CLIMBING THE NOSE - Jorg Verhoeven's ascent of the most famous route in the world
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- Опубліковано 21 вер 2015
- In October of 2014, Jorg Verhoeven spent 30 days in Yosemite Valley, California with one goal in mind; Make a free ascent of The Nose (5.14), on El Capitan, arguably one of the world's most famous climbs. Join Jorg as he explains why this route is so hard, what keeps people from climbing this iconic route free, and what he personally invested into his remarkable ascent. Tommy Caldwell and Lynn Hill help narrate this incredible story of determination and perseverance that ultimately leads to the 5th free ascent of The Nose. Produced By Louder Than Eleven (lt11.com)
Original Score by: Fizzix Productions (www.fizzixprodutions.com). - Спорт
i wonder how angelo angelini is these days. i hope he's doing alright.
14:38 The kooky Italian guys just says "ravioli" for no reason. Haha
jw golding I think he says ravioli..... Eat it :)
"He did, not me" not "Eat it"
this comment really made me burst. lolllllllll
hahahaha
I live about 80 miles near by our friend angelo.
Its cool to see an italian guy hanging around camp 4 on yosemite XD
That camera work on the Changing Corners is truly superb.
Behind the gugong under the rug bear
Angelo angelini best name ever
And Jorg had angel up there with him. It's quite poetic ;p
Actually his name is Angelo Angelilli (mistake in the video), an even better name, right?
Soulsurver i
He's been dirtbagging around the valley for a few years now. I think he went back to Italy, I've not seen him there this year.
Angelo Angelilli definitely the guy you need if you start going crazy on your own. What a fun dude
big respect for the first crazy bastard that setup the route
Warren Harding I think?
@@curtisc6429 Yeah, Harding did the first rope-assisted climb, but then Lynn Hill did the first free climb (so credit would go to her)
@@ajn1129 Um.. yeah. That's not how it works. Harding obviously gets the credit for setting it up.
I mean, Harding gets the FA, Hill the FFA
@@DrFumesta You must not climb...
I want Tommy Caldwell to narrate my life.
19:07
*super intense climbing, barely sticking a smear, music ramping up, heavy breathing*
Casual Italian guy: "... allé ..."
FFA Lynn Hill 1994. No comment thread is complete without an acknowledgement of this remarkable woman's historic ascent.
yeah, pure badassery! not to mention the mental aspect of being the first to do it... no confidence boost from knowing others have done it before you.
@@nic12344 Wrong route. Honnold free solo'd Freerider, not The Nose.
@@Reverie42 Without a rope. A much more impressive feat. Hundreds of ascents of the nose yearly now, who cares about rope climbers anymore? It's pretty obvious that Lynn isn't anywhere close to the greatest climbers in the world because she's a woman. She is just not physically capable of matching men of the same climbing stature. Great climb for a woman though.
@@milikoshki Almost no one tried it before her, and it must be a confidence boost to think about being the first to do the nose. Not really significant anymore though, it's just a nose and rope climbing is not really a big deal anymore. She is also very tiny 1.53 m and a former gymnast with small hands, so she should have confidence enough. Must be easy for her to maneuver in the crack compared to big 1.85 men weighing 80 kg.
@@ZonZorZerx you have no idea what you're talking about. The 6th free ascent of the nose only happened in 2017. If you exclude non-continuous ascents or ascents that used top-roped segments, that number drops to 4. Only 1 of those was faster than Lynn's ascent.
Many different climbing disciplines use ropes. Free climbing uses ropes only for protection. It's still the gold standard for 'normal' climbing.
The vast majority of ascents of the nose are assisted climbs of some variety. Lynn's accomplishment is still incredible by modern standards.
I really love climbing movies that capture the spirit of climbers doing incredible things like this and this one does it. They remind me of the the surf movies I used to watch when I was younger, a wonderful blend of trial and peace.
Does it? Does? - Ross : it does!
The Dawn Wall was an incredible movie.
