Nice build, thanks for the video. Saved this video for a future build. Just built a 4"" sub 250gram with a baby crocodile frame I had laying around. Used walksnail 1s reciever and Argus Aio 40 amp, 1505 motors, crossfire,gps. The battery tatt is 850mha. Comes in at 243grams. Just a not to anyone using the Argus Aio. The 5-volt pads don't have enough amperage to run everything, so wire a step-down transformer directly to the battery + and -
Sweet build! I wish Quadmula would make a frame for 3.5 inch props. That seems to be the sub 250 sweet spot … for me anyway. I have the AOS 3.5 O3 and it comes in below 250 with a 4s 750.
Yeah, my Emax Babyhawk 2 HD comes in way under 250g and it's a 3.5" with 1404 motors. I think people need to try a 450mah 4S on these quads. You'll be really surprised by the awesome performance, because it's soooo light, and I still get quite a long flight time! :)
@@KOrnhOliO1 I think it's 3500KV on Emax which is a totally different league. What motors do you have on the AOS 3.5 O3? I'm thinking of the new T-Motor P1604 2800KV for this frame. The frame has a good reputation but I genuinely don't like how it looks, it's too chubby to my liking. 🙂
@@azixaka I don't have that frame and don't know anything about it. If it's chunky it's probably not of interest to me, as I am always striving for lightweight.
You can also go with XT30 instead of XT60. And you will more than likely be over 250 if you are that close as batteries does vary in weight. Mine are from 70-80g Tattu 650 4s Its a real struggle on a Apex 3. I've had to ditch my Buzzer and the plastic parts as im 10g over
I use XT30 connectors. You are correct, there is some variability in the battery weight but I find they are fairly close (at least for the GNB packs that I run). I've since started running a naked o3 air unit on this quad, well under 250g now (~230).
I too like 16:9. I like seeing a lot side to side anyways. Can't tell you are missing much off the top and bottom. Great build. I am going to build a sub250 using a naked vista an a little bit lighter frame so I can put bigger motors 😆
Its a really nice frame, just the stack Mounting feels a little bit hard for "softmounted" but i cant test mine, because im still waiting for my T-Motor P1604 Motors and i taped my o3 air unit and ziptied, insteed mounting it with the m1.6 srews bacon ninja has a really good Argument why, but anyway its nice to see they include long enough m1,6 screws. And i soldered my cap directly to the xt30😁
The flight controller has the gummies, which makes it soft mounted. Does the tape/zip tie get in the way of the USB and SD card slot though? I've been running screwed in vistas for years and no problems.
🇨🇦 Nice review! Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I’m in the same boat, looking for a sub250 gram. My Flywoo 4 inch HD is close. Do you have a Canadian seller that you could suggest to purchase this frame from? 🇨🇦 I just subbed your Chanel.
Welcome to the channel. Unfortunately no one here in Canada but order it directly from Quadmula, they shipped really fast with DHL and it came here to Canada within 3 days and no extra taxes at the door.
This is the stack that I had on hand but yes you could use a AIO board to try and reduce the weight further. Note that you will need a 20x20 to 25x25 3d printed adapter to make that work. This quad only has a 20x20 mounting for the stack. I actually got a couple of mini immortal t's last week to try out with this frame, the immortal t is too long for these 3" frames, looks weird!
Hey. If the concern is the final video for posting, etc. easiest is to use the onboard recording, it has a different field of view and you do not see the top deck in view. If your concern is the goggle view when flying, you can lower the uptilt of the camera or get a custom designed camera mount that moves the camera further forward but you'll be jeopardizing the camera's protection in a crash.
This is the stack that I had on hand but yes you could use a AIO board to try and reduce the weight further. Note that you will need a 20x20 to 25x25 3d printed adapter to make that work. This quad only has a 20x20 mounting for the stack.
@@hansrenkes8385 Not really, I haven't played too much with AIO stacks. The one I looked at and was very close to trying out was the iFlight Beast but I think they're discontinued now.
