Best one I've seen yet. your first comment about not setting TDC first is the best part! If you also mentioned "rotating this sensor will NOT change ignition timing" it would be absolutely perfect.
Thank you. If I understand you correctly, the ignition timing is managed by the ECU, so rotating the sensor will not adjust the timing like an old distributor. However rotating it too far will cause the ECU to throw a code.
@@theshop392 sometimes they'll throw a code but usually they just don't run when ya do that. the distributor 4.0s act almost the same except you get ignition breakup at idle or WOT depending on which direction it gets rotated before it completely dies and more often than not, also no codes. but still, They're all crank fired ignition where the ECU/PCM directly pulses the coil for timing control since 1987 and the ONLY way to change baseline ignition timing on these is to physically move the crank sensor in reference to the flywheel. The earliest ones (87-90) had knock controlled spark advance and the ignition system was derived from the Renault Alpine GTA. They were very much ahead of their time.
Thanks for the refresher. I have performed these steps and wanted to watch your video just to make sure I did the right steps and didn't forget anything. Thanks
@@theshop392 How can you tell if a Cam Synchronizer is malfunctioning? Mine makes like a clock ticking sound, is that normal? I greatly appreciate your videos
If the Jeep is anything like a small block Chevy, you can lower the shaft until the gears align and it’s pointing in the correct position. Then to get the oil pump slot to line up, you just turn the engine over by hand and it will drop into the slot. Even if the pump slot isn’t aligned, the gears are meshed and it will keep the timing correct as you turn it over to align the pump slot. Easier than fiddling with a screw driver trying to get it just right. Thanks for the video!
This is a very good video, it's especially helpful that you refer to the service manual as they are difficult to find. I was actually on here looking for a service manual and found your video instead. It's a good substitute.
This helped so much in so happy I found this video I did a motor swap and it wasn’t firing and back firing through the intake thank you so much for the info very helpful
I had to remove my alternator and bracket to get my finger into #1 spark plug hole. Had my son feel for pressure while I got under the jeep and turned the crank to TDC. Magic. Then, my Cam Sensor oil slot was almost to 12, more around 11:30 position. Found out my 'new' cam sensor was faulty, but worked good enough to get going. My TopDon 600s scanner was able to show me cam sensor degree readout. Every time I got to near '0', it would go straight up to 65,000 on the graph. I just lived with a 1.5 degree setting and was done. I was surprised my scanner did the cam degree thing. Bonus. Very sensitive to get the reading right, but 'graphing' the cam degree readout really helped. Thank you for this video, it gave me the confidence to do it myself instead of dragging the jeep downtown. I also did the Viper Coil mod too. That was a story in itself. Have a great day, thank you.
We are glad that the video was helpful. Aligning the oil pump slot is a bit tricky. Unfortunately my scanner is not able to give the degree readout but that is helpful in making sure you have the right teeth.
@@theshop392 I know we're all on a budget, that's why i got the 600s on sale at amazon. I'm not a salesman for them or amazon. I just needed a cost effective scan tool and that one does a lot of various tests and resets. Again, thanks and you have a great day !
What year jeep do you have? My 01 wj wouldnt work with the topdon 600, or xtool d7 not even a snap on scanner was able to connect to correctly adjust the sync for this repair
You are the man. Thank you for the video. I just bought a 2005 unlimited. I'm getting the POO16 code. So on Saturday I'm going to go through everything to make sure it's all at TDC before I purchase replacement sensors.
Do you know if the 05 has the opda (large diameter oil pump drive). If it does I would recommend replacing the cam position sensor before you replace the whole opda. My 06 wrangler threw a similar code and I had to replace the sensor, no need to pull out the opda. I couldn't get an original sensor and the aftermarket one did not work correctly untill I put a washer under the sensor
@@theshop392 Yes it does have the larger (new style) OPDA. I used to own a 2006 unlimited that I had bought a new and drove it for 11 years. I only had to replace it on that once. This new Jeep appears to have a newer OPDA. So I'm going to need to get it to top dead center to verify that whoever installed Did it, put it back correctly.
@@theshop392 Yes it was running. It still is. I just ran it yesterday at highway speed for about 20 minutes. Everything seems completely normal. Just has the CEL light and that code. Since I just purchased it I don't really have any history so I'm starting from scratch on this one. It also has 198k miles.
