I definitely think it’s worth mentioning if you’re anything under 8 or so months new to surfing it really is a good idea to see volume as an ally. Don’t be afraid to spend plenty of time on a foamy or a longboard! Jumping too early on a shortboard will slow down progress BIG time. If you want to step down, go from longboard, to mid-length, to shorter mid-length, to short board. I think it’s a seriously bad idea to go from longboard to shortboard. Even if it fits in your “volume recommendation”.
Spot on ... I'm confident on my 9ft foamie after 6 months going left and right and turning slowly... I'm moving down to a 7,6 minimal for more maneuver ability now 👌
It seems to me that you'd have a volume range to work with that's informed by your overall ability, paddle strength, wave knowledge, power in the wave, how competitive the spots are, and intention for that day. So there's quite a bit of range on either side of my "ideal volume" in order to meet those criteria. I think a quiver is pretty indispensable but there are also great all-rounders that can meet 80-90% of the days. My quiver is built to suit both my diverse local spots as well as traveling. I'm 155 lbs. / 73Kg, usually wear a wetsuit, am in decent shape but only an OK paddler and only OK at wave selection/anticipation. I'm not interested in super high performance or aerial surfing but I do want to consistently improve and achieve a "soulful" type of style with powerful turns and ability to enjoy the wave to the fullest. My first board was a 6'6" higher volume hybrid but a crowded and competitive spot and my poor wave knowledge kept my wave count low and I struggled to improve. I switched to a mid-length performance longboard around 8'6" and immediately improved for about a year. Then I switched to a 7'2" hybrid egg shape and again quickly improved for another year. Then I switched to the 6'4" Cosmic Sauce for nearly a year and now I'm onto the rest of my active quiver listed below. Here’s my quiver: 5’9” Haydenshapes Holy Grail at 29L - daily driver (3-8 foot faces) 6’1” Pyzel Pyzalien at 31.5L - good wave board (4-10 foot faces) 6’0” Machado Almond Butter at 36L - cruisey daily driver (2-7 foot faces) 6’4” RD Cosmic Sauce at around 42L - longboard alternative (2-6 foot faces) I’ve ridden all the boards in waist high to overhead conditions at reefs, points, and beach breaks. I should add that for 90% of the days I run a twin fin with stabilizer center fin as my set up in all those boards except the Cosmic Sauce. This fin set up I find very fast compared to a thruster but not overly loose like a straight twin can be. For the biggest and most powerful days I transition to a thruster, but that's rare. The HS Holy Grail is amazingly versatile and currently my go-to board. The short length helps me practice turns in average waves and I’ve felt comfortable on it in overhead conditions. I appreciate being able to duck dive it the best out of the boards but I do believe there are limits in that the Pyzalien would be steadier in bigger conditions and also paddles better. The Pyzalien is the best out of those for more powerful and hollow waves - but it can still be an excellent travel board and I’ve surfed really mushy chest high waves as well. The Almond Butter is an awesome all-rounder as well but hard to duck dive at that volume so I keep it as my smaller wave board or if I need a lot of paddle power on a slopey big wave that has an easy channel or some other way to avoid having to duck dive a bunch. The Cosmic Sauce is a custom board I had a shaper make me when I was trying to progress off of midlength longboards - it helped me quickly get better from a longboard and then I transitioned away from it and now I lend it to friends who want to get more practice. It’s an excellent wave catcher and really stable but it’s very thick and wide and therefore not very useful for improving power turns and late take offs etc. Especially in the beginning I think more volume is better and you can buy and sell used boards without having to invest a ton. I really recommend getting your wave count up with a bigger board with more volume but in order to not quickly progress past it I’d recommend going with a fish, egg, or hybrid outline - preserving some volume but giving the flexibility to practice a more powerful type of surfing that longboards and foamies don’t really enable. Cheers :)
I have 6 boards now and have enjoyed playing with different shapes, sizes and volumes. As an intermediate surfer, it is great to get a feel for different types of rides in various conditions
Kales Broccoli, You are 100% correct. Going to a shorter high performance board allows for high performance. Surfing since 1973 Florida East Coast with numerous boards. Some boards cannot perform well or pull off manoeuvres. If turns fail in critical sections the chance of injury with scars ! goes up. I've had some poorly shaped boards but ......... Magic surfboards do exist....... 1978 Tropical Trader was a 5'6 twin fish with wooden glassed in fins. Easy to elevator drop into a tube with five on the nose and easy off the lip turns. 1981 Fox 5'7" twin. Amazing board. 1983 Dick Brewer 6'4" Quad fin. The board could go anywhere on a wave up or down fast pulling off any routine. Dick Brewer innovated the "down rails" and that may have been his best board ever made. 1960's Hansen 50/50 9' 4" Large single from California, friend got it with one ding for $15, garage kept. That board had the best rocker and could handle a big steep drop in and bottom turn up into any wave face. 1985 Third World Exotic 6'8" funboard shaped by Art Colyer. That board could complete series of critical wave face turns, had best rocker, rails, total package. Still recall one particular ride on it. Last 5 or 6 years Jeff McCoy 8 ft tri Nugget. 70 liters? Board can make most very steep initial drops or any floater. It's not high performance, it's too big to fit in any place on the wave. . By far the best board was the DIck Brewer shaped. Thanks for your How to RIp videos!
I got back in the water around this time last year for the first time in over a decade. I think I was a little ambitions buying my first board getting a hybrid 6'4 at 41L, riding waves anywhere from 1-5ft. I was picking things up but found as the waves got smaller it was definitely becoming a struggle. I recently picked up a 6'6 Lost Puddle Jumper and for me it was a game changer, increased my wave count by about 5x. Loving the videos, definitely help up my game.
I started surfing a wile ago and I was looking for a new board so I when to my local shop and agent to the used section and got a board and fins for 75$ but if you do this be cool and they might give you a bro deal
I just worked, I am 15 years old and worked only 20 hours a week at a local fish market to buy two boards, a 8’6 fiberglass polymer longboard and 6’0 short board. Don’t let anything stop you from doing what you want!
