watched a lot of these videos and you are the first one to show the idea of putting the panels together overlapped to make the final cut so they are exactly even, awesome technique. Thanks for sharing that
paneljigman...most people don't realize that the real reason modern cars are mig only is because of the type of steel, which is HSLA or simply high strength steel. High strength steel is made of fine grains(molecules) of steel and the closer molecular bonds because of small particles give it its strength. When exposed to long durations of high heat the steel reconfigures into coarse steel molecules which have weaker bonds.This means gas welding destroys the structural integrity of new vehicles. You are right about the value of zinc rich coatings on the backside of panels burning off as a negative...that's why there was a move to glue panels on and tack them in a few strategic spots. I liked the quality of your job on this video...especially the "stitch welding". Usually good welders have a programable stitch function or like most guys...just use the trigger! Cheers!
i am currently rebuilding a classic mini, never welded before, and have to change nearly all the front end and all inner and outer seals.... thank you for posting this video, it will be very helpful to me indeed.
What a great video and technique, I just learn a lot, I am a welder but never work on cars before, after watching this video it opens a wide range of possibilities to do a lot of repair in my cars, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
Hi, thanks for your comment. it's really a matter of personal preference. A lot of panelbeaters prefer the stitch-gap-stitch-gap method, but I get on better using the start-stop technique. I get less distortion with this method. Eddie
Hi, Thanks for your comment. I have seen other methods used but have been doing it this way for some years as I get the most consistant results with it Eddie .
I've been noodling getting one of those everlast pulse mig welders too. Not too many videos on using pulse properly. Apparently it can reduce the HAZ but you need to set it up properly to ensure proper penetration.
Beautiful welding. Interesting you recommend to leave a gap. There are a lot of videos saying to butt up tight but I was taught to leave a gap the same thickness as the metal to allow expansion and reduce warping,the point you make. One thing is for sure,can't argue with results,there was no warping and job finished out beautifully.
@vochitoken I use 0.6mm wire. On my machine the minimum setting is 14.75 volts @ 15 amps. I don't use the stitch/ delay settings, just trigger. I always use some scrap offcuts to set up the voltage and wire speed settings for each job. Obviously the setting would differ for each machine, but start at the lowest setting and check for penetration. Eddie
Hi Heather, I used a generic air powered hacksaw with a piece of 1/2 inch 32 t.p.i. blade. These type of air saws are widely available through many different equipment suppliers under many different brand names. Eddie
I've been thinking about getting an Everlast pulse mig welder. I want one more for other reasons but came across this video and was wondering if pulse would help in this application. Nice to see a video from someone who has experience with welding panels.
I have to remove the rear 1/4 panel window surrounds to repair a rust hole & damage which is located in behind the rear passenger seat belt Anchorage points. The car is a 1986 Holden VL Commodore which was basically an Opel Rekord which had been restyled & the power trains from the previous Holdens ( Torana & Kingswood) shoved into them in 1978. Mine looks like a restyled 1977 model Opel Rekord & was the first unleaded six cylinder Holden which didn't run the Holden six at all,it ran the Nissan RB30 engine & E4N71B auto ,MF5 or MX7 (for turbo models) manual transmission, the 5 litre V8 model still ran the Holden engine & Trimatic automatic (same as the Opel 3 speed auto) or T5 Borg Warner 5 speed manual transmission. The Nissan engine saved Holden from closure as they scoured the world for an unleaded six,with the Buick V6 & Jaguar in line six being the other options.
