Few folks struggling with the links, there you go! Wargamer Water Washable Resin yesthats3dprinted.com/?ref=XU9UT112H9Cvj9 FauxHammer @FauxHammer Dennys Wang @wangdennys J3Dtech @J3DTech VogMan @vogman Snarky Arts @snarkyarts8182
I think it's great you listened to all that feed back and instead of ignoring it you decided to see if there was something that you may've done wrong. I can see why 3D printing is considered a hobby all its own the time to learn how these machines work is no joke even after knowing the basics. Great video James, always enjoy learning something new when you post a video
I have been looking to get into the printing space for a while and I am so glad you are giving me teaching moments before I make the mistakes myself. You are a true teacher!
THE most important parameter is temperature. Not only room temperature but the temperature of the resin IN the vat but also the temperature of the build plate. A difference in temperature between these 3 can cause plenty of failures. I use OPR settings and I never get any major failures because their settings are really good once you have a minimum temperature range of 20°C but more is better (25°C). To achieve this, printing in a warm to hot environment is good but with a heating pad inside the lid of the printer that pre heats the resin in the vat and the build plate I have managed to print below 20°C room temperature (17/18). The heating pad comes with a thermometer and I have another thermometer with a cable to have room temperature and the cable inside the printer for printer temperature but all this needs a setup time of 1h to heat everything. Once it's all set, the printer (a humble Mars 2 Pro) goes BRRRR all day...
Personally I can't stand layer lines, so anything to get less of those is a plus in my book. Even if I lose some imperceptible amount of detail it's a trade off I'm more than happy to make.
Ross is right, I have a 2k and 4k printer and printed the same exact model on both and I can't tell the difference.m Also, go with NFEP instead of regular FEP sheets. It really does make a difference.
Got a 3D printer a few weeks ago, been trying to perfect a resin mix, so it's not too fragile. Will have to try this Fauxhammer one once I bulk print a load of Necromunda terrain to get through my current resin stash 😬 Does this resin have much bendability to the parts once cured, or do they just snap? Ideally a resin with the durability of plastic would be great, but I don't think it exists (yet!)
It’s still a bit brittle if you really go for it BUT I am not afraid to handle them and they flex a bit too. Kinda feels similar to GW minis if that makes sense
@@Xiv2022 that’s why I am trialling Wargamer, it’s new to the market and much more resilient than any other resin I have used before. I will keep an eye out for tenacious though.
I love 3d printing. Use it every day for work in a commercial design setting. I also use it at home to make masters for casting parts. The issue everyone skips over with resin printing is the tech was never designed for permanence. It was designed to produce samples to check for production issues before being sent to a proper manufacturer. Interior parts of models are rarely fully cured as the outside resin cures before it can get a chance to. It happens less with clear and highly translucent resin. The prints over time will also become extremely brittle as they are exposed to more naturally occurring UV light in the world around us. Painting slows down the process, but it doesn't stop it. We live in a time of impermanence, but all these models aren't going to be around for decades like the ones we see from 20-30 years ago.
Would smaller components have a better cure than larger fully printed models? Meaning just print single components and assemble them afterwards as gw already does to hopefully fully cure the individual parts rather than the whole mini?
You don't need to re-level everytime dude, especially if your prints are now popping off easily - your levelling should last months (with care when removing stuff) without needing redoing 👍
Yup, I only re levelled once, to be honest, I only included the re levelling footage for belts and braces. But thanks for taking the time to comment. It’s appreciated
i levelled my printer about 6 months ago and haven't had to touch the setting since. just make sure you do it right the first time, and tighten well. *ditch the shite allen wrench that comes with it and use a proper knuckle turn style*
The major pain is removing all the supports from a print then having to file all of the nubs off. Some models come with really thin easy break-off supports, but when you have to do your own supports, its a pain. 3D Printing is great for some types of models and others its a nightmare. I still swear by adding Tenacious Resin to normal resin. Its reduces breakages.
Yeh it can be tedious, and learning to support is another massive pain. I have been seriously impressed with this wargamer resin, its NOT cheap but it is flexible and tough.
