6 OVERHEAD STICK WELDING TIPS (Eliminate Droopy Welds)
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- Опубліковано 3 лис 2022
- Ever had a droopy overhead weld? Maybe you're still struggling? Here are my 6 tips on how to make better overhead stick welds.
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Zero bullshit, zero posturing & posing, 100 % practical advice from a real world pro, Thanks Austin , regards from Ireland.
I always run overheads at the same amps as flat. The amperage will drive the molten metal into the joint. Just remember, you can’t carry as much metal in the overhead position. Therefore, smaller beads and more of them.
You can carry the same amount of filler with full commitment and correct travel speed
Many years ago, an old welder told me that overhead was just flat turned upside down. I'm now retired after 35+ years as a code welder. The old timer was pretty much true. As far as settings, I always kept a chunk of metal nearby to dial in my machine. Didn't make any difference if I was running SMAW, FCAW, or TIG processes.
Another little trick for practice.....with one rod of 7018......on a 3G plate.....fire up and run a nice pretty bead in a 3-4" circle without breaking arc. You'll be catching all positions. Place I used to work.....if you couldn't do that, there was no need to waste time on letting you test.
Same here. But MOVE!!! Do NOT think you can fill in overhead!!! Just focus on a clean weld there. On another note..... Best tip out there from an old timer when asked how to make the bottom look like the top was.... "F'up the top so it looks like the bottom!!!" Works every time!!!!
@@hokep61I like this, thank you for sharing
How do you get smaller beads with higher amps tho coz the higher you go with the amps the bigger the bead and there's not much you can do to avoid that from what I know anyway
i would suggest showing more errors on purpose ( too cold. too hot , too fast , too slow ) as many will experience mistakes as green welders, followed by the correct manner .
This has helped me in the past. I don't know if the correct way to teach though .
Keep it up !!Thanks for sharing.
thats a different video
I really appreciate your narration as you were welding. It's one thing to watch someone weld, but I found it to be far more helpful that you talked about what you were doing as you were doing it. It helps hobbyists like me to know what to watch for and how to adapt to what we see or experience.
Another good vid, Thanks Austin for all your knowledge sharing. Wanted to mention I traveled from Houston to Dallas on some back roads last week, every single little homestead and ranch has pipe fence or at least a pipe fence entrance! This country is so cool. For an east coast guy as myself, all your pipe fence work was hard for me to picture, now I get it lol !
Since I found your videos I have been hooked on the great stick welding tips my abilities were limited to welding brick ties on column’s as a 2nd year bricklayer apprentice in 1988
Im trying to do more welding now a way to stay busy and learn new techniques I really enjoy it
Hey ARoss,when I taught welding at Napa College at night,I didn't do it for the money that's foresure, I told all the students the basics, set up a beveled coupon and just let them loose,15 out of 15 couldn't do it,they all forgot it's a consumable rod,so I would tell them gravity is you enemy with overhead, like you said about arc gap,fight off gravity,maintain that gap,your a ams want to go down,there again gravity
You have the easiest and clearest videos I have seen yet. If I wasn't already "over the hill" I would definitely pay for your courses. I've been an auto mechanic for over 60 years so it's too late for me to spend money while retired. Most of the other professional welding videos are very hard to see what they are doing . Your explanations are also the simplest and best.
Thank you for your time.
Thanks for sharing these principles! Very helpful.
Always helpful advice austin. I did have to once attach a bunch of unistrut brackets overhead to heavy galvanized structural beam in a pipe rack. No grinding off the galvanizing allowed on the job. Full ppe was worn including mask for those wondering. A pipe welder saw I was struggling with the galvanizing dripping and suggested to gear up 1 from where I was on the machine and throttle down to about 20-25 on the machine. 6010 went right in under the galvanizing and hardly any drips. Went from struggling to being finished in no time.
What do you mean "gear up 1" ? Also, throttle down 20-25 amps less than your current amps or to actual 20 to 25 amps?
