These are the batteries from Aventon pace 500 and 350 bikes. There is nothing wrong with the light. The green light just shows when its on. To check the power level you just push the button. You hold the button to turn it off. But I don't know why they have been rejected.
I think you are right. At switching on, the LEDs indicate that they are working, regardless on the battery state as long as it is not completely empty. The display on the handle bar will show the actual state during your cycling tour. When disconnected from the bike you can request the battery state by switching it on, the press the button for a short time so it does not switch off and the LEDs will roughly indicate the 1/4, 2/4, 3/4 or 4/4 state for a view seconds. So nothing wrong with them, just an obsolete or redundant batch of batteries sold for scrap.
I was thinking the same. I think that it is showing the charge level after you first turn it on, then goes to one light to indicate that it is on. Push the button again to see how much charge you have left & hold the button to turn off.
There's a seller on ebay in Europe, free shipping packages with 100x 18650 tested cells. They are the cheapest I have found for Samsung 29e and similar long cycle life batteries. 100x cost like 140 dollars.
@@leonordin3052 i would really like to find out who that seller is. Im currently screwing around with old packs with more electrolyte outside the cells then on the inside
Tell me about it i have packs of 21700 48V I had to cut very carefuly cut using a dremel tool or very small wheel, the aluminum case then remove the silicone or whatever grey material then extract the cells
try to remove the screws and then with high pressure compressed air with a suction cup on the connector side most of the faults are in the bms which is not tropicalized on the periphery of the circuit and the condensate does its job of corrosion
I have the same batterie on my bike. Once the batterie was broken and I opened it to repair it. The current limiting resistors on the led indicators are getting really hot and tend to fail. Maybe this can help you to get what happened to them. By the way a solder joint was broken - an easy fix. Greetz
@@JonnyDeRico what I mean was is it one of those long custom BMS that run the whole length of the battery vs the small one they put at the end of the pack? Also is the battery itself come out of the metal housing easy? Or its all glue in to the case? Thanks
@@josephau4623 Ah ok, it was a small bms at the end of the pack. It was glued but with "sikaflex" as we called it in germany. Was a bit of a struggle. It is doable.
@@JonnyDeRico those a call caulking in the US. I got the battery and can 2nd the BMS is a small one located at the end. Bty do you know what size is the male DC adapter needed for the charger? Thanks
There's nothing wrong with them they're just not on the bike so they're going into a rest mode that's what it looks like to me. I don't think there's anything wrong with the indicator I think that's just what they do when they're not on a bike that's like a rest mode showing their ready but maybe not in use. That would explain why they dinged up one does the same thing the one heavily used one does the exact same thing as the brand-new looking..
How much did you have to pay for that pallet of batteries (cost per battery) ? How many are totally bad? Can you do a repair/autopsy of a bad battery? Why are the state of health/battery monitors failing? Lots of questions but, I bet other people would like the answers too.
Be careful of eBay's new dispute policy. I purchased fuses for my fluke multimeter the seller sent me the wrong item. Seller would not respond to my messages. eBay's robo customer service said the item was delivered they know this through tracking so you did receive your item, case closed. You can no longer call customer service.
My indicator didn't work either, and I had the same exact battery. I wish my replacement had the handle to grab like my original did. Now u can't grip it to pull off
Jehu, these are Aventon Pace 500 and 350 batteries. The fuel gauge displayed is normal operation for those batteries. The single light tells you it is on. To see the level tap the fuel gauge button once. Hold to turn off. These are made with Chinese cells.
Won't they be the type of displays that you have to press to see how charged they are, so when they've been discharged again you tap the button and get maybe two or three bars? I've seen (admittedly hand held) other battery banks having similar behaviour
I hope you have fire protection for your family and pets. Just one bad cell in one of those unit could set the whole lot off. The fire would spread from cell to cell and then ignite other units nearby. If you haven't watched any UA-cam videos of this, I strongly suggest you do. Mixing units from different manufacturers and using non-matched chargers and cables is the fastest way to cause a thermal overload. Once the fire starts it cannot be extinguished with water. And BTW, water alone can cause them to catch fire, especially salt water.
Easily scared people without the necessary info may think so, but these are li-ion 18650's. Unless you are seriously abusing them they are extremely safe, unlike li-po sachets and cheap Chinese proprietary cells found in phones and vapes. The youtube videos are hype, and the numbers don't bare out the fears they encourage. Working with liquid fueled or mains electricity machines is way more likely to cause fires, along with many other hazards and fatalities. Battery packs such as these are extremely safe in proper use, and the machines they power are therefore much safer than their petrol driven alternatives. Short of running one of these over with a truck, you'd be very hard pushed to get one to catch fire, whereas a mere spark landing three feet away will do it for a fuel can. I'd re-assess these dangers if I were you. Only the cheapest lithium batteries are prone to catching fire, and powering vehicles with packs such as these is safer than any other method of transportation, maybe with the exception of sail.
@@JoesWebPresence Go watch successful electronics repair business founder/owner and 1.5M sub youtube channel Louise Rossman's eBike go into thermal runaway (ua-cam.com/video/JCaDz_2YcGQ/v-deo.html) - you guessed it, he used disreputable cheap Chinese 18650's. That fire is vicious, and those suckers will pop like incendiary M80s for hours in larger batteries - all you can do is contain the fire and wait it out. Those numbers you speak of... where are they exactly?
