small chamber heads and enjoy the torque. The pump gas 455s I built for less than $2000, bored .030 over, balanced, good machine work, but nothing they don't need like honing the mains, make enough grunt with 8.8:1 compression to push a 4100lb 70 GTO into the mid to high 12s with a 2.93 gear behind them. Yep, not a typo, two ninety three. And a stock type converter that stalls around 1900-2100. One of them was built in 1995 and its still good, no ring ridge, no blow by, and it was my daily driver for ten years along with getting raced often.
Getting a cheap or free engine and rebuilding it like Tony does is fun, I simply like to do it with more cubes. Tried it with a $500 sbc 400 short block, put vortec heads on it, and man that thing nickel and dimed me to death, sure the heads are $300 a piece, but then you need all the special stuff that fits them, and suddenly you are over $2500. Compared to my Pontiac 400s its a pooch too, because the valve guides won't let you run more than .465" lift, so that is more machine work and money. If it would stop leaking from a different spot every time I run it, I might be more inclined to like it. Less torque for the same cam timing than my Pontiac 400s, less power everywhere, and the leaks..no wonder RTV is so popular. The LS costs a lot more, but they don't leak. HotRod magazine lied to me saying the vortec heads are cheap power.. would have been less expensive to put some AFRs or Edelbrock heads on it. It might be cracked, the sbc likes to crack things.
For a basic driver you pull out and stuff in the chevy works pretty good. Very easy to find parts, usually not overly expensive because you can find stuff used easy. I had to buy new with the 400 because nobody had parts for it around here. Making the power I get from my Pontiacs with one costs more than I want to bother with. These LS swaps are pricey, doing one on my 76 C10, even using parts from engines I got free its expensive. I like them in my 98 Formula and the 4x4s I run in the winter, so I figure why not the summer truck too? I hope the 6.0 makes decent power, the one in the 99 Silverado 2500 runs pretty good for such a heavy truck. The 76 came to me with a 305 that developed a death rattle, I put a 400 Pontiac in it for about 8 years, then needed that 400 for a GTO build, and put an 86 454 in the truck, man that thing was a gutless pig that drank gas, seriously 4mpg in a 2wd short box half ton. Changing the cam, intake, and probably heads on the rat was going to cost a fortune, so I went LS in it. People have been giving me 5.3s for free lately, with the entire truck. As long as you use all used stock parts they are pretty cheap. Making them run in an older vehicle is going to cost more though, its $700 just to make it run after putting it in, doesn't matter if you run EFI or carb.
Fun stuff to play with though.
I did not mention that all the basic parts for my 2-4s are used, manifold, carbs etc. I did buy new jets etc
@@williamcarey6592 I only bought three manifolds new, out of the 50 or so engines I own. When it comes to Pontiac engines anything other than a single 4 barrel is going to be a used piece, there are some tri power intakes being made, but they get pricey. Used stuff is fun stuff.
@@SweatyFatGuy
I buy lots of used things, some things thou you have to get new like cams and lifters etc.
I always have stretched my dollars by buying used, tools, guns etc.
Even my ex was used.
@@williamcarey6592 my first ex was a used 1974 model, the second ex was a spanking new unused never driven 1982 model. I am from 1969, one of the good years, so I am appreciating in value, but the suspension is worn out and needs rebuilt.
When it comes to cams, bearings, etc, yeah I get all of that new, I see them as consumables. I have a virgin 400 block on a stand, so I am thinking it needs a UT rebuild, rings and bearings with a bit of a hone. Throw some of my 72cc heads on it, a RA IV cam, used springs, new oil pump, stock intake, E85 Qjet, and stuff it in something light. Sounds like a $350 engine that in a 3000lb car should come real close to running 11s with a 3.42 gear.
I want to go 11s in this 72 Ventura for less than $1000... excluding wheels and tires, because hell those alone are a grand. The car itself was free, and its been sitting around for over 20 years now. Its a reason to make videos.
Figure I will do that while I am waiting for the aftermarket block and 4.5" crank kit to show up so I can dump it in something like the 68 LeMans or 65 LeMans gasser with the heads and cam from my street strip toy. Probably the 68 because I can fit a lot more tire under that thing than the 65. Should be over 800ftlbs from 3500 to 5500 with that setup, all motor. Fun times. The reason for that one is to go embarrass people who say Pontiacs will can't run faster than 13s.. lol
Thank you both! Great info.
You guys did GREAT on that pod Cast!