Hi there. Around 15:00 you mention "that's the power of full size gimbals". What exactly do you mean? Also, there are periods when the frame is in view, and then switches to not being in view. I'm guessing you're switching from DVR recording to the view of what you're seeing, but what is happening? Are you switching to an edited DVR view where you've cropped the shot in to get rid of the frame in shot?
Hey. It was reference to the gimbals on the transmitter. In this video I am flying with the TBS Tango 2 whereas before I was trying out the DJI FPV Controller 2. The FPV Controller 2 has non-full size gimbals and it's harder to fly for us who are accustomed to standard full size gimbals. The change you are seeing is me switching from the DVR in the goggles to the DVR in the air unit itself. The air unit DVR is higher quality but also has a different field of view. When you see all the on screen display metric disappear (e.g. signal, battery voltage, etc.), that means I am showing you the air unit DVR.
Nice video! Too bad you still have the frame in view even in 16:9 mode. I thought you bought the part that made this frame work without any frame in view. Great flying too. What area do you live in with all that snow?
Unfortunately all my frames have a bit of the top deck in view with the O3, otherwise the camera needs to be really far forward and that would expose it to damage. Most designs specific to the O3 have a front cage that's at a 45 degree angle to solve for this. The camera has a really wide FOV that contributes to this.
Welcome to the channel! I've got the Goggles V2 and Goggles 2. You can build this frame with the Vista as well. You'd just need to use the carbon camera mount instead of the TPU ones I used in the video.
@@JB-cq2wo Did you look into ordering directly from DJI? Last I checked they have stock and they charge the taxes upfront so no nasty surprises at time of delivery. Plus they offer a small return window as well.
@@Mangorille What.... wow thanks bro. I never thought of that. One time I sent my V1"s to California because my screens were all messed up. $60 bucks and a week later I was up and ripping. I'm on it now broski. The best customer service I ever experienced.
I gave the DJI RC2 a shot and didn’t like it. The RC1 was great and I used it for years. I’ve since gone with ELRS on my Tango 2 for a bit of weight savings.
Thanks, yes, you will get the tips of the props in view even in the onboard recording (onboard has a smaller FOV). If you don't want any props in view, you'll need to go with a "dead cat" frame design.
are you aware of c-rating for batteries? i mention because if you are over-drawing from your batteries then you will see problems like the voltage dropping very quickly and killing batteries very quickly. batteries have a c-rating which basically means how many amps you can pull from them without damaging, example a 650mah 4s battery with a 100c rating can only give out a max of 65 amps, it is possible that your motors are over drawing from your battery resulting in the cells dying. maybe im preaching to the choir here haha but learning this helped me on a recent build where i had to put a motor output limit on my motors to keep them within the tolerances of my battery :)
Yes sir. The batteries used in that flight at rated at 95C and the most I have ever seen this quad pull is ~52 amps so within the C rating. I suspect the C rating is under very ideal conditions and doesn't account for the colder weather I sometimes fly in.
@@Mangorille ahhh very good sir. yeah I just started learning about c-rating and tbh I don't even have the amp draw on my osd set up lol... Rookie. I'm gonna set that up, I think motors rarely draw 100% of what their capable of
Great video. This is exactly what I’ve been looking for. I’m still waiting to purchase the O3 because my Goggles 2 (and my Avata set) have been on back order from Drone Shop Canada since early October 2022. I was thinking of using the following components to build one with a Vista and the OG DJI Camera. My question is, since the FC Stack that I’m using is the same as yours, and the other components are not a lot different, will your tune work with my initial build? Thanks. Frame: Quadmula Sire F3 Split Frame for O3 FC: IFlight SucceX-D Mini F7 TwinG Stack (Mini F7+40A ESC) Motors: AxisFlying Brushless AF155 1505 3450KV Motor for 3/3.5inch Freestyle (4S Batteries) with Receiver: Crossfire RX Nano Video Transmitter: DJI Vista & DJI OG Camera (will eventually be using O3) Propellers: HQProp T3X1.5
I think frame and fc are the only part shared between your build and his to be honest. Tuning it on BF 4.3 is extremely easy, just follow Chris Rosser's BF4.3 tuning guide, and move the slider for as long as you can. 🙂
@@azixaka What about if I use 1404 3000KV NewBeeDrone Flow Motors? Sorry for this, I’m just not comfortable with tuning a quad. I don’t have the time and space, nor the flying skills/experience yet to know what I should be looking for!