Hi, Yep, your right. I have started using a m.i.g. brazed slip joint method on some joints, because some car manufacturers prefer that method, but find it more time consuming and I tend to get more distortion. I suppose that's why most panelbeaters prefer the butt welding method. I probably need more practice. Eddie
Yeah, these saws are light and small so they get into tight corners. I do tend to wear them out quickly, but they are not too expensive,to replace. Eddie
Awesome, and very clean. Could you describe your method for bridging the gap? Perhaps a short video? I've tried many times and seem to always blow a hole in it. I do better with butting metal together,but then have more distortion to deal with. Thanks
I use what referred to as 'stitch'. Start well into side 'A', drag your puddle to side 'B'. You'll see it cool then repeat the process from the side A. A heat sink clamped behind if possible
Hi, Yes, I use the saw in the video for most panel cutting jobs. I use an ordinary 32 teeth half-inch hacksaw blade trimmed to a suitable length. Eddie
Yep, very true, have to keep the heat to a minimum or it will destroy the shape (warp the metal, I don't know the right word, English is my second language).
I have check all hardware store locally from Home depot, canadian's tire, lowes and etc.. They only carry the big reciprocating saw not the mini size. Is it electric or air compressor??
Putting filler over a welded joint is a big no no due to water getting in behind the joint if you can't get to the back of it to seal it off, resulting in bubbling paintwork....
Hi David, thanks for your comment. As long as there are no pinholes in the weld there should be no problem with water causing the paintwork to bubble. I have never had this occur in any welded joint. \eddie
really good video. am trying to learn MIG welding but have a long way to go. seems that one moment my practice is good, then the next try it's rubbish or burning through.
+David Cooper Thanks for your comment. I still manage to burn through sometimes. Welding panel metal can be very frustrating when it goes wrong but satisfying when it goes right.Eddie
machine settings are one of the most overlooked things for beginners. check and see if your machine has a chart. it really helps. been welding for 10 years i still use it to get my settings very close and fine tune from there. keep at it and happy welding!
Hi Daniel, thanks for your good advice. Also I like to use a section of offcut panel as a practice piece to help finalise the mig settings, before welding the panel. This allows me to check for good penetration. Eddie
Young Jay i use harbor freight stuff all day.. cheap enough so if it wears out just get another. on the extended warranty. Now if you are a professional welder, i'd recommend a miller or lincoln welder.
I know it's a little late, but would a 110v small mig welder be good for panel work such as this? I have an 85 Mustang that I'm going to have to replace the sunroof on w/ a donor roof. Thanks!
Hi Dusty, I have no personal experience of using a 110v mig, but I would expect a good quality machine to cope with Mustang panel metal with no problems. Eddie
Yes, i use 110V Lincoln welder for all my body work. You're not welding structural steel building! Lol Even a 110V welder will blow holes through your sheet metal, if your set up inst right
Hi Clinton, The air saw shown in the video should be widely available at any air tool supplier. If you can't find one locally, there are plenty on the net. Eddie
Thanks for your comment.The correct method to use for this type of job is the method the car manufacturer approves. If the manufacturer says bonding or rivet bonding should be used, then that's the way to go. Many car manufacturers still prefer spot welding. Eddie
Hi Ben, sorry for the late reply. I did not use a backing plate for this job. I know some people prefer to use them, but I prefer not to unless a car manufacturer insists on it. Some do and some don't. Thanks for the comment. Eddie
you wouldn't want to work on my car would you? After spending $20,000 on my chevelle to hack jobs who think they know what they're doing, it's nice to see someone who's actually good.
,,Blacharz,, przyciął elementy na styk i pospawał ciągłym spawem -brawo ! - element przegrzany ,blacha rzucona , za pół roku w tym miejscu będą dziury ......... dużo by pisać .....
Cu si weld is preferred by some people and for a brief time recommended by manufacterers. Nowadays you see it less and less. Copperwelding is an art of its own and has a bigger startup temp and more difficult heat control. Not something for the average guy. Mig/mag welding is fine, you have spray the inside with an anti rustcorrosion anyway. The bondo on the outside has a anticorrosoin function also. After that its prime and painted. Burning the zinklayer is something you can't avoid
Hi Martin, thanks for your comment. Here in the U.K. professional repairers are required to follow car makers preferred methods when repairing their products. Most car makers insist on m.i.g./m.a.g. welding when replacing 1/4 panels. Eddie
Hi Jeff, thanks for your comment. There are several different methods for joining panels, each method has its benefits or disadvantages, this video just shows one of many methods that many car makers recommend. Eddie
well first let me say that you did a great job with a real nice fit up and of course the finished product was great too BUT you just cant do that that weld is so weak after you ground it flush its garunteed to break sooner or later , you should have put a backer plate in behind it , it would have made that job so much better and it would have been even better yet if you would have parked the wire feed and got out the gas torch and brazed it
The "real" panel beaters don't use mig welders. Always gas and the best don't even use a welding rod of any kind. And they certainly don't use bog. Always lead.
