For a Non-Professional DIY video, this one is pretty good. Your piping install is cleaner than I have seen many actual HVAC Journeymen do. As a licensed HVAC/Refrigeration guy here is a few tips and useful info: • That bush needs to go. I can see that you keep it trimmed around your central air Condensing Unit, however, even trimmed it’s limiting the airflow which is lowering your efficiency. With the mini-split condenser as well you want as much open flow as possible. The way those units work is air is pulled thru the finned Evaporator coil inside allowing the refrigerant in the lines to absorb the heat from the inside side space. Then when it gets to the outside condenser, air is pulled thru the finned coil slowing the heat in the refrigerant to transfer to the air. The instructions give you minimal clearances, however, having better airflow increases performance and lowers risk of damage to Compressor on overly hot days. Also, since the fan is pulling air across the outside coil, debris from foliage can also be pulled and cause your coil to get dirty leading to issues as outside temp rises. • The vacuum step is less about checking line-set tightness and more about removing moisture from system. Moisture and refrigerant/POE oil don’t mix. Too much moisture in a system causes the system to run at dangerously high pressures. (Dangerous to the system components). A micron gauge, that measures how much moisture is in the system, is relatively cheap in comparison to the other specialty tools you have bought for the job. Industry standard is to evacuate a system to below 500 microns before opening the system to the refrigerant charge. Your install is probably not going to be as badly affected by this issue as other DIY installs I have seen, bc you were smart enough to not open the system to moisture/contaminants until you were ready to make your connections. • The white tape that came with the unit is to protect the insulation from UV rays which will break it down. Since you used a jacket/close off system, your lines are protected and don’t require it at your connections. However, the flare connections should be insulated individually an sealed with glue or insulation tape after leak testing to avoid premature heat transfer and excessive condensation. • When leak testing flares mix dish soap with a bit of water in your spray bottle. The water just makes it spray better, the soap bubbles to alert you to leaks. • Only liquid refrigerant causes the chemical burn you were rightfully scared of. Liquid refrigerant is in the little line while unit is running in cool. Your access is on the suction line which contains low pressure gas. You don’t need to worry about a burn from the suction line. Also, gloves make refrigerant burns worse as the prolong the exposure of your skin to the chemical reaction. As an apprentice the worst reefer burn I ever got was directly related to my fear and the gloves I was wearing. Couldn’t get the gloves off quick enough.
Good info. I do work with HVAC techs and do testing on my day job as an electrical and mechanical engineer. So that’s where I’ve learned a little about this. I’ve debated trimming the bush thinner. I always felt that the bush provided evaporative effect on the condenser air plus prevents some direct sun exposure to the coils during summer when North side of house gets more sun than south where I’m at. It’s a compromise in my opinion to free flowing air, plus the bush isn’t that dense and has lots of open space in middle.
The best video on the mini-split installation, specifically the psi record tracking at different operation modes. The information is super helpful. Thank you so much!
And one of the first to do it so thoroughly. There are other videos out there that include using a tube for the port. I have incorporated that in my installs. I already installed three of them.
Looks a bit complicated for someone like me with no experience but slowly I’m getting more knowledge and sooner or later I’ll gain the confidence to tackle my install which has been sitting in my garage for 18 months so far. Thanks for such a detailed explanation and well made video. Hope your family is ok!!!!!!
Thanks...it was scary but thank god it wasn't worse, but everyone is OK now. If you already have it, it shouldn't be that difficult if you do it one part at a time. It can be a day project, if you had some help. But getting the electrical and everything setup maybe the most time consuming. I'd say set electrical and the pad and measure all the distances and location before you start.
I ran into the same issue with the drain line on the outdoor unit. I mounted it right on the concrete block like yours and forgot to put the drain valve on originally so I propped it up stuck it on and then tried to put it back down and it wouldn't fit so I just threw it away. Thanks for the video
Just did my own 18000BTU unit and it worked out great. I hook these things up all the time as an electrician. I had a day to be an HVAC guy and wow those cover pieces brought out some colorful language. Overall like a 6 hour ordeal.
This is an exceptional video. Thanks for doing it! I’m sure I’ll be referring to it several times over the next week! My biggest concern is bending the tubing 90 deg, where it exits the outside wall. But will just be extra careful with it.
That tube bend is very scary due to kinking, need to slow bend and try to get a spring tube bender guide inside if you can to prevent the kink. Those usually come in the flaring kits.
