Dave Welch literally saved my life with this video. Dave talked about NOT plunging your cut-off wheel into the metal in case there is something underneath. He recommended only cutting the thickness of the metal. I am so thankful for this. As I was cutting the cab corners off my truck and removed a small section I noticed I had just missed by a fraction of an inch something that had fallen down inside the cab corner. Turned out is was 3 boxes of 22 caliber long rifle cartridges and two 12 gauge shotgun shells!!!! If I had plunged the blade in I would of cut thru all of that nonsense and probably be DEAD!
You're the first video that I've watched to explain and slow it down so people have a full understanding of WHY you need to do certain steps. Great videos.
You're like a trusted friend or helpful next door neighbor. These tips are really clear and helpful. It makes me feel good about buying parts from Brothers.
OK I've watched 50 or more youtube videos of guys doing this in their garage. I like your methods better by far great tips! You're like the R. Lee Ermey of C10's :) smarter not harder!
I have repaired my floors,corners,kick plates,and inner rockers. I have been hesitating for months about the step your showing me.You truly wouldn't believe how much I have mimiced your doings to get me to where I am on my project.feel free to come by for first hand help 😁👍
It's not always easy to crank out videos, but knowing it's directly helping people with their projects is exactly why we do it, so thank you very much for your reply!
Great video! I ordered rockers panels and cab corners and also the inner rocker panel, cause I didn't know if it would need replacing to. I am hoping to start working on the repairs this spring. Thanks for the very informative videos!
Enjoyed the video! Loved the tips and tricks. I also appreciated that this was done on my era of truck ('68), so the open areas on your project gave me an idea of what I'll be digging into. Once I inspect and take inventory of what patch panels that I'll need I'll order it all up and get ready to do this to my C10. Thank you again for another great video!
prefect timing of this vid Just stripped down my 65 and have to do this task great attention to details. Mr Dave u are the Man. love you DIY vids. would you have are do a vid on steering column rebuild. I Have one that is trashed and don't care to spend the 600$ on a new one. thx
Dwayne Lejeune I completely rebuilt my column and it’s not too bad to do. Some parts are not available so I bought a used column and pieced one together. I live in Tennessee, in Nashville. There’s a place called Truck Haven in Unionville Tennessee that has all the c10 parts you can imagine. It’s a boneyard of only ‘67-‘72 truck parts, with some, only a little, amount of square bodies. I’m like a kid in a candy shop when I go there. The owner is Chuck. Nice guy and he also ships parts too. My column works perfectly now. Just remember how you disassemble it when you tackle the job. And install a new turn signal switch while you’re at it too. The adjustment at the bottom is crucial for proper shifting, if yours is a column shift. And I also recommend, if yours is a column shift, to get an aftermarket shift rod kit to eliminate the original style shift actuator mechanism connection to the transmission. Brother’s sells them and I believe that it’s a Lokar product.
@@MicheluceRizzuto thx, Im switching columns when I bought truck they had a manual, but using as a auto! I want to go full auto. I purchased a used column, but it was in bad shape, I think it came from a Camaro (lost paperwork) My question how do tell whats parts I need o repair
Yeah I’m gonna have to get my 68 a right rocker panel when I paint thankfully my 72’s were in great shape when I got them back from the sandblasting shop before we painted the truck great video guy’s!
Could you give us/me some information on the suggested Welder for this type of work? Doesn't have to be brand specific, just basic model/version/type. Thank You
I use a Miller 270 amp 230v mig and there is also Hobart both sell 110 v machines that won't wreck your bank account BTW Harbor freight has mig welders that can handle small jobs like this.
You can use any brand/quality of wire fed MIG Welder for welding body panels. You don't need anything very powerful because welding thin panels doesn't require it. We use a 120v Miller MIG here at the shop which is good for welding up to about 1/4" thick metal.
Great work. I just finished inner and outer rockers, lower hinge and strike post as well as cab floor patching. I used the factory assembly manual to replicate spot weld spacing and placement. It seems there are significantly fewer spot weld used in the video...i.e. spaced further apart than factory. Not sure it matters, but could be a design strength issue.
