I want to thank you very much! My 1997 Celica died and had to be towed home. I confirmed that there was no ignition spark and suspected the igniter module. I was pretty sure that was the problem and ordered a used one on ebay. Then I saw your video and ran the test you described. Using a VOM to detect the output when the 5V input was pulsed did not show any output. But when I hooked up an oscilloscope I could see the output. I continued troubleshooting, confirmed the coil in the distributor was good and the signal coil showed good as well. But when I tried to check continuity through the distributor rotor I not only could not get any resistance measurement, but the rotor fell apart in my hands! That rotor was only a couple of years old, too! So I replaced the rotor with a new one from Toyota and the car ran fine. Then the used igniter came in the mail and the test showed it was bad, a fact confirmed by trying it out in the car, which produced no start. Thanks!
Great work, it's good to know this video was helpful to you. A relatively cheap fix then to fit a new rotor, lucky it didn't damage any other components. Thanks for the feedback, all the best. Andy
5v power supply? Use a car cigarette lighter USB adapter. What you charge your phone with in the car? USB standard is 5v, so slice off the micro USB/lightning end, peel back the insulation, and the red wire is your 5v+. Black is your ground.
Hi Andy, thanks for the video. I diagnosed a faulty igniter on a 4 cylinder camry following your method. Extra information for anyone wondering - my igniter was still switching when given a 5 volt trigger signal, but the output signal was only 0.75 volts. Bench testing the new igniter prior to installation showed the switched output at 5 volts.
@@jmaverick it would run fine most of the time, then occasionally skip/misfire or stall. This was a few years ago but I think this video helped with another problem I had with this car where it would intermittently stall and refuse to fire again. Eventually it just died altogether one day in my driveway. That ended up being a faulty engine computer.
@@AndyMechanic they were probably both failing concurrently. The new igniter kept me going for a couple more months before the problem got worse again and it turns completely, and I ended up tracing it back to the ECU.
@@dvspeter I was able to finally get my truck repaired. Crank Crank Crank and no start ended up mostly being the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Replaced it and the plugs AGAIN and it fired right up and drove it down the road. Thanks for all your info
nice to see there are still mechanics /teachers showing younger gen how to find the underlying problem. Instead of dumping a bucket of guess parts at it ,yup no start ,don't check the fuel gauge nope new motor should fix it, if not hell put as tranny in it ,your choice in the passenger seat or under the car.
Great video thanks. I hate the "cannot" test or gaps in the manual. This was the only "black box" for me in my Carona ignition system (the rest is so basic '93 spec lol).
Thanks for the reply ,sorry for the lack of info but this has been going on for two years and three different dealers,so memory's kinda slow remembering all the tests. She has been sitting in a heated building were i recently have had some time to take her out for a ride and try to figure this out ,i for some reason had a suspicion it was a injector/fuel problem so i removed the injectors sent them out and fuel filter was rattling have had built a few engines earlier i cut it open and found the back plate to the filter was no longer secured to the inner barrel,the filter was extremely blocked with some sort of muddy gel . Im only guessing when the pressure built up it blew the plate off and pressed it against the outlet hole ., finally i figured it out replace fuel filter ,remove tank ,because i have nothing better to do lol , clean lines get injectors back and long behold . I think its actually worse .same issue no change except new code 1310 igniter something or other, never seen this one before?first start up 20 to 30 sec or so it runs like a Rolex as soon as it starts to idle down from the choke i can hear the misfire and if i put it in gear and apply small load it painfully auvious threes a miss but it seems to be not on every fireing order seq. it misses and for a few seconds it instantly clears up and goes back to missing as if its only sparking one or two out of every req 10-20 times??? cam sensor crank sens igniter what do i shove down her windpipe before i send this cranky xxxx to her long term care facility......help,love the chanel been glued since discovered
Cheers for the info. I'd be really tempted to test fuel line pressure first, just to eliminate the fuel system completely. Then it's really time to get hold of an oscilloscope so you can capture the waveforms of crank sensor, injector pulse and of course ignition. It could be a bad coil, igniter or crank sensor (if you have a distributor on your engine, like the one in the video, then they have a cam sensor & not a crank sensor. Capturing each signal is shown in the videos. You can pick up a scope pretty cheap these days. PicoScope 2000 series is only a couple of hundred $$. Good luck. Cheers Andy
I been searching for solutions to using msd ignition supplies. However the barrear i face is dealing with the distributor, it has internal coil. 96 toyota 4runner. Has the same exciter in this video.
Video link where Andy Mechanic creates the logic probe: ua-cam.com/video/4TH6zSdFlhA/v-deo.html Note: Two ignitors are tested/featured in this video. The first ignitor, Ignitor 201 is Toyota P/N 89621-12050 and is removed from a 1992 Toyota MR2 (W20 Chassis, 3S-GE engine). The second ignitor, Ignitor CHD1 is Toyota P/N 89621-16020 and is removed from a Toyota RAV4 (Chassis and engine are unknown; no mention made). An ignitor removed from a 1985 Toyota 4Runner (Chassis N60, 22-RE engine) is Toyota P/N 19070-35130.
Thanks for a great video. Im having problems with my 92 Toyota 4runner, its giving me a weak spark. New Plugs, Cables, Dizzy, Ignitor, Coil. Still weak even when plug is grounded to the battery. Would a lesser than 5 volt signal from the ECU or a faulty ECU result in a weak spark?
I've got 12v to the coil. Still weak. My dizzy was replaced with cheap China shit. So would that possibly be the culprit? It did pass the resistance check though. I'm all out of ideas and am on the verge of waving the white flag.
Although you have 12v at the ignition coil do a load test to ensure there is sufficient current been supplied. Disconnect the ignition coil & replace with a bulb - a 12v headlight bulb say 55w should be fine. Turn on ignition switch & bulb should be bright. Cheers Andy
If the ignitor was momentarily opening ground with 5v trigger, then the continuity test would be beeping for the rest of the time. I’m I wrong in thinking that the ignitor is actually closing ground momentarily when triggered ?
Good morning Andy we swapped a 78 20R engine put it in a 77 Toyota truck the engine was running at 2500 RPMs prior to installation Runs beautiful,,, we found out that there's no hook up to the distributor in a 77 truck wiring harness It is different the 77 had a conventional distributor Point condenser with one wire going to the distributor since that's been removed, we're trying to figure out how to hook up to 2 wire lead on the 78 transistorized trigger wheel distributor without ruining it, any help would be greatly appreciated
What would cause these to fail? I can install a fresh one, starts and runs fine, turn off engine and go to start again and it won't start. Install new ignitor and it fires right up. Poor ground?
Thought this might be helpful. But my issue is 93 forerunner intermittant start wont run on. Checked fuel pump, coil, ignition relays. Etc Its got us stumped.