Thank you for doing this video. I did learn from you, I am a do-it-yourselfer, but I really think it's important to use a torque wrench. You said the torque on the 1/4 line was 11 ft-lb which is the minimum. Manual recommends 11.06-14.75 ft-lb. Not torquing properly is the number one cause of leaks in the system. I learned the hard way and had to pay a professional $500 to come in and find the leak and recharge the system in two units I installed myself without torquing properly. Installing a split is a big job with a lot of steps and not doing the torquing right can ruin your whole install. Otherwise a great video. Thanks
Yea much easier than the experts think. Take your time. It’s probably a several day process unless you have helping hands. Most time consuming is getting power to your external location and making install clean. It took me weeks due to only a few hours a day to do work. Plus family emergency delayed me two weeks.
very comprehensive video. Only note is that Pioneer instructions recommend a dedicated branch circuit versus tapping into GFI. Not sure it really matters...
Yea I knew that but I was trying to make it easy. My plan was to pull a 20A branch to that outlet and GFCI when I do my subpanel on that side of garage. Right now it works unless I put a vacuum cleaner or other high amp device on the same circuit. I added enough other 20A outlets in my garage that I have more than enough options when using lots of devices. I also separated my lighting circuit and a few other circuits in the garage off of that minisplit circuit just to reduce trips.
Thank you very informative. I already have a Central AC for the upstairs. We just recently had are home warranty replace the heating exchange unit outside. Well they we're lazy and mounted it one inch away from the wall, and didn't bother mounting it to the plastic base it was on. It's not really powerful enough to cool off the upstairs on a hot day, unless it was running about two-thirds of the day just to get to 78 degrees upstairs. I'm taking that I really should pay extra to drain the lines instead of replacing the entire AC system. In the meantime , I was thinking of getting one of these pioneer or mr. Cool, and mounting it under the window. I promise it will block the lawn mower on the side of my house. So I will have to take up the lawn mower every time I need to move it to the backyard. Shouldn't be a problem. I can get a two cycle lawn mower out of state the only weighs 30 lb oh, and use that one for my backyard and another one for my front yard.
I see you didn't install a surge protector? Great video, I can't tell you how many times I've watched it. My pioneer 110v is waiting for pick up at Home Depot as I type this. I'm still a bit concerned but your video helps.
Thank you so much for this great video. I’m going to attempt to install mine in next month, thanks to you I feel fairly confident. One question/suggestion on the water spray to check for leaks can I put some dawn soap so it would bubble up easier if something was leaking? Used to do that for tires
@@TunerwithKids another great diy channel that kid is detailed and patient like you. Thanks again, bless you and your family and don’t forget to take time enjoy them every moment you get.
Hi great job! I have a question..you have power coming already from the inside unit to the outside unit..my question is, why do you need a 2nd line of power coming from the disconnect box? If you are already getting the power from the inside air handler..thats where am confused..
@@TunerwithKids the unit i purchase just recently purchase..which i have not installed yer is different..the air handler has its own electric cord, and then the other awg-4 cable has like 4 strand multi color cable ..black blue gray green/yellow..so that one i connect it from the 4 ports in the air handler to the outside unit and match it to the same ports in the outside unit...however i do not see another port for power and the disconnect..the unit is from Prime is a 110v 12,000 btu unit...am just puzzle as to how am going to put a disconnect on this, if i dont see a port for it...
Great video. Thanks for all your work. I've ordered my unit and will be installing it in my Polebarn. The work that you showed will help me with my install.
Thanks for the video. It is really helpful. However i have a question for you. My pioneer 9000but has the high pressure service line. I think it was 3/8 connector. I have 3/8 connector head but it couldnt be threaded in bc it was too short. I wish i could upload a pic here. Anyway, any suggestion? I really appreciate it
During the unboxing of the indoor unit, you noted that there are two filter pieces included. Did you install these? The Installation manual doesn’t have any instruction for using them.
The 10/2 is the outdoor whip from disconnect. This unit needs a minimum 20A, 120V circuit with 12/2 romex. You can use bigger wire down the line but never smaller. If you have a unit that is 220v, same 20A but it’ll be dual for higher voltage.
