I have a Volvo xc 60 T6. Now close to 100,000 miles. During last oil change, Midas tech said everything seems OK, but it is due for spark plugs change. Gave me an estimate, which was $580 plus tax. I thought this was awfully high. I used to repair my own cars, but now the cars are more complicated with all the electronics, and I have not done anything on my cars for about 15 years. Your video gave me courage to have a DIY. I spent $80 to order genuine Volvo spark plugs, but had to buy a 5/8 socket from AutoZone. This costs me $8. Spent about 1.5 hours to get the job done. Not too hard. Thank you for your video.
Just a few words to thank you. Following the steps in your video, I managed to change the spark plugs in my 2009 Volvo XC70 T6. It went well. Again, thank you. Please keep doing these videos. They are very well done and very useful.
It's a good idea to inspect the coil-pack harness for any cracks in the wire jackets. (I found 3 bare copper exposures (jacket splits) on my 2013 T6.) You can seal any cracks with a non-acidic glue, such as super-glue (methacrylate) or vinyl cement. If not sealed, these spots will corrode/sever, leading to spark failure.
just changed my plugs.with Bosch Iridium. easy to change but I did mine one plug at a time. disconnected one coil at a time removed and inspected. Took about an hour but well worth it. Normal and consistent wear pattern for 108K miles. Do the forget the Anti Sieze on the threads and a dab of Die Electric grease on the plug tip. Also AutoZone makes a dedicated 5/8" spark plug socket. The extension is built into the socket to prevent the extension from falling out during removal and replacement. This extension should be long enough for most spark plug chambers but other extensions can be connected to this one if necessary.
Thanks for this clear, straightforward video ; my 2012 3.2 litre at (only) 97 000km is up for a plug change which be a DIY as always in my garage ! So, apparently no need to disconnect the battery or faff around with engine codes what a relief.
On my 2013 T6, I had to detach a ground lug and a harness tie-down (both 8 mm bolts) to move the harness out of the way enough to retract coil-packs 2 & 3. Also be gentle unplugging the harness connector to the coil pack...this is a part you do not want to break. Inspect the low-voltage wires for each plug....if cracked insulation sheath, seal with non-acidic sealant (dab of super glue).
You should always check your spark plug gap on each new plug before putting them in. What if the package was dropped at one time and messed up the gap?. I've found many plugs over the years with different gaps due to the packages being dropped or something where they hit the floor on the electrode side and it bends and changes the gap. Don't just trust them to be correct out of the package. I always number the coil packs and put them back in the same order.
I bought the Volvo spark plugs on line, they look different from the ones I used to have when I was working on Japanese cars. There are very thin wire sticking out to form the gap and all the gaps are smaller than the suggested 0.018. I didn't adjust them. After driving thousand miles, I found the gas mileage dropped after I changed the plugs.(was 19.2,now 18.2) I took couple of the spark plugs out, now the gas are wider, more than 0.018. I am wondering if the wires are being consumed, and the gap will change over time. If so, why is it important to adjust the gap to begin with.
Thank you so much for showing how easy it is to complete. I just completed this for my 2013 S60 T6 R-Design and it was so easy. Just hope I popped them in correctly.
Great video. I have a similar engine, 2011 S60 T6. Was just charged $750 to replace 2 bad coils and plugs. Wish I watched this video before I brought it in.
Wow! I'm sorry to hear that. I grabbed a new coil at AutoZone for $50 and replaced it in my driveway in just a few minutes. If it makes you feel a little better, I *did* just pay $1200 to have my accessory belt, idler pulley and tensioner replaced lol.
Coils are very expensive. All 6 of mine were replaced along with the ECU back in 2012 because they were faulty. Luckily under warrenty. The car basically wouldn't start.
@@thedoriangray666 when you replaced the ideler pulley and tensioner was it because it was making noise when you put it in gear ???.....Cause that's what my Volvo is doing 😮
Great video. Your Volvo maintenance videos are excellent! With the help of your video I intend to do the plugs on my 2008 S80 3.2L in the near future. Thank you
Another great video. Question: When we start the engine to check, what exatly I have to check??!? The sound? Any sparks?... Thank you so much for you're tutorial. I never so the mechanic on my Volvo but you gibe me confidence. I think I can start with changing the spark plug. Cпасибо from Montréal!