I have an 84 Celica. Sometimes there's no spark. It hasn't stranded me yet, and I don't want it to. It does this intermittingly, but it's starting to get more frequent. I haven't had any success with wiggling any wires. I'm trying to see if the pick-up in the distributor works. I have a test light, and a multimeter. The coil is a new NGK. The green plug this igniter plugs into the distributor --- the Ohms are good on the distributor side. However, with the key on, I get no volts on the plug. Am I doing something wrong? Shouldn't I be getting 12+ volts from that plug? Also, when I plug it back in, the key ON, I use a test light touching the pink wire where it's anchored, the light doesn't turn on. Again, am I doing something wrong? Shouldn't it light-up since the Ohms are good? Btw, the 'Line Voltage' is Good. Power Transistor is Good The shop manual has a diagram with a 2.5 volt battery to test the plug prongs, but that's what I used the volt meter for. The Shop manual doesn't explain what's suppose to happen when you test it with a 2.5 volt battery. I guess a 'real' mechanic would know. I think I've explained what I've done pretty accurately. I could use some advice. I'm thinking the ignighter has a short, and that's why the test light doesn't light when it plugged into the distributor. It has to be either the pic-up, or the igniter. . . I think, 🤔.
How on earth you got the ignition off the bracket I’ll never understand. Went to do my coil and both that and the igniter were rusted solid onto the bracket, ended up having to drill through the screws and replace them with bolts and nuts.
Hi Andy, will I damage my IGNITER if I interchanged the B+ to C {ignition coil signal)wires (the 2 wires ) on the right hand of the distributor ...(car: toyota corona exsior/carina/caldina...all ST!(! body frame)?...thank you
My 1994 22 r pickup won't fire. One day I went out to start it and it was dead after no symptoms and running fine. Not out of gas. I've put the coil wire to the body metal and there is a good spark when cranking it over. So coil and igniter assembly are good I guess. So that leaves the distributor. I've taken off the cap and all looks good-the rotor operates normally when cranking. Are there individual parts that might be bad in the distributor? Great videos you make.
since u know u have a good igniter nd good coil disconnect the coil wire at the coil get a test light to ground reach in close inside the coil dont touch the inside of the coil leave a half inch gap have someone crank it nd see if u have a bad coil wire make sure ur a good ground second crank it nd check ur rpm signal if u see it rise just a lil from zero u have a good crank sensor in the distributor also disconnect a injector use a noid light that fits the terminals cranck it if u have injector pulse u have good crank senor if u getting spark out the coil nd signal to the injectors 1.bad coil wire to the distributor 2. bad rotor inside the distributor hope this helps
Eli Gomez dear sir i Have camry 1993 model car is cranks but there no spark on cools cables and in coil so i checked connector which comes two pins for coil there power but there’s not ground what’s could be issue and where from will get ground supply signal there’s not ground signal only power 12v always on with turn on ignition i changed distributor assembly and igniter too
Little late for this probably but a visual spark doesn't mean the coil is good for sure. They can produce a weak spark that's not hot enough to fire the engine but still can see it jump. Might check timing to be sure. It's not out of gas but did you verify the gas is getting to the engine? If you can run a fuel pressure check.
Very true....important to test the distance the spark can 'jump' in atmosphere to get an idea of secondary voltage output capability of the coil. Thanks for your feedback. I did fix the fault though it's a few videos down the line! Cheers Andy
What about the output voltage to the primary circuit of the ignition coil? When i test with an oscilloscope i only get some 500mv on sine wave? That woyld be a problematic igniter in such case right?
I was told that I needed to pull the Crankshaft Pulley and so I did but I did not see the Crankshaft Position Sensor and there were no wires near this location. I pulled back the alternator back.. still did not see it ... darn
hi Andy, My 95 4runner has no sparks. I am not sure if the fault is my igniter or ECM. if there is no 5 volts at wire number 2 when i crank the engine over , is it safe to say that it is the ECM fault? my amf air mass flowmeter is not within specs wth the Factory spec. is it possible that the amf causes the ecm not giving me a 5 volts at the number 2 wire as well? Thank you in advance
Q can the module cause what seems to be timing adv/retrd issue .2000 lexus 470lx all diag so far (dealer) new coils -8 plugs-8 injectors -8 comp/leak down ok ,timming belt correct .vacuum leaks nope .runs like its missing a cylndr /timming messed up ...codes P303 and recently 1310 after injector replacemnt frustrated ....????
Sounds like the dealer fired the parts cannon! Well firstly they need to check to see if it's dropping a cylinder or the ignition timing is out. I would hope they had a scope so an easy check to see if a spark is been lost - current ramp on coil primary (this engine has individual coils mounted directly above the plugs. Ignition timing....another simple check with scope or timing light Now given the new parts fitted to date I'd be interested to see fuel pressure under full load - they will need to rig up fuel pressure gauge and go for a road test - if pump output is down you'll see fuel pressure drop off when you accelerate hard. I'm amazed they have fitted so many new parts - clearly at your expense to unfortunately Anyway, keep me posted on this one. One last note - just remind them of the word 'diagnostics - it's a process of elimination' Thanks for the fault codes too - I'll look up what these relate to when I get a chance. Cheers Andy
My 86 Toyota MR-2 Started, then immediately shut off and never started again... no spark at all. Only thing left to try is Ignition module pack EMC 89661 17020 MT and the part you are showing in this video. The EMC in trunk is my guess. or should I get them both?
Hmmm.....I'd check the 3 pickups in the distributor first as if ECU doesn't get these signals it won't trigger ignition or injectors because it can't 'see' the engine rotating. Cheers Andy
And then too, I did wire small 12 Volt heater this year directly to the poss and neg battery posts as recommended by some of the cars here on youtube same heater they recommended. If its anything like my old shoveled chopper it could have fried the ECU brain Box .I went through Many dozens of those but never a coil like you have in your video here Thanks@@AndyMechanic
I sure wish the igniter could be eliminated completely when using an aftermarket ignition box. I run a Mallory 6A (likely swapping it out for a Pertronix HP box within the next year) in my 1988 Land Cruiser, and it if weren't for the IGF signal wire back to the ECU from the igniter, I could deep six the igniter and simplify the circuit. As it is I have to retain the igniter and use that to trigger the Mallory box.
Heres a question im dealing with. i have an 86 toyota pickup truck 22r. recently its been having this issue where it starts up and runs fine when its cold and drives fine. but once its warmed up and eventually go to shut it off.. it will just crank and crank and crank. then i took just a screw driver hooked it to the coils lead that goes to the distributor and got it close as i can to grounding it with out it touching. cranked the truck over and no spark. local auto parts place said the coil could be losing its effectiveness when its hot. but not exactly sure if i should just buy one or test certain pins before hand.
When the fault occurs I suggest firstly checking the resistance of both the primary and secondary windings in the coil - one may go open circuit due to a break in the winding which opens up due to thermal expansion when coil is hot Also check the resistance. Of the crank and camshaft sensors - especially the crank. If the ignition system fails to see a crank signal then no spark will occur. Hope this helps Cheers Andy
Well, your video is good, I screwed up when I measured voltages at the igniter, I did it with the plug off, OUCH I ended up going nuts, they read good, MY BAD, I should have checked them with a fine pin while the connector was on the connection broke when on, I ended up paying someone to find that
Manufacturer diagnostic strategies that piss me off to no end... "Install a known good PCM(ICM, Igniter, etc, etc), if the problem goes away, install a new PCM"
Igniter vs Points distributor vs HEI I have a 1990 Lincoln Town with the Windsor V8. Looking for tune-up advice, how to get the best fuel efficiency. upgrading does sound like less maintenance but questioning ROI Return On Investment? btw the car has sat for 8 years and running well on warm days. but if I don't let it warm up 20* F or colder and try to drive off after 10 min it seems rough until it gets to operating temp. also after 45 to 1hr idle to op temp. it will kill the motor most of the time when I change gears R or D. I haven't noticed during warmer days dying during gear change but I have only had it for three weeks?