Curious why you went with a 110V instead of a 220V? Being 220 is much more efficient to run a mini split with the amount of area you have to cool down. (I assume heating is not as big an issue for you). It seems like you would save a lot of wear and tear on the compressor and your electric bill. I just got a 110V 12K Btu for a much smaller space of 200 sq/ft for one are and about 450 sq/ft if I decide to open a door into another space directly infront of the air flow of the unit. Was it all about availability of your service panel or running a line from the panel to the garage? I personally chose the 110 due to both reasons. I would have to go into a very tight crawl space and then change out a few breaker to slim lines. The crawl space and the size of my space to use mini split was a factor for me. 110 at 12K btu's seemed like a good compromise for me. Getting too old to crawl around a tight crawl space.
The deal at the time was for 110V version. Plus easier to get that power vs running a dual pole 220V in a full panel. Also the voltage doesn’t affect efficiency or wear. It’s still the same wattage but higher amps on lower voltage.
@@TunerwithKids Interesting, I've never understood the benefits of using 220 until my electrician buddy told me that using 220 saves money and is more efficient. I notice you mentioned you're job is in engineering I believe. So now I"m even more curious about the differences of using 110 vs 220. Can you give me your point of view as to why it doesn't effect either efficiency or wear. I'm going to have to read up on those differences now. And I hope you're right, because I was concerned about buying a 110 unit for my area especially to heat up.
Higher voltage means less amps, so you can move more energy thru same lines and put more devices or load on the circuit. A 120V, 20A circuit is good for about 2,400 watts. Same 20A on 240V can double that power draw. The max minisplit you can do on a 120V is 1 ton (12,000btu). Any higher and you need 240V power. As for the efficiency, you may gain a small amount of efficiency based on the compressor power curve, but these minisplit shave variable refrigerant flow and compressor so they are already efficient and any difference between 240V and 120V are probably negligible especially at part load.
Home Depot website says you need 12/3 wire (which is technically 4 with a ground). I am thinking they're wrong and it only takes 12/2 as you show (two wires plus a ground) for 110V.
Thinking about adding a similar unit to my garage so this was incredibly helpful. So after having this installed for some time now do you still think a 1-ton unit is large enough for your garage?
Most of the year it’s good. I do most of my work in the forth tandem bay so it provides good cooling there. When I’m in the under the car lift and closer to the doors, I have a tower fan that relays cool air toward that direction. This was never intended to cool all the time or the entire 800SF.
A disconnect is meant to disconnect, it’s not an overcurrent device (breaker or fuse). It always needs to be rated higher amps than the breaker (like wiring).
Drainage of the condensation? I show somewhere around the pipe cover installation part. I have the pipe running down the line and out to ground before the line turns to the condenser.
Funny a lot of these videos don't mention having to get a vacuum pump or a vacuum gauges to check that out they almost imply that all you got to do is hook it up and open it up and I always wondered what about the air that's in the lines you know you somehow have to get that out but I don't see how you hook up the vacuum lines without losing the vacuum and sucking all that air right back in
The Mr Cool units supposed have sealed lines that don’t need vacuum. The pioneer units need to be vacuumed. There is a service valve with Schrader valve that keeps air out/in. Pulling the vacuum is to get debris and contamination out before releasing the R410a from the precharged condenser unit.
@@max_versus No… I cut him nothing! You want to work Professionally? You dress the part. Everything’s fun and games until you lose your big toe? Work smart!
A little bit of kinking is tolerable. What you don't want is a link so tight that it gets to create a leak. Otherwise a little predicting in the pipe thickness is ok, no changes on pressure. I don't know why you had to run the vacuum for 30 mins but maybe is designed that way, mine can suck a system depending on the length of the lines and dimension in 5-10 mins, sometimes less, especially a minisplit. You don't want to abuse a vacuum pump by having it overworking but I got you. What I do, after I know I vacuumed the system is I close the low pressure valve first, while it'll continue vacuuming the lines up to the pump, then close the pump line if you're using those gauges, or turn off the pump, I give it 5 mins, that should be enough. Or 29 if in doubt, if the gauges doesn't move from 30 psi below atmosphere pressure, the system is sealed, you can open the valves, and run your system. You basically done your number 1 or so installation, you can do it now yo others and make some money out of it.
The 30 mins vacuum was a suggestion I saw in another video. It was a rental pump so no telling how reliable or quick it was. I wanted to make sure no issues so I left the vacuum as long as I could to make sure no drop in pressure readings. It was my first time doing all of this.
For the strain relief you picked up to install the wiring that controls the unit, what size is it and where did you get it from? I think you might have said lowes? Thanks!