Please take my advice from an old experienced mechanic. NEVER use power tools to remove or install spark plugs. You must feel the threads the plug threading resistance the whole way up and down. Line up the used plugs in cylinder order for studying to find out all sorts of things about the engine. Always use a torque wrench and manufacturer's exact torque specification for tightening. With these new fangled aluminum head engines I have seen too many ruined heads by DIYers who do not follow the manufacturer's torque specifications. Too tight or too loose results in blown out spark plugs and a ruined head. Buy yourself a good specialized spark plug socket that holds the plug for removal and installation. A normal deep socket may crack the plug porcelain.
This advice is spot-on. However, it should be pointed out that he didn't use an impact driver, just cheap electric drill... has very low torque. For instruction purposes, it could mislead others.who may easily damage head threads. But in his case, he took little-to-no risk. Still a very important point. And i did not notice a torque value stated. Tho that could be difficult to say threading into an older head, since aluminum is 'grabby'~
Thank you for posting these! Volvo DIY newbie over here and you've saved me a ton of $$ on maintenance.Would love to know if that 240 is still kicking.
Oh and by the way, it's better NOT to use anti-seize on modern spark plugs. They already have a coating on the threads. The only application where you MUST use anti-seize is on stainless steel fasteners (nuts & bolts) especially if screwed into another stainless steel. I'm a retired mechanical engineer and when I used to work for a big turbine manufacturer, we had some horrific seizures on large SS bolts...
The new Volvo 2.0L 4 cylinder engines are Direct injection only, (no port injectors). Is there a valve cleaning service you recommend. I’ve heard there a company called Kleen-Flow in Canada that uses high pressure air admired with crushed walnut shells to clean the valves. Have you ever heard of these folks? I live In Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.
$1300usd? For just the spark plugs is INSANE considering you can buy 6 Iridium plugs for under $80, but if they are replacing the coils as well at a Volvo dealer with genuine Volvo parts then that sounds about right, as soon as anything has Volvo written on it the price triples. You are better off going to a European specialist shop if you want to save money, or do it yourself. A lot of places sell genuine Volvo parts but with the Volvo label removed for half the price. 🇦🇺
When the vehicle is accelerated in an instant, there is a metal friction noise that boils under the vehicle. I doubt it is knocking. How much octane gasoline do you put in your vehicle? Could it be another cause?
The plug has an aluminum crush washer. You can feel the increased resistance to turning while the washer is being squished. When this phase ends, resistance goes up fast. This is signal to go no further than another 1/12th turn past the end of washer crush phase.
@@erginiscen No. Look at the link below. These are 14mm threads so 25-30Nm is good. 33 Nm is too much. www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/qa/q18/index.html
Did you just change them because you can or did you notice engine misfires. I seem to have a couple of stutters at at around 4000 revs on harsh acceleration. You videos are fab thank you for all your hard work. ?
Good question but not sure if misfiring can be the cause of those stutters. I get the stutters on hard acceleration too. Honestly I think it can be lag. but I do know it’s not bad to change spark plugs. They are very important and with enough carbon build up they can go bad.
@@astritmelenica876 Thank you very much for your reply. I replaced the spark plugs with bosh iridium's and it has in fact sorted it out. It is like a new engine. I hope this is useful to you in the future.
My 2012 3.2 litre at 97 000km (60 000 miles) stutters occasionally too. Sometimes throws up a check engine light. Took it to the local dealer who after running a code check, said it MIGHT be a faulty exhaust gas sensor occasionally sending wrong information to the CPU.. he wasn't sure so we haven't done anything about it. New plugs due next week thanks to this video, perhaps that will make a difference.
Tighten by hand is not such a good idea aluminium heads are easy to strip ,use a torque wrench or tighten with the extension only as much as you can then give half a turn with the ratchet.
Yes definitely with a torque wrench for aluminium. NGK specifies 25-30 Nm for this size thread. They are 14mm threads. Edit: See here: www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/qa/q18/index.html
If you don't have a torque wrench, when the plug "hits the bottom", you'll feel resistance to turning as the aluminum crush washer starts to be flattened. You're ~1/2 turn from done. When completely crushed, you'll feel increased resistance to turning. That is the signal to stop....it's done. Any further turning-force can strip the head's delicate aluminum threads, so don't go there!!!!