Do you have a video on steps for 67 72 c10 cab floor cab support rear inner cab floor and foot area floor replacement and steps needed Very great video how to thank you
We don;t have one for a 67-72 truck, but we do have one that we did on a 66 which is similar enough that it might be helpful to you. Here's a link: ua-cam.com/video/dSG40-OXJDw/v-deo.html
Love the video's. I have an 85 with rust behind the seat near the seat belt retractors. Is there a replacement panel for that area? Could you show the repair in that area? Thanks
Yeah, that's a BROTHERS part. Honestly, a lot of the reason we make these videos is to test fit products to make sure they're good enough to for us to stand behind. That's not a corny sales pitch, it's for real. Thanks for watching!
I'm restoring a 72 C20 super and the rocker panels are solid in the sill area. Would you recommend only doing only the outer rocker and not the sill area?
I notice you didn’t weld the lower cab corner to the inner rocker like you did the outer rocker to the inner. My factory assembly manual says three spot welds go there. I only mention it as my truck doesn’t seem to be welded there from the factory either. Were they or not?
I have a 70 C10 and would really like to see how to replace the panel above the window on the inside of the cab. Mine is destroyed from the drip rail leaking in. I'm dreading taking it on!
I read several places that the black coating the panels come with isn't really that great and you should scuff it then paint with some else. What is your take on that? I enjoyed watching and like the work.
It work for keeping rust at a minimum, but it's not really meant to be a base coat for paint. We always sand ours and apply a proper primer coat before painting.
@@cdnbroncolife1889 You're fine. The EDP coating will basically last forever and protect you from rust. We get carried away too, so it's understandable to be second guessing.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV And no matter how good you are or what you do, there’ll be areas where paint will have cooked off from weld heat and will be susceptible to rust. It’s just the nature of the beast.
Would you know if the 1969 2 ton truck cab is the same as the 1/2 ton cab.The cab looks the same.Just wondering if the rocker panel are the same to order them.
The cab is definitely different where the firewall and fenders are. So, with that being said, the rockers should be very close to the same with maybe some slight differences possible near the front? We're confident that you could use them to replace or repair your rockers as a direct replacement or at least you'd be able to use 90% of it with some minor mods near the front.
Hey! Dave great job you make this look so easy I almost want to try it but I don't have the time tools are confidence.can you help me if so where are you located?
I'm restoring a 1971 K10 and the inner and out rockers are completely rusted away. How do you get everything lined up and square when you don't have anything to go off of?
Welder setting can vary drastically from welder to welder. Our suggestion is to do some test pieces first before you start blowing holes or getting cold welds in your truck or repair panels.
We don't have a firewall video, but we're working on a Toe Board video right now. As far as advice, that's the same for all sheetmetal jobs, take your time, cut as little as possible, don't overheat the metal when welding or grinding... and remember you can always fix it again if you mess it up!
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV i find that hard to believe i see them rusted out all over so ca any wat no big deal just throught something a little different that rockers , cab corners , floor pans ect
I’m Assuming from watching this video that since I’m replacing the entire floor pan I should replace the pan before cab corners. I’d like to see a step by spec video of a 67-72 floor pan replacement.
Our recommendation would depend on how much or how often you think you'll be using the Welder. If you think it's just for minor work on one project, then Harbor Freight has a few options under $700. If you think you'll be using it with more frequency, the we recommend buying something of higher quality. At the studio we use a 120v Miller wire feed Mig.
I have a question? I have a 72 GMC. It has a about 5 inch rusty stop starting in the middle of the outer rocker I bought new rockers Should I replace the whole rocker. Or cut out a section Both ends are good I am not a professional welder But I bought a welder And new grinding wheels and watching a lot of video's I can do it !!!!!!!
Unscrew - you must have access to the back side to use them and then remove them. Otherwise you'll lose the little rectangular piece that clamps them together. If access is limited fish em out with a magnet IF they aren't aluminum.
Guys like me do more damage trying to fix the rust than the rust would in 10 years, I always appreciate nice metal work but I dont have the patience or skill to fix sheetmetal, if your like me just leave the rust alone or pay someone else to do it, besides people pay extra these days for "patina" I hate seeing people do beautiful metal work and body work just to paint fake rust on it, this truck looks great and you make this job look easy, I have seen people ruin their projects beyond repair trying to DIY metal work that's why I wont even mess with it.