Not recommended since line may have contamination in it. The vacuum also verifies that there are no leaks. The vacuum can be borrowed for free at AutoZone. Just need to get some gauges.
I'm having bugs come in from outside through the piping... can i seal/cover the outside portion or is that not a good idea? (I did not install this unit)
@@TunerwithKids Thanks. They installed it where the pipes were coming into the side of the unit. As such, they covered those things with the click-together rectangular piping (about 6-8 inches from wall to unit). I didn't have any spray foam on hand, so I used hard foam pieces I had laying around and then filled their gaps with caulking lol. I think this should keep them out- unless they are really intent on getting it.
According to the National Electrical Code, major appliances including ductless mini splits should have their own dedicated circuit. Can't connect to an outlet. Your unit calls for 20A breaker, 34:33 on top of everything. 16GA wire you've got later on is not good for internal unit wiring, that one calls for 14GA minimum. Can't solder high voltage wires, had to install a junction box...
I explained that the 120V I used was temporary. I’ve since connected that to a dedicated 20A. The 16AWG SO cord was from the manufacturer for extending the wiring between the condenser and evaporator. The cord that that came was 16AWG but a few inches too short for me.
@@TunerwithKids Fully support installing 20A dedicated circuit! Manufacturer extension cord - as long as you live in an area that is under the National Electrical Code (NEC): "A box, conduit body, or other enclosure, with a cover installed, shall be required for all splices", "Soldered splices shall first be spliced or joined so as to be MECHANICALLY and electrically secure without solder and then soldered." Soldering doesn't make a splice a permanent connection for NEC. While it will most likely work just fine, the connection between the condenser and air handler is 120V. There are two legal ways to extend the cord: 1.Replace it with proper length 2. Install an approved enclosure with a cover so splices can be accessible. Those includes conduit with a connection box.
Question from someone who knows next to nothing about this: When you release the refrigerant, what is keeping it from making its way through the hose up to the pressure gauge?
looks like you have a 3 car garage from looking at some of your videos... Isn't 12,000 BTU too small? I just had to do a size double than that in my 3 car... I'm probably a tad bit oversized for about 700sq ft...
It’s a 4 car (middle is tandem). I only needed AC in the 4th tandem stall as that’s where I do most of my work and have my lift now. Wasn’t conditioning it 24/7 or trying to cool the whole space. When I’m working in other parts I put out a quiet tower fan to distribute the air and it’s good to go.
Just installed the same unit in my garage. It is running all the time on Cool mode. It almost seems not to detect tempter inside and just go's. I heard the fan runs 24 hrs a day but the compressor goes on and off . What say you ? Thanks
All minisplit evaporator fans run 24/7 but the condenser modulates on and off based on setpoint inside. It’s how they work, not like your traditional split systems.
@@bbllyy also, for garages, you should only turn on if you’re using the garage. No point in running 24/7 since they aren’t insulated and will waste energy.
Seems like a small minisplit for your garage? How many square feet do you have? One note on those diamond cutting hole saws that you get off amazon, I tried that once but I needed to punch a 4-in hole for a dryer vent through a brick wall, those drill bits have about two cutting teeth and if your house is like my house and you have bricks those teeth are going to either catch at the mortar or catch at the edge of the brick and it'll break your damn arm when that drill goes twisting. They might be good for cinder block or for more of a solid cement type of concrete the boy I'll tell you what on bricks I've never found one that's worked with a dam
Yea 1-ton is small for 800SF but I really only need to condition the tandem 4th car bay where I do most of the work. Not trying to cool the whole space 24/7 since there’s three cars.
Tools, you can get free vacuum rental like I did at AutoZone. I bought the drill bits and gauges from Amazon (see links in description). The rest is mounting stuff, fittings and supplies which I also got from Amazon.
Very impressive video and you are very technical savvy as well. Quick questions, if you don't mind. I am also trying to extend my mini split cables as you did. However, the original cables (which confused me) attached are: 1. H07RN-F 40015999 450/750V 3G1.5MM2 (3 cores) 2. H05RN-F 40015999 300/500V 2X0.75MM2 (2 cores) Do you have any idea what type of cables that are compatibles with those 2 above? The mini split I have is 115V, 12000BTU, 10.1/10.7A. Thanks a bunch in advance for your advice!!
