the best welder weld.com ever had was bob moffatt he figured out the science in welding everybody else have issues grand masters dont have to do another plate A SNIPER GETS 1 SHOT IF HE MISSES HE PUTS THE HOSTAGE LIFE AT RISK
@@Welddotcom thank u . i made a lot of mistakes and even now after years sometimes something goes wrong and its big mess but most important u show your mistake not hide like 90% of yt welders. and for new welders one tip shop work or test are not even close to real field work when u in lift 70 + ft in the air and everything is moving and shaking
This video was much better than the last, cleaner audio, much more arc shots, good descriptive monologue. I would have ran lower amperage and kept my strikes closer to the tie ins, but we all have our preferences. Keep up the quality improvements! Great to see the channel getting better again!
I find that keeping my 6010 whips tight and the rod in the bevel shooting through work best for me. Every welder has there own technique they find works for them. Always interesting to see someone else's take on technique. Thanks for the videos always love them.
I've been struggling with this weld at college for my MMA final assessments, this video made me want to try it again. I thought I was doing something wrong with the arc making keyholes but from what this video shows its natural when V up welding a butt joint. Thanks for the video.
I'm no pro welder but I had to weld some bumpers on a loading dock the other day and let me tell you it was horrible but beautiful for someone with hardly no experience. I had to weld upwards and man that was really a challenge for me blew a hole right in the middle midway up. Still have alot to learn thanks for the tips and showing me how it's done.
Back in the dark ages, (late 70's, early 80's) when we were taught to weld at our local vo-tech school, (yep, I wasn't smart enough to go to college), we were taught that the gap should equal the rod you were using... Not sure if they teach that anymore or if they have new techniques... And it's amazing to see these new machines strike & hold an arc!!! We would have killed for a beautiful arc like that!!! Our old Lincoln/Miller machines were HUGE and HEAVY!!! I can still hear the Mr Pogue saying, "Show me your butts before you leave!!!"... Good times ;-) Well done sir, thank you for showing an old schooler/new sub a few new tricks!!!
From what I learned in school back in 2017, When doing a bevel test plate for structural steel, you can have a space equal to the rod diameter or smaller. I think the biggest gap allowed today is 1/4 of an inch.
Dear Paul, thanks for showing us the 3/32 root compared to the 1/8 root gaps....looks like it really made a big difference in quality. I wish I had known how much difference it made back in the day while in school. we are required to use a 1/8 root face and a 3/32 gap on 37 degree bevel open root. I think they had the specs off, but who was I to argue....Best Wishes from Orlando, Paul Brown
Yeah Paul!!!! Your getting more and more comfortable! I dig this video. I like how you are telling us what you are doing and why you are doing. Also the the little things like talking about the width of the weave and its allowance. Those little details make a difference. I been about half and inch when i go to restart. Iam going to see if i like this 3 -5 inch distance.
I noticed on the second root that you didn't whip out of the puddle nearly as far. was that more because of the wider gap, or did you turn the amps down a bit as well?
We weld cracks in hydraulic tanks or fuel tanks using 7018.Trick is have tank full.Weld through the oil or fuel.Never weld on empty tank,that will explode and kill you.Feel lucky, drop a pound or more of dry ice into tank before welding on empty tanks.Dry ice displaces oxygen and you can weld on empty tank.Do it if you feel lucky .
awesome video! my mentor actually uses this technique and tried to teach me but the language barrier was really tough. IMO, this is one of the harder techniques to learn. Thanks for awesome video!
I work field as heavy equipment mechanic.7018 is spec by Caterpillar. Try that with out in field.Metal gets warm and grease starts dripping into you weld.We hired super welders but they all dragged up coz it's a dirty job .We all can run pretty up hill welds using 7018.
