VW uk has now come in line with Europe in saying the cambelt on petrol cars does not need changing until 150,000 miles and similar mileage for diesel engines
I have a 10yr old Vw UP and im going to change the belt as a precaution as i dont know when it was last done. I watched this vid and other ones, it looks to me like the 2 camshaft marks should be at "12 o clock" position in line with marks on the block and not together as indicated in this vid, hence having to force the plastic tool in between the cam sprockets? Anyone?
With the crank locking pin and water pump locking tool in place the camshaft wheel timing marks should line up. You only need to loosen the cam pulley wheel bolts if they don't, which is rare.
Theyre easy enough to fit. Just gotta be 100% lined up as the tool is a very precise fit. Try pushing down on the belt to turn the camshafts towards each other if it wont go in. Failing that just fit the tool after removing the belt. Can be a pain ti fight against the valve springs but the tool can only go in one way so you know timing is correct 👍
My sister took her perfectly running car to have a full service and a timing belt, now the car won't start and they told her there's something wrong with the sump or the crankshaft and it could be expensive, mmm smelly rats
The plastic tool between the pulleys is to only hold them when installing the new belt onto them. The pulley bolts should be slackened prior to this. Before tightening the tensioner the plastic tool between the pulleys should be removed. Leaving just the cam shafts and crank locked and pulleys now free to rotate just slightly when tensioning belt.
Yes the main dealer workshop manual says to leave them to freely rotate. But as I say the pulleys are not circular they are triangle shaped, which means as the workshop manual also says they need to be in the exact same place at the end of the job as they were at the start. Unlike a lot of engines where you lock the cams gearbox side and the pulleys are circular shaped so they can free wheel to remove slack from the belt or chain as you fit it as the pulleys often have no timing marks, ford zetec engine springs to mind. This is not the case with this engine. The pulleys are triangle shaped with marks that need to align to each other. If the pulleys end up out of alignment to each other even though the cams were locked gearbox side, then the result will be the belt being slack at one moment following being stretched the next. As I say I advise following the workshop manual but I personally think trying to rest it back will be more awkward.
@@j.f5212 yeh i do understand that. When doing the tensioner up the movement is minimal. When rechecked after tensioner tight and 2 rotations of the crank. The slightly staggered dots across both pulleys were in same place as from factory before i removed the belt. Good video still thou. Also i had no trouble getting tool on end of cam past the hose. Was just a chinese kit
If you look at one the cam pulleys are triangular. It confused me at first but it makes sense, when the belt is turning and fighting the valve springs, the triangular edges of the pulleys take up the slack so the belt is less stressed
Why you need the locking tool on the other side where the water pump is ? Is only the red locking plastic not enough? Oh shit i had already typed my message Before reading the comments 😂
The Skoda dealer has just done the second cam belt change on the 2015 Citigo, I really like to know what is going on so thank you. They said originally that it needs changing at 5 years or 160,000 miles but VW have changed their policy and say it is now not part of the service, do you just leave it? I was not happy so got it done for good measure.
It's not always the belt which can fail, if the idler or tensioner seize then the belt is coming off. I'm taking in general not about this specific model. To my mind it's best just to change them.
Thanks, I would upload it in higher quality but seem unable too from the mobile app . Or I can't figure it out. If anyone knows how too let me know Also look up the locking tool from draper tools. Looks easier to use and be able to see what you are doing.
Just had a Google, I used a "laser all drive socket" from laser part number 3594. It says "This special Alldrive Socket Set has a unique V type profile that fits HEX/MM/AF/STAR and SPLINE fixings"
Do you have to put crank locking pin in before removing crank pulley? If not, do you line up cam timing marks and put plastic locking tool in and then the crank locking pin? Or do you set cam marks first then crank locking pin, turn the crank onto the pin and then camshaft plastic locking tool?
I found the crank sprocket/ cog is keyed to the crank shaft, so you can loosen the crank bolt then hand tighten it to spin it to the lock pin position, I always fear mushrooming the locking tool if impacting against it, then it won't come out. Unlike some makes like ford where the cog is not keyed to the crank you have to be more careful about knowing the crank timing position with ford. I would loosen the crank bolt with an impact gun. Turn the engine to Top dead centre and fit the camshaft tools. Worst case should you have issues you could always remove the spark plug on cylinder 1 and turn the engine with a screwdriver in the spark plug hole to confirm top dead centre. And the camshaft tool gearbox side only goes in 1 way aswell to easy enough to reset the timing should anything move while working on it. Hope this helps.
@@j.f5212 thanks mate, so just to recap. Turn crank just before TDC (just before cam shaft timing marks line up) fit crank locking pin, turn crank over onto the locking pin. Fit camshaft locking tool, remove belt 👍
I don't know, possibly i think the manual is written as if the engine is having a top end rebuild. But i can't see why you would just for a belt change.
VW uk has now come in line with Europe in saying the cambelt on petrol cars does not need changing until 150,000 miles and similar mileage for diesel engines
That's good, the easiest thing is to pop that top cover off and have a look at the belt. Over time it will degrade irrelevant of mileage.
I have a 10yr old Vw UP and im going to change the belt as a precaution as i dont know when it was last done. I watched this vid and other ones, it looks to me like the 2 camshaft marks should be at "12 o clock" position in line with marks on the block and not together as indicated in this vid, hence having to force the plastic tool in between the cam sprockets? Anyone?
With the crank locking pin and water pump locking tool in place the camshaft wheel timing marks should line up. You only need to loosen the cam pulley wheel bolts if they don't, which is rare.