I am about to purchase same unit. Did you use a dedicated 20 amp breaker for this or did you use an existing 115 volt outlet. also, how did you bend the copper? thanks
I got a 120V version and just tapped existing power from nearby 15A circuit and GFCI but I plan to feed the outlet and the unit a 20AMP service when I run a new sub panel.
Yea luckily for my house all the 120V outlet have GFCI breakers. Only circuits on regular breakers are ones for dedicated room GFCI or the major appliance direct power via Jbox.
I ran it to the disconnect on wall. I pulled power from existing GFCI circuit right below. It’s only a 15A so it’s just enough to work. I have to pull a dedicated 20A one of these days when I add a 100A subpanel in my garage for oven and EV charger.
850sqft garage with 12k 1 ton unit? My garage is 1100 sqft and was told I need either a 36k minimum or 2 24k units. Curious how efficient it is in FL? I am in AZ
Pushing the limits but I’m not conditioning all the time or trying cool the whole space. Just need the bay I’m working in cool. I usually run a fan to circulate around garage if I want it cooler elsewhere. The doors let in a lot of heat so I insulated to help.
@@TunerwithKids what is a So cord if you don't mind me asking..have another question , so I should be able to use my 2,000 watt generator using my Rv cord then with no problem and be able to use the heat also.. really a great video you put together . Thanks for answering me so quick.
For a Non-Professional DIY video, this one is pretty good. Your piping install is cleaner than I have seen many actual HVAC Journeymen do. As a licensed HVAC/Refrigeration guy here is a few tips and useful info:
• That bush needs to go. I can see that you keep it trimmed around your central air Condensing Unit, however, even trimmed it’s limiting the airflow which is lowering your efficiency. With the mini-split condenser as well you want as much open flow as possible. The way those units work is air is pulled thru the finned Evaporator coil inside allowing the refrigerant in the lines to absorb the heat from the inside side space. Then when it gets to the outside condenser, air is pulled thru the finned coil slowing the heat in the refrigerant to transfer to the air. The instructions give you minimal clearances, however, having better airflow increases performance and lowers risk of damage to Compressor on overly hot days. Also, since the fan is pulling air across the outside coil, debris from foliage can also be pulled and cause your coil to get dirty leading to issues as outside temp rises.
• The vacuum step is less about checking line-set tightness and more about removing moisture from system. Moisture and refrigerant/POE oil don’t mix. Too much moisture in a system causes the system to run at dangerously high pressures. (Dangerous to the system components). A micron gauge, that measures how much moisture is in the system, is relatively cheap in comparison to the other specialty tools you have bought for the job. Industry standard is to evacuate a system to below 500 microns before opening the system to the refrigerant charge. Your install is probably not going to be as badly affected by this issue as other DIY installs I have seen, bc you were smart enough to not open the system to moisture/contaminants until you were ready to make your connections.
• The white tape that came with the unit is to protect the insulation from UV rays which will break it down. Since you used a jacket/close off system, your lines are protected and don’t require it at your connections. However, the flare connections should be insulated individually an sealed with glue or insulation tape after leak testing to avoid premature heat transfer and excessive condensation.
• When leak testing flares mix dish soap with a bit of water in your spray bottle. The water just makes it spray better, the soap bubbles to alert you to leaks.
• Only liquid refrigerant causes the chemical burn you were rightfully scared of. Liquid refrigerant is in the little line while unit is running in cool. Your access is on the suction line which contains low pressure gas. You don’t need to worry about a burn from the suction line. Also, gloves make refrigerant burns worse as the prolong the exposure of your skin to the chemical reaction. As an apprentice the worst reefer burn I ever got was directly related to my fear and the gloves I was wearing. Couldn’t get the gloves off quick enough.
Good info. I do work with HVAC techs and do testing on my day job as an electrical and mechanical engineer. So that’s where I’ve learned a little about this.
I’ve debated trimming the bush thinner. I always felt that the bush provided evaporative effect on the condenser air plus prevents some direct sun exposure to the coils during summer when North side of house gets more sun than south where I’m at. It’s a compromise in my opinion to free flowing air, plus the bush isn’t that dense and has lots of open space in middle.
The best video on the mini-split installation, specifically the psi record tracking at different operation modes. The information is super helpful. Thank you so much!
One of the better mini split installation vids on UA-cam.
Thanks. I tried to show much more details than some of the vids I watched to prepare for this. Most show beginning and skip to the start up.
are you serious 😐
And one of the first to do it so thoroughly. There are other videos out there that include using a tube for the port. I have incorporated that in my installs. I already installed three of them.