I've owned my vehicle for 5y (50K mi) and have yet to swap the spark plugs. No issues but last summer I had to have the radiator fan replaced due to overheating and the mechanics recommended I change the spark plugs and put a new timing belt in. I elected to wait and budget. Now a year later I have some time this week and decide to swap out the plugs. I grab 6 Autolite XP5325 plugs and install them as seen in your video. After starting the engine my dash has a check engine light, a rough idle, and says to shift to lower gear or slow down. The engine then shut itself off. Troubleshooting: - I put the old plugs back. Same result. - I doublechecked the tightness of seals. Same result. I did not use a gap tool. What I thought was a simple maintenance has now become a major problem. What can I do other than have it towed to my shop? What do you think is going on? Thanks in advance for your help.
На 3.2 я ставлю свечи ленд ровер и прекрасно и фильтр поставил на акпп от фирмы паркер ну дешевой за 600 руб возле радиатора как на драйве советуют уже 3 года стоит фильтр
The fuel rail is just infront (towards the front of the car) of the engine and just backward of the intake manifold (the black thing at the front which divides into 6 (for 6 cylinders). The fuel injectors should be under there.
You can see the fuel rail at 4:04 of the video. It is silver'ish aluminum in color. If you follow the wire connectors in front of the oil cap...those are the fuel injectors.
There are some things you should never use power tools on, and spark plugs on aluminium cylinder heads is one. Its just far too easy to damage the threads and then the consequences are just too high. 🇦🇺
+rupert ross Get a set of spark plugs at any of your local auto spare parts shops not the Volvo dealer. GIve them the engine details and they should know what type. I wouldn't bother changing coils until they start to give trouble .. probably a waste of money to do so before.
Свечи промыть в ржавчина преобразователь держу 3 часа и чистая чистая становица и можно еще 2 года использовать и опять преобразовательржавчина и юеленькая свечКа становица как новенькая и еще два года катайся
I have a Volvo xc 60 T6. Now close to 100,000 miles. During last oil change, Midas tech said everything seems OK, but it is due for spark plugs change. Gave me an estimate, which was $580 plus tax. I thought this was awfully high. I used to repair my own cars, but now the cars are more complicated with all the electronics, and I have not done anything on my cars for about 15 years. Your video gave me courage to have a DIY. I spent $80 to order genuine Volvo spark plugs, but had to buy a 5/8 socket from AutoZone. This costs me $8. Spent about 1.5 hours to get the job done. Not too hard. Thank you for your video.
Just a few words to thank you. Following the steps in your video, I managed to change the spark plugs in my 2009 Volvo XC70 T6. It went well. Again, thank you. Please keep doing these videos. They are very well done and very useful.
It's a good idea to inspect the coil-pack harness for any cracks in the wire jackets. (I found 3 bare copper exposures (jacket splits) on my 2013 T6.) You can seal any cracks with a non-acidic glue, such as super-glue (methacrylate) or vinyl cement. If not sealed, these spots will corrode/sever, leading to spark failure.
just changed my plugs.with Bosch Iridium. easy to change but I did mine one plug at a time. disconnected one coil at a time removed and inspected. Took about an hour but well worth it. Normal and consistent wear pattern for 108K miles. Do the forget the Anti Sieze on the threads and a dab of Die Electric grease on the plug tip. Also AutoZone makes a dedicated 5/8" spark plug socket. The extension is built into the socket to prevent the extension from falling out during removal and replacement. This extension should be long enough for most spark plug chambers but other extensions can be connected to this one if necessary.
My 16mm spark plug socket is magnetic so it holds the spark plug in so it doensn't fall out.
It's 8mm not 5/16
I love your website. For me, it's so educative. The way you comment on each step is great. I will certainly try this one.
Didn't know he had a website?
Thanks for this clear, straightforward video ; my 2012 3.2 litre at (only) 97 000km is up for a plug change which be a DIY as always in my garage ! So, apparently no need to disconnect the battery or faff around with engine codes what a relief.
