Crankshaft Position Sensor Replace on 4.0 Jeep Grand Cherokee 1998-2004
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- All the speed tips needed for this repair. Commonly regarded as a lengthy process I will show you what I found from forums and personal experience to make it as easy as possible for this driveway repair. Feel free to put other tips or tricks in the comments below.
I am doing this on a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 but this should be the same/similar for 98-04.
#Jeep #Jeepgrandcherokee #crankshaft #positionsensor #drivewayrepair #fastrepair #easyrepair
This is the only video on this subject that explains some subtle, conceptual aspects of the job that are not clearly explained in other, more-explicit hands-on type videos. It helped a lot. Thanks.
Thank you, I spent hours trying to find all the info myself so just trying to make it easier for the next guy
Ñññppppppp😊
Very helpful video. Much thanks! I was able to do the entire job myself with no other assistance in about 2 hrs. Used almost the same exact tools you suggested. It is very doable. I would say the hardest part is reinstalling the new sensor into the hole. It is essentially doing it blind and by feel only…but doable.
When I first watched the video, I didn’t understand what the zip tie / para chord was meant for. The purpose is to help hold one of the ends to assist with detaching the electrical harness. Hope this helps others. I actually didn’t need to use it for my instance.
The local Jeep dealer was charging over $200 for the mopar part (Dec 2023 in Connecticut). I did a bunch of research and people have said the second best option is the Napa Echlin brand. Got for $45. Will update this post if it fails. Had 183K on my Jeep when the OEM sensor started to fail.
Excellent, thank you very much for watching. I am very curious about your experience with that sensor as well. I'd love for people to not have to spend 200+ on a sensor so I hope it works out well.
great tutorial on fixing my crankshaft position sensor on my 04 Grand Cherokee. Great tips, all were very helpful. you explained everything exactly with what you need to do the job. Finished the job in about 2 hours. Hardest part of the job is lining up the hole to thread the new sensor in. Only tip I can add is use a flexible screwdriver for the screw behind the plastic vent. It was real easy with that tool. the stubby screwdriver is a pain to turn. Thank you again for the Video. Listen to this guy, hes a tremendous help.
I have a 2000 Grand Cherokee and I had to do the same repair. I found your video to be very informative. Thank you for the tips and helpful knowledge. You Rock!!!!
I have a 2000 gc jeep also. My car runs GREAT (if it starts) but the electrical bonks out...is this the problem you had? I need a "sensor" told by the tow operator. I'm female and not good in any of this :) Appreciate your idea.
Sir you are a life saver. I recently experienced the same problem with my 2003 Jeep Cherokee and I viewed your video. Everything you said was dead on point. I replaced the sensor in about two hours and I know I saved a great deal of money. Thanks for putting time in to make this video.
Just did this today on my 2003 GC. Pain in the backside, and also dropped the original bolt for the sensor. So, had to go grab a replacement. 1/4-20 with 10mm head seemed to work. Did it myself without help and used the access panel method, along with crawling on top of the engine. I can see where skinny arms would be beneficial. Mine are not, and I could barely get in there. Also used the rope trick to pull the new cable around the back of the engine. If there is a next time I might try dropping the trans cross member.. This post and several others had good advice.
Thank you!!! I was all over the place trying to find a good walk through this helped a lot and yes the mopar part is needed.
But I came across I think it was a mopar site It had like a blue colored logo. Jeep owners were stating how many miles they get with the mopar part a few years vs maybe 100 miles. Someone commented on the transmission being bad and at least three owner's quoted Over 200k mikes one was 400 k but stated he added a **trans mission cooler to help reduce the heat. Gotta look out for that too. The problem being the heat destroying the sensor. I only have the new mopar crank shaft sensor coming. Next is the Trans governor pressure sensor and solenoid , filter and gasket set. That was mentioned it usually needs to be done when you have heat issues. Other wise fresh trans fluid changes should give trouble free issues.
Thanks! I was really close to paying to get it done, found your video and it only took me about 2 hours by myself. Good looking out and great advice. Thanks again
Sure thing, thanks for watching!
Thank you Sir am going to do this tomorrow.. am glad you provided this info.. God Bless
Before watch this video, I purchased a crankshaft sensor from 1aauto… let’s see how this one goes… thanks for putting this video together
Many thanks for the video bro my Jeep is doing the same thing. I am going to replace that sensor thanks for giving me the confidence to do it my self. Again thanks.
