I would love to see the table build Chad. I tried those drawer joints using my table saw....it didn't go well. I'm glad there is a router bit for that.
Thanks for sharing the newsletter it always has good stuff as for the next video the table build sounds fun. The drawer bit sounds finicky, I have a locking miter bit with setup block and found it not worth the trouble and found easier ways to do what I wanted.
Thanks for all that Chad, I found it very enjoyable. Incidentally, if this helps, I think the confusion with the mitre saw is because it measures the cut from the 'vertical', ie the short axis of a board, whereas we tend to measure an angle from the longest axis, the 'horizontal', hence the complementary angle values. I like your bevel gauge solution but as you say, there's a greater likelihood for errors to creep in. Anyway, great vid, very educational. As for the next vid, I can't resist having a peek at your drawers. Cheers mate.
I was going to point out the same thing, that the miter saw scale displays the deviation from 90 degrees. It turns out that the miter saw angle equals one half of the angle at the circle's center point. I would like to see the router bit video, but I do not want to peek in Chad's drawers.
This video was great information for the non-math oriented wood worker. As a retired engineer and part-time math teacher, I tend to just calculate the measurements I need. Surprisingly, it's less confusing to me. I'd like to see the build video next. I've seen other videos about the router bit. Thanks for all you do. Bill
I want cake and eat it too. Let’s see both but, if I have to pick one the router bit would be my choice. I have the bit and many drawers need to be made. Thanks for the great video.
Hey Chad, thanks for doing the geometry it really helped me out. Also, that miter saw protractor is something I will be getting. I would like to see the router bit video next. Take care, great to see another video from you!
I have my 'Drawing' tools in the top drawer of my cabinet, in the shop ready to use. Accuracy is important. As you say, the bevel can be out just a tad to ruin the work. Table please. I have been so frustrated with setting up the lock mitre bit... Like you they sit in the drawer surrounded in cob webs. Happy New Year to you and the family
Or a shortcut to finding the angles is to divide 180 by number of pieces you want to use, ex. 180/60 = 30. This is how it is explained in my Delta Miter Saw manual. Yes, 360 divided by number of cut gives you the angle (on a geometry test), but , as you pointed out here, the saw's gauge is set perpendicular to the fence and not parallel. Therefore, divide 180 by number of cuts you want to make and you get the angle to set on the saw.
Steve 360 degrees in a circle. If you want 12 sides device 360 by 12=30. Devide 30 by 2=15. This makes it easier, faster and just as accurate. Try this-works ever time.
I tend to use algebra to get the values for lengths and angles, but you need to understand the geometry to make the correct calculations. And putting a ruler or protractor on a scale drawing is a good check on your calculations. For me, geometry and algebra go hand-in-hand.
I own 3 Starretts and their scales are too small to split for fractions. I also own a Sawset Pro Protractor and it is much larger and very easy to see and split into fractions. I highly recommend it!
now that you have worked out the sizes of the parts. haw do you convert a round table top to the new size ??? can please show us this being done , many thanks JB UK.
I always enjoy your videos and learn something every time. Another, more accurate, method of calculating the angle: There are 360 degrees in a circle. Divide 360 by the number of segments -- in the video there were 6 or 12 segments. This gives the total angle of each joint, 60 degrees for 6 segments or 30 degrees for 12. Then, since each joint is made up of two pieces (with the total joint angle divided between the two of them), divide the total joint angle by two. This gives the cut angle, 30 degrees for 6 segments or 15 degrees for 12. Why do I say that this method is more accurate? Because it reduces the chance of measurement error by half. As illustrated in the video, you need to first read the angle accurately from the drawing using the protractor and then, using that measurement, set up the miter saw accurately using the protractor. This gives two chances for a measurement error. With the 'pure math method', you know exactly the angle the miter saw needs to be set at. Then, whether you use the protractor or the miter saw's scale, you just need to set the saw to the calculated angle -- only one chance to misread the scale or protractor, not two. For example, let's say you wanted 5 segments. This requires a total joint angle of 72 degrees or a 36 degree cut angle (1/2 of 72). With most protractors, it can be very hard to read a 72 degree angle accurately. But, if you use the math method, you'll know that the total joint angle is 72 degrees (not somewhere between 70 and 74). And, you'll know that the miter saw needs to be set at 36 degrees. It can be hard to set the saw exactly to 36 degrees, but it can be done (with, perhaps, some trial and error). It's a lot easier to set the saw to the proper angle is you know exactly what you're shooting for, rather than working from a measurement that may be close, but not exact. HTH
Would love to see the drawer locking bit set up. I've got one in a drawer, too (pardon the pun), but haven't tried using it in forever. A couple more questions: How are your woodworking buddies doing (Safety Dan & Dennis) these days? Is there any concern with wood movement on the center of the table top pushing the banding circle apart at some point? Any updates on doing classes or is that still uncertain with the state of things? Thanks for all you do & share with everyone!
