2010 Buick Enclave Fuel Injector Replace
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- 150k miles. Replaced injectors, plugs, PCV valves.
Car running very rough. Smelling of gas. Smoke coming from exhaust. Got check engine light (CEL) codes P0087 (fuel rail pressure low), P0302 (cyl 2 misfire detected), P02A1 (cylinder 2 - injector leaking).
This video helped me with my problems with my 2012 Chevy traverse LTZ with 129,000 miles. Thank you soo much! I started at 8:30am and finished by 2pm lol damn rail removal process took the longest! I cleaned all the fuel injectors then replaced O-rings and reinstalled. I also had to replace the fuel pressure sensor (was filthy) and bank 2 sensor 2 02 sensor. Saved me a lot of money!
Thank you very much for posting this! It was helpful in solving my problem: injector getting stuck in open position and dumping fuel.
09 GMC Adadia. Running great then all of the sudden goes into limp mode with “engine power reduced” error. Gray stinky (fuel smell) smoke billowing out. Barely able to drive to spot to get off road. Pulled codes and got P0087 fuel rail pressure low, P0089 fuel pressure regulator, P0191 fuel rail pressure sensor, P0134 o2 sensor, P0300 multiple misfire, and P02a5 injector leaking. Figured cracked injector or damaged o-ring likely cause of all other issues. Towed back home. Cleared codes to get fresh take. Started next day to pull into garage. No error codes and ran fine after burnt off excess fuel. After driving a while problems started coming back. Did some research and found others with similar symptoms that would seemly resolve themselves then come back. Figured likely cause was injector that was intermittently getting stuck in open position.
Replaced all injectors (found good deal on pack of 6 new OEM and way too much trouble to get fuel rails out to just replace one). Also replaced fuel rail jumper lines (fuel rail crossover & fuel rail supply) and fuel pressure sensor. I probably could have got away with reusing originals of those, but they are supposed to be single use and it wasn’t too expensive to get new OEM ones. I didn’t want any potential for old fitting connections leaking. While I was in there cleaned everything up, checked spark plugs, replaced rear “PCV” breather, checked and re-sealed manifolds. Reinstalled and torqued everything to specs. Running great now!
I found a few other key resources that could be helpful to someone else with similar issues.
Step-by-step with pictures and tools - www.enclaveforum.net/threads/changing-fuel-injectors-myself.13242/
Answers with service manual pdfs - www.justanswer.com/gmc/az86b-trying-remove-fuel-rails-2010-acadia.html
Yeah mine was spewing an incredible amount of white smoke. I was near the house. It was highly embarrassing. I looked like an Air Force Thunderbird with smoke turned on!
If you're having trouble removing the rear fuel rail -
Here's what worked for me:
1.) Rear fuel rail: Pry the fuel rail up as much as you can ( 3/4"?) to free the rail from the injectors. The rail must be free of the injectors to be able to remove it. If the injectors have moved upwards when you lifted the rail, push them back down with a flat screwdriver. If they are stuck on the rail, try to push them off with the tip of a flat blade screwdriver. You may be able gently press on the plastic harness to help push them down. They must be fully seated in the block.
2.) With the rail free of the injectors, lift the rail upwards as much as you can (3/4?) and slide it to the left 1/2-1". Make sure the rail is not binding on the injectors when trying to push the rail to the left.
3.) With the rail to the left, press down on the left end of the rail with your thumb.
This will force the right end up.
4.) Grab the right end with your free hand and lift it up, left wards, and out.
I agree those fuel rails are difficult to remove and install. This is while the engine was off the car!
You should edit your title to say Enclave, Acadia, and Traverse since they all have the same engine and this would be for the 2009-2012 models for sure. Not sure if the 2013-2016 models have the same engine. Thanks alot for posting this as this is exactly what my '12 Traverse was doing. Not gonna attempt to do this myself as I do not have the tools but I will hit up my local mechanic.
