Bob, thank you sharing your experience with the different welding processes and for all you’ve done for the online welding community. I appreciate your knowledge and craftsmanship. They don’t make em like you anymore. Hope all is well with you.
Bob I have started welding for the first time yesterday 02/17/2021. I am a Freshman in Highschool, and I would like to be a welder in the future and watching this video helps me so that I know what to do, and not to do. On Friday (02/19/2021) I will go weld again. I've watched tons of you're video's and they help A LOT.
A man after my own heart. I got taught in shop from sophomore to senior year. It's a good trade to know early; beats the hell out of you, and you're eyes. Old welders generally swear a lot.
this video came on from auto play. I couldnt stop watching. ended up watching the whole thing. Actually help answered some of the issues I have been having
Bob I got neat little trick I picked up from one my boilermaker friends that I'm sure you and your students would like to acknowlege with 7018 glassovers. As soon as you're done welding, flick the stinger and you'll be able to whip off the fluid flux before it hardens.
It may be the most hated rod here in America. I think mostly that's from a lack of practice with it. Here we use 6010 for root,and sometimes hot pass,but that's usually followed by 7018 or some other low hydrogen rod. 6010 is used almost exclusively on API code pipe line. Therefore it's just not taught that extensively. At one time they were used a lot sometimes big ones too, like 5/16, on train cars, and ships, and barges. Because of arc blow elimination. But, they are a different animal, and take practice as with any other welding process. But, I have saw some slick welds with them, even on code pipe from Europe. Back many moons ago when I was in welding school I had to pass all positions on plate with it, before I could pass on to 6010, then 7018, then on to tig. But, truly here they're good farm rods, and that's about it because no American codes that I know of call for it. God bless and work safe y'all.
Thanks Bob. Good tips. As a beginner I think I made the right choice by asking for 6013; though the seller told me that this is not a common rod used by the professionals and even the other videos that I watched, some people were definitely not in favor of this rod. Thanks once again.
My high school welding instructor started us with 6013 and he would always tell us Practice Practice Practice Practice. That’s how I got better at welding. I am now in my fifth semester of college taking welding.
Thank you sir. I’ve learned so much from you. This is in my blood. My grandfather was a Navy SeaBee during the island hopping of WWII. He survived and made an honest career as a welder. I’m the only one in my family like him. It’s in me. I want to tap into the passion trying to get out. I need to go to welding school and make a career change. 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Have you went into a trade yet? I'm a commercial HVAC electrician. I work alongside pipe fitters and plumbers, and welders. I've seen all the trades, and I'm going to suggest that you go into the "06" electrical trade, doing HVAC commercial electrical work, and get hired by a Union company. Call up your local electrical "Local Union" in your area. Ask them what is required to become an apprentice. All you have to do is pay $50 for an "electrical trainee card" from the state. Then once you have that piece of paper, you go to the "Union Hall" and you "sign the books" and they will find an employer for you, and you can go to work immedietely as an "HVAC electrician apprentice." I would not recommend being a general electrician, because they work outdoors, and they mainly only install conduits 5 days a week. In HVAC electrician, it's considered "Low Voltage" or "Controls" electrician, and we do the finite work, installing some conduits, but doing a lot of wiring of small computerized panels with 24 volts on them, and hooking up small relays inside of motor switch gear, and pulling low voltage wires, and we never work on large high amperage panels, or energized equipment, and we don't EVER work outdoors.
@@Ritalie I appreciate the information 🙏. I’m actually a full time career paramedic, but always considering a fallback plan if not a retirement gig. I love working with my hands and it’s in my blood. My grandfather was a career welder and who knows what else. I have a shop at my house and I’m always into something out there, perhaps trying to create a side huddle or just keeping my mind engaged and continuing to learn something new. Great info on the HVAC route, I see those guys everywhere. I’m in Texas, so I’ll look up the steps. 🙏
3/4ths of Vegas is held together with 6013. The EIFS panels are welded with 6013 and 7014 in the panel yard. Then they fly them into position with a crane and attach them to the building's concrete embedded steel brackets. Everything from The Palms Casino to Caesars Palace has these prefabbed panels. The contractors use AC Lincoln buzz boxes. Sometimes they use 6011 on the 16 gauge red iron studs but mostly 6013.
I really appreciate you sharing your experience. We are a very lucky generation to be able to learn from people like you with so much experience to pass on.
6013 is the bomb for ⅛" angle iron. It makes such pretty beads and is easy to strike/restrike. It can do any angle except maybe uphill. My go-to rod, for sure.
6013 is my go to rod as well I have stuck so many 6011 rods that I have been using mostly 6013 and 7018 as well they are both very easy to strike the arc with
Firstly I want to say that your channel is one that I visit often. Your wealth of knowledge and detailed information in your videos are excellent! I’ve been welding stick for quite a few years, where I was running AC machines. I just recently bought a DC inverter. Never run one before, and I haven’t had it for that long. But only yesterday, I’ve had my first encounter with arc blow (that I can remember anyway). I’ve never really experienced It before, so it had me stumped as to what was going on! My basic understanding of arc blow is that it is generally caused by some form of magnetic field disturbance. After a lot of self inflicted brain damage trying to get to the bottom of it, I came to the conclusion that this new DC lunch box might be really sensitive to the magnetic clamps I had on my bench. Took them off and put them out of the way. No more arc blow! Maybe coincidental. But it seemed to fix the problem! Thank you for all your expertise! Keep up the great work!
Thanks for video Bob! Been welding many years and took desk job 2 years ago. Enjoying backyard welding with miller 215. Picked up some 6013 as one of my old favorites for easy welds
I've been using 6013, off and on, to make useful things, for about 35 years now. It will probably still be here when I'm gone. I haven't done too much in the last 10 years, so to prepare to fire up the 120Volt / 100Amp AC machine, I was watching any kind of welding video to be found on You-Tube. I was learning about the new technologies, but also just watching a lot of welders running beads, good and bad. I could have easily missed this one, because what is there to be learned about common as dirt 6013. Little did I know how little I knew. Thank you for taking this very humble topic seriously, because 6013 is everywhere, and will be when we are gone. Also thanks for passing on the tip of using the stubs as filler at the start of a bead, sort of Texas-Tig like. Even normies who don't have frugal-recycle-compulsive disorder can appreciate this trick.