Looks a bit complicated for someone like me with no experience but slowly I’m getting more knowledge and sooner or later I’ll gain the confidence to tackle my install which has been sitting in my garage for 18 months so far.
Thanks for such a detailed explanation and well made video.
Hope your family is ok!!!!!!
Thanks...it was scary but thank god it wasn't worse, but everyone is OK now.
If you already have it, it shouldn't be that difficult if you do it one part at a time. It can be a day project, if you had some help. But getting the electrical and everything setup maybe the most time consuming. I'd say set electrical and the pad and measure all the distances and location before you start.
This video helped me a ton and just got mine install today and it is working great. Love the video and unit too. Thanks for the great video
i am putting the same unit in taking my time just to make sure i am doing it just like you sir well done from peoria az.
Good job I learned alot by your instellation ❤
Your videos are seriously great. So much detail, easy to understand, and filmed with care. Thank you!
I ran into the same issue with the drain line on the outdoor unit. I mounted it right on the concrete block like yours and forgot to put the drain valve on originally so I propped it up stuck it on and then tried to put it back down and it wouldn't fit so I just threw it away. Thanks for the video
Just did my own 18000BTU unit and it worked out great. I hook these things up all the time as an electrician. I had a day to be an HVAC guy and wow those cover pieces brought out some colorful language. Overall like a 6 hour ordeal.
That’s fast to finish in 6 hours.
Bro I finish in 2hours
@@MVW_YAASIN With the new electrical circuit added too? If so, you are a freakin monster. Don't demand less than $250/hr for your work.
More than impressed with your video, thank you, and stay safe. Glad to hear you, and your family are okay.
i just ordered one off amazon for my shop great vid thank you sir.
This is an exceptional video. Thanks for doing it! I’m sure I’ll be referring to it several times over the next week! My biggest concern is bending the tubing 90 deg, where it exits the outside wall. But will just be extra careful with it.
That tube bend is very scary due to kinking, need to slow bend and try to get a spring tube bender guide inside if you can to prevent the kink. Those usually come in the flaring kits.
BEST VIDEO FOR THIS INSTALLATION THANK YOU
Thank you for doing this video. I did learn from you, I am a do-it-yourselfer, but I really think it's important to use a torque wrench. You said the torque on the 1/4 line was 11 ft-lb which is the minimum. Manual recommends 11.06-14.75 ft-lb. Not torquing properly is the number one cause of leaks in the system. I learned the hard way and had to pay a professional $500 to come in and find the leak and recharge the system in two units I installed myself without torquing properly. Installing a split is a big job with a lot of steps and not doing the torquing right can ruin your whole install. Otherwise a great video. Thanks
Thanks for this. Glad the kids are OK. 😊
Thanks, it was a close call and still have PTSD.
Nice job.. take care your family first. 👍
Thank u sir, u r awesome. Including yours, I've watched 5 installs from other guys, I am now ready to DIY haha
Yea much easier than the experts think. Take your time. It’s probably a several day process unless you have helping hands. Most time consuming is getting power to your external location and making install clean. It took me weeks due to only a few hours a day to do work. Plus family emergency delayed me two weeks.
@@TunerwithKids I hope your family is all well now. 🙏 take care bro.
Thanks for the video. Well done!
very comprehensive video. Only note is that Pioneer instructions recommend a dedicated branch circuit versus tapping into GFI. Not sure it really matters...
Yea I knew that but I was trying to make it easy. My plan was to pull a 20A branch to that outlet and GFCI when I do my subpanel on that side of garage. Right now it works unless I put a vacuum cleaner or other high amp device on the same circuit. I added enough other 20A outlets in my garage that I have more than enough options when using lots of devices. I also separated my lighting circuit and a few other circuits in the garage off of that minisplit circuit just to reduce trips.
Thank you very informative. I already have a Central AC for the upstairs. We just recently had are home warranty replace the heating exchange unit outside. Well they we're lazy and mounted it one inch away from the wall, and didn't bother mounting it to the plastic base it was on.
It's not really powerful enough to cool off the upstairs on a hot day, unless it was running about two-thirds of the day just to get to 78 degrees upstairs. I'm taking that I really should pay extra to drain the lines instead of replacing the entire AC system. In the meantime , I was thinking of getting one of these pioneer or mr. Cool, and mounting it under the window. I promise it will block the lawn mower on the side of my house. So I will have to take up the lawn mower every time I need to move it to the backyard. Shouldn't be a problem. I can get a two cycle lawn mower out of state the only weighs 30 lb oh, and use that one for my backyard and another one for my front yard.