not quite true...what they do is use a copper coated mild steel welding rod. Then they forge the weld with a hammer and dolly. Then they pick and file the area and use no filler of any kind. On the first day of our second level apprenticeship we each got a hood(bonnet) and had to cut out a 4"x4" section, gas weld it back in and finish it filler free...we had 2 hours to do it. In this video the steel on the vehicle is likely HSLA ( high strength low alloy) and therefore can receive limited amounts of heat,thats why he mig welded it. Mig weld is a harder weld than the aforementioned and it does not lend itself to forging, it will also crack easier than a gas weld.
Since they stopped putting led in paint led filling has also stopped because it doesnt bond at all well with these newer paints. I used to beleive that led was the right filler until watching these custom car shows on cable.No- one uses led anymore.
No one uses lead because you have to have the skill to use lead. and to have the skill to use lead you must first have the skill to straighten metal without using any filler...and quite honestly lead is pretty toxic. You are not quite correct that they use lead in car paint to bond to lead filler. I can explain how that works. There are only two main ways that any sprayed coating will adhere to what you are spraying it on. One is called "mechanical adhesion" where the surface has been sanded or "roughed up" so that a coating can find grip in the microscopic valleys that have been created by sanding. The other is by "chemical adhesion" which can apply to what goes over the primer that you covered metal with. In "chemical adhesion" it is the solvent that you thin the topcoat with (to make it sprayable) that re-softens the coat of material that you are covering, so that a chemical bond forms. In the bad old 60's you would be spraying laquer primer and covering it with laquer paint...same solvent for both = a chemical bond. Modern paints are mostly mechanical, adhesion by sanding. Now back to lead. Shortly after applying lead, it turns from shiny to dull. As long as you sand it and keep it shiny you have about twenty minutes to prime it with whatever before a greasy film covers it and it goes dull. I hope this explains !
Sorry...one more thing. Modern metals since the advent of HSLA steel (high strength low alloy) in the 80's, means steel is thinner, virtually unworkable and can't be heated with oxy-acetylene for shrinking/metal working. So lead will be a no-no on 80's and newer vehicles anyway.
Filler allows a straighter surface and better paint finish ultimately. Look at any full metal body car next to a filled and blocked vehicle and i guarentee the bogged vehicle is straighter
watched a lot of these videos and you are the first one to show the idea of putting the panels together overlapped to make the final cut so they are exactly even, awesome technique. Thanks for sharing that
Hi, sorry for the late reply. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment, I'm gad you liked the video. Eddie
paneljigman...most people don't realize that the real reason modern cars are mig only is because of the type of steel, which is HSLA or simply high strength steel. High strength steel is made of fine grains(molecules) of steel and the closer molecular bonds because of small particles give it its strength. When exposed to long durations of high heat the steel reconfigures into coarse steel molecules which have weaker bonds.This means gas welding destroys the structural integrity of new vehicles. You are right about the value of zinc rich coatings on the backside of panels burning off as a negative...that's why there was a move to glue panels on and tack them in a few strategic spots. I liked the quality of your job on this video...especially the "stitch welding". Usually good welders have a programable stitch function or like most guys...just use the trigger! Cheers!
Thanks for the good info.
i am currently rebuilding a classic mini, never welded before, and have to change nearly all the front end and all inner and outer seals.... thank you for posting this video, it will be very helpful to me indeed.
