Great video! When the bearing fails if usually damages hub and knuckle parts (fretting is most common damage) so changing the bearing only will cause repeated failure.Based on the experience, the aftermarket bearing and hub are usually inferior quality compared to genuine part and garage press is no match for the factory press with guide rod that is going trough the lower plate. So far getting used knuckle assembly form PYP was the best solution for me (of course I tested it to make sure there is no play or noise
That’s a great point, and something to consider. I’m sure others would appreciate the link if you can post it. I found a good online OEM retailer (hondaautomotivepartsonline.com) and have started to buy OEM in favor of aftermarket. I told my son to keep a very close eye (ear?) on it. Thanks!
@@joeshomeshop PYP is another name for LKQ "pick your part" self service auto wrecking. So I referring to used steering knuckle assembly. The bearing usually fails after significant mechanical impact (including hitting stuck brake rotor or CV axle with the hammer)
Good job on the video I know filming and editing these jobs is a pain. I would guess that the bearing wasn’t torqued correctly last time and that is what caused your premature failure. I’ve never seen the cv nut back off like that before. You may have premature failure again with the improper hub installation. It can cause little dents in the bearing races that cause wear. Hopefully you got lucky and no harm was done. The wheel speed sensor never comes out where I live so I unplug it at the wheel well connector and leave it in the knuckle. You just have to be careful when pressing. I’ve had the 10mm bolt snap off before so I try not to touch it. So far I’ve actually had good luck with NSK bearings I have one that has 70k miles on it and its still going. I really don’t recommend cheaper 1 year warranty bearings for this type of job unless you plan on selling the car in the next month.
Hi!! I'd like to know if your honda fit is made in USA or Japan? And what's the size of the front wheel bearing? I have a fit made in Brazil and currently I'm having a lot of troubles finding the right bearing replacement because is bigger than the American and japanese versions (or at least that I've been told) but I can't find the size that I need, that's why I ask you about the size your car uses, that can give some orientation. Thanks a lot for your help, greetings!!
I can’t be sure, but I believe it was made in Japan. The MasterPro and Precision Bearing part # is 510091. Dimensions are OD 74 mm, ID 38 mm, thick/height 40 mm. Hope this helps!
Great video!
When the bearing fails if usually damages hub and knuckle parts (fretting is most common damage) so changing the bearing only will cause repeated failure.Based on the experience, the aftermarket bearing and hub are usually inferior quality compared to genuine part and garage press is no match for the factory press with guide rod that is going trough the lower plate. So far getting used knuckle assembly form PYP was the best solution for me (of course I tested it to make sure there is no play or noise
That’s a great point, and something to consider. I’m sure others would appreciate the link if you can post it. I found a good online OEM retailer (hondaautomotivepartsonline.com) and have started to buy OEM in favor of aftermarket. I told my son to keep a very close eye (ear?) on it. Thanks!
@@joeshomeshop PYP is another name for LKQ "pick your part" self service auto wrecking. So I referring to used steering knuckle assembly. The bearing usually fails after significant mechanical impact (including hitting stuck brake rotor or CV axle with the hammer)
@@mkrp4Ah, I got it now.
Good job on the video I know filming and editing these jobs is a pain.
I would guess that the bearing wasn’t torqued correctly last time and that is what caused your premature failure. I’ve never seen the cv nut back off like that before.
You may have premature failure again with the improper hub installation. It can cause little dents in the bearing races that cause wear. Hopefully you got lucky and no harm was done.
The wheel speed sensor never comes out where I live so I unplug it at the wheel well connector and leave it in the knuckle. You just have to be careful when pressing. I’ve had the 10mm bolt snap off before so I try not to touch it.
So far I’ve actually had good luck with NSK bearings I have one that has 70k miles on it and its still going.
I really don’t recommend cheaper 1 year warranty bearings for this type of job unless you plan on selling the car in the next month.
Appreciate the comments. Yep, I obviously wasn’t paying attention and we’ll be watching/listening for signs of it going bad again.
Hi!! I'd like to know if your honda fit is made in USA or Japan? And what's the size of the front wheel bearing?
I have a fit made in Brazil and currently I'm having a lot of troubles finding the right bearing replacement because is bigger than the American and japanese versions (or at least that I've been told) but I can't find the size that I need, that's why I ask you about the size your car uses, that can give some orientation.
Thanks a lot for your help, greetings!!
I can’t be sure, but I believe it was made in Japan. The MasterPro and Precision Bearing part # is 510091. Dimensions are OD 74 mm, ID 38 mm, thick/height 40 mm. Hope this helps!
@@joeshomeshop thank you very much!! It can be useful, I hope. Thanks for your quick response!! Have a nice day.