Good to see a tip i suggested being used! Can vouch for this mod as I was at Brands Hatch on Tuesday with a youtuber who gave it a few decent laps. Car was spot on all day and drove 180 miles there and back, as well as being thrashed round the indy circuit :)
when I first bought my car, I thought this was an overblown issue experienced only by track cars. then my nut fell off 30 miles from home. drilled the stock nut by hand and safety wired it, also added some loctite. zero issues since.
Perhaps racing chain means it's shorter, so it wouldn't slap around. Usual stock M50/M52/M54 oil pump chain is quite long and slaps around, which I addressed by adding tensioner from some kind of VW.
Few days ago i started working on my friend e46 and i decided to do the oil pan gasket and i saw something in the pump so i stuck my finger in there and took out almost all the timing chain guide... litteraly saved the engine
Great videos as always Jamie... my only question is, how would a fully rebuilt engine like this actually get admitted into Lemons? It seems a little unfair to the rest of the competition..
This is a backup engine only. I don’t know the rules but IF they need to swap the engine at the track, they’re not going to win. Its just about finishing and fun at that point.
@@JamiesGarage1 ok, cool I hadn’t known about it being a backup engine. Good point about if they need to use the backup, they lost anyway. But hey, thanks for your reply!! I love your videos and I have my own E46 330, seriously loving your videos on this engine and the community loves them too. Keep up the awesome content!!!!
Just wondering why the upgrade didnt address the thread direction issue? Why not change it to "righty tighty" and then there wont be a need to have that wire going through the bolt
what are the chances of shaft breaking loose inside pump gear, looks like it's interference fit from factory and pushing shaft out and new one back makes me question if clamping force betwen two parts is enough.
@@JamiesGarage1 it’s very hard to know from Facebook that you have a channel, don’t mean that in bad way I just didn’t have enough from the Facebook posts you have. so I stumbled on youre UA-cam page looking you up
@@slasher9883 fasho. also use some loctite on the threads and the splines themselves. my friend has a 7k rpm rev limit and beats the piss out of his car daily, zero issues after the safety wire job.
Hey Jamie I was wondering if you had any insight on an issue I have with my 2011 bmw 335is. I recently bought the car and was unaware that the door handles have sensors in them to lock and unlock just by grabbing them. Mine don’t work and I can’t seem to figure out why. When I asked the forums it looks like if my comfort access module was toast my push to start wouldn’t work either but it does. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Love the videos keep up the great work!
My 2011 535i xDrive (100,000 mileage) is having drivetrain malfunctions. At heavier acceleration the drivetrain loses power (no check engine light appears). Have you experienced this issue before? She's in good condition.
The splines shearing off from the sprocket is very unlikely to ever happen it’s actually a really good design the splines are strong asf probably better than that almost rounded squared replacement you put on it 💯🤷 just weld or wire tie the nut
This is for anyone to answer since most of you know more than i do, i assume, i went to check out a bmw with an m54, the car was clean and everything checked out except there was this ticking sound in the engine bay and it changed speed when accelerating the car. Any ideas of what this could be? I’ve heard a number of things from exhaust manifold to water pump going out. I’m worried it could be coming from the engine and dont want to take the risk. Thank you to all who help. Have a great weekend!
Diagnosing an engine noise from a description if impossible. Any suggestions you get will only be guesses. I’s recommend to have it inspected by a BMW specialist before you buy it. Hope that helps
It probably is coming from the engine. Have it inspected and don't drive it any more than you have to. Ticking noises are often caused by oil related problems which will lead to serious engine damage.
Could be a really bad case of bad VANOS seals. Pretty easy to do, you should do it replacing the valve cover gasket (probably should replace the valve cover at this point too)
My regret. (one of many in life and cars) I built a M54 but didn't do much to the oil pump. Just new pump and chains. I massively regret not doing the S54 Tension guide rail modification. Or a new shaft like this video shows. I have not seen any M54 (but a ton of usa S52) oil pumps fail... But I do fear it now. I also don't track the car. But I do make it work.
having deja vu from ChrisFix's engine rebuild
Deja vu all over again
Thats becuase it is from that build video
Good to see a tip i suggested being used! Can vouch for this mod as I was at Brands Hatch on Tuesday with a youtuber who gave it a few decent laps.
Car was spot on all day and drove 180 miles there and back, as well as being thrashed round the indy circuit :)
I did my m54b30 vanos rebuild today it stopped my rattling!!! Thanks for the video help. Yours is what was best and to the point.
The fact you have a wire twist tool speaks to the level of detail in your work. Always a good video when I get your notification.
- Only after your comment did I notice the mechanism of that twist tool - thank you very much ,Sir.;)🙂
we thank you Jamie for all the BMW content, it is really is very entertaining and extremly helpful, keep on doing the awseome work man 🙏
Thank you! 💪
when I first bought my car, I thought this was an overblown issue experienced only by track cars. then my nut fell off 30 miles from home. drilled the stock nut by hand and safety wired it, also added some loctite. zero issues since.
Perhaps racing chain means it's shorter, so it wouldn't slap around. Usual stock M50/M52/M54 oil pump chain is quite long and slaps around, which I addressed by adding tensioner from some kind of VW.