I didn't say it never happens @@thom1218 just that it's WAY less likely than say, petrol fumes igniting. The HSE has some stats confirming this, but ask your local fire brigade how many lithium battery fires they've had to deal with. As a supplemental, ask if the batteries were made in China. They will have been. Properly constructed Li-ion cells are far safer than any flammable liquid, for what I thought would have been obvious reasons. Avoid cheap Chinese ripoffs and you'll be fine.
A good safety advice can NEVER be wrong so you did a very good comment here ! Don´t forget to install smoke detectors on the ceiling in that room which react very quick on any smoke with a super loud beep noise ! In case of a fire ( which always can occur when having so many electronic parts in storage in that room ) there should be the knowledge how intense the fire can get and the knowledge that there is no way to extinguish the fire ! Lithium-Ion cells will burn with up to 1000°Celsius. The only possible solution is to throw burning batteries ( do not try to carry those burning battery packs by hand, just use a big showel ) into a big barrel which is completely filled with water to keep the burning battery cells under control for several days. May be you got a big swimming pool or a pond close to the storage building where you can throw the burning cells into. If not i would put several water filled barrels into different parts of that storage room to have quick acces to them in case of a fire. What also can help to prevent damage to the building is a fire blanket like this one : ua-cam.com/video/uXO_Xb8fvbc/v-deo.html
@@Ken_1971 Yes, thank you, Ken. That Joe web-guy is either a Chinese bot or a moron because that room in the video was the most dangerous place on UA-cam. The video guy obviously made no attempts to match original cabling and chargers, which is the fastest way to cause thermal overload. Once these devices get old, they are all ticking time-bombs. And I am sure that many of them are damaged as well. But, ya see what happens when we try to help? I predict battery fires to be a great problem especially with EVs... I predict they will be involved in so may fires that they won't be allowed in tunnels or for school buses, when the body counts significantly rise. I also predict a huge problem with fires in recycling centers and in trash dumps. I also predict that arsonists will start shooting guns at larger battery devices when they learn how easily they can be ignited. All of these fires create toxic pollutants which by far outweigh the use of petrol vs. EVs. EVs are just another way to control the population.
The bms low cut off voltage seems very low for a 13s battery. Should be around 36v. Makes me wonder if the bms is working correctly, and if it cuts the charge at the correct voltage (54.6 v or just below).
What is a discounted price? Also, Where can we locate these, or similar, if not larger packs? Thank you for this, as we have already purchased a few imported 36v lipos, and have been VERY pleased, accept we did think and act as if the little charge indicator LEDs are a VERY BASIC way of telling if its storage/80%/100% more or less, so this def. helped verify my thoughts on this particular yet common issue!
Try putting them into something and turning them on and see if they go back to sleep not charging them try actually using them and seeing if the BMS lights up all the battery sales on the front as long as you're using them off the bike they're probably just going to like a rest mode
I would open one up to see if the meter is set, with a jumper, to measure the wrong battery voltage. If they make multiple voltage, the display is likely the same with different settings.
often there is a chip in the BMS that counts down - for planned obsolescence. Try locating it and reseting it by pulling a reset pin down to 0 volts for a while, will give you some year/s before having to reset again.
Sounds like you may be on to something there. Some batteries for like BIOMED equipment come with guidelines from the manufacturer that, in some cases, count just five complete discharges as end-of-life. BIOMED standards are a very high level for obvious reasons. Tools manufacturers have between 500 and 1000 complete discharges as end-of-life mark.
You are thinking of an Apple device. I have seen a chip for charge cycle count yet to disable the battery pack? Its not needed as you need only wait for the end-user to not charge the bike for a year or so and the battery will fail. Its called the Segway syndrome as the clock in the display will drain the battery pack in about 6 months.
@@geraldhenrickson7472 very usual in Sweden to have BMS that count the charge cycles and shutoff by the BMS for bicycles with battery pack. so need to buy new pack after about 300+charges or simply reset the BMS and get 300 new charges ticking.
I dont know about this battery in particular but my 48v ebike battery can do 1250-1300w which is about 25 amps. (it could potentially go higher, I didnt want to burn the 500w motor.)
Hey! I have the same batteries at home. All of them start with 4 lights and then go to the mode with one light. It's just badly designed but I don't think that was the problem with the batteries. It's an older design though, so that would more likely be the reason why they were sold off.
@@sthlng2180 the one light led may show that the output is on of the battery, you can turn the battery on and off on the push button hold it down for 5sec maybe . My battery have a key to turn on and off
And sometime you could also be the fuse that some of them carry it has happened to me with my bike. The battery was good. The indicator was good, but the fuse was not.
Is it better to buy 2 of these or should I buy one new 12v 100ah lithium battery from Amazon... I need my PC to run, its total 600 watts. I already have a inverter that compatible with 12v-48v.
When weight isn't a concern you'll get more cycles out of a LifePO4 battery vs Li Ion. Calculate the total Wh capacity you need to cover your use case run time. Only downside to 12V is that you need thicker cabling, 600W is 50A at 12V. You could also use 2 12V batteries in series to get 24V.
@@ChrisP978 Thanks I ended up ordering the ECO-WORTHY 12V 100AH LiFePO4 had a $20 discount which I can also charge using my 4 solar panels in parallel. Are 8 gauge wires sufficient for 50A?
@@DavidHalko I have the 48v one of those , it seems that if it’s not under load it goes to standby , but once it’s being used the standby mode takes a few minutes to engage. Otherwise they are great cells and great cycle life .