You should have drilled out the holes on the rear Pcv valve that would mostly likely stop oil getting in the throttle intake hose.. Good vid 👍
Actually the Traverse Acadia and Enclave have the 3.6 liter ( High Feature) motor. I rebuilt one, I know every part of these POS engines GMs poor design. GM hs become crooks, they have it where they tell you in the factory service manual to replace the head bolts, the rod bolts and the flywheel or flexplate bolts designing them when the stretch so they are only good for 1 tightening, They have a huge section in their manual telling you how to rethread bolt holes because when you tear them apart sometimes the thread screw up, or they were so tight from the factory they have already disfigured the threads from the torque force, They tell you to replace the 2 fuel lines which are stainless steel, I had to take one off to separate the heads off the block, The lines are expensive and I saw no reason for replacing then, just in case I left the second line undisturbed , I was not going to replace more than one line if I did not have to, when I re assembled the motor, I re used the old stainless fuel line after examining it and it looking good, tightened it properly and watched it after installing it and starting the car, .... no leaks, so it seems to me to be BS from GM telling you that you have to replace them, common sense said NO, greed GMs said yes.. The next GM lie was called a PCV valve, on this motor probably cost GM 20 cents to make and will destroy your motor as in my case, I will explain. First off a normal PCV valve has a valve in it, it stops the air flowing one way to keep the flow always from the crankcase to the intake vacuum. There is usually a spring and a valve inside, the spring applies light pressure closing the valve, the vacuum from the motor overcomes the spring opening the valve when the motor is running venting the crankcase. This has been the design for decades. What did GM do in this motor, The probably spent 10 less than 20 cents stamping out 2 pieces of 20 gauge steel to form what looks like a PCV valve, but with nothing inside, no valve in what they call a valve. Their stupid greedy thinking to overcome the valve inside was to make the holes in the valve, ( one in the hose end and one in the valve cover end so frikin small they will clog by the time your warranty is out. This causes back pressure in the crankcase where it forces the oil splashing around in the crankcase and the un burned blow by gasses to back up into the inlet hose and end up in the large rubber boot feeding your throttle body, the crankcase vent is not suppose to flow backwards because the inlet hose is big enough to send too much oil from the crankcase, into the motor where it is burned, It won't be obvious but between oil changes it can leave you with 2 to 3 quarts left in the motor causing the timing chains to stress and stretch and overheating the motor places where it will cause damage and you will not know it is overheating in places such as the pistons and timing chains because the water cooling system keeps the block cool where the engine temp sensor is. In my case it ran low on oil and melted a piston, Oh did I forget to mention, the pistons have very little skirt and are light weight, and the idiots at GM had to put oil squirters to spray oil on each piston to keep them cool. You can't get the squirters either, mine broke from the piston coming apart, I had to braze it to fix it.
So when I rebuilt the motor I found an thick metal PCV valve my granddad who died in the 80s left me in a bunch of parts bins, it was solid and I cleaned it, turned it on my lathe to fit the valve cover hole and eliminated the PCV problem GM screwed up in their Greed. The engineers are idiots , or they are forced to cut costs so much they spare overall quality of what they make anymore, only caring about the bottom line while screwing their customer. After multiple complaints, their stupid service bulletin fix was to re design the right side valve cover gasket to block off most of the port to the PCV valve because too much oil splashed on their POS so called PCV valve and clogged it up, and they tell you to drill out the hose side hole and the 2 needle size holes to a larger size .056 for the 2 bottom holes and .076 for the top hole where the hose connects. I always owned Chevys, in the 60s and early 70s their engineering was great, Now GM is Junk, at least some of their models, This motor, and yes I spent a ton changing all the bolts because conveniently they would have been the hardest to get to if I did not do the recommended replacement and had issues with them breaking or coming lose. Oh one more complaint, Their stupid torqueing directions said to torque to a specific ft lb setting, then telling you to use a degree wheel to turn the bolt another 90 to 120 degrees on the bolts . So I thought that was BS I torqued the bolts per their instruction then in only one area of their factory service manual they slipped up and had just a torque setting with no degree wheel step. Turns out the one step torque ft lbs setting had the bolt the same tightness as the 2 step torquing, then using a degree wheel. In my opinion GMs way of making things harder to make people give up trying to fix them and to go buy another GM POS.
I hate to say it but Japan makes better cars, specifically Toyota. I have a Prius that has well over 300,000 miles and still gets 47 to 48 MPG. Yea there are issues from time to time, but they are small issues like coils, or the 12v battery and there is an issue where water can seep into the seams of the body at the hatch and cause electrical issues, nothing silicone will not fix though. The problem is you wont see the water till you remove the rear compartment where the spare tire is. Cars are hard enough to work on and troubleshoot, but it is worse when the car companies intentionally design them to be hard to fix, or more expensive with fancy bolts you can only tighten once according to them and they are junk after that. Among other parts like stainless steel fuel lines they lie you have to replace, I say use the old ones but check upon starting for leaks, I had none and still have none.
There is a saying. The love of money is the root of all evil. If you do not believe me after this review, just join Ebay, they will convince you what greed and evil is.
I had some issues with oil clogging up my air intake. I replaced it with a after market pcv valve. No more oil but I still seem to burn a lot of oil. I have to put a quart in every few weeks. No smoke from the exhaust or leaks from what I can tell. I check oil levels once a week now. Thanks for the info.
Way easier to get out than to go back in for me
The front port you called a valve is just the intake air port for the crankcase ventilation, there is no valve in it, and for that matter even the one in the back you could call a valve is not actually a valve unless you might call GMs idea of drilling very small holes in 2 stamped pieces of tin made to look like a PCV valve,( a valve) because there is nothing inside it, no spring and no valve., I guess the cheap money grubbing people who made it figured drilling 3 too small holes in it would regulate the flow and no spring would be needed, but the holes clog up and the pcv system stops working causing build up of crankcase pressure and oil being blown into the intake boot right past the air cleaner, over time you burn so much oil, your crankcase runs low on oil and the timing chains suffer first, stretching and throwing codes. I think their engineers came from Boeing.