i aint no expert but that technique on the first root with the big jumps foward then back seemed kinda ineffective with the arc going out and restarts , as we saw on the backside of the plate - then your technique looked different on your 2nd root with much better results - thanks for the video - we're always learning
if you'll notice you're preheating metal that you do not want to with those high upwards strokes on the root, you want it to be "relatively cool" when you pass over. a lot of new welders would definitely blow through with this method. edit* or not penetrate enough like you did
the statement at 4 minutes about 70,80,90 series rods needing stored at 225 to 300 degrees is incorrect. 6010-9010 rods are to be stored at room temperature. The higher temp storage will deterogte these non low hydrogen rods. XX14 and XX24 , are to be stored at 125 degrees farenheit, along with XX12, XX13,AND XX22, WHICH ARE USUALLY 60 SERIES but of the same Rutile type as XX14 AND XX24
THANK YOU SO MUCH for a nicely done vertical weld test training video! I've got a question...your rod angle is real steep. {{ Way back (when I was a student Tool & Die Maker, that was a professional Electrician); repairing welding equipment in our local tech school, I would listen in on what the welding instructor would be telling his students. He would say, "The straighter in your rod is, the stronger and prettier your bead will be." He caught me evesdropping on his class and envited me in on his class-room discussion. He found out my experience level in the Machinist and Electrical fields and tutored me, when he could in welding professionally.}} That being said, I have tried to keep an almost straight-in rod angle and run a "U" pattern up-hill, for most of my life. My health vs age has made me shakey...so I Mig more than stick, but I watched you running your cover-pass with the rod angled up, and needed to understand that concept. Does it splatter real bad, like its throwing metal, or does DC act better about not doing that than AC does? Bill from Tn. 🇺🇸
Yikes it took you a month for 1 position?? in the course I'm in right now for Canadian red seal we have 4 coupons, one for each position and 1 dual position coupon for 2g gtaw open root then fcaw fill and cap in vertical. We have a month to pass each coupon in preparation for the real Red Seal exam.
@9:25 "You are not supposed to go over one and a half times the rod size on the weave". Where do you get that information? AWS D1.1 does not address it. Maybe another code?
Modern ASME industry standard is the 2 inch 6G ,schedule .344 wall test. It qualifies the operator for pipe wall thickness up tp .688 wall. The uphill root bead became obsolete back in the 70s with the invention of high penetration welding rods like the German cell-80 that was used on the Trans Alaska pipeline.A down hill rod. American high penetration rods soon appeared and have been used now for 60 years in the industry.7010s and 8010s coupled with 8018 fillers and caps.Most pipe and tube welding procedure TODAY are downhill root,downhill hot pass and uphill with the 8018s ie filler and caps.The trans Alaska pipeline done to API standards [not ASME] was downhill all the way using the 8010 seres high pen rods.Before that were mostly navy trained welders who were taught to uphill everything.Its much slower and produces more unwanted localized heat.The young an who test today will likely take the 2 inch test.Its x-rayed and it is cheap for employers.So that young person would do well to learn downhill root and hotpass on the ,344 wall boilertube with 8018 filler and string bead cap.NOT WIDE CAP.Beads can only be 1 1/2 times the diameter of the rod used..For instance 1/8 rod would be 3/16 wide max.For young people ASME stands for American Society of Mechanical Engineeers.API [less stringent] stands for American Piping Institute.Also 6G stands for pipe test done at a 45 degree angle as opposed to horizontal or vertical test.
Anyone can do flat welding, but it takes skill to do overhead and vertical up you got to be diverse. A good welder welds all positions in all kinda of weather and in anyplace uncomfortable or not.
Hi really love the video It helps me a lot !!! Quick question… Do you let the rod touch the material or do You keep it just off ?? Gr Mikey from the Nederlands
I’m lead hand on a rock crusher and anytime i have to up hand on our trash equipment i hate my life. It’s either i keep sticking or i’m to hot and it ends up a gob show. Any pointers?
Can you do a video on a 1/8 7018 cap on 6in pipe? I been struggling on getting from overhead to vertical, it’s dripping and has undercut. Thank you in advance.
Your travel speed and angle might need adjusting. If you understand the difference between push/pull you should get it fast. But always practice each time that you can. Highly recommended.
Try this technique each time that you stop at the count 1 one thousand then move. The under cut you are getting is because you are leaving the toe to fast thus pulling material from the wall. Just slow it down a bit and check that you amps aren't too high.