@@jehugarcia what I really want to know is the BMS style. Is it a PCB custom BMS that run the whole length of the battery pack vs a small off the shelve one that is place at one end of the pack. I need to reconfigure a pack from 2 rolls of 20 cells to 4 rolls of 10cells without rebuilding the whole pack. If the BMS is at the end. I should be able to cut the pack down in the middle and rearrange it with only one connection need to resolder. It's for a razor scooter. Thanks
@@ianmangham4570 You have misunderstood the question... For those 48V batteries, the output requires a linear 4-spade connector and for the 36V batteries, those need a circular, 5-pin connector; I need those connectors identified.
Interesting , have also a bunch of these batteries with 21Ah 36V 756Wh from a former Bike Rental company. Most of them are in very good condition. The only deffect a view had was the display unit . One question did you get the 5-pin Reention Dorado plug somewhere, It is nearly imposible in the EU to find that ? The mount yes but not a singel male plug to use it as external Batterie.Thanks for your great videos. PPS: I use a 2000W /220V Bulb with a capacity cicuit for load testing
@jehugarcia I have same battery and plug doesn't give power to my bike but USB ports works well. Do you know why it's like that and it's possible to fix it for my self? Or can you fix that ??? Thanks
I got the battery and confirm that the BMS is the small one at the end. And to my surprise the total length with BMS is 11 3/16 inch or 285 mm. Which will fit inside the razor e200/300 tray.
Yes its a big problem.. I have photography lights if not used for a while it trips something on the board and starts to do that - you have to open it up and touch two tiny contacts on the board and it starts to work again... Its annoying... i think its to protect from underusage... but it should auto return to normal wen you start using it again
I had a one that turned on the ebike but as soon as I twist the throttle, the wheel spins for a fraction of a second and then the whole system shuts down. Opened up the pack and found that the discharge section was faulty. The charge section worked fine though.
Were you able to repair that battery pack? )and how?) I have a 48V/10.6 AH pack for a different E-bike (Ancheer),and after fully charging it,I ride maybe 4 miles out of it and the pack shuts down. I have a feeling the cells are OK,but the BMS has a fault like yours.
@@JayWye52 I bypassed the discharge section. Connected the cells output directly to the bike controller (cells > fuse > controller). The charge section goes the BMS (cells > BMS > fuse > changing DC input barrel jack)
You better bring a backup battery with you if you deep woods hunt camp or ride because I have the same battery here 48v 10.ah on my buke first the led display goes out and you now will get maybe 10 to 20 more charges before it dies....
YO DUDE WHAT HAPPENED WITH ALL THOSE BATTERIES, I'VE GOT A MAGNUM PEAK 27.5 EBIKE AND IT HAS THE EXACT SAME BATTERY AND MINE WON'T CHARGE ANYMORE? HOW DO I GET ONE OF THOSE BATTERIES????
Just got my delta pro it’s awesome. Charged it a bit from my scooter that has 4 of the 36v aluminum scooter batteries. Currently charging on solar outside. 👍
Hey Jehu how have you been? I wished to get that website you mentioned, this website helps to know the location of cells which cell will go where based on its capacity, I am not able to find the video in which you mentioned bro, I wish to tell you I started making batteries and trust me you are the inspiration from starting to know C rating of cells to making and welding actual packs ❤️❤️!!
do you or anyone have link for the type of connector needed to build my own connector to charge it? and do you have a video for it as well when you make it and test it?
Looks like some of the same behaviour we have on batteries sold to ebikes in Norway. They put in software in the bms so the customer think the battery is bad and make them buy new once. Its not good if thats the case as well with your batteries.
@jehugarcia, Do you have a dead Turbo Levo battery pack laying around? I have a bad chip on the battery, but it burn beyond recognition for us to know what it is so we can replace it. Thanks in advance!
I found my Ecoflow Delta 2 forgets where 0% is, over time the highest % gets lower & lower, what I have to do is discharge the battery. Yesterday I got it down to 1% then plugged in a kettle with 1 litre of water & it boiled & the Ecoflow Delta was still saying 1%. I think the battery management forgets were 0% is, what they should do is recognise when the battery stops accepting charge & realise that’s 100%. Wonder if the bike batteries have the same problem.
I do! And I think everyone should also remember to wear NTA helmets like xnito or bern hudson while ebiking or riding an escooter, cpsc helmets don't protect you on these class 3 e vehicles
Note: My R3's (I bought 3 here) work fine. I just have to press the button each time I start my ebike. The ebike with KT controller I have to press controller "ON" button at same time as the power pack button. Good thing is that the BMS shuts off and saves your battery. 1 green dot = BMS on. Hold button to turn off. --- Still need discharge connector for my R4 (SYR002). Is anyone creating those? Home-made ideas?
do you have the lock part,or a connector tthat i could connect to ebike the one that i charge in does't seem to work???thank for the video on batteries.
I’m interested in picking one or more up… Question - what charger would I use? Any idea of bike brand it goes to so I can figure out how to connect to an Ebike?
Any charger that is capable of charging a 48v battery. I recommend a universal charger the one I use is Grin Tech Cycle Satiator. It charges all ebike batteries up to 80v or so.
Instead of running heaters why not charge other batteries when discharging batteries? Like your car or a carry battery to use at home or power at the warehouse?
ok first thing I might be wrong but they are charge indicators in my cordless drill I have a charge indicator and when I press the button it shows me the charge that is in the battery and then it goes down to one
I have one of the little cheap-o ezip electric scooters, it was 36 volts with a 1000 watt motor and used lead acid (3 - 12 volt in series), will these scooter batteries work in that? I'd like a little more speed and a lot more range! I think the controller is rated for like 42 or 45 volts...