Learning a lot from you Sir! Just discovered my passion for the sport 5 months ago. Awesome channel. Much love all the way here from Philippines! Thanks and God bless🤙🤙🤙
Just getting into the sport at 43. Absolutely love the content you guys provide. So much valuable information to learn from. Cheers from west coast of Florida USA!! Subscribed!
I last surfed in 1974. Had a G&S 7'6". I'm now trying to get back into it many years later. I have a 9'4" custom I'm trying to learn on, but I think I'm going to grab a 8ft foamie because there is a lot of shore break here in NC. Keep up the good work.
spent my first year on a very old 7'4, was good for learning takeoffs. been riding a 6'1 shortboard with a squash tail for the last 3 years (33ltrs, im 78 kg). Progressing to maneuvers like snaps and cutbacks now, getting a 5'10 with 29 Ltrs next month
I learned on a friends 7'6" and bought one for myself. I am 77kg my board is 53L volume which is dead on for beginner. It's a fun board here on the central coast of California but when the surf is half way difficult I spend twice as long paddling out as I do actually trying to surf. Even then, I do tend to nose dive a lot when I am trying to catch a wave. looking forward to saving up at trying to get something a little smaller and seeing how much more fun I can have out there.THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE VOLUME CHART THAT WAS A HUGE HELP!
I went surfing for the first time last weekend and took me 3 hours to start catching waves with a long soft board. I’m ready to move to a shorter board and do it all over again this weekend. Thanks dude for the help
Congrats but keep longboarding on the foam waves until you are comfortable to surf the green waves. Then longboard on open faced waves for a while, then try a shorter board
@Alexander MCINTYRE I was on a foamie for the longest time!! I started surfing when I was 6 and now I'm 13. My dad couldn't get me to surf a fiber glass board until I was like 9 because I was so scared 😂😂😂
Had ACL surgery and was out of the water for 18 months. Got back in heavier and no where near as good as I was. Love how your volume calculator said 40L for an intermediate surfer. I had just picked up two 40L boards because my 35s seemed sluggish.
after a couple of weeks i started surfing witha minimali 7'9, the local shop told me the torq performance fish 6'10 with 46l would have been the right choise but it wasn't. i've been strugling like crazy to learn and improve on it (especially cuz here in italy we ppl from the city we can only go surfing around 1 or 2 times per month. espeically due to the poor conditions we have in italy). so now i spent 8 days in portugal surfing a Bic 7'0 everyday and I improved A LOT so now i'm looking forward to try again my board and see if I can surf it now. I'm really excited and scared at the same time ehehe wish me luck
Started surfing this year. I was standing up and riding the white water on my foamy mini Mal on the first day. I bought a short foamy a couple months after. Learned to catch the green water, but struggled trying to turn into the waves... Now i know why. Too much volume for my weight and they're not really built for manoeuvors. Time to upgrade to a high performance board i think.
I’m riding a moonbeam at my local break here in Pacific Beach California where the waves tend to be softer and mushier but when I go to Blacks I like to ride my Holy Grail both boards are so fun for the waves that are provided. Love the channel and by the way the volume chart is pretty spot on thanks
Fun I used to surf it every day but I noticed that I had trouble catching softer waves such as Trestles and Huntington because I got used to the power of Blacks and relying on the wave to do the work for me so now I surf PB and work for the wave and I have noticed at Blacks how I get in early as a result of working for the wave.
@@nobodym2629 its from torq surfboards. It was slightly cheaper than some other brands in price but it still is good. I'm able to catch waves but it would have been easier to transition to a 5'10 because it is thicker and longer
@@nobodym2629 sorry I'm 2 months late lol but if you still haven't bought a shortboard generally any fish shaped board is good and as long as you get the right size, the torq tec fish is a good option
Cheers guys, great video like usual! When I was starting out switching volumes was very frustrating. When you get to know what type of board (a relationship with a shaper) + volume you need it makes it so easy! I just went down to Portugal to strike a swell and it's so nice to be able to trust in your equipment whenever the waves are of consequence :)
I have for many years now rode longer boards with lots of volume with wide tail area. I,m now in my 40,s and loving longboarding which I,v rode for years. My very first board was a flashy 6'8 Thruster with Teardrop decal which looked epic....I couldn't even paddle it. I eventually took some lessons and advice which included upping the sizes of board and reading waves well. I like clean 3-5 foot flat face waves so longboards suite well. I avoid mushy inshore days if I can as it's a waste of energy to fight onshore mush and not getting turns in whitewater. Even on bigger days if it's clean and offshore I still waves tho I get battered a bit in sizable. My goal in surfing is fun, not ego so a bigger board+clean medium offshore waves is far preferable to a flash shortboard that's totally inappropriate that I can't even paddle let alone ride. If your skilled and fit enough, performance shortboarding makes sense but if your not as skilled, older or not as fit or agile as you were, get a bigger, floatier board and start making surfing fun again.
Great vid 👍 be really interested in how the actual shape, tail style, rocker etc affects the board in different conditions and what u guys would recommend for different levels
I've just gone to a modern highline 6,2 after being on a 8ft foamie for a few months it was pretty tricky at the start and kinda thought i stuffed up, but realised i have to catch the wave at a different point then the long foamy and now after bout 6 surfs Im feeling confident on it and love the extra speed even in the small south port surf. love your work mate keep it up btw the activating banana exercise has worked well with my paddle posture cheers.
Very graphic, I have a 6´softboard of 46L (65kg x0.7= 45.5) and a fiber board 5´9" 29L (65kg x 0.45=29L) Your rule fits perfectly!! Need to gian more experience. Do you recommend a SUP or better a surfskate when is flat? (to keep practicing...)
Beginner-intermediate 68kgs riding a 5.8 Santa Cruz Ozzie Wright 33l 👌🏻 moved off a seven foot foamie after only two months and love my new board but the mid coast is very inconsistent here in Adelaide and need to look at something like the foam fish for smaller days! 🌊🏄🏽♂️
Thanks guys you've provided inclusive non judgemental advice. You guys guiding me each time l get out, which is most days. Bought 6'6' 56L Eco Bean as my next step from my long board. Somewhere between the .0.7 and .0.45 beginner to intermediate. Cheers Pete
6ft 2in Quiet Flight (Reaper). High performance hybrid squash tail. About 19 3/4 inch wide and 2 3/4 inch thick. Not sure of the volume. Shaper knows my height and weight and has been shaping my boards for 21 years, so it's on point. Thanks for the video.