I have a 96 tacoma cranks but wont start, guy said he shorted the battery terminals, I messed with the ignition back and forth and got it started but now when I use to much power lights it shuts down then barely starts up but runs. Radio flickers. Lights work but when I put a load it dims shakes and shuts off??? I'm gonna try replacing it my Code is P1300 that's all
@@AndyMechanic hey mate was just wondering if you would know the firing order of a Toyota Corona 2.4 L 1985 model ignition pack? Also what other vehicles would have the same system that I could use from Wrecking??
Andy, I have an issue where the car cranks over excessively but it starts after a while and runs fine but with a low idle. I get a code 14 that Toyota says is a no IGF signal. Is it possible that a mix up of the wiring from the 'igniter' to the distributor be the cause? It is the same igniter (201) like the one in your video. I changed the distributor, test the spark plug wires as well, tried a different coil & checked for continuity in the wires to ECU-no issues
Hi Patrick, in my experience the engine won't run if the IGF signal doesn't meet the required criteria. The ECU will stop fuel injection after initial start up if no acceptable IGF signal present. The IGT is a command signal sent from the ECU to the ignitor to control and trigger a spark event. If the wires were swapped over I'm sure the engine would not run. The code may be historic from an event where the IGF didn't meet the accepted criteria for more than 7 IGT commanded pulses. It may be that there is an issue with the ignitor, coil, ECU itself (it puts out a 5v on the IGF wire and ignitor pulls this voltage to ground to create the switched signal. It could even be a fault on the wiring/connectors on the IGF circuit between ECU and ignitor. You'll need a scope to 'see' the IGF signal so suggest you test the ignition coil primary and secondary resistance - also do a spark test to see how 'strong' the spark is. Do a resistance check on the wiring too. If all this looks good then it's likely to be the ignitor. Though, as in the case of the MR2 it could be the ECU - they are known to fail on this circuit too. Long crank time has nothing to do with the IGF - the ECU ignores this signal until after the engine has fired for the first time - suggest you check residual fuel pressure as could be a fault with fuel pump non-return valve or failed fuel rail pressure regulator. Hope this helps.
Hey Andy will a faulty igniter cause power loss when engine is hot after a long trip having this problem runs great when idle but not in drive can use some help
Hello, very informative video! Whats the big bolt number denotes? You Used CHD1 instead of 201? are these interchangeable? how to find right or compatible one?
nice pickup, my 1994, 22re, standard, 5 speed, with 313,000 miles failed me last Friday, the engine stopped on the Miami turnpike at 70 miles per hour, it is giving me the code 12, it is not the distributor, it can be the coil or the igniter too, it could be that some cable is broken or it went to ground because the ECU is not receiving the signal and it is not the ECU because it would not give me codes, long way ahead, if someone has had the same experience let me know so I don't go blind, without work, with little money I can't take her to the mechanic, I have to do it, please help. Thanks.
Hi Andy, I need to wire a toyota 4af (carbureted AE92 model) with the bosch distributor with the ignitor on the distributor. It is in a project that only needs bare basic wiring ie charging, start and ignition. Any chance of a diagram for the ignition system to get it running? I just dont want to burn anything out and have been confirmed as the worlds worst auto electrician (official). It has 4 wires on the ignitor but only two wires coming out of distributor. Any help would be fantastic. Regards John
good video👍🏻, my brother 95 corolla shuts off when he comes to a stop and the batterie lights comes out, we got a new batteries and had the distributor replaced a while ago. could it be the igniter chip? thanks.
Probably a dry solder joint or blown capacitor. I'd try replacing it. If that doesn't fix the issue then likely a blown capacitor in the ECU unfortunately Cheers Andy
hello Andy I'm having some trouble with my 22're toyota engine where it just starts up for like 5 seconds and then shuts down even quicker if I try to rev it I changed fuel pump checked fuel line checked injectors by plugging other injectors onto the line and that's when I found out they aren't firing,tested the wires and the injectors are getting the 12 volt but it seems it's not getting the pulse ground from computer so long story short I started to check the igniter cause I see that it is supposed to send signal to the ecu so the ecu would fire the injectors and the engine only runs for couple sec of the cold start injector so was wondering if you could give me a shortcut to your vid on making that thing with the 2 little lights so I can test mines and can I just test it while it's plugged up to see if it's send out signal to ecu
@@AndyMechanic i have a toyota corona3sfe replaced the ignition coil condenser still no spark is that wat i have to replace no start cond check all relay fuses ok
I have the same problem stuck all kinds of parts in it still only runs a few seconds on the cold start injector than backfires an dies. Just wondering if you figured out your problems
My toyota corolla started misfiring yesterday, it's a 5 speed, if I don't give it quite a bit of gas, it will cut off. I was told it was the igniter circuit. Can anyone tell me where its located under the hood.
would an engine code fault be stored at all on an old obd 1 system or would that only apply to obd 2 systems? I have a 90 Camry 2.0 that seems to run perfect most of the time then usually after it's good and warmed up you turn it off to go in the store then return and it'll run perfect for maybe 10 seconds or so then all spark suddenly stops. It runs perfect for those 10 seconds though even accelerating or anything. I'm wandering if it's the igniter as I've read they switch from turning the coil on at full power at start up to running it lower power during operation to make it start a cold engine better which leads me to thinking maybe it is the igniter. Do the igniters really operate this way? I never notice the check engine light to do anything. It's definitely the spark ceasing to all cylinders at once. Sound like an igniter/icm to you? I wish I had all the equipment to test it. By the way thanks for the videos as they're really helpful!
The ECU does not look at the feedback signal on the IGF until a few seconds after start up. So, if you have a bad ignitor OR poor 5v output on the IGF pin of the ECU then you have the same fault as shown in the MR2 series of videos. Hope this helps Andy
@@AndyMechanic thanks that's a great help! One more question if you don't mind. Do you think it's possible at all to be a weak ground connection that could be the problem since it's only after the cars been ran and warmed up a good 20 min? Or would it be safest to bet on icm or ecu as the culprit? I also seen something in some forums about these cars having a problem with a radio interference filter shorting out that can cause problems but I feel the symptoms don't match up well to that but I'm no expert for sure. What I thought was strange is how the car seems to run perfect no matter how long I run it the first start then when you turn the key off and on again it'll start that run perfect for 15 seconds and die type of thing again. Strange how good it starts right up and runs then just dies a moment later. I tried running a timing light and revving the engine just before it dies to make sure the engine was still rotating with the ignition on and the fire just totally stops. Thanks for the help!
Sounds to me like it's exactly the same as the issue I had. Turned out to be a faulty capacitor inside the ECU. You could put a multimeter on the IGF wire and measure voltage with ignition turned on but engine off when the fault occurs. If it's not 5 volts then you have found your problem Cheers Andy
I have a big problem.. I cant find my Crankshaft Position Sensor.. I have check everywhere.. I have a 1994 Toyota DLX Pickup 2.4 L Engine 22RE Does anyone know please? Thank you in advance.
