Why Some Grass Grows EXTRA Tall & EXTRA Fast || Nutsedge ID
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- Ever wonder why some of the grass in your lawn grows way taller way faster than the rest of your lawn? It might be because it's not grass at all.
Both yellow nutsedge and purple nutsedge grow in the lawn and resemble turf grass but especially during the summer they grow much faster and that's because it's not a grass at all.
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Get Rid Of Nutsedge For Good
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Holosulfuron is usually the best ingredient on the market to kill nutsedge for good without damaging the desirable lawn. You can buy packets of this active ingredient in Sedgehammer+ here:
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Glyphosate will not kill nutsedge. As you mention, you need to use products with halosulfuron or sulfentrazone and stay on it. Sedge Ender is my favorite and I still sometimes use a torch to burn some of them down to try and use up the energy in the nuts. It's long process and can take a couple of years to really control it. I've been working on mine in the flower bed for a couple of years now. The first year the nutsedge showed up, I pulled it twice and that was a big mistake.
Thank you Brian! Excellent video.
It's definitely possible to manually pull. Tedious for sure. Delicate no doubt but possible
Well since nut sedge is so sturdy is there a way to make a lawn strictly out of nut sedge since it still looks like grass anyway?
Wow super informative. I don't think I've ever seen nutsedge in CA where I live.
You really threw me a curveball planting KBG. Wasn't the plan to seed Kikuyu?
I'm not complaining. I'd love to see how KBG does in So. CA.
Nutsedge is definately very prevalent in so cal in my area. Neighbors lawn is full of it. Almost has a full lawn of nutsedge.
I'm still sitting on my Kikuyu seed I bought for that space by the driveway but I'm giving it an extra season to make sure I get all the bermuda out of the space before planting such expensive seed there. Whittet Kikuyu is about $150 per pound! As for as I understand getting bermuda out of a kikuyu lawn will be extremely difficult, something I don't want to commit to just yet. KBG will be another holding period grass for me until Spring 2024. As for the KBG, I'm super excited to see it fill out, by the time it's thick it will be sept and it should LOVE the weather here through the fall all the way through the winter since soil temps won't drop below 50. If anything throws it into dormancy it will be short days in Jan.
my older neighbor down the road, retired lawn guy with hybrid bermuda installed in the late 70's has been telling me he's been battling nutsedge for decades in this neighborhood. Enough people let there's go to seed that it's always finding it's way back into his yard and planter beds.
The plant id app I use, which is free, identified my undesirable grass as Poa Trivialis, and didn't mention anything about nutsedge. The two look pretty similar after watching this video. The stuff was awful, as there was more growth each week and it grew faster than the normal grass (which I did attempt to re-use and overseed early this season). I attempted to pick the stuff by hand but there were probably 1000s of them, and that stimulating regrowth. Spraying glyphosate on the individual Poa Triv was going to be too time tedious and consuming for something without 100% perfect result, so I'm resetting the entire lawn. Thankfully it's only 1000 sq ft, nothing arduous at all.
My neighbor, I think has an entire lawn full of nutsedge. When it's mowed, it looks decent, for a day, mayyybe two. Then it starts looking wild again. They use True Green also, which almost makes it funny.
If you stand right up close, it looks like the lawn is two completely different grass types, and one just grows 100x faster and then dwarfs the other type. It's gotta be nutsedge.
specialty maintenance is what people need, unfortunately most only pay for the bare bones basics which just isn't worth it.
I dug some out that came up in some very loose delivered topsoil that I spread out about 6" thick, and probably missed the nutlet, but haven't seen them reappear in the last 2 years since. I read that temps below 20F can kind of kill it off, maybe that's what happened for me, it does get that cold in winter, snaps down to teens and single digits isn't uncommon here.
Dealing with this right now. I hand pull most of the weeds in my lawn except for the nutsedge which I spot spray with halosulfuron. It comes back every year.
I've read many studies that talk about spraying sedges when they are more developed. Are you spraying them when they are still small in the early season or when they are overgrown in July to early August? Also, I understand they are harder to kill even with halosulfuron or glyphostae in the fall because the plant is growing differently, trying to send up energy into seed stalk production. I've got a bit if halosulfuroon (not sedgehammer) that I'm planning on using on the main yard this week compared to tenacity on the side yard (baby grass). Meso is labeled for yellow nutsedge which is what I have.
@@TurfMechanic I have sprayed them early in the 2 tiller stage and also later in the 5+ tiller stage. It takes more than a week to see good results.
Never pull nutsedge. It’s a very warm weather grass, sits dormant until it’s warm. It multiplies when you pull it.
Tenacity with mesotrione does the job best
I think my whole "lawn" is nutsedge lol
Nice!
Looks like what southern farmers have forever called this stuff "Johnson Grass." Just asking, is it the same thing? Sort of like forever, cowboys and indians rode horses, but today, they are equestrians.
not the same thing, I've never done extensive research on Johnson grass but I do know that it's in the grass category and is different than both yellow and purple nutsedge. Halosulfuron should attack it like nutsedge but other herbicides are options as well.
Thanks. Intersting, I never heard of this stuff.
What about having a nutsedge lawn ?? 🤔🤔🤔
lol, I see many of those in my neighborhood. Then in the winter time, it changes to a wild onion farm
yum! onions! :D
😬 it would be like managing a putting green twice a day mows is a hard sell
Zero chance I'm trusting a QR code based URL link. Horrible security practice. Can't examine the link.
Very interesting perspective, im trying something new to see what I and you all think about it. Viewers on TV screens have no video descriptions to look at so this is my attempt at giving them that. Thanks for the feedback!
@@TurfMechanic I'm not breaking out a second phone to scan a photo of phone number 1.
Just include links in the description. Heck, if you include Amazon partner links to ALL of the products you recommend, that would be useful. Plus it saves you time re-answering product questions. Include non-Amazon links where Amazon doesn't carry the product, such as specialty seeds.
I wouldn't do that either, the links are in the video description so viewers on phones, computers, laptops, and tablets can just go to the description like normal to see any referenced links; the issue I'm trying to solve is the 23% of my viewers that are watching videos on Roku devices, Smart TVs, and Apple TVs primarily.
Basically if you watch the UA-cam ap from your Roku which I do a lot in my living room I can't see descriptions. I tried this from my couch, when watching the video on my couch on my TV I was able to scan the QR code from my phone without getting up and see the page linked on my phone.
For now I'm setting up dedicated video description pages on my website to supplement the video for the sake of viewers of TVs, not viewers on mobile devices.
Gotta think in terms of volume here, this channel has had 2.5 million views in the past 5 months and 23% of them were on TVs. That means anytime I have referenced something in a video description 100's of thousands of people have no reasonable way of seeing what I'm referencing.
Also, If I have one informational page on my website about nutsedge management and I reference nutsedge at any point in any video in the future I can reference the one page on my website instead of just adding tons of links to every video description.
I know that QR codes aren't trusted by everyone but they are becoming more mainstream so I suspect I'll start using them more often; I'll just figure out a "best way" to display them on screen.
Sedgehammer + works great to kill them.
That should be the best product of them for most people to kill the stuff off...I'd say though for comment readers out there that for larger application spaces a generic Halosulfuron product with a separately added surfactant would be just as effective and would probably be more cost effective.