Climbing El Capitan
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- Опубліковано 4 чер 2014
- What do dehydration, Mandarin oranges and electrocution all have in common?
The ascent of "The Nose of El Capitan!"
After tagging the summit of Half Dome via "the Regular Northwest Face", Ryan Eubank and Voltaire Valle were ready for their ascent of "The Nose of El Capitan..."
Or so they thought, until one slip of the foot and a devastating injury brought it all to a screeching halt. One year later, with cameras rolling, their determination was once again put to the test.
See what life on the wall was like - it's ups and downs, and the realization of a dream 20 years in the making.
Starring:
Ryan Lee Eubank & Voltaire Valle
Filmed + Edited by:
Mark L. Valle
Special Thanks:
Sportrock
Graziela Santos
John Lin
James C. Valle
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These type of people are special. Very few people in the world have the balls, determination and will to do this
One of the best climbing videos I've seen in a long time - why? because it's ordinary dudes doing something extra-ordinary and bringing it all home just how immense climbing something like el cap really is for your average bloke. Great vid guys - you made me smile and you inspired me - thank you!
And then there was Alex Honnold.
@@woah.one89 I wish he never did it. I am so sick of hearing Alex this and Alex that. There are lots of good climbers some are just not so reckless with their life. Sadly it does not end nicely, then what.
I wouldnt call them ordinary though! This is very extraordinary and the dudes are fucking awesome!!
@@mtadams2009 he is famous for a lot of speed records on el cap also it’s not just his recklessness
I couldn't believe Mr.Valle my science teacher did this XD he showed us the video in class
"...after about 500 foot, it all starts to get cartoony..."
This is rad guys!
just watched this youtube with my 3 grandchildren,boy 10 girl 10 and girl 6 and they were glued for the entire 50 minutes.very informative.their dad used to climb cathedral and whitehorse in nh long before they were born and i think this defineitley fills many questions they had on climbing .very well done thank you
This was THE best video that I've seen on climbing the Nose. Thanks for putting such a quality video together! It's hard to explain to people why anyone would want to climb something like El Cap. I'm pretty sure this video answers that question unequivocally!
That was a Great Video, thank you guys for making that climb. That's the only way I'm ever going to see the view from that perspective. Thanks to those who have the drive and dedication to conquer this wall.
Loved this video!! Please keep documenting your climbs like this. You guys are hilarious and fun to watch! Would love to see more of your technique on the ascents in the future. Cheers!
I really enjoyed this video.
good job guys, extra thumbs up for the humility and simplicity of sharing your experience ( although not simple at all )
Fantastic video guys, watched the entire thing.
Great video guys!
these guys, great team, great climb!
You're both so very fortunate to have the depth of friendship that you do.
That and to have sensed the nose! What a golden video. Thank you so much! Climb on, david
Everyone remembers their first time entering Yosemite. It changes your life.
Great story and experience. I loved the interview format and narrative to go with the footage.
great video!
just thinking about climbing this gets my palms sweaty....
Amazing, you guys are awesome!
Being an experienced climber who aspires to do big walls it was cool to see raw footage coupled with commentary and insight. Nice job on the climb!
Definitely addressed some of the realities that I haven't seen talked about in any other climbing video. Loved it!
Really liked this video. It seemed like an honest, no-frills climbing adventure with friends. I may do this some day, for now bouldering at Hueco and ice climbing in Ouray. Thanks for taking us along on your adventure.
I really enjoyed watching this! Great job guys!
Nice to see a couple average climbers on El Cap. This video cleared up a few question I had in climbing big walls. Of course I'll never climb it...I like a nice warm bed!
If i could put more than one like, i'd put a lot there! Great video and story, thank you!
Great video! Watched the full video and I loved every minute of it. I'm going to start climbing soon, and you gave me tons of inspiration! +1 like
Your video is awesome and both of you really inspire! thank you for sharing
This is great
Great job Mark!
I used this as story research for a book I'm working on. great video. Tons of info.
This is awesome. Great work guys!
great job guys! Awesome video! solid achievement!
I enjoyed this very much. Well done, boys!! So inspiring!