It may not have one. Instead the pickup may be inside the distributor like on the 1992 MR2 I worked on a few months ago. There are videos on this on the channel. With the MR2 there are in fact 3 pickups inside the distributor, each supplying a signal to the ECU What's the fault with your pickup? Cheers Andy
Andy Mechanic : Hi Andy, nice pickup, my 1994, 22re, standard, 5 speed, with 313,000 miles failed me last Friday, the engine stopped on the Miami turnpike at 70 miles per hour, it is giving me the code 12, it is not the distributor, it can be the coil or the igniter too, it could be that some cable is broken or it went to ground because the ECU is not receiving the signal and it is not the ECU because it would not give me codes, long way ahead, if someone has had the same experience let me know so I don't go blind, without work, with little money I can't take her to the mechanic, I have to do it, please help. Thanks.
Hi Andy, I have an issue with my 99 Toyota rav4, its throwing a p0340 code, I've replaced coils, timing belt, cam sensor, checked crank sensor, new spark plugs! It runs but only on two cylinders, cylinders 1 and 4 are firing but not at correct time, any ideas?
Hello was wondering if someone could help my car is a JDM 93 supra 2jzge non vvti engine starts then runs for a few seconds then stalls, or stalls as soon as the throttle is given. I’ve ran codes and have 24 & 31 which is maf sensor related however my car has a map sensor. I’ve replaced so far the valve cover gaskets cleaned pcv valve installed new distributor cap rotor button spark plugs and spark plug wires still have same issue if someone could help me diagnose further or may know a solution that I’m not thinking about I would appreciate it thank you.
Very good but where dose it mount and how to install it, please and dose it supply all 4 plugs with spark ??? Somebody PLEASE Help... I have a number 4 misfire. And a new coil and plug did not fix ....the code.
Hi David, the igniter acts as a relay, grounding the coil to provide a spark for each cylinder - the timing controlled by the ECU As all ignition parts are common to all cylinders except for the distributor cap, HT leads and spark plug itself these are the parts I'd be checking if getting a cylinder specific code. Hope this helps Cheers Andy
Andy Mechanic I have a kit car with a 3sge in my work shop that is running a set of carbs and no ecu it runs till it gets warm and dies coil is fine distributor has been rebuilt. Next step will be to look at igniter if i can find it and test the wiring between them.
Hmmm.....possibly a fuel pump pressure issue as this wouldn't trigger a fault code. There are many variables here so hard to diagnose without lots of testing...
Hi everyone here, I have a problem can’t start 1988 landcruiser. I don’t want to spend 500$ for igniter , truck don’t have spark , I change coil and distributor cap and rotor crank ok , just park truck for 15min come back can’t start weird. Thanks
Check for 5v on IGF pin on ECU with ignition ON engine not running. If it's higher then you have a capacitor issue inside the ECU. Also check for continuity on pickup coils in distributor.
hello how are you my car is alto 2006 model issue is that regular oil change to other oil caltas change oil is shell manic are told engine ring issue estimate cost high i cant effort high expensive please suggestion and resolve my issue .
+QAISER FAROOQUI Hi, Qaiser, I think you are talking about having to fit new piston rings to your engine? If this is the case then, yes, it is quite an expensive job as the cylinder head needs to be removed, as does the sump. The cylinders will need a hone, this can be done with the block still in the car which does save a lot of labour. It is an expensive job though. The only alternative is to find a good second hand engine and fit that. Hope this is what you were asking about.. Cheers Andy
I have a 1994 Toyota DLX Extended Cab Pickup 2.4 Liter L4 22RE Engine .. I was told the Crankshaft Position Sensor is in the Distributor ? Is this True ?
I HAVE A 1978 corolla WITH A 2tc if anyone has advice on my no spark issue it would be much appreciated I’ve already replaced my battery alternator and my coil
Man after doing plugs, wires, ignition coils, timing belt, fuel filter, distributors etc i fkin pray to the car gods this is my issue for no power after 3k rpm
This is cool and all to know about, but what’s the fuckin fix how do you get an igniter for an old Toyota.. I’ve asked parts stores and looked it up online they’re non existent
There are Chinese copies you can buy online. I was lucky to get one on ebay out of the US for $20. They sent me 2 but only charged me for one! Someone has a stack of them somewhere. Good Luck Andy
Andy Mechanic I find that hard to believe seeing how all the parts stores and stuff like that said the part is non existent. the one I need is for an 88 ae92 I look online and none look like what I need
Ah. Well there are a few different ones. Can you email me a picture of the label on the ignitor - this has the Toyota part number & I'll make some enquiries here in NZ. We have a lot of scrap Toyotas here from that era. Email is andymechanic@live.co.uk Cheers Andy
I want to thank you very much! My 1997 Celica died and had to be towed home. I confirmed that there was no ignition spark and suspected the igniter module. I was pretty sure that was the problem and ordered a used one on ebay. Then I saw your video and ran the test you described. Using a VOM to detect the output when the 5V input was pulsed did not show any output. But when I hooked up an oscilloscope I could see the output. I continued troubleshooting, confirmed the coil in the distributor was good and the signal coil showed good as well. But when I tried to check continuity through the distributor rotor I not only could not get any resistance measurement, but the rotor fell apart in my hands! That rotor was only a couple of years old, too! So I replaced the rotor with a new one from Toyota and the car ran fine. Then the used igniter came in the mail and the test showed it was bad, a fact confirmed by trying it out in the car, which produced no start. Thanks!
Great work, it's good to know this video was helpful to you. A relatively cheap fix then to fit a new rotor, lucky it didn't damage any other components.
Thanks for the feedback, all the best. Andy
5v power supply? Use a car cigarette lighter USB adapter. What you charge your phone with in the car? USB standard is 5v, so slice off the micro USB/lightning end, peel back the insulation, and the red wire is your 5v+. Black is your ground.
Hi Andy, thanks for the video. I diagnosed a faulty igniter on a 4 cylinder camry following your method. Extra information for anyone wondering - my igniter was still switching when given a 5 volt trigger signal, but the output signal was only 0.75 volts. Bench testing the new igniter prior to installation showed the switched output at 5 volts.
Curious, was the faulty igniter allowing your engine to run at all or just run very rough with no power?
@@jmaverick it would run fine most of the time, then occasionally skip/misfire or stall. This was a few years ago but I think this video helped with another problem I had with this car where it would intermittently stall and refuse to fire again. Eventually it just died altogether one day in my driveway. That ended up being a faulty engine computer.
Sounds like the original fault was the capacitor failure in the ECU as I had with the MR2.
@@AndyMechanic they were probably both failing concurrently. The new igniter kept me going for a couple more months before the problem got worse again and it turns completely, and I ended up tracing it back to the ECU.
@@dvspeter I was able to finally get my truck repaired. Crank Crank Crank and no start ended up mostly being the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Replaced it and the plugs AGAIN and it fired right up and drove it down the road. Thanks for all your info
nice to see there are still mechanics /teachers showing younger gen how to find the underlying problem. Instead of dumping a bucket of guess parts at it ,yup no start ,don't check the fuel gauge nope new motor should fix it, if not hell put as tranny in it ,your choice in the passenger seat or under the car.
I find your videos really interesting and you explain everything really well. Keep it up
Fantastic presentation
A man of enormous knowledge
Great video thanks. I hate the "cannot" test or gaps in the manual. This was the only "black box" for me in my Carona ignition system (the rest is so basic '93 spec lol).
excellent content, i suspect an igniter module on my 96 toyota now and this was super helpful. thank you.
this is awesome thank you so much. I wish more videos were like this, gave me everything i need to know
Hi Andy I got this exaclty problem, I'm waiting for the igniter tomorrow. Let's see.