I have a Sculpt Throwback semi fish which is 5 foot 8 and 29.5 Litres. I would consider myself intermediate to advanced and I weigh 78 kilos so your calcs are pretty much bang on. BTW... loving your videos. It's funny that throughout my life I have had swimming coaching, Muay Thai coaching etc etc....but never surfing and surfing is by far my most favorite sport.
Been learning on a 8'6 modern board 'Blackbird'.. its like a boat! But im so new figured it would become my small surf board in due time. At 100kgs, hard to find a 60-70lt board around 6 to 7 foot.
I started about a month ago and can get to the back with ease, catch most of the waves I paddle for and I can ride across a wave. I can’t really do turns yet as my board is pretty large, but I still give it a go ofc. I don’t know if I should get a new board or just stick with the one I got... but I do really want to continue to improve.
This was great it's so cool to see other surfers also interested in board design. I recently progressed to my first higher performance shortboard by proctor and I'm stoked on how it feels underfoot
Great video guys! Thanks for posting this... Looking to buy a groveler/EDB and I rode a superbrand fling (flex) and fell in love.... It's nice to be able to ensure I'm in the right volume range!
Hello ! I just discovered the chanel today, I really like it, very interesting tips !I would have a question: I'm a begginer, I've been surfing a couple of time now and I'm about to buy my first board. What is your opinioon about getting an evolutive board (6'9, 46L), knowing I've been able to stand up on some 7'6 and 55L board ? In advance thanks for the help ;) Cheers from France !
Hi Kale! Love your videos. Quick question: I'm getting back into surfing after a hiatus/inconsistent practices. I'm 41.2 kg and 1.6 meters tall. How do I know if the board I'm practicing is too heavy/has too much volume, or if it's just a matter of my strength? I'm in this weird spot where my balance is better on my teacher's soft top longboard, but I've caught waves more consistently with my brother's fiberglass funboard. Thanks!!
I'm pretty new. I started a few months ago & I got a brand new 7'6" NSP E2 for Christmas. I am 5'2" & 120 lbs and live in south FL where the waves are generally small to intermediate most of the time & it is a pretty good place to learn on some smaller waves. My goals are to get good as fast as possible & take some surf trip to cool locations around the globe and to get barrelled. I want to be able to perform some cool tricks one day soon and I have a pretty bad ass surf coach.
Just to note: modern soft tops are are very very maneuverable and pros totally rip on them. They are not at all just for riding straight. If you are a beginner there is absolutely NO reason you should buy anything but a soft top (foamie). Plus they’re much safer for you and those around you. There are some great new ones, ex. Catch Surf or Mick Fanning boards.
I am riding a go fish from firewire. Dimensions 27 litres 5.3 ft 19 wide And I weigh 39 and a am intermediate. Can't really do turns but I ride the wall and try turn. And I am slowly progressing from the tips you give me on youtube. Thanks for video really enjoying all the videos that you post.
Just started surfing about a month ago. I can easily take off on mid-waves with a longboard but ugh it's so hard to turn.. All I do is going straight lol
Hi @kalesbroccoli, thanks for the video. I just got my new board. I weight 80kg and still decided to go for a 6.2x22.5x2.75 (44L of volume) because I live beside the Mediterranean Sea, where waves are generally below shoulder and not that powerful and frequent. I think the type of waves and how often you ride, is also essential for the choosing of your board. What do you think?
44 L is a lot of Literage but it depends on your level. For beginner to intermediate that is correct, especially with small mediterrian waves you will need the extra litres
Hey guys, great video. Question about fish boards... how do you size them volume-wise? Same as your everyday thruster? Or should you bump it up a bit for smaller waves? Cheers!
I live in a place with some pretty mushy surf. No beautiful perfect waves, like you always see on youtube. After starting on a 7'0 60L foamy, I think it's time to move on. I was thinking of buying a 6'0 performance fish, 34L. I weigh 65 Kg so it may be a bit too much volume, but I think it may be good to take the kind of waves here into account. It should also be noted that boards are difficult to come by here, getting it here is a lot of trouble so I can't just switch it easily.
I have an 8ft foamie from catch surf, a 6’5 retro single fin from Channel Islands, a 5’11 quad fish from bones (my everyday board), a 5,8 quad groveler that I have yet to ride, and a 54inch beater board. Obviously I like boards with extra foam hahaha
Good job bro...you guys work hard... usually I like to have 2-3boards...my fav is a high-performance minitanker and a kind of fish board.....just sold my board today, too heavy--hindering my movements, too stiff-was second hand...no more board now..ugh.
I've been surfing for 59 years and only ride long boards from 9-0 and longer and only single fins and never an epoxy board I ride a polyester with 3stringers wood nose and tail block
I just started recently surfing and fell in love with it. But I don’t wanna keep using a7 footer board. I need a smaller board. Any recommendations or suggestions?
I honestly really enjoy your vids !!!! I have currently, as my daily ride, a Slater design Cymatic. It is a 5'9" x 20" 1/8 x 2" 11/16 coming in @ 34.3 L. I run a quad set up with FCS11 Performance fins. So much fun!!!
I love your videos! Thank you so much. I'm new at surfing, but I do love a good fish. Turns out the one I have lacks volume though, so I'm on the look out for a fatter one 😆
So I am a advanced surfer looking for a shortboard, I am 1.88 Meters tall and my weight is 77kg / 170lbs that means I should get a board with a volume of 26L, but due to I am pretty tall, should I get a taller board? Some sites say that I should get a shortboard from 6'4" to 6'8" based on my weight. But looking for the right volume it end up with a 5'10" board. so is my height pointless in looking for a board? please help someone
I'm riding 6,10 vampirite and Simon Anderson 6'6 Vermit and I snapped my MG slayer 6'4 getting a new MG soon 6'6 slayer and I just got new bigger future finns
Hey mate, first of all your videos are the bomb watching them every week!! Have been surfing 2-4 (ocasionally 5ft) waves up at Sunshine coast on a 35L 5.10 hybrid and getting pre comfortable on it so I m thinking of going down to your recommended volume for intermediate surfers of my size - 30.6L (probs 5.6-5.8 in lenght) What do you think? Cheers!!