I replaced the CPS on my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo today. I watched this video and few others before doing the work. I used a 18 inch long extension and universal joint with the 1/4 rachet and 11 inch socket. I did the work from under the Jeep and under the hood. It took me about 30 mins to remove the old sensor and install the new one. Even though have small hands and skinny arms it was still a lot of work trying to get the right position with the hands and arms.
Nice work, it's possible to get creative like that for sure if you got the tools and the technique. Have a good one
I've owned a few jeeps in my lifetime and replaced about 8 cps sensors. I've always just done it from above. A long extension, a swivel and electrical tape so the swivel isn't loose. I would also glue a magnet into the socket so the bolt held while getting it into position to tighten. Used to take me 15 mins to do 👍🏻
Thanks. I'll keep working on this Jeep Grand Junkokee. Appreciate the tip.
Wow and wow you really did this the hard way, it can totally replaced in a 1998 just by going under the hood. No interior dismantling at all, wow Under the hood and under the under carriage below. 30 minute job with 3 max tools.
Nice, you should throw a video together, not sure everyone is going to have the ability to reach back there but you can tell people what tools to get if your using something unique. Always strange to get the experts watching tutorials but hey thanks for a view, have a good one
I have a 98 Laredo would this work?
Yup. Right from the top. 2 bolts on using an by extension, swivel and my some tape
Very happy if this works, however my understanding is that ’99-04 are different from previous models.
I did it from under the car, wasn't to hard to do, I even made my girlfriend do it once too @@picklesgarage
great video....just did the same repair along with cam sensor and TP sensor last weekend. About 2 hours total.
And did I fix it?
My 2004 jeep gave aq p0320 code but it wasn't the problem I tapped the cam sensor it fired rite up. I replaced cam sensor so far so good.
I've never had an issue with any sensors on my 01 wj for 7 years. my jeep has almost a half a million miles on it. And now the motor finally went ... I'm doing a motor swap with a motor with less miles on it. I'm almost to the block now stripping the old engine down and I'm about at that sensor around the bell housing. Except i can get to that sensor from under the hood now! As I put the new motor in I'll be replacing all the sensors so any tips can and will be helpful! Thanks for the video.
You're doing so good in the beginning of this video LOL
Another great video
@teddiazjr.6223 I appreciate it and thanks for watching!
This is only video I seen that was very detailed but I got a question you see the second line coming from the v
Valve cover I believe it’s a
Vacuum line where do it go because I got three line I need help with for placement ik a lot of times you can look at the same engine n tell
@diuntrejohnson9417 Hey, so I think you are referring to the vacuum line in the back closest to the firewall right? So that connects back behind the throttle body on the intake manifold. If you are looking at the throttle body from the driverside fender it is at the bottom right like this ■. (The period is the connection point). You can also find the brake booster vacuum line and again looking from the driver side of the car it is to the immediate left. It's in-between the two sensors on the throttle body itself. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Friend, what brand of sensors do you use? Here in the USA?
So you will want to get a MOPAR brand part for this. It is the sensor made from essentially jeep. There's a few vendors that do sell mopar parts, seems like Amazon might have some. Unfortunetly this was awhile back so it doesn't look like the website I bought mine from has them anymore. MOPAR has their own website as well. It will be the more expensive ones, roughly 130-150 its the $50 and under ones you want to stay away from.
Wow, so much work. How about this as a thought. By the time you tear your dash up...I'm driving down the road. If your vehicle starts drive it up on ramps. Use the swivel piece on your extension plus "wobble" extension should only need 2 "wobblers" use approxiamately 2.5 feet, yes feet worth of extensions to get to that bolt. Like you said when removing pull up, give it a 90° turn then finish removing. Unplug. To install install sensor first, put bolt in use a little tape strong enough to "hold" the bolt. Tighten bolt, plug back into harness off and away you go. That simple. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE A DARN THING!!!. Reconnect battery, drive off the ramps.
Not bad, there's other videos like that, though at the time I made this they weren't very helpful, most recommended a lift. Some people may find this easier some people may find mine easier, hell maybe someone goes the route the one guy suggested and cuts a big hole in their floor. If you get the chance make a vid always more than one way to fix something and save money doing it.