Awesome video
this job honestly sucked to do, thanks for the good video
Thank you for your video. To install the injectors do I need to install the injectors and then the harness and the fuel rail afterwards. What is the order? Thank you very much.
Do you have a list of all the parts used?
Did you use new hold-down clips, or reused your old ones? If you reused the old ones, did they hold up for you?
Looking for clarification:
The metal "c-clip" type rings that are located on the injector, between the injector itself and the injector rail; does it actually have to somehow attach under the flat edge of the rail injector port to hold the injector to the rail?
Typically, the injector does mount to the rail, but I cannot figure out how I could possibly make that happen with these metal rings on the 2010 Enclave.
It seems that maybe it just sits against the injector port on the rail as a hold down device only.
When I removed the rails, they separated from the harnesses since this engine is so tight in the injector area. So i don't know exactly how they were.
Thank you.
Yes, exactly. The two “forks” act as springs to hold the injector down. There’s no direct connection of the C shaped things to the rail.
I believe it is recommended to get new ones, but I reused the old ones.
What happen if you don’t put em back
@@ederduarte7981 the injectors would be loose and you'll have gas leaks
I feel like you should mention putting the fuel pressure sensor back in when you put the high pressure lines back in. I almost tested for leaks before doing that. Did you put a new sensor in or use the old one?
Thanks! I ended up using the old sensor.
@@fiveyorks Very helpful video. Thank you!
Is that the same firing diagram for a 2012 Buick enclave
How do you get the injectors separated from the rail
What about the clips on the injector how does clip on the rail ?
Is this the same exact thing for a lacrosse 2010 ?
Hello, I am interested in knowing how much torque pressure the screws that hold the injector rails have
Gosh was so long ago I do not recall. Suggest to measure the bolt diameter and look up recommended torque for a medium strength bolt.
how did you get the injector/harness out? I've separate the rails from the injectors, I can't get them to remove as an assm. from the heads.
Yes, that was pretty hard getting those things out. I believe I actually cracked one piece of plastic on one of the harnesses. I seem to recall a lot of grabbing and trying to move the injectors back-and-forth to get them moving ever so slightly.
Once they start moving a little bit it’s just a matter of time.
I’m wondering if you may be able to put a small hose clamp or something else around the body of the injectors and use that as a way to pull on them. That way you would be pulling on the metal injector and not the plastic harness.
I’m not sure if you can get your hands down there to do this, but what about taking some rather thin nylon string and wrapping it around the body of injector five or six times and bringing it up and tying it around a piece of pipe or something long that can act like a lever. You might be able to just pry each one out. I’ve never tried that, but I’m just thinking out of the box :)
How the hell you get those front 3 out..I can't get ANY clearance what so ever 2017 Traverse
Your setup might have less room, it’s 7 years newer. Is there any way to fit a pry tool down there? I rewatched some of the video and saw that I tried to put zip ties around the fuel rail to pull it up. Maybe try something like that. Also, have you tried cussing and yelling yet? :)
you have 2 fuel pumps mechanical and electric
Is this the same for 2012 traverse
Yes it is
Why did you replace injecters
Injector no. 2 failed. The symptoms were huge amounts of smoke from exhaust and a misfire check engine code. The car would still run, but was quite a sight to see; embarrassing as well :)
Well that's good to know.I keep getting misfire on my 09.on number four getting this rail out isn't easy .
My gap on same side as yours was more than 1/4inch so i used bolts to bring it down lil by lil till it was flush im nit sure if that caused it but i had to take it off once i was done and all 3 rubber seals on top of injector were chewed up causing leak other side went in smooth but front just wouldnt go down any further i also didnt replace retaining clips not sure if that had something to do with leak
Me again even though i didnt get response to my other two questions but it doesnt matter, if you somehow plug harness that was on rail with 2 4 6 you plug it on 1 3 5 and vice versa what would that do cause i replaced my 6 injectors seals fuel pressure sensor and put it all back in took my time to seat it nicely since i chewed up my blue o rings first time around and car just cranks and cranks and after few trys i have to plug the battery charger and put it on boost to keep cranking but nothing happens i sprayed starting fluid and nothing happend car was fine before the swap i had missfire on 3 and i know it wasnt coil cause i replaced that coil month ago so i took out injector out and good googly moogly those things were caked up but anyway thats all i did so im thinkin what if i plugged wrong side to wrong side rail would that make the car not start its also giving me code for throttle possition sensor and 0420 code too which ill be fixing after this
Do you have to use sizing tool if the injectors are brand new i saw another video where guy used sizing tool on bottom of injector i asked him but his video is very old i havent got no response
Once i was done putting it together car had very slow crank and it wouldnt start checked engined codes and i had 11 codes 👀 really 4 but in repeat sequence so im back at square 1 . Question , do we really need to replace retaining clips , high pressure lines, and do we have to use sizing tool on bottom of injector not even sure what sizing tool does but i saw it in another video where im not getting no response so i figure i ask here maybe someone can chim in on that thank you