@nicholash8021 It's an ironworker/pipe welder term and used on machines like the Lincoln SA-200. Gear up means go up one setting on your course range setting switch and turn down the fine current setting to get the current back within the rods range. This basically changes the voltage/current relationship while keeping the desired current range for the rod. The effect is the rod will melt through heavy galvanizing easier so the weld arc is on the base metal and the galvanizing is not dripping all over burning you. Some jobs grinding the galvanizing off was not allowed.
@@phildegruy9295 Thank you.
Love watching your stuff. I’m a Gas company welder and often use little tips and tricks I learn from you in my pipe welding. Keep em comin!
Good job Austin, liked this videos and the information you provided to us. Keep up the good videos and stay safe. Fred.
Very useful information. Thanks for another great video!
How to find amps… using math..
120-150 RANGE.
Fine current range:10-100 (which is a percentage).
He’s using 30%… of 120-150 range…
Breaking this down to, how many amps are between 120-150? 30, divide that by 10 which is current = 3
So every “10” fine current is 3 amps.
If he’s at 30 on fine, thats 3x3=9
So starting from his base at 120 + 9 = so he’s at 129 amps.
thank you ! im an aprentice welder from quebec and ypur video are very helpfull
It was very nice. Informative. Nice guidance. Thank you for sharing.🙏👍
Austin another good one. welding stick is an art. Like driving a car with a standard transmission you look where you're going push in the clutch put it into gear and let out the clutch such that you don't kill the motor and away you go and don't forget to stear . hahahaha and R doesn't mean race. After jack rabbiting a ton and burning out a few clutches you are able to weld hahaha .
🎉Thank you Austin! Always great information! Blessings and keep it up🎉👍
You bet! Thank you for watching!
Thank you Ross you explain it to me right, I appreciate you an all you do, thank you again,
hey Austin,
I had to chuckle when you said you can probably get comfortable
on a real job if you can get comfortable in your practice setup.....I had to think
about welding 'curb inlets' [angle welded to bottom side of a steel roof between bar joists to support HVAC on the roof]....
.in an existing building with all the ducting already in place with all the electrical and fire protection too......where your noggin
is banging against the ceiling and joists and the lift you are lucky to have can only reach 8 feet from the roof to the floor of the lift
due to the 4 foot or bigger joist.....plus the walls are installed in building, so getting the lift to where you need is always fun, oh yeah,
the holes in floor where the plumbers are making trenches that would make WWI trench warfare look tame.....
I am still trying to figure out how to get a LazyBoy in a scissor lift or cherry picker.....the OSHA guys keep having fits about that...
cheers my friend, Paul
😎🇺🇸
Thank you so much man so helpful 💪🏼
Thanks for the great video. My first time visiting you. I’m a full time welder myself and subscribe to the theory that your never too old to learn . I like your style and I’m now subscribed. Thanks. 👍
Thank you for the sub! And thanks for watching!
Thanks as always Austin.
Good teaching very helpful
I love watching all your videos thanks
Thank you for watching!
This weekend I splurged and bought 5lbs of 332 5p. Holy smokes!!!!! what a difference new rod makes.
great information Austin.....best wishes from Florida, Paul
Thanks! Thank you for watching!
Good video young man!
good tips, thanks for share
All of ya novice, up and coming welders, this guy is a legitimate freakin' good welder. Listen to him. 👍👍
Very informative! I would like to have more information on which rod to use in hat application!
Thanks for the great advice
You bet! Thank you for watching!
It would be really cool if you could get some video glasses so we can see it through your lens as you talk. It would make your videos and training tips so much better.
Awesome video as always. What lens are your heavy hitters right now? I’ve had the weld tube, snake belly, arc one, true arc and a singles go bad on me all under a year. I do mostly stick and flux core.
Come on Austin start em out with that 5/32 5P overhead in a V neck t-shirt and a pair of fencing gloves with a number 8 lens. That a make a welder quick 😛
Every welding machine is different you get used to its characteristics, the machine on your truck you automatically know where to set it to where it needs to be, you fine tune it when you start welding it needs to be a little hotter or a little cooler. Here on the West Coast of BC its damp your welding leads are damp as they dry out you have to adjust your heat.
