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VW AUDI Camshaft Chain Tensioner Gasket and Half Moon Seal Replacement Part 2
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- Опубліковано 24 бер 2014
- Here is Part 2 on how to remove the camshaft chain tensioner gasket and the half moon seal on a 1998 Audi A6 2.8L engine. This procedure should help you if you are doing this repair on any VW or Audi engine equipped with the chain tensioner like the 1.8L and the 2.7L engines.
Links to Parts and Tools Used in The Video:
Camshaft Chain Tensioner Gasket and Half Moon Seal: amzn.to/2bLmYcC
Camshaft Chain Tensioner Special Tool: amzn.to/2b9bkqg
I just replaced the half moon and gasket without unbolting the cam shaft on the passenger side(98 A6). I used a combo of locking tweezers and forceps. the half moon (anyone know why the hole that the halfnoon gasket covers, is even there?) wasn't that bad either. I did not use RTV on the half moon (I used it every place lese that the video showed). This means i can do the same on the drivers side ... probably even easier. So far, no leaks. Thanks to this video, my 25yr old Audi is not leaking oil! ... until it starts to leak again that is.
Hey dude. I just wanted to say thanks for making these awesome, concise videos. My passat has been giving me a lot of grief and these videos help a ton. You rock!
hey! thanks for this video. it really helped me a lot!
i just wanted to add to help others.
first of all, plastic tool on the tensioner needs to be tightened just until there is barely slack on the chain, then maybe a turn more. if you go too far it will snap easily. if it snaps, you can use a washer on top and it should still thread. worked for me. Also, i didnt need to loosen up the camshafts at all to do the half moon and tensioner gasket. I was able to pivot the tensioner slightly to fit those in there no problem. the tool is pretty necessary though and gives enough slack to to the half moon and tensioner gasket without loosening up the camshafts.
i have the 2.7t s4, and the valve cover is a little different. You dont have to take off that power steering line. . Lastly, it was a little unclear for me where to apply the gasket maker from this video, but its pretty easy to figure out once youre looking at it up close. Its everywhere where the gasket returns to the flat position from bends upward. Just on the corners where the gasket runs in the groove when it comes down to meet the flat part of the head and the spot between the cam cap housing and the cam chain tensioner.
Thanks a lot. As always, you helped save me a lot of grief and time.
Used this to change the tensioner entirely as it had been failing, a lot easier than I anticipated.
I have used many of your tutorials to perform a variety of repairs on my 1998 audi a6 qauttro.
Fair play to you. This is how all DIY videos should be done. Thanks 👍
+james cunningham Glad you like the video, thanks for commenting.
Great video. Very complete without unnecessary info. Just did the job with great success due to the time you took to show the world! I simply unscrewed the two fuel lines to get them out of the way instead of work around them. Same with the power steering line.
Yep I have a ‘98 A6 with same 2.8 30v motor and I’m about to tackle the valve covers, tensioner gasket, half moons, caps, etc and the PCV, vacuum pump, breather hose and check valve .. I’ve been smelling oil for awhile, and the cabin filter was black as coal.. this job seemed easy hopefully the cam chain in the passenger rear side doesn’t slip.. thanks for great details in these part 1&2 👍🏻
Great video! Stumbled across part 2 first, will watch part 1 next. Hoping to see the actual cleaning as well. I've tried fixing these leak issues a couple times now. This is my third attempt in 16 years. Apparently, this is "routine maintenance" lol.
I found this to be an insightful video for replacing the half plug and metal gasket. I had done the timing belt and gaskets at 75K. I really liked not having to remove the carrier group on the car. One thing on my engine was that I had to remove the return fuel line because it was blocking the cam cover. Instead of using RTV sealant I have found Reinzosil works really well. It's not cheap but it does an excellent job of forming gaskets and sealing the small areas. Thanks for the vid and info. mhg
Браво за видеото, етва е ся обесняване , грам да не разбираш, та да ти стане ясно!
Thank you brother for video. This is very very good job guys
Yeah i just got a new valve cover gasket and cam tensioner gasket with the half moon seals. i just wasn't sure if i also needed the cam seals and caps and how many per side since its only one cam. Excellent video by the way. really easy to follow your step-by-step instructions
Thanks for not using annoying background music and making a good video.
Great job showing how the half-moon seal goes in the bottom of the chain tensioner!
Nice video! Thanks for taking the time. I’m tired of smelling that burning smell!!
You've been a lot of help. You are very thorough compared to some of the videos I've seen. Thanks for the help.