Anything lead acid can be directly replaced with lithium ion so long as you keep it in the man spec range. You can use a 36v battery forsure and get more range but you'd have to mod your scooter to accommodate.
It could work yes, depends on the BMS on the batteries thought. Not entirely sure but depending on the amps on the BMS the battery could cut out, I've had bad luck using ebike batteries on a scooter or electric cross.
think you should get in the case and measure the cell voltages . if 48v they will be 13sxp ... so check the 13voltage values and compare........ might be the bms is signaling its beyond balance capabilities because of single bad cells ...... or bms is bad ....
Hey what do you think has happened here? I bought 2 fastwheel f0 batteries and 2 Xiaomi fold up bicycles when I lived in china and used them a few times and left them for a few years now. All of them are dead and this is what I often find with packs that have been left. Seems to be the "mystery of batteries" I have stripped one of the f0 batteries and found they are 2200ma Samsung cells so they should be good quality. Found using the IMAX charger that its a 10S2P configuration and that 2 parallel cells are open circuit and the rest all have like 0.2V but do charge up one at a time showing a good capacity when charging. Still have yet to see if they hold a charge but just wonder what caused it to both go open circuit and then all the other cells to almost fully discharge. You think it will come back?
Does the battery's onboard BMS limit how many can be attached in parallel? Or could these form a large bank by attaching them to common pos and neg bars, and a charger?
Sir I dont have any background when it comes to batteries/electricity but I really want to build an ebike so I can get to my job back and forth which is 15km in total. I bought a 48v 20AH 13S 18650 lithium hailong battery from aliexpress. Any suggestion which motor and controller should I buy? Any reply is very much appreciated.
Send one to Big Clive! He’ll figure out what’s wrong with the battery meter part. :)
These are the batteries from Aventon pace 500 and 350 bikes. There is nothing wrong with the light. The green light just shows when its on. To check the power level you just push the button. You hold the button to turn it off. But I don't know why they have been rejected.
I think you are right. At switching on, the LEDs indicate that they are working, regardless on the battery state as long as it is not completely empty. The display on the handle bar will show the actual state during your cycling tour. When disconnected from the bike you can request the battery state by switching it on, the press the button for a short time so it does not switch off and the LEDs will roughly indicate the 1/4, 2/4, 3/4 or 4/4 state for a view seconds. So nothing wrong with them, just an obsolete or redundant batch of batteries sold for scrap.
Where can I find the connector to adapt to my 3 wheel trike?
@@crippledsteve7724 Sorry I don't know
Maybe there is nothing wrong with the batteries at all but are programmed for one LED to stay on to show that they are on and operational ready.
I was thinking the same.
I think that it is showing the charge level after you first turn it on, then goes to one light to indicate that it is on.
Push the button again to see how much charge you have left & hold the button to turn off.
I wish we had a store like your in Europe.. if some of the viewers know the good source to buy things like this in Europe - please reply. Thank you.
There's a seller on ebay in Europe, free shipping packages with 100x 18650 tested cells. They are the cheapest I have found for Samsung 29e and similar long cycle life batteries. 100x cost like 140 dollars.
@@leonordin3052 what’s the name of the company?
Here in Spain i know about second Life battery and some local stores that actually repair all kinds of batteries
@@leonordin3052 i would really like to find out who that seller is. Im currently screwing around with old packs with more electrolyte outside the cells then on the inside
Same here. Looking for a store in Europe
Man , I bought 8 and this is driving me crazy for past 2 days. Almost had to email support but just saw this video.
Were you able to figure out how to make them work? I just bought my first one
One thing to note if you're buying these to harvest cells is that they are extremely hard to get into, the metal case is tight around the cells.
Tell me about it i have packs of 21700 48V
I had to cut very carefuly cut using a dremel tool or very small wheel, the aluminum case then remove the silicone or whatever grey material then extract the cells
try to remove the screws and then with high pressure compressed air with a suction cup on the connector side
most of the faults are in the bms which is not tropicalized on the periphery of the circuit and the condensate does its job of corrosion
very sharp razor cut black silicone on each end then push the cell pack out the other end, push HARD! they slide right out!
Its a nightmare... I have to cut the whole case off?
I have the same batterie on my bike. Once the batterie was broken and I opened it to repair it. The current limiting resistors on the led indicators are getting really hot and tend to fail. Maybe this can help you to get what happened to them. By the way a solder joint was broken - an easy fix. Greetz
Did you see the BMS when you did the repair? Is it the very long custom BMS? Or the common small rectangular BMS?
@@josephau4623 If I remember correctly it was more of an rectangular shape.
@@JonnyDeRico what I mean was is it one of those long custom BMS that run the whole length of the battery vs the small one they put at the end of the pack? Also is the battery itself come out of the metal housing easy? Or its all glue in to the case? Thanks
@@josephau4623 Ah ok, it was a small bms at the end of the pack. It was glued but with
"sikaflex" as we called it in germany. Was a bit of a struggle. It is doable.
@@JonnyDeRico those a call caulking in the US. I got the battery and can 2nd the BMS is a small one located at the end. Bty do you know what size is the male DC adapter needed for the charger? Thanks
There's nothing wrong with them they're just not on the bike so they're going into a rest mode that's what it looks like to me. I don't think there's anything wrong with the indicator I think that's just what they do when they're not on a bike that's like a rest mode showing their ready but maybe not in use. That would explain why they dinged up one does the same thing the one heavily used one does the exact same thing as the brand-new looking..