A little tip I've found fixing oil tanks for arc blow because you can only move your ground so much without it holdin up work is to when you start getting arc blow use a push angle with the electrode and it will help. Not eliminate but definitely help. If not do what bob said and stop and run the weld from the other direction back to tie it together
5:55 you can also weld from the other direction, or loop your stinger cord in a circle around what you welding, run a really short arc also helps a bit too.
Thanks for vids. My boys and I are using this 6013 rod and 1/8 scrap steel to learn the basics in welding. I'm treating it as "Shop Class" for home school.
Thanks Bob, I have learned more from you in 6 month than most other so called Guru's on the Tube. I do appreciate you doing a video on 6013 and they are my go to rods for most everything thing. Those and 7018s.
Hi Bob, Thank you so much for putting out the videos. Can't wait to see Mr. Putnam's burn bar demo. I really appreciate seeing the blowouts that I experience; makes you totally legit.
Always enjoy your video. I recently came across a video on magnetic arc blow. I was using a magnet to support 2 pieces of metal. Was a wild moment. Your video adds to my learning.
6013 is the only rod that works for me. Every other rod just sparks and sticks, sparks and sticks. If I can run 3 passes of 6013 that works for me, and three passes of 6013 is going to be as strong as one pass of 7018, that I can't get to do anything at all for me, then screw it... why try harder? I'm on a farm, I don't have to pass any inspectors, and I use whatever works for me.
Hey Bob.... Here is the question: can you do root pass on a pipe, or at least on a plate in a 3G uphill (PF) possition? Its a common practice in europe...
Im having trouble with a weld we have to do as a part of plumbing school in australia. It’s an internal flange weld but the way that make us practise it is by cutting a 10mm wide piece of 80mm steel pipe and putting it on a flat steel plate and welding the inside edge of the pipe to the plate. We use the 6013 electrode too.
When I was at B.H.P Steelworks Australia 30 years ago, 6013 in 3/32 or 1/8 was our go to for nearly anything, we occasionally used 6011 for digging in on rusty material, and then go to 6013 for the rest of the job, we only had AC welders there, and I'm a fitter, we were only taught on AC welders. The Boilermakers would use AC OR a mobile diesel welder, they were DC.
Hey nice video! I think one of the issues people have with this rod is that they run it to cold and create slag inclusions (ask me how i know haha). Could you maybe do a video compairing different rods for ex: 6010 to 8010 or 7018 to 11018. And maybe a video on stickwelding with stainless rods. Keep up the great work!!
Split earth cable to have 2 clamps on it helps arc blow too, especially when welding structural sections. We do it using a mig shroud from an MB36 torch. Put both cables with the clamps in one end (twiseted together) and the end with the dinse connecfor for the machine in the other end, then squeeze up in a vice and finish off by hammering it flat. Bit of electrical tape around the shroud to stop it shorting out if its laying on whatever you're welding
Imagine how much fun I was having trying to weld in a patch panel upside down. Definitely likes it's fluid state, worked much better from the inside out.
New question! When using rods that allow DCEN, DCEP, and/or AC it would be great to know the effect on the weld using the different voltage polarities.
Great info here. I have had the arc blow and it is from running to hot. The combo of the base metal and rod heating up. 7018 will do the same heating, but the flux helps control this a bit.
for the arc blow .what i do is use a piece of scrap metal at the end of the piece im welding ,hold there any way thats fine and no arc blow .the reason for the arc blow in the first place is the electric field is not complete but when using metal at the end that complete the electric field is complete
Great video, Bob. I use 6013 often, thanks for not trashing it like so many pros do. It has it's place as long as you're not building bridges. I have a buzz box and would like to see a video on 6011, just because my 6011 welds are pretty ugly compared to when I run 6013 7014 or 7018AC. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again, keep up the great videos.
In my school shop class, back in the day, I was told by the shop teacher than 6011 is supposed to be really ugly, but it has massive penetration, and if you need something to look nice, use the 7018, but you should always use 6011 whenever possible. I don't think anyone can make 6011 look good, because it isn't very fluid, and so it's really difficult to make a nice flowy bead. I've always been an outstanding welder, and my 6011 welds were always really ugly, despite having perfect technique. My MIG weld and 7018 welds look very nice, with a perfect width and consistency. It probably takes decades of professsional welding to make "pretty" 6011 beads, and I suspect you'd need to be using really high amps, and really melting the background material a lot, to make up for the "fast freeze" and lack of fluidity.
@@Ritalie - 6011 is actually an excellent rod - it's the AC version of 6010, which has been used for decades for pipe welding, and welding rusty/dirty materials, etc. It has great penetration and has very fast freeze characteristics. That's why 6010 is used for pipe, you can really control the puddle all the way around the pipe. Because of it's fast freeze properties, you need to use a whip technique, and when done consistently, it will leave a beautiful stack-of-dimes profile. If you just drag it like you would with 7018, 7014, 7024, 6013, etc., it will leave a very inconsistent bead profile. Focus on being consistent with your whip technique, whip the same distance forward and back every time, you'll be very impressed with the stack-of-dimes result. And running 6011 with AC eliminates arc blow (very common with DC in corners and when running in the higher amp range of a rod), and the light slag makes it an excellent choice for welds in corners, etc., you won't have the slag inclusion problems that can be hard to overcome with some other rods. 6011 is also a great choice for root beads, and you can follow it up with other production rods in the 2nd and 3rd passes, etc., to get a prettier final profile, if desired.