What a great video and technique, I just learn a lot, I am a welder but never work on cars before, after watching this video it opens a wide range of possibilities to do a lot of repair in my cars, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
Most proffesional job I have seen on here and a different way I notice than I HAVE BEEN DOING IT . rather impressed myself.
Much respect Eddie, really needed to listen to your commentary so unfortunately couldn't turn the sound off. Thanks
Hi, thanks for your comment. it's really a matter of personal preference. A lot of panelbeaters prefer the stitch-gap-stitch-gap method, but I get on better using the start-stop technique. I get less distortion with this method.
Eddie
This shows a nice end to process in a short space of time, a good "how to vid". thanks for sharing this vid!
Hi,
Thanks for your comment. I have seen other methods used but have been doing it this way for some years as I get the most consistant results with it
Eddie
.
Hi, thanks for the comment. I'm glad the video was a help.
Eddie
Great tips and technique... I wish more videos were like this
subscribed... what a brilliant idea. saw through both panels. leaves the expansion gap and everything.... now just to learn to weld. many thanks.
I've been noodling getting one of those everlast pulse mig welders too. Not too many videos on using pulse properly. Apparently it can reduce the HAZ but you need to set it up properly to ensure proper penetration.
we have a panel shop pro where i work and he does it exactly like you, brilliant work and very efficient mate, awesome video
Beautiful welding. Interesting you recommend to leave a gap. There are a lot of videos saying to butt up tight but I was taught to leave a gap the same thickness as the metal to allow expansion and reduce warping,the point you make. One thing is for sure,can't argue with results,there was no warping and job finished out beautifully.
Hi Andrew, thank you for your kind comment. I'm glad you liked the video. Eddie
Ya, definitely leave a small gap when butt welding. If not, you'll raise the chances of warpage
Nice video. You made it look so easy!
Hi, thank you for your kind comments.
Eddie
I like the saw too it appeared to be rather controlable and precise
Gonna have to try this with my PowerIMIG welder. Thanks for the tips!
@vochitoken
I use 0.6mm wire. On my machine the minimum setting is 14.75 volts @ 15 amps. I don't use the stitch/ delay settings, just trigger. I always use some scrap offcuts to set up the voltage and wire speed settings for each job. Obviously the setting would differ for each machine, but start at the lowest setting and check for penetration.
Eddie
Hi Stu, I'm glad the videos helped.
Eddie.
Great info and technique, thank you for posting.
That's good how you show how to cut the metal so the seams line up well. A nice trick.
I haven't seen any pulse mig videos anywhere either. The powerimig welders with pulse got me interested. I'd like to see some videos!!
Hi Heather, I used a generic air powered hacksaw with a piece of 1/2 inch 32 t.p.i. blade. These type of air saws are widely available through many different equipment suppliers under many different brand names.
Eddie
beautiful work . thanks for posting this video.
I've been thinking about getting an Everlast pulse mig welder. I want one more for other reasons but came across this video and was wondering if pulse would help in this application. Nice to see a video from someone who has experience with welding panels.
finally someone using an air saw..not a dang grinding wheel,,thats how its done son.
Air saw
Is that what it called? Air saw?
I have to remove the rear 1/4 panel window surrounds to repair a rust hole & damage which is located in behind the rear passenger seat belt Anchorage points.
The car is a 1986 Holden VL Commodore which was basically an Opel Rekord which had been restyled & the power trains from the previous Holdens ( Torana & Kingswood) shoved into them in 1978.
Mine looks like a restyled 1977 model Opel Rekord & was the first unleaded six cylinder Holden which didn't run the Holden six at all,it ran the Nissan RB30 engine & E4N71B auto ,MF5 or MX7 (for turbo models) manual transmission, the 5 litre V8 model still ran the Holden engine & Trimatic automatic (same as the Opel 3 speed auto) or T5 Borg Warner 5 speed manual transmission.
The Nissan engine saved Holden from closure as they scoured the world for an unleaded six,with the Buick V6 & Jaguar in line six being the other options.