Good job sir. Appreciate the arc shots and all the advice. The way that arc kept cutting out in the root, I think it might have been the machine there because from what I saw, you kept the arc length consistent. Did you change anything else for the root pass on your 2nd plate? Like arc force or amps? Anyway, good stuff. Keep it coming
There's a huge misconception with the weld when you get to the top. It's not that the weld gets hot, it's the magnetic field that's being created is pushing your weld downward. Really clean audio, too.
@@seyelk59 Actually you are wrong. The magnetism that's created pulls the weld inward. The sheer heat rising upward in conjunction with the approaching electrode synergistically over heats the metal at a given travel speed.
I have to do this same joint but i just weld te first root and then grind it from the back so there is a little growe between the plates and the weld dont know what it is called in english can some one help me
I just think for beginner its easier to teach someone to stick the rod in and drag that's all and if the gap starts closing up tell them to slow down if it opens up speed up it's just easier to control if you put a good land on your pipe or plate in my opinion that's all
I'm reading alot of the comments from other people and their right.What a person see's on a video and what they see and do out in the field and shop are three completly different things.Year's ago working on a fish processing ship with the engineeries I had to weld a"pad eye" to the deck to hold down a skiff.The 350 footer was bobbin up and down, 60mph winds, raining like cats and dogs and wind chill about 20 below zero, insulated coveralls on,raingear and welding on deck up in ALASKA just south of the Bearing Sea.It wa so hard to move around on the deck I felt like a ballon.The deck plate was atleast 5/8" thick and the pad eye about the same thickness,the deck had about 1/2" thick epoxy paint on it and the WORST PART OF IT ALL,AT LEAST 2" OF RAIN ON DECK.Well someone beat me to it,they chipped the paint away, I didn't ask,all I know is I was looking at clean metal when I got there, good enough for me.But I still used 6011-5/32 rod cranked up,welded one side,then 7018-1/8 same amps, DON'T EVER,EVER SAY A PERSON CANNOT WELD WITH" LH 7018 WET ROD,POORING DOWN RAIN, GETTING THE S--T SHOCKED OUT OF HIM/HER,2" OF WATER ON DECK BECAUSE THEY ARE TOTALLY 150% WRONG, WRONG,I AM LIVING PROOF,TALK ABOUT GETTING SHOOKED,YA I GOT IT WELDED ALL RIGHT, 7 DAY'S LATER IT HAD TO BE REMOVED AND A SLEDGE HAMMER COULD NOT BEND IT, BENDING IT INTO THE WELD,IT WOULD NOT BUDGE!! A ENGINEER TOOK CARBON ARC GOWGING TO GET IT OFF,THEN GRIND THE WELD, WHAT'S LEFT.DONT EVER SAY LH ROD OF 7018 CANNOT WELD IN 2" OF RAIN AND THE RODS GOT SOAKING WET. NOW THAT'S WHAT I CALL WELDING OUT IN THE FIELD !! I THINK IT SHOULD BE A GOOD IDEA FOR SCHOOLS TO TEACH STUDENTS WHAT'S IT LIKE WELDING OUT IN THE FIELD IN THE ELEMENTS (100+ DEGREES HOT WEATHER TO--20 TA--50 BELOW ZERO,WIND BLOWIN.
I really appreciate this video alot of people edit to make everything look perfect when u out in the real world nothing perfect! Respect
That's exactly why we don't edit out any mistakes! We would rather show how to learn from them.
the best welder weld.com ever had was bob moffatt he figured out the science in welding everybody else have issues grand masters dont have to do another plate A SNIPER GETS 1 SHOT IF HE MISSES HE PUTS THE HOSTAGE LIFE AT RISK
@@mohammedtroy4296 u must be like me and everyone else not perfect!! Let Bob say he's perfect not u just saying
@@ajhartjr1205 a great teacher must have a formula to teach his students bob did his research many years ago he talks the talk and walks the talk
@@Welddotcom thank u . i made a lot of mistakes and even now after years sometimes something goes wrong and its big mess but most important u show your mistake not hide like 90% of yt welders. and for new welders one tip shop work or test are not even close to real field work when u in lift 70 + ft in the air and everything is moving and shaking
This video was much better than the last, cleaner audio, much more arc shots, good descriptive monologue. I would have ran lower amperage and kept my strikes closer to the tie ins, but we all have our preferences. Keep up the quality improvements! Great to see the channel getting better again!