When Dave talked about the idiosyncrasies from different factories at the time, he is dead right. People have to remember, these trucks were mass produced. In 1970 most were probably still assembled by hand. Not too many robotics yet. So fit and finish is definitely gonna be different. Even when you take a door or fender off of a 1971 truck to fit to a 1970 truck. Sometimes even the same year off a different truck will have a variances!! It is a definitely a pain. Yet it is fixable.
Why do people buy Rusty trucks to begin with? Spend a little more and get a rust free one from the south, sheeesh. That being said, your videos are excellent!
All trucks rust out cab corners. They’re open to the elements for draining and they rust. Doesn’t matter where you live. NM, AZ Nevada etc, may be immune, but at 50 years old they’re mostly non existent or exuberantly priced. So yeah, weld in some cab corners and have a truck vs search for one 40k more than you got. 1
We never cut the ends of the rocker. Once the old rocker is off, the new rocker sits in place without much need to work it. We thin that answers your concern? If not please feel free to comment again. Thank you for watching!
More questions than answers. I'm a pretty handy guy and I can weld but that looks damned intimidating. Since this is a given problem with these trucks it seems you should slow down. This is more like you're talking to a full-time body man that only needs pointers.
I thought this was a pretty great video on complex panel repair for a novice. I've done a few flat and basic single bend repairs on my crown vic, so maybe if you aren't comfortable with that this may be too much. aligning a door, the jamb and a corner? thats pretty complex. Probably should be intimidating. but if you take your time and align everything it can be done. I only bought a welder a few months ago, although I have welded a tiny bit at the repair facility when I worked at an airport, but never sheetmetal, that did take me some time to get right. I was actually worried I wasn't doing that great a job but his welds look pretty much like mine. I usually just do a ton of spotwelds or the material evaporates. The repairs I've done aren't nearly this complicated and it took me a while just to align the fender repair with the door.
Dave Welch literally saved my life with this video. Dave talked about NOT plunging your cut-off wheel into the metal in case there is something underneath. He recommended only cutting the thickness of the metal. I am so thankful for this. As I was cutting the cab corners off my truck and removed a small section I noticed I had just missed by a fraction of an inch something that had fallen down inside the cab corner. Turned out is was 3 boxes of 22 caliber long rifle cartridges and two 12 gauge shotgun shells!!!! If I had plunged the blade in I would of cut thru all of that nonsense and probably be DEAD!
Wow, what a story! Glad you followed Dave's advice and saved yourself from potentially getting really hurt. Thanks for watching and for the feedback!
Great find with the current ammo shortage!
Does David have a UA-cam channel of his own?
You're the first video that I've watched to explain and slow it down so people have a full understanding of WHY you need to do certain steps. Great videos.
Thank you for the feedback!
You're like a trusted friend or helpful next door neighbor. These tips are really clear and helpful. It makes me feel good about buying parts from Brothers.
Thank you, that's why we do these videos. They help us test the parts we sell and they help you understand how to use them... win, win!
OK I've watched 50 or more youtube videos of guys doing this in their garage. I like your methods better by far great tips!
You're like the R. Lee Ermey of C10's :) smarter not harder!
Thank you for the kudos!
The old silver fox handing out nuggets of information and technique. I love your videos, Keep going!
Thanks for the Kudos!
As a weekend warrior with soft hands, 15:17 made my spine shiver! I can feel the shavings deep in my fingers. Great video.
I've watched a few videos of this and you have made this look much more tolerable. Good job.
Thanks for the feedback. Good luck with your project!
The only way I know to make it easier, is to take it to Dave and have him do it for you. Great video!
This video is giving me confidence in repairing my 58 Apache rust spots, it’s in the exact same place
You can definitely do it, just don't get too far ahead of yourself and cut slowly!
Thank you Dave for your knowledge and sharing it to folks on classic trucks ! As always, good job !!
Absolutely our pleasure!
Enjoy the videos, they help people like me tackle the repairs. Plus Dave has a lot of knowledge and experience.
Thanks for your comment, and thank you for watching!