Games Workshop should embrace this trend. Unlike the poor execution of Metallica against their own fan base, because of copyright. In this case Games Workshop should (EMBRACE IT - INCITE IT - LEAD IT) make their own 8K 3D printer, (PAY-HAMMER Printer) for their stores. Have a two tier hobby. "Base" army sets. Sold in boxes - starter packs and cost effective bundles. But then PAY-HAMMER the more exotic models, and customizations for their war leader and other special units. Pay-To-Win or Pay-To-Customize. The box set should come with a Internal scratch and win QR code for one complimentary PAY-HAMMER 3d print... like a WarLord or Heavy Support. Therefore all sold generic-pre-bundled-armies, get one highly customized model, to help distinguish that bundled army from other low cost bundled armies. This exposes the customer to the extremely nice experience of getting something special. In addition, the box for that custom PAY-HAMMER is also printed. Folded, assembled and all inserts / transfers / special terrain markers / options ... and other "goodies" are included in the box, along with the PAY-HAMMER custom.
@RisingApe terrain I think I had a stroke typing that but any ip that gets ripped off too much eventually dies like the hover bords when too many off brand rips came on the marker that whole idea crumbled
@@samholmes5552 gotcha, I completely agree, I’m a big fan of some of the Big IP and also lots of smaller art studios for busts too. There are some amazing proxy sculpts too which are pretty original.
As someone that spent hours bordering on days "dialing in" my Saturn 2... no... it didn't really help. yeah. It will get really good details on the stupid little test gimmick pieces. But then it would still fail on anything I actually want out of it (actual models). So know... it didn't help and the "community" didn't really help either unless you count "change this or leave the hobby" being constantly screamed at you (and then silence after showing that it didn't work) is "helping". Bottom line - Elegoo printers are junk, don't fall for marketing from the creator class and most of the community are more toxic than the resin.
I have to say I am not hugely involved in the 3D printing community, but that hasn't been my experience so far. recommend Fauxhammers discord. Dialling in my printer absolutely improved the models, BUT on a tabletop its not that noticable. for me all my minis are showin close up in 4k so its worth the effort.
the resin is far more an important factor than your printer. Love my elegoo mars 2, absolutely great prints almost never fails. unfortunately 3d printing isn't something you can ask for help in really, you have to figure it out yourself. someone may be able to tell if your exposure is too low or too high, but dialing in your own printer and resin is what you'll need to do. if it prints small pieces but not big ones, it sounds like a support issue. but like I said you'll need to figure it out yourself as you need to be there and see how the print is failing to figure out whats wrong. but like I said resin is more a factor than the printer. could be the resin needed a good shake before pouring out the bottle, you had a temp change, could be almost anything.
I heard that the Saturn 2 can be finicky. Something where the recommendations for leveling is off. Can't help properly since all I got is a Mars 2 pro. Which I enjoy a fair bit. Don't generalize only because you got a stinker.
Few folks struggling with the links, there you go! Wargamer Water Washable Resin yesthats3dprinted.com/?ref=XU9UT112H9Cvj9
FauxHammer @FauxHammer
Dennys Wang @wangdennys
J3Dtech @J3DTech
VogMan @vogman
Snarky Arts @snarkyarts8182
Thanks!
Don’t forget to soak your prints in warm/hot water after you clean them. The warm water will help the supports pop off much easier
That does help, honestly though, I have found just getting the supports right has meant I haven’t needed too.
@TheCrimsonArchivist you’re absolutely right, it does help.
Alternatively, a heat gun/hairdryer can do the trick and is a bit less messy
I think it's great you listened to all that feed back and instead of ignoring it you decided to see if there was something that you may've done wrong. I can see why 3D printing is considered a hobby all its own the time to learn how these machines work is no joke even after knowing the basics. Great video James, always enjoy learning something new when you post a video
Thanks appreciate that, yup, everyday is a school day
I have been looking to get into the printing space for a while and I am so glad you are giving me teaching moments before I make the mistakes myself. You are a true teacher!
Thanks that’s very kind
THE most important parameter is temperature. Not only room temperature but the temperature of the resin IN the vat but also the temperature of the build plate.
A difference in temperature between these 3 can cause plenty of failures.
I use OPR settings and I never get any major failures because their settings are really good once you have a minimum temperature range of 20°C but more is better (25°C).
To achieve this, printing in a warm to hot environment is good but with a heating pad inside the lid of the printer that pre heats the resin in the vat and the build plate I have managed to print below 20°C room temperature (17/18).