Thank you so much Austin, do you think I can use 6011 rod for the same purpose? Regards
very good tips for student like me
Great video! Could you do a video on vertical up with 1/8 7018, I am having sagging issues with that even when I hold a tight arc and do a "u" pattern.
Make sure the 7018 rod is dry and FRESH. I enjoy Lincoln's Excalibur 7018. Yes keep a tight arc and while progressing up a very slight weave / U motion ALLOWING THE TOES TO TIE IN. About 85 amps for 1/8 rod. Flux should just peel off. Practice often, clean the metal
Sounds like your just needing to travel upwards a little bit faster. It’s tough to get a smooth even uniform uphill 7018
@@kirstenspencer3630 good to know I have been at 100 amps. I will give 85 a try thanks for the help!
@@davidbranham9268 try 115-120 amps and hold the toes longer, quicker across the center.
1/8"-1/4" every Upward movement with your travel progression
90 deg rod angle
@@richardvillanueva8786 yup...the middle will take care of itself
Thanks
I would’ve used a piece of 3/32 7018, not a high penetrating rod like 6010, Just a different point of view from a different type of welder, Keep after it Austin👍
My experience as a heavy duty mechanic/welder must of the time on heavy equipment and or trucks. Over head is usually in an awkward spot for an awkward position and uncomfortable and often line of sight is not very good. Quite different from fencing pipelines or structural steel in building construction. Not that the technique differs much. It’s just every weld every job is different and that keeps it interesting
man you made that look easy i hate overhead welds.
2:28 - our understanding of the machine settings is at coarse 120-150 range - the fine will adjust only between those values - min120 to max 150 - to be cold at 75 you would have to be in the lower range... but as you go on to instruct - adjust as needed... we find this is full proof on a sample then go full throttle to complete.. caveat - we never measure amp/. would not know how but guessing google might have an expert.. :). thanks for this instructional - we have pointed many a question to your site...
Right on
Thank you so much. You and yours have an open invitation to dinner with me any day.
I think I always go to hot on over head I always tried to use rule of thumb being 90 amp but different welders may have a hot 90 or a cold 90 and as material heats up may have to go down to if your welding in day one spot. We built stands for drill rigs they made us do overhead welds can’t remember why exactly but man that I beam would get so hot and we’d be welding overhead at about 100 amp but then be back to like 85 by end of weld
👍 thanks
Hey man i recently started as a welder helper.can you do a video on how to properly grind the bead?im good grinding the top but the bottom part is what i have trouble with.ive seen other helpers do it without even looking at the bead.i would really appreciate it if you post a video about it.
Check it out:
ua-cam.com/video/9D1UpvFnp2w/v-deo.html
The key is to keep your handle as close to the pipe as possible. You’ll know what I’m talkin bout once you see the video.
I have a question, do you weld uphill or down hill with 6011
do you just stick weld for the most part? I;m working for a company doing Aluminum and steel, and one of the tests i'm doing is aluminum overhead 4g 1 inch thick and it's kick my butt. I get issues with problems like contamination and I get confused with the gun anles and I'm not sure if I'm dragging or pushing with overhead. I know your suppose to push Aluminum in overhead. I actually was welding away from me only becuase to me I can actually see the puddle better but i get soot. If I caome towards me, I have a heck of a time seeing my puddle. And it's hot settings like spray arc. I also get issues with droopy looking welds at the beginning and get like big pin hole. I do try to watch inner pass temp.
hello, I'm wondering which is better, transformer or converter welding machine? pros and cons of each! and which one do you use or which one do you recommend! can you please make a video on this topic? thank you very much
one big advantage to inverter welders is their smaller size for the same power output. many inverters can't run 6010 stick electrodes, but they will run 6011. my experience with inverter AC TIG welders is that aluminum is easier, but it doesn't like pure tungsten (the green ones), so use lanthanated or zirconiated tungsten instead.