@@samavella8831 You'll be amazed how good quads fly with the stock tune from 4.3 or higher. Plus, with 4.3 you get presets. You can go in and find a tune someone did with similar parts and same size and us it! :)
@Mangorille what do you think about to built this quad with 6S instead of 4S? Is there any reason to go for 6S and stay below 250gr? What would you consider the advantages and disadvantages?
How important is it to be under 250 grams for you? For me it is super important with the Canadian regulations.I don't think you'd be able to do a 6s build under 250 grams based on these rough battery weights: 4s 650: 77g 6s 450: 85g 6s 550: 102g
Nice one! I built a similar drone, 242g with 850mah battery. Posted it on reddit "Sub250: Quadmula F3 Split + DJI O3". I also shared some blackbox noise analysis in there.
@@Mangorille Love them. Smooth, fast. I feel like 4600KV might be a bit too much for 4S, obviously you can always throttle limit, but just the impression. I couldn't find a battery that would withstand full throttle on these motors and not drop voltage to a critical level.
@@Mangorille My thinking is, this quad is small and every gram counts. Also, DJI patched their RC link to O3 and you won't be losing that in case of losing a video signal. Tbh I've never been a situation when I lost DJI O3 video signal, you have to fly really really far to cause that, an on this category of drones with batteries so small, it's simply impossible.
So i'm a little confused about your center of gravity technique. Not knocking the fact that you do it but maybe consider that your quad doesn't fly flat 90% of the time so your center of gravity would actually be back further. I personally would try to balance using the camera angle as a guide.
The way I think about it is that I want the quad to be neutral which means that it is never front or rear heavy and that should mean that the pivot point is always in the middle of all four motors, allowing the motors to work equally. I used to do it like you but lots of times you are not in that go-forward at camera angle position so you're favouring that position at the expense of all others.
Yes, I didn't have a good experience with the DJI FPV Controller 2. I used the FPV Controller 1 for years happily but the Controller 2 has some major short comings for me. I made a video about this at the link below. I actually use my Tango 2 Pro with ELRS right now. ua-cam.com/video/QRpH3c9G-Y4/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/FoPtx2x_a0k/v-deo.html
@@ChrisParayno I went with the 4600kv because that is what I've been using for years on the last three of my 3" quads. You can use a 3800kv motor if your flight style is more smooth freestyle.
The one shown in the build is the iFlight Succex-D F7 Mini but looks like not made anymore. I would use the SpeedyBee F7 Mini if I was to do this build today. bit.ly/3kIHP50
@@azixaka I own an Emax Babyhawk 2 HD with the Nebula Pro camera. I also bought one of RDQ's gift card deals involving the Happymodel Crux35 HD for $269 with a $150 gift card! What a rocket that quad is! 108g with the Vista with 1404 motors and an ultralight 450mah 4S lipo. It's a 3.5" Toothpick with huge power to weight ratio! A superb design in it's simplicity.
Hey There! Thanks for reaching out! Are you thinking of just a frame or a RTF? Frame builds take a lot of time and am not looking at doing another one at this time.
The dump file is linked in the video description. You can't use it exactly especially if you are changing some parts to something else but should get you in the ballpark at least.
Check out the video description, I have my Betaflight CLI dump there. Bear in mind that PIDs are very build dependant so mine most likely won’t perfect for you.
Nice build, thanks for the video. Saved this video for a future build. Just built a 4"" sub 250gram with a baby crocodile frame I had laying around. Used walksnail 1s reciever and Argus Aio 40 amp, 1505 motors, crossfire,gps. The battery tatt is 850mha. Comes in at 243grams. Just a not to anyone using the Argus Aio. The 5-volt pads don't have enough amperage to run everything, so wire a step-down transformer directly to the battery + and -
Thanks! That's a nice weight for a 4", wonder if you can still be under 249 if you went with a naked O3 like what I did in one of my later videos.
Love this. Please do a range test. Or just a far flight showcasing the O3 system.