Thanks for the feedback and support!
Finally a decent and interesting no BS video Thank you!
This video was a lot better. Plug your sponsors and weld. This has a lot better content instead of welding equipment commercials.
I find that keeping my 6010 whips tight and the rod in the bevel shooting through work best for me. Every welder has there own technique they find works for them. Always interesting to see someone else's take on technique. Thanks for the videos always love them.
Same here.
This video was epic. Thank you for the upload. Clear to-the-point straightforward no-nonsense. I definitely learned a lot I appreciate it
I've been struggling with this weld at college for my MMA final assessments, this video made me want to try it again. I thought I was doing something wrong with the arc making keyholes but from what this video shows its natural when V up welding a butt joint. Thanks for the video.
I'm no pro welder but I had to weld some bumpers on a loading dock the other day and let me tell you it was horrible but beautiful for someone with hardly no experience. I had to weld upwards and man that was really a challenge for me blew a hole right in the middle midway up. Still have alot to learn thanks for the tips and showing me how it's done.
Nice technique even a beginner can understand.
Man I am really satisfied with your explanation about the root pass and everything else
Back in the dark ages, (late 70's, early 80's) when we were taught to weld at our local vo-tech school, (yep, I wasn't smart enough to go to college), we were taught that the gap should equal the rod you were using... Not sure if they teach that anymore or if they have new techniques... And it's amazing to see these new machines strike & hold an arc!!! We would have killed for a beautiful arc like that!!! Our old Lincoln/Miller machines were HUGE and HEAVY!!! I can still hear the Mr Pogue saying, "Show me your butts before you leave!!!"... Good times ;-) Well done sir, thank you for showing an old schooler/new sub a few new tricks!!!
From what I learned in school back in 2017, When doing a bevel test plate for structural steel, you can have a space equal to the rod diameter or smaller. I think the biggest gap allowed today is 1/4 of an inch.
Best view of the work that I have seen in welding video.
Dear Paul, thanks for showing us the 3/32 root compared to the 1/8 root gaps....looks like it really made a big difference in quality. I wish I had known how much difference it made back in the day while in school. we are required to use a 1/8 root face and a 3/32 gap on 37 degree bevel open root. I think they had the specs off, but who was I to argue....Best Wishes from Orlando, Paul Brown
Good honest video, seeing a mistake is very informative thanks for not editing 👍
That was some really beautiful work. I'm enamored with how much of an art welding is. That was awesome sir.
This guy's arc strikes are amazing
Great video! I find your technique here is what works for me as well👍
Welding uphill stick... very fun 👍
Great video teaching me more than my instructor does
My biggest problem was penetrations on open gap... Thanks for the help brother!
Really super nice weld and instructions, thank you
thanks Paul!👍👍
And he corrected it GGs sir 👌🏽respect
Yeah Paul!!!! Your getting more and more comfortable! I dig this video. I like how you are telling us what you are doing and why you are doing. Also the the little things like talking about the width of the weave and its allowance. Those little details make a difference. I been about half and inch when i go to restart. Iam going to see if i like this 3 -5 inch distance.
Great, just great. Greetings from Austria.
My grandfather taught me how to weld he made me master 7018 vertical that was about 40 years ago I’m 54 now and weld and fabricate for a living .
Thanks for the video I learned a lot about virtcal up welds
I work for Airgas, love the cylinders in the background!
Nice good tips ! Vertical 6010 is the hardest
Practice every day. 6011 and 6010 kicked my ass in the beginning, but be dedicated, and you WILL see improvement. Works for me.
Look very professional sir..
Dude is a beast. It's hard to run 7018 like that
I noticed on the second root that you didn't whip out of the puddle nearly as far. was that more because of the wider gap, or did you turn the amps down a bit as well?
really at a 3/32 gap i believe he shouldnt have whipped it but thats why 1/8th worked well, he must be used to that fitup the most idk
Different rods burn differently too
We weld cracks in hydraulic tanks or fuel tanks using 7018.Trick is have tank full.Weld through the oil or fuel.Never weld on empty tank,that will explode and kill you.Feel lucky, drop a pound or more of dry ice into tank before welding on empty tanks.Dry ice displaces oxygen and you can weld on empty tank.Do it if you feel lucky .