Hi Andy where is the igniter located on a toyota carina 1.8 petrol engine
Great andy, our wondering minds keep us searching, let no one tell u , u cant test a thing, or that person awakens Andy!😎🤣great persuverance mate!
So great explaining.
please, i need to inform me about the 2 and 3 and 4 lines cop ignition module types testing ways.
Many thanks
Thanks for the reply ,sorry for the lack of info but this has been going on for two years and three different dealers,so memory's kinda slow remembering all the tests. She has been sitting in a heated building were i recently have had some time to take her out for a ride and try to figure this out ,i for some reason had a suspicion it was a injector/fuel problem so i removed the injectors sent them out and fuel filter was rattling have had built a few engines earlier i cut it open and found the back plate to the filter was no longer secured to the inner barrel,the filter was extremely blocked with some sort of muddy gel . Im only guessing when the pressure built up it blew the plate off and pressed it against the outlet hole ., finally i figured it out replace fuel filter ,remove tank ,because i have nothing better to do lol , clean lines get injectors back and long behold . I think its actually worse .same issue no change except new code 1310 igniter something or other, never seen this one before?first start up 20 to 30 sec or so it runs like a Rolex as soon as it starts to idle down from the choke i can hear the misfire and if i put it in gear and apply small load it painfully auvious threes a miss but it seems to be not on every fireing order seq. it misses and for a few seconds it instantly clears up and goes back to missing as if its only sparking one or two out of every req 10-20 times??? cam sensor crank sens igniter what do i shove down her windpipe before i send this cranky xxxx to her long term care facility......help,love the chanel been glued since discovered
Cheers for the info. I'd be really tempted to test fuel line pressure first, just to eliminate the fuel system completely.
Then it's really time to get hold of an oscilloscope so you can capture the waveforms of crank sensor, injector pulse and of course ignition. It could be a bad coil, igniter or crank sensor (if you have a distributor on your engine, like the one in the video, then they have a cam sensor & not a crank sensor.
Capturing each signal is shown in the videos.
You can pick up a scope pretty cheap these days. PicoScope 2000 series is only a couple of hundred $$.
Good luck.
Cheers Andy
Excellent …….thanks Andy ! Keep your brain fed, may need more solutions soon, cheers
Good day Andy! Just wanna ask a question, can a distributer car used four independent coil on each cylinder
Great video! Thanks for sharing your hard work with us.
I been searching for solutions to using msd ignition supplies.
However the barrear i face is dealing with the distributor, it has internal coil.
96 toyota 4runner. Has the same exciter in this video.
Good info and good video.... but is no one going to say anything about that dang fly buzzing around?
Video link where Andy Mechanic creates the logic probe:
ua-cam.com/video/4TH6zSdFlhA/v-deo.html
Note: Two ignitors are tested/featured in this video. The first ignitor, Ignitor 201 is Toyota P/N 89621-12050 and is removed from a 1992 Toyota MR2 (W20 Chassis, 3S-GE engine). The second ignitor, Ignitor CHD1 is Toyota P/N 89621-16020 and is removed from a Toyota RAV4 (Chassis and engine are unknown; no mention made).
An ignitor removed from a 1985 Toyota 4Runner (Chassis N60, 22-RE engine) is Toyota P/N 19070-35130.
Hi andy, nice to meet you, what type models and brand is the oscilloscope? Regards
Thanks for a great video. Im having problems with my 92 Toyota 4runner, its giving me a weak spark. New Plugs, Cables, Dizzy, Ignitor, Coil. Still weak even when plug is grounded to the battery. Would a lesser than 5 volt signal from the ECU or a faulty ECU result in a weak spark?
No, a weak spark will likely be a poor 12v+ feed to the coil.
I've got 12v to the coil. Still weak. My dizzy was replaced with cheap China shit. So would that possibly be the culprit? It did pass the resistance check though. I'm all out of ideas and am on the verge of waving the white flag.
Although you have 12v at the ignition coil do a load test to ensure there is sufficient current been supplied. Disconnect the ignition coil & replace with a bulb - a 12v headlight bulb say 55w should be fine. Turn on ignition switch & bulb should be bright.
Cheers Andy
Wired up an igniter and a coil according to your video demonstration, got well
Thanks for the help... ✌️
You didn’t show us how to set up the 9v batteries. I don’t have that fancy adjuster
Hello, do you know where is the igniter located in a Toyota celica gt 2000, thanks and really nice videos, you are very good. keep it up.
If the ignitor was momentarily opening ground with 5v trigger, then the continuity test would be beeping for the rest of the time. I’m I wrong in thinking that the ignitor is actually closing ground momentarily when triggered ?
Is that mounted on the fender with a little chip card plugged into it??
With the ignition control module plugged into it*
Could have used an LED for the blip of conduction. (Cheaper than an oscilloscope.)
Hey Andy very good info
Super helpful, thanks a bunch
Good morning Andy we swapped a 78 20R engine put it in a 77 Toyota truck the engine was running at 2500 RPMs prior to installation Runs beautiful,,, we found out that there's no hook up to the distributor in a 77 truck wiring harness It is different the 77 had a conventional distributor Point condenser with one wire going to the distributor since that's been removed, we're trying to figure out how to hook up to 2 wire lead on the 78 transistorized trigger wheel distributor without ruining it, any help would be greatly appreciated
What would cause these to fail? I can install a fresh one, starts and runs fine, turn off engine and go to start again and it won't start. Install new ignitor and it fires right up. Poor ground?
Do you know where the ICM is on a 2000 Toyota celica is?, I’ve been looking at pin out diagrams but it never shows the ignition control module
Thought this might be helpful. But my issue is 93 forerunner intermittant start wont run on. Checked fuel pump, coil, ignition relays. Etc
Its got us stumped.
I have an 84 Celica. Sometimes there's no spark. It hasn't stranded me yet, and I don't want it to. It does this intermittingly, but it's starting to get more frequent. I haven't had any success with wiggling any wires. I'm trying to see if the pick-up in the distributor works. I have a test light, and a multimeter. The coil is a new NGK.
The green plug this igniter plugs into the distributor --- the Ohms are good on the distributor side. However, with the key on, I get no volts on the plug. Am I doing something wrong? Shouldn't I be getting 12+ volts from that plug?
Also, when I plug it back in, the key ON, I use a test light touching the pink wire where it's anchored, the light doesn't turn on. Again, am I doing something wrong? Shouldn't it light-up since the Ohms are good?
Btw, the 'Line Voltage' is Good.
Power Transistor is Good
The shop manual has a diagram with a 2.5 volt battery to test the plug prongs, but that's what I used the volt meter for. The Shop manual doesn't explain what's suppose to happen when you test it with a 2.5 volt battery. I guess a 'real' mechanic would know.
I think I've explained what I've done pretty accurately. I could use some advice. I'm thinking the ignighter has a short, and that's why the test light doesn't light when it plugged into the distributor. It has to be either the pic-up, or the igniter. . . I think, 🤔.
How on earth you got the ignition off the bracket I’ll never understand. Went to do my coil and both that and the igniter were rusted solid onto the bracket, ended up having to drill through the screws and replace them with bolts and nuts.