That spikey edges on that arms is a job well don for motor protection wow!
Ya, very smart and low weight solution. There are other frames using this approach as well.
Rad little drone! ❤ nice review!
Sweet build!
I wish Quadmula would make a frame for 3.5 inch props. That seems to be the sub 250 sweet spot … for me anyway. I have the AOS 3.5 O3 and it comes in below 250 with a 4s 750.
What motors did you put on it?
Yeah, my Emax Babyhawk 2 HD comes in way under 250g and it's a 3.5" with 1404 motors. I think people need to try a 450mah 4S on these quads. You'll be really surprised by the awesome performance, because it's soooo light, and I still get quite a long flight time! :)
@@KOrnhOliO1 I think it's 3500KV on Emax which is a totally different league. What motors do you have on the AOS 3.5 O3? I'm thinking of the new T-Motor P1604 2800KV for this frame. The frame has a good reputation but I genuinely don't like how it looks, it's too chubby to my liking. 🙂
@@azixaka I don't have that frame and don't know anything about it. If it's chunky it's probably not of interest to me, as I am always striving for lightweight.
@@KOrnhOliO1 Sorry, it was intended for @johnmaff
You can also go with XT30 instead of XT60. And you will more than likely be over 250 if you are that close as batteries does vary in weight. Mine are from 70-80g Tattu 650 4s Its a real struggle on a Apex 3. I've had to ditch my Buzzer and the plastic parts as im 10g over
I use XT30 connectors. You are correct, there is some variability in the battery weight but I find they are fairly close (at least for the GNB packs that I run). I've since started running a naked o3 air unit on this quad, well under 250g now (~230).
Loving your channel! Great content.
Oh my good!!! This is very super smooth and powerful!!!!! ❤❤
I think it still has room for improvement, maybe over the summer I'll keep tweaking the PIDs when I'm not freezing.
I too like 16:9. I like seeing a lot side to side anyways. Can't tell you are missing much off the top and bottom. Great build. I am going to build a sub250 using a naked vista an a little bit lighter frame so I can put bigger motors 😆
Same, I find the 16:9 more immersive but I'm no pro pilot. What size motors you thinking? I find the 1404 on 4s more than enough power.
very nice
Its a really nice frame, just the stack Mounting feels a little bit hard for "softmounted" but i cant test mine, because im still waiting for my T-Motor P1604 Motors and i taped my o3 air unit and ziptied, insteed mounting it with the m1.6 srews bacon ninja has a really good Argument why, but anyway its nice to see they include long enough m1,6 screws. And i soldered my cap directly to the xt30😁
The flight controller has the gummies, which makes it soft mounted. Does the tape/zip tie get in the way of the USB and SD card slot though? I've been running screwed in vistas for years and no problems.
🇨🇦 Nice review! Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I’m in the same boat, looking for a sub250 gram. My Flywoo 4 inch HD is close. Do you have a Canadian seller that you could suggest to purchase this frame from? 🇨🇦 I just subbed your Chanel.
Welcome to the channel. Unfortunately no one here in Canada but order it directly from Quadmula, they shipped really fast with DHL and it came here to Canada within 3 days and no extra taxes at the door.
You got a sub extra ;)
I used the standard x-fire areal in a areal tube cutting a slot out the side making a light weight immortal -T...
I've since gone with ELRS on this build.
Personally I would have used a AIO board and the FPV cycle mini immortal t.
This is the stack that I had on hand but yes you could use a AIO board to try and reduce the weight further. Note that you will need a 20x20 to 25x25 3d printed adapter to make that work. This quad only has a 20x20 mounting for the stack. I actually got a couple of mini immortal t's last week to try out with this frame, the immortal t is too long for these 3" frames, looks weird!
Hi
Stadoffs look really bad.
in dvr recording
What should we do to prevent this?
Hey. If the concern is the final video for posting, etc. easiest is to use the onboard recording, it has a different field of view and you do not see the top deck in view. If your concern is the goggle view when flying, you can lower the uptilt of the camera or get a custom designed camera mount that moves the camera further forward but you'll be jeopardizing the camera's protection in a crash.