Hi, love your videos! One thing about 6013: I'm under the impression that in the states everybody just refers to "the" 6013 rod, while in europe there's different types of 6013. Oerlikon for example has like 10 different 6013 rods. Thick rutile, normal rutile, rutile-cellulose, rutil-basic, ... Some do vertical down, some don't, some are DCEP, some are DCEN, ... btw, Oerlikon was recently acquired by Lincoln, so maybe you'll see more of these in the us in the future. I'd love a video going into the finer details of different 6013. Especially with welding 2mm thickness round/square tube in different positions. Yeah, not an ideal combination but on a small boat there's always wind, gas is a safety issue anyways (heavier than air, no ventilation holes in the bottom of the boat) and space is at a premium. Plus, stuff is mostly attached to the boat so you've not much say in choosing you position.
Horst Kotte 2mm thick is harder to weld without blowing through it, there are thinner electrodes available at 1.5-1.6mm thickness, alternately try dcen so that more heat is concentrated in the electrode
I'm learning with 2.5mm thickness mild steel Angle bar, Flat bar and Square tubing. All 40x40mm or there abouts but I'm struggling with the E6013 rods I have. I was told to weld at 40-45A with 1.6/2.0 rods.. I know u guys don't use a lot of thinner stock or the thinner rods like I have but I would appreciate if u could show me any useful tips to get good penetration without burning through the thinner 2.5mm mild steel.. Thanks man..
thanks bob!! i learnt with 6013. i was taught to lean the rod like that too. not as much detail though. as 6013 is really common here, is was good to see you use 6013 and show us how to use them properly.
How about a video of downhill pipe welding cap pass? Been doing that in school and I've been having trouble at the bottom of the pipe where I tie into the other side of that cap. Running 5/32" 7010 at about 110 amps (give or take five amps). Also a demonstration with 3/16" 7010 or 8010 would be cool.
I worked with and old welder and he never threw his used rods away he used them for fill and I watch him weld two peices of 3/4 plate with live stick and dead stick and in one pass he made that weld look like you had used a hugh stick to weld that peice togther never forget that old welder and what he taught me
great demo man, 6013 is a nice rod but it requires a loooot practice to anticipate for when things are going to go south, i didn`t knew the trick with the rod you showed i`ll try it as soon as i can. one never stops learning this trade. thanks man. pete
I'm actually quite a fan of the inexpensive, small 1/16 6013s they sell at HF. I had to do some outdoor, in position field welding on ornamental ironwork where I needed an articulate, low penetrating stick rod for a small inverter welder. Those things were totally the ticket.
KING TROLL Here in UK, a lot of welding is done with 6013, process piping and tanks for oil industry, small vessels, also used a lot in shipyards too for years. Yes very high pressure stuff usually done with 7018 although now going over more and more to GS fluxcore or even spray transfer MIG, unless welded outside in situ obviously
Well i mean, call it as you see it. It's not really used much in American industry work... Why? Because as said, It's fairly useless. I've never experienced what he said. They stick pretty easy. they're not to smooth and thick slag, which is a good plus. Other then that I'll use the rod more when i move to the UK and do pipe work there.
Great tutorial Bob. I found out the hard way how 6013 electrodes tend to blow thru.. Novice with a cheap Chinese TIG/MMA. Your channel and videos have learned me a lot in a very short space of time.. Kudos. And thank you Sir...
Hallo Bob, congratulations for your good videos. They do help us a lot. I would like to ask you to explain me how the Arc ignition Time and the Arc Force help us to avoid sticking of the electrodes? For example, I would like to weld tow pieces of metal (3 and 3 mm each) with the E6013 electrode. How many Amps should I use and at what numbers should I put the Arc ignition time and Arc Force to avoid sticking. Thanks again. Spiros.
Guys use 6013 on inverter wleders. 6010 runs a bit rough on them. I guess I should say a/c rods are run on inverter welders. If you are just learning how to run a bead on different welders, it good to try and understand how the wave form affects your arc.
I noticed with dual shield flux core where I work you get major arc blow towards the end of a weld if it’s thinner stuff because the metal gets way too hot. If you start from the end and go to the middle it doesn’t do it
I got a little bit of arc blow once when welding with my everlast welder. It was because I had the arc too close to a strong magnet I had holding the pieces together.
I would love you to get the opportunity to try some of the high quality 6013 we get here in the U.K. Some real nice stuff is available. Excellent out of position
Crazy question but could a strong magnet have an affect on the arc? I often use 45 degree magnets to help keep thin metal tubing square and still. Im usually in 50-60 amp range on DCEP and Ive often had arc blow close to the magnet.
Yes. I've experimented with making arcs using a car ignition coil, and when a magnet is placed by the continuous spark, the spark spreads out and becomes twice as large, and less focused. I think the high current going through the material creates magnetized metal, because DC polarity magnetizes metal. The solution would be to ground your work table to the welding ground, so current is flowing evenly through the metal being welded. If you only have power flowing from one side of the metal to the other, then you will get a solidly magnetized piece of metal. Another option is to clamp two ground clamps, one on each end of the material, which may cancel out the unidirectional current and corresponding magnetization.
Haven’t ran rod since welding school and we’ve changed to it from dual shield on tanks at work. The struggle is real. Appreciate any tips or tricks Bobby. (7024&7018)🤙🏼
anotherrandomtexan25 uphill on repairs. Any leaks and we just grind it out and burn it in any position. I ain’t rollin a 2000 gallon tank for a couple inches😏🤙🏼she said the same thing🤔
@@grantrichardson2185 1/8 or 5/32? Been awhile since I've done a lot of uphill 7018 but usually if I keep a real tight arc with a little circle motion makes it come out real nice if its a purely flat up, and by that I mean if there's nothing butted up against another plate or something in which case I'd do a little xmas tree motion, which is pretty similar to what'd I do with vertical dual shield to make it look nice... why the hell would they get away from dual shield for that kinda stuff? Its all we used except when rolling tank rings and making decks and floors
anotherrandomtexan25 3/32,1/8&5/32 with 7018. 1/8&5/32 with 7024. Were a little ahead of schedule and I think they’re cutting cost of gas out. Who fuckin knows honestly. But it’s humbling. I’ll have to give the ol curly Q uphill a whirl like u mentioned. I usually weave it, but shit doesn’t tie in well with everything that’s already ran flat. But that stays between us🤫🤣 the heads are offset 1/2” so we’re dealing with fillet joints besides seams and flanges.
