Thank you so much you're the only one that properly explains how to put this together the easy way headache-free without causing gouges up the line thank you
Your voice is incredibly soothing. I almost didn’t pay attention to the vid 🤣😂 I cant wait til my hubby gets home so I can get testing the fuel line 💃🏾💃🏾💃🏾💃🏾 This is weirdly exciting 🤣😂🤣
Your tutorial is like an evil dead Ash closeup weapons making montage. “Grooovy....” This was smooth, I’m going to try and fix my leak on my Saab right before the check valve over the fuel pump.
Thank you, that is exactly what I was looking for, that 2nd method w/hair dryer. I received one unit (Fuel Pump Assembly for 2001 Saturn SL2), it is OEM, but the central tube isn't pushed all the way to the end, like a gap ~2mm to where it is supposed to be. I thought maybe to use heat gun a bit, but was afraid to damage the tube (and the unit is ~$330), as was said in the film. But the hair dryer won't hurt anything. Also that type of connections you can see on many aftermarket FPs, if you want to replace just the motor, you would need to disconnect and put back a lot of those w/wavy surface.
Thanks for these quick and easy tips! Now I can replace my broken quick release valve on my return line hose a without spending a fortune for a new one. Video was very well done also. Short, sweet, to the point and very informative 👍
Wow... liked and subscribed. The calming voice is such a nice contrast to the swearing that usually goes on when I'm messing with any kind of automotive plumbing!
You are a lifesaver my guy. I've been looking for a helpful video on how to solve this issue with my Foxbody Mustang. I wanted to do the job the correct way instead of rigging something up. This video was greatly appreciated
Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for re-connecting opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposes to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
This was amazing. Thank you for keeping it simple, easy, and informative. I’m struggling with the quick connect to my fuel rail and I think now I can try it again
Fantastic thankyou repaired my nylon car fuel line after the garage split the nylon pipe replacing my fuel filter . The part I needed was not manufactured anymore so I took a pipe from a car of the same make and year from a breakers yard and used the push on connectors as described . Purchased the connectors from amazon for £5.00 for 5 connectors. Brilliant 👏 video.
@@rbuggs3658 Get a piece of round stairway handrail, cut a 3" section, drill a straight hole (in the fuel line size you need 5/16 or 3/8) through the wood, then cut the wood with a thin bladed saw like a coping saw, this is the clamp that goes over the plastic line. Use hose clamps to hold it together.
@@rbuggs3658 ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1628357-home-brew-budget-nylon-fuel-line-tool.html read and look at the pictures, easier then explaining
@mr. kevin greenwood Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for re-connecting opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposed to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
I am awaiting some fuel line ends and unions, so glad to hear they work well, the unions. Also, that a hair drier would do the trick. I had to cut a whole to access the fuel leak. I had a factory made line I had never been able to replace, failing tiwce to remove the tank. Now, with the tank loosened a bit I easily slipped a wire down and drew the line into place. But after driving it seemed the other disconnect, the return line, leaked. Or, there was a leak on an extreme turn. In any case I have new ends and unions so--if I had damaged the factory part trying to remove the o-ring, I still have a way to go with new ends.
Definitely an audi a4! I am having the same issue. This was a nightmare to change. The filter leaked. The nylon split. Its been an ongoing battle to stop the leaking.
The concentric ridges from the sandpaper help seal. Scratches from inside to outside (or patches of corrosion) will leak. I'd lay down a sheet of cardboard or something rather than dropping fuel system hoses in the dirt.
Get those Cheap Filters for Tractors. The Barb is included, just cut the Line and 2 Clamps and you are ALL SET !!! Future replacement would be easier too !!!
All very good info ... but you missed out the bit about refreshing the copper sealing washers for the 'Banjo' fitting these need to be anealed (softened) by heating to to red hot and being allowed to cool .. they will then seal the banjo more easily and effectively ...
@ Steve Jacobs Haaahh Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?) for TigHtly (so idiz seald) re-connecting opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposeD to also be passing high pressures: 40-60 psi؟؟! Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else?؟ I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay on Poniak Sunfire2000 without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had 150mL ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe under the car by using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for CrImPing and *tightlysealed* re-connecting of opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposed to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi?؟! Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
Do you have a technique for making tight radius bends without creasing? I've tried all heating methods but they will crease before getting to 90*. It must be possible since the OEM nylon line I am replacing has such bends. The 3/8 fuel line piece I'm replacing makes a tight S bend within 4". I can't even get close to that.