Dan is well. He's busy with his grandkids and work. Dennis is good. I see him every Thursday morning. We get together to talk shop. Great question on wood movement. Yes I have major concerns about it. I've been offered to sell it from several people but I am waiting a year to see if it give me problems.
The hardest part of translating from angle to miter is the concept of removing material. Angle finders give you the angle. Miter saws give you the material removal angle. Since 45 is so common. It happens that 45 angles are 45 cuts on the miter. If an angle is 80 degrees then you need to remove 10 degrees from the wood when the miter is set at 0. Any time the angle is not 45 then you must approach your cuts at the saw as if you are trying to remove material to reach the angle needed. Since the saw starts at 0 then every degree you add is a degree being subtracted from the woods starting angle of 90. Always be thinking at the saw how much so I want to remove from this 90 to get to the desired angle. It sounds weird but if you sit and think about it for a long period of time it will just click. The miter saw was designed to be zeroed out at 90. Any deviation from center is a subtraction from 90. A 0 degree cut on the saw gives a 90 degree angle or a square cut. The more you deviate away from center the more you deviate from 90. If the angle is obtuse at 120 degrees then you set you wood on the saw you know that you are starting at 90. If you move the angle left 30 degrees or right 30 degrees then you are adding 30 to 90 or subtracting 30 from 90. Try either way and notice the only difference is that the cut piece will fit both ways. One way will fit with the piece being picked up and placed as was placed and cut at the saw. The other way will require you to flip the piece so the other face is up and the shorter said is now facing the opposite way when it was at the saw. If you want a 20 degree angle then you would need to remove 70 degrees. Most saws don’t remove that much so you set up a fence that allows you to place your piece at 45 to the fence. From there you just subtract an additional 25 degrees and there’s your cut! That’s a slight bit more advanced but can be found when searching how to make small angle cuts on the miter saw. The big take home is to remember this: 90- angle wanted = miter saw angle If you use a mitre gauge, then follow the miter gauge and good to go with the shortcut!
Nope you are measuring the wrong segment. that is why your first 60 was wrong. Measure from the inside out , not outside in. Same with the redline angle. Your protractor should have been zeroed between the red ticks. Then the 90 deg inversion on your saw is compensated for.
I would like to see the drawer build please. Thank you for the videos and keep on making them.
Math for woodworkers is something ive been looking for for years now. Thank you!
Always enjoy your video teaching...I would love to see the drawer locking bit video first.
Ad usual love your videos!
Drores next please!!!
Very informative! Thank you!
I would love to see about the drawer router bit! Thank you for sharing!🙌
good job
Brings me back to 10th grade! Geometry is so important in carpentry. I really enjoyed the demonstration!!
Now I get it! Thank so much Chad! And I want to see both.
exelente ilustracion amigo ,exelente
I would love to see the table build Chad. I tried those drawer joints using my table saw....it didn't go well. I'm glad there is a router bit for that.
Ditto - Happy New Year - thanks. If like to see the table build.
Thank you sir. My wife was telling me the answer before you could finish. LOL. Happy New Year sir. Show them all sir. I will be watching.
I wish your wife could have told me the answers. She would have saved me a lot of headaches. 🤣 Thanks for watching.
Where you been, Chad? I miss your videos.
Space aliens took me for a while. But now I'm back :-)
@@ChadStanton hahaha 🤣
Great refresher of middle school math! There are a few pops in audio. Example at 17:08. Enjoy seeing another video from you as always.
Yes sometimes that happens. I'm not sure why. Thanks for watching
Happy New Year!
I would love to see a build video of the small table.
Both!
Happy New Year! Thanks for all you do for woodworkers.
Thank you so much. I truly appreciate your comment
nice job explaining. especially for the length and width. i do miss safety dan
Another great video Chad. Extremely informative. Thank you
I would love to see the table build Chad.