It depends on the welding task. I have an oil cooled transformer welder and three inverter welders. My Oerlikon 140 is lightweight and goes on farm and other jobs because it can weld at full power on the end of a 50meter or 164ft 240volt single phase extension cable.
My Thermal Arc 202 is AC/DC so is used for Tig welding and my Newarc 250 can run off a 400 amp power source 90meters or about 300ft away.
The Oxford 180 is an oil cooled transformer AC only stick welder and has a battery charger. It weighs about 75kgs or 150lbs so is workshop based.
How easy do you want this to look
Austin : Yes
I practiced for months but it payed off as I passed all 4 positions on cwb
What arm wrest is that?
TOO NOTCH!
👍👍🎯❤️🇨🇦
What amps?
I'm new so I thought you should feel both metals when you go over them
I can’t believe it’s been all this time since you’ve been gone on the pipeline. Are you still in the Union? Do you ever think you will go back to pipe lining?
Austin - you might also consider using reverse polarity; it tends to "throw" the filler material upward better.
Bad idea. You do not reverse polarity on stick
If you reverse the polarity you will actually ruin the penetration
My understanding is that stick is best when run as electrode-positive, which IS reverse polarity. The opposite is called "straight" polarity. Here it is, straight from google search: "In straight polarity, the electrode is negative and the base plates are positive. In reverse polarity, the electrode is positive and the base plates are negative."
your cap was 7018? or is it all 6010
Kool shit Austin🤔NZ
I have always run the amps around 80-90 and just gone slower... But again every welder is different
It's funny how non pipeline Welders ask pipeline Welders how many amps are you running and you tell them 3rd gear and 60. Because they have no clue what the hell we are talking about.
Lol
If I'm running our Bobcat 250 at the house, that's how I say it. My neighbor understands me because it's his machine and he's a welder.
Please tell Miss Kayla I said hello , miss her on UA-cam
💪🏾
I think the rod is 80-120 amps
I swear I'm trying my best to focus, but I keep getting distracted by the hunted bucket swinging by its own
That's a structural joint meaning D1.1 D1.8 D1.5 and so on which means you can't use 6010 because of the hydrogen content....
D1.1 and other codes allow cellulosic electrodes. Low hydrogen electrodes are more commonly specified than others for structural, but D1.1 doesn't prohibit 6010. D1.1 only applies to material 1/8" or thicker material, so this 11 ga tube would probably be outside of D1.1's scope anyway.
@@Machinenfabrik so anything over an 1/8in 60xx is not allowed so anything structural its not allowed...and that's a structural joint he's trying to educate but he's stuck on the downhill pipeline stuff with no overall welding understanding
@@scotthigpen7901 D1.1 doesn't apply to any base material under 1/8" thickness, regardless of electrode type. D1.1 does not prohibit non low hydrogen electrodes. Look at the section in D1.1 that deals with prequalified procedures. It specifically covers prequalified procedures with SMAW electrodes other than low hydrogen.
@@Machinenfabrik great comprehensive explanation of code🇺🇸💪 very..very easy to understand..
To some at least 😎🧑🏭
Very good information bro I am an Electracation but I love to weld and fabricate thanks for the tips
Anyone else notice his joists run opposite to what they should be..
Square pipe
Welding instructors : “ get comfortable and adjust your machine.”
Field welder high on trucker toothpicks “if you ain’t welding wide ass open your scared. Wire Welder? I don’t even know her. That better not be a speedglass helmet and you won’t need that harnace we are only going 6 stories up and throw that busy ass tape measure out.
I need a lot more practice 🤦🏻♂️
Always stay with your puddle.
We weld these types of joints daily but we don’t “fit the joints”! It’s a square care butted up. I can tell you’re a farmer and a “pipeline welder”!my inspector would reject that weld instantly!
Thanks for sharing these principles! Very helpful.