Good video! Thanks for posting! The only thing I would add is that you should probably change the cam shaft seal on the cam shaft with the cam chain tensioner since you're there. You have a video of that doing it on the driver's side. Basically the cam seal that is to the right in the video on the top cam shaft. The one by the cam position sensor. That is held in place by 2 10mm bolts; then there's a 13mm bolt that holds a cam position ring, and finally the seal I'm talking about. BUT You have to start working on this before you loosen the CCT or the cam shaft otherwise you can't loosen the 13mm bolt. It is pretty tight and you will just spin the cam shaft instead.
pretty sure the cam seal on the pass side is up front where the cam position sensor is, to replace that you'll need to remove t-belt maybe cam sprocket on that side. On the driver side its in the back thats why I replaced it in the other video. cheers
RatchetsAnd Wrenches I saw that the valve cover gasket comes with 2 cam seals for each side (4 total). Does this mean maybe there is one in the back and one in the front?
Yes, by the the time I did this job two times I figured out what the problem was. The valve cover itself had warped slightly. The first two jobs would not leak for a few weeks then the leak would start again. The best fix would have been to take the valve covers to a machine shop and have them resurface the covers, or get new ones. If either of these two methods is too pricey for you, like for me, there is another way. Find a nice, ruff, flat, piece of sidewalk and wet it with some water. Now, in a random circular motion smooth out the valve cover surface. Make sure to flip the cover so it is smoothed out evenly. When the cover is uniformly shiney on the matting surface install the cover and gaskets like shown in this video. Only with resurfacing did my my leak finally stay stopped.
Stanley Tolle I haven't had this problem but given how these aluminum covers are kind of flimsy I can see it happening. Thanks for the comment and the tip, cheers.
Stanley Tolle I have heard of doing this with a piece of glass which is perfectly flat of course, and either sheets of sandpaper glued down or an abrasive mixed with oil or water.
Hi, Great video. As a newbie I would appreciate the full video from start to finish. As things don't always go back as smooth as they should.
There is a 5mm allen on the back of the intake plenum, and a 10mm hex bolt on the top of it. I just move it out of the way to gain more room to loosen the power steering line and work on the tensioner. Getting the fuel lines out of the way helps too.
i think so you have the best video for this task. i'm about to start changing the cam chain gasket and various seals near there. my blauparts kit for my 2.7t has new tensioner and the round donut seal that installs at the front of the cam. just curious why u didn't do those?
either way, this is an excellent DIY and i appreciate the time you put into putting this together. Bravo!
I never loosened my cam caps. Once the special tool compressed the chain and I removed the 4 rear hex bolts, I used a vice grips to slighltly rotate counterclockwise the intake camshaft to relieve pressure on the tesnioner cap.
Wow. Didn't realize what I was taking on. Great video and love your channel!
thank you for taking the time to create and publish these videos. you basically taught me the 2.7t
COSMIC SLOP is this the same way for 2.7t?
Warrior-of-Love 43 yes it is. There’s just less space and more parts
COSMIC SLOP thanks for the quick reply
Warrior-of-Love 43 feel free to ask additional questions. I’ll do my best to answer
Best video I've seen on this procedure. Thanks
Frank Tremblay np, thanks for commenting.
Great Video! How many hours would a garage charge for this job?
great work Am doing one tomorrow I'll look like a champ after watching you !
Use some lockgrip pliers on a "rough" part of the cam shaft to rotate it to give you more slack in raising the camshaft chain tensioner. You don't really have to mark the chain on the camshaft sprocket, because it's almost impossible to get it to skip a tooth with the slack you've produced, but it will give you peace of mind!
Great video! You just saved me a ton of money, time, and effort! Really appreciate this
Hey np, glad to hear it. Cheers
Thanks for the video, used it to replace gaskets on my 2000!
you can also change the one on the driver side without removing the timing belt, it sucks but there is enough room to slide the seal and gasket out, but you have to take all the cam caps off plus the double bearing cap. make sure you put them back on in order and torque them to the required spec and sequence
good video thanks! I made it yesterday without lossening the camshaft and the power steering line metal pipe, but i was pain in the ass but worked :D just want to say its possible too :)
Nice video I guess is the same way the other side ? on rs6 c5 4.2 biturbo ?
Quick question R&W when applying the RTV gasket maker in the certain areas, do you allow the RTV to dry or do you want it to be wet when you reassemble all the parts?