I happen to have a drawer bit like that and have never used it. That would be a great video. Thanks for your info.
Thanks for sharing the newsletter it always has good stuff as for the next video the table build sounds fun. The drawer bit sounds finicky, I have a locking miter bit with setup block and found it not worth the trouble and found easier ways to do what I wanted.
Thanks for all that Chad, I found it very enjoyable. Incidentally, if this helps, I think the confusion with the mitre saw is because it measures the cut from the 'vertical', ie the short axis of a board, whereas we tend to measure an angle from the longest axis, the 'horizontal', hence the complementary angle values. I like your bevel gauge solution but as you say, there's a greater likelihood for errors to creep in. Anyway, great vid, very educational. As for the next vid, I can't resist having a peek at your drawers. Cheers mate.
I was going to point out the same thing, that the miter saw scale displays the deviation from 90 degrees. It turns out that the miter saw angle equals one half of the angle at the circle's center point.
I would like to see the router bit video, but I do not want to peek in Chad's drawers.
This video was great information for the non-math oriented wood worker. As a retired engineer and part-time math teacher, I tend to just calculate the measurements I need. Surprisingly, it's less confusing to me. I'd like to see the build video next. I've seen other videos about the router bit. Thanks for all you do.
Bill
Nice job ... well explained. I teach woodturning, specializing in segmented work ... I do this stuff just about every day!
I want cake and eat it too. Let’s see both but, if I have to pick one the router bit would be my choice. I have the bit and many drawers need to be made. Thanks for the great video.
I'd love to see the table, since I dont have a router yet. lol and I want to know if the dark band was laminate?
It was epoxy. And there was a reason I decided to use it. Another mistake and cover-up :-)
Hey Chad, thanks for doing the geometry it really helped me out. Also, that miter saw protractor is something I will be getting. I would like to see the router bit video next. Take care, great to see another video from you!
I have my 'Drawing' tools in the top drawer of my cabinet, in the shop ready to use. Accuracy is important. As you say, the bevel can be out just a tad to ruin the work. Table please. I have been so frustrated with setting up the lock mitre bit... Like you they sit in the drawer surrounded in cob webs. Happy New Year to you and the family
Love it
Or a shortcut to finding the angles is to divide 180 by number of pieces you want to use, ex. 180/60 = 30. This is how it is explained in my Delta Miter Saw manual. Yes, 360 divided by number of cut gives you the angle (on a geometry test), but , as you pointed out here, the saw's gauge is set perpendicular to the fence and not parallel. Therefore, divide 180 by number of cuts you want to make and you get the angle to set on the saw.
table please!!
Steve
360 degrees in a circle.
If you want 12 sides device 360 by 12=30.
Devide 30 by 2=15.
This makes it easier, faster and just as accurate.
Try this-works ever time.
Yes sir, thank you for the tip. Always more than one way to solve a problem :-)
I tend to use algebra to get the values for lengths and angles, but you need to understand the geometry to make the correct calculations. And putting a ruler or protractor on a scale drawing is a good check on your calculations.
For me, geometry and algebra go hand-in-hand.
Does anyone know the best web site for measurements for cutting segments for each layer length for segmented lathe turning.
I own 3 Starretts and their scales are too small to split for fractions. I also own a Sawset Pro Protractor and it is much larger and very easy to see and split into fractions. I highly recommend it!
Good to know! Thank you Tool Man :-)
now that you have worked out the sizes of the parts. haw do you convert a round table top to the new size ??? can
please show us this being done , many thanks JB UK.
Drawer WOULD BE GREAT
I always enjoy your videos and learn something every time.
Another, more accurate, method of calculating the angle: There are 360 degrees in a circle. Divide 360 by the number of segments -- in the video there were 6 or 12 segments. This gives the total angle of each joint, 60 degrees for 6 segments or 30 degrees for 12. Then, since each joint is made up of two pieces (with the total joint angle divided between the two of them), divide the total joint angle by two. This gives the cut angle, 30 degrees for 6 segments or 15 degrees for 12.
Why do I say that this method is more accurate? Because it reduces the chance of measurement error by half. As illustrated in the video, you need to first read the angle accurately from the drawing using the protractor and then, using that measurement, set up the miter saw accurately using the protractor. This gives two chances for a measurement error. With the 'pure math method', you know exactly the angle the miter saw needs to be set at. Then, whether you use the protractor or the miter saw's scale, you just need to set the saw to the calculated angle -- only one chance to misread the scale or protractor, not two.