Hi Andy, will I damage my IGNITER if I interchanged the B+ to C {ignition coil signal)wires (the 2 wires ) on the right hand of the distributor ...(car: toyota corona exsior/carina/caldina...all ST!(! body frame)?...thank you
My 1994 22 r pickup won't fire. One day I went out to start it and it was dead after no symptoms and running fine. Not out of gas. I've put the coil wire to the body metal and there is a good spark when cranking it over. So coil and igniter assembly are good I guess. So that leaves the distributor. I've taken off the cap and all looks good-the rotor operates normally when cranking. Are there individual parts that might be bad in the distributor? Great videos you make.
since u know u have a good igniter nd good coil disconnect the coil wire at the coil get a test light to ground reach in close inside the coil dont touch the inside of the coil leave a half inch gap have someone crank it nd see if u have a bad coil wire make sure ur a good ground second crank it nd check ur rpm signal if u see it rise just a lil from zero u have a good crank sensor in the distributor also disconnect a injector use a noid light that fits the terminals cranck it if u have injector pulse u have good crank senor if u getting spark out the coil nd signal to the injectors 1.bad coil wire to the distributor 2. bad rotor inside the distributor hope this helps
Eli Gomez dear sir i Have camry 1993 model car is cranks but there no spark on cools cables and in coil so i checked connector which comes two pins for coil there power but there’s not ground what’s could be issue and where from will get ground supply signal there’s not ground signal only power 12v always on with turn on ignition i changed distributor assembly and igniter too
Little late for this probably but a visual spark doesn't mean the coil is good for sure. They can produce a weak spark that's not hot enough to fire the engine but still can see it jump. Might check timing to be sure. It's not out of gas but did you verify the gas is getting to the engine? If you can run a fuel pressure check.
Very true....important to test the distance the spark can 'jump' in atmosphere to get an idea of secondary voltage output capability of the coil.
Thanks for your feedback. I did fix the fault though it's a few videos down the line!
Cheers
Andy
What about the output voltage to the primary circuit of the ignition coil?
When i test with an oscilloscope i only get some 500mv on sine wave?
That woyld be a problematic igniter in such case right?
I was told that I needed to pull the Crankshaft Pulley and so I did but I did not see the Crankshaft Position Sensor and there were no wires near this location. I pulled back the alternator back.. still did not see it ... darn
hi Andy, My 95 4runner has no sparks. I am not sure if the fault is my igniter or ECM. if there is no 5 volts at wire number 2 when i crank the engine over , is it safe to say that it is the ECM fault? my amf air mass flowmeter is not within specs wth the Factory spec. is it possible that the amf causes the ecm not giving me a 5 volts at the number 2 wire as well? Thank you in advance
Q can the module cause what seems to be timing adv/retrd issue .2000 lexus 470lx all diag so far (dealer) new coils -8 plugs-8 injectors -8 comp/leak down ok ,timming belt correct .vacuum leaks nope .runs like its missing a cylndr /timming messed up ...codes P303 and recently 1310 after injector replacemnt
frustrated ....????
Sounds like the dealer fired the parts cannon!
Well firstly they need to check to see if it's dropping a cylinder or the ignition timing is out.
I would hope they had a scope so an easy check to see if a spark is been lost - current ramp on coil primary (this engine has individual coils mounted directly above the plugs.
Ignition timing....another simple check with scope or timing light
Now given the new parts fitted to date I'd be interested to see fuel pressure under full load - they will need to rig up fuel pressure gauge and go for a road test - if pump output is down you'll see fuel pressure drop off when you accelerate hard.
I'm amazed they have fitted so many new parts - clearly at your expense to unfortunately
Anyway, keep me posted on this one.
One last note - just remind them of the word 'diagnostics - it's a process of elimination'
Thanks for the fault codes too - I'll look up what these relate to when I get a chance.
Cheers Andy
My 86 Toyota MR-2 Started, then immediately shut off and never started again... no spark at all. Only thing left to try is Ignition module pack EMC 89661 17020 MT and the part you are showing in this video. The EMC in trunk is my guess. or should I get them both?
Hmmm.....I'd check the 3 pickups in the distributor first as if ECU doesn't get these signals it won't trigger ignition or injectors because it can't 'see' the engine rotating.
Cheers Andy
And then too, I did wire small 12 Volt heater this year directly to the poss and neg battery posts as recommended by some of the cars here on youtube same heater they recommended. If its anything like my old shoveled chopper it could have fried the ECU brain Box .I went through Many dozens of those but never a coil like you have in your video here Thanks@@AndyMechanic
Thanks was very helpful, SUBBED!
I sure wish the igniter could be eliminated completely when using an aftermarket ignition box. I run a Mallory 6A (likely swapping it out for a Pertronix HP box within the next year) in my 1988 Land Cruiser, and it if weren't for the IGF signal wire back to the ECU from the igniter, I could deep six the igniter and simplify the circuit. As it is I have to retain the igniter and use that to trigger the Mallory box.
Heres a question im dealing with. i have an 86 toyota pickup truck 22r.
recently its been having this issue where it starts up and runs fine when its cold and drives fine. but once its warmed up and eventually go to shut it off.. it will just crank and crank and crank. then i took just a screw driver hooked it to the coils lead that goes to the distributor and got it close as i can to grounding it with out it touching. cranked the truck over and no spark.
local auto parts place said the coil could be losing its effectiveness when its hot. but not exactly sure if i should just buy one or test certain pins before hand.
When the fault occurs I suggest firstly checking the resistance of both the primary and secondary windings in the coil - one may go open circuit due to a break in the winding which opens up due to thermal expansion when coil is hot
Also check the resistance. Of the crank and camshaft sensors - especially the crank. If the ignition system fails to see a crank signal then no spark will occur.
Hope this helps
Cheers Andy
Well, your video is good, I screwed up when I measured voltages at the igniter, I did it with the plug off, OUCH I ended up going nuts, they read good, MY BAD, I should have checked them with a fine pin while the connector was on the connection broke when on, I ended up paying someone to find that
What about the 22re igniter? Did u kanakas have those motors?
Manufacturer diagnostic strategies that piss me off to no end... "Install a known good PCM(ICM, Igniter, etc, etc), if the problem goes away, install a new PCM"
Thank you for the video.
Igniter vs Points distributor vs HEI
I have a 1990 Lincoln Town with the Windsor V8. Looking for tune-up advice, how to get the best fuel efficiency. upgrading does sound like less maintenance but questioning ROI Return On Investment? btw the car has sat for 8 years and running well on warm days. but if I don't let it warm up 20* F or colder and try to drive off after 10 min it seems rough until it gets to operating temp. also after 45 to 1hr idle to op temp. it will kill the motor most of the time when I change gears R or D. I haven't noticed during warmer days dying during gear change but I have only had it for three weeks?
I have a 96 tacoma cranks but wont start, guy said he shorted the battery terminals, I messed with the ignition back and forth and got it started but now when I use to much power lights it shuts down then barely starts up but runs. Radio flickers. Lights work but when I put a load it dims shakes and shuts off??? I'm gonna try replacing it my Code is P1300 that's all
thanks for making these videos. super helpful!
Thanks for watching. Pleased you enjoyed it.
See you next time. Cheers Andy
@@AndyMechanic hey mate was just wondering if you would know the firing order of a Toyota Corona 2.4 L 1985 model ignition pack?
Also what other vehicles would have the same system that I could use from Wrecking??