Phenomenal video of a great ascent!
Very cool vid and story..rite on.
This is awesome! Great job! A must watch!
Thanks Peechee! It only took 3 years for me to reply!
Awesome! Nicely edited!
Great video guys!
Totokanulah named for the measuring worm that rescued the two bear cubs from the high rock now called El Capitan.
Great video guys! I met a few people from your gym at the NRG this past weekend. My goal is to climb el cap one day and ill have to remember the jolly rancher trick!
What an amazing video!!! Props!!!
you guy are lot of fun..nice video..enjoyed it
I really wanna do this now!
amazing achievement, congrats guys!!
absolutely epic!
Great team
truly Inspirational :)
It's been years since I've been actively climbing. Only climbed outdoors once (It was AMAZING!). Want to get back into it but I need a good belay partner. Plus I live only a mile from this gym!
"9 hrs..take that alex honnold" . i lol'd
I would love to climb this before I die.
Great vid. Real pros here
Well done lads.
so cool!
spot on guys truly inspirational. Next up El Cap - no ropes!
This is terrifying and i'm sitting in a chair.
This is so inspiring. There are more climbing documentaries coming up on Amazon and Netflix. If you could cut in some non-copyrighted music (over the Batman music) you could probably get this picked up.
Seeing them hangout at that ledge just gives me major anxiety. Yet I still watch..wtf !
and running/flying
excellent
Did he really say: "Take that Alex and Hans, baby!" at 46:52? lol...Maybe the next time I climb a tall ladder, I'll say the same thing.
Great video. Congratulations!
Thanks for sharing Bill Macbride this looks amazing, just the first 10minutes had me inspired! On my watch list for the weekend!
On my hit list in the next year or so!!
Go Bill Macbride !
I just met these guys today at my local climbing gym
How do you gain the trust of your anchors? Metal put into rock may be secure but I would have to fool my instinct to trust it. How do you trust an existing anchor ring?
Here's a long answer, but basically: it's a process (a very worthwhile process, I might add).
At first, it was scary as heck - but I started by simply reasoning that people do this everyday, so the anchors must be somewhat secure. Then I tried weighting bolts and cams and stoppers when I was close to the ground. I learned about what makes the gear secure and what situations can make them fail. I watch out for those situations and do my best to always have secure placements.
Then I put myself on a wall and took gradually larger falls on the gear (always having 3 or 4 backup anchors). I've never had anything move into an unsafe position, I've never had a piece of gear fail in these tests.
Now, I've fallen on at a several hundred bolts, cams and stoppers. I've never had anything fail or ever had a piece come out of the wall, so I trust that the mechanisms work well, and that I have the proper knowledge and technique to use the gear safely.
But at the end of the day I still, NEVER trust one thing to save my life. I ALWAYS have multiple pieces of gear in the wall, so that if, for whatever reason, my last piece of gear fails, I won't fall very far before the next one catches me. At belays, I am always tied into the wall at multiple points. Then just be consistent in checking your systems and your partner's as well.
It's possible that, someday, everything could go wrong, a bolt could pop out, my cam could break, and a bolt of lightning could cause a rock-slide to dislodge the other 4 pieces of gear, sending me and my buddies down a several-hundred-foot cliff. But I have better chance of being killed by a drunk driver on my way to classes in the morning - yet I still drive everyday. Basically, its a controlled risk that I am totally comfortable accepting in order to better enjoy life!
I wanted to watch a rock climbing documentary on this gloomy, overcast day and this is what I found. Great film guys and very well done. Thanks for sharing your adventure. I've always wondered something. How do you descend and what is involved? Is it more or less difficult or just different all together? Any info from anyone? I'm afraid of heights. Anyone afraid of hights ever break their fear by gradually learning to rock climb? I'd like to start one day.
most humans (and animals), are not afraid of heights, but rather, have a fear of falling. It's a survival instinct. It takes time to trust the gear. First on small drops and falls then gradually progressing to huge whippers.
Yeah, I suppose I've had to trust my gear (and my knowledge of how it works) for so long that i'm not as scared of something failing and me falling. Learn the systems, check them constantly, and you're good!