@Kyle Wilhelmsen Meru is another good climbing documentary. The guy who was in charge of all the filming in Free Solo is one of the climbers. It's big wall climbing in the Himalayas. Highly recommended.
Surf movie recommendations? :)
The sequence starting at 18:50 is some of the best climbing filming I have seen. If you climb at all, you can really understand what this pitch is all about.
You're right. God all mighty!
Is it a rule that you can only climb up this route? Or maybe it's the safest? The wall is huge, you would think different climbers would take different routes. I don't know, just asking.
@@charlylucky7508yea there are different routes, and they are different challenges. A not so good comparison is running a marathon vs driving a marathon. Same height in the end, but the easier way won’t be such a great achievement
@@AbsoluteMoose 👍
No greater feeling than grabbing a jug hold after a tough section!
Yeah ikr
what is a jug hold?
Big hold you can get your entire hand or both hands on comfortably.
That's HEAVEN!
As long as you don't have to mantle that hold after the rest lol
Fantastic filming on changing corners segment. Really depicts the power and stamina needed to complete it and shows what a legend climber Lynn Hill is. That took incredible physical and mental work Jorg, wonderfully executed. Love how you teamed up with Angelo as well. Should have given more props to friend who belayed you for all that practice. Climbing The Nose IS a team sport.
his layback with his feet high up using that thin crack and keeping those feet pressed on the other side, was inspiring to see. Congrats man! Oh and that woman is a beast of an athlete
I need to put my hands in a chalk bag just after simply watching this...
@Crebs Park haha dumbfuck, he free SOLOED it
@Crebs Park - no. But I dipped my dick in a bag of chalk after that
@Crebs Park wow who hurt you xD
wow at 19:27 when the sound ends u could really feel the pain and the power he had to use to get up. got sweaty hands ;D awesome
+Apocalyptoo1 only climbers will know ;-)
+Andréa Devillier the camera man can rap down from the top or aid climb up the pitch.... it's not the same
+Apocalyptoo1 my hands were sweating the whole video haha
@@andreadevillier1664 do you seriously think that the camera man climbs all the pitches before Jorg? Lol
i climb and even still it amazes me when i see these sort of routes done free , it is TRULY mind boggling
When you get the shakes it's all over, this guy pulled through somehow. Very well done!
Really, really well done! The changing corners footage was awesome. So cool to see what this pitch is really all about.
+Steve Fettke agreed, you always hear of these features or see little clips but rarely get to see beta footage like this
Jesus the Changing Corners section where your body is failing you and your brain is battling like crazy to save it, was the most compelling part of the video. So inspirational that moment where your brain basically told your body, "Not this time, NOT THIS TIME!" and just fought through the pain and tremors.
It goes to show that sometimes your brain can override everything your body is telling you to achieve something great. Truly inspirational.
Beautiful! Awesome to finally get a good view on changing corners. What a beast!
What a fantastic video. A cross generational view on a historic climb. Masters!!!!!
As Italian, I'm so happy to see another Italian helping someone else to do something legendary. I love my country 🇮🇹
A sport like no other. These guys are the best. What a fabulous insight into what they do and what it takes. Thanks.
This was absolutely amazing to watch. Amazing amazing.
haha, i really like this aneglo guy... just casually gets to witness awesomeness.. spirit guide for sure
That changing corners section from 19:30 onwards is intense!! Great film.
Scott Burke was attempting a free climb in 2002 when I was there, and he recruited me into his project, but honestly to me it was just miserable hard work. My try out for team Burke was a day of free soloing progressively harder high ball boulder problems to test my mettle. I have mass respect for those types of people who can do this from start to finish.
I've watched this so many times already and I still love it. One of the greatest rock climbing videos on youtube!!!!
I agree. The camera work when Jorg does the roof is incredible. I could feel the shake of his knees on each friction step.
He used ropes ? Thats not amazing?
I can’t explain how hard my heart was pounding and how much my hands were sweating watching it
Why? They use ropes.
@@jojolafrite90 i hope this is a joke
Noah & Atlas Really? They were on ropes!