Another great welding video!
Quality.. thanks a lot!
Great information thank you
Nice informative video thank you.
awesome video! my mentor actually uses this technique and tried to teach me but the language barrier was really tough. IMO, this is one of the harder techniques to learn. Thanks for awesome video!
I work field as heavy equipment mechanic.7018 is spec by Caterpillar. Try that with out in field.Metal gets warm and grease starts dripping into you weld.We hired super welders but they all dragged up coz it's a dirty job .We all can run pretty up hill welds using 7018.
i aint no expert but that technique on the first root with the big jumps foward then back seemed kinda ineffective with the arc going out and restarts , as we saw on the backside of the plate - then your technique looked different on your 2nd root with much better results - thanks for the video - we're always learning
Nice vid
if you'll notice you're preheating metal that you do not want to with those high upwards strokes on the root, you want it to be "relatively cool" when you pass over. a lot of new welders would definitely blow through with this method.
edit* or not penetrate enough like you did
Dude where did Jason go?
the statement at 4 minutes about 70,80,90 series rods needing stored at 225 to 300 degrees is incorrect. 6010-9010 rods are to be stored at room temperature. The higher temp storage will deterogte these non low hydrogen rods. XX14 and XX24 , are to be stored at 125 degrees farenheit, along with XX12, XX13,AND XX22, WHICH ARE USUALLY 60 SERIES but of the same Rutile type as XX14 AND XX24
he was referring to low hydrogen rods
You mentioned xx12 and xx22.... I hadn't heard or seen anything bout these for years... like a couple of decades
When he said that he was still talking about xx18 LH rods. He was talking the tinsel strength of the rods.
that keyhole on ur first root was gigantic. could see getting fusion issues or inconsistencies with that technique
Who’s this dude where’s the other fella
This is Paul Sableski, we have a variety of hosts now!
We want bob!!
What other “fella”
@@williamheaven8983lol
Does it matter?
THANK YOU SO MUCH for a nicely done vertical weld test training video! I've got a question...your rod angle is real steep. {{ Way back (when I was a student Tool & Die Maker, that was a professional Electrician); repairing welding equipment in our local tech school, I would listen in on what the welding instructor would be telling his students. He would say, "The straighter in your rod is, the stronger and prettier your bead will be." He caught me evesdropping on his class and envited me in on his class-room discussion. He found out my experience level in the Machinist and Electrical fields and tutored me, when he could in welding professionally.}}
That being said, I have tried to keep an almost straight-in rod angle and run a "U" pattern up-hill, for most of my life. My health vs age has made me shakey...so I Mig more than stick, but I watched you running your cover-pass with the rod angled up, and needed to understand that concept. Does it splatter real bad, like its throwing metal, or does DC act better about not doing that than AC does?
Bill from Tn. 🇺🇸
I've been stuck on my vertical 6010 root for almost 4 weeks in school.. Sucks but I'm almost there
Nvmd just passed this morning 😁
@Paul Sableski oh yeah I've been watching... Thank you for all of these tutorials, they have been helping me so much
Yikes it took you a month for 1 position?? in the course I'm in right now for Canadian red seal we have 4 coupons, one for each position and 1 dual position coupon for 2g gtaw open root then fcaw fill and cap in vertical. We have a month to pass each coupon in preparation for the real Red Seal exam.
Thanks for the tips, new blood on the channel. You know what Bob is up to these days?
Bob is teaching full time right now and he's also launching his own channel and we hope he will back soon with us as well from time to time.
Need Bob back. Can't wait to see his welding channel and subscribe.
@9:25 "You are not supposed to go over one and a half times the rod size on the weave". Where do you get that information? AWS D1.1 does not address it. Maybe another code?