This is my project this weekend. Best video i have seen so far.
Wow, thanks! Good luck!
Thanks for the great video I’m 15 and about to do this to my truck that used to be my dads
Awesome! Good luck with your project!
I have repaired my floors,corners,kick plates,and inner rockers. I have been hesitating for months about the step your showing me.You truly wouldn't believe how much I have mimiced your doings to get me to where I am on my project.feel free to come by for first hand help 😁👍
It's not always easy to crank out videos, but knowing it's directly helping people with their projects is exactly why we do it, so thank you very much for your reply!
Best hint, I think we all just need to hire you. Nice work.
Great tip! LOL Thanks for watching!
You definitely make this project a lot less daunting. Thanks for going through the steps 👍🏻🍻
Any time!
Awesome precise description of how it's done...Short and sweet. I know it's not as easy as you make it look
Thanks!
This guy does a good job talkin natural but still keepin it instructional. He’s not over the top with it.
Thanks for watching!
Great video! I ordered rockers panels and cab corners and also the inner rocker panel, cause I didn't know if it would need replacing to. I am hoping to start working on the repairs this spring. Thanks for the very informative videos!
Absolutely! Thank you for watching!
This shows good reasons why to do cab corner and rocker replacement before new paint
I've been watching this dudes tips since he was installing wiring harness's in his driveway! Still the best at what he does!
Thank you!
Nice, love the longer 20 minute videos. 👍🏻
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great video. My son and I are working on a 69c10 stepside that dreams of looking like this one. Your video helps alot!!
Excellent! Good luck with the Father/Son project.
Enjoyed the video! Loved the tips and tricks. I also appreciated that this was done on my era of truck ('68), so the open areas on your project gave me an idea of what I'll be digging into. Once I inspect and take inventory of what patch panels that I'll need I'll order it all up and get ready to do this to my C10.
Thank you again for another great video!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
These old trucks seem to be very difficult to get information on.Thanks for you information,greatly appreiated.
Our pleasure!
prefect timing of this vid Just stripped down my 65 and have to do this task great attention to details. Mr Dave u are the Man. love you DIY vids. would you have are do a vid on steering column rebuild. I Have one that is trashed and don't care to spend the 600$ on a new one. thx
Dwayne Lejeune I completely rebuilt my column and it’s not too bad to do. Some parts are not available so I bought a used column and pieced one together. I live in Tennessee, in Nashville. There’s a place called Truck Haven in Unionville Tennessee that has all the c10 parts you can imagine. It’s a boneyard of only ‘67-‘72 truck parts, with some, only a little, amount of square bodies. I’m like a kid in a candy shop when I go there. The owner is Chuck. Nice guy and he also ships parts too. My column works perfectly now. Just remember how you disassemble it when you tackle the job. And install a new turn signal switch while you’re at it too. The adjustment at the bottom is crucial for proper shifting, if yours is a column shift. And I also recommend, if yours is a column shift, to get an aftermarket shift rod kit to eliminate the original style shift actuator mechanism connection to the transmission. Brother’s sells them and I believe that it’s a Lokar product.
@@MicheluceRizzuto Thank you for your reply and thank you for watching!
Thanks for watching! We'll look into doing a steering column rebuild in the future.
@@MicheluceRizzuto thx, Im switching columns when I bought truck they had a manual, but using as a auto! I want to go full auto. I purchased a used column, but it was in bad shape, I think it came from a Camaro (lost paperwork) My question how do tell whats parts I need o repair
I’d love to see this on a Chevy square body crew cab. The only rocker replacement videos I can find are on regular cabs.
We'll add your request to our list!
Vice grip garage does this on a crew cab I believe
@@justinsmith847 I saw it. Thank you for the heads up!!
@@ChadLisonbee oh no prob I actually have to do all of this to my 86 C10 lol so that's what got me here I've been watching a bunch of videos
Yeah I’m gonna have to get my 68 a right rocker panel when I paint thankfully my 72’s were in great shape when I got them back from the sandblasting shop before we painted the truck great video guy’s!
Lovely Dave many thanks.
You're the man, Dave!!
Thanks brother!
