Great video, thanks a lot! Did this job last summer on a 4x4 1.6tdi cr and on a 4x4 2.0tdi cr. Just a tip for anyone who will do it at home, remove the subframe. Buy and use VW guiding pins/bolts for the subframe bolts and you don't have to do a wheel alignment afterwards. But do NOT move the steering wheel at all (strap it so it wont move). When subframe is removed completely, you have a ton of space and probably wont take any longer time either. Helps a lot and you don't need assistant either. Doing this job without guiding pins will probably mean a wheel alignment job when finished. Removing the subframe is key to this job. Done it a couple of times now, and it is so fast to remove it that it actually is done in maybe 30-45min. I would guess that fiddling without subframe removal will take longer time than that 😊
Great video. Really appreciate the detail and effort it took to post it. Hope I don't have to do this job soon . I have two Passat TDIs. Both still under warranty.
Trying to replace my turbo. Hate how you have to take everything out including the egr cooler since that pass side coolant line blocks the manifold from coming off the stud. Great video. Thanks
@@TEAMR4ULTVgreat video! Could you tell me how easy it is to remove the cylinder head? Apart from the head bolts, Do I just have to remove the exhaust manifold bolts to take it off? Thanks
Hello so how long did it actually take to do because I'm in 4hrs now and I just got to the egr valve and still have to take out the exhaust still but the video is great it helped me alot and now I know what else to take of so looks like another 3hr to go thanks for making this video it helped out alot Sr 👏👏👏
Thank you for a very detailed video. Just a question: would you advise dropping off engine/transmission assembly with subframe and do the rest on the ground?
@@Tommy-dy6hf al be honest with you if all the bolts come off nice and easy then I would say you dont need too much experience just follow the steps on the video. The only trouble is when things are siezed up then you need to be patient
Thanks for the video. I’m doing this one currently. Low on power, and oil leaking. Had one mechanic say the turbo was leaking oil, and another stating the dpf was clogged. Neither really wants to do the job. Have decided to do it myself. Just finished dropping the DPF. Turbo does not seem to have leaking oil at the intake nor outlet. Egr seems to be where the oil leak is coming from. Will try to confirm oil leak / burning location and proceed. May just go ahead and replace all 3. Any other thoughts and or advice?
I’ve got the r-line blue motion 2013 passat . My engine management light was coming on and going off so I took it to my local garage who deal with Vw, Audi, Skoda, seat and they’ve diagnosed that my egr valve which is water cooled is knackered so I’m having it deleted and whilst they are doing that I’m having the stage 1 map done. I love my b7 passat. It has full service history, has 56k on the clock and this time next year it would be on its 3rd timing belt from factory, I don’t do the miles so I go with the 5 years
@@TEAMR4ULTV Hi can I ask what was the cause of this problem to make you change all these parts ? Was it down to carbon build up ? Do you know if the EGR on this passat can be cleaned whilst it’s still on the car using wynns off the car DPF cleaning solution.
@@MrTheomighty1 truthfully it was just the Egr VALVE at fault but this customer is a bit OCD he wanted everything changed. Thanks for watching really appreciate it please don't forget to like Share and subscribe
Bro! You just saved me! Got a crazy estimate on this, watched your video, and pulled this beast out in the driveway. Couldn’t have done it without you! Now to replace it.....
Brilliant video. Doing on the floor on ramps got dpf off which was a right pain with lack of height now got turbo off but have realised I definitely need to take drive shaft of. Is it just the centre nut and the Allen bolts
I'm just wondering if you can let me know where the two pipes go which are on the dpf sensor as I could see where the 2nd one was attached to the dpf but I can't see where the second one goes?
Hi great video can you tell me where the air intake temperature sensor is in a 1.6tdi seat Toledo?its throwing up the p0113 code and reading -40 degrees Centigrade,thanks.
If your just doing the EGR valve you can do it without taking the driveshaft off, but trust me it's a struggle, your better off taking the shaft off trust me.