How much did you have to pay for that pallet of batteries (cost per battery) ? How many are totally bad? Can you do a repair/autopsy of a bad battery? Why are the state of health/battery monitors failing? Lots of questions but, I bet other people would like the answers too.
Be careful of eBay's new dispute policy. I purchased fuses for my fluke multimeter the seller sent me the wrong item. Seller would not respond to my messages. eBay's robo customer service said the item was delivered they know this through tracking so you did receive your item, case closed. You can no longer call customer service.
My indicator didn't work either, and I had the same exact battery. I wish my replacement had the handle to grab like my original did. Now u can't grip it to pull off
Jehu, these are Aventon Pace 500 and 350 batteries. The fuel gauge displayed is normal operation for those batteries. The single light tells you it is on. To see the level tap the fuel gauge button once. Hold to turn off.
These are made with Chinese cells.
Thanks for the video! Great to meet you at octo yesterday!
Won't they be the type of displays that you have to press to see how charged they are, so when they've been discharged again you tap the button and get maybe two or three bars? I've seen (admittedly hand held) other battery banks having similar behaviour
It could also be a display check, to show all leds are working before actually showing the state of charge.
Hello ,when u gonna do the 12 volt lifepo4 60 cell pack build. I've already bought 8 of them
You always show how to on repurposing lithium batteries but could you do a video on how to charge these DIY packs with solar panels?
I was going to ask the same thing. A diy tutorial for most battery recharge station. Maybe a pc power supply
You would need a solar charger or an inverter and standard charger for the appropriate voltage .
I hope you have fire protection for your family and pets. Just one bad cell in one of those unit could set the whole lot off. The fire would spread from cell to cell and then ignite other units nearby. If you haven't watched any UA-cam videos of this, I strongly suggest you do. Mixing units from different manufacturers and using non-matched chargers and cables is the fastest way to cause a thermal overload. Once the fire starts it cannot be extinguished with water. And BTW, water alone can cause them to catch fire, especially salt water.
Easily scared people without the necessary info may think so, but these are li-ion 18650's. Unless you are seriously abusing them they are extremely safe, unlike li-po sachets and cheap Chinese proprietary cells found in phones and vapes. The youtube videos are hype, and the numbers don't bare out the fears they encourage. Working with liquid fueled or mains electricity machines is way more likely to cause fires, along with many other hazards and fatalities. Battery packs such as these are extremely safe in proper use, and the machines they power are therefore much safer than their petrol driven alternatives. Short of running one of these over with a truck, you'd be very hard pushed to get one to catch fire, whereas a mere spark landing three feet away will do it for a fuel can. I'd re-assess these dangers if I were you. Only the cheapest lithium batteries are prone to catching fire, and powering vehicles with packs such as these is safer than any other method of transportation, maybe with the exception of sail.
@@JoesWebPresence Go watch successful electronics repair business founder/owner and 1.5M sub youtube channel Louise Rossman's eBike go into thermal runaway (ua-cam.com/video/JCaDz_2YcGQ/v-deo.html) - you guessed it, he used disreputable cheap Chinese 18650's. That fire is vicious, and those suckers will pop like incendiary M80s for hours in larger batteries - all you can do is contain the fire and wait it out. Those numbers you speak of... where are they exactly?
I didn't say it never happens @@thom1218 just that it's WAY less likely than say, petrol fumes igniting. The HSE has some stats confirming this, but ask your local fire brigade how many lithium battery fires they've had to deal with. As a supplemental, ask if the batteries were made in China. They will have been. Properly constructed Li-ion cells are far safer than any flammable liquid, for what I thought would have been obvious reasons. Avoid cheap Chinese ripoffs and you'll be fine.
A good safety advice can NEVER be wrong so you did a very good comment here !
Don´t forget to install smoke detectors on the ceiling in that room which react very quick on any smoke with a super loud beep noise !
In case of a fire ( which always can occur when having so many electronic parts in storage in that room ) there should be the knowledge how intense the fire can get and the knowledge that there is no way to extinguish the fire ! Lithium-Ion cells will burn with up to 1000°Celsius.
The only possible solution is to throw burning batteries ( do not try to carry those burning battery packs by hand, just use a big showel ) into a big barrel which is completely filled with water to keep the burning battery cells under control for several days. May be you got a big swimming pool or a pond close to the storage building where you can throw the burning cells into. If not i would put several water filled barrels into different parts of that storage room to have quick acces to them in case of a fire.
What also can help to prevent damage to the building is a fire blanket like this one : ua-cam.com/video/uXO_Xb8fvbc/v-deo.html
@@Ken_1971 Yes, thank you, Ken. That Joe web-guy is either a Chinese bot or a moron because that room in the video was the most dangerous place on UA-cam. The video guy obviously made no attempts to match original cabling and chargers, which is the fastest way to cause thermal overload. Once these devices get old, they are all ticking time-bombs. And I am sure that many of them are damaged as well.
But, ya see what happens when we try to help?
I predict battery fires to be a great problem especially with EVs... I predict they will be involved in so may fires that they won't be allowed in tunnels or for school buses, when the body counts significantly rise. I also predict a huge problem with fires in recycling centers and in trash dumps. I also predict that arsonists will start shooting guns at larger battery devices when they learn how easily they can be ignited.
All of these fires create toxic pollutants which by far outweigh the use of petrol vs. EVs. EVs are just another way to control the population.