My Jeep was nothing like the videos. Couldn’t reach from underneath. No room to grab it from the top. Used screwdriver to get it started, but if you don’t rotate towards you, it won’t come out. Used a bent wire hanger to lift it the rest of the way. Pain in the @ss. Got it done by myself.🤬
It set on flywheel and for clearance it comes with paper tap to set on flywheel and that's your preset gap make sure you tighten your bolt down . And easier doing it form under neath truck .
We're doing this in the winter. Just have to get through it.
Hi! I'm experiencing your same problem and I think your video can be the answer for part of my problem. I have a WJ 2004 4.0 and it happend to stall when I was driving in very hot days. I got these Codes: P0320, P1490 and P1489. The last 2 codes a releated to the Fan Relays which were fine. My next move will be changing the Crankshaft and Camshaft sensor but I still have a little doubt...all this occured since i changed the intake...I have your same K&N and it feels like i lost power because it sucks a lot of hot air coming from the engine. Did you ever experienced anything like this? mostly on hot days?
Hey, so my jeep had a few problems when I first I got it, such as a massive split in the origional intake so yes my crankshaft issue did occur after I upgraded my intake. I will say it's possible the engine would now run a little hotter but I think it would be marginal. More likely than not it's just old and the aftermarket parts don't last long except for the unfortuently more expensive mopar part.I live in a fairly hot area so I saw the issue occurring more so just went the jeep got to operating temp which happened at any point in the day at various Temps. I could make it about 5-10 min away and then it would die and throw various codes similar to yours. Stalling I noticed mostly with the crankshaft but if you check out my camshaft video you'll see it's worth it to do both as mentioned. Thanks for watching and I hope this helps
@techu87 And also if it helps I have had 0 issues since I fixed this. My first go around I bought cheap parts both lasted a few weeks and then I replaced with the expensive stuff when these two videos came out and it 100% solved my problem even with the same intake. If you are running hot and you know the fan is working it might be worth going thru the thermostat and sending unit. You can reduce temp on the therm or get a high flow one. I got a noticeable increase in power with my K & N but again I had a massive air leak on the stock one haha.
The glue on the small inside panel near the gas pedal is to keep exhaust fumes from getting inside the vehicle and killing you or making you sick. You did not explain any testing on an Oscilloscope to be sure this part is bad or you are just making a guess. You are correct to only buy OEM part for this job, there are aftermarket parts that will tell the computer you have misfires but the engine does not misfire that you can actually feel and your check engine light will flash. You also did not explain that the piece of felt is on the new part and how to make sure the flywheel is properly aligned before installing the new sensor until it touches the flywheel on a solid piece of metal, not at the window location as the felt is a spacer that may get knocked off later, that is the proper way to install it and give it the proper air gap. Thanks for the tips.
Exactly
Does the check engine light always go out when these go out? My 2001 WJ will have a no start with no lights. I tapped the connection on pcm and after about 15 min it cranked right up. Has only done this twice and didn’t do it for two weeks after the first time? Do you still think this is going to be my problem?
For me I did regularly have the check engine light come on, I have a code reader and the strange thing was I didn't always get the same code and in fact I got different codes after the first replace with a non Mopar part. I will say I never really experienced the problem from a cold start it was always after the engine had been running for a bit, unless I am misunderstanding are you saying you are unable to start it cold? You might have an electrical issue elsewhere. Main thing to remember if it is the crankshaft position sensors is that it's the computers way of preventing damage that it thinks might be happening so if it's faulty it needs to send the bad signal to the computer which then goes into a sort of self preservation mode and the jeep will shut off for awhile and not be able to start but It never was an issue for me where it just wouldn't start after sitting for awhile though some people's experiences have been different. Hope this helps.
Yea this definitely added a lot of time to the job. After i saw where it was located it took me about 10 minutes without removing anything besides the sensor
Put a video together. A lot of people claim this and then they have a special tool, 4 feet of extensions or skinny arms. There's always different ways to do things but this is the way most people would be able to without laying on top of the block or lifting it 3 feet in the air. Nothing wrong with improving the way things are done that's why I made this, if you found a better way the average person can do it show people, that's what it's all about. Thanks for watching anyway
@@picklesgarage 12mm ,4” extension, u-joint, 12” extension to a ratchet. for the Laredo you just run up the side of the trans reach from the front side of the bellhousing and take it out pop the new one in use a light magnet to set the screw back and tighten it down. Did it in my driveway thats literally all rocks no lifts or ramps needed. Im not a videographer so ill leave it as a comment. Mine went nice and simple, busted some knuckles but fairly straight forward
Use one of the longest extensions and a swibble and a a 11mm from behind the transmission you can locate the screw it will be on the top left using a light will help alot easier than taking everything apart 1st about a hour second 30 minutes it was actually harder getting the sensor in the hole again
Yep, just did this two days ago for the second time. The extension with the wibble is crucial. Universal socket adapters are too loose. Got it down to 20 minutes. Also, watch out for the bolt above the topmost bolt on the sensor. I tried for a while to seat the socket on it lol.