I use 6013's at work on carbon steel bladed rotors from 150mm-750mm some have up to 12 vanes, I've given up on dcep as arc blow does my fckn head in no matter how I ground.. I use dcen and add 20 amps works a treat.. GE has a great video on arc blow from the 50's on youtube
started with 1/8 6013 hobart rods bout 62 yrs ago ,to me the hobart rod is better welding than the other brands,i built ornamental iron and most everything was 16 gage and cast to tubing
I'd like to see more stick welding videos too. I normally mig weld but now I'm trying to learn how to stick weld on my Everlast welder. I'm still trying to get used to the electrode getting shorter as I weld!
Thanks for the information at the very beginning. I'm a beginner welder, full time manual Machinist though lol so I'm trying to teach myself on how to arc weld. I have a Deko Super Power DKUS-MMA160A 110v/220v, I'm assuming it's a straight DC welder and it doesn't like 6010 1/16" rod but when it comes to the 6013 3/32" rod and 7018 3/32" rod running at 115 amps runs smoothly. If you have any beginner tips for me fill me in please! Thanks Bob!
Here's a good challenge for you. I'd love to see 7028 rods used. i have an open metal box of them. only did some practice stringers and welds with them. but they have been kept in a dry and heated garage at a university campus for several decades I'm told. So I'm curious as to what they are like to weld with
Hello Bob. Thanks for all the welding videos, I enjoy watching them and occasionally I pick up some tips. I have one request for you, please use better exhaust when welding. Your helmet is all covered with smoke and make a bad example for future welders. BR Povl
Great video with lots of helpful tips. I especially like the use of spent rods on the weld starts. Will have to try that TODAY! You mentioned 6013 for training, ease of learning, etc. I noticed from other videos that most avoid 6013 in favor of 6010/11 for root then 7018 for rest. I was wondering just where 6013 should and should not be used? Off hand I would think not to use 6013 for any structural or critical welds due to the lesser penetration aspects. But I am not a pro, just an old man learning.
Tom Herd it is used in pipe welding and structural welding in europe Britain ect... here in serbia if you cant do open root pipe weld you cant get a weld cert. It is a norm.
Tom Herd and it is fun electrode for vertical up. if you set machine a little bit on colder side than slag won't peel of of the plate after each electrode and you can stack slag continuously for 10 inches or more, and get 10 inches of slag peel that is standing at 40 degrees lift on that plate. Weld will be crapy but that slag lift will be top notch lol. Great for braging on social media and nothing else xD.
In the Philippines almost everybody uses 6013, they spot weld everything together. Almost none of the small shops use anything else. They don't use rod ovens and this is a hot and humid climate. They also don't normally have clean metal to weld on, most metal over here is what ever scrap is laying around. Wouldn't 6011 be better for most things? Most are also using the cheap light weight inverters for everything.
Bob, thank you sharing your experience with the different welding processes and for all you’ve done for the online welding community. I appreciate your knowledge and craftsmanship. They don’t make em like you anymore. Hope all is well with you.
Bob I have started welding for the first time yesterday 02/17/2021. I am a Freshman in Highschool, and I would like to be a welder in the future and watching this video helps me so that I know what to do, and not to do. On Friday (02/19/2021) I will go weld again. I've watched tons of you're video's and they help A LOT.
A man after my own heart. I got taught in shop from sophomore to senior year. It's a good trade to know early; beats the hell out of you, and you're eyes. Old welders generally swear a lot.
Great to have someone as knowledgable as you talk about this subject. I’ve been welding since 1988 and I still learn from your channel. Thank you.
Only a teacher will keep an open mind on 6013 rods. It's a fun rod to work with. Excellent video.👍👍
Great teacher, he know's his business. Not like a lot of Yutubers who say and tell atrocious information. Well done.
this video came on from auto play. I couldnt stop watching. ended up watching the whole thing. Actually help answered some of the issues I have been having
I use 6013 rods for general assembly and tacking, works great for short runs
Bob I got neat little trick I picked up from one my boilermaker friends that I'm sure you and your students would like to acknowlege with 7018 glassovers. As soon as you're done welding, flick the stinger and you'll be able to whip off the fluid flux before it hardens.
it's so rare to see 6013 mentioned in American videos. Here in the UK it is the most common rod to come across and is the only type I have ever used.
It is the most popular rod in the planet. The guys who make gates in Mexico use this rod.👍
It may be the most hated rod here in America. I think mostly that's from a lack of practice with it. Here we use 6010 for root,and sometimes hot pass,but that's usually followed by 7018 or some other low hydrogen rod. 6010 is used almost exclusively on API code pipe line. Therefore it's just not taught that extensively. At one time they were used a lot sometimes big ones too, like 5/16, on train cars, and ships, and barges. Because of arc blow elimination. But, they are a different animal, and take practice as with any other welding process. But, I have saw some slick welds with them, even on code pipe from Europe. Back many moons ago when I was in welding school I had to pass all positions on plate with it, before I could pass on to 6010, then 7018, then on to tig. But, truly here they're good farm rods, and that's about it because no American codes that I know of call for it. God bless and work safe y'all.
Thanks Bob. Good tips. As a beginner I think I made the right choice by asking for 6013; though the seller told me that this is not a common rod used by the professionals and even the other videos that I watched, some people were definitely not in favor of this rod. Thanks once again.
My high school welding instructor started us with 6013 and he would always tell us Practice Practice Practice Practice. That’s how I got better at welding. I am now in my fifth semester of college taking welding.
Thank you sir. I’ve learned so much from you. This is in my blood. My grandfather was a Navy SeaBee during the island hopping of WWII. He survived and made an honest career as a welder. I’m the only one in my family like him. It’s in me. I want to tap into the passion trying to get out.
I need to go to welding school and make a career change.