Amazing. I'm replacing the bearings on my v6 2.7 l. Really nice guide
execexec Sweet, glad you liked it. cheers
Good diy only thing i suggest is actually change or remove tension unit to look at the oil feed port as there is a screen that is usually very gunked up or blown out to the point where it is starving for oil.
Was I supposed to put any RTV on the grooved edge of the cam cap?
Hi, I just changed tose to mi 05 audi allroad 2.7t. Valve gasket to. But now is a leak on the back engine by the driver turbo side. I think is the return oil lines or all of them. My question is, if can I just remplace the o rings seal on the lines, doing it under the car or do I have to remove the engine.?
Excellent video and step by step instruction.
Richard Allison Glad you liked the video, thanks for your comment.
this video helped me decide to do it myself
Great video! Thanks a lot! I have an Audi TT 1.8T quattro, BAM from 2002 (225hp) and i need to remove the gaskets under the camshaft tensioner. I need to decrease tension to the camshaft chain to remove the camshaft tensioner. Please tell me what is the name of that key you used.
Thanks a lot!
Nice, video! I was wondering about if there was a way to do the passenger side with out the timing belt coming off.
I have 04 2.7t allroad that started to smoke a little with the burning oil smell.
This will at least get me by until the full overhaul gasket replacement/timing belt and ect.
You do not have to take the cams off!!! you can get the seals out after you compress the tensioner
at least if you have a 1.8t you don't have to
@@alimo2002 how would you do it then? i will be doing this my self soon
Niznuts123 if you have a 1.8t then you can use the tensioner compression tool.. was about $10. Threads into the block and gives you enough slack in the cam chain to lift the tensioner to replace the seals.
I did a Audi 1.8 APG non turbo and the cams had to come out.I tried without removing them and it was impossible.
Mate, that is an awesome video, great to see you throwing in the little tensioning sequence tricks too.
Do you have to set engine to TDC top dead center to do this procedure ? to replace cams. ?
Tnx a bunch,you helped me a lot with this and TB video,i am all done but still have coolant leake somewhere under the tensioner (pasanger side),the thing is i cant see where exactly is leaking and now after TB job i still dont have coolant in the sistem....maybe coolant flange (cant tell is it plastic or metal coolant flange) ? I have 2001 Audi A6 2.8? Tnx one more time:)
Hi I am having difficulty with cam chain tensioner i can only get a tiny amount of slack in chain. Any ideas? The chain seems to loosen slightly then if I keep tensioning the chain get tight again. Car is Audi a4 2000 v6. Thanks for video though, most helpful!
great video!! I have a Audi a4 Quattro 1.8 wagon and it has the same problem oil every where..it seems that I can start from the Camshaft Chain Tensioner Gasket. .Very good video!!
Thanks for your comment, gl with the repair. cheers
Thanks for the video, whats the procedure for doing the driver side? Do you have a video for this?
very well explained ,how can I remove this Camshaft Chain Tensioner , I appreciate your help.
By taking the camshaft out with tensioner not bolted down.
Good video thx a lot but if you have a 2.8 a4 you wont be able to fit a ratchet with the t30bit on the lower bolt of the cam bearing cap
You do good automotive work and video work. The lighting in your shop seems excellent. I just replaced the valve cover gaskets on a 2002 VW Passat v6. Still have a lot of smoke coming from driver's and passenger side of the engine. Can't tell if it's oil smoke or exhaust. Might be bad exhaust manifold gaskets on both sides?
Thank you for that good how to!!
Great video...Will the same procedures work on my Passat 1.8T AWM engine as I am planning on replacing the half moon/end plug on the intake cam?
Thank you for the knowledge! Cheers mate! I would think the valve cover would aswell be 7 lbs of torque?
Thanks for the video. I did the passenger side by removing the cams (per the instructions with the gasket kit). I ended up one tooth off and had to remove it again. Big pain bit caught the mistake. I did it your way on the driver side without removing the cam and things went much smoother. AND...I broke that damn vacuum tube
How do you make sure that you dont end up one tooth off?
Val, the instructions were very specific about counting the chain links between your timing marks when removing the cams. (I think it was 15 but don't have that info now). Of course, when you loosen the chains and remove the cams they are going to move around a bit. When reinstalling and tightening the bearing caps the cams move while tightening. If you mark everything well and have the correct link spacing between the cam sprockets then you should be good. But like I said, I did the other side without removing the cams and it went much smoother.
David James I think they said the count is 16.. thanks I'll try this way!
David James One more question, where is the Camshaft Chain Tensioner gasket on the drivers side? In the front or back near the firewall?
On the passenger side the tensioner and tensioner gasket are toward the firewall. On the drivers side both are forward near the radiator.