Would a 6'6 softech flash be too advanced for someone 63kg who can get up semi regularly and skates / snowboards? I don't want to buy a huge first board and then immediately have to upgrade to something shorter.
how are you finding the Libtech? lost shapes are pretty good and the Libtech versions would make a great travel board being so tough. i was chatting to a guy in the surf at the Pass in Byron and he rated the one he had
My main board was 8"0 soft board, but when this began to be easy for my I rented a 7"2 funboard (40l) from torq, now recently I purchased a 6"8 tri-fish (32l) from mayhem, but I haven't had the time to test it yet, so it was basically a blind purchase, could this work out or can this form a problem?
transition to short boards?? I don’t have much experience surfing but I made progress fast and was riding small green waves on a foamie in Florida. I’m thinking of Craigslisting a 7’0 fun fish with a thruster back end, as my first owned board and as a good second hand ride to learn on. Is that a good idea so I can get a solid foundation or should I get a 6’0 fish around 27 L right of the bat? I am 5’8.5 and 57 kg.
Does the size of the wave influence which board to use? For example I saw at a surfshop that a more sharp board (for example the Raptor) is used for waves under 2 m.
I just started surfing last summer and my first and only board (so far) is a 9" Torq "The Don". My goal for surfing is to cruise on waves and to some turns but nothing too insane. When is the right time to go shorter?
Hi Kale - I have been riding a hybrid longboard (9'1" with 2+1 fin configuration) for about 2 years and was thinking about adding a smaller board to my quiver (as you say). What are your thoughts on mid-length boards (7'2") like a maxi fish shape. I am older but in good shape - (started surfing at 65). Most of the waves here at Ohope NZ (Bay of plenty east coast North Island) are a beach break and smaller (3-6 ft, 1-2 Meters). Goal is to get into some nice 4-6 foot waves and have some fun with turns. Your thoughts and suggestions for an older surfer. Cheers
Starting out here in OB SD, living a mile from the beach so I'm hoping to get in every morning/night! I've learned some fundamentals a couple years ago, been snowboarding my whole life and have pretty good balance. Do you all think a Wavestorm 8' might be a solid first board I can stuff into my car/ carry out? I kinda wanna skip the foamy as I found it was WAY to buoyant
I really want to get into surfing. I am 5'8 and weigh 145. I have skateboarded all my life, but I've never surfed. What's a cool company to buy a board off of? let me know I am really into getting into this lifestyle.
Thanks for tuning in peeps! Hey, i'd love to know which surfboard you're currently riding and, more importantly, are you liking it?
I’m currently on a 5’6 t.patterson board that has been doing me good for a while may start looking for a new one🤙🏼
sweet :) @@melindaruiz9716
epic they've some great shapes obviously ! @Preston Kieschnik
ridding a AL Merick Rocket Wide around Sydney on normal days and a Pysel Phanton on bit better days!!! LOVE Both boards!!!
im on an acsod ghost, 5'11, which i got 2nd hand and love
I definitely think it’s worth mentioning if you’re anything under 8 or so months new to surfing it really is a good idea to see volume as an ally. Don’t be afraid to spend plenty of time on a foamy or a longboard! Jumping too early on a shortboard will slow down progress BIG time. If you want to step down, go from longboard, to mid-length, to shorter mid-length, to short board. I think it’s a seriously bad idea to go from longboard to shortboard. Even if it fits in your “volume recommendation”.
Spot on ... I'm confident on my 9ft foamie after 6 months going left and right and turning slowly... I'm moving down to a 7,6 minimal for more maneuver ability now 👌
For volume I condition my hair every day.
Nice to know
Yes
Washing your hair every day is damaging
Rishi Madhireddy only if you use shampoo every day, conditioning it daily is good
And you look fabulous!
It seems to me that you'd have a volume range to work with that's informed by your overall ability, paddle strength, wave knowledge, power in the wave, how competitive the spots are, and intention for that day. So there's quite a bit of range on either side of my "ideal volume" in order to meet those criteria.
I think a quiver is pretty indispensable but there are also great all-rounders that can meet 80-90% of the days. My quiver is built to suit both my diverse local spots as well as traveling. I'm 155 lbs. / 73Kg, usually wear a wetsuit, am in decent shape but only an OK paddler and only OK at wave selection/anticipation.
I'm not interested in super high performance or aerial surfing but I do want to consistently improve and achieve a "soulful" type of style with powerful turns and ability to enjoy the wave to the fullest.
My first board was a 6'6" higher volume hybrid but a crowded and competitive spot and my poor wave knowledge kept my wave count low and I struggled to improve. I switched to a mid-length performance longboard around 8'6" and immediately improved for about a year. Then I switched to a 7'2" hybrid egg shape and again quickly improved for another year. Then I switched to the 6'4" Cosmic Sauce for nearly a year and now I'm onto the rest of my active quiver listed below.
Here’s my quiver:
5’9” Haydenshapes Holy Grail at 29L - daily driver (3-8 foot faces)
6’1” Pyzel Pyzalien at 31.5L - good wave board (4-10 foot faces)
6’0” Machado Almond Butter at 36L - cruisey daily driver (2-7 foot faces)
6’4” RD Cosmic Sauce at around 42L - longboard alternative (2-6 foot faces)
I’ve ridden all the boards in waist high to overhead conditions at reefs, points, and beach breaks.
I should add that for 90% of the days I run a twin fin with stabilizer center fin as my set up in all those boards except the Cosmic Sauce. This fin set up I find very fast compared to a thruster but not overly loose like a straight twin can be. For the biggest and most powerful days I transition to a thruster, but that's rare.
The HS Holy Grail is amazingly versatile and currently my go-to board. The short length helps me practice turns in average waves and I’ve felt comfortable on it in overhead conditions. I appreciate being able to duck dive it the best out of the boards but I do believe there are limits in that the Pyzalien would be steadier in bigger conditions and also paddles better.