Good stuff
실력이 대단하시네요😄
Modern ASME industry standard is the 2 inch 6G ,schedule .344 wall test. It qualifies the operator for pipe wall thickness up tp .688 wall. The uphill root bead became obsolete back in the 70s with the invention of high penetration welding rods like the German cell-80 that was used on the Trans Alaska pipeline.A down hill rod. American high penetration rods soon appeared and have been used now for 60 years in the industry.7010s and 8010s coupled with 8018 fillers and caps.Most pipe and tube welding procedure TODAY are downhill root,downhill hot pass and uphill with the 8018s ie filler and caps.The trans Alaska pipeline done to API standards [not ASME] was downhill all the way using the 8010 seres high pen rods.Before that were mostly navy trained welders who were taught to uphill everything.Its much slower and produces more unwanted localized heat.The young an who test today will likely take the 2 inch test.Its x-rayed and it is cheap for employers.So that young person would do well to learn downhill root and hotpass on the ,344 wall boilertube with 8018 filler and string bead cap.NOT WIDE CAP.Beads can only be 1 1/2 times the diameter of the rod used..For instance 1/8 rod would be 3/16 wide max.For young people ASME stands for American Society of Mechanical Engineeers.API [less stringent] stands for American Piping Institute.Also 6G stands for pipe test done at a 45 degree angle as opposed to horizontal or vertical test.
Vertical up and overhead are my favorite welding positions
Says no one ever
I'll lay it flat anytime I can
@@sledsports right, who chooses to have a slag shower. I weld pipe but I’d choose a roll out over an overhead 😂
Anyone can do flat welding, but it takes skill to do overhead and vertical up you got to be diverse. A good welder welds all positions in all kinda of weather and in anyplace uncomfortable or not.
@@secretmulletman7984 never said I couldn’t do it lmao. I make x ray welds every day. But I’d jam out and do some roll outs anyday over an over head
Hi really love the video
It helps me a lot !!!
Quick question…
Do you let the rod touch the material or do
You keep it just off ??
Gr Mikey from the Nederlands
Hello. Can you make video on 1G outside corner joint of a 3/8 plate.
I’m lead hand on a rock crusher and anytime i have to up hand on our trash equipment i hate my life.
It’s either i keep sticking or i’m to hot and it ends up a gob show.
Any pointers?
I can't find where to order these bohler rods 1/8 7018! any help would be appreciated
I haven't run stick in years. Is it normal to tie in to a weld with the slag still on it? I'm referring to the start and stops.
Can you do a video on a 1/8 7018 cap on 6in pipe? I been struggling on getting from overhead to vertical, it’s dripping and has undercut. Thank you in advance.
Your travel speed and angle might need adjusting. If you understand the difference between push/pull you should get it fast. But always practice each time that you can. Highly recommended.
Try this technique each time that you stop at the count 1 one thousand then move. The under cut you are getting is because you are leaving the toe to fast thus pulling material from the wall. Just slow it down a bit and check that you amps aren't too high.
I think the rod angles were way too aggressive but it worked out well. Maybe film angles exaggerated that.
Nice!
Nice
I just bought a Lincoln inverted v275s which tig torch do you recommend
Good job sir. Appreciate the arc shots and all the advice. The way that arc kept cutting out in the root, I think it might have been the machine there because from what I saw, you kept the arc length consistent. Did you change anything else for the root pass on your 2nd plate? Like arc force or amps?
Anyway, good stuff. Keep it coming
I have the same welding jacket 😀
WHAT WERE YOUR AMPS ON THE CAP RUN?
all of my aluminum gravel trailers are mig welded downward. So are my steel trailers.
I can't have enough respect for this individual. He's a fucking genius period.
LOL
There's a huge misconception with the weld when you get to the top. It's not that the weld gets hot, it's the magnetic field that's being created is pushing your weld downward.
Really clean audio, too.
You are wrong
@@spencerseedig3380 No I'm not.
@@seyelk59 Actually you are wrong. The magnetism that's created pulls the weld inward. The sheer heat rising upward in conjunction with the approaching electrode synergistically over heats the metal at a given travel speed.
Do that upside down at about 25 degrees laying on that one stone you missed, I’m sure you have to thanks for the video
Love the smell of stick rod........
Awesome
What safety glasses is he wearing?
This guy reminds me of Karl from that 1996 movie; Sling Blade.
What year did they start that crap? That cap looks horrible. One and a half times the rod thickness?
Bring Back Bob
Or you can use Titanium Pipe cut in the middle to guide the Weld pool, but you have to Grease it with Heat resistant Grease.
What diameter rod and amp/ arcforce settings?