Great build. Will also buid a o3 sub250g. But why all install a Dtack instead of a AIO? i think with a aio we can also save some gramms.
This is the stack that I had on hand but yes you could use a AIO board to try and reduce the weight further. Note that you will need a 20x20 to 25x25 3d printed adapter to make that work. This quad only has a 20x20 mounting for the stack.
@@Mangorille do you have maybe a thingiverse link to an 3D printed adapter that we could use?
Any suggestions for a AIO stack?
@@hansrenkes8385 Not really, I haven't played too much with AIO stacks. The one I looked at and was very close to trying out was the iFlight Beast but I think they're discontinued now.
Nice build and excellent video. New sub here. I will order from your links. Thanks!
Thank you, much appreciated and welcome to the channel!
Hi there. Around 15:00 you mention "that's the power of full size gimbals". What exactly do you mean? Also, there are periods when the frame is in view, and then switches to not being in view. I'm guessing you're switching from DVR recording to the view of what you're seeing, but what is happening? Are you switching to an edited DVR view where you've cropped the shot in to get rid of the frame in shot?
Hey. It was reference to the gimbals on the transmitter. In this video I am flying with the TBS Tango 2 whereas before I was trying out the DJI FPV Controller 2. The FPV Controller 2 has non-full size gimbals and it's harder to fly for us who are accustomed to standard full size gimbals. The change you are seeing is me switching from the DVR in the goggles to the DVR in the air unit itself. The air unit DVR is higher quality but also has a different field of view. When you see all the on screen display metric disappear (e.g. signal, battery voltage, etc.), that means I am showing you the air unit DVR.
@@Mangorille Awesome. Thank you for taking time to explain all that!
@@noobsplain No problem. Happy flying!
Nice video! Too bad you still have the frame in view even in 16:9 mode. I thought you bought the part that made this frame work without any frame in view. Great flying too. What area do you live in with all that snow?
Unfortunately all my frames have a bit of the top deck in view with the O3, otherwise the camera needs to be really far forward and that would expose it to damage. Most designs specific to the O3 have a front cage that's at a 45 degree angle to solve for this. The camera has a really wide FOV that contributes to this.
new sub here. Very nice work. I'm gonna build this when I can get the new dji goggles. I only have V1's What goggles you using sir ?
Welcome to the channel! I've got the Goggles V2 and Goggles 2. You can build this frame with the Vista as well. You'd just need to use the carbon camera mount instead of the TPU ones I used in the video.
@@Mangorille Sweet I'm in canada too. I'm gonna wait for rotogeeks or rotovillage to get the new goggles in stock
@@JB-cq2wo Did you look into ordering directly from DJI? Last I checked they have stock and they charge the taxes upfront so no nasty surprises at time of delivery. Plus they offer a small return window as well.
@@Mangorille What.... wow thanks bro. I never thought of that. One time I sent my V1"s to California because my screens were all messed up. $60 bucks and a week later I was up and ripping. I'm on it now broski. The best customer service I ever experienced.
@@JB-cq2wo No problem, they were very quick to ship and it arrived from China to Canada in about 2 - 3 days with DHL. I was quite happy. :)
Using DJI remote, no CF receiver, weight issue solved 😊
I gave the DJI RC2 a shot and didn’t like it. The RC1 was great and I used it for years. I’ve since gone with ELRS on my Tango 2 for a bit of weight savings.
good review. there is still props in view?
Thanks, yes, you will get the tips of the props in view even in the onboard recording (onboard has a smaller FOV). If you don't want any props in view, you'll need to go with a "dead cat" frame design.
I have a similar build. With Gemfan 3016 transparent black you just can't see the props at all!
@@azixaka really? I want to build a drone with that frame and DJI O3 but I don't want the props to be in frame
are you aware of c-rating for batteries? i mention because if you are over-drawing from your batteries then you will see problems like the voltage dropping very quickly and killing batteries very quickly. batteries have a c-rating which basically means how many amps you can pull from them without damaging, example a 650mah 4s battery with a 100c rating can only give out a max of 65 amps, it is possible that your motors are over drawing from your battery resulting in the cells dying. maybe im preaching to the choir here haha but learning this helped me on a recent build where i had to put a motor output limit on my motors to keep them within the tolerances of my battery :)
Yes sir. The batteries used in that flight at rated at 95C and the most I have ever seen this quad pull is ~52 amps so within the C rating. I suspect the C rating is under very ideal conditions and doesn't account for the colder weather I sometimes fly in.