To take the driveshafts off take the centre hub bolt off should be a 27mil socket or a multi spline, Take the 3 balljoint nuts off Then the inner bolts holding the driveshaft, should be M8 or M10 multi spline torque
@@TEAMR4ULTV I just unbolted it from the transmission and put it aside. Didn’t mess with the ball joints. It was on a Golf but I think you can do the same with the Passat.
and remember you also need all seals, cooling fluid+bleed, oil top up etc.. wanted to clean egr cooler in my bmr Pass. Then I just remind myself how much work it is... and I skip,,, especially working with car on the ground,
Great job mate. I bought a Passat b8 from auction recently and looks like has got same problem, it runs but doesn’t drive I mean you can drive it very little, to move the car around you have to push it, showed to 3 mechanics, one of them says is dpf another one says is the turbo the third one said it’s something else so I’m stuck with this car be honest
I have a 2014 Passat 2.0TDI with a P00AF00. Car has no power and it appears to be leaking black oil/diesel from the bottom. I’m aware that these vehicles had a TSB regarding bad turbos, unfortunately in outside of the recall mileage. Any suggestions to diagnose if I indeed need a turbo for the vehicle?
@@TEAMR4ULTV I just did the delete this past weekend, found that if I loosened the subframe like you suggested and unbolted that bottom bracket from the DPF, it came out without too much trouble with halfshaft still in place. Your video helped me greatly thank you!
Was the engine high pitch noise whist revenge I’ve just fitted a turbo and the same noise is there after new turbo because it sounded like a whistle from turbo
Beautiful stuff! Extremely informative, comprehensive and concise, yet easy to follow instructional video - exactly what I needed to replace my EGR (2014 2.0 ltr turbo diesel beetle). Genuine thanks for taking the time and effort to (painstakingly) shoot and upload this video, which I'm sure will help plenty of people (who may be up a well known creek, with a leak and no paddle!). 😎👍
The oil leak was from the cam shaft oil seal. I think I have done a video on this car. Cam & crank shaft oil seal Replacement. Please check it out thanks
btw m8... really good vid and detailed with your desc. and comments. Wanted to clean pipes to and egr cooler, but can see, it will take more than half hour, So... I let it be :/
Hehe, this is a really big job and a PITA also. I wouldn't be surprised if a workshop would charge approx 3-5000 gbp parts included (oil, bolts, nuts, seals, coolant, turbo, egr cooler and labour) Well, at least thats would the price in Norway at dealership.
@@TEAMR4ULTV I appreciate your reply and very helpful video, while I am in Switzerland, still thinking hard to buy original parts or aftermarket, considering that my car is 2012 with 200k kilometer, quite old. 2 month ago I changed DPF and Catalyst, actually only Catalyst is clogged, but just changed both. and 2 weeks ago, an error pops up : P0299, which sent the car to limp home mode, I cleaned the code and start the engine again, it is fine, but after 1 day, same code appeared and sent my car to limp home mode again, so I am quite sure the Turbo is broken.
Hi Raul. I've previously worked with you, I've got a 2011 b7 volkswagen passat 2.0l diesel. The turbo was making a whistling noise then started to rattle as well then lost all power. It makes the rattling noise now but the whistling has stopped do you have any idea what this could be.? Thanks
Thanks for watching, they are pretty reliable depends what you use it for. If your gonna use it for normal day to day use then they are fine. For taxi 100k already too much
Wow that's a real costly job. How do you feel about using Mr muscle oven cleaner on everything. Let it sit and pressure washer after the DPF back through the front? About 2 extra hours in cleaning Vs new parts. (They go back on like new) do you think this is an underline cause that is making these parts clog prematurely and doing this without finding the cause will make it happen again? Just curious. I have DPF issues as we speak 3.0 TDI 240 CEXA. I just had it re coded was incorrect before. I think and hope that is my cause of the clog.
To be honest I have heard of the mr muscle thing, you van give it a try. As far as these engines are concerned they are all like that, not only these but pretty much all diesel go this way in time.
@@TEAMR4ULTV yea I had it with all diesels Lexus is220d needs EGR cleaning every service. Its design blocks from behind and stops the plunger from fully closing. This builds up worse and worse the more the valve stays open! My 3.0 TDI just got back from being re coded correctly. Now it has no fault codes but runs hot. Before it was running so rich the DPF is clogged. I'm going to use Mr muscle first before even removing it
Search Roadside DPF cleaning. This video shows a O Reilly Auto cleaning the DPF in place with a liquid dpf cleaner.. There is a similar video showing a guy using easy off bbq cleaner to clean his DPF in place.