The Pyzalien is the best out of those for more powerful and hollow waves - but it can still be an excellent travel board and I’ve surfed really mushy chest high waves as well.
The Almond Butter is an awesome all-rounder as well but hard to duck dive at that volume so I keep it as my smaller wave board or if I need a lot of paddle power on a slopey big wave that has an easy channel or some other way to avoid having to duck dive a bunch.
The Cosmic Sauce is a custom board I had a shaper make me when I was trying to progress off of midlength longboards - it helped me quickly get better from a longboard and then I transitioned away from it and now I lend it to friends who want to get more practice. It’s an excellent wave catcher and really stable but it’s very thick and wide and therefore not very useful for improving power turns and late take offs etc.
Especially in the beginning I think more volume is better and you can buy and sell used boards without having to invest a ton.
I really recommend getting your wave count up with a bigger board with more volume but in order to not quickly progress past it I’d recommend going with a fish, egg, or hybrid outline - preserving some volume but giving the flexibility to practice a more powerful type of surfing that longboards and foamies don’t really enable.
Cheers :)
cool thanks ! :) lots of info!
I have 6 boards now and have enjoyed playing with different shapes, sizes and volumes. As an intermediate surfer, it is great to get a feel for different types of rides in various conditions
yep.
That table at 7:55 for choosing the right board take this tutorial to the next level... the pro level I was lookin for. Thank you guys!!
Kales Broccoli,
You are 100% correct. Going to a shorter high performance board allows for high performance.
Surfing since 1973 Florida East Coast with numerous boards. Some boards cannot perform well or pull off manoeuvres. If turns fail in critical sections the chance of injury with scars ! goes up. I've had some poorly shaped boards but ......... Magic surfboards do exist.......
1978 Tropical Trader was a 5'6 twin fish with wooden glassed in fins. Easy to elevator drop into a tube with five on the nose and easy off the lip turns.
1981 Fox 5'7" twin. Amazing board.
1983 Dick Brewer 6'4" Quad fin. The board could go anywhere on a wave up or down fast pulling off any routine. Dick Brewer innovated the "down rails" and that may have been his best board ever made.
1960's Hansen 50/50 9' 4" Large single from California, friend got it with one ding for $15, garage kept. That board had the best rocker and could handle a big steep drop in and bottom turn up into any wave face.
1985 Third World Exotic 6'8" funboard shaped by Art Colyer. That board could complete series of critical wave face turns, had best rocker, rails, total package. Still recall one particular ride on it.
Last 5 or 6 years Jeff McCoy 8 ft tri Nugget. 70 liters? Board can make most very steep initial drops or any floater. It's not high performance, it's too big to fit in any place on the wave. .
By far the best board was the DIck Brewer shaped.
Thanks for your How to RIp videos!
You have boards in numbers like guitarists have guitars :)
Try being a surfer and guitarist….. i have no room
U no dat
I swear I was just ready to write that ong
@@srfhdx5584 i feel the pain
I got back in the water around this time last year for the first time in over a decade. I think I was a little ambitions buying my first board getting a hybrid 6'4 at 41L, riding waves anywhere from 1-5ft. I was picking things up but found as the waves got smaller it was definitely becoming a struggle. I recently picked up a 6'6 Lost Puddle Jumper and for me it was a game changer, increased my wave count by about 5x.
Loving the videos, definitely help up my game.
Okay but how can I afford three boards if I can't even afford one xDdd
Guillermo Sanchez rent maybe?
I started surfing a wile ago and I was looking for a new board so I when to my local shop and agent to the used section and got a board and fins for 75$ but if you do this be cool and they might give you a bro deal
Buy used. Waaaaay better
I just worked, I am 15 years old and worked only 20 hours a week at a local fish market to buy two boards, a 8’6 fiberglass polymer longboard and 6’0 short board. Don’t let anything stop you from doing what you want!
Get a job?
Learning a lot from you Sir! Just discovered my passion for the sport 5 months ago. Awesome channel. Much love all the way here from Philippines! Thanks and God bless🤙🤙🤙
Awesome! Good waves there! :)
Saan pwede makabili ng surf board?
Aahh, PI is beautiful...love the people, plenty here in Hawaii
Just getting into the sport at 43. Absolutely love the content you guys provide. So much valuable information to learn from. Cheers from west coast of Florida USA!! Subscribed!
I last surfed in 1974. Had a G&S 7'6". I'm now trying to get back into it many years later. I have a 9'4" custom I'm trying to learn on, but I think I'm going to grab a 8ft foamie because there is a lot of shore break here in NC. Keep up the good work.
spent my first year on a very old 7'4, was good for learning takeoffs.
been riding a 6'1 shortboard with a squash tail for the last 3 years (33ltrs, im 78 kg).
Progressing to maneuvers like snaps and cutbacks now, getting a 5'10 with 29 Ltrs next month
awesome! :)
I learned on a friends 7'6" and bought one for myself. I am 77kg my board is 53L volume which is dead on for beginner. It's a fun board here on the central coast of California but when the surf is half way difficult I spend twice as long paddling out as I do actually trying to surf. Even then, I do tend to nose dive a lot when I am trying to catch a wave. looking forward to saving up at trying to get something a little smaller and seeing how much more fun I can have out there.THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE VOLUME CHART THAT WAS A HUGE HELP!
I went surfing for the first time last weekend and took me 3 hours to start catching waves with a long soft board. I’m ready to move to a shorter board and do it all over again this weekend. Thanks dude for the help
Congrats but keep longboarding on the foam waves until you are comfortable to surf the green waves. Then longboard on open faced waves for a while, then try a shorter board
I've been surfing for a couple of years every summer and i still use a soft board.
fitforlife I’d stay on the foamie for a bit. I know you don’t wanna but it’ll benefit u in the long run
@Alexander MCINTYRE I was on a foamie for the longest time!! I started surfing when I was 6 and now I'm 13. My dad couldn't get me to surf a fiber glass board until I was like 9 because I was so scared 😂😂😂
Had ACL surgery and was out of the water for 18 months. Got back in heavier and no where near as good as I was. Love how your volume calculator said 40L for an intermediate surfer. I had just picked up two 40L boards because my 35s seemed sluggish.