Andy, I have an issue where the car cranks over excessively but it starts after a while and runs fine but with a low idle. I get a code 14 that Toyota says is a no IGF signal. Is it possible that a mix up of the wiring from the 'igniter' to the distributor be the cause? It is the same igniter (201) like the one in your video. I changed the distributor, test the spark plug wires as well, tried a different coil & checked for continuity in the wires to ECU-no issues
Hi Patrick, in my experience the engine won't run if the IGF signal doesn't meet the required criteria. The ECU will stop fuel injection after initial start up if no acceptable IGF signal present. The IGT is a command signal sent from the ECU to the ignitor to control and trigger a spark event. If the wires were swapped over I'm sure the engine would not run.
The code may be historic from an event where the IGF didn't meet the accepted criteria for more than 7 IGT commanded pulses.
It may be that there is an issue with the ignitor, coil, ECU itself (it puts out a 5v on the IGF wire and ignitor pulls this voltage to ground to create the switched signal. It could even be a fault on the wiring/connectors on the IGF circuit between ECU and ignitor.
You'll need a scope to 'see' the IGF signal so suggest you test the ignition coil primary and secondary resistance - also do a spark test to see how 'strong' the spark is. Do a resistance check on the wiring too. If all this looks good then it's likely to be the ignitor. Though, as in the case of the MR2 it could be the ECU - they are known to fail on this circuit too.
Long crank time has nothing to do with the IGF - the ECU ignores this signal until after the engine has fired for the first time - suggest you check residual fuel pressure as could be a fault with fuel pump non-return valve or failed fuel rail pressure regulator.
Hope this helps.
Thanks Andy
Is there replacements for a 78 Celica? What can I do if the igniter goes bad. Can’t seem to find a replacement
What about if has some spark on coil touching metal air intake but no on spark plug
Hey Andy will a faulty igniter cause power loss when engine is hot after a long trip having this problem runs great when idle but not in drive can use some help
Hello,
very informative video!
Whats the big bolt number denotes? You Used CHD1 instead of 201? are these interchangeable? how to find right or compatible one?
I'm not too sure on those codes. 8.8 or 10.9 etc denotes the bolt's strength.
Cheers Andy
nice pickup, my 1994, 22re, standard, 5 speed, with 313,000 miles failed me last Friday, the engine stopped on the Miami turnpike at 70 miles per hour, it is giving me the code 12, it is not the distributor, it can be the coil or the igniter too, it could be that some cable is broken or it went to ground because the ECU is not receiving the signal and it is not the ECU because it would not give me codes, long way ahead, if someone has had the same experience let me know so I don't go blind, without work, with little money I can't take her to the mechanic, I have to do it, please help. Thanks.
Can you please tell me where the ignitor is located on 06 Toyota matrix
Hi, so where's wire #1 hooked up to? And #2 is hooked up to - of ign. coil? Tia
Where is this part located in the car? Ty for the vid
It's usually near to the ignition coil.
Cheers Andy
Hi Andy, I need to wire a toyota 4af (carbureted AE92 model) with the bosch distributor with the ignitor on the distributor. It is in a project that only needs bare basic wiring ie charging, start and ignition. Any chance of a diagram for the ignition system to get it running? I just dont want to burn anything out and have been confirmed as the worlds worst auto electrician (official). It has 4 wires on the ignitor but only two wires coming out of distributor. Any help would be fantastic. Regards John
Awesome video. Keep it up Andy!
good video👍🏻, my brother 95 corolla shuts off when he comes to a stop and the batterie lights comes out, we got a new batteries and had the distributor replaced a while ago. could it be the igniter chip? thanks.
Where is the ignition ignition located. I have a 2000 tundra
Best ask Eric O at South Main Auto channel as we don't get that model here in NZ.
Cheers Andy
Where is the ignition igniter located
Next to the ignition coil on this car
Cheers Andy
when i worked for toyota cranking and cars equipped with tach if needle didnt bounce while cranking on tach no good
What is the toyota model of this igniter ?
My igniter in my '94 truck works but fails when it heats up.
Probably a dry solder joint or blown capacitor. I'd try replacing it. If that doesn't fix the issue then likely a blown capacitor in the ECU unfortunately
Cheers Andy
@@AndyMechanic I would suggest testing these while heating them.
hello Andy I'm having some trouble with my 22're toyota engine where it just starts up for like 5 seconds and then shuts down even quicker if I try to rev it I changed fuel pump checked fuel line checked injectors by plugging other injectors onto the line and that's when I found out they aren't firing,tested the wires and the injectors are getting the 12 volt but it seems it's not getting the pulse ground from computer so long story short I started to check the igniter cause I see that it is supposed to send signal to the ecu so the ecu would fire the injectors and the engine only runs for couple sec of the cold start injector so was wondering if you could give me a shortcut to your vid on making that thing with the 2 little lights so I can test mines and can I just test it while it's plugged up to see if it's send out signal to ecu
+Kirkland Banton ua-cam.com/video/4TH6zSdFlhA/v-deo.html
+Kirkland Banton let me know how you get on :-) check spark too. If spark also stops then suspect crank angle sensor.
+Andy Mechanic thanks bro
@@AndyMechanic i have a toyota corona3sfe replaced the ignition coil condenser still no spark is that wat i have to replace no start cond check all relay fuses ok
I have the same problem stuck all kinds of parts in it still only runs a few seconds on the cold start injector than backfires an dies. Just wondering if you figured out your problems
Cell charger might work to test igniter
What if you don't have a rav4 connector?
My toyota corolla started misfiring yesterday, it's a 5 speed, if I don't give it quite a bit of gas, it will cut off. I was told it was the igniter circuit. Can anyone tell me where its located under the hood.
Usually quite close to the ignition coil.
Hope this helps. Cheers Andy
would an engine code fault be stored at all on an old obd 1 system or would that only apply to obd 2 systems? I have a 90 Camry 2.0 that seems to run perfect most of the time then usually after it's good and warmed up you turn it off to go in the store then return and it'll run perfect for maybe 10 seconds or so then all spark suddenly stops. It runs perfect for those 10 seconds though even accelerating or anything. I'm wandering if it's the igniter as I've read they switch from turning the coil on at full power at start up to running it lower power during operation to make it start a cold engine better which leads me to thinking maybe it is the igniter. Do the igniters really operate this way? I never notice the check engine light to do anything. It's definitely the spark ceasing to all cylinders at once. Sound like an igniter/icm to you? I wish I had all the equipment to test it. By the way thanks for the videos as they're really helpful!
The ECU does not look at the feedback signal on the IGF until a few seconds after start up. So, if you have a bad ignitor OR poor 5v output on the IGF pin of the ECU then you have the same fault as shown in the MR2 series of videos.
Hope this helps
Andy
@@AndyMechanic thanks that's a great help! One more question if you don't mind. Do you think it's possible at all to be a weak ground connection that could be the problem since it's only after the cars been ran and warmed up a good 20 min? Or would it be safest to bet on icm or ecu as the culprit? I also seen something in some forums about these cars having a problem with a radio interference filter shorting out that can cause problems but I feel the symptoms don't match up well to that but I'm no expert for sure. What I thought was strange is how the car seems to run perfect no matter how long I run it the first start then when you turn the key off and on again it'll start that run perfect for 15 seconds and die type of thing again. Strange how good it starts right up and runs then just dies a moment later. I tried running a timing light and revving the engine just before it dies to make sure the engine was still rotating with the ignition on and the fire just totally stops. Thanks for the help!