@@timmills5496 nice, yea I've done it a few times now using mr muscle oven cleaner, probably same stuff as bbq cleaner some white foam. Egr and pipes, turbo exhaust side then free veins by hand multiple times, even taken o2 sensor out and put some in before the dpf let it sit for a while and turn the carbon to liquid that blows out the back after. No good cleaning a vacuum operated egr before you check the vacuum holds pressure I've done that before then had to buy a new one and do the job again. Would have taken 2 mins before if I thought. Its way better than any off the shelf cleaning product. I know because it burns your skin and the warning label on the back is intense. That's a good thing.
Its pretty hard some of the bolts are really hard to get at. Also make sure you replace the rectangular oil return gasket under turbo, if you use the old one it will leak. Thanks for watching.
Raul thanks for video, but i wish to give some negative feedback which you can hopefully take on board and turn it into positive. In general the video is ok but your camera is moving around too much and so quickly so at times its hard to follow and irritating to watch. Also see 3:50, you miss key steps like removing the jubilee clips and the electronic connections, it would be better to show the short clips of you removing them rather than saying they have now been removed, show it happening, it goes along way and will improve your videos. Sorry no offence and thankyou.
Thanks for the feedback. Sometimes it's so tight in there under the car engine etc it's hard for me to get the camera in there and show you plus take the part off that's why I just explain it. Anyway al try to show you next time Thanks for watching.
@@TEAMR4ULTV you are right, and thankd for responding. I guess if you just slow down abit and show short clips of removing the parts step by step that will help a lot, also could do with decent lighting when filming. Keep up the great work!!
Great video, thanks a lot! Did this job last summer on a 4x4 1.6tdi cr and on a 4x4 2.0tdi cr. Just a tip for anyone who will do it at home, remove the subframe. Buy and use VW guiding pins/bolts for the subframe bolts and you don't have to do a wheel alignment afterwards. But do NOT move the steering wheel at all (strap it so it wont move). When subframe is removed completely, you have a ton of space and probably wont take any longer time either. Helps a lot and you don't need assistant either. Doing this job without guiding pins will probably mean a wheel alignment job when finished. Removing the subframe is key to this job. Done it a couple of times now, and it is so fast to remove it that it actually is done in maybe 30-45min. I would guess that fiddling without subframe removal will take longer time than that 😊
Best video I could find for my 2011 Jetta TDI. Awesome stuff!
totally agree, this is a great video, super helpful. Thank you !
Great video. Really appreciate the detail and effort it took to post it. Hope I don't have to do this job soon . I have two Passat TDIs. Both still under warranty.
Thanks for watching.
Feel like this job would be easier if you removed the engine first
Nice Tips, i was able to remove it without taking out driveshaft or lowering the frame, but not easy at all.
any tips on how to do it without removing the driveshaft or lowering the frame? I’m installing a dpf straight pipe so ik i can cut it
@@mycozepeda6583 Just pushing it, gently, and i was able to take it out.
Trying to replace my turbo. Hate how you have to take everything out including the egr cooler since that pass side coolant line blocks the manifold from coming off the stud. Great video. Thanks
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
@@TEAMR4ULTVgreat video! Could you tell me how easy it is to remove the cylinder head? Apart from the head bolts, Do I just have to remove the exhaust manifold bolts to take it off? Thanks
@seemaab thanks for watching really appreciate it. Exhaust and inlet Manifold along with all the pipes and ancillarys
Thanks... now I'm ready to get started
Hello so how long did it actually take to do because I'm in 4hrs now and I just got to the egr valve and still have to take out the exhaust still but the video is great it helped me alot and now I know what else to take of so looks like another 3hr to go thanks for making this video it helped out alot Sr 👏👏👏
Thank you for a very detailed video. Just a question: would you advise dropping off engine/transmission assembly with subframe and do the rest on the ground?
20+ year Audi/VW tech here: The quickest easiest way to do any of this type of work is complete eng/tran assy. removal.