Thanks Tony the video has a lot of info that I was wanting to know.
Awesome intel, as usual Uncle Tony! What if.....say I was thinking of trying a PAIR of small-block Thermoquads on a low deck tunnel ram. Am I crazy?
Used to have a weiand tunnel ram and holley 650's on a 327 in my 1941 super deluxe. I don't know who built the motor, but it was faster than greased lighting, now it's dialed down to a single 650 on a torquer 2. The reason for the change was low speed drivability, I'm definitely learning something watching this.
Somewhat related, as i'm looking into a tunnel ram.....I got a 400 sbc on propane that i'm looking to hop up. In my research looking into tunnel rams and dual quads. I learned that the tow truck guys with the 350 chevys and and 351's in the fords, and the chevy/ford big block guys. Actually preferred tunnel rams and dual carbs for their propane powered trucks. They got better low end power out of the trucks over any regular hi rise or stock style intake with a single carb. And they even got better mileage, one guy supposed picked 4mpg in his 460 big block ford tow truck
I found Andy's channel a good while back doing one of my regular searches for "tunnel ram". He really has that truck dialed in.
I like my dual quads on my 318 👍
Tonyception: A video, inside a video, inside a video
Great video Uncle Ton!!!!
I love old style. No computers. About to do 2 edelbrock avs2 500 dual quads on my 1985 mustang gt. I sold it 27 years ago and my brother happened to see it for sale no engine and was about to be scrapped. It will love again better than ever
Great info.wonder if you or Andy could do one on 3 deuces? Thanks again,really rocks!
Not wrong there U.T.! Happened to run into Mr. 8 Barrel, from Steve Super Tune Vizard, sites. One of the most sort after, missing bits of info, one needed. Won over, when i comes to a Tunnel Ram! Or eight barrel!
Thank u for the information gentlemen 👍
Andy's bumpside Ford causes me to walk around dry humping the air...
Unity motorsports has a ton of good information on carburetors
Me, about to go to sleep
Sees Uncle Tony post a video
Also me: meh, sleep can wait another 20 minutes..
i run a chevy 468 dual carb tunnel ram i build and tune my own motors , and mine runs exactly like your truck , yes you can tune a carb to run good if you know what your doing, and understand how a carb actually works, most people have it wrong, ive been doing this for over 40 years, since 1980 actually, im still figuring you out for what you really know, so far its not bad,for the most part , you will be able to help a lot of people, im shocked how most people dont know the even the basics on tuning a carb, they know nothing about altitude even more important adjusted altitude which is my guide, not actual altitude, they ask what size carb do i need , and all these people start telling them what they need, altitude figures never get mentioned, amazing, most people have no idea it even matters, but yet call themselves experts. before i tell you what carb YOU NEED ,first lets talk about where you live, those words never get mentioned on any of these online carb discussions.
i run one to one linkage on a single plane tunnel ram olds 455 with two 600 cfm edelbrocks jetted one stage down with stiff springs and thompson power blast plates with a mild cam and 373 gears. drives great. races great. gets chicks.
Everyone over carbs. Engine masters had the perfect test. Tested a 383 SBC that had dynoed around 470 HP. They dynoed with a 650-750-850-950. Most cfm that engine pulled was 617 cfm. The least was about 607. Actually made less HP with the 850/950
Cool info.
I have a dual quad tunnel ram on my 545 ci. SCJ. Pair of Holley 450 cfm made for TR.
From Summit.
Tremic TKO 5 sp.
3:89 gears.
1970 Ford Cobra.
Runs good.
12 mpg.
I hope I can remember all this. Thanks
Very well explained. Thank you.
That was awesome. Great tech. Thanks for sharing.
I had a 354 hemi with singel plane 2x4barrel tested with progressive set up and lamba meter worked like a shit & shift over to parallel set up and it worked well
What is the cost benefit of a multiport fuel injection vs a multi carb set up? It would seem injection would have an advantage.
I just got a avs2 650 i should of got one long time ago i could tell a big difference from the 600 edelbrock half throttle she moves 383 stroker 79 k5
Great video.
I’d be interested to know what kind of timing curve would be the best for dual quads/tunnel rams on the street with an occasional blast down the strip.
HOWdy U-T-G, ... Thanks ANDY,
Thanks for the Education & the THEORY
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
Just worked on a 1970 Hemi Cuda it had the progressive linkage it does work good on the street ......its good not getting into that other carburetor all the time while your cruising
thanks Andy and U.T. good info there.