Hi,
Yep, your right. I have started using a m.i.g. brazed slip joint method on some joints, because some car manufacturers prefer that method, but find it more time consuming and I tend to get more distortion. I suppose that's why most panelbeaters prefer the butt welding method. I probably need more practice.
Eddie
What kind and settings for the welder? Mine doesn't go that low, it instantly blows a hole in mild steel. Thanks awesome video
what a perfect replacement and video, but don't you think the weld was a little on the cold side ?
@rayray123ray69
I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for your comment.
Eddie
That's alot of heat build up with the mig. always alternate?
Very nice. Thanks for sharing for us DIY’ers.
Hi Asa, thank you for your kind comment. Eddie
GREAT JOB..LARRY FROM INDIANAPOLIS..
Hi Larry, Thanks for your nice comment. Eddie
Wow good job thats what iam looking for thanks
I thought that for body work it's best to stitch weld to avoid the overheating and warpage
Yeah, these saws are light and small so they get into tight corners. I do tend to wear them out quickly, but they are not too expensive,to replace.
Eddie
CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT CUTTER AN BLADE!
That is really nice work. Very informative video.
Awesome, and very clean. Could you describe your method for bridging the gap? Perhaps a short video? I've tried many times and seem to always blow a hole in it. I do better with butting metal together,but then have more distortion to deal with. Thanks
I use what referred to as 'stitch'. Start well into side 'A', drag your puddle to side 'B'. You'll see it cool then repeat the process from the side A. A heat sink clamped behind if possible
Hi,
Yes, I use the saw in the video for most panel cutting jobs. I use an ordinary 32 teeth half-inch hacksaw blade trimmed to a suitable length.
Eddie
what kind of saw is this?
looks so small and good for precise cutting job.
@@dwightlee6164 This is an air powered hacksaw.
Yep, very true, have to keep the heat to a minimum or it will destroy the shape (warp the metal, I don't know the right word, English is my second language).
I have check all hardware store locally from Home depot, canadian's tire, lowes and etc.. They only carry the big reciprocating saw not the mini size. Is it electric or air compressor??
wow i never knew how to do that!! i always thought body shot just had a good cut!
very nice i want more for video for pillers and roof thanks
For replacing rocker panel for a jeep, this is the same technique? thanks
Where can get that mini reciprocrating saw? I cannot really find one that you're using..
what brand of cutting tool is that? I think the proper tools are half the job...
Hi, Can i use a reciprocating saw to cut sheet metal and panel... I'm working on 240sx nissan..
Putting filler over a welded joint is a big no no due to water getting in behind the joint if you can't get to the back of it to seal it off, resulting in bubbling paintwork....
Hi David, thanks for your comment. As long as there are no pinholes in the weld there should be no problem with water causing the paintwork to bubble. I have never had this occur in any welded joint. \eddie
paneljigman , use a fiberglass based filler. It is waterproof. Tom
really good video. am trying to learn MIG welding but have a long way to go. seems that one moment my practice is good, then the next try it's rubbish or burning through.
+David Cooper Thanks for your comment. I still manage to burn through sometimes. Welding panel metal can be very frustrating when it goes wrong but satisfying when it goes right.Eddie
machine settings are one of the most overlooked things for beginners. check and see if your machine has a chart. it really helps. been welding for 10 years i still use it to get my settings very close and fine tune from there. keep at it and happy welding!
Hi Daniel, thanks for your good advice. Also I like to use a section of offcut panel as a practice piece to help finalise the mig settings, before welding the panel. This allows me to check for good penetration. Eddie
Can you recommend type of steel panel gauge and flux wire type?
Great video!
Thanks!
Nice job mate, that's exactly as i join quarters too. Car looks like a 5 door fiesta, is it?
Nice work m8 well done.
Thank you for your kind comment.
Eddie
Hello What is the tool that cuts the panel?
Can I use a chicago electic mig welder to do this job and the rest of the quater panel including half the trunk with no worries?