It's really hard by your self but just take your time.go ahead and spend the money.turn key and drive.
The have magnetic flex tools extention. With a flex magnetic led grabber flex tool to grab and twisted...n pull out..
You. Get a extention for the wiring harnest to either reroute easy reach.get cutting tool hole saw or to make the hole wider to fit your hand
..
no duct tape, use orings on the swivel
If you have a scope, you can see the difference in the signals between the Mopar cleaner signal and aftermarket not as nice signal. other manufactures use different software and signal generators therefor much more forgiving.
Use a Mopar sensor. I had two different aftermarket sensors fail within a few months.
Yeah, aftermarket has not figured out how to make this sensor. Tough to go thru this repair twice worse a third, thanks for watching.
difficult to find the mopar part, was just at jeep dealer today and couldn't locate it, didn't know when it would be back in stock...... found a mopar one for $128, ordered to keep as spare.... had one installed 8 years ago and still ok. Genuine Chrysler 4897321AA Crankshaft Position Sensor
So it will throw a code? I'm having an issue with mine not starting at all. The lights, radio and everything come on, but when I turn the key it does nothing. I thought at first it was the neutral safety switch, but it won't start in neutral either. So figured it may be the crank sensor, but not getting a code
It usually throws a waterfall of codes because it tries to predict why the crankshaft is out of sync. I found mind was temp related so it ran perfect until it got to operating temp then id get some codes everytime as well as random ones some of the time. To be honest yours sort of sound like a bad ground. The negative cable on these frey really easy and it only takes a couple copper strands to come off before you get some power but not enough to start. There's been a lot of weird symptoms with these so it's not impossible this is your issue but because it's a handful of a repair I'd check what kind of power you are getting to the starter and check the condition of all the cables. Could be damaged or the contact is corroded. Hope this helps, thanks for watching
@@picklesgarage Dude really appreciate the quick response! Yeah also was thinking the ignition switch?
@12firehose Sure thing. Could be, alot of the time when those stop working it loses its spring. So key will travel all the way and not bounce back. Still possible it's a connection to that but just something to keep in mind. When I'm unsure I just replace everything I can and justify that it's a preventive fix but it's hard to advise that haha.
@@picklesgarage Appreciate it man! 🤙🏼 Yeah it's basically a trial and error at this point. I'll def check the wires. Thanks again, and great video!
@@12firehose I appreciate it, good luck to ya
Exactly the same problem, because I feel calm for you, it makes me very nervous if I turn off the engine while the vehicle is running
I bought a crankshat position without the spacer paper i don't know if that will be aproblem ??
Unfortunetly it likely will be a problem. I try to stress that this isnone of those repairs you want to only do once so it's best to use the mopar part which will have the paper
Drop the transmission cross member go in through the back literally 25 ish minutes
Thanks for that tip,Im going with your shortcut
Yup. That's the way I did it 👍🏻
Make the hole bigger
Yeah I had mine replaced and what happened to mine is the same thing. It would die, then be able to start, drive a mile then die again, drive 500 feet die. I had it replaced a few months ago and it worked fine, now when it dies, it won't start right away. I'm guessing that the mechanic used this cheap part as well.
Yep, its unfortunate how the same problem acts so differently with certain brand parts. Would even throw new codes some that popped up every time others occastionaly. Took a lot of research but yeah sounds like they used an off brand part. Got my mopar part at Morris 4x4 and haven't had issues since. Good luck man
Me too ! The exact same thing!! I been down since October..just put in a crank sensor and now it won't crank at all. Had started backfiring before put sensor in . So irritating.. maybe it's a bad sensor.. that's just my luck..