But what about dual quads versus stack injection? :-)
Heh, ' stay tuned', I see what he did there...
Thanks Andy!
Ok, uncle, the subject is 3 barrel carbs, Carter or Holly, what years and your thoughts about using them on a tunnel ram 400 chevy??? thanks keep making them and we will watch them. TSN
Can you interview the plugs next, I want to hear their story
👈I have the dual Edelbrock 500s kit you can buy from summit on a 406 useing progressive linkage, out of the box I’m getting 12 miles to the gallon in a 1980 regal with a th 400,gear vendors overdrive with 4:11 gears on the hiway, 26 inch tall tire, it’s always ran good, plugs have always looked good also, probably 5 or less mpg hot rodding stop lights, the pedal gets real stiff when your flirting with opening the second carb, kind of lets you know where your at, its fun.
Very cool !!!!!!!!!!!!! 💪💪💪
This is great timing for me cause I’m gonna be throwing together a 440 for a rough 68 Coronet 500 I’m gonna paint flat black and put a red super bee stripe on and I have a set of 660 center squirters I could put on it
I have a set of headers I would like to donate to the gambler project. How can I get in touch with you?
6 pack or dual quads on a 1969 HP 440?..thats what im trying to determine for my next build
Six pack is the more iconic on a 440.
But if you're feeling brave, you could do triple quads...
8 > 6
And triple carb setups are notoriously finicky
Dual quad tunnel ram.
That's a tuff 1, but I don't think you can get it wrong! Dual quad's rock and so do 6 pack's! What ever you do you're 440 is going to be awesome! 😎
@@bradoconnor9868 considering what I usually start out with,it can only get better..I'm not rich so my cars I find in the woods or in fields..I saved a charger from being parted out last yr,I put a 1969 383hp in it with a dual plane intake and an edelbrock 750 with mechanical secondaries and it's a God damned torque monster!..recently I found a rotten out 69 plymouth which I'm currently restructuring..managed to find a 440 out of a gtx,unfortunately the intake and carbs were missing,but either way I decided I'm gonna go big or go home,or as far as my limited budget will allow me..the money will be going under the hood,not on a fancy paint job,it's gonna be all business..all go and no show!
Thanks for the tips
Ok, I’m one of the less mechanical guys but I do love the cars and the looks of the duel quads. I have a 66 Impala 327 4 sp car with a 308 gear. It’s the 275 ho version. The car runs great and is very cool but I wish to up the coolness of the ride. I just picked up a GM dual quad intake from a 61 Vette, Uncle old car parts. I would like to run it on my 66. Can you advise if the Holley 390 CFMs would be a good fit? How about the linkage. Im thinking you are saying one to one but not sure. I will likely change the gear to a 373 and add a small hydraulic cam but maybe not. Will it work completely stock?
More homogeneous mix with dual quads?
At about 13:30, did I hear *”hostile converter”?*
I have a 427 SBC single four barrel that dyno'd at 565 Hp and 565 Torq. I'm thinking of going with a dual quad cross ram set up. Could you recommend the carb and manifold for this ? Thank you.
Hello Tony. I have a few questions about transmissions. I wanted to attach them to a transmission video. I looked through your video list twice and to my surprise, you don't have one. Yes, transmissions are a child of another god we don't talk to much. I would love to hear your opinion of them. The good, the bad, and the ugly. Also, I heard of a guy once. He put a 1500 stall torque converter in a 350 Camaro. Legend has it he got 35 mpg out of it. If/when I get a Camaro I would want to drive it. Not just in circles. How would that work? Is it viable? Is it stupid? I would love to hear your opinion.
Could you do a video abot getting the 70s stance, I know there's tons of stuff on the internet, but I want to hear from the professor.
I like this and I have a 4cyl unmolested Camry.
That's legit.
Great stuff!!!!
Right on
I've never tried 2 4's but I've seen many people at the track fighting them. I've always had goodluck with my demon's if I needed alot of fuel.
15 people dropped their cake
UTG, any chance you have knowledge on the Predator carbs on a tunnel ram? I’m building a 496 stroker jet boat and would love to run the old Sokol predators on it! I need someone with your knowledge to do a video on them, since there’s very limited info about them! They are making a come back in popularity and would love to use complete my 78 Sonic jet boat original water rod look and function! PLEASE HELP BRO!