🙏🙏🙏🙏
Go for it, you won't look back
@@stefansk8 🙏
Have you went into a trade yet? I'm a commercial HVAC electrician. I work alongside pipe fitters and plumbers, and welders. I've seen all the trades, and I'm going to suggest that you go into the "06" electrical trade, doing HVAC commercial electrical work, and get hired by a Union company. Call up your local electrical "Local Union" in your area. Ask them what is required to become an apprentice. All you have to do is pay $50 for an "electrical trainee card" from the state. Then once you have that piece of paper, you go to the "Union Hall" and you "sign the books" and they will find an employer for you, and you can go to work immedietely as an "HVAC electrician apprentice." I would not recommend being a general electrician, because they work outdoors, and they mainly only install conduits 5 days a week. In HVAC electrician, it's considered "Low Voltage" or "Controls" electrician, and we do the finite work, installing some conduits, but doing a lot of wiring of small computerized panels with 24 volts on them, and hooking up small relays inside of motor switch gear, and pulling low voltage wires, and we never work on large high amperage panels, or energized equipment, and we don't EVER work outdoors.
@@Ritalie I appreciate the information 🙏.
I’m actually a full time career paramedic, but always considering a fallback plan if not a retirement gig. I love working with my hands and it’s in my blood. My grandfather was a career welder and who knows what else. I have a shop at my house and I’m always into something out there, perhaps trying to create a side huddle or just keeping my mind engaged and continuing to learn something new.
Great info on the HVAC route, I see those guys everywhere. I’m in Texas, so I’ll look up the steps. 🙏
3/4ths of Vegas is held together with 6013. The EIFS panels are welded with 6013 and 7014 in the panel yard. Then they fly them into position with a crane and attach them to the building's concrete embedded steel brackets. Everything from The Palms Casino to Caesars Palace has these prefabbed panels. The contractors use AC Lincoln buzz boxes. Sometimes they use 6011 on the 16 gauge red iron studs but mostly 6013.
Great job Bob. I'm sure there are viewers that would like to see you use that trick that you mentioned at the end of this video. Thanks.
+1.
I really appreciate you sharing your experience. We are a very lucky generation to be able to learn from people like you with so much experience to pass on.
6013 is the bomb for ⅛" angle iron. It makes such pretty beads and is easy to strike/restrike. It can do any angle except maybe uphill. My go-to rod, for sure.
6013 is my go to rod as well I have stuck so many 6011 rods that I have been using mostly 6013 and 7018 as well they are both very easy to strike the arc with
Uphill also no problem, as well as downhill, be the latter more for thin sheet metal
@llenar1013 is 6013 good for 3/16?
Firstly I want to say that your channel is one that I visit often. Your wealth of knowledge and detailed information in your videos are excellent!
I’ve been welding stick for quite a few years, where I was running AC machines. I just recently bought a DC inverter. Never run one before, and I haven’t had it for that long. But only yesterday, I’ve had my first encounter with arc blow (that I can remember anyway). I’ve never really experienced It before, so it had me stumped as to what was going on! My basic understanding of arc blow is that it is generally caused by some form of magnetic field disturbance. After a lot of self inflicted brain damage trying to get to the bottom of it, I came to the conclusion that this new DC lunch box might be really sensitive to the magnetic clamps I had on my bench. Took them off and put them out of the way. No more arc blow! Maybe coincidental. But it seemed to fix the problem!
Thank you for all your expertise! Keep up the great work!
Glad we could help! Keeping your ground close to your workpiece will help with the arc blow as well.
He is one of the best at teaching the trade
Thanks for video Bob! Been welding many years and took desk job 2 years ago. Enjoying backyard welding with miller 215. Picked up some 6013 as one of my old favorites for easy welds
Good thing to get into 6013. I believe it's the most common rod in the world along with 7018 and still there are so few tutorials on 6013.
plainjane
yeah
im glad i see one video about 6013...
thats the only stick available in our place
I love using the 6013 and the 7018 rods. Both have ran beautifully for me.
I just want to say that you saved people's lives with you welds. Thanks Nole! God bless!!!
I've been using 6013, off and on, to make useful things, for about 35 years now. It will probably still be here when I'm gone.
I haven't done too much in the last 10 years, so to prepare to fire up the 120Volt / 100Amp AC machine, I was watching any kind of welding video to be found on You-Tube. I was learning about the new technologies, but also just watching a lot of welders running beads, good and bad.
I could have easily missed this one, because what is there to be learned about common as dirt 6013. Little did I know how little I knew. Thank you for taking this very humble topic seriously, because 6013 is everywhere, and will be when we are gone.
Also thanks for passing on the tip of using the stubs as filler at the start of a bead, sort of Texas-Tig like. Even normies who don't have frugal-recycle-compulsive disorder can appreciate this trick.
A little tip I've found fixing oil tanks for arc blow because you can only move your ground so much without it holdin up work is to when you start getting arc blow use a push angle with the electrode and it will help. Not eliminate but definitely help. If not do what bob said and stop and run the weld from the other direction back to tie it together
I did a brake job last night and I brought the rotors home and I've been practicing on all those nice smooth hard surface
Maybe you could build them up and have them turned down....
5:55 you can also weld from the other direction, or loop your stinger cord in a circle around what you welding, run a really short arc also helps a bit too.
just saw you explain the change of direction at the end of the video. those are some solid welds although i have never run 6013
Thank you mate I use 6013 on my little hobby welder ,the guy at the welding shop put me on to them ,he knew his rods for a novist
one of the best instructors in the filed
Thanks for vids. My boys and I are using this 6013 rod and 1/8 scrap steel to learn the basics in welding. I'm treating it as "Shop Class" for home school.
What polarity?
Thanks Bob, I have learned more from you in 6 month than most other so called Guru's on the Tube. I do appreciate you doing a video on 6013 and they are my go to rods for most everything thing. Those and 7018s.
Hi Bob, Thank you so much for putting out the videos. Can't wait to see Mr. Putnam's burn bar demo. I really appreciate seeing the blowouts that I experience; makes you totally legit.
The best 6013 video going, thanks for taking the time.
Thank You for taking your time to share.Very clear clean and descriptive your success in the Artform.