The bms low cut off voltage seems very low for a 13s battery. Should be around 36v. Makes me wonder if the bms is working correctly, and if it cuts the charge at the correct voltage (54.6 v or just below).
What is a discounted price? Also, Where can we locate these, or similar, if not larger packs? Thank you for this, as we have already purchased a few imported 36v lipos, and have been VERY pleased, accept we did think and act as if the little charge indicator LEDs are a VERY BASIC way of telling if its storage/80%/100% more or less, so this def. helped verify my thoughts on this particular yet common issue!
Try putting them into something and turning them on and see if they go back to sleep not charging them try actually using them and seeing if the BMS lights up all the battery sales on the front as long as you're using them off the bike they're probably just going to like a rest mode
Did you watch the video?
There is no problem with that LED. All is ok. It says IM ON. When u wake up indicator it shown SOC and then just showing status.
My thoughts exactly, it's a dual function, initially it shows you the state of charge and then it works as a pack on / off indicator.
I would open one up to see if the meter is set, with a jumper, to measure the wrong battery voltage. If they make multiple voltage, the display is likely the same with different settings.
Whats that charger with nobs that apeared in the start of the video? The ones with cables charging the battery. Cab you pls send model? Thank you.
don't think there is anything wrong with the display, just does not show state of charge all the time but shows it is ON...
Well that shows you how much I know about ebike
often there is a chip in the BMS that counts down - for planned obsolescence. Try locating it and reseting it by pulling a reset pin down to 0 volts for a while, will give you some year/s before having to reset again.
Sounds like you may be on to something there. Some batteries for like BIOMED equipment come with guidelines from the manufacturer that, in some cases, count just five complete discharges as end-of-life. BIOMED standards are a very high level for obvious reasons. Tools manufacturers have between 500 and 1000 complete discharges as end-of-life mark.
You are thinking of an Apple device. I have seen a chip for charge cycle count yet to disable the battery pack? Its not needed as you need only wait for the end-user to not charge the bike for a year or so and the battery will fail. Its called the Segway syndrome as the clock in the display will drain the battery pack in about 6 months.
@@geraldhenrickson7472 very usual in Sweden to have BMS that count the charge cycles and shutoff by the BMS for bicycles with battery pack. so need to buy new pack after about 300+charges or simply reset the BMS and get 300 new charges ticking.
took a lot of detective work to find this out in a pair of different service centers - not by me.
What e-bikes would these work for. Also what are you selling em for? What is the name of your store to be able to purchase some. Thanks for your time.
Not bad, I'm jealous, I would gladly buy 2-3 pcs. I have an ebike with such a battery, hehe, greetings from Poland
I dont know about this battery in particular but my 48v ebike battery can do 1250-1300w which is about 25 amps. (it could potentially go higher, I didnt want to burn the 500w motor.)
I am looking for the discharge connector/plug for this battery.
Hey!
I have the same batteries at home. All of them start with 4 lights and then go to the mode with one light. It's just badly designed but I don't think that was the problem with the batteries.
It's an older design though, so that would more likely be the reason why they were sold off.
Its not bad design, theres no reason for all 4 leds to drain power, no matter how little power they consume
@@sthlng2180 the one light led may show that the output is on of the battery, you can turn the battery on and off on the push button hold it down for 5sec maybe . My battery have a key to turn on and off
And sometime you could also be the fuse that some of them carry it has happened to me with my bike. The battery was good. The indicator was good, but the fuse was not.
So where are you located and do you fix a2b bike batteries? I can’t find anything.
Is it better to buy 2 of these or should I buy one new 12v 100ah lithium battery from Amazon... I need my PC to run, its total 600 watts. I already have a inverter that compatible with 12v-48v.
When weight isn't a concern you'll get more cycles out of a LifePO4 battery vs Li Ion. Calculate the total Wh capacity you need to cover your use case run time. Only downside to 12V is that you need thicker cabling, 600W is 50A at 12V. You could also use 2 12V batteries in series to get 24V.
@@ChrisP978 Thanks I ended up ordering the ECO-WORTHY 12V 100AH LiFePO4 had a $20 discount which I can also charge using my 4 solar panels in parallel. Are 8 gauge wires sufficient for 50A?
@@rahmanr112 8 gauge is adequate if distance to inverter is short (< 4 feet).
@@ChrisP978 Perfect thanks!
How about draining the battery down tho half and press the button, if half of LEDs lighted up and went back to one LED, then I think it is normal.
I have 2 of those, I use them on my E bike, good batteries. Heavy lump. Mine are 48 v. It’s a standby after a few minutes.
What does that mean, “a standby after a few minutes?”
@@DavidHalko I have the 48v one of those , it seems that if it’s not under load it goes to standby , but once it’s being used the standby mode takes a few minutes to engage. Otherwise they are great cells and great cycle life .
@@antoniopalmero4063 - how do you get it out of standby mode? By putting load on it? (Or do you have to hit a button to re-activate it again?)
@@DavidHalko yes just hit off on button or turn bike on . Seems to be how mine works . I have an NCM Moscow.
I have a ebike battery that does this. One press is battery level, long press sets the ebike assistance level shown on the battery level LEDs.
Can you open up one of these R3 we can take a look at the BMS and how the cell arrange inside.
I already did
@@jehugarcia no you did not. Only open the R4 and R5.