Kane Campbell I had ACL surgery and am back to doing all the things I love as well. I’m glad you are too!
Bro, thanks!!!! Even without surfing you make me feel confortable! Hope you keep sharing your knowledge!
Great information. Im 49 and about to give surfing a go for the first time. Appreciate the help
A wavestorm is 86 liters. Is it really possible to find a fish that floaty
@eliot imma go w no
Definitely not, and that amount of volume will hinder you in the long run. If you're not a big person, it's really hard to duck-dive with a wavestorm.
after a couple of weeks i started surfing witha minimali 7'9, the local shop told me the torq performance fish 6'10 with 46l would have been the right choise but it wasn't. i've been strugling like crazy to learn and improve on it (especially cuz here in italy we ppl from the city we can only go surfing around 1 or 2 times per month. espeically due to the poor conditions we have in italy). so now i spent 8 days in portugal surfing a Bic 7'0 everyday and I improved A LOT so now i'm looking forward to try again my board and see if I can surf it now. I'm really excited and scared at the same time ehehe wish me luck
Umbo_Moioli how are you progressing? I’m looking to get the same board.
Started surfing this year. I was standing up and riding the white water on my foamy mini Mal on the first day. I bought a short foamy a couple months after. Learned to catch the green water, but struggled trying to turn into the waves... Now i know why. Too much volume for my weight and they're not really built for manoeuvors. Time to upgrade to a high performance board i think.
Great videos. Fantastic production and commentary - thanks for sharing your knowledge man.
i moved from a long board 8 footer to a 5foot8 fishboard... finally enjoying the green waves turning.
Congrats man
How was the transition? How much do you weigh?
Been surfing since 1980. The older i get, the longer the board. Wave count is great
Hey, me too, that's about when I started, never stopped, surf everyday
Best video I’ve came across for a looong time 🤯 thanks kale!!
Live in South Africa, fortunate enough to have Firing waves. Quiver consists of a 6’2, 6’8 and 8’0.
Epic
I’m riding a moonbeam at my local break here in Pacific Beach California where the waves tend to be softer and mushier but when I go to Blacks I like to ride my Holy Grail both boards are so fun for the waves that are provided. Love the channel and by the way the volume chart is pretty spot on thanks
how good is blacks!!! One of my favourite waves. I'll be there in June :)
Kales Broccoli Blacks is super
Fun I used to surf it every day but I noticed that I had trouble catching softer waves such as Trestles and Huntington because I got used to the power of Blacks and relying on the wave to do the work for me so now I surf PB and work for the wave and I have noticed at Blacks how I get in early as a result of working for the wave.
Bought my first short board the other day it was a 5'8 torq fish I've been surfing a 7'0 foam board for about 1 and a half months👍
What brand? Have u been able to catch waves with it?
@@nobodym2629 its from torq surfboards. It was slightly cheaper than some other brands in price but it still is good. I'm able to catch waves but it would have been easier to transition to a 5'10 because it is thicker and longer
Thanks! Would you recommend it to me? I have an 8’ wavestorm and don’t know what to transition to.
@@nobodym2629 sorry I'm 2 months late lol but if you still haven't bought a shortboard generally any fish shaped board is good and as long as you get the right size, the torq tec fish is a good option
@@dylanmullin06 it’s fine lol. Thanks
Cool video thx! Been surfing for 40 years such a fun sport don’t let to much time go by and get in the water
Cheers guys, great video like usual! When I was starting out switching volumes was very frustrating. When you get to know what type of board (a relationship with a shaper) + volume you need it makes it so easy! I just went down to Portugal to strike a swell and it's so nice to be able to trust in your equipment whenever the waves are of consequence :)
Epic for sure yep!
Egg 6'7, js matrix 5'6 (30 ltr), superbrand toy 5'10 (27ltr). All what i need for my 62kg :-)
Thank you for all the videos, this’s probably the best one so far. I’m getting a surfboard so it is really useful.
Awesome :)
I have for many years now rode longer boards with lots of volume with wide tail area.
I,m now in my 40,s and loving longboarding which I,v rode for years.
My very first board was a flashy 6'8 Thruster with Teardrop decal which looked epic....I couldn't even paddle it.
I eventually took some lessons and advice which included upping the sizes of board and reading waves well. I like clean 3-5 foot flat face waves so longboards suite well. I avoid mushy inshore days if I can as it's a waste of energy to fight onshore mush and not getting turns in whitewater. Even on bigger days if it's clean and offshore I still waves tho I get battered a bit in sizable.
My goal in surfing is fun, not ego so a bigger board+clean medium offshore waves is far preferable to a flash shortboard that's totally inappropriate that I can't even paddle let alone ride.
If your skilled and fit enough, performance shortboarding makes sense but if your not as skilled, older or not as fit or agile as you were, get a bigger, floatier board and start making surfing fun again.
Great vid 👍 be really interested in how the actual shape, tail style, rocker etc affects the board in different conditions and what u guys would recommend for different levels
I've just gone to a modern highline 6,2 after being on a 8ft foamie for a few months it was pretty tricky at the start and kinda thought i stuffed up, but realised i have to catch the wave at a different point then the long foamy and now after bout 6 surfs Im feeling confident on it and love the extra speed even in the small south port surf. love your work mate keep it up btw the activating banana exercise has worked well with my paddle posture cheers.
Wooooo!! Bananas
Very graphic, I have a 6´softboard of 46L (65kg x0.7= 45.5) and a fiber board 5´9" 29L (65kg x 0.45=29L) Your rule fits perfectly!! Need to gian more experience.
Do you recommend a SUP or better a surfskate when is flat? (to keep practicing...)
Beginner-intermediate 68kgs riding a 5.8 Santa Cruz Ozzie Wright 33l 👌🏻 moved off a seven foot foamie after only two months and love my new board but the mid coast is very inconsistent here in Adelaide and need to look at something like the foam fish for smaller days! 🌊🏄🏽♂️
for sure the mid c an be frustrating!