For example, let's say you wanted 5 segments. This requires a total joint angle of 72 degrees or a 36 degree cut angle (1/2 of 72). With most protractors, it can be very hard to read a 72 degree angle accurately. But, if you use the math method, you'll know that the total joint angle is 72 degrees (not somewhere between 70 and 74). And, you'll know that the miter saw needs to be set at 36 degrees. It can be hard to set the saw exactly to 36 degrees, but it can be done (with, perhaps, some trial and error). It's a lot easier to set the saw to the proper angle is you know exactly what you're shooting for, rather than working from a measurement that may be close, but not exact.
HTH
Drawer would be first choice
Would love to see the drawer locking bit set up. I've got one in a drawer, too (pardon the pun), but haven't tried using it in forever. A couple more questions:
How are your woodworking buddies doing (Safety Dan & Dennis) these days?
Is there any concern with wood movement on the center of the table top pushing the banding circle apart at some point?
Any updates on doing classes or is that still uncertain with the state of things?
Thanks for all you do & share with everyone!
Dan is well. He's busy with his grandkids and work. Dennis is good. I see him every Thursday morning. We get together to talk shop. Great question on wood movement. Yes I have major concerns about it. I've been offered to sell it from several people but I am waiting a year to see if it give me problems.
Table first, then the drawers. Thanks for the videos!
Hint: Drew Fisher would have cut down his neighbor's tree to get a wider, longer slab. lol
I'm pretty sure my HS geometry would have stuck better if they'd taught it in woodshop instead of in math class 🤣
Great video 👏
The hardest part of translating from angle to miter is the concept of removing material. Angle finders give you the angle. Miter saws give you the material removal angle. Since 45 is so common. It happens that 45 angles are 45 cuts on the miter. If an angle is 80 degrees then you need to remove 10 degrees from the wood when the miter is set at 0. Any time the angle is not 45 then you must approach your cuts at the saw as if you are trying to remove material to reach the angle needed. Since the saw starts at 0 then every degree you add is a degree being subtracted from the woods starting angle of 90. Always be thinking at the saw how much so I want to remove from this 90 to get to the desired angle. It sounds weird but if you sit and think about it for a long period of time it will just click. The miter saw was designed to be zeroed out at 90. Any deviation from center is a subtraction from 90. A 0 degree cut on the saw gives a 90 degree angle or a square cut. The more you deviate away from center the more you deviate from 90. If the angle is obtuse at 120 degrees then you set you wood on the saw you know that you are starting at 90. If you move the angle left 30 degrees or right 30 degrees then you are adding 30 to 90 or subtracting 30 from 90. Try either way and notice the only difference is that the cut piece will fit both ways. One way will fit with the piece being picked up and placed as was placed and cut at the saw. The other way will require you to flip the piece so the other face is up and the shorter said is now facing the opposite way when it was at the saw. If you want a 20 degree angle then you would need to remove 70 degrees. Most saws don’t remove that much so you set up a fence that allows you to place your piece at 45 to the fence. From there you just subtract an additional 25 degrees and there’s your cut! That’s a slight bit more advanced but can be found when searching how to make small angle cuts on the miter saw.
The big take home is to remember this:
90- angle wanted = miter saw angle
If you use a mitre gauge, then follow the miter gauge and good to go with the shortcut!
why the extra length on the individual sections? is it surplus for cleaning, or is there a mathematical reason? i cant work it out.
Drawers please
Table
Los cajones Chad 😁
Drawer please Chad
Thanks chad show me the Drawers
i cant do math, and i think about things backwards, so might have to get one of those.
Matters not to me which is first, I'm just adding to the comment count!
thank you my friend!
@@ChadStanton My pleasure!!!
i vote drawers. thanks.
Drawers, drawers, drawers....Please
Drawers.
Did I just see Chad??
Did you? Or was it just your imagination? :-)
Nope you are measuring the wrong segment. that is why your first 60 was wrong. Measure from the inside out , not outside in. Same with the redline angle. Your protractor should have been zeroed between the red ticks. Then the 90 deg inversion on your saw is compensated for.
Mmmmm I don't doubt you. I'm no math expert. But I'm not totally clear on your description. Could you send me a picture and explain it more?
Needs more dancing!
Hahaha well taken.
Drawers , please!
Table