How did I not see this vid until now? Total gem. I got completely mesmerized by the hard climbing starting at 18:50 until Angelini's "ALLEZ" at 19:36 brought me back to reality. Thank you for this and congrats
Supervet Jorg! Respect voor je doorzettingsvermogen!
Such a fantastic video! Thank you!
16:37 " screamed wildly " .............
ᵧₐₐₐₐₐₐₐₐₐₐₐₐₐₐₐₐₐₐ
For us mere mortals this looks insane and impossible.
It looks impossible because it is. It's all camera tricks and CGI. These are all actors or hollywood stuntmen.
@@flaccidego9468 in a way that would make more sense. But no.
@@flaccidego9468 true dude!
you made my palms sweat for 20 minutes non stop!! you are SOOOOO brave! respect x
18:50 Climbing "Changing Corners", awesome video sequence, congrats and thanks for sharing that moment!
Lynn's send of the Changing Corners pitch looks more elegant because it is. But Lynn is 5'3" and a former gymnast, so a super flexy. At this level every climber is going to do it based on height, reach, power, preference. Thomas Huber could not do The Great Roof the standard way, so he found a face climbing variation that doesn't use the finger crack. This is what I heard from a reliable source--there is no video.
I tried this thing a few months ago and barely made it up the stovelegs! haha. Such an amazing accomplishment! Congrats Jorg!
Amazing effort and accomplishment, bravo Jorg
Gorgeous!!! Great videography! Thanks for such beautiful work!!
I bet this dude has no problem opening jars.
HA
I've been climbing at an advanced level for two years now and I still struggle opening jars... takes a certain person knows guess! :)
@Crebs Park Of course! It's a great achievement to free climb the nose. Also, Alex free soloed freerider there is a difference from free climbing.
Crebs Park the nose is probably the most famous climb in the world and fairly hard. The pitches are rated up to 5.14 if done free climb (without aid from pins, ascenders, or otherwise) because of the strength and technique required. If you're not familiar with climbing grades, the highest in the world is a 5.15 so these pitches are just exceedingly hard for most people. Plus at the time of this accent, only a few others had ever done it free climbing. I can't think of a super good example at the moment, but think of it like this. There's this big weight that's so heavy most people that want to lift it have to use equipment like a forklift or lever to lift it, but you come along and lift it with just your own muscles and you're one of the only people to ever do that. You'd feel proud right? Even if someone else lifted it with one arm later, you were still able to do it without extra equipment.
Crebs Park No. Alex Honnald did a different route that is objectively easier in grade. Not to discredit his acievement at all, but even he would say these guys and their achievement is quite impressive and also a different disciple. Free soloing is its own thing and freeclimbing hard stuff is its own thing impressive for different reasons.
The song is called Yosemite by Michael Wideburg :-)
This is absolutely super filmmaking!
And Lynne? Genuine legend.
Best climbing video I’ve seen so far - good work!
Best climbing vid I HAVE EVER SEEN!! great! Amazing!
+bjaminbjamin Search for Alex Honnold vids.
You have to see valley uprising!
Great achievement Jorge! My helmut is off to you. I remember watching a 25 minute movie a while back about Lynn Hill free climbing the nose and thinking "how could any human do that?" I could never free the nose but I really enjoy the climbing that I do. Well thanx again for the video and be safe up there on the big granite!!!
Great video. I loved the changing corners footage! Congrats on the send, it looked epically hard..
Wow. learned a LOT. IMPRESSIVE. if I even dreamed of doing that, the dream would fall ... into the nightmare category. THANKS. a new definition of discipline.