Could you give us/me some information on the suggested Welder for this type of work? Doesn't have to be brand specific, just basic model/version/type. Thank You
I use a Miller 270 amp 230v mig and there is also Hobart both sell 110 v machines that won't wreck your bank account BTW Harbor freight has mig welders that can handle small jobs like this.
You can use any brand/quality of wire fed MIG Welder for welding body panels. You don't need anything very powerful because welding thin panels doesn't require it. We use a 120v Miller MIG here at the shop which is good for welding up to about 1/4" thick metal.
Great work. I just finished inner and outer rockers, lower hinge and strike post as well as cab floor patching. I used the factory assembly manual to replicate spot weld spacing and placement. It seems there are significantly fewer spot weld used in the video...i.e. spaced further apart than factory. Not sure it matters, but could be a design strength issue.
Where did you get the factory assembly manual?
www.brotherstrucks.com
would like to see a video on the rear cab panel replacement for 1967-1072 c 10
Do you have a video on steps for 67 72 c10 cab floor cab support rear inner cab floor and foot area floor replacement and steps needed
Very great video how to thank you
We don;t have one for a 67-72 truck, but we do have one that we did on a 66 which is similar enough that it might be helpful to you. Here's a link: ua-cam.com/video/dSG40-OXJDw/v-deo.html
Love the video's. I have an 85 with rust behind the seat near the seat belt retractors. Is there a replacement panel for that area? Could you show the repair in that area? Thanks
No replacement for that area is available, but that could be fabricated. We'll look into doing a video.
Another fantastic video .... ill be doing this during my build and this info will definitely help
Thanks again for watching!
At 7 minutes in that cab corner fit
so good that I would’ve been tempted to lap weld it. That’s a Brothers part?
Yeah, that's a BROTHERS part. Honestly, a lot of the reason we make these videos is to test fit products to make sure they're good enough to for us to stand behind. That's not a corny sales pitch, it's for real. Thanks for watching!
If you need another c10 to practice on just let me know!!! Great video!!!
Thanks for watching!
Could you add a website as to where I can locate a new panel like yours? Wether for this style or newer styles
Website is in the video description on all our videos, but here's a shortcut: www.brotherstrucks.com
I'm restoring a 72 C20 super and the rocker panels are solid in the sill area. Would you recommend only doing only the outer rocker and not the sill area?
I notice you didn’t weld the lower cab corner to the inner rocker like you did the outer rocker to the inner. My factory assembly manual says three spot welds go there. I only mention it as my truck doesn’t seem to be welded there from the factory either. Were they or not?
Dave thanks for the video, can you tell me what rim and tire set up the truck has, they look awesome.
This video was done a while ago and we can't remember what wheels were on this truck. We know for sure they were 20" wheels by Detroit Steel.
I have a 70 C10 and would really like to see how to replace the panel above the window on the inside of the cab. Mine is destroyed from the drip rail leaking in. I'm dreading taking it on!
We'll look into doing a vid on that. Thanks for the suggestion!
Nice job, good video Brothers.
Thanks for the kudos!
Any chance you remember the tire and wheel combination on this project? That's the look I'm wanting to go with.
No sir, sorry.
how do you treat welds on the the backside of your patch panels to keep rust from coming through the back?
We try to get in there and spray paint them after the repair, or paint the panels ahead of time with weldable paint
What type of welder was that? I’m just wondering if I have to go out and buy a new one or my old H.F. special will do
We use a Miller 120v Mig, but your Harbor Freight welder should do the trick.
What are those little clamps? Is that a mig welder? What's the welder settings you use?
I read several places that the black coating the panels come with isn't really that great and you should scuff it then paint with some else. What is your take on that? I enjoyed watching and like the work.
It work for keeping rust at a minimum, but it's not really meant to be a base coat for paint. We always sand ours and apply a proper primer coat before painting.
@@cdnbroncolife1889 You're fine. The EDP coating will basically last forever and protect you from rust. We get carried away too, so it's understandable to be second guessing.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV And no matter how good you are or what you do, there’ll be areas where paint will have cooked off from weld heat and will be susceptible to rust. It’s just the nature of the beast.
I need to buy a welder specifically for sheet metal what options would you recommend?