On my 2013 T6, I had to detach a ground lug and a harness tie-down (both 8 mm bolts) to move the harness out of the way enough to retract coil-packs 2 & 3.
Also be gentle unplugging the harness connector to the coil pack...this is a part you do not want to break.
Inspect the low-voltage wires for each plug....if cracked insulation sheath, seal with non-acidic sealant (dab of super glue).
do you know what is the type of spark plug for 2013 T6 engines?
I began to have some little misfires. I ordered new Bosch Iridium spark plugs. This video will be helpful !
You should always check your spark plug gap on each new plug before putting them in. What if the package was dropped at one time and messed up the gap?. I've found many plugs over the years with different gaps due to the packages being dropped or something where they hit the floor on the electrode side and it bends and changes the gap. Don't just trust them to be correct out of the package.
I always number the coil packs and put them back in the same order.
Yeah. I just took them out 1 by 1 so I didn't mix them up.
I bought the Volvo spark plugs on line, they look different from the ones I used to have when I was working on Japanese cars. There are very thin wire sticking out to form the gap and all the gaps are smaller than the suggested 0.018. I didn't adjust them. After driving thousand miles, I found the gas mileage dropped after I changed the plugs.(was 19.2,now 18.2) I took couple of the spark plugs out, now the gas are wider, more than 0.018. I am wondering if the wires are being consumed, and the gap will change over time. If so, why is it important to adjust the gap to begin with.
Thank you so much for showing how easy it is to complete. I just completed this for my 2013 S60 T6 R-Design and it was so easy. Just hope I popped them in correctly.
Great video. I have a similar engine, 2011 S60 T6. Was just charged $750 to replace 2 bad coils and plugs. Wish I watched this video before I brought it in.
What a rip off
Wow! I'm sorry to hear that. I grabbed a new coil at AutoZone for $50 and replaced it in my driveway in just a few minutes. If it makes you feel a little better, I *did* just pay $1200 to have my accessory belt, idler pulley and tensioner replaced lol.
Jesus ?! And you paid that much 😳
You should go the get around 600 back..
Coils are very expensive. All 6 of mine were replaced along with the ECU back in 2012 because they were faulty. Luckily under warrenty. The car basically wouldn't start.
@@thedoriangray666 when you replaced the ideler pulley and tensioner was it because it was making noise when you put it in gear ???.....Cause that's what my Volvo is doing 😮
Very helpful video, I used it to work on my 2012 S60 T6 today. Thank you
I am sure you enjoy working in your car by your hands . very good job bro.👏👏👏👏👏👏
Great video. Your Volvo maintenance videos are excellent! With the help of your video I intend to do the plugs on my 2008 S80 3.2L in the near future. Thank you
Another great video. Question: When we start the engine to check, what exatly I have to check??!? The sound? Any sparks?... Thank you so much for you're tutorial. I never so the mechanic on my Volvo but you gibe me confidence. I think I can start with changing the spark plug. Cпасибо from Montréal!
Please take my advice from an old experienced mechanic. NEVER use power tools to remove or install spark plugs. You must feel the threads the plug threading resistance the whole way up and down. Line up the used plugs in cylinder order for studying to find out all sorts of things about the engine. Always use a torque wrench and manufacturer's exact torque specification for tightening. With these new fangled aluminum head engines I have seen too many ruined heads by DIYers who do not follow the manufacturer's torque specifications. Too tight or too loose results in blown out spark plugs and a ruined head. Buy yourself a good specialized spark plug socket that holds the plug for removal and installation. A normal deep socket may crack the plug porcelain.
I can’t believe it took that long for someone to point that out
Also do I have to add anti seize lubricant ?
This advice is spot-on. However, it should be pointed out that he didn't use an impact driver, just cheap electric drill... has very low torque. For instruction purposes, it could mislead others.who may easily damage head threads. But in his case, he took little-to-no risk. Still a very important point. And i did not notice a torque value stated. Tho that could be difficult to say threading into an older head, since aluminum is 'grabby'~
Thank you for posting these! Volvo DIY newbie over here and you've saved me a ton of $$ on maintenance.Would love to know if that 240 is still kicking.