Thanks for the video. It was helpful!
Fantastic video. Very detailed. Thanks!
I see you didn't install a surge protector? Great video, I can't tell you how many times I've watched it. My pioneer 110v is waiting for pick up at Home Depot as I type this. I'm still a bit concerned but your video helps.
I actually just installed a whole house surge in my recent video. I’m considering individual ones for my ACs also but haven’t gotten around to it.
Thank you so much for this great video. I’m going to attempt to install mine in next month, thanks to you I feel fairly confident. One question/suggestion on the water spray to check for leaks can I put some dawn soap so it would bubble up easier if something was leaking? Used to do that for tires
Yea soapy water like ChrisFix uses is fine. I was lazy and used water but I was confident it was fine especially if it holds vacuum for hours.
@@TunerwithKids another great diy channel that kid is detailed and patient like you. Thanks again, bless you and your family and don’t forget to take time enjoy them every moment you get.
*****update***** late update but I got it installed successfully about 10 months ago. Thanks
Great Job! Thanks for the Info
Hi great job! I have a question..you have power coming already from the inside unit to the outside unit..my question is, why do you need a 2nd line of power coming from the disconnect box? If you are already getting the power from the inside air handler..thats where am confused..
Inside unit uses power off the outside unit.
@@TunerwithKids the unit i purchase just recently purchase..which i have not installed yer is different..the air handler has its own electric cord, and then the other awg-4 cable has like 4 strand multi color cable ..black blue gray green/yellow..so that one i connect it from the 4 ports in the air handler to the outside unit and match it to the same ports in the outside unit...however i do not see another port for power and the disconnect..the unit is from Prime is a 110v 12,000 btu unit...am just puzzle as to how am going to put a disconnect on this, if i dont see a port for it...
@newpass9434211 odd. Most minisplit and AC have disconnects on outside. But I guess you should open the instructions and see what they tell you
This is really great.
Great video. Thanks for all your work. I've ordered my unit and will be installing it in my Polebarn. The work that you showed will help me with my install.
Very good instructions A1
Thanks for the video. It is really helpful. However i have a question for you. My pioneer 9000but has the high pressure service line. I think it was 3/8 connector. I have 3/8 connector head but it couldnt be threaded in bc it was too short. I wish i could upload a pic here. Anyway, any suggestion? I really appreciate it
Great video, do I must have to purchase gauge set and vacuum pump OR I can install and run the mini split AC without these items?
During the unboxing of the indoor unit, you noted that there are two filter pieces included. Did you install these? The Installation manual doesn’t have any instruction for using them.
The filter goes on top of the unit. It’s really a bug and large dirt screen filter
great video man 👌
Great video!
The only thing confusing is I wish you would use the proper color of the tubing that goes with the gauges other than that it was good
I think it was due to the vacuum not connecting to the pump and gauge. Had to use another line.
You used #10-2 wire but didn’t mention what kind of breaker works for this unit? 20amp? 25amp? Or 30amp?
The 10/2 is the outdoor whip from disconnect. This unit needs a minimum 20A, 120V circuit with 12/2 romex. You can use bigger wire down the line but never smaller. If you have a unit that is 220v, same 20A but it’ll be dual for higher voltage.
Curious why you went with a 110V instead of a 220V? Being 220 is much more efficient to run a mini split with the amount of area you have to cool down. (I assume heating is not as big an issue for you). It seems like you would save a lot of wear and tear on the compressor and your electric bill. I just got a 110V 12K Btu for a much smaller space of 200 sq/ft for one are and about 450 sq/ft if I decide to open a door into another space directly infront of the air flow of the unit. Was it all about availability of your service panel or running a line from the panel to the garage? I personally chose the 110 due to both reasons. I would have to go into a very tight crawl space and then change out a few breaker to slim lines. The crawl space and the size of my space to use mini split was a factor for me. 110 at 12K btu's seemed like a good compromise for me. Getting too old to crawl around a tight crawl space.
The deal at the time was for 110V version. Plus easier to get that power vs running a dual pole 220V in a full panel. Also the voltage doesn’t affect efficiency or wear. It’s still the same wattage but higher amps on lower voltage.