@@audib5drvr what a luxurious way of thinking😂
@@the_famous_reply_guyEasy as that!
thanks for the video it vas very helpful and good explanation
Is it much effort to swap back the dpf after a aftermarket downpipe has been fitted for an emissions test
It's not the easiest job in the world but easier than Replacing EGR or Turbo
@@TEAMR4ULTV could it be done with very little mechanical experience
@@Tommy-dy6hf al be honest with you if all the bolts come off nice and easy then I would say you dont need too much experience just follow the steps on the video. The only trouble is when things are siezed up then you need to be patient
@@TEAMR4ULTV thanks, ya shouldn't have much trouble there with it been seized as its only after been fitted but off she has to come again 😔
@@Tommy-dy6hf then you should be ok
Thanks for the video. I’m doing this one currently. Low on power, and oil leaking. Had one mechanic say the turbo was leaking oil, and another stating the dpf was clogged. Neither really wants to do the job. Have decided to do it myself. Just finished dropping the DPF. Turbo does not seem to have leaking oil at the intake nor outlet. Egr seems to be where the oil leak is coming from. Will try to confirm oil leak / burning location and proceed. May just go ahead and replace all 3. Any other thoughts and or advice?
I’ve got the r-line blue motion 2013 passat . My engine management light was coming on and going off so I took it to my local garage who deal with Vw, Audi, Skoda, seat and they’ve diagnosed that my egr valve which is water cooled is knackered so I’m having it deleted and whilst they are doing that I’m having the stage 1 map done. I love my b7 passat. It has full service history, has 56k on the clock and this time next year it would be on its 3rd timing belt from factory, I don’t do the miles so I go with the 5 years
That's great hope it works out well. It's True you get attached to certain cars I used to love my 1st fiat punto mk1
@@TEAMR4ULTV Hi can I ask what was the cause of this problem to make you change all these parts ? Was it down to carbon build up ? Do you know if the EGR on this passat can be cleaned whilst it’s still on the car using wynns off the car DPF cleaning solution.
@@MrTheomighty1 truthfully it was just the Egr VALVE at fault but this customer is a bit OCD he wanted everything changed. Thanks for watching really appreciate it please don't forget to like Share and subscribe
@@TEAMR4ULTV so if your customer did have OCD and he had it deleted and remapped would the EGR work again
@@MrTheomighty1 maybe would have worked but I dont do that. Dont have the software to do it.
Best video out there.
Bro! You just saved me! Got a crazy estimate on this, watched your video, and pulled this beast out in the driveway. Couldn’t have done it without you! Now to replace it.....
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Brilliant video. Doing on the floor on ramps got dpf off which was a right pain with lack of height now got turbo off but have realised I definitely need to take drive shaft of. Is it just the centre nut and the Allen bolts
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. You have to take the CENTER bolt off, Allen bolts off and ball joint off
I'm just wondering if you can let me know where the two pipes go which are on the dpf sensor as I could see where the 2nd one was attached to the dpf but I can't see where the second one goes?
I need the exact same doing to my 2013 2.0 tdi golf mk7 how much do you charge parts and labour
Hi great video can you tell me where the air intake temperature sensor is in a 1.6tdi seat Toledo?its throwing up the p0113 code and reading -40 degrees Centigrade,thanks.
Watching this Ive gained a new liking for electric cars :)
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
The heck with that! But it sure made me miss my '71 Mustang.
Amazing job done by specialist 👍
Excellent job, thanks for all the details in this video. Right to the point.
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Excelente muy beiente felizito un 100 bendiciones
Great video!
Brother where are you located I have same issue need to sort it out on my vw Passat 17 plate 1.6 tdi
Godsend, thanks so much
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Really good video, how do you keep track of all the nuts and bolts though???
I dont know just experience I guess
Experience
Great job.
Many thanks fort sharing experiences.
Patrice fromager Moselle in France.
well done i know its hard job
Nice job thanks
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Good to see where the bolts and things are on the egr to remove it. Do I need to remove the driveshaft to do JUST that?
If your just doing the EGR valve you can do it without taking the driveshaft off, but trust me it's a struggle, your better off taking the shaft off trust me.
To take the driveshafts off take the centre hub bolt off should be a 27mil socket or a multi spline,
Take the 3 balljoint nuts off
Then the inner bolts holding the driveshaft, should be M8 or M10 multi spline torque
@@TEAMR4ULTV I just unbolted it from the transmission and put it aside. Didn’t mess with the ball joints. It was on a Golf but I think you can do the same with the Passat.
and remember you also need all seals, cooling fluid+bleed, oil top up etc.. wanted to clean egr cooler in my bmr Pass. Then I just remind myself how much work it is... and I skip,,, especially working with car on the ground,
Thanks for the video. absolutely fantastic and very informative 👏
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Where could I go about getting a turbo kit? Turbo with all required gaskets and bolts? Going to be tackling this bad boy here shortly.