I would asssume it's good practice to chanke the cam modulator though.
Theyre easy enough to fit. Just gotta be 100% lined up as the tool is a very precise fit. Try pushing down on the belt to turn the camshafts towards each other if it wont go in. Failing that just fit the tool after removing the belt. Can be a pain ti fight against the valve springs but the tool can only go in one way so you know timing is correct 👍
My sister took her perfectly running car to have a full service and a timing belt, now the car won't start and they told her there's something wrong with the sump or the crankshaft and it could be expensive, mmm smelly rats
The plastic tool between the pulleys is to only hold them when installing the new belt onto them. The pulley bolts should be slackened prior to this. Before tightening the tensioner the plastic tool between the pulleys should be removed. Leaving just the cam shafts and crank locked and pulleys now free to rotate just slightly when tensioning belt.
Yes the main dealer workshop manual says to leave them to freely rotate. But as I say the pulleys are not circular they are triangle shaped, which means as the workshop manual also says they need to be in the exact same place at the end of the job as they were at the start. Unlike a lot of engines where you lock the cams gearbox side and the pulleys are circular shaped so they can free wheel to remove slack from the belt or chain as you fit it as the pulleys often have no timing marks, ford zetec engine springs to mind. This is not the case with this engine. The pulleys are triangle shaped with marks that need to align to each other. If the pulleys end up out of alignment to each other even though the cams were locked gearbox side, then the result will be the belt being slack at one moment following being stretched the next. As I say I advise following the workshop manual but I personally think trying to rest it back will be more awkward.
@@j.f5212 yeh i do understand that. When doing the tensioner up the movement is minimal. When rechecked after tensioner tight and 2 rotations of the crank. The slightly staggered dots across both pulleys were in same place as from factory before i removed the belt. Good video still thou. Also i had no trouble getting tool on end of cam past the hose. Was just a chinese kit
That belt can last 250.000 km's
The original is a special one.
I suspect the idler or tensioner bearings will fail before the belt
If you look at one the cam pulleys are triangular. It confused me at first but it makes sense, when the belt is turning and fighting the valve springs, the triangular edges of the pulleys take up the slack so the belt is less stressed
@@chongy9895
Hm never noticed that
@@chongy9895 Yes, it's another efficiency device to squeeze as much mechanical advantage as possible
Thanks for the video. I was wondering about my seat mii with 33500 miles 5 1/2 years old. Don't think it's an issue yet.
take the top cover off just 2 torx bolts and look at the belt.
No way not an issue for a long time. Belts on these engines last a very long time. Official maintenance schedule is 160k miles for a belt change
Thank you
If not slacking the pulleys you would only need to fit the tool between pulleys and not bother with the rear cam locking tool. Just a thought
Yes correct, although the tool is plastic Vs the metal one gearbox side. But I suspect you're right the plastic one would hold it just fine.
Why you need the locking tool on the other side where the water pump is ?
Is only the red locking plastic not enough?
Oh shit i had already typed my message Before reading the comments 😂
The Skoda dealer has just done the second cam belt change on the 2015 Citigo, I really like to know what is going on so thank you. They said originally that it needs changing at 5 years or 160,000 miles but VW have changed their policy and say it is now not part of the service, do you just leave it? I was not happy so got it done for good measure.
It's not always the belt which can fail, if the idler or tensioner seize then the belt is coming off. I'm taking in general not about this specific model. To my mind it's best just to change them.
super helpful thank you
Thanks, I would upload it in higher quality but seem unable too from the mobile app . Or I can't figure it out. If anyone knows how too let me know
Also look up the locking tool from draper tools. Looks easier to use and be able to see what you are doing.
Isn't the crank bolt an xzn? Also called triple square. The socket you showed is a spline socket, I think.
Just had a Google, I used a "laser all drive socket" from laser part number 3594. It says "This special Alldrive Socket Set has a unique V type profile that fits HEX/MM/AF/STAR and SPLINE fixings"
Crank bolt is a 12 point socket👍
Do you have to put crank locking pin in before removing crank pulley? If not, do you line up cam timing marks and put plastic locking tool in and then the crank locking pin? Or do you set cam marks first then crank locking pin, turn the crank onto the pin and then camshaft plastic locking tool?
I found the crank sprocket/ cog is keyed to the crank shaft, so you can loosen the crank bolt then hand tighten it to spin it to the lock pin position, I always fear mushrooming the locking tool if impacting against it, then it won't come out. Unlike some makes like ford where the cog is not keyed to the crank you have to be more careful about knowing the crank timing position with ford. I would loosen the crank bolt with an impact gun. Turn the engine to Top dead centre and fit the camshaft tools. Worst case should you have issues you could always remove the spark plug on cylinder 1 and turn the engine with a screwdriver in the spark plug hole to confirm top dead centre. And the camshaft tool gearbox side only goes in 1 way aswell to easy enough to reset the timing should anything move while working on it. Hope this helps.
@@j.f5212 thanks mate, so just to recap. Turn crank just before TDC (just before cam shaft timing marks line up) fit crank locking pin, turn crank over onto the locking pin. Fit camshaft locking tool, remove belt 👍
What is the right time to change timing belt for up citified mini?
150000K or 5 years.
What is the reason that many people open the pulleys ???????
I don't know, possibly i think the manual is written as if the engine is having a top end rebuild. But i can't see why you would just for a belt change.
Hello changement a combien de km? 10 ans ou 240000?? Merci
Well over 150k km, it could be as well 10 years plus, whichever comes first