First 5 seconds of watching this video I knew you were a legend and subscribed
Thanks guys you've provided inclusive non judgemental advice. You guys guiding me each time l get out, which is most days. Bought 6'6' 56L Eco Bean as my next step from my long board. Somewhere between the .0.7 and .0.45 beginner to intermediate. Cheers Pete
Thanks Pete! :)
6ft 2in Quiet Flight (Reaper). High performance hybrid squash tail. About 19 3/4 inch wide and 2 3/4 inch thick. Not sure of the volume. Shaper knows my height and weight and has been shaping my boards for 21 years, so it's on point. Thanks for the video.
No worries - Shapers know best :)
I have a Sculpt Throwback semi fish which is 5 foot 8 and 29.5 Litres. I would consider myself intermediate to advanced and I weigh 78 kilos so your calcs are pretty much bang on. BTW... loving your videos. It's funny that throughout my life I have had swimming coaching, Muay Thai coaching etc etc....but never surfing and surfing is by far my most favorite sport.
You guys are great teachers. Super informative and practical video!
Been learning on a 8'6 modern board 'Blackbird'.. its like a boat! But im so new figured it would become my small surf board in due time. At 100kgs, hard to find a 60-70lt board around 6 to 7 foot.
yep a bit tricky thats why a longboard to start really helps
I started about a month ago and can get to the back with ease, catch most of the waves I paddle for and I can ride across a wave. I can’t really do turns yet as my board is pretty large, but I still give it a go ofc. I don’t know if I should get a new board or just stick with the one I got... but I do really want to continue to improve.
This was great it's so cool to see other surfers also interested in board design. I recently progressed to my first higher performance shortboard by proctor and I'm stoked on how it feels underfoot
Cool :)
Great video guys! Thanks for posting this... Looking to buy a groveler/EDB and I rode a superbrand fling (flex) and fell in love.... It's nice to be able to ensure I'm in the right volume range!
Hello !
I just discovered the chanel today, I really like it, very interesting tips !I would have a question: I'm a begginer, I've been surfing a couple of time now and I'm about to buy my first board. What is your opinioon about getting an evolutive board (6'9, 46L), knowing I've been able to stand up on some 7'6 and 55L board ?
In advance thanks for the help ;)
Cheers from France !
Great info, extremely logical and well thought out- thanks
Love the in depth board talk. Can't wait to try some different boards soon.
me too 😁
have you you ever surfed muizenberg beach cape town😁? lots of love🤗🤗💪
Yes :) CT is one of my fav cities
awesome vid bro, you explained perfectly what i was looking to learn!
Thanks for the good information and thanks for giving it without ego
Yesss been waiting for another of these!
Sweet!
Awesome tip! Great help for changing my current board
Sweet :)
Hi Kale! Love your videos. Quick question: I'm getting back into surfing after a hiatus/inconsistent practices. I'm 41.2 kg and 1.6 meters tall. How do I know if the board I'm practicing is too heavy/has too much volume, or if it's just a matter of my strength? I'm in this weird spot where my balance is better on my teacher's soft top longboard, but I've caught waves more consistently with my brother's fiberglass funboard. Thanks!!
Great info- I’ve accidentally ended up with a random quiver because I’m chasing it and buying the wrong stuff 🤣
I'm pretty new. I started a few months ago & I got a brand new 7'6" NSP E2 for Christmas. I am 5'2" & 120 lbs and live in south FL where the waves are generally small to intermediate most of the time & it is a pretty good place to learn on some smaller waves. My goals are to get good as fast as possible & take some surf trip to cool locations around the globe and to get barrelled. I want to be able to perform some cool tricks one day soon and I have a pretty bad ass surf coach.
sweeeeeeet!!
Gorgeous too
Surfing take time to learn and for your body to adapt.
Really great insight for all levels. Cheers!
Just to note: modern soft tops are are very very maneuverable and pros totally rip on them. They are not at all just for riding straight. If you are a beginner there is absolutely NO reason you should buy anything but a soft top (foamie). Plus they’re much safer for you and those around you. There are some great new ones, ex. Catch Surf or Mick Fanning boards.
Yeah good point! You can't totally rip on them - but they do offer some manoeuvrability these days
You are the best teacher. Thanks
I am riding a go fish from firewire. Dimensions 27 litres 5.3 ft 19 wide
And I weigh 39 and a am intermediate. Can't really do turns but I ride the wall and try turn. And I am slowly progressing from the tips you give me on youtube. Thanks for video really enjoying all the videos that you post.
Awesome :) Thanks you!
Just started surfing about a month ago. I can easily take off on mid-waves with a longboard but ugh it's so hard to turn.. All I do is going straight lol
We have some helpful videos which you can check out
Where do u live to surf all year round? Also when did you start surfing?
He is in Australia. We surf all year in California too with a wetsuit
Same here on the south coast of England 🤙
Hi @kalesbroccoli, thanks for the video. I just got my new board. I weight 80kg and still decided to go for a 6.2x22.5x2.75 (44L of volume) because I live beside the Mediterranean Sea, where waves are generally below shoulder and not that powerful and frequent. I think the type of waves and how often you ride, is also essential for the choosing of your board. What do you think?
44 L is a lot of Literage but it depends on your level. For beginner to intermediate that is correct, especially with small mediterrian waves you will need the extra litres
Nice, I still have my 1st board I got in 78!
Hey guys, great video. Question about fish boards... how do you size them volume-wise? Same as your everyday thruster? Or should you bump it up a bit for smaller waves? Cheers!
Bump it up a bit! :)
I live in a place with some pretty mushy surf. No beautiful perfect waves, like you always see on youtube.
After starting on a 7'0 60L foamy, I think it's time to move on.
I was thinking of buying a 6'0 performance fish, 34L. I weigh 65 Kg so it may be a bit too much volume, but I think it may be good to take the kind of waves here into account.
It should also be noted that boards are difficult to come by here, getting it here is a lot of trouble so I can't just switch it easily.
AtheistBonaire Noyb hows that new board and downward jump in volume working out? (I weigh the same as you)
I have an 8ft foamie from catch surf, a 6’5 retro single fin from Channel Islands, a 5’11 quad fish from bones (my everyday board), a 5,8 quad groveler that I have yet to ride, and a 54inch beater board. Obviously I like boards with extra foam hahaha
Great video ! Any videos about difference between type of the tales, fins and bottom contours and dimensions?.. I am looking forward !