@TubesWidener Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for re-connecting opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposes to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
Very good work. Was wondering if you could use that style of quick connect fitting. Didn't think you could. Had them with reverse osmosis system before and they work great. Just wasn't sure about gas going threw them as it eats certain plastics...,
@Milan milanello Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for cRImping and tightly re-connecting opened up rubber* fuel line/hose, that is supposed to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi?? Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else?? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
Great video, those couplers did not work for me on steel to vinyl. Steel side would slide off even after numerous times to fully seat.Have you tried using these with stainless steel fuel lines?
Did you ever find a diy solution? Only way I know is complete replacement or they have a pricey tool that makes quick disconnect flares on steel lines.
Are those fittings in any way rated to handle fuel? From what I could find, they arenonly used for air in air compressor systems. That's kind of a big deal, tou dont want the plastic degrading over time and having fuel leaking everywhere...
I installed those on my 93 ranger near the fuel tank . It was leaking somewhere , but I reconnected the the hose again and it not leaking . I dont know if I trust that on a fuel pressure line . I dont know.
There are plastic fuel lines in a intank fuel pump in a Yaris, i couldnt change the filter because they wont come off, was concerned about using heat so i just cleaned the filter with carburetor cleaner in reverse ... will hold for now.
If you have to create a certain bend , you will have to put a soft copper piece of tube inside The plastic line , heat it and make your bend then remove the copper pipe. It’s called mandrel bending. It’s so the plastic line doesn’t kink.
Alot more simpler than really is...Never explained all the possible problems,for example when heated tube collapse ..used all 3 types of heating suggestions.
If my nylon pipe is fine, but the old connector is broken, how can I remove the old connector without damaging the nylon pipe, to allow a new connector to be fitted to the old pipe?
is there a fitting that goes from one size to the other? My fuel pump has the 3/8's tube on it but then turns to 5/16 coming from the engine. So it doesn't seal!
Thank you so much you're the only one that properly explains how to put this together the easy way headache-free without causing gouges up the line thank you
Your voice is incredibly soothing. I almost didn’t pay attention to the vid 🤣😂 I cant wait til my hubby gets home so I can get testing the fuel line 💃🏾💃🏾💃🏾💃🏾 This is weirdly exciting 🤣😂🤣
Reminds me of Mr. Rodgers.
Thanks for making this video. I'm not a mechanic but I can follow easy how to instructions. I found your video to be very helpful.
Your tutorial is like an evil dead Ash closeup weapons making montage. “Grooovy....”
This was smooth, I’m going to try and fix my leak on my Saab right before the check valve over the fuel pump.
Thank you, that is exactly what I was looking for, that 2nd method w/hair dryer. I received one unit (Fuel Pump Assembly for 2001 Saturn SL2), it is OEM, but the central tube isn't pushed all the way to the end, like a gap ~2mm to where it is supposed to be. I thought maybe to use heat gun a bit, but was afraid to damage the tube (and the unit is ~$330), as was said in the film. But the hair dryer won't hurt anything. Also that type of connections you can see on many aftermarket FPs, if you want to replace just the motor, you would need to disconnect and put back a lot of those w/wavy surface.
Thanks for these quick and easy tips! Now I can replace my broken quick release valve on my return line hose a without spending a fortune for a new one. Video was very well done also. Short, sweet, to the point and very informative 👍
Thanks from the Netherlands I was kinda desperate because of easter (holiday) but now i will fix it on my own! Thanks
rock and roll man! I want to equip all of my vehicles with a fuel pressure gauge port! Thanks so much again!
Wow... liked and subscribed. The calming voice is such a nice contrast to the swearing that usually goes on when I'm messing with any kind of automotive plumbing!
haha def a more calming voice. he did say perfectly a few too many times but thats ok :P
You are a lifesaver my guy. I've been looking for a helpful video on how to solve this issue with my Foxbody Mustang. I wanted to do the job the correct way instead of rigging something up. This video was greatly appreciated
Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for re-connecting opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposes to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi
Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
This was amazing. Thank you for keeping it simple, easy, and informative. I’m struggling with the quick connect to my fuel rail and I think now I can try it again
😊😅mll😊😊 min
Fantastic thankyou repaired my nylon car fuel line after the garage split the nylon pipe replacing my fuel filter . The part I needed was not manufactured anymore so I took a pipe from a car of the same make and year from a breakers yard and used the push on connectors as described . Purchased the connectors from amazon for £5.00 for 5 connectors. Brilliant 👏 video.