My chain tensioner chipped (the top plastic piece) and I need to replace it. If i move the chain out of the way and release the special tool in order to swap out the piece, should everything stay in time? I don't want to make this a bigger project if I don't have to.
Dear Ratchets And Wrenches I have an issue I hope you can maybe help or clarify. I have 2004 Audi A4 1.8t, I recently finished the valve cover gasket and the tensioner gasket with half moon seal. I had all my marks lined up at TDC before starting, I had the Cam Tensioner tool in, then I loosened the Intake cam caps, so I can have enough room to lift
the tensioner, and replace the gaskets/seal (Side Note: when putting in the tensioner tool, the slack on the chain was on the under side of the tensioner, loosening cam caps helped loosen chain tension also on top). After I put half moon seal, gaskets in for tensioner and valve cover gasket I tightened the cam caps according to proper sequence, torqued each to spec 10nm. When I rotate the engine 2 revolutions to make sure my TDC marks match on cam sprocket and crank, the TDC mark was completly off on the Cam sprocket when the Crank was at TDC. When I had finsished installing all gaskets and seals, none of my TDC marks had moved a SPEC! I don't know how the Cam sprocket could have moved while Timing belt was not without being in sync with crank pulley. I can only think of possibly the tensioner chain that had slack on the opposite end, might have allowed improper rotation or something. However I did everything in reverse order when re-assembly, not sure WHY!! I am hoping I did not cause valve damage when turning engine two revolutions to check my TDC marks, would you recommend taking the timing belt off and valve cover, rotating the cams back to TDC? Or this is not good idea and I have completely screwed things up!! Any help or feedback you can provide will be great help!!! Thank you Ratchets and Wrenches...
Best,
Tony
You do not need to put RTV on the half moon seal, sure it sticks up, but once you tighten the tensioner down the half moon is pressed in to place to form a good seal. Also, no need to put RTV on the cam tensioner gasket as the blue stuff on the gasket is RTV placed there by the manufacturer.
Brandon Erdmann I always buy insurance in the form of RTV. cheers
Would I be right in thinking that there is another tensioner on the other set of cams on bank 2, as I can feel a camshaft seal plug at the back of the head?
is a lot of work I will learn one day
Too many seals there and space is tight. I'm having a really hard time trying to pinpoint what exactly is leaking.
The C5 is an excellent automobile once its running right. Thanks for the tutorial!
If you can get back to me awesome or if someone else can answer this. On the driver side when you do the cam cap and the cam seal that is covered by cam speed sensor cap. I can seem to get it off I take the two 10m bolts out but the coolant line seems to be in the way any tips to get it out with out breaking something thanks!.
I have a 01 A4 1.8T, the sprocket is locking up after the first turn. The engine was just rebuilt but the head was not removed. It was turned over to install the crankshaft. Could you give me any input on this @RatchetsAnd wrenches?
Okay, so I need to change out the cam chain tensioner on my Jetta, how do I get the tensioner out of the engine? If I'm picturing it correct the compressor tool will make it a pain to get it out
Now I think I know why my 1996 Toyota Corolla is leaking oil after changing the valve cover gasket. I didn't put any sealant around the METAL half moon piece. I wonder what that little piece is for on my Toyota.
Do you have any idea what to do if the camshaft jams? After removing all bolts it can not be lifted up, it does not move at all.
I have a real tough situation and I'd like to know if you could help.
We got the kit from Blau Parts. In the instructions, it says to remove both cam shafts to get to this half moon seal and the front seals on the passenger side. So we did and lined the chain marks 16 links. Upon install the cams weren't going in the way we had them, they would only fit 3 ways. We tried one way, the car would crank but it wouldn't stay on. We checked to see if there was bent valves but no bent valves. So where we are stuck at is, how the heck do we figure out where each cam shaft is supposed to be positioned? If your an idiot like we are and took out the cam shafts but don't know how to put them back in right, how do you find the correct position? Keep in mind the driverside is perfect. We haven't touched the driver side. Can you help?
Hi +RatchetsandWrenches what are the symptoms for a bad tensioner gasket and 1/2 moon seal? My A4 2.8 2008 has a bank 1 lean code with a lot of oily soot at the back and bottom of engine... runs weak and idles shaky... This seems a bit involved so maybe a few things to check off before I do this job??? Thanks ahead! really appreciate your vidis :)
Hi,
Any advice what to do more to change the Tensioner itself?
Thanks
Great video are you located in NJ?