Good job bro...you guys work hard... usually I like to have 2-3boards...my fav is a high-performance minitanker and a kind of fish board.....just sold my board today, too heavy--hindering my movements, too stiff-was second hand...no more board now..ugh.
this video is veeeery helpful! thanks :)
I've been surfing for 59 years and only ride long boards from 9-0 and longer and only single fins and never an epoxy board I ride a polyester with 3stringers wood nose and tail block
I just started recently surfing and fell in love with it. But I don’t wanna keep using a7 footer board. I need a smaller board. Any recommendations or suggestions?
Michael Stapleton how are you going with pop up and doing turns etc?
John Anderson well, my pop up is still too slow but working on it. My turns hehe still don’t know how turn precisely.its a working progress.
Imo, u should master your popup and be able to to surf down the line before moving to a smaller board. That's what I did.
Delta. 6 Thanks man I’ll try working on my pop up and that in mind.👍
That painting looks sick
I know the whole video I was thinking "that's so rad I need it" haha
Yours videos help us a lot! Great job! thank you!
Yeah sweet!!! :) Thank you :)
I don’t have one but I’d love to get one ever I surfed in Margaret river
Good video lad, had all the information I needed.
I honestly really enjoy your vids !!!! I have currently, as my daily ride, a Slater design Cymatic. It is a 5'9" x 20" 1/8 x 2" 11/16 coming in @ 34.3 L. I run a quad set up with FCS11 Performance fins. So much fun!!!
epic!
yessirr new designs in the works from U.F.O. Surf Co
I love your videos! Thank you so much. I'm new at surfing, but I do love a good fish. Turns out the one I have lacks volume though, so I'm on the look out for a fatter one 😆
So I am a advanced surfer looking for a shortboard, I am 1.88 Meters tall and my weight is 77kg / 170lbs
that means I should get a board with a volume of 26L, but due to I am pretty tall, should I get a taller board?
Some sites say that I should get a shortboard from 6'4" to 6'8" based on my weight.
But looking for the right volume it end up with a 5'10" board.
so is my height pointless in looking for a board?
please help someone
Is this calculation for the optimal amount of volume, the least you should have, or the most?
I'm riding 6,10 vampirite and Simon Anderson 6'6 Vermit and I snapped my MG slayer 6'4 getting a new MG soon 6'6 slayer and I just got new bigger future finns
Always great information always helpful please keep it coming
Hey mate, first of all your videos are the bomb watching them every week!! Have been surfing 2-4 (ocasionally 5ft) waves up at Sunshine coast on a 35L 5.10 hybrid and getting pre comfortable on it so I m thinking of going down to your recommended volume for intermediate surfers of my size - 30.6L (probs 5.6-5.8 in lenght) What do you think? Cheers!!
Sounds about right to me! :) Thank you!
In one of your 1st vids you recommended a fish board but there’s also fish/hybrid so which should I get and what size I’d say a person is 167lbs
Thanks what a great one! where is the place with the pool ?😍
Would a 6'6 softech flash be too advanced for someone 63kg who can get up semi regularly and skates / snowboards?
I don't want to buy a huge first board and then immediately have to upgrade to something shorter.
Impressive break down, thank you
6'0 Libtech x ...Lost Short Round. Perfect for learning chop hops!
Ahaha nooooo
how are you finding the Libtech? lost shapes are pretty good and the Libtech versions would make a great travel board being so tough. i was chatting to a guy in the surf at the Pass in Byron and he rated the one he had
My main board was 8"0 soft board, but when this began to be easy for my I rented a 7"2 funboard (40l) from torq, now recently I purchased a 6"8 tri-fish (32l) from mayhem, but I haven't had the time to test it yet, so it was basically a blind purchase, could this work out or can this form a problem?
I ride a 5.6 ft ocean & earth 8 Ball Bug and it’s awesome it’s only 30 lt even though I’m a beginner I’ve got along with it
transition to short boards??
I don’t have much experience surfing but I made progress fast and was riding small green waves on a foamie in Florida. I’m thinking of Craigslisting a 7’0 fun fish with a thruster back end, as my first owned board and as a good second hand ride to learn on. Is that a good idea so I can get a solid foundation or should I get a 6’0 fish around 27 L right of the bat?
I am 5’8.5 and 57 kg.
Keep the foamie it will be a super fun board to ride when you get better. Get a higher volume fish though.
Does the size of the wave influence which board to use? For example I saw at a surfshop that a more sharp board (for example the Raptor) is used for waves under 2 m.
Would you recommend a 6' 33 litre fish to me as I am a beginner?
Definitely not, try an get a foam long board. I’ve been surfing for a bit now and just picked up a 6’6 short board and it’s a hard transition
I just started surfing last summer and my first and only board (so far) is a 9" Torq "The Don". My goal for surfing is to cruise on waves and to some turns but nothing too insane. When is the right time to go shorter?
as soon as you feel like you're restricted being on your long board :)
Hi Kale - I have been riding a hybrid longboard (9'1" with 2+1 fin configuration) for about 2 years and was thinking about adding a smaller board to my quiver (as you say). What are your thoughts on mid-length boards (7'2") like a maxi fish shape. I am older but in good shape - (started surfing at 65). Most of the waves here at Ohope NZ (Bay of plenty east coast North Island) are a beach break and smaller (3-6 ft, 1-2 Meters). Goal is to get into some nice 4-6 foot waves and have some fun with turns. Your thoughts and suggestions for an older surfer. Cheers
i’m seeing this far after it was posted but it was a great help thanks… where do u surf
Starting out here in OB SD, living a mile from the beach so I'm hoping to get in every morning/night! I've learned some fundamentals a couple years ago, been snowboarding my whole life and have pretty good balance. Do you all think a Wavestorm 8' might be a solid first board I can stuff into my car/ carry out? I kinda wanna skip the foamy as I found it was WAY to buoyant
I really want to get into surfing. I am 5'8 and weigh 145. I have skateboarded all my life, but I've never surfed. What's a cool company to buy a board off of? let me know I am really into getting into this lifestyle.
Giovanni Guillen go to your local surf shop, they should be happy to point you in the right direction! For a beginner, I recommend a foamie.