You saved me lots of time and money with this tutorial. Many thanks!!!
Very very helpful with the barb fitting the proper way thanks this is what I have been looking for 🙏
Your a legend I had an issue with same plastic pipe but on the oil line for the transmission cooler, Thank you so much.
Having the same exact problem on my 06 Avalanche thanks for the tip I should have thought of this perfect fix! Thanks for the vid
Have done it the wrong way today, tomorrow I will follow these steps
You can use a caulk gun and wooden clamps to press on fittings cold.
I tried the heating methods with no luck. Using the caulk gun worked great!
can you explain the caulk gun method? thanks
@@rbuggs3658 Get a piece of round stairway handrail, cut a 3" section, drill a straight hole (in the fuel line size you need 5/16 or 3/8) through the wood, then cut the wood with a thin bladed saw like a coping saw, this is the clamp that goes over the plastic line. Use hose clamps to hold it together.
@@rbuggs3658 ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1628357-home-brew-budget-nylon-fuel-line-tool.html
read and look at the pictures, easier then explaining
Excellent info ! Many thanks from the UK !!!!
@mr. kevin greenwood
Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for re-connecting opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposed to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi
Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
You are a life saver sir. Thank you for the tip
I am awaiting some fuel line ends and unions, so glad to hear they work well, the unions. Also, that a hair drier would do the trick. I had to cut a whole to access the fuel leak. I had a factory made line I had never been able to replace, failing tiwce to remove the tank. Now, with the tank loosened a bit I easily slipped a wire down and drew the line into place. But after driving it seemed the other disconnect, the return line, leaked. Or, there was a leak on an extreme turn. In any case I have new ends and unions so--if I had damaged the factory part trying to remove the o-ring, I still have a way to go with new ends.
If you anneal the copper washers using a propane torch, they will seal better around the banjo fitting.
Definitely an audi a4! I am having the same issue. This was a nightmare to change. The filter leaked. The nylon split. Its been an ongoing battle to stop the leaking.
Tried the oil and hot water technique worked great 👍 easy peezy thx!!!
agreed good presentation no freaky faces or jabbering on about needless stuff!
Well done! This video gives me confidence.
This is great video I think this will work on my Mercedes Benz turbo coolant lines thanks
The concentric ridges from the sandpaper help seal. Scratches from inside to outside (or patches of corrosion) will leak.
I'd lay down a sheet of cardboard or something rather than dropping fuel system hoses in the dirt.
I was also wondering about those plastic couplers to plastic lines now that I seen you do it, I know what I'm going to do, thank you so much!!!!!!
Get those Cheap Filters for Tractors. The Barb is included, just cut the Line and 2 Clamps and you are ALL SET !!! Future replacement would be easier too !!!
I can’t thank you enough for your video…. !
All very good info ... but you missed out the bit about refreshing the copper sealing washers for the 'Banjo' fitting these need to be anealed (softened) by heating to to red hot and being allowed to cool .. they will then seal the banjo more easily and effectively ...
@ Steve Jacobs
Haaahh
Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?) for TigHtly (so idiz seald) re-connecting opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposeD to also be passing high pressures: 40-60 psi؟؟!
Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else?؟ I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay on Poniak Sunfire2000 without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had 150mL ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe under the car by using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
I don't think clamp is necessary, but its definitely not a bad idea.
Great video, only thing I will change is using it least 400 grit sandpaper.
Nice presentation; however, having you provide the (Dorman) part numbers of the fittings you used would have been nice.
You hero, this is exactly what I needed to know !
Thanks for the video. Subaru Nylon doesn't flex with heat btw. but may work with other vehicles.
Good video very detailed. I like your comment about shying away from a heat gun and using a hair dryer because they don't get is hot.
Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for CrImPing and *tightlysealed* re-connecting of opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposed to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi?؟!
Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
Great vidéo, thanks from France
Great vid. Plus my blood pressure just went down 20 points.
very helpful even 6 years later
Do you have a technique for making tight radius bends without creasing? I've tried all heating methods but they will crease before getting to 90*. It must be possible since the OEM nylon line I am replacing has such bends. The 3/8 fuel line piece I'm replacing makes a tight S bend within 4". I can't even get close to that.
I also need to know this
This was so helpful
Today i have done this technique
Great video answered ? About removing union couplers!!!
Any recommendations om what to use to connect steel line to a nylon gas line
Thank you. You helped me alot. I bought a hot air blower from harbor freight, but I might try the hot water first. Thank you.