Can this be done on the driver side, without removing the timing belt?
Is it compulsory to do this when doing a rocker cover gasket on a golf 1.8t?
Please explain to me why do you compress the tensioner and loosen up Cam's? Someone did all that without compressing it.
How long does this job take? I'm thinking of doing the rocker cover, VVT seals and tensioner all at the same time? What do you reckon?
What happen is the special tool breaks In the middle of the job what we should do
Great video, you know if this applies to the A6 C5 with 2.4?
Yes
Would this cause one to burn oil out the exhaust pipe
lol jesus just say in the front of the engine. we've been saying the same thing pretty much...going to clean this convo up so it doesnt confuse people.
Can you remove and replace the chain tensioner completely from the preceding steps?
thanks for sharing this video it really helps a lot
i opened mine, with 3366 tool installed the chain still tight, so what should I do now???and how
Can you please do a video on the pcv system??
i need help. i tried using the 3366 tool to release the tension on the chain but it barely budges. what else do i need to do in order to get the chain loose?
How much does this Job go for? I got a estimate from a mechanic around my way. Just wondering is he spot on!
thanks, question, what wrong with the oldone, it seems ok??
Do you need the cam chain tensioner tool to replace the camshaft tensioner gasket on a 1997 audi a4 quattro 2.8L with a SOHC (AFC) ? Also, since its only one cam can i get away without removing the timing belt to do the process ?
I havent worked on the sohc engines but I would actually check to make sure they have the chain tensioner..since its sohc they may not have it. You might be leaking from the valve cover gasket and/or the camshaft cap. gl
Your the best as always
Is this same procedure as the 1.8t?
I have an 04 Audi a4 1.8t
u are so right that this is an annoying leak that u can smell in the car, wtf. Gona tackle it next week. Just my drivers side.
Nemesis2747 gl, thanks for watching.
Hi, where do I get chain tensioner and half moon seal? 2002 Audi A4 Quattro 3.0
hi do you know if the passat v6 from 2004 has the half moon or use it?.
greetings from chile
thank you
By doing the same steps as follows on the video, will you be able to replace the camshaft sprocket? Say if the teeth on the sprocket is worn out, and not grabbing onto the chain and causing the car to stall and misfire, and I purchase the camshaft can I follow these steps and remove the camshaft completely without having to take off the timing belt on the front?
I believe you'll be able to take off the intake camshaft if you need to take off that sprocket, but you might have to take off the front cam bearing completely by removing the front tbetl cover and cam sensor etc.. also putting it back and lining it up will require some experience so be mindful of that. GL
RatchetsAnd Wrenches Also sprockets rarely ware out to the point you discribed. make sure your problem isnt the chain tensioner itself or the guides or something completely unrelated.
hi i have 2002 audi a6 3.0 twin camp how to set timming if you can hell thank you
Great video! Looks like you are located in San Diego? Are you accepting customers? I have a 2000 A4 2.8 that needs this job done.
Hi there I have a question.
I release all the bolts holding the cam and put the tool after now I'm trying to put the camshaft back but the valves in that side are all the way up how can I push the valves down without bending it. Is a 1.8t vw
+Carlos Al it sounds like you didn't line up your timing marks before you loosened your cam cap bolts. With your timing chains and belt at TDC ( top dead center ) the cam should not be pushing down on any lifter..
Thanks for posting, great video!
Hi before putting in tool 3366 are you suppose to have the chain at top dead center? The reason I ask, because I put the tool on and it did absolutely nothing; chain is just as tight as with it off!!! Should I take the tool off and manually turn the shaft so the tensioner raises to it's highest point? TY :)
Same problem here. The tool actually raised up a little while tightening the bolt.
Is it even necessary to loosen all the cam shaft cap bolts?
I did the opposite side and skipped loosing all the cam shaft cap bolts , now tensioner stays slack? Is this because of skipping that step?? Someone please?
Dude how do take the cam shaft tensioner case off I have been at it for hours. I could have removed the damn engine by now. !!!! Help!!!
Video is awesome thanks. Completed passenger side on my Audi A4 (2001, 2.8) and I'm working on the drivers side but I've run into a snag. I can't get the cam chain tensioner to go down. I've stressed the tool as far as I dare to the point it looks like it is going to break and a lot more torque than was needed on the first side but still no slack in the chain and the piston is not dropping. Have you run into this before? Do you have any suggestions? I've re-positioned the tool a couple of times to make sure it wasn't caught on anything but still no luck.
Did you here happen to figure out why it would compress I’m having this issue right now smh