I just had one come in. I do not know the serial number. I will get the endoscope in there this week to see if there are any labels left. It does not have any accessories or even the machines on it. So it is missing that style of bridge. Finger board is bent but the neck looks to be fairly straight. Great video and thank you for sharing.
thank u 'sew' much!!! i have #282 and lately the fingerboard/neck is buzzing/vibrating...your pics of the half round and screw studs help me 'sew' much...i am doing research before taking the fingerboard off to c whatz goin on... itz my main gigging bass... bassicness, steve
Frankly, it’s surprising that as many as 200 of these would have survived the 1940s, never mind the rest of the 20th century, when you think about WW II demand pressure on scrap aluminum for military aircraft in particular. There’s probably more than enough aluminum in one of these when reworked to skin a whole bomber wing.
I would bring it to your local luthier for restoration. The original bridges are hard to find. You might have to build one that replicates the original.
Great video.Im hoping to find someone who has one with the original bridge and can give the dimensions ,so I can get a close estimate as to how much to cut and shape my new bridge. I bought one without a bridge. Ordered a new adjustable wood bridge but thinking it's too narrow at the base and too tall even once it's cut and shaped.My research tells me the Alcoa is a 4/4 ,not a 3/4. The replacement bridge is 3" at center measuring from outer edge of each post. 7.5 inches tall ,almost 6" wide at bottom from outer edge of each post and 4.25 wide at the top.
Michael Carvale the headstock is aluminum with a piece of maple where it joins the neck. It’s put there for the pressure it receives when under tension (5m 5s) Thanks for watching!
How would I restore the paint on one of these? Or at least strip the paint to get that clean aluminum mirror look? The one I have looks like someone tried to strip and repaint it themselves
Terrific video! And very useful. Almost all of them have that issue of the forward bow and the gap between the fingerboard and neck shell. I don't know for certain but my guess is from greater tension from steel strings which were not available when they were made. Another common issue is the welds breaking on those internal screw bosses which can cause a bad rattle. Under the chalk inside the neck shell there's usually an inked number - generally but not always matches the inked number in the body. There's another number stamped with a punch inside the pegbox. The bridge is a later UK made Selmer. There was a similar US made one by Slowey. Amazing how much the value has gone up on these recently. They used to be cheap. I've seen a number with asking prices of over $10K - though the most I know of one actually selling for is $6K (of course, I can be unaware of others selling for more).
neat piece of history. Nice work on the restoration!
I just had one come in. I do not know the serial number. I will get the endoscope in there this week to see if there are any labels left. It does not have any accessories or even the machines on it. So it is missing that style of bridge. Finger board is bent but the neck looks to be fairly straight. Great video and thank you for sharing.
thank u 'sew' much!!! i have #282 and lately the fingerboard/neck is buzzing/vibrating...your pics of the half round and screw studs help me 'sew' much...i am doing research before taking the fingerboard off to c whatz goin on...
itz my main gigging bass... bassicness, steve
Frankly, it’s surprising that as many as 200 of these would have survived the 1940s, never mind the rest of the 20th century, when you think about WW II demand pressure on scrap aluminum for military aircraft in particular. There’s probably more than enough aluminum in one of these when reworked to skin a whole bomber wing.
Great job Johnny! I have an Alcoa also and am wondering what strings you installed post restoration. Thanks.
I believe I used D’Adarrio Helicore-Hybrids.
Like to hear that bass with some vintage gut strings on it.
MORE?!?!?!?!
Cool! A "tin lizzy" bass! Does that thing have a bass bar? If yes, is it wood or aluminum?
I believe it had a soundpost but didn’t have a bass bar.
I have an aluminum bass #526 but the paint work is really bad and the original bridge is missing. I don’t know too much about it.
I would bring it to your local luthier for restoration. The original bridges are hard to find. You might have to build one that replicates the original.
Thanks for the recommendation bro!! I’ll see what I can do 😉
Great video.Im hoping to find someone who has one with the original bridge and can give the dimensions ,so I can get a close estimate as to how much to cut and shape my new bridge.
I bought one without a bridge.
Ordered a new adjustable wood bridge but thinking it's too narrow at the base and too tall even once it's cut and shaped.My research tells me the Alcoa is a 4/4 ,not a 3/4.
The replacement bridge is 3" at center measuring from outer edge of each post.
7.5 inches tall ,almost 6" wide at bottom from outer edge of each post and 4.25 wide at the top.
Is the headstock wood?
Michael Carvale the headstock is aluminum with a piece of maple where it joins the neck. It’s put there for the pressure it receives when under tension (5m 5s) Thanks for watching!
How would I restore the paint on one of these? Or at least strip the paint to get that clean aluminum mirror look? The one I have looks like someone tried to strip and repaint it themselves
mylo carter I would reconsider stripping the paint. The value will go down significantly if your ok with that. They are worth a lot of money.
@@johnnydrum5 you're right I wouldnt want to lower its value. Thank you!
mylo carter if you have any other questions in regards to restoration of this bass, please do not hesitate to ask 🤘🏼
Neeto!
You look like the Puerto Rican Chris Cornell
😂😂😂 I’m a pizza-rican!
#56 would be early 1930 - possibly even late 1929.
Terrific video! And very useful. Almost all of them have that issue of the forward bow and the gap between the fingerboard and neck shell. I don't know for certain but my guess is from greater tension from steel strings which were not available when they were made. Another common issue is the welds breaking on those internal screw bosses which can cause a bad rattle. Under the chalk inside the neck shell there's usually an inked number - generally but not always matches the inked number in the body. There's another number stamped with a punch inside the pegbox. The bridge is a later UK made Selmer. There was a similar US made one by Slowey. Amazing how much the value has gone up on these recently. They used to be cheap. I've seen a number with asking prices of over $10K - though the most I know of one actually selling for is $6K (of course, I can be unaware of others selling for more).
Hey man where do you live and i need some help with an aluminum double bass
I work out of Naperville Illinois.
@@johnnydrum5 ok man apreciate it i found an aluminum welder that might be able too help here in california