My area it's 7018 all the way out no risk of 6010 hydrogen cracking it's loaded with it
Even pros make mistakes
Isn't the splatter on the side are going to make you fail the xray test?
I have to do this same joint but i just weld te first root and then grind it from the back so there is a little growe between the plates and the weld dont know what it is called in english can some one help me
The red lava dropping is that the slag
Yeah
No it’s lava
How far up are you going looks like an inch
When there's slag, you drag. But up hill not so much. Looks more like a push?
Do an x-ray on that. Would like to se if there is pores in The weld.
that looks more like a Weavving motion to me... Stringer vs Weave.?
If you didn't do that dramatic up and back and did a bit more of the side to side like the 7018 that 6010 root would have ben butter
I miss bob
Same
You don't need to whip an open root if your heat is set right you can drag it all the way
Good to know how to whip though because in the field you’re going to have a bad fit up here and there.
I just think for beginner its easier to teach someone to stick the rod in and drag that's all and if the gap starts closing up tell them to slow down if it opens up speed up it's just easier to control if you put a good land on your pipe or plate in my opinion that's all
bruh my local doesn't use 6010 for the root pass
So when you test you don’t recommend cleaning the tie in?
It's better if you do. Feather it in too.
@@1Guason3 that’s what I was always told
You want to clean and feather it.
Starting up Going back into a keyhole you don’t need to. Tie back in to a tack or back into start up feather it.
@@jeepwk6.5L pretty sure they are taking about the low hydro fill and cap .
Run a little hotter!!!! than Colder!!!!!!
Up hill with stick 6010 root 7018 cap
On the first root, it appears you whipped too much and thus making it not get full penetration.
That 6010 root on the first coupon looks like SHIT, why would you continue to cap when that root would tear open when bend tested.
no closeups of the root backside is telling
Ive always preferred a 1/16 land and 1/16 gap. Stick it an drag it up.
I'm reading alot of the comments from other people and their right.What a person see's on a video and what they see and do out in the field and shop are three completly different things.Year's ago working on a fish processing ship with the engineeries I had to weld a"pad eye" to the deck to hold down a skiff.The 350 footer was bobbin up and down, 60mph winds, raining like cats and dogs and wind chill about 20 below zero, insulated coveralls on,raingear and welding on deck up in ALASKA just south of the Bearing Sea.It wa so hard to move around on the deck I felt like a ballon.The deck plate was atleast 5/8" thick and the pad eye about the same thickness,the deck had about 1/2" thick epoxy paint on it and the WORST PART OF IT ALL,AT LEAST 2" OF RAIN ON DECK.Well someone beat me to it,they chipped the paint away, I didn't ask,all I know is I was looking at clean metal when I got there, good enough for me.But I still used 6011-5/32 rod cranked up,welded one side,then 7018-1/8 same amps, DON'T EVER,EVER SAY A PERSON CANNOT WELD WITH" LH 7018 WET ROD,POORING DOWN RAIN, GETTING THE S--T SHOCKED OUT OF HIM/HER,2" OF WATER ON DECK BECAUSE THEY ARE TOTALLY 150% WRONG, WRONG,I AM LIVING PROOF,TALK ABOUT GETTING SHOOKED,YA I GOT IT WELDED ALL RIGHT, 7 DAY'S LATER IT HAD TO BE REMOVED AND A SLEDGE HAMMER COULD NOT BEND IT, BENDING IT INTO THE WELD,IT WOULD NOT BUDGE!! A ENGINEER TOOK CARBON ARC GOWGING TO GET IT OFF,THEN GRIND THE WELD, WHAT'S LEFT.DONT EVER SAY LH ROD OF 7018 CANNOT WELD IN 2" OF RAIN AND THE RODS GOT SOAKING WET. NOW THAT'S WHAT I CALL WELDING OUT IN THE FIELD !! I THINK IT SHOULD BE A GOOD IDEA FOR SCHOOLS TO TEACH STUDENTS WHAT'S IT LIKE WELDING OUT IN THE FIELD IN THE ELEMENTS (100+ DEGREES HOT WEATHER TO--20 TA--50 BELOW ZERO,WIND BLOWIN.
No chipping slag off before restarts hmmm 🤔
Wen u change rod turn down 5