Many thanks, this has been very helpful to me in testing the innerds of an alternator. The bit at the end was like a trip down memory lane for me, as i purchased a Nissan Patrol (24 volt electrics) brand new back in 1986. I put 400k on the clock in the following 8 years, most of them towing a big Ifor Williams trailer and it never missed a beat. The friend i sold it to put a further 250k on it. After the inevitable bodywork corrosion we get here in the UK it terminally failed its MOT, but the engine lives on to this day in a big old forklift truck.. David in Dudley.
Hi Andy, great video. I've just removed the alternator (no output) from my 1996 Patrol. So I'll be following your procedure, many thanks for posting. I felt cheated, my Patrol has 'only' done 350,00kms and it's been bomb proof reliable for the last 12 years!! A Pommie mate worked for Nissan for 20 years, thru the 80's and 90's, he said that in that era Nissan vehicles were designed by engineers, but that now they are designed by accountants... Cheers Paul, ex Pommie, 20 years in NZ South Island
Andy, What about the cleaning of the chassis of the alternator? It looks awfully dirty¡ Although it is finely repaired. Thanks and warm greetings from Mexico
A big belated thank you for the detailed vid. I have a Denso alt from 1988 and although it is not the same, the info on repairing is brilliant. By the way, is it normal for most Japanese alts to have to get to around 1500 RPM before they kick up the voltage beyond 13.5V ? Mine doesn't seem to start working until that RPM .
I have a new alternator. but it only gives 11.9 V. how did you connect the cables and to check the alternator. My alternator has "S and L" connectors "L" to the bulb, "S" to the "+" battery. That's how I understand it. And one thing, how to check which cable in the car is to be connected to the "+" battery, I think about these thin "S & L" cables, how to check which is "S which L" Thanks
+Tom OConnor hmmmm. . Larger than 25 watts that's for sure. Maybe 50 watts. You can clean up the slip rings just using fine wet and dry sandpaper by hand. No need to use a lathe unless they need resurfacing. .
Hi Andy, I have the same alternator and my sub diodes in the rectifier are broken. Any way to find the ratings for them so I can get new from my local electrical store? Mine are completely gone can't see any numbers on them.
In my experience 18 - 20 yrs of being an auto electrician, and can rebuild these alternators in my sleep, most of the brush only repairs (customer requests) I've done have come back within 12months (or a few weeks in some cases) because the regulator has died, better off replacing the regulator as well.. So many things wrong with this video.. , I see that you've commented on how the brushes were only making contact on parts of the slip ring and then you showed how out of round it was.. you should have machined it on the lathe to make it round again, leaving it like this will reduce the life of the brushes as they will be burning and wearing faster as they jump on the out of round slip ring, but at least u cleaned it . Did you replace the bearings? this wouldn't help the out of round slip ring either, did you replace the seal in the back housing I saw oil on the inside of the seal which means there could be a leak starting.. did u check for a groove in the shaft where it goes through the seal?. I'll bet you'll have to pull this back out in the near future to fix 1 of the above mentioned problems most likely oil getting past the old oil seal into the brushes, making more work for yourself. As you keep mentioning this alternator is 26 yrs yrs old, so why you wouldn't replace these serviceable items while you had it out is pretty silly.
+Matthew Dimauro Hi, thanks for your feedback. You are correct in everything you say. I did not set out to do a full 'overhaul' of the alternator, just to find what had failed and get the unit up and running again. I have a spare unit which I have also stripped and found a blown diode in the rectifier - I will be replacing the diode and reassembling it. Maybe, one day I will do a comprehensive video covering all the required checks and replacement of seals and bearings etc but not this time around. Thanks again for your input. Cheers Andy
Bugger. Well, just to give you all an update, the re-brushed alternator is still working strong after 18 months of daily use. Sure, replacing the seal & machining the slip rings in the lathe would have been a sensible option - I do this to most commutators before rebuilding but maybe next time I'll do it on an alternator too. Fair points to make and pleased for the input. Cheers Andy
Many thanks, this has been very helpful to me in testing the innerds of an alternator. The bit at the end was like a trip down memory lane for me, as i purchased a Nissan Patrol (24 volt electrics) brand new back in 1986. I put 400k on the clock in the following 8 years, most of them towing a big Ifor Williams trailer and it never missed a beat. The friend i sold it to put a further 250k on it. After the inevitable bodywork corrosion we get here in the UK it terminally failed its MOT, but the engine lives on to this day in a big old forklift truck..
David in Dudley.
Hi Andy, great video.
I've just removed the alternator (no output) from my 1996 Patrol. So I'll be following your procedure, many thanks for posting.
I felt cheated, my Patrol has 'only' done 350,00kms and it's been bomb proof reliable for the last 12 years!!
A Pommie mate worked for Nissan for 20 years, thru the 80's and 90's, he said that in that era Nissan vehicles were designed by engineers, but that now they are designed by accountants...