@@jehugarcia what I really want to know is the BMS style. Is it a PCB custom BMS that run the whole length of the battery pack vs a small off the shelve one that is place at one end of the pack. I need to reconfigure a pack from 2 rolls of 20 cells to 4 rolls of 10cells without rebuilding the whole pack. If the BMS is at the end. I should be able to cut the pack down in the middle and rearrange it with only one connection need to resolder. It's for a razor scooter. Thanks
Hey man I need one of these exact batteries for my bike but the website has sold out - can you sell me one of yours?
Hey, Jag how much for the 54.6v battery for E-bike tested and with a charger?
Very nice sir , if I buy will they be ship out on Monday or as they orders come in ?
Can you list the type of connectors needed to go from these batteries to a controller?
Depends what connector is on the controller
@@ianmangham4570 You have misunderstood the question... For those 48V batteries, the output requires a linear 4-spade connector and for the 36V batteries, those need a circular, 5-pin connector; I need those connectors identified.
@@klepperkamarad Black jst or White JST.
@@ianmangham4570 Not helpful; there are thousands of choices... Am looking for specific connector part #'s that exactly match the batteries outputs.
Interesting , have also a bunch of these batteries with 21Ah 36V 756Wh from a former Bike Rental company. Most of them are in very good condition. The only deffect a view had was the display unit . One question did you get the 5-pin Reention Dorado plug somewhere, It is nearly imposible in the EU to find that ? The mount yes but not a singel male plug to use it as external Batterie.Thanks for your great videos. PPS: I use a 2000W /220V Bulb with a capacity cicuit for load testing
@jehugarcia I have same battery and plug doesn't give power to my bike but USB ports works well. Do you know why it's like that and it's possible to fix it for my self? Or can you fix that ??? Thanks
a 60 volt 20ah ebike can you plug in charge with eco flow while driving a Ebike?
I got the battery and confirm that the BMS is the small one at the end. And to my surprise the total length with BMS is 11 3/16 inch or 285 mm. Which will fit inside the razor e200/300 tray.
I just had the same problem removing the fuse and check it them reinstall the fuse
Yes its a big problem.. I have photography lights if not used for a while it trips something on the board and starts to do that - you have to open it up and touch two tiny contacts on the board and it starts to work again... Its annoying... i think its to protect from underusage... but it should auto return to normal wen you start using it again
I had a one that turned on the ebike but as soon as I twist the throttle, the wheel spins for a fraction of a second and then the whole system shuts down. Opened up the pack and found that the discharge section was faulty. The charge section worked fine though.
Were you able to repair that battery pack? )and how?) I have a 48V/10.6 AH pack for a different E-bike (Ancheer),and after fully charging it,I ride maybe 4 miles out of it and the pack shuts down. I have a feeling the cells are OK,but the BMS has a fault like yours.
@@JayWye52 I bypassed the discharge section. Connected the cells output directly to the bike controller (cells > fuse > controller). The charge section goes the BMS (cells > BMS > fuse > changing DC input barrel jack)
I had problem with the led display on the battery but it still performs very well.
I just ordered the 48 volt pack for a project what type of charger should I get?
You better bring a backup battery with you if you deep woods hunt camp or ride because I have the same battery here 48v 10.ah on my buke first the led display goes out and you now will get maybe 10 to 20 more charges before it dies....
@@CETGale what voltage do you charge your battery to? I'm trying to figure out I just bought one of these packs and can't find the info
@@egidio6david0 IDK just used the one that came with the bike. I think its 2ah per hr
@@CETGale cool thanks for the reply. I bought the power supply / charger he used in the video but I don't know what to set it at
YO DUDE WHAT HAPPENED WITH ALL THOSE BATTERIES, I'VE GOT A MAGNUM PEAK 27.5 EBIKE AND IT HAS THE EXACT SAME BATTERY AND MINE WON'T CHARGE ANYMORE? HOW DO I GET ONE OF THOSE BATTERIES????
can i please know the name of that song??.. and what instrument is used for it?... sounds really nice..
Just got my delta pro it’s awesome. Charged it a bit from my scooter that has 4 of the 36v aluminum scooter batteries. Currently charging on solar outside. 👍
I love your videos...... I have learned a lot here... Thank you very much
Hey Jehu how have you been? I wished to get that website you mentioned, this website helps to know the location of cells which cell will go where based on its capacity, I am not able to find the video in which you mentioned bro, I wish to tell you I started making batteries and trust me you are the inspiration from starting to know C rating of cells to making and welding actual packs ❤️❤️!!
I have a Rad folding E bike will this battery work on it?
I bought 2,can i ask what kind of connector ca i use?
those led lights indicator I replace it by volt meter and also its bms.
what kind of charger would the 48s use??
do you or anyone have link for the type of connector needed to build my own connector to charge it? and do you have a video for it as well when you make it and test it?
Looks like some of the same behaviour we have on batteries sold to ebikes in Norway. They put in software in the bms so the customer think the battery is bad and make them buy new once. Its not good if thats the case as well with your batteries.
@jehugarcia, Do you have a dead Turbo Levo battery pack laying around? I have a bad chip on the battery, but it burn beyond recognition for us to know what it is so we can replace it. Thanks in advance!
where do you go to get the bipin connector??
Did you modify the powersupply to be used as CC/CV charger? @ 9:11 If yes, how did you do it? Could you share it with us?
I found my Ecoflow Delta 2 forgets where 0% is, over time the highest % gets lower & lower, what I have to do is discharge the battery. Yesterday I got it down to 1% then plugged in a kettle with 1 litre of water & it boiled & the Ecoflow Delta was still saying 1%. I think the battery management forgets were 0% is, what they should do is recognise when the battery stops accepting charge & realise that’s 100%. Wonder if the bike batteries have the same problem.