Everytime i see el cap i just think how the hell did alex honnold solo climb it my palms sweat just watching this
Alex went a completely other route.. These guys here are in a different place on that wall
alex took a safer route, still it was quite a feat
@@MrFlippin24 Honnold does hold the record for this route, however. ua-cam.com/video/XdOzbM_7GMI/v-deo.html&ab_channel=REELROCK (not freesolo though of course)
@@Ozymandyus And just to clarify for those that might not know, that record is not a free climb. When they do the nose speed record they cheat as much as possible
@@a1_west952 just throwing it out there that the OP said “el cap.” I’m gonna go ahead and give him the benefit of the doubt that he understands there’s more than one route on it 😂
The bit when he gets scared and his legs and feet started to shake, my legs were shaking too even though I'm sat on a sofa in Yorkshire. Brave people.
I'm definitely gonna free climb the nose now! THanks for so much inspiration ur awesome!
Felicitaciones! What an amazing route. Full commitment!
And I thought climbing a silo was big stuff! This makes me sweat like crazy so cool!
"Lynn has done the nose, but Tommy has done the rest" - You're forgetting the Huber brothers!
Incredible. Such skill and stamina to acheive the climb.
For such quality content, you need and deserve so many more subscribers.
Alex is Mr El Captain now...
"Cool ropes bro!"
-Alex Honnold
I was just wondering if Honnold has given more than a passing thought about free soloing The Nose. Would it be possible? Yeah, given what other people have done thus far. But it scares the shit out of me just for HONNOLD to even freakin’ CONSIDER doing it. I think that would be the climb everyone has worried about reading about.
Straight up disrespectful to this climber. Hennold would have free solo a climb of this difficulty. He does long climbs but not incredibly hard (on expert level) climbs
It’s insane how many people watched free solo and now come to these climbing videos not knowing anything and talk shit.
@@ItzzTesta Exactly, it's like talking shit about a guy driving a Mercedes, cos his neighbor is driving a Ferrari. Meanwhile, he's going to work everyday in his piece of shit Toyota.
Testa ....I watched it twice bruh. I’m a friggin expert now!
Awesome. To have your name up there with a handful of amazing climbers forever.
Congrats
Very precise and delicate technic, with so much faith in the ascent way !!! Congratulations !
They're muscular endurance is off the charts!
Great video! Just once though I'd like to watch a climbing video without Honnold fanboys comparing every feat to what Alex has done. Alex is a amazing climber no doubt, but lets give this Jorg his props.
Tell me about it.
Get used to it.
Honnold and Caldwell did set the speed record for the nose so......
uhm, i might be ignorant but i assume this is NOT the route honnold free solo'd. i dont think he wants to die
Just hatred and jealousy. Good job.
Great to see so realist film! The diary is amazing
Love this, watched so many times...dude is so honest. And fairplay to the Italian dude.x
Jorg needs a better French toast recipe.
It's something we do in the Netherlands.....
+Scott Strong it's a variation on french toast. i prep mine like jorg does
+canopypilot o my god thats genius
I average one large egg per slice ;) I put in a little dash of cream and some cinnamon as well
Jovainy Jonkman
Ahhh! OK. I had no idea. Thanks for the info!
So lucky to live 3 hours away and live in an area with hella good bouldering
Amazing! Thanks for the inspiration and upload ^_^
Mad respect!
Inspirational! El Cap, I'll see you in 2019!
Good luck!
Did you go?
@@arielw3178 Sadly no, I started up my own company and my climbing has suffered as a result. I still want to get out there, but it seems more and more like a pipe dream at moment.
@@ClimbingRob ah el cap will be there when you have the time it can wait, good luck
what's the name of the song from the begining(0.40-1.13s)?
Yosemite - Michael Wideburg
@@jesperhagstrom i love you
Free falling by tom petty
This was the most interesting and engaging film I've seen in the grindy rock climbing travelogue genre. Loved how much detail about the route was explained in ways that were comprehensible, as a result, it was a lot easier to connect to his struggles emotionally.
You should watch The dawn wall then (it's on netflix)
I have seen this few times and I think it is the one of best climbing movies ever made in terms of personal anxiety and true grit. There are many stories and stories of course in climbing history.
