Having researched this for some time (I have a 330ci track car in build) I certainly concur with this chap about the tensioner. People speak of failures of the shaft when welding the nut but, as this fellow said, the chain slack worsens the vibrations / harmonics leading to the failure. When adding a tensioner, the issue appears to be eliminated. Also, don't forget that it is possible to fit a chain tensioner with the engine in the car. You can drop the sump enough (circa 5 mm) and the bolts to the top of the timing chain cover can be accessed with the rocker cover off.
Wrong. Ive welded multiple m54 oil pump nuts to only have the pump shear the sprocket off. Same thing with loctite and safety wire. From what I have seen and heard the API dampener or an upgraded oil pump is the way to go. Currently working through this issue.
Great on point information! Appreciate you sharing this, i did exactly what you did didn’t even cost $50 bucks. Ordered bolts from ebay for $8 and the tensioner as well for about $25, new chain was a must considering mine had a lot of play but luckily the oil pump nut looked fine. New O ring on the oil tube and i was golden!
... I just redid my M54. Like 2 years ago. New bearings. main bearings the old 3-piece oil control ring new chains almost everything redone. And I just found out about this chain tensioning slapped mod and now I feel like a total jackass for not doing it.
is the spring shoulder bolt also a through hole when drilling and tapping? Also, maybe some assembly lube or fresh motor oil on the tensioner just for first start up. Great modification, looks very skookum!!!
What’s the best way to clear out the shavings to insure motor safety while drilling with the motor still in the car? Is it reasonable for a shop to say they aren’t comfortable drilling with the engine in because of metal shaving concerns?
If you are doing this in the car, the chips fall straight down. Only when breaking through the back side would a chip fall into the engine. There are some tricks using grease or a shop vac to control those chips. Looking up from where the oil pan would be you can see where the holes come through. Using a shop vac with a small hose on it could ensure any chips are collected. Very valid point!
@@spankranchgarage what are the chances of an S52 (or m5x) developing oil leaks if the head is not removed when accessing the lower timing cover (with engine in the car)? Watched a video where a guy with an e46 says it’s a bit hit or miss unless you thoroughly clean the headgasket mating area and get some hondabond/sealant at the head/block/cover corners. My car only has 139k and runs fine, so I’d rather spend the extra money elsewhere
@@timpulko1743 Like the other video you watched I agree. Good cleaning and some good sealer and it will be okay. I only do this mod when I initially build the engine. I personally wouldn't take a good running engine apart just to install this tensioner.
Great video. I have an M50B25 non vanos motor. Do you know if these have oil pump chain tensioners? I've heard some M50's do, and some don't. Some places you read it's only the early non vanos motors, like 1991's. The info is all over the place. Also, i was going to be putting an M52 oil pump and M52 oil pan with a sump welded on and the VAC baffle on it. That shouldn't cause me issues? Im learning as I go, but trying not to make stupid expensive mistakes.
@@spankranchgarage Thanks, i forgot to add that I was going to turn the B25 into a stroker B30. Which crank dampers do you use, and what other measures do you take and rev them to? I was going to add the S54 tensioner, a strenghtened pump shaft and sprocket that takes 3 safetywired bolts. Possibly an ATI crank damper amd rev it to 7-7-2k. Not sure if all that is overdoing it.
@@Cblairjr haha I love everything about Spank Ranch Garage first of all. Second, this guy Tucker Martin thinks he’s the number one fan, which is clearly not true
Got another question as ive just torn down the motor. I'm building an M50B30 for boost. Im doing this oil pump chain mod. How much do i replace besides that? Trying not to go overboard. So my questions are - Besides the 3 chains, do i replace the sprockets on the crank and sprocket that runs the cams? - I'm putting in new guides, do i get the iron or plastic guide for the timing chain? (the longer one)
I just replace the chain unless the sprocket has some type of noticeable wear. I haven't heard of an iron chain guide. I've had great luck with he stock plastic ones. I don't replace them unless there cracked as even ones with 300K on them seem to have tons of life left.