@@Mangorille ahhh very good sir. yeah I just started learning about c-rating and tbh I don't even have the amp draw on my osd set up lol... Rookie. I'm gonna set that up, I think motors rarely draw 100% of what their capable of
@@oisinogorman35 My 52 amp peak works out to about 13 amps per motor on the Xing2 1404 4600kv with 3x3x3 props. That hopefully gives you an idea.
@@Mangorille Ah very useful info, probably gonna build this soon nice to know motors aren't sucking the soul from the battery lol
Great video. This is exactly what I’ve been looking for. I’m still waiting to purchase the O3 because my Goggles 2 (and my Avata set) have been on back order from Drone Shop Canada since early October 2022.
I was thinking of using the following components to build one with a Vista and the OG DJI Camera.
My question is, since the FC Stack that I’m using is the same as yours, and the other components are not a lot different, will your tune work with my initial build?
Thanks.
Frame:
Quadmula Sire F3 Split Frame for O3
FC:
IFlight SucceX-D Mini F7 TwinG Stack (Mini F7+40A ESC)
Motors:
AxisFlying Brushless AF155 1505 3450KV Motor for 3/3.5inch Freestyle (4S Batteries) with
Receiver:
Crossfire RX Nano
Video Transmitter:
DJI Vista & DJI OG Camera (will eventually be using O3)
Propellers:
HQProp T3X1.5
I think frame and fc are the only part shared between your build and his to be honest. Tuning it on BF 4.3 is extremely easy, just follow Chris Rosser's BF4.3 tuning guide, and move the slider for as long as you can. 🙂
@@azixaka Thanks for your thoughts and recommendations!
I guess I can always start with his tune and use Chris’s video to fine tune it.
@@samavella8831 I'm afraid your motors are too different to just copy his tune. I tuned mine too but tbh, it flies great on stock BF4.3 settings!
@@azixaka What about if I use 1404 3000KV NewBeeDrone Flow Motors?
Sorry for this, I’m just not comfortable with tuning a quad. I don’t have the time and space, nor the flying skills/experience yet to know what I should be looking for!
@@samavella8831 You'll be amazed how good quads fly with the stock tune from 4.3 or higher. Plus, with 4.3 you get presets. You can go in and find a tune someone did with similar parts and same size and us it! :)
@Mangorille, is it possible if you share the Immortal-T mount file that you have made and shown in the video for DIY printing e.g. On Thingiverse?
Hey. Check out the link in the video description to the Quadmula repository, they have the print available themselves.
@Mangorille what do you think about to built this quad with 6S instead of 4S? Is there any reason to go for 6S and stay below 250gr? What would you consider the advantages and disadvantages?
How important is it to be under 250 grams for you? For me it is super important with the Canadian regulations.I don't think you'd be able to do a 6s build under 250 grams based on these rough battery weights:
4s 650: 77g
6s 450: 85g
6s 550: 102g
Nice one! I built a similar drone, 242g with 850mah battery. Posted it on reddit "Sub250: Quadmula F3 Split + DJI O3". I also shared some blackbox noise analysis in there.
Yeah, and AIO FC/ESC and a combo Crossfire and CP antenna mount would save him even more weight.
Nice build! How you liking those Xing2 motors?
Crossfire is just too big for a quad like this, I've put ELRS in it now :)
@@Mangorille Love them. Smooth, fast. I feel like 4600KV might be a bit too much for 4S, obviously you can always throttle limit, but just the impression. I couldn't find a battery that would withstand full throttle on these motors and not drop voltage to a critical level.
@@Mangorille My thinking is, this quad is small and every gram counts. Also, DJI patched their RC link to O3 and you won't be losing that in case of losing a video signal. Tbh I've never been a situation when I lost DJI O3 video signal, you have to fly really really far to cause that, an on this category of drones with batteries so small, it's simply impossible.