"the fall of 2014" intro scared me at a glance lol these give me so much anxiety 😳😂😂😂 D:
watching this makes Honnold look all the crazier
Because you know nothing about climbing and only watched free solo and think you even know a tiny bit when you don’t. There’s a difference between him and them and you’re missing jt
@@ItzzTesta not really, he free soloed a route up el cap, maybe not the hardest one, but he did it. And this documentary just shows how amazing an achievement it was.
@@elastronaute1198 His accomplishment is absolutely incredible, but not nearly on the same difficulty level as the nose. This is a show of physical strength and ability, where Honnold's free solo of freerider is a show of mental ability.
Many climbers can physically free climb freerider. It takes skill, but it's doable for a moderately serious climber with some big wall experience. The nose, however, is one of those things that almost nobody can do free.
Why are you so angry Testa?
@@jonathang.1502 you do realize that Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold free climbed the nose in less than 2 HOURS right? So I'm perplexed as to why you feel the need to bash on Alex
Fantastic video. I’m not a climber but I’m completely enthralled by people that climb El Capitan.
Very well made video, thank you.
I did the math and found out that el cap is literally like 80 walls of your regular size indoor climbing wall! !
Mad Ferret!! :)
wtf
Tyler Durden and with far less to hold unto!
The Italian guy was hilarious!
so inspiring !
why do i keep myself watching these climbing movie.. makes my palms sweaty everytime
I am wondering the camera man.
Those guys descend from the top. Yeah I know, not that cool. :(
Still impressive - the way they sometimes setup the cameras.
These climbers wish they were the camera men at any hard point. They don't even climb down there lowered by winches no climbing just hanging...
@Al Castill they're actually just sitting in their living room controlling a drone... Jimmy is a paid actor. I'm pretty sure he leaked where 90% of free solo was filmed in a studio with cgi.
@@ispartacus1337 Haha that just make my morning!
19:30 I am on the edge of my chair talking to myself. "You got it man, Its yours. You got this, relax man. Let it come to you. It yours", Man that is a fine piece of filming that is. I need to decompress after that.
Someone mind telling me who and how the hell 20:13 was filmed.
+utuberine 20:13 was filmbed, I belive, by Jon Glassberg of Louder than 11 and it was shot using a longer lens, most likely a 70-200
AMAZING UPLOAD
All about that mentality. Beautiful.
Does anybody have the soundtrack for this? That song at the beginning is amazing!!!!!!
My sweat is handing
My hands literally sweat involuntarily as I watched this!
incredible footage
"..i made it to ...and screamed wildly! jaaaaaaaaaaah" xD
Ascent of the most famous route in the world, requires training,
If you are looking for climbing training, search in you tube "Climbing Workouts - Essential Training"
Crazy strength and endurance. My bowels hiccup uncontrollably at certain spots.
Easier (more pleasurable) to watch for me than the free soloing videos, knowing that if they fall they probably won't die.
Probably not going to free climb The Nose but this video was very enjoyable... Jorg kept it together really nicely... Tommy's and Lynn intervention made the video even more worthwhile.
Does anyone know who does that Yosemite song ?
Edgar Rotonda tallest man on earth
EZPrAnCs thank you!
do you happen to know the name of the song? Can't seem to find it.
Edgar Rotonda .....Snoop Dogg
did you ever find it lmaoo im looking too
Yosemite by Michael Wideburg (me), sorry for the long wait, it's on spotify, and thanks for the tallert man on earth reference, he's one of my favorites
awesome effort dude but i was s***ing my self for u when u clipped the runner after the bolt on changing corners pitch it was running at right angles around that arete if you had come of it could have just cut straight through glad u made it and again awesome effort
Is "arete" now. I thought it was still "aight".
Brilliant video!!!
Amazing vid/doc. Thank you La Sportiva and whoever else contributed to it.
+TristanDeCunha Oh, LouderThan11 - got it. Very informative and inspiring at the same time.
c'è il sentiero! (cit.)
They should shoot a video of the guy shooting the video of the guy shooting the guy shooting the video.
Nice work! Thanks for sharing the video. Training season psyche is high.
Beautiful filming indeed ! 👏