Great video. I'm replacing my OPDA using techniques from other videos. Needless to say I did it incorrectly. Your two videos on this have made it extremely clear what I did wrong and how to get it right. Thanks so much for your videos.
I followed another video last year for this exact procedure only they never commented on the oil pump slot needing to be adjusted so when I slid the sensor down it wasn't perfectly facing the back straight and I couldn't figure out why. I think that's why it started throwing codes again. At least now I think I know what the problem is. Thank you for this video.
Thank you for the feedback. The oil pump slot should not affect the sensor facing backwards, it would prevent the sensor from fully seating to the block. If your sensor is fully seated on the block and not facing the right direction it is likely off by one tooth, or start installing the sensor at a different orientation OR your timing is not at TDC and your cam needs to rotate, typically a stretched chain where you miss the timing mark and rotate the crank in the wrong direction, the stretched chain does not rotate the camshaft and your timing is now incorrect. Rather rotate the crank another two full revolutions than turn it the wrong direction.
Best one I've seen yet.
your first comment about not setting TDC first is the best part!
If you also mentioned "rotating this sensor will NOT change ignition timing" it would be absolutely perfect.
Thank you. If I understand you correctly, the ignition timing is managed by the ECU, so rotating the sensor will not adjust the timing like an old distributor. However rotating it too far will cause the ECU to throw a code.
@@theshop392 sometimes they'll throw a code but usually they just don't run when ya do that.
the distributor 4.0s act almost the same except you get ignition breakup at idle or WOT depending on which direction it gets rotated before it completely dies and more often than not, also no codes.
but still, They're all crank fired ignition where the ECU/PCM directly pulses the coil for timing control since 1987 and the ONLY way to change baseline ignition timing on these is to physically move the crank sensor in reference to the flywheel.
The earliest ones (87-90) had knock controlled spark advance and the ignition system was derived from the Renault Alpine GTA. They were very much ahead of their time.
Thanks for the refresher. I have performed these steps and wanted to watch your video just to make sure I did the right steps and didn't forget anything. Thanks
Glad to hear that you got it working!
This is the best video I've seen for the cam sensor syncronization, I like you refer to the Service Manual procedures. Thank you for sharing!
Glad it was helpful to you. Yes it's always best to work straight from the Service Manual
@@theshop392 How can you tell if a Cam Synchronizer is malfunctioning? Mine makes like a clock ticking sound, is that normal? I greatly appreciate your videos
@@Ache87 Mine does not tick. I suggest you open in and look for contact in the window, also check the gear for damage
If the Jeep is anything like a small block Chevy, you can lower the shaft until the gears align and it’s pointing in the correct position. Then to get the oil pump slot to line up, you just turn the engine over by hand and it will drop into the slot. Even if the pump slot isn’t aligned, the gears are meshed and it will keep the timing correct as you turn it over to align the pump slot. Easier than fiddling with a screw driver trying to get it just right.
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for sharing that idea! We certainly will try it on the next build!
This is a very good video, it's especially helpful that you refer to the service manual as they are difficult to find. I was actually on here looking for a service manual and found your video instead. It's a good substitute.
Glad the video was useful!
This helped so much in so happy I found this video I did a motor swap and it wasn’t firing and back firing through the intake thank you so much for the info very helpful
Glad it helped you out!
I had to remove my alternator and bracket to get my finger into #1 spark plug hole. Had my son feel for pressure while I got under the jeep and turned the crank to TDC. Magic. Then, my Cam Sensor oil slot was almost to 12, more around 11:30 position. Found out my 'new' cam sensor was faulty, but worked good enough to get going. My TopDon 600s scanner was able to show me cam sensor degree readout. Every time I got to near '0', it would go straight up to 65,000 on the graph. I just lived with a 1.5 degree setting and was done. I was surprised my scanner did the cam degree thing. Bonus. Very sensitive to get the reading right, but 'graphing' the cam degree readout really helped. Thank you for this video, it gave me the confidence to do it myself instead of dragging the jeep downtown. I also did the Viper Coil mod too. That was a story in itself. Have a great day, thank you.
We are glad that the video was helpful. Aligning the oil pump slot is a bit tricky. Unfortunately my scanner is not able to give the degree readout but that is helpful in making sure you have the right teeth.