Cheers Paul, ex Pommie, 20 years in NZ South Island
Brilliant video Andy, thanks.
well done, quite a project that, thanks for doing it
Thanks for the very informative and educational video
Just did similar to my 25 year old marine Alternator who's bearing was seized. thanks for showing the wire plan to bench test.
Great journey! Thanks.
Very good informative video CHEERS when In diode selection on the meter the reading is actually voltage drop not continuity Just subscribed
Andy, good alternator,s. Job You have done, thank you for sharing. Yours videos , I. Appreciate it so much
Nice one mate, good in depth video with lots of hands on and info, all the things lacking from "car restoration tv programmes".
nice job buddy :))
Thank You Andy!
Andy, What about the cleaning of the chassis of the alternator? It looks awfully dirty¡ Although it is finely repaired. Thanks and warm greetings from Mexico
Bloody Hell 5$ repair ---- Brilliant Well Done - Great job - Now lets get it back in the truck.....
+MrRobert1603 oh....it's in the truck now & working just fine :-) Cheers Andy
Hey, mate, what happened to that drill bit you put in to stop the brush heads? did you leave it there?
No, you pull it out once assembled
Cheers Andy
I think you have in the near future to get a sandblasting and ultrasonic equipment to deliver your repaired items completely clean.
A big belated thank you for the detailed vid. I have a Denso alt from 1988 and although it is not the same, the info on repairing is brilliant. By the way, is it normal for most Japanese alts to have to get to around 1500 RPM before they kick up the voltage beyond 13.5V ? Mine doesn't seem to start working until that RPM .
hi nice and very informative
hello Andy, what is your interesting neck jewelry dangling from ur neck string?
Changed the rotor,start,diode plate and eventually regulator but still no charge.how will i know if the rotor or stator are12V or what is ohm rating?
I have a new alternator. but it only gives 11.9 V. how did you connect the cables and to check the alternator. My alternator has "S and L" connectors "L" to the bulb, "S" to the "+" battery. That's how I understand it. And one thing, how to check which cable in the car is to be connected to the "+" battery, I think about these thin "S & L" cables, how to check which is "S which L" Thanks
Do you use flux when soldering?
$5 repair I bet it's $150 rebuilt or more. Well done.
+STEVE ROB Haha! Yes, a budget repair indeed! Cheers Steve. Andy
Hey mate is this same principle for a 24v unit?
What wattage soldering iron would be suitable ? What to use instead of lathe ? Great video !
+Tom OConnor hmmmm. . Larger than 25 watts that's for sure. Maybe 50 watts. You can clean up the slip rings just using fine wet and dry sandpaper by hand. No need to use a lathe unless they need resurfacing. .
Hi Andy,
I have the same alternator and my sub diodes in the rectifier are broken. Any way to find the ratings for them so I can get new from my local electrical store? Mine are completely gone can't see any numbers on them.
there is no battery indicator on the cluster
3:30 honey bee says hello!
In my experience 18 - 20 yrs of being an auto electrician, and can rebuild these alternators in my sleep, most of the
brush only repairs (customer requests) I've done have come back within
12months (or a few weeks in some cases) because the regulator has died, better off replacing the
regulator as well.. So many things wrong with this video.. , I see that you've commented on how the brushes were only
making contact on parts of the slip ring and then you showed how out of
round it was.. you should have machined it on the lathe to make it round again,
leaving it like this will reduce the life of the brushes as they will be
burning and wearing faster as they jump on the out of round slip ring, but at least u cleaned it .
Did you replace the bearings? this wouldn't help the out of round slip
ring either, did you replace the seal in the back housing I saw oil on
the inside of the seal which means there could be a leak starting.. did u
check for a groove in the shaft where it goes through the seal?. I'll
bet you'll have to pull this back out in the near future to fix 1 of the
above mentioned problems most likely oil getting past the old oil seal
into the brushes, making more work for yourself. As you keep mentioning this alternator is 26 yrs yrs old, so why you wouldn't replace these serviceable items while you had it out is pretty silly.
+Matthew Dimauro Hi, thanks for your feedback. You are correct in everything you say. I did not set out to do a full 'overhaul' of the alternator, just to find what had failed and get the unit up and running again. I have a spare unit which I have also stripped and found a blown diode in the rectifier - I will be replacing the diode and reassembling it.
Maybe, one day I will do a comprehensive video covering all the required checks and replacement of seals and bearings etc but not this time around.
Thanks again for your input. Cheers Andy
That's fair enough, but instead of rebuild in the title, you should have put temporary patch up.
+Matthew Dimauro okay, I'll change some of the description. Thanks again
And then there is my case. A new alternator that went bad after putting 39k miles on it
Bugger. Well, just to give you all an update, the re-brushed alternator is still working strong after 18 months of daily use. Sure, replacing the seal & machining the slip rings in the lathe would have been a sensible option - I do this to most commutators before rebuilding but maybe next time I'll do it on an alternator too.
Fair points to make and pleased for the input.
Cheers Andy