Nice job! Would you share your PIDs ?
Thanks. PID is available in the video at 14:52 and also in the video description where I've got the Betaflight dump file.
@@Mangorille Great, I'll give it a go.
So i'm a little confused about your center of gravity technique. Not knocking the fact that you do it but maybe consider that your quad doesn't fly flat 90% of the time so your center of gravity would actually be back further.
I personally would try to balance using the camera angle as a guide.
The way I think about it is that I want the quad to be neutral which means that it is never front or rear heavy and that should mean that the pivot point is always in the middle of all four motors, allowing the motors to work equally. I used to do it like you but lots of times you are not in that go-forward at camera angle position so you're favouring that position at the expense of all others.
Be a great analog flyer😎
I fly analog whoops ;)
Hey man! Just curious, do. you build drones for customers?
Hey. Not really but happy to help you troubleshoot. You can always go the bind-n-fly route.
If they change the 250 rule to 300 we can add a gps to that too
300grams would be awesome!
@@Mangorille bro what controller and goggles are you used for that drone
@@creeper_whispers Hey. All the parts should be in the video description.
@@Mangorille wait. I just checked that frame link and it showing that request cancelled idk why.
@@creeper_whispers Go to quadmula.com/ and search for Siren F3 Split
Random question, is there any particular reason you would fly with crossfire over the dji controller unit itself?
Yes, I didn't have a good experience with the DJI FPV Controller 2. I used the FPV Controller 1 for years happily but the Controller 2 has some major short comings for me. I made a video about this at the link below. I actually use my Tango 2 Pro with ELRS right now.
ua-cam.com/video/QRpH3c9G-Y4/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/FoPtx2x_a0k/v-deo.html
@@Mangorille thanks for the input! One more question, why 4600kv over say the lower 3xxx kv? Do you think it needs the extra umph due to the weight?
@@ChrisParayno I went with the 4600kv because that is what I've been using for years on the last three of my 3" quads. You can use a 3800kv motor if your flight style is more smooth freestyle.
I wana build the same thing with it what kind of esc did you use?
The one shown in the build is the iFlight Succex-D F7 Mini but looks like not made anymore. I would use the SpeedyBee F7 Mini if I was to do this build today. bit.ly/3kIHP50
are u using any throttle limit cut?
No throttle limit being used.
Have you tried 3.5?
No, I only had 3" props. Really wanted to get a good comparison between this frame and my go-to (QAV-S mini)
@@Mangorille You should! 3.5" is a sweet spot for performance and staying under 250g. I have 2.
@@KOrnhOliO1 What frame did you use?
@@KOrnhOliO1 Thanks. I'd need to try on a different frame, this one only supports 3.1" max.
@@azixaka I own an Emax Babyhawk 2 HD with the Nebula Pro camera. I also bought one of RDQ's gift card deals involving the Happymodel Crux35 HD for $269 with a $150 gift card! What a rocket that quad is! 108g with the Vista with 1404 motors and an ultralight 450mah 4S lipo. It's a 3.5" Toothpick with huge power to weight ratio! A superb design in it's simplicity.
Want to try an RVS SmolYeet35?
Hey There! Thanks for reaching out! Are you thinking of just a frame or a RTF? Frame builds take a lot of time and am not looking at doing another one at this time.
@@Mangorille Frame kit
@@rotorvillage Thanks for the offer but not looking at a new frame build at this time.
Can I your beta flight setting ? Pid and so on
The dump file is linked in the video description. You can't use it exactly especially if you are changing some parts to something else but should get you in the ballpark at least.
@@Mangorille wow thanks should I cover it on my fc?
@@Unknown-sl1qr Sorry not following.
What city you from
North of the Toronto area. You?
Smaller battery, problem solved, and it will fly better.
How much of a smaller battery? 4s 650 is already fairly small for a build like this.
its cool, but calling it f3 is a bad idea
How come? The 3 is for 3”.
@Mangorille: can you please share your PID tunes or the repository that you have used?
Check out the video description, I have my Betaflight CLI dump there. Bear in mind that PIDs are very build dependant so mine most likely won’t perfect for you.