@@theshop392 I know we're all on a budget, that's why i got the 600s on sale at amazon. I'm not a salesman for them or amazon. I just needed a cost effective scan tool and that one does a lot of various tests and resets. Again, thanks and you have a great day !
What year jeep do you have? My 01 wj wouldnt work with the topdon 600, or xtool d7 not even a snap on scanner was able to connect to correctly adjust the sync for this repair
You did a great job demonstrating and describing the operation!
Glad it was helpful!
You are the man. Thank you for the video. I just bought a 2005 unlimited. I'm getting the POO16 code. So on Saturday I'm going to go through everything to make sure it's all at TDC before I purchase replacement sensors.
Do you know if the 05 has the opda (large diameter oil pump drive). If it does I would recommend replacing the cam position sensor before you replace the whole opda. My 06 wrangler threw a similar code and I had to replace the sensor, no need to pull out the opda. I couldn't get an original sensor and the aftermarket one did not work correctly untill I put a washer under the sensor
@@theshop392 Yes it does have the larger (new style) OPDA. I used to own a 2006 unlimited that I had bought a new and drove it for 11 years. I only had to replace it on that once. This new Jeep appears to have a newer OPDA. So I'm going to need to get it to top dead center to verify that whoever installed Did it, put it back correctly.
If the Jeep was running before it threw the code I doubt that the timing jumped, unless the opda is damaged
@@theshop392 Yes it was running. It still is. I just ran it yesterday at highway speed for about 20 minutes. Everything seems completely normal. Just has the CEL light and that code. Since I just purchased it I don't really have any history so I'm starting from scratch on this one. It also has 198k miles.
@@theshop392 I used to rock crawl my '06 LJ. I'm planning to do a budget crawler build on this one because miss the rocks. Haha
will be doing this today, thanx for having it !
Good luck, be patient getting everything aligned, I only showed one or two adjustments, reality is quite a few more
Great video. I'm replacing my OPDA using techniques from other videos. Needless to say I did it incorrectly. Your two videos on this have made it extremely clear what I did wrong and how to get it right. Thanks so much for your videos.
Glad the videos were helpful, hope you have it running now
Awesome videos great information thank you!!!!
Always a pleasure!
Nice video explaining the process in detail. Thanks!!
Glad that you found it helpful!
Excellent video & information
Thank you, hope it helps with your project!
Thanks I really need this one! Much appreciated
Glad that it was helpful
Very well presented video .
Thank you very much. - V -
Thank you - hope it helps with your project!
Thanx so much for this video your natural teacher
Glad that it was able to help!
Thanks mate. Great vid. Appreciate it immensely 🙏
Glad it was helpful!
Very well presented thank you!
Thank you
Excellent video! Thank you.
Hope it helps on your project!
4:00, I need that ratcheting screwdriver for fathersday wheres it from?
It's a torque screwdriver, Amazon has a few different options, Harbour Freight has. Alternatively you could get Snapon or CDI as premium options.
Porfavor en español el video
❤THIS VIDEO IS VERY IMPORTANT FOR ME, THANK YOU
Hope the video helps you! Make sure to watch this one too so that you are sure you have TDC
ua-cam.com/video/9LQr97tO9ag/v-deo.html
Thanks so much for this!
Hope it helped with your project!
I followed another video last year for this exact procedure only they never commented on the oil pump slot needing to be adjusted so when I slid the sensor down it wasn't perfectly facing the back straight and I couldn't figure out why. I think that's why it started throwing codes again. At least now I think I know what the problem is. Thank you for this video.
Thank you for the feedback. The oil pump slot should not affect the sensor facing backwards, it would prevent the sensor from fully seating to the block. If your sensor is fully seated on the block and not facing the right direction it is likely off by one tooth, or start installing the sensor at a different orientation OR your timing is not at TDC and your cam needs to rotate, typically a stretched chain where you miss the timing mark and rotate the crank in the wrong direction, the stretched chain does not rotate the camshaft and your timing is now incorrect. Rather rotate the crank another two full revolutions than turn it the wrong direction.
Thanks for sharing
Always our pleasure!
Great video
Thank you
What year are you working on?
This was a 2000 XJ engine that we had retrofitted into a CJ
You deserve some biltong for this video.
Biltong is always welcome!
5.5mm 😅😉
Metric is simple....
It's actually 5.3453/67 very precise. Lol