I always liked 3x2s for the street.............but dual 4s most like you say are not set up properly
much like the old dominator 3 barrel Holleys ............never knew those to work better then a good 4 barrel..............nice info here in the video....and a Ford man I see
Got a question, would you do a vidio on the Australian HEMI?an could it be made to work on the slant 6,an could more power be made with it?there version haveing a combustion chamber like the 426,could a blown version of this head on the slant 6 run on nitro?being that the HEMI loves it.
I've mentioned the Hemi 6 to Tony before, but unfortunately, there really aren't any available in the US for him to play with, as it was an Australia-only engine. But as I recall, the hemi head can't fit on the slant block (I remember looking into that when I was a kid, as I had a VG Pacer hardtop that was rusting away, and an AP5 - and the idea of making the AP5 a sleeper was rather appealing.)
Jessica, back in the day Australian Design Rules (ADR) specified a percentage of local content in our cars.
This is where it gets interesting. The Australian Hemi engine is a local design and is in no way based off the Slant. We had Slant Sixes here, many, many thousands of them even factory 2bbl.
Back to the Aussie Hemi, the motor is longer than a Slant Six. This meant that the car itself had to be lengthened a couple of inches to accommodate the Aussie Hemi Six and the body redesigned to accommodate the longer front. Even the chassis rails were lengthened in front of the front K-frame bolts.
This should give you an idea of how the Aussie Hemi Six head won't fit on a Slant block. The bore spacing is different for starters and Aussie bores were larger. The Aussie Hemi was 215, 245 and 265 as you probably already know. The 265 is the rarer engine and the one to have and the head had larger valves too.
The Aussie Hemi combustion chamber in almost no way approximates a 426 Gen 2 Hemi or for that matter the Chrysler/DeSoto/Plymouth Gen 1 Hemis of the 1950s. All those true Hemis had twin rocker shafts and were works of art in comparison to our fairly pedestrian 'Hemi.' It was more Hemi in name than anything else.
The Aussie Hemi combustion chamber was more a wedge head with a slight rounded bit on the end of the wedge. It used unremarkable inline stud mounted stamped steel rocker arms - a departure from Mopar's propensity to use shaft mount rockers at that time. It also wasn't a cross flow design like a V8 so the intake and exhaust were on the same side like a Slant Six. Quite a lot of Hemi Sixes had single barrel carbs but all 265s had 2bbl (afaik) and many 245s had 2bbl also. I don't know percentages but a 2bbl 245 was probably about as common as a 1bbl 245 give or take.
Aussie Hemi made good power however. Even a 1bbl 245 could be upgraded and the results were always impressive gains. The Hemi ports were pretty good but in stock trim most of them had dreadful valvetrain woes if you revved them up - by that I mean over 4500rpm. This was a shame because the engines were capable of revving up by design but were held back by a woefully inadequate valvetrain. The valve springs were too soft and the Morse timing set stretched causing the camshaft to slide forward and aft in the cam bearing stripping the distributor gear off. If you revved them up a tappet or two would tick so loudly that you could feel the hammering through the gas pedal.
They were also a harsh engine for an inline six. Inline sixes should be smooth by nature but even though the Aussie Hemi had a seven bearing crank the crankshaft was only partially counterweighted so they were harsher than say a modern inline six.
The aftermarket supported and still supports these engines and they were a great thing. Today fully counterweighted cranks make the engine so smooth you can hardly believe it is an Aussie Hemi - if you were building a factory resto car you'd never put one of the new cranks in it because one drive would tell a judge that something wasn't right in the engine department (I joke but they were pretty harsh when you revved them up).
A bit of background for you.
@@aussiebloke609 shame about the lack of parts.
Same as running a Barra here in the US, just no parts available!
Wish I had a couple million dollars to set up an export/import shop for Aussie motors.
@@ThePaulv12 "It was more Hemi in name than anything else."
Finally, someone who understand this and doesn't think the hemi 6 is either god's gift to man, or a boat anchor. LOL That said, they were damn good for their time - I remember my 245 2bbl Pacer (actually 250 - the Pacer got a 60 thou oversize bore from the factory, giving it 250 c.i.) being surprisingly good for a non-crossflow head. Can't say I noticed a lot of vibration at high revs, but I was a kid with limited experience at the time (my dad drove an FB Holden with 138 grey motor for most of his life - chalk and cheese as far as engine dynamics go.) But imagine how much better it could have been with a little more development. After all, the Barra traces its design roots back to the Ford Thriftpower-6 from 1959, and it's hard to imagine a more different engine to it's current-day descendant.