Sounds to me like it's exactly the same as the issue I had. Turned out to be a faulty capacitor inside the ECU. You could put a multimeter on the IGF wire and measure voltage with ignition turned on but engine off when the fault occurs. If it's not 5 volts then you have found your problem
Cheers Andy
@@AndyMechanic thanks a lot! Now I just have to figure out how to find the igf wire
Remove the ECU & open the lid (4 screws) you'll see each pin labelled up on the circuit board :-)
I have a big problem.. I cant find my Crankshaft Position Sensor.. I have check everywhere.. I have a 1994 Toyota DLX Pickup 2.4 L Engine 22RE Does anyone know please? Thank you in advance.
It may not have one. Instead the pickup may be inside the distributor like on the 1992 MR2 I worked on a few months ago. There are videos on this on the channel. With the MR2 there are in fact 3 pickups inside the distributor, each supplying a signal to the ECU
What's the fault with your pickup?
Cheers Andy
I have 10 pins on my Toyota hilux Australian version 5vzfe engine how do i test as I have more pins ?
Sorry, no idea with that one. You'll have to get a wiring diagram to identify each wire.
Cheers Andy
Andy Mechanic : Hi Andy, nice pickup, my 1994, 22re, standard, 5 speed, with 313,000 miles failed me last Friday, the engine stopped on the Miami turnpike at 70 miles per hour, it is giving me the code 12, it is not the distributor, it can be the coil or the igniter too, it could be that some cable is broken or it went to ground because the ECU is not receiving the signal and it is not the ECU because it would not give me codes, long way ahead, if someone has had the same experience let me know so I don't go blind, without work, with little money I can't take her to the mechanic, I have to do it, please help. Thanks.
Hi Andy, I have an issue with my 99 Toyota rav4, its throwing a p0340 code, I've replaced coils, timing belt, cam sensor, checked crank sensor, new spark plugs! It runs but only on two cylinders, cylinders 1 and 4 are firing but not at correct time, any ideas?
Was it the timing?
Will I have. spark if this part dont works
No. Not continously but you may have for the first few revolutions of the engine depending on the fault with the ignitor.
Cheers Andy
What about if I'm getting spark but not enough to travel threw new cap and rotor and wires? Does the igniter have anything to do with a weak spark
No. Igniter is only really a fancy switch that provides a feedback to the ECU once a spark event has occurred.
Cheers Andy
Hello was wondering if someone could help my car is a JDM 93 supra 2jzge non vvti engine starts then runs for a few seconds then stalls, or stalls as soon as the throttle is given. I’ve ran codes and have 24 & 31 which is maf sensor related however my car has a map sensor. I’ve replaced so far the valve cover gaskets cleaned pcv valve installed new distributor cap rotor button spark plugs and spark plug wires still have same issue if someone could help me diagnose further or may know a solution that I’m not thinking about I would appreciate it thank you.
hi andy, why is it my igniter has no 5v but when i pull out the connector of the igniter and test the pin there's a 5v supply
the voltage is being used ...nothing left
Very good but where dose it mount and how to install it, please and dose it supply all 4 plugs with spark ??? Somebody PLEASE Help... I have a number 4 misfire. And a new coil and plug did not fix ....the code.
Hi David, the igniter acts as a relay, grounding the coil to provide a spark for each cylinder - the timing controlled by the ECU
As all ignition parts are common to all cylinders except for the distributor cap, HT leads and spark plug itself these are the parts I'd be checking if getting a cylinder specific code.
Hope this helps
Cheers Andy
Hi, can you please wiring diagram show and send me to messege?
Did you find what the problem was with the mr2?
You'll have to watch the full diagnostic series I did a few months ago.... :-)
Andy Mechanic I have a kit car with a 3sge in my work shop that is running a set of carbs and no ecu it runs till it gets warm and dies coil is fine distributor has been rebuilt. Next step will be to look at igniter if i can find it and test the wiring between them.
Thank you bro
Hello I have a fj60 1984 that turns off on me randomly driving or not , bad igniter?
If it's a bad igniter then a fault code should be stored and your engine check light on....
Hope this helps
Cheers Andy
No check engine on 🙁 just randomly shuts off
Hmmm.....possibly a fuel pump pressure issue as this wouldn't trigger a fault code. There are many variables here so hard to diagnose without lots of testing...
Andy what is the name of the plastic plug or connector? I need one and nobody xan help me find it
Igniter module pigtail
Hi everyone here, I have a problem can’t start 1988 landcruiser. I don’t want to spend 500$ for igniter , truck don’t have spark , I change coil and distributor cap and rotor crank ok , just park truck for 15min come back can’t start weird. Thanks
Check for 5v on IGF pin on ECU with ignition ON engine not running. If it's higher then you have a capacitor issue inside the ECU.
Also check for continuity on pickup coils in distributor.
hello how are you my car is alto 2006 model issue is that regular oil change to other oil caltas change oil is shell manic are told engine ring issue estimate cost high i cant effort high expensive please suggestion and resolve my issue .
+QAISER FAROOQUI Hi, Qaiser, I think you are talking about having to fit new piston rings to your engine?
If this is the case then, yes, it is quite an expensive job as the cylinder head needs to be removed, as does the sump.
The cylinders will need a hone, this can be done with the block still in the car which does save a lot of labour.
It is an expensive job though. The only alternative is to find a good second hand engine and fit that.
Hope this is what you were asking about.. Cheers Andy
Where is the location of ignition control module for 2003 toyota camry 2.4L
All Hotels All Hotels All Hotels
I have a 1994 Toyota DLX Extended Cab Pickup 2.4 Liter L4 22RE Engine .. I was told the Crankshaft Position Sensor is in the Distributor ? Is this True ?
If its in the distributor it gets a reading from what is called a air gap
Thank you
I HAVE A 1978 corolla WITH A 2tc if anyone has advice on my no spark issue it would be much appreciated I’ve already replaced my battery alternator and my coil
Thank you VERY helpful.
thanks ...really needed that info....
+janet pierce Great, glad to be of help. Thanks for the feedback. Cheers Andy
Baby bash!!!
where pin 4 going my friend thanks more power
Good stuff andy
who wrote your intro music, love the sound of it, and want albums
Sounds to me like an instrumental version of "bad touch" by bloodhound Gang
Man after doing plugs, wires, ignition coils, timing belt, fuel filter, distributors etc i fkin pray to the car gods this is my issue for no power after 3k rpm
Hi Andy
This is cool and all to know about, but what’s the fuckin fix how do you get an igniter for an old Toyota.. I’ve asked parts stores and looked it up online they’re non existent
There are Chinese copies you can buy online. I was lucky to get one on ebay out of the US for $20. They sent me 2 but only charged me for one! Someone has a stack of them somewhere.
Good Luck
Andy
Andy Mechanic I find that hard to believe seeing how all the parts stores and stuff like that said the part is non existent. the one I need is for an 88 ae92 I look online and none look like what I need
Ah. Well there are a few different ones. Can you email me a picture of the label on the ignitor - this has the Toyota part number & I'll make some enquiries here in NZ. We have a lot of scrap Toyotas here from that era.
Email is andymechanic@live.co.uk
Cheers
Andy
Andy Mechanic one second and I’ll get the picture to you
Andy Mechanic I emailed you