The heating pad comes with a thermometer and I have another thermometer with a cable to have room temperature and the cable inside the printer for printer temperature but all this needs a setup time of 1h to heat everything.
Once it's all set, the printer (a humble Mars 2 Pro) goes BRRRR all day...
Yup, while I was running these it was around 20 degrees, but that’s the next problem to fix
It is all about those settings, get them spot on and you are golden. Great vid mate I am glad you are now one of us! 🤣🤣
Haha, thanks mate really appreciate that
Thanks for the mention. 😊
No worries, I found your channel because of Ross (@fauxhammer) but it’s great!
Love your stuff mate, I've been Binging the Fallout Cosplay vids
Brewer belt fixes temp issue, ive been able to print in freezing temps with just that and a small heater
Good to know, I printed all last winter by just ramping up exposure but I may try something different now
I got a creality halot one too. It's my workhorse. Dial it in exposure wise and it will show you love.
💯 I love mine
7:11 Can't you replace the shields with brass shim or something? A shield that thick in scale would need four guys to lift it.
This was really just a calibration test
Personally I can't stand layer lines, so anything to get less of those is a plus in my book. Even if I lose some imperceptible amount of detail it's a trade off I'm more than happy to make.
Thanks for watching
Ross is right, I have a 2k and 4k printer and printed the same exact model on both and I can't tell the difference.m Also, go with NFEP instead of regular FEP sheets. It really does make a difference.
you had me at "Ross is Right" xxx - you are right about NFEP too!
Don’t tell him that, he is already too cocky
Got a 3D printer a few weeks ago, been trying to perfect a resin mix, so it's not too fragile. Will have to try this Fauxhammer one once I bulk print a load of Necromunda terrain to get through my current resin stash 😬 Does this resin have much bendability to the parts once cured, or do they just snap? Ideally a resin with the durability of plastic would be great, but I don't think it exists (yet!)
Also what's the smell like? I print in an apartment so 😷
It’s still a bit brittle if you really go for it BUT I am not afraid to handle them and they flex a bit too. Kinda feels similar to GW minis if that makes sense
The smell is fine but I would absolutely use an extractor/ have it in a shed/ garage
Add Tenacious Resin at above a 1:10 ratio to your normal resin. It will make your resin way more resilient to breakage.
@@Xiv2022 that’s why I am trialling Wargamer, it’s new to the market and much more resilient than any other resin I have used before. I will keep an eye out for tenacious though.
I love 3d printing. Use it every day for work in a commercial design setting. I also use it at home to make masters for casting parts. The issue everyone skips over with resin printing is the tech was never designed for permanence. It was designed to produce samples to check for production issues before being sent to a proper manufacturer. Interior parts of models are rarely fully cured as the outside resin cures before it can get a chance to. It happens less with clear and highly translucent resin. The prints over time will also become extremely brittle as they are exposed to more naturally occurring UV light in the world around us. Painting slows down the process, but it doesn't stop it. We live in a time of impermanence, but all these models aren't going to be around for decades like the ones we see from 20-30 years ago.
It’s a great, point, thanks, I hope the track improves with time.
Would smaller components have a better cure than larger fully printed models? Meaning just print single components and assemble them afterwards as gw already does to hopefully fully cure the individual parts rather than the whole mini?
that's a really valid point, any pointers on where to head for more information?@@user-it7kg3pm4q
You don't need to re-level everytime dude, especially if your prints are now popping off easily - your levelling should last months (with care when removing stuff) without needing redoing 👍
Yup, I only re levelled once, to be honest, I only included the re levelling footage for belts and braces. But thanks for taking the time to comment. It’s appreciated
i levelled my printer about 6 months ago and haven't had to touch the setting since. just make sure you do it right the first time, and tighten well. *ditch the shite allen wrench that comes with it and use a proper knuckle turn style*
Agreed, always use your own tools@@aunderiskerensky2304
It made for a good montage! 👌 @@RisingApe
@@lewiskearney3797 it did indeed 😄
The major pain is removing all the supports from a print then having to file all of the nubs off. Some models come with really thin easy break-off supports, but when you have to do your own supports, its a pain.
3D Printing is great for some types of models and others its a nightmare.
I still swear by adding Tenacious Resin to normal resin. Its reduces breakages.