Thanks for your advice
Would you know if the 1969 2 ton truck cab is the same as the 1/2 ton cab.The cab looks the same.Just wondering if the rocker panel are the same to order them.
The cab is definitely different where the firewall and fenders are. So, with that being said, the rockers should be very close to the same with maybe some slight differences possible near the front? We're confident that you could use them to replace or repair your rockers as a direct replacement or at least you'd be able to use 90% of it with some minor mods near the front.
Hey! Dave great job you make this look so easy I almost want to try it but I don't have the time tools are confidence.can you help me if so where are you located?
DM Dave on Instagram @ARTCustoms
Great work! Thinking about buying a C10 - 1966 that needs this done. Who does this good work in DFW TX, where I could get this done and not get taken?
No clue in DFW, ask around at local shows and see if the guys down in the area have some suggestions.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Thanks, good suggestions.
I have watched you do this to Daniel's C10 20 times I bet.
Thanks for watching!
I'm restoring a 1971 K10 and the inner and out rockers are completely rusted away. How do you get everything lined up and square when you don't have anything to go off of?
You need to use the kick panel area and whatever is left of the floor pan and rear of the cab. Also, mount the doors that will help alot.
I'm 18 and this makes me a little less scared to do haha. Any recommended welder settings so I get a good weld?
Welder setting can vary drastically from welder to welder. Our suggestion is to do some test pieces first before you start blowing holes or getting cold welds in your truck or repair panels.
Thanks for making this video!
Great video. What is your go to rust converter?
Dave tends to lean towards SEM's Rust Mort.
Great Video, did a 65 last year, starting on another one, you have any video on fire wall replacement or advice
We don't have a firewall video, but we're working on a Toe Board video right now. As far as advice, that's the same for all sheetmetal jobs, take your time, cut as little as possible, don't overheat the metal when welding or grinding... and remember you can always fix it again if you mess it up!
That's more easier than taking the whole cab off
Thanks for the Video David, great tips. Have you got a video on replacing the bulk head on a C10?
you mean the upper roof panel?
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV , sorry, the Inner cowl panel was what I was referring to. Thank you.
@@dwaynemorrison464 We'll look into finding a donor truck that needs that repair. Thanks for the suggestion!
A question I have is that, if I WANT to use the entire patch panel just to be extra sure, how can I safely do it without causing more damage?
Thank you, Sir. Information is power.
when are you doing drip rails
That's not on our short list at the moment. It's difficult to find a cab around here that needs that repair, so we'd be looking for a donor.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV i find that hard to believe i see them rusted out all over so ca any wat no big deal just throught something a little different that rockers , cab corners , floor pans ect
I’m Assuming from watching this video that since I’m replacing the entire floor pan I should replace the pan before cab corners. I’d like to see a step by spec video of a 67-72 floor pan replacement.
Yes, floor first. Basically work your way out from the center.
What kind of welder would be good? Can someone recommend a welder. That is good under $ 700 or less.
Our recommendation would depend on how much or how often you think you'll be using the Welder. If you think it's just for minor work on one project, then Harbor Freight has a few options under $700. If you think you'll be using it with more frequency, the we recommend buying something of higher quality. At the studio we use a 120v Miller wire feed Mig.
Question!
What is the right type of welder for these parts?
We use a 110v Miller Wire Feed MIG Welder.
Really helpful, thanks
@@victornavarro2507 our pleasure
Good stuff very detailed 👌🏼
what type of welder do i need to purchase?
We use a 120v Wire Feed Mig here at the shop.
Really enjoyed this one,👍
I have a question?
I have a 72 GMC.
It has a about 5 inch rusty stop starting in the middle of the outer rocker I bought new rockers
Should I replace the whole rocker.
Or cut out a section
Both ends are good
I am not a professional welder
But I bought a welder
And new grinding wheels and watching a lot of video's
I can do it !!!!!!!
What size wire do you use in your Mig ?
How do you remove the patch panel clamps after you start welding?
Unscrew - you must have access to the back side to use them and then remove them. Otherwise you'll lose the little rectangular piece that clamps them together. If access is limited fish em out with a magnet IF they aren't aluminum.
Where I get the rust killer ( RUST MOUR ) ? THANKS
It's called Rust Mort and it's made by SEM. It's available at Amazon, Walmart and other online retailers.