The best place for parts, I would recommend TPS VW genuine parts
Great job mate. I bought a Passat b8 from auction recently and looks like has got same problem, it runs but doesn’t drive I mean you can drive it very little, to move the car around you have to push it, showed to 3 mechanics, one of them says is dpf another one says is the turbo the third one said it’s something else so I’m stuck with this car be honest
hey! how did it go?
@@BoKKeR111following
I have a 2014 Passat 2.0TDI with a P00AF00. Car has no power and it appears to be leaking black oil/diesel from the bottom. I’m aware that these vehicles had a TSB regarding bad turbos, unfortunately in outside of the recall mileage. Any suggestions to diagnose if I indeed need a turbo for the vehicle?
Mostly likely it's the turbo, or the intercooler pipes are full of oil in that case I would say it's the turbo
Is it necessary to remove the driveshaft to remove DPF? Can you get those bolts with a box wrench?
Hi thanks for watching maybe you can take the bolts off but you will be struggling to take the DPF out
@@TEAMR4ULTV I just did the delete this past weekend, found that if I loosened the subframe like you suggested and unbolted that bottom bracket from the DPF, it came out without too much trouble with halfshaft still in place. Your video helped me greatly thank you!
I have a 2014 vw Passat with egr issues plus I believe the turbo needs replacing can you advise on cost
I would charge about £200 Labour
@@TEAMR4ULTV we need u in America buddy
Was the engine high pitch noise whist revenge I’ve just fitted a turbo and the same noise is there after new turbo because it sounded like a whistle from turbo
Check the inter cooler pipes
Beautiful stuff! Extremely informative, comprehensive and concise, yet easy to follow instructional video - exactly what I needed to replace my EGR (2014 2.0 ltr turbo diesel beetle). Genuine thanks for taking the time and effort to (painstakingly) shoot and upload this video, which I'm sure will help plenty of people (who may be up a well known creek, with a leak and no paddle!). 😎👍
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Agreed! I've got this job coming up and this video has given me a lot more confidence/hope to tackle the task
You saved me alot of time and money, my man 10/10❤️💯
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Where was the oil leaking from?
The oil leak was from the cam shaft oil seal. I think I have done a video on this car. Cam & crank shaft oil seal Replacement. Please check it out thanks
btw m8... really good vid and detailed with your desc. and comments. Wanted to clean pipes to and egr cooler, but can see, it will take more than half hour,
So...
I let it be :/
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. To be honest I think you could take the pipes off, shouldn't take too long about an hour tops
Hi how much would you charge to replace dpf with downpipe, I'm not far from Hyde
Hehe, this is a really big job and a PITA also. I wouldn't be surprised if a workshop would charge approx 3-5000 gbp parts included (oil, bolts, nuts, seals, coolant, turbo, egr cooler and labour) Well, at least thats would the price in Norway at dealership.
I'm going to do the same to my VW Sharan 2012 TDI.
May I ask, which brand is your new EGR AND TURBO?
are they original or aftermarket?
Thanks
Thanks for watching really appreciate it. The customer bought them from the main dealer. If your in uk he bought them from TPS vw and Audi group
@@TEAMR4ULTV I appreciate your reply and very helpful video, while I am in Switzerland, still thinking hard to buy original parts or aftermarket, considering that my car is 2012 with 200k kilometer, quite old.
2 month ago I changed DPF and Catalyst, actually only Catalyst is clogged, but just changed both.
and 2 weeks ago, an error pops up : P0299, which sent the car to limp home mode, I cleaned the code and start the engine again, it is fine, but after 1 day, same code appeared and sent my car to limp home mode again, so I am quite sure the Turbo is broken.
wow bro great job sir
Thanks for watching really appreciate it
Hi Raul.
I've previously worked with you, I've got a 2011 b7 volkswagen passat 2.0l diesel. The turbo was making a whistling noise then started to rattle as well then lost all power. It makes the rattling noise now but the whistling has stopped do you have any idea what this could be.?
Thanks
Hi mate, I think it will be the Turbo spindle collapsed inside the turbo. So in think you need a turbo
Ok thank you. Do you know how much turbo's cost.? Also would you advise againt driving the car until I've got a new turbo.? Thanks
@@stuartsmirk9246 to buy a new Turbo I think about £300 and I would not drive it.
Ok thank you once again.. I wasn't planning on driving it now.
@@TEAMR4ULTV morning Raul do you have a phone number I could talk to you please.?