Yeh it can be tedious, and learning to support is another massive pain. I have been seriously impressed with this wargamer resin, its NOT cheap but it is flexible and tough.
Did you decide to go blue steel or magnum for your UA-cam narrator face
Always blue steel 😉
you really don't need to relevel the bed after every print or test - I only level the bed if I start getting print failures - and that is rare.
💯 I actually only did this once, in the montage I should have chopped that bit out.
Is it just me or do none of the links in the description work? I was getting all 404s.
weird I will take a look
Games Workshop should embrace this trend. Unlike the poor execution of Metallica against their own fan base, because of copyright. In this case Games Workshop should (EMBRACE IT - INCITE IT - LEAD IT) make their own 8K 3D printer, (PAY-HAMMER Printer) for their stores. Have a two tier hobby. "Base" army sets. Sold in boxes - starter packs and cost effective bundles. But then PAY-HAMMER the more exotic models, and customizations for their war leader and other special units. Pay-To-Win or Pay-To-Customize. The box set should come with a Internal scratch and win QR code for one complimentary PAY-HAMMER 3d print... like a WarLord or Heavy Support. Therefore all sold generic-pre-bundled-armies, get one highly customized model, to help distinguish that bundled army from other low cost bundled armies. This exposes the customer to the extremely nice experience of getting something special. In addition, the box for that custom PAY-HAMMER is also printed. Folded, assembled and all inserts / transfers / special terrain markers / options ... and other "goodies" are included in the box, along with the PAY-HAMMER custom.
all the linked videos seem broken and show gibberish urls
Hmm no idea, I will check and try to fix, thanks for the heads ip
Not wrong just early.
A trigger warning before showing Ross’ face would be helpful next time I was in the middle of eating breakfast 😛
Haha 😂
my mum thinks I'm pretty.
The problem with 3d printing anything other than turane is ip theft and hurts wargameing hobby as much as the companies price gouging
Not sure what you mean by turane but I don’t agree with IP theft, proxies are all good though.
@RisingApe terrain I think I had a stroke typing that but any ip that gets ripped off too much eventually dies like the hover bords when too many off brand rips came on the marker that whole idea crumbled
@@samholmes5552 gotcha, I completely agree, I’m a big fan of some of the Big IP and also lots of smaller art studios for busts too. There are some amazing proxy sculpts too which are pretty original.
As someone that spent hours bordering on days "dialing in" my Saturn 2... no... it didn't really help. yeah. It will get really good details on the stupid little test gimmick pieces. But then it would still fail on anything I actually want out of it (actual models). So know... it didn't help and the "community" didn't really help either unless you count "change this or leave the hobby" being constantly screamed at you (and then silence after showing that it didn't work) is "helping". Bottom line - Elegoo printers are junk, don't fall for marketing from the creator class and most of the community are more toxic than the resin.
I have to say I am not hugely involved in the 3D printing community, but that hasn't been my experience so far. recommend Fauxhammers discord. Dialling in my printer absolutely improved the models, BUT on a tabletop its not that noticable. for me all my minis are showin close up in 4k so its worth the effort.
the resin is far more an important factor than your printer. Love my elegoo mars 2, absolutely great prints almost never fails.
unfortunately 3d printing isn't something you can ask for help in really, you have to figure it out yourself. someone may be able to tell if your exposure is too low or too high, but dialing in your own printer and resin is what you'll need to do. if it prints small pieces but not big ones, it sounds like a support issue. but like I said you'll need to figure it out yourself as you need to be there and see how the print is failing to figure out whats wrong.
but like I said resin is more a factor than the printer. could be the resin needed a good shake before pouring out the bottle, you had a temp change, could be almost anything.
I had no issues with my saturn 2..biggest thing that helped with mine was a brew belt to keep at temp
@@Bobyoudontneeemyname oh genius idea! I was using a space heater in the same room.
I heard that the Saturn 2 can be finicky. Something where the recommendations for leveling is off.
Can't help properly since all I got is a Mars 2 pro. Which I enjoy a fair bit.
Don't generalize only because you got a stinker.
Where's the link to the exposure test you use?
Apologies, updated the description but here it is. helpcenter.phrozen3d.com/hc/en-us/articles/6324821843993-How-to-Dial-in-Resin-for-Optimal-Results