@@tammysteele250 hopefully you didn't remove the felt piece on the end of it, because that's a gauge so it won't hit,and it can come off when you finally start driving it, but it might stay on,but if you remove it,then that the problem. Or you didn't tighten all the way. Hopefully you disconnected the battery and put it back on, it might needed to be reset, good luck. Mines still good (knock on wood )
@@joshmccabe477 yes I disconnected the battery.. that is something I've gotten use to doing since I got it 2yrs ago cause I thought that the radio was draining my battery but since it's been broke down I have had radio unplugged and some thing is still dealing rhe battery . I know it's not good to keep doing that..but until I come Across what it is il have too until I figure it out.. lol
Crankshaft Sensor n Cam sensor are powered by the same wire Cam sensor is responsible for the fuel sync Crankshaft sensor is responsible for spark timing.if u lose one the other quits to save your engine
Boys and girls dont forget that paper spacer !!!!
Another cheaper RELIABLE option is NGK/NTK brand.
To all 2002 grandcherokee owners check behind the starter before you do anything
My problem was a dirty connector going to crank sensor. I sprayed it with c r c cleaner that fixed it. Did not need sensor. Mine is a 2004 4.0 engine.
What do I check for behind the starter? I'm having p0320 code on my jeep indicating that it's either the crank or camshaft sensor or maybe both
@@gilbertmata7951 I am gettin that too.did u fix it?
@@mrno3525 yes I did it was the crank shaft sensor I only had to replace
@@gilbertmata7951 ook thanks
what does this do?
So the crankshaft runs along the length of the engine and it is what the piston rods are connected to. The sensor tells the cars "computer" the position of the crankshaft and therefore which cylinders should be firing and whatnot. When the sensor is bad its giving the wrong info so the engine reacts differently to try to correct what it thinks is happening most often in shutting the car off completely to avoid further damage. So you might have a completely functional engine but the computer thinks something is majorly wrong.
I'm about to try this on a 2004. If this don't work, I'm burning this POS....
Don't blame you. Make sure it's the mopar part to only do it once, trust me after market on these are junk. Good luck and thanks for watching
@@picklesgarage I didn't have the money for name brand, how long you thing the others hold out for?
@jamesstoy8967 Mine lasted about 2 weeks, I have heard 2 months and I have heard people having no problems. There's just a lot of duds but hopfully not all
@@picklesgarage I hope at least a few months. It looks like you got a WJ also. The one I'm working on is my Mawmaw's. 87K, garage kept, never been in mud.
So far the water pump, rear brake calipers, coil pack, and spark plugs have all failed. The rear axle and T case are both going out and something else that I can't remember. This thing is a pile of trash!
@jamesstoy8967 Yeah I'm at about 166k. I like the thing but there's a reason I'm able to pump out new repair videos on it pretty regularly. They messed up with the sensors on these, mechanically I've been fine outside the trans but expected with the miles, just everything electrical goes. If this doesn't fix it try the camshaft sensor, 5 min job about a 50 buck part but might find cheaper.
Be smart and just cut the small plastic vent off under the dash instead of struggling with a stubby screw driver 💁🏽♂️
It's the only way
Using a 1/4” ratchet and extension with a Philips head worked for me.
No hay explicación en español
WOW ....
that's way more work doing it that way
I do it in 30 minutes going from the bottom way faster way easier
Yeah I have heard of some people using a ton of extentions to get there and having to use a lift to get a good angle on it. I worried it would be a two person job trying to line everything up but hey maybe you can throw a video together and help people with some alternatives. Thanks for watching
I can change a crank sensor on my 4.0 grand cherokee in 15 minutes, this video is drama queen
Nice, you should post a video of you doing it in 15 min, might help some people out who also took some more time with it. I guess either way though this video wasnt for you if you both know how to do it and can do it faster than anyone else. Have a good one
@@picklesgarage had mouse problems in the garage a few years ago, i replaced 4 crank sensors on my Grand Cherokee in 6 days, my for arms are skinny, i just cram my arm between back of valve cover and fire wall and do it, hurts a little but just do it anyway, some people have thick fore arms and cant do it that way
Where are you Steven
Hablas mucho no te dejan hablar en tu casa hablas demasiadi compa
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You literally talk alot........ just do the damn video
Haha, first vid I ever did trying to explain a difficult problem with little other info out there at the time to help people out, hope you trudged thru to get the answer you needed anyway man.
That’s what she said.