Young Jay i use harbor freight stuff all day.. cheap enough so if it wears out just get another. on the extended warranty. Now if you are a professional welder, i'd recommend a miller or lincoln welder.
Nawww...only a Kansas City Mig welder will do the job.
looks cool but I don't get it. how can the new panel fit over the old one??
Very good work👏👏
Hi Malik, thank you for your kind comment. Eddie.
🌹🌹👍👍🇵🇰
Have you ever used an everlast pulse mig welder for thin sheet metal working?
I have never actually heard of such a machine.
Eddie.
Great video!!!
may i ask what wire size your using?
Great tips! Thank u.
Awesome video thanks
I know it's a little late, but would a 110v small mig welder be good for panel work such as this? I have an 85 Mustang that I'm going to have to replace the sunroof on w/ a donor roof. Thanks!
Hi Dusty, I have no personal experience of using a 110v mig, but I would expect a good quality machine to cope with Mustang panel metal with no problems.
Eddie
Thank you, I appreciate your opinion on that!
Yes, i use 110V Lincoln welder for all my body work. You're not welding structural steel building! Lol
Even a 110V welder will blow holes through your sheet metal, if your set up inst right
Thank you.
Eddie
Nice video, thank you
Hi Yota, thank you for the kind comment.
Eddie
Thanks right to it no mindless talking
Thank you for your kind comment.Eddie
jesus christ dam good video simple brilliant answer to a question ive been thinking about
Thanks for your comment, I'm glad the video was of help.
Eddie.
Hi, paneljigman
where can I buy the tool you've used to cut the metal on this Video?, Very good video. do more like this. Thanks.
Hi Clinton, The air saw shown in the video should be widely available at any air tool supplier. If you can't find one locally, there are plenty on the net.
Eddie
Your information is not helpful, but thanks.
well done, meticulous
Thank you for your nice comment. Eddie
Thank you.
What kinda saw is that
What is the saw that you are using?
+gary24752
For this kind of panel cut I use an air powered hacksaw with a half inch 32tpi blade.
most places don't weld the spot welds back they use panel bond even icar says panel bond.
Thanks for your comment.The correct method to use for this type of job is the method the car manufacturer approves. If the manufacturer says bonding or rivet bonding should be used, then that's the way to go. Many car manufacturers still prefer spot welding. Eddie
good vid
Cool vid great job
What kind of saw is that? Where can I find one?
A Sabre saw.
That is an Air Body Saw, you can find them pretty easily.
Did not see a backing plat before panel being welded
Hi Ben, sorry for the late reply. I did not use a backing plate for this job. I know some people prefer to use them, but I prefer not to unless a car manufacturer insists on it. Some do and some don't. Thanks for the comment. Eddie
what is it filled with?
Hi Connor, the joint was finished off with bodyfiller. Eddie
@@paneljigman thanks for the reply
Excelente
Thank you for your kind comment. Eddie
Me too!
Eddie
Why not use tig welding butt joint ,superb job...
Thanks for your comment.Actually I have never used a tig welder, and most car makers still require this type of joint to be mig welded. Eddie
Nota 10 parabéns
nice technique but whats up with the music, seriously
Shouldn't you spread the lenght of the cut not across it too ....ommm
Perfec
Thank you for your kind comment.
Eddie
*can you do a video on ass joints next ?*
you wouldn't want to work on my car would you? After spending $20,000 on my chevelle to hack jobs who think they know what they're doing, it's nice to see someone who's actually good.
,,Blacharz,, przyciął elementy na styk i pospawał ciągłym spawem -brawo ! - element przegrzany ,blacha rzucona , za pół roku w tym miejscu będą dziury ......... dużo by pisać .....
Don`t weld mig/mag method because you will burn all zinc layer which is responsible for corrosion. Use brazing with CuSi wire and argon as gas shield.
Pawel Socha can you make a video on this?
Thank you, that helped a lot in my repair! will share..use brazing not MIG on car repairs!