Hey I need to buy a new battery for an old lime-s 3.2
It's 36V
15.9 h
572.4 WH
You got any. If them that work?
My Brain "What the hell is wrong with all these eBike Batteries"
Actual title "Here is what is wrong with all these eBike Batteries"
If I remember, remember all those Ebike/scooter rental companies that collapsed?
I do! And I think everyone should also remember to wear NTA helmets like xnito or bern hudson while ebiking or riding an escooter, cpsc helmets don't protect you on these class 3 e vehicles
Note: My R3's (I bought 3 here) work fine. I just have to press the button each time I start my ebike. The ebike with KT controller I have to press controller "ON" button at same time as the power pack button. Good thing is that the BMS shuts off and saves your battery. 1 green dot = BMS on. Hold button to turn off. --- Still need discharge connector for my R4 (SYR002). Is anyone creating those? Home-made ideas?
Seems like a stupid software thing. Someone decided to save led power or a bug in programming.
It's powerbank, not solar generator.
Are these like the rention dorado packs? The mounts look similar.
Are you going to restock these on your store any time soon?
do you have the lock part,or a connector tthat i could connect to ebike the one that i charge in does't seem to work???thank for the video on batteries.
I’m interested in picking one or more up…
Question - what charger would I use? Any idea of bike brand it goes to so I can figure out how to connect to an Ebike?
@M Wing yep
Any charger that is capable of charging a 48v battery. I recommend a universal charger the one I use is Grin Tech Cycle Satiator. It charges all ebike batteries up to 80v or so.
Nice work!
It's normal for them to show 4 bars for "I am full" to go to one light bar for "I am on". Let me buy a 36 volt. How much?
Instead of running heaters why not charge other batteries when discharging batteries? Like your car or a carry battery to use at home or power at the warehouse?
I need a 48v-15Ah battery charger for a Bafang 48v-750w mid drive motor, can you help? Thanks, Jesse
is it easier to buy an aftermarket ebike battery that already has a BMS on it..?
Hi, how much for a 36v one and do you ship to South Africa?
ok first thing I might be wrong but they are charge indicators in my cordless drill I have a charge indicator and when I press the button it shows me the charge that is in the battery and then it goes down to one
You any left for sale 20 amp or lower please
Hello please I need help my Battery is fully charged but when I comnect it to my bike then it shuts down why is that happening
I have one of the little cheap-o ezip electric scooters, it was 36 volts with a 1000 watt motor and used lead acid (3 - 12 volt in series), will these scooter batteries work in that? I'd like a little more speed and a lot more range! I think the controller is rated for like 42 or 45 volts...
Anything lead acid can be directly replaced with lithium ion so long as you keep it in the man spec range. You can use a 36v battery forsure and get more range but you'd have to mod your scooter to accommodate.
It could work yes, depends on the BMS on the batteries thought. Not entirely sure but depending on the amps on the BMS the battery could cut out, I've had bad luck using ebike batteries on a scooter or electric cross.
Hi I got ebike 48v what charger do I need it'd same battery as this I thing I got wrong charger it goes green then dim then green, is it charging?
Are they 13s or 14s? Both are called ✌️48v✌️ at times.
Both
My 48 volt ebike charger charges at 59 volts can I still use to charge those batteries???
Sounds like a 52v charger and wouldn't be compatible. 48v charges at around 54v
think you should get in the case and measure the cell voltages . if 48v they will be 13sxp ... so check the 13voltage values and compare........ might be the bms is signaling its beyond balance capabilities because of single bad cells ...... or bms is bad ....
Pumping out good content all the time!
Hi, What kind of charger is that?
Hey what do you think has happened here?
I bought 2 fastwheel f0 batteries and 2 Xiaomi fold up bicycles when I lived in china and used them a few times and left them for a few years now. All of them are dead and this is what I often find with packs that have been left. Seems to be the "mystery of batteries"
I have stripped one of the f0 batteries and found they are 2200ma Samsung cells so they should be good quality.
Found using the IMAX charger that its a 10S2P configuration and that 2 parallel cells are open circuit and the rest all have like 0.2V but do charge up one at a time showing a good capacity when charging.
Still have yet to see if they hold a charge but just wonder what caused it to both go open circuit and then all the other cells to almost fully discharge.
You think it will come back?
Once lithium batteries go below a certain voltage the batteries are no good anymore
Where can I buy some of these ebike batteries?
It may be A Software Firmware Issue why the LED indicators is miss behaving (or in a Undocumented Stage)
Does the battery's onboard BMS limit how many can be attached in parallel? Or could these form a large bank by attaching them to common pos and neg bars, and a charger?
You can parallel as many as you want
Can I run a few in series ?
Do you still have any of those batteries?
Where did you get the small meter?
Ar not you sending them to uk?
No
Sir I dont have any background when it comes to batteries/electricity but I really want to build an ebike so I can get to my job back and forth which is 15km in total. I bought a 48v 20AH 13S 18650 lithium hailong battery from aliexpress. Any suggestion which motor and controller should I buy? Any reply is very much appreciated.
Bafang mid mounted diy ebike is an option im considering.....
How did you get on?
I had to rebuild one because it fused itself to the connector.
what are the dimensions of the battery their are like 3 sizes
Any deals on a 24v ebike battery
I don’t have any 24v ebike packs, Never even seen one yet