Too bad Andy doesn't post more, his truck is legit.
Stay tuned for more stuff from Unity. It is a balancing act between UA-cam content, a full-time job, and family.
A friend of mine years ago had a 32 b model with a small block with dual 4s man you could hear those things sucking air and those pipes racking off.....
Hey Tony, I have a question for u that I can't find on Google, Iets start by saying I got a 76 charger Daytona (360) with x heads, cam, 10-1 compression making around 400 horse, Im thinking of swapping the rear end to a Dana 60 because I got a buddy that only wants 600 for the rear end, was coriouse what kind of fabrication is needed (if any) to make a Dana 60 fit were a 8-1/4 rear end was
750 brawlers on my 383 and she runs 10.7 at 130 mph. Little confused on progressive not being ideal for tunnel rams. Mine runs superb on street and strip 🤷
Besides that they look cool
always wanted to try 2 Q jets on a tunnel ram...
Where can I get the linkage for a dual quad 318 poly engine, I’m building a home rebuild, thanks
I've tired to explain the two 450cfm Holly's on my edelbrock str5 street tunnel ram with larger plenum 2 4s top. They just don't get it amd say that's too much air amd fuel for that 273 ci, especially bringing that my carbs have mechanic secondary vs a vacuum which would onky give motor what it needs .
Like no being that it's 2 carbs the 450cfm rating on my carbs is based off a 1.5hg pressure drop with 1 carb and having 2 carbs lowers that 1.5 hg numer and carbs because of that, amd will flow less air (cfm) in turn which on my motor worked out to 780cfm if I recall. Ran great but had to tip in slow with throttle and lower speeds had this kind of flat spot. I changed the pump cam for how fast and how long or short the pump shot was when demanding fuel. After changing pump cams it was significantly smoother amd pulled harder without having to work clutch or throttle. Indidnt like a progressive linkage but nknow the 2.94 ratio could have fixed issue going to a 3.9 or higher ratio like the 4.56 I chose later.
Daily drove my car for 8 years with that setup and still runs great. Pump throttle 3 times amd fired right up with. No choke just had to kinda had to kids pulse my foot on peddle for about a minute a slowly lower peddle until idle was good buy by now means difficult. My car being light,4speed and carbs not having any secondary squirters made cabs ideal for smaller ci as well and I tried swapping jets and made no change in mentioned issues or noticeable difference
Now having said all that, you build a 400 plus 340 or stroker 408 those carbs could not be tuned enough for secondarys since they where not double pumper style carbs. And street tunnel ram intake was great as they matched heads in between small and large port head having long runners with a larger opening that tapered dowm so good into port velocity on that lil mopar sb. On anything 450 plua or stroker ide port match intake to head and port top of runners to heads mildly to get enough air in for the larger ci.
Understanding the whole combo cam. Trans car weight and how carb cfm is rated and changed with the pressure drop under carbs is important. Along with limiting or see removing distributors option to advance is the difference between nice driving, smooth throttle transition a lig initial fire up vs a pig from tuning or wrong parts from lack of understanding or listening to the internet arm chair morons that just regurgitate shit they have heard with no actually experience on a setup of duals or a poor performing one saying this sucks but looks cool but know clue why because they car weighs 4200ilbs is auto with low stall and 2.94 rear with 275 60s and often under carbed or not matched carbs unknownly.
Either way do it. 273 at 7200rpm with duals is fantastic sound over a single carb at full song and since done required no constant tuning. A wide band. Would be nice but reading plugs will get ya there cheaper and bettering understanding of what motor is doing or wants
Reading plugs, *if you know how,* is like having an O2 sensor on every cylinder.
You got it... all truth... there is alot of tuning involved but once it is right that sound is like no other once you hit the loud pedal!
Good info. Thanks.
Can I some how run one of these set ups on a 2002 5.9 magnum I can’t find any that are suitable for it or are intakes universal
I was thinking of doing this to my 79 dodge magnum.i have a 360 with some work done to it.i am just worried about getting the linkage right.
I love 6 pak on the ole 69 gtx, it’s a trip, 3500 rpm’s all of a sudden you grab your ass and hold on..... the outside carbs kick in off of vacuum for you yunggin’s Lol👍👍👍👍👍
I'd like to see and hear someone with a dual tunnel ram but with 2 tuned thermoquads 😁