Few days ago i started working on my friend e46 and i decided to do the oil pan gasket and i saw something in the pump so i stuck my finger in there and took out almost all the timing chain guide... litteraly saved the engine
that twisting plaier 😐 its like magic
oh thanks , i think i made a mistake , this video prove me its okay if the new chain is very-very tight with zero-slack
This engine belongs in museum now somewhere un Munich
its all about the tensioner.... its cheaper and safer
thank you, thats the stuff i wanna see
Great videos as always Jamie... my only question is, how would a fully rebuilt engine like this actually get admitted into Lemons? It seems a little unfair to the rest of the competition..
This is a backup engine only. I don’t know the rules but IF they need to swap the engine at the track, they’re not going to win. Its just about finishing and fun at that point.
@@JamiesGarage1 ok, cool I hadn’t known about it being a backup engine. Good point about if they need to use the backup, they lost anyway. But hey, thanks for your reply!! I love your videos and I have my own E46 330, seriously loving your videos on this engine and the community loves them too. Keep up the awesome content!!!!
Please Jamie Can u explain Why lithium grease will ruin the pump ?
Is this necessary for a stock daily?
Why not just use loctight instead of that wire, whats stopping it coming loose
Just wondering why the upgrade didnt address the thread direction issue? Why not change it to "righty tighty" and then there wont be a need to have that wire going through the bolt
The thread direction is designed so that when the engine spins the bolt tightens itself. If it was lefty loosy it would come off a lot quicker.
what are the chances of shaft breaking loose inside pump gear, looks like it's interference fit from factory and pushing shaft out and new one back makes me question if clamping force betwen two parts is enough.
Make sure to use left handed Loctite!
Does the early e46 M52tu have this issue too?
Nice video always like how clean you’re videos are but I was wondering why u don’t promote your UA-cam channel more?
What do you mean?
@@JamiesGarage1 it’s very hard to know from Facebook that you have a channel, don’t mean that in bad way I just didn’t have enough from the Facebook posts you have. so I stumbled on youre UA-cam page looking you up
Tool to twist wires? Come on Jamie. 😂😂😂. Jk. Love ur vids!
Hey Jamie, thanks for the video, about to do this on my own M54. Any tips on the wire I should use, material and gauge?
The kit comes with the wire 👍🏻
use safety wire. you can save some cash by drilling the factory nut and wiring it yourself.
@@busterscrugs thanks that was my plan, that kit is not readily available here in Australia.
@@slasher9883 fasho. also use some loctite on the threads and the splines themselves. my friend has a 7k rpm rev limit and beats the piss out of his car daily, zero issues after the safety wire job.
@@busterscrugs thanks very helpful 👍
Hey Jamie I was wondering if you had any insight on an issue I have with my 2011 bmw 335is. I recently bought the car and was unaware that the door handles have sensors in them to lock and unlock just by grabbing them. Mine don’t work and I can’t seem to figure out why. When I asked the forums it looks like if my comfort access module was toast my push to start wouldn’t work either but it does. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Love the videos keep up the great work!
My 2011 535i xDrive (100,000 mileage) is having drivetrain malfunctions. At heavier acceleration the drivetrain loses power (no check engine light appears). Have you experienced this issue before? She's in good condition.
Does this apply to m52 also?
notification squad, Have a nice weekend!🔥🔥🔥
You too! 👊
The splines shearing off from the sprocket is very unlikely to ever happen it’s actually a really good design the splines are strong asf probably better than that almost rounded squared replacement you put on it 💯🤷 just weld or wire tie the nut
Lol, I don't have an M54, I have an E46!
;)
Me too ;)
Oil pumps I never install those
Would this also work on a S54 engine?
S54 oil pump is much different
😎👍
This is for anyone to answer since most of you know more than i do, i assume, i went to check out a bmw with an m54, the car was clean and everything checked out except there was this ticking sound in the engine bay and it changed speed when accelerating the car. Any ideas of what this could be? I’ve heard a number of things from exhaust manifold to water pump going out. I’m worried it could be coming from the engine and dont want to take the risk. Thank you to all who help. Have a great weekend!
Diagnosing an engine noise from a description if impossible. Any suggestions you get will only be guesses. I’s recommend to have it inspected by a BMW specialist before you buy it. Hope that helps
It probably is coming from the engine. Have it inspected and don't drive it any more than you have to. Ticking noises are often caused by oil related problems which will lead to serious engine damage.
Could be a really bad case of bad VANOS seals. Pretty easy to do, you should do it replacing the valve cover gasket (probably should replace the valve cover at this point too)
My regret. (one of many in life and cars)
I built a M54 but didn't do much to the oil pump. Just new pump and chains.
I massively regret not doing the S54 Tension guide rail modification. Or a new shaft like this video shows.
I have not seen any M54 (but a ton of usa S52) oil pumps fail...
But I do fear it now.
I also don't track the car.
But I do make it work.
next time you have the oil pan off, drill the nut and add safety wire. also use some loctite. that's plenty for a street driven car.
@@busterscrugs i did do that.
@@busterscrugs ohh the oil pan is not coming off for another 6 years.
damn engineers, easiest fix would be to just use a jam nut...
Lol negative 22nm...thts a thing.??
I've found that the easiest way to fix a BMW is to buy a Hyundai.
.
No special tools needed. Proceeds to use a 10 thousand dollar machine 😑
Very expensive 👎
just drill the stock nut, add loctite and safety wire. does the trick for a fraction of the cost.