Cu si weld is preferred by some people and for a brief time recommended by manufacterers. Nowadays you see it less and less. Copperwelding is an art of its own and has a bigger startup temp and more difficult heat control. Not something for the average guy. Mig/mag welding is fine, you have spray the inside with an anti rustcorrosion anyway. The bondo on the outside has a anticorrosoin function also. After that its prime and painted. Burning the zinklayer is something you can't avoid
Good informative vid, but sorry annoying background music.
Do what Nike says
Just Tig it!
Hi Martin, thanks for your comment. Here in the U.K. professional repairers are required to follow car makers preferred methods when repairing their products. Most car makers insist on m.i.g./m.a.g. welding when replacing 1/4 panels.
Eddie
lap joint is better and stronger with 3m structural adhesive
Hi Jeff, thanks for your comment. There are several different methods for joining panels, each method has its benefits or disadvantages, this video just shows one of many methods that many car makers recommend. Eddie
Wouldn't you have to use a crapload of filler to hide the overlapping "seam" after the repair?
well first let me say that you did a great job with a real nice fit up and of course the finished product was great too BUT you just cant do that that weld is so weak after you ground it flush its garunteed to break sooner or later , you should have put a backer plate in behind it , it would have made that job so much better and it would have been even better yet if you would have parked the wire feed and got out the gas torch and brazed it
The "real" panel beaters don't use mig welders. Always gas and the best don't even use a welding rod of any kind. And they certainly don't use bog. Always lead.
not quite true...what they do is use a copper coated mild steel welding rod. Then they forge the weld with a hammer and dolly. Then they pick and file the area and use no filler of any kind. On the first day of our second level apprenticeship we each got a hood(bonnet) and had to cut out a 4"x4" section, gas weld it back in and finish it filler free...we had 2 hours to do it. In this video the steel on the vehicle is likely HSLA ( high strength low alloy) and therefore can receive limited amounts of heat,thats why he mig welded it. Mig weld is a harder weld than the aforementioned and it does not lend itself to forging, it will also crack easier than a gas weld.
Since they stopped putting led in paint led filling has also stopped because it doesnt bond at all well with these newer paints. I used to beleive that led was the right filler until watching these custom car shows on cable.No- one uses led anymore.
No one uses lead because you have to have the skill to use lead. and to have the skill to use lead you must first have the skill to straighten metal without using any filler...and quite honestly lead is pretty toxic. You are not quite correct that they use lead in car paint to bond to lead filler. I can explain how that works. There are only two main ways that any sprayed coating will adhere to what you are spraying it on. One is called "mechanical adhesion" where the surface has been sanded or "roughed up" so that a coating can find grip in the microscopic valleys that have been created by sanding. The other is by "chemical adhesion" which can apply to what goes over the primer that you covered metal with. In "chemical adhesion" it is the solvent that you thin the topcoat with (to make it sprayable) that re-softens the coat of material that you are covering, so that a chemical bond forms. In the bad old 60's you would be spraying laquer primer and covering it with laquer paint...same solvent for both = a chemical bond. Modern paints are mostly mechanical, adhesion by sanding. Now back to lead. Shortly after applying lead, it turns from shiny to dull. As long as you sand it and keep it shiny you have about twenty minutes to prime it with whatever before a greasy film covers it and it goes dull. I hope this explains !
Sorry...one more thing. Modern metals since the advent of HSLA steel (high strength low alloy) in the 80's, means steel is thinner, virtually unworkable and can't be heated with oxy-acetylene for shrinking/metal working. So lead will be a no-no on 80's and newer vehicles anyway.
why do folks always think these things need 'music'....totally unnecessary.
if the job was that good , whats with all the filler ,,,,
tom thompson filler is always needed no matter what
lead it and be done ,,,, very rare i reach for filler ,,, just a body file , ah , how times change ,,, great result to a modern standard.
Filler allows a straighter surface and better paint finish ultimately. Look at any full metal body car next to a filled and blocked vehicle and i guarentee the bogged vehicle is straighter