Okay third comment on here, really sory lol. As i went to drill holes, for this mod i found out i have one of those early M50 blocks that have the holes for the S50/S54 tensioner already. The holes aren't lined up in the same way as you do it on here tho. The one that puts tension on it isn't off set like in your video tho. It's straight under it. Whats the reason for that?
I haven't ever personally come across one of those blocks before. For a while I didnt believe they actually existed. Did you buy a tensioner and bolts and see how it all works/fits? The way I do it works but its not the only way
@@spankranchgarage Second time now UA-cam eats my comment or it's bugged somehow. I bought Euro S50 dowel pins and they dropped right in. I posted a link to a picture showing the block. Not sure if that's what UA-cam doesn't like.
I use stainless filler. No real science behind this thought. It just feels like its softer and would be less likely to fatigue crack. Its been okay so far... but I have also blasted them with flux core and no problem either.
Thanks for the informative clip man, definitely saved a few bucks from buying a ready made kit.
Having researched this for some time (I have a 330ci track car in build) I certainly concur with this chap about the tensioner. People speak of failures of the shaft when welding the nut but, as this fellow said, the chain slack worsens the vibrations / harmonics leading to the failure. When adding a tensioner, the issue appears to be eliminated. Also, don't forget that it is possible to fit a chain tensioner with the engine in the car. You can drop the sump enough (circa 5 mm) and the bolts to the top of the timing chain cover can be accessed with the rocker cover off.
Wrong. Ive welded multiple m54 oil pump nuts to only have the pump shear the sprocket off. Same thing with loctite and safety wire. From what I have seen and heard the API dampener or an upgraded oil pump is the way to go. Currently working through this issue.
It also has to do with transmission and flywheel harmonics. I noticed people running single mass flywheels always run into problems with the oil pump
@@deanhosmer852 What do you mean "wrong". Did you actually read what I said!?
@@deanhosmer852 Agreed as regards single mass flywheels.
Great on point information! Appreciate you sharing this, i did exactly what you did didn’t even cost $50 bucks. Ordered bolts from ebay for $8 and the tensioner as well for about $25, new chain was a must considering mine had a lot of play but luckily the oil pump nut looked fine. New O ring on the oil tube and i was golden!
Awesome glad it helped you!!
Very informative for those sideways drivers
Cant wait for this to get back out on the track 🤘
I hope this channel blows up man. always good stuff
Great video! Thanks for the part numbers, as well.
This is great information, thanks for sharing!
GREAT, video 🙌🏾 love your channel, PLEASE keep posting BMW content!
BMW should have included this from the factory.
... I just redid my M54. Like 2 years ago. New bearings. main bearings the old 3-piece oil control ring new chains almost everything redone.
And I just found out about this chain tensioning slapped mod and now I feel like a total jackass for not doing it.
It’s not that big of a deal engines last for plenty of years without these upgrades. If you did a new chain you are going to be okay
is the spring shoulder bolt also a through hole when drilling and tapping? Also, maybe some assembly lube or fresh motor oil on the tensioner just for first start up. Great modification, looks very skookum!!!
What’s the best way to clear out the shavings to insure motor safety while drilling with the motor still in the car?
Is it reasonable for a shop to say they aren’t comfortable drilling with the engine in because of metal shaving concerns?
If you are doing this in the car, the chips fall straight down. Only when breaking through the back side would a chip fall into the engine. There are some tricks using grease or a shop vac to control those chips. Looking up from where the oil pan would be you can see where the holes come through. Using a shop vac with a small hose on it could ensure any chips are collected. Very valid point!
@@spankranchgarage what are the chances of an S52 (or m5x) developing oil leaks if the head is not removed when accessing the lower timing cover (with engine in the car)? Watched a video where a guy with an e46 says it’s a bit hit or miss unless you thoroughly clean the headgasket mating area and get some hondabond/sealant at the head/block/cover corners. My car only has 139k and runs fine, so I’d rather spend the extra money elsewhere
@@timpulko1743 Like the other video you watched I agree. Good cleaning and some good sealer and it will be okay. I only do this mod when I initially build the engine. I personally wouldn't take a good running engine apart just to install this tensioner.