"partners" (;
lol awesome vid!
The cramps came on because something they ate, judging by the timing and the full body gig. My hypothesis.
The last pitch, the Vertigo pitch, that's what u climb for.
this is my teacher. the asian
I guess pooping in a sliver of rock up high with the soaring eagles is on some peoples bucket list. Raunchy.
is there a steak dinner at the top?
So what size ropes are people using these days? Back in my day (70's) it was 11mm x 150 or 165ft, friends hadn't been invented yet, pitons were taboo, and free climbing there was practically unheard of. A lot has changed, and its really cool you guys nowdays have small and light digital cameras to share your climbs with us old guys. Thanks
We used a 60m 10.5mm rope.
james C. Valle is my teacher
When the cramps hit eat a few mustard packets and chase them with pickle juice
Breath through your nose. I have run out of water on walls. That's the only way to survive.
Sweaty palms and tingling toes after watching this.
My balls started shriveling up on me
They even brought a Hibachi and a bag of Kingsford.
At 17:10 is Ryan locked in with something other than the red rope with what looks like a lot of slack? If you slipped that would be quite a jolt when the rope catches, wouldn't it? I'm am a couch watcher, but you guys can be on a ledge and trust not to slip?
Yes there is a lot of slack, but it's a really big ledge!
Did you collect any of the water? When it rained
No we didn't! That would probably be pretty gross with all the urine washing off the walls!
Hey Erik Lamela, not sure what you're so mad about, but we did say 35 minutes for climbing pitch 1.
Budda say's he;s a prick !!.. Cheers!!!,,
Batman Music Nice !!! XD
Now at this point, is it still rock climbing, or mountaineering? At what point does rock climbing become mountaineering?
mountaineering is typically alpine altitudes, requires snow/ice/mixed climbing, and is usually less technically difficult terrain (I.E 5.6), but mountaineering is usually multiple days or weeks. Rock climbing is usually sub-alpine altitudes, confined to rocks, and usually more technically difficult (I.E 5.12), but usually don't last more than a day. this is big wall climbing, rock climbing a really big wall over multiple days. each has their own unique skill sets and gear, but they also have skills and gear overlap. for example, carabiners, rope and belay device are universal, but you won't need an ice axe and crampons to climb el cap. Just like you won't need a porta-ledge or haul bag for day climbing at the local crag.
Yeah, as big as El capitan is, it's less a mountain and more a big, sheer cliff the size of three Empire State Buildings... Ok, it's a bit of a mountain, but it's a fairly ambiguous distinction
what happens when (not if) you get diarrhea?
its spray painting time then
I always wondered why they don't have parachutes
+Jack Lambert Not only would it be annoying to have on, but if you fall climbing a wall like that you'd have to fly away from the wall to be able to pull it, and at that point it might be too late. Not to mention finding a place to land in that forest would be hard. And quite frankly, climbing is safe if you know what you're doing and have all the proper equipment.
+Jack Lambert They have invented a rock climbing chute, but you need to be in an area to use it(only for emergencies). It is against the law to use any chutes in the park.
Oh, and base jumping is illegal in Yosemite.
imagine his glasses fell
35 minutes it took for the first pitch.
hi im here hiiiiiiiiii
i love candy mr valle
does a climber shit in the rocks ? yep.
No way..
one out of very few asians who want to climb el cap lol
Now free solo it and we will be impressed
Shut the fuck up I'm so tired of these comments. You couldn't elcap with ropes you pos. It's a lifetime achivement to climb up El cap, and what Alex honnald was called the epitomy of athletic achivement.
@@finnhig5171 I am so with you. On almost ever climbing video there is the same stupid comment. It just grows old. I think Alex himself would tell him to shut the F up.
why theres always shitmusic on mountain docus i dont know
+MultiMrMiles bitch bitch bitch you must be a bitch. wouldn't ya think. jeeze
Nice stolen Dark Knight Rises movie sound track in the beginning. lol
12:40 Practice enough Tai Chi & Chi Gong and there's no cramping.
Free climbing is the real deal.
That would limit this wall to almost no one climbing it.