Always enjoy your video. I recently came across a video on magnetic arc blow. I was using a magnet to support 2 pieces of metal. Was a wild moment. Your video adds to my learning.
6013 is the only rod that works for me.
Every other rod just sparks and sticks, sparks and sticks.
If I can run 3 passes of 6013 that works for me, and three passes of 6013 is going to be as strong as one pass of 7018, that I can't get to do anything at all for me, then screw it... why try harder? I'm on a farm, I don't have to pass any inspectors, and I use whatever works for me.
7018 won't run on some old buzz boxes. Always reverted back to 6011.
Here in Serbia 99% people use 6013 electrode, very common rod! And Nice to see how to use them properly. Thanks!
Always glad to help. Thanks for watching
SIMI.KING MOTO you can get 6013 bohler rutil celulose electrod. try it you might like it. Ici weld u zemunu ih ima.
Hey Bob.... Here is the question: can you do root pass on a pipe, or at least on a plate in a 3G uphill (PF) possition? Its a common practice in europe...
yeah and its definately very common for hobbyists. i have two types of electrodes went to look them up and they are both 6013 hah
Im having trouble with a weld we have to do as a part of plumbing school in australia. It’s an internal flange weld but the way that make us practise it is by cutting a 10mm wide piece of 80mm steel pipe and putting it on a flat steel plate and welding the inside edge of the pipe to the plate. We use the 6013 electrode too.
When I was at B.H.P Steelworks Australia 30 years ago, 6013 in 3/32 or 1/8 was our go to for nearly anything, we occasionally used 6011 for digging in on rusty material, and then go to 6013 for the rest of the job, we only had AC welders there, and I'm a fitter, we were only taught on AC welders. The Boilermakers would use AC OR a mobile diesel welder, they were DC.
Hey nice video! I think one of the issues people have with this rod is that they run it to cold and create slag inclusions (ask me how i know haha). Could you maybe do a video compairing different rods for ex: 6010 to 8010 or 7018 to 11018. And maybe a video on stickwelding with stainless rods. Keep up the great work!!
I'll add electrode comparisons to the to-do list.
Split earth cable to have 2 clamps on it helps arc blow too, especially when welding structural sections. We do it using a mig shroud from an MB36 torch. Put both cables with the clamps in one end (twiseted together) and the end with the dinse connecfor for the machine in the other end, then squeeze up in a vice and finish off by hammering it flat. Bit of electrical tape around the shroud to stop it shorting out if its laying on whatever you're welding
Imagine how much fun I was having trying to weld in a patch panel upside down. Definitely likes it's fluid state, worked much better from the inside out.
I overhead some automotive work once, my arms felt it
Thanks for the review. I have always used the 6013 rods when welding offshore that was the preferred rod used at that time.
New question! When using rods that allow DCEN, DCEP, and/or AC it would be great to know the effect on the weld using the different voltage polarities.
DCEP -- most penetration; AC -- medium penetration, DCEN -- least penetration. Main advantage of DCEP over DCEN is oxide cleaning action.
a friend of mine built a lot of stuff from .062 wall tubing...only had a small AC Lincoln machine....he really liked the 6013....nice looking beads...
Bob. Thanks for these vids. I rewatched this 8yrs later to see if I could spark a flame for 6013, but we just don't get along.
Great info here. I have had the arc blow and it is from running to hot. The combo of the base metal and rod heating up. 7018 will do the same heating, but the flux helps control this a bit.
for the arc blow .what i do is use a piece of scrap metal at the end of the piece im welding ,hold there any way thats fine and no arc blow .the reason for the arc blow in the first place is the electric field is not complete but when using metal at the end that complete the electric field is complete
i've watched alot of your video's and this the best one by far
Great video, Bob. I use 6013 often, thanks for not trashing it like so many pros do. It has it's place as long as you're not building bridges. I have a buzz box and would like to see a video on 6011, just because my 6011 welds are pretty ugly compared to when I run 6013 7014 or 7018AC. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again, keep up the great videos.
In my school shop class, back in the day, I was told by the shop teacher than 6011 is supposed to be really ugly, but it has massive penetration, and if you need something to look nice, use the 7018, but you should always use 6011 whenever possible. I don't think anyone can make 6011 look good, because it isn't very fluid, and so it's really difficult to make a nice flowy bead. I've always been an outstanding welder, and my 6011 welds were always really ugly, despite having perfect technique. My MIG weld and 7018 welds look very nice, with a perfect width and consistency. It probably takes decades of professsional welding to make "pretty" 6011 beads, and I suspect you'd need to be using really high amps, and really melting the background material a lot, to make up for the "fast freeze" and lack of fluidity.
@@Ritalie - 6011 is actually an excellent rod - it's the AC version of 6010, which has been used for decades for pipe welding, and welding rusty/dirty materials, etc. It has great penetration and has very fast freeze characteristics. That's why 6010 is used for pipe, you can really control the puddle all the way around the pipe. Because of it's fast freeze properties, you need to use a whip technique, and when done consistently, it will leave a beautiful stack-of-dimes profile. If you just drag it like you would with 7018, 7014, 7024, 6013, etc., it will leave a very inconsistent bead profile. Focus on being consistent with your whip technique, whip the same distance forward and back every time, you'll be very impressed with the stack-of-dimes result. And running 6011 with AC eliminates arc blow (very common with DC in corners and when running in the higher amp range of a rod), and the light slag makes it an excellent choice for welds in corners, etc., you won't have the slag inclusion problems that can be hard to overcome with some other rods. 6011 is also a great choice for root beads, and you can follow it up with other production rods in the 2nd and 3rd passes, etc., to get a prettier final profile, if desired.
@Terry Rust That is avery informative comment.
Hi, love your videos! One thing about 6013: I'm under the impression that in the states everybody just refers to "the" 6013 rod, while in europe there's different types of 6013. Oerlikon for example has like 10 different 6013 rods. Thick rutile, normal rutile, rutile-cellulose, rutil-basic, ... Some do vertical down, some don't, some are DCEP, some are DCEN, ... btw, Oerlikon was recently acquired by Lincoln, so maybe you'll see more of these in the us in the future.