What a nightmare of a job, how much on Labour would you normally be looking at ? Turbo replace
To be honest we charge about £300 labour for this job
Are these engines reliable? I’m looking at a Tiguan with over 100k miles
Thanks for watching, they are pretty reliable depends what you use it for. If your gonna use it for normal day to day use then they are fine. For taxi 100k already too much
Looks like you're local to me. (Judging by the Radio Cars taxi)
How much does a job like that cost?
If you want everything changing your looking about £300
That's labour
Easier to remove the torq bolt holding the intake tube rather then the jubilee clamp.
Maybe but I find it easier this way, thanks for watching really appreciate it
You're charging to little for all that labour £400 sounds about right thanks to the Tories 😂
Lol
Wow that's a real costly job. How do you feel about using Mr muscle oven cleaner on everything. Let it sit and pressure washer after the DPF back through the front? About 2 extra hours in cleaning Vs new parts. (They go back on like new) do you think this is an underline cause that is making these parts clog prematurely and doing this without finding the cause will make it happen again? Just curious. I have DPF issues as we speak 3.0 TDI 240 CEXA. I just had it re coded was incorrect before. I think and hope that is my cause of the clog.
To be honest I have heard of the mr muscle thing, you van give it a try.
As far as these engines are concerned they are all like that, not only these but pretty much all diesel go this way in time.
@@TEAMR4ULTV yea I had it with all diesels Lexus is220d needs EGR cleaning every service. Its design blocks from behind and stops the plunger from fully closing. This builds up worse and worse the more the valve stays open! My 3.0 TDI just got back from being re coded correctly. Now it has no fault codes but runs hot. Before it was running so rich the DPF is clogged. I'm going to use Mr muscle first before even removing it
Search Roadside DPF cleaning. This video shows a O Reilly Auto cleaning the DPF in place with a liquid dpf cleaner.. There is a similar video showing a guy using easy off bbq cleaner to clean his DPF in place.
@@timmills5496 nice, yea I've done it a few times now using mr muscle oven cleaner, probably same stuff as bbq cleaner some white foam. Egr and pipes, turbo exhaust side then free veins by hand multiple times, even taken o2 sensor out and put some in before the dpf let it sit for a while and turn the carbon to liquid that blows out the back after. No good cleaning a vacuum operated egr before you check the vacuum holds pressure I've done that before then had to buy a new one and do the job again. Would have taken 2 mins before if I thought. Its way better than any off the shelf cleaning product. I know because it burns your skin and the warning label on the back is intense. That's a good thing.
Bro did you delete the dpf and egr
I plugged the diagnostic on and did a full reset
How much would you charge for just a turbo replacement if already got the turbo
Your looking around about £150 to £200
@@TEAMR4ULTV where you based mate I'm in burnley Lancashire
@@rctodayukshaun4817 am in Manchester, Hyde
Now I see why it costs $3000 to replace these parts. And now I know why I don’t want a TDI.
With me would be; Turbo replacement. Egr delete and dpf bypass....😈
Looks tough enough... give it a go some weekend its giving good weather. Cheers for the informative video. 👌😎
Its pretty hard some of the bolts are really hard to get at. Also make sure you replace the rectangular oil return gasket under turbo, if you use the old one it will leak. Thanks for watching.
Step 1 remove the DPF…step 2 throw in in the trash
Lol
Raul thanks for video, but i wish to give some negative feedback which you can hopefully take on board and turn it into positive. In general the video is ok but your camera is moving around too much and so quickly so at times its hard to follow and irritating to watch.
Also see 3:50, you miss key steps like removing the jubilee clips and the electronic connections, it would be better to show the short clips of you removing them rather than saying they have now been removed, show it happening, it goes along way and will improve your videos.
Sorry no offence and thankyou.
Thanks for the feedback. Sometimes it's so tight in there under the car engine etc it's hard for me to get the camera in there and show you plus take the part off that's why I just explain it. Anyway al try to show you next time
Thanks for watching.
@@TEAMR4ULTV you are right, and thankd for responding. I guess if you just slow down abit and show short clips of removing the parts step by step that will help a lot, also could do with decent lighting when filming.
Keep up the great work!!
Looks like its got a leaky oil seal aswell
what a pain in the ass job guy !
If you haven't done if before it is a pain.
Looks like 10lbs of parts packed into a 5lb bag...no thanks