Oh and by the way, it's better NOT to use anti-seize on modern spark plugs. They already have a coating on the threads. The only application where you MUST use anti-seize is on stainless steel fasteners (nuts & bolts) especially if screwed into another stainless steel. I'm a retired mechanical engineer and when I used to work for a big turbine manufacturer, we had some horrific seizures on large SS bolts...
Extremely helpful video
What is the gap for 3.2 engine if using other brand of spark plugs? Some say 0.028 and some 0.040 , which one is right?
The new Volvo 2.0L 4 cylinder engines are Direct injection only, (no port injectors). Is there a valve cleaning service you recommend. I’ve heard there a company called Kleen-Flow in Canada that uses high pressure air admired with crushed walnut shells to clean the valves. Have you ever heard of these folks?
I live In Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.
Use it when you have misfires...
Why no anti seize used on the bolts securing the coils?
Question for other repair mechanics - My Volvo Service repair shop wanted to charge me over $1,300 to replace these. Seemed extremely high. Comments?
$1300usd? For just the spark plugs is INSANE considering you can buy 6 Iridium plugs for under $80, but if they are replacing the coils as well at a Volvo dealer with genuine Volvo parts then that sounds about right, as soon as anything has Volvo written on it the price triples.
You are better off going to a European specialist shop if you want to save money, or do it yourself.
A lot of places sell genuine Volvo parts but with the Volvo label removed for half the price. 🇦🇺
Hi, air need to change plugs, do you think they will come out easy with 117,000 mile on it?
I see you maintain your Volvo very well. The best spark plug ?
Original plugs. Should be no problem changing them
@@volvosweden Thank you
When the vehicle is accelerated in an instant, there is a metal friction noise that boils under the vehicle. I doubt it is knocking. How much octane gasoline do you put in your vehicle? Could it be another cause?
What kind of oil do you use ? 5w30?
I use in my 0w30 and replace every 10000 km +oil filter
I Take it the plugs came with the correct gap setting as you did not use any feeler gauges ?
No need. Preset for this engine. Unless you buy non Volvo, then maybe.
Your video doesn't include torque specifications for the plugs which is important.
25 ft-lb should be good.
The plug has an aluminum crush washer. You can feel the increased resistance to turning while the washer is being squished. When this phase ends, resistance goes up fast. This is signal to go no further than another 1/12th turn past the end of washer crush phase.
@@pbierre Still not very consistent though. A torque measurement is much better if you have a torque wrench.
@@erginiscen No. Look at the link below. These are 14mm threads so 25-30Nm is good. 33 Nm is too much.
www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/qa/q18/index.html
@@hugoburton5222 Thank you!
Very useful and detailed as usual, thank you.
Spasiba Yuri !!!
Interesting. Got these recently, expensive plugs. I was told by mechanic they last 36,000 miles. Someone else said longer. Which is true?
The maintenance schedule for my 2011 S60 only calls for spark plugs to be replaced every 75,000 miles, so I would hope they last longer than 36K.
Did you just change them because you can or did you notice engine misfires. I seem to have a couple of stutters at at around 4000 revs on harsh acceleration. You videos are fab thank you for all your hard work. ?
Good question but not sure if misfiring can be the cause of those stutters. I get the stutters on hard acceleration too. Honestly I think it can be lag. but I do know it’s not bad to change spark plugs. They are very important and with enough carbon build up they can go bad.
@@astritmelenica876 Thank you very much for your reply. I replaced the spark plugs with bosh iridium's and it has in fact sorted it out. It is like a new engine. I hope this is useful to you in the future.
My 2012 3.2 litre at 97 000km (60 000 miles) stutters occasionally too. Sometimes throws up a check engine light. Took it to the local dealer who after running a code check, said it MIGHT be a faulty exhaust gas sensor occasionally sending wrong information to the CPU.. he wasn't sure so we haven't done anything about it. New plugs due next week thanks to this video, perhaps that will make a difference.
Coil packs are held in by a boat with a 8mm hex head, not 9mm.
I know I can get it at the dealership but I am trying to NOT pay dealership prices for a spark plug tune up coil kit..any ideas?
You can order a combo coil-pack and spark plug tuneup kit from FCP Euro. Have your 6 digit chassis number handy (last 6 digits of VIN)
I bought NGK spark plugs. As long as they are in spec, you don't have to use dealership parts.