I'd love a video going into the finer details of different 6013. Especially with welding 2mm thickness round/square tube in different positions. Yeah, not an ideal combination but on a small boat there's always wind, gas is a safety issue anyways (heavier than air, no ventilation holes in the bottom of the boat) and space is at a premium. Plus, stuff is mostly attached to the boat so you've not much say in choosing you position.
Horst Kotte 2mm thick is harder to weld without blowing through it, there are thinner electrodes available at 1.5-1.6mm thickness, alternately try dcen so that more heat is concentrated in the electrode
I'm learning with 2.5mm thickness mild steel Angle bar, Flat bar and Square tubing. All 40x40mm or there abouts but I'm struggling with the E6013 rods I have. I was told to weld at 40-45A with 1.6/2.0 rods.. I know u guys don't use a lot of thinner stock or the thinner rods like I have but I would appreciate if u could show me any useful tips to get good penetration without burning through the thinner 2.5mm mild steel.. Thanks man..
Great video, I just finished up with 6013 5/32 I'm now doing 7018 5/32 and it's awesome love the nice beads it makes !
Hopefully we were able to answer some of your questions.
I'm currently doing 1" fillet welds with these rods
Those are a lot of fun!!
thanks bob!!
i learnt with 6013. i was taught to lean the rod like that too. not as much detail though. as 6013 is really common here, is was good to see you use 6013 and show us how to use them properly.
John here just pick some 6013 today like them 7014 and 7018.like what show easy under standing and why they run on AC are wharf best
Thank you very interesting, I've not used 6013 before but thinking back there have been at least one project I could have used it.
Another good Mig Monday in the books!
I agree. I've never used 6013 rods with my everlast welder. I need to give them a try.
l love listening to real pros like you Bob but what are the advantages of stick welding over mig welding?
How about a video of downhill pipe welding cap pass? Been doing that in school and I've been having trouble at the bottom of the pipe where I tie into the other side of that cap. Running 5/32" 7010 at about 110 amps (give or take five amps). Also a demonstration with 3/16" 7010 or 8010 would be cool.
I worked with and old welder and he never threw his used rods away he used them for fill and I watch him weld two peices of 3/4 plate with live stick and dead stick and in one pass he made that weld look like you had used a hugh stick to weld that peice togther never forget that old welder and what he taught me
If you ever hear the term "Texas Tig Welding", that's the same thing! I've never tried it myself.
Brilliant video helped me alot. Im always getting arc blow at thee end. I thought it might of been my angle or the flux cracking
this video rocks! never even thought of 6013! great trick too, my thanks to mr. Putnam too.
great demo man, 6013 is a nice rod but it requires a loooot practice to anticipate for when things are going to go south, i didn`t knew the trick with the rod you showed i`ll try it as soon as i can. one never stops learning this trade. thanks man. pete
great job sir I like that you always take your time to explain most of the details
Great show as always!
Great video Bob! Any chance we could see you demo any SMAW fabrication techniques on some thinner material (like 14 or 16 ga)? Thanks again!
Your a fantastic educator love your videos
Nice to hear someone say something about 6013 other than "worthless", "good for nothing", etc...
I'm actually quite a fan of the inexpensive, small 1/16 6013s they sell at HF. I had to do some outdoor, in position field welding on ornamental ironwork where I needed an articulate, low penetrating stick rod for a small inverter welder. Those things were totally the ticket.
KING TROLL
Here in UK, a lot of welding is done with 6013, process piping and tanks for oil industry, small vessels, also used a lot in shipyards too for years.
Yes very high pressure stuff usually done with 7018 although now going over more and more to GS fluxcore or even spray transfer MIG, unless welded outside in situ obviously
Welding Is Fun 7018 are cheaper (the ones from Lincoln, ref 7018-1)
Douglas Alan 6010 is what I learned to stick weld with. Haven't done it in a while.
Well i mean, call it as you see it. It's not really used much in American industry work... Why? Because as said, It's fairly useless. I've never experienced what he said. They stick pretty easy. they're not to smooth and thick slag, which is a good plus. Other then that I'll use the rod more when i move to the UK and do pipe work there.
Great tutorial Bob. I found out the hard way how 6013 electrodes tend to blow thru.. Novice with a cheap Chinese TIG/MMA. Your channel and videos have learned me a lot in a very short space of time.. Kudos. And thank you Sir...
Hallo Bob, congratulations for your good videos. They do help us a lot. I would like to ask you to explain me how the Arc ignition Time and the Arc Force help us to avoid sticking of the electrodes? For example, I would like to weld tow pieces of metal (3 and 3 mm each) with the E6013 electrode. How many Amps should I use and at what numbers should I put the Arc ignition time and Arc Force to avoid sticking. Thanks again. Spiros.
Guys use 6013 on inverter wleders. 6010 runs a bit rough on them. I guess I should say a/c rods are run on inverter welders. If you are just learning how to run a bead on different welders, it good to try and understand how the wave form affects your arc.
I noticed with dual shield flux core where I work you get major arc blow towards the end of a weld if it’s thinner stuff because the metal gets way too hot. If you start from the end and go to the middle it doesn’t do it
The last time I've used 6013 in my everlast powerarc was probably a decade ago. This rod does have its uses.
i work in a ship yard working on line boats and were allways welding rust with 6011 or 7018 rods with DC
Thanks, Bob. Learned a lot.
Thanks for posting/sharing I learned something just now!
Can you please do a video of how to do vertical up, using the E6013 stick electrodes as I'm currently struggling how to do it as a beginner in school?
I got a little bit of arc blow once when welding with my everlast welder. It was because I had the arc too close to a strong magnet I had holding the pieces together.
Yeah, use the magnet to hold for tacks then get it out. Saves the magnet too.
I would love you to get the opportunity to try some of the high quality 6013 we get here in the U.K. Some real nice stuff is available. Excellent out of position
Vodex or Fincord M, theyre the 2 that have been used on jobs ive been on over the last 12years👍👍
Crazy question but could a strong magnet have an affect on the arc? I often use 45 degree magnets to help keep thin metal tubing square and still. Im usually in 50-60 amp range on DCEP and Ive often had arc blow close to the magnet.