How many hours did this take overall?
Roughly 6-8 hours
Thanks for the video.
Guys like me do more damage trying to fix the rust than the rust would in 10 years, I always appreciate nice metal work but I dont have the patience or skill to fix sheetmetal, if your like me just leave the rust alone or pay someone else to do it, besides people pay extra these days for "patina" I hate seeing people do beautiful metal work and body work just to paint fake rust on it, this truck looks great and you make this job look easy, I have seen people ruin their projects beyond repair trying to DIY metal work that's why I wont even mess with it.
When Dave talked about the idiosyncrasies from different factories at the time, he is dead right. People have to remember, these trucks were mass produced. In 1970 most were probably still assembled by hand. Not too many robotics yet. So fit and finish is definitely gonna be different. Even when you take a door or fender off of a 1971 truck to fit to a 1970 truck. Sometimes even the same year off a different truck will have a variances!! It is a definitely a pain. Yet it is fixable.
100% right on!
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Thanks!! Just speaking from experience! Lol!!
Agree. The fit is different between trucks and I can see the little variances. So no matter what you do, as long as it works it’s ok.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV Thats for sure!!!!
nice job , what do you think of east wood rust products ?
We've used them in the past, they work good. We don't use them much anymore because it's easy to get rust products locally now.
Great!!!
Great video good instruction 🤠👍
Thank you sir!
What if the weather strip seam is rotted
Repairing the rocker or outer floor section will fix that issue.
What size drill bit do I use
For what part?
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV the inside rocker panels I'm working on a 66 Malibu
@@Biggtimeman We use a 1/4" or a 3/8" bit.
I'm currently welding my doors up...this is next...
Just being a kind C10 owner, I'd let yall do some demonstrations on mine!! lol
It can happen if you live in So Cal?
Show me tailgate assembly
Here you go: ua-cam.com/video/p5Cy-yYkcIk/v-deo.html
I have a step by step series on 67-72 metal work in progress on my channel for those looking for more detailed step-by-step guidance.
Can you do my truck?
Contact Dave directly on his Instagram @A.R.T.Customs
Why do people buy Rusty trucks to begin with? Spend a little more and get a rust free one from the south, sheeesh. That being said, your videos are excellent!
Thanks for watching!
All trucks rust out cab corners. They’re open to the elements for draining and they rust. Doesn’t matter where you live. NM, AZ Nevada etc, may be immune, but at 50 years old they’re mostly non existent or exuberantly priced. So yeah, weld in some cab corners and have a truck vs search for one 40k more than you got.
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Liked the video but you didnt show how you measured and cut the rocker on the ends.
We never cut the ends of the rocker. Once the old rocker is off, the new rocker sits in place without much need to work it. We thin that answers your concern? If not please feel free to comment again. Thank you for watching!
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV ok thank you
I want to tackle my 67 but I’m afraid I will mess it up and cost me even more $ to have someone to fix it
More questions than answers. I'm a pretty handy guy and I can weld but that looks damned intimidating. Since this is a given problem with these trucks it seems you should slow down. This is more like you're talking to a full-time body man that only needs pointers.
I thought this was a pretty great video on complex panel repair for a novice. I've done a few flat and basic single bend repairs on my crown vic, so maybe if you aren't comfortable with that this may be too much. aligning a door, the jamb and a corner? thats pretty complex. Probably should be intimidating. but if you take your time and align everything it can be done. I only bought a welder a few months ago, although I have welded a tiny bit at the repair facility when I worked at an airport, but never sheetmetal, that did take me some time to get right. I was actually worried I wasn't doing that great a job but his welds look pretty much like mine. I usually just do a ton of spotwelds or the material evaporates. The repairs I've done aren't nearly this complicated and it took me a while just to align the fender repair with the door.
@@Born_Stellar fair enough, Dave. Thanks for the input. They say the worst part of the job is the dread, fear of the unknown, etc...!
@@kenlelon369 for sure. also how'd you know my name is Dave??? lol
If only Maaco didn't charge $4k for this job.
That's why we make videos, so you can follow along and do it yourself. Then you just let Maaco do the paint and prep.