Are these NGK?
Can you use platinum plugs?in 05 xc90 t6?should the plugs be gaped,if using platinum?
No need I think. I used laser iridium on my 09' XC60 T6 (NGK)
Tighten by hand is not such a good idea aluminium heads are easy to strip ,use a torque wrench or tighten with the extension only as much as you can then give half a turn with the ratchet.
DO you happen to know the torque specs?
A bit vague "as much as you can". See John Wood question above.
Yes definitely with a torque wrench for aluminium. NGK specifies 25-30 Nm for this size thread. They are 14mm threads.
Edit: See here: www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/qa/q18/index.html
If you don't have a torque wrench, when the plug "hits the bottom", you'll feel resistance to turning as the aluminum crush washer starts to be flattened. You're ~1/2 turn from done. When completely crushed, you'll feel increased resistance to turning. That is the signal to stop....it's done. Any further turning-force can strip the head's delicate aluminum threads, so don't go there!!!!
Very accurate description. Thx
Thanks for the video - was very helpful to me!
My T6 runs on LPG, so I need different spark plugs probably ?
Ni idea
2:48. It's not 5/8 socket. It's a 16mm socket. I just did this.
5/8 is a tighter fit! The difference is only 0.125 mm so no big deal...
I've owned my vehicle for 5y (50K mi) and have yet to swap the spark plugs. No issues but last summer I had to have the radiator fan replaced due to overheating and the mechanics recommended I change the spark plugs and put a new timing belt in. I elected to wait and budget. Now a year later I have some time this week and decide to swap out the plugs. I grab 6 Autolite XP5325 plugs and install them as seen in your video. After starting the engine my dash has a check engine light, a rough idle, and says to shift to lower gear or slow down. The engine then shut itself off.
Troubleshooting:
- I put the old plugs back. Same result.
- I doublechecked the tightness of seals. Same result.
I did not use a gap tool.
What I thought was a simple maintenance has now become a major problem. What can I do other than have it towed to my shop? What do you think is going on?
Thanks in advance for your help.
did you get your coils mixed up? I number mine to avoid this
what ended up breaking? you drop some stuff into the engine?
D5 Rdesing diésel ...2012...???
На 3.2 я ставлю свечи ленд ровер и прекрасно и фильтр поставил на акпп от фирмы паркер ну дешевой за 600 руб возле радиатора как на драйве советуют уже 3 года стоит фильтр
Can I someone point out where the fuel injectors are?
The fuel rail is just infront (towards the front of the car) of the engine and just backward of the intake manifold (the black thing at the front which divides into 6 (for 6 cylinders). The fuel injectors should be under there.
You can see the fuel rail at 4:04 of the video. It is silver'ish aluminum in color. If you follow the wire connectors in front of the oil cap...those are the fuel injectors.
There are some things you should never use power tools on, and spark plugs on aluminium cylinder heads is one.
Its just far too easy to damage the threads and then the consequences are just too high. 🇦🇺
Hey man do u know how many i need for v70 2009
What engine?
@@volvosweden thanks for the respond man.
2.0 benzin etanol
I guess it 4 cylinder. So 4
Thanks alot man i will open it tomorrow
where can u go on the internet to order new spark plugs AND coils for a 2006 S 80?.. I suppose I am looking for a spark plug tune up kit huh?
Fcpeuro.com
Ipdusa.com
Eeuroparts.com
+rupert ross Get a set of spark plugs at any of your local auto spare parts shops not the Volvo dealer. GIve them the engine details and they should know what type. I wouldn't bother changing coils until they start to give trouble .. probably a waste of money to do so before.
Michael Peck how do you know when coils start to give trouble?
@@PFGym5 it will throw a check engine misfire code
Supercheap auto if you live in Australia.
Thank you!
Interesting.... FoMoCo spark plugs! It's a ford engine?
Ford platform. So yes.
Фомоко да точно
Свечи промыть в ржавчина преобразователь держу 3 часа и чистая чистая становица и можно еще 2 года использовать и опять преобразовательржавчина и юеленькая свечКа становица как новенькая и еще два года катайся