Yes. I've experimented with making arcs using a car ignition coil, and when a magnet is placed by the continuous spark, the spark spreads out and becomes twice as large, and less focused. I think the high current going through the material creates magnetized metal, because DC polarity magnetizes metal. The solution would be to ground your work table to the welding ground, so current is flowing evenly through the metal being welded. If you only have power flowing from one side of the metal to the other, then you will get a solidly magnetized piece of metal. Another option is to clamp two ground clamps, one on each end of the material, which may cancel out the unidirectional current and corresponding magnetization.
Bob Please show us the difference between Drage Rod and pushing the rod Forward
Thanks for the tips Bob, lookin forward to your return
Great job Bob !
Haven’t ran rod since welding school and we’ve changed to it from dual shield on tanks at work. The struggle is real. Appreciate any tips or tricks Bobby. (7024&7018)🤙🏼
So you're going TO 7024/18 right? Lohy on uphill?
anotherrandomtexan25 uphill on repairs. Any leaks and we just grind it out and burn it in any position. I ain’t rollin a 2000 gallon tank for a couple inches😏🤙🏼she said the same thing🤔
And yes 7018&24
@@grantrichardson2185 1/8 or 5/32? Been awhile since I've done a lot of uphill 7018 but usually if I keep a real tight arc with a little circle motion makes it come out real nice if its a purely flat up, and by that I mean if there's nothing butted up against another plate or something in which case I'd do a little xmas tree motion, which is pretty similar to what'd I do with vertical dual shield to make it look nice... why the hell would they get away from dual shield for that kinda stuff? Its all we used except when rolling tank rings and making decks and floors
anotherrandomtexan25 3/32,1/8&5/32 with 7018. 1/8&5/32 with 7024. Were a little ahead of schedule and I think they’re cutting cost of gas out. Who fuckin knows honestly. But it’s humbling. I’ll have to give the ol curly Q uphill a whirl like u mentioned. I usually weave it, but shit doesn’t tie in well with everything that’s already ran flat. But that stays between us🤫🤣 the heads are offset 1/2” so we’re dealing with fillet joints besides seams and flanges.
I use 6013's at work on carbon steel bladed rotors from 150mm-750mm some have up to 12 vanes, I've given up on dcep as arc blow does my fckn head in no matter how I ground.. I use dcen and add 20 amps works a treat.. GE has a great video on arc blow from the 50's on youtube
I would like for you to explain and demonstrate interpass temperature
Good video; great tip at the end. Thanks
The other most over looked rod is E7024. It's probably the best fitting rod out there. Instead of dragging a mig gun around...
started with 1/8 6013 hobart rods bout 62 yrs ago ,to me the hobart rod is better welding than the other brands,i built ornamental iron and most everything was 16 gage and cast to tubing
Another good video Bob.
Maybe you can do more stick welding videos!
Best regards from Austria!
Thank you Philip. Good to hear from you.
I'd like to see more stick welding videos too. I normally mig weld but now I'm trying to learn how to stick weld on my Everlast welder. I'm still trying to get used to the electrode getting shorter as I weld!
Thanks for the information at the very beginning. I'm a beginner welder, full time manual Machinist though lol so I'm trying to teach myself on how to arc weld. I have a Deko Super Power DKUS-MMA160A 110v/220v, I'm assuming it's a straight DC welder and it doesn't like 6010 1/16" rod but when it comes to the 6013 3/32" rod and 7018 3/32" rod running at 115 amps runs smoothly. If you have any beginner tips for me fill me in please! Thanks Bob!
Here's a good challenge for you.
I'd love to see 7028 rods used. i have an open metal box of them. only did some practice stringers and welds with them. but they have been kept in a dry and heated garage at a university campus for several decades I'm told. So I'm curious as to what they are like to weld with
Hello Bob.
Thanks for all the welding videos, I enjoy watching them and occasionally I pick up some tips.
I have one request for you, please use better exhaust when welding. Your helmet is all covered with smoke and make a bad example for future welders.
BR Povl
Great video with lots of helpful tips. I especially like the use of spent rods on the weld starts. Will have to try that TODAY!
You mentioned 6013 for training, ease of learning, etc. I noticed from other videos that most avoid 6013 in favor of 6010/11 for root then 7018 for rest. I was wondering just where 6013 should and should not be used? Off hand I would think not to use 6013 for any structural or critical welds due to the lesser penetration aspects. But I am not a pro, just an old man learning.
Tom Herd it is used in pipe welding and structural welding in europe Britain ect... here in serbia if you cant do open root pipe weld you cant get a weld cert. It is a norm.
Thanks for the link, lots of interesting information there! :-)
Tom Herd and it is fun electrode for vertical up. if you set machine a little bit on colder side than slag won't peel of of the plate after each electrode and you can stack slag continuously for 10 inches or more, and get 10 inches of slag peel that is standing at 40 degrees lift on that plate. Weld will be crapy but that slag lift will be top notch lol. Great for braging on social media and nothing else xD.
Thanks!
ColtDeltaElite10mm you know nothing .
It is possible for a video about the similar configuration shown here but with a 3/32 rod and comparing Vulcan, Hobart and Lincoln electrodes?
Aunque no se inglés me gusta mucho aprender de usted será que se puede traducir sus clases gracias que dios los bendiga
Tnx i would love to learn more diy here.
Good tips, I haven't done any stick for a while now (I'm mainly a Tig guy now), great to watch though... well done 👌🏼
Great video,as usual.
Thank you!
Did I hear you mention Nol Putnam?
That is , Nol Putnam the blacksmith,the artist?
Very informative as always. Thank you
In the Philippines almost everybody uses 6013, they spot weld everything together. Almost none of the small shops use anything else. They don't use rod ovens and this is a hot and humid climate. They also don't normally have clean metal to weld on, most metal over here is what ever scrap is laying around. Wouldn't 6011 be better for most things? Most are also using the cheap light weight inverters for everything.