Can I use the same techniques on evap lines that are hard plactic thank you very much
Daring a repairing real soon. ⛽
Excellent i learn something new
Well done 👍 thanks 🙏
The original didn't have the ear clamp on there, do you just use it for extra insurance?
Greetings Sir from Egypt. By the way you could be one of the best voice narrators in the world if you like to!
@TubesWidener
Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for re-connecting opened up rubber fuel line/hose, that is supposes to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi
Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
Very good work. Was wondering if you could use that style of quick connect fitting. Didn't think you could. Had them with reverse osmosis system before and they work great. Just wasn't sure about gas going threw them as it eats certain plastics...,
This guy’s voice fantastic! Go into radio guy who made this video!
Dude, thanks great video...fix my fuel line...
thank you
Very useful, thanks.
You are a wonderful man
Thanks from morocco
@Milan milanello
Y are "《Flush cUT》" pliers not needed (?؟!) for cRImping and tightly re-connecting opened up rubber* fuel line/hose, that is supposed to be also passing high pressures: 40-60 psi??
Y duz it sem that this ishuu iz not brot up by anybody else?? I tried a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail in engine bay without offishil fidingz from the profeshinil kit and i had ☆gasOLine LeAKinG eVERywheRe wiTH using reGUlAR WOrm** CLamPs
New drinking game. Drink every time he says perfectly.
why do I want to rent a room now at motel 6 ?
He'll leave the light on for you (after he fixes it).
@@wcurtin1962 LOL
I'm hypnotized... you are getting sleeepy.....
thanks mate
Thank you thank you
Great video, those couplers did not work for me on steel to vinyl. Steel side would slide off even after numerous times to fully seat.Have you tried using these with stainless steel fuel lines?
Did you ever find a diy solution? Only way I know is complete replacement or they have a pricey tool that makes quick disconnect flares on steel lines.
Thank You!!
Great Video!, Thanks
Could I take the nylon tubing off a purge valve with a heat gun like you use it to put nylon tubing on?
You're a pro
Great video
You’re the best.
Where can I buy those compression fittings? Are they for fuel ?
Great video 💯
Are those fittings in any way rated to handle fuel? From what I could find, they arenonly used for air in air compressor systems.
That's kind of a big deal, tou dont want the plastic degrading over time and having fuel leaking everywhere...
I installed those on my 93 ranger near the fuel tank . It was leaking somewhere , but I reconnected the the hose again and it not leaking . I dont know if I trust that on a fuel pressure line . I dont know.
Can they work on hydraulic clutch lines?
There are plastic fuel lines in a intank fuel pump in a Yaris, i couldnt change the filter because they wont come off, was concerned about using heat so i just cleaned the filter with carburetor cleaner in reverse ... will hold for now.
If you have to create a certain bend , you will have to put a soft copper piece of tube inside
The plastic line , heat it and make your bend then remove the copper pipe. It’s called mandrel bending. It’s so the plastic line doesn’t kink.
thank you bud , i used the boiling water ,, think i will use the hair dryer now top man
Alot more simpler than really is...Never explained all the possible problems,for example when heated tube collapse ..used all 3 types of heating suggestions.
Thanks 👍
Are all push fit connectors fuel safe please. I dont see your link for that , I am at present repairing 4mm Nylon return fuel line .
I use the dorman jig to push the tube on because I wind up kinking it when I use my fingers.
I suppose this would not work with GDI high pressure fuel lines with pressures from 50 to 200 psi right?
If my nylon pipe is fine, but the old connector is broken, how can I remove the old connector without damaging the nylon pipe, to allow a new connector to be fitted to the old pipe?
Great video, thanks for the info.
what did you use PA6 or PA12 tube?
tnx
very informative thanks.
How do I make the new hose into a certain shape as my old hose has a certain shape to it?
Thanks, good video.
Where can I guy one of those barb fittings. My saab doesnt have one even tho it should
Repair work was perfect and video was perfectly done. ;) Sub'd. Thanks for sharing!
where do i get the clamps
I Like you video. Thank very much
👍
at 2:20 why are we working in the dirt Mr. everything must be sanded and clean ???
Yourrrr Listening to the easyyyy sounds of 103.5FM The harp ....So sit right back enjoy Anddd let your paint brush cover up a multitude of sins
Perfect
Sweet
smart
is there a fitting that goes from one size to the other? My fuel pump has the 3/8's tube on it but then turns to 5/16 coming from the engine. So it doesn't seal!
Napa has a book that has a reducer compression coupler in it goes from 3/8 to 5/16.