Great video. I have an M50B25 non vanos motor. Do you know if these have oil pump chain tensioners? I've heard some M50's do, and some don't. Some places you read it's only the early non vanos motors, like 1991's. The info is all over the place.
Also, i was going to be putting an M52 oil pump and M52 oil pan with a sump welded on and the VAC baffle on it. That shouldn't cause me issues? Im learning as I go, but trying not to make stupid expensive mistakes.
I’ve never come across an m50 with a factory tensioner. I don’t see any issues with your pump/pan setup
@@spankranchgarage Thanks, i forgot to add that I was going to turn the B25 into a stroker B30. Which crank dampers do you use, and what other measures do you take and rev them to? I was going to add the S54 tensioner, a strenghtened pump shaft and sprocket that takes 3 safetywired bolts. Possibly an ATI crank damper amd rev it to 7-7-2k. Not sure if all that is overdoing it.
When doing this on the M54 Motor, do the measurements change at all where your tapping, or is it the same ?
They should be the same but give it a sanity check before you drill
Is this necessary for a stock daily that has regular oil service?
I wouldn't say so. Extended high RPM use is where it really pays off. I drove many 2.5s and 2.8s hard daily and never lost a pump nut
Love it
1 second you beat me by!!!!
Videos 5 mins long. Posted 5 mins ago and you love it before you even watch it. And here I am watching the videos 😂😂
@@Cblairjr haha I love everything about Spank Ranch Garage first of all. Second, this guy Tucker Martin thinks he’s the number one fan, which is clearly not true
@@Gemini_Beautify I clearly am! All of my choices I make with the guidance of this channel
Got another question as ive just torn down the motor. I'm building an M50B30 for boost. Im doing this oil pump chain mod. How much do i replace besides that? Trying not to go overboard. So my questions are
- Besides the 3 chains, do i replace the sprockets on the crank and sprocket that runs the cams?
- I'm putting in new guides, do i get the iron or plastic guide for the timing chain? (the longer one)
I just replace the chain unless the sprocket has some type of noticeable wear. I haven't heard of an iron chain guide. I've had great luck with he stock plastic ones. I don't replace them unless there cracked as even ones with 300K on them seem to have tons of life left.
Can the chain and hub sproket be changed without removing the engine ?
Yes but you need to remove the timing cover. Resealing it under the head gasket requires some careful moves but 100% possible
Okay third comment on here, really sory lol. As i went to drill holes, for this mod i found out i have one of those early M50 blocks that have the holes for the S50/S54 tensioner already. The holes aren't lined up in the same way as you do it on here tho. The one that puts tension on it isn't off set like in your video tho. It's straight under it. Whats the reason for that?
I haven't ever personally come across one of those blocks before. For a while I didnt believe they actually existed. Did you buy a tensioner and bolts and see how it all works/fits? The way I do it works but its not the only way
@@spankranchgarage Second time now UA-cam eats my comment or it's bugged somehow. I bought Euro S50 dowel pins and they dropped right in. I posted a link to a picture showing the block. Not sure if that's what UA-cam doesn't like.
how can I contact you about tuning my boosted e36 on stock ecu
U can do this on m54b30 too right
Yes absolutely I’ve done it a few times
@@spankranchgarage thank you homie nice whips u motivation
what filler rod material did u use to weld the oil pomp nut :()
I use stainless filler. No real science behind this thought. It just feels like its softer and would be less likely to fatigue crack. Its been okay so far... but I have also blasted them with flux core and no problem either.
Do you think this is alright to do with the engine in the car? Oil pan and timing cover removed of course.
Yes you can. Any chips the come through the block fall straight down. It’s fairly safe
@@spankranchgarage Awesome man, plan to do this sometime this month. Thanks for responding
Is this the same for a US S52?
Yes
What's that tap size
M6x1.0 if I remember correct but the part number is in the description