@@TunerwithKids Interesting, I've never understood the benefits of using 220 until my electrician buddy told me that using 220 saves money and is more efficient. I notice you mentioned you're job is in engineering I believe. So now I"m even more curious about the differences of using 110 vs 220. Can you give me your point of view as to why it doesn't effect either efficiency or wear. I'm going to have to read up on those differences now. And I hope you're right, because I was concerned about buying a 110 unit for my area especially to heat up.
Higher voltage means less amps, so you can move more energy thru same lines and put more devices or load on the circuit. A 120V, 20A circuit is good for about 2,400 watts. Same 20A on 240V can double that power draw. The max minisplit you can do on a 120V is 1 ton (12,000btu). Any higher and you need 240V power. As for the efficiency, you may gain a small amount of efficiency based on the compressor power curve, but these minisplit shave variable refrigerant flow and compressor so they are already efficient and any difference between 240V and 120V are probably negligible especially at part load.
Nice video, but mix some soap into that water to see bubbles
You felt a kinking only kinking you ever feel Mr. Asian need 2 more inches that's something I never thought
Saw your awesome video on the pioneer mini split. How is it doing? Are you happy with it? I am thinking of getting one.
Love this thing. No way I can work in the garage in middle of summer or spring in FL without one.
850Sq/f ? Dude, your garage is larger than my house.
Home Depot website says you need 12/3 wire (which is technically 4 with a ground). I am thinking they're wrong and it only takes 12/2 as you show (two wires plus a ground) for 110V.
12/3 liquid tight whip is labeled differently than 12/2 or 12/3 romex.
Thank you so much! Question - what do you do if you end up with a leak?
Check your fittings. Tighten. Get a leak detection oil.
Thinking about adding a similar unit to my garage so this was incredibly helpful. So after having this installed for some time now do you still think a 1-ton unit is large enough for your garage?
Most of the year it’s good. I do most of my work in the forth tandem bay so it provides good cooling there. When I’m in the under the car lift and closer to the doors, I have a tower fan that relays cool air toward that direction. This was never intended to cool all the time or the entire 800SF.
@@TunerwithKids Thanks for the reply. So if you had to to do it over again, would you go with a larger unit?
Not for the costs or the extra power circuit needed.
Hi. Can I put 20amp breaker for 60amp non fuse box ? I confused. Thanks
A disconnect is meant to disconnect, it’s not an overcurrent device (breaker or fuse). It always needs to be rated higher amps than the breaker (like wiring).
What about the drainage installation, I’m having hard time with drainage
Drainage of the condensation? I show somewhere around the pipe cover installation part. I have the pipe running down the line and out to ground before the line turns to the condenser.
Funny a lot of these videos don't mention having to get a vacuum pump or a vacuum gauges to check that out they almost imply that all you got to do is hook it up and open it up and I always wondered what about the air that's in the lines you know you somehow have to get that out but I don't see how you hook up the vacuum lines without losing the vacuum and sucking all that air right back in
The Mr Cool units supposed have sealed lines that don’t need vacuum. The pioneer units need to be vacuumed. There is a service valve with Schrader valve that keeps air out/in. Pulling the vacuum is to get debris and contamination out before releasing the R410a from the precharged condenser unit.
Thank you.
Love how these dopes work in flip flops?
I do all my work in flops. Makes me more careful 😂😂😂
C'mon cut him a break. He's just working around his house and not clocked in at work. Not like he was wearing ballet slippers
Great video! 👍
@@max_versus
No… I cut him nothing!
You want to work Professionally? You dress the part. Everything’s fun and games until you lose your big toe?
Work smart!
almost an hour spent without any compliance ... You did great!
So its a really easy install? I thought i needed a 220 for a three zone but if you can use a 110 im in luck
I need one so bad i gets so hot here last year it was 116
anything higher than 12,000BTU needs 220V.
A little bit of kinking is tolerable. What you don't want is a link so tight that it gets to create a leak. Otherwise a little predicting in the pipe thickness is ok, no changes on pressure.
I don't know why you had to run the vacuum for 30 mins but maybe is designed that way, mine can suck a system depending on the length of the lines and dimension in 5-10 mins, sometimes less, especially a minisplit. You don't want to abuse a vacuum pump by having it overworking but I got you. What I do, after I know I vacuumed the system is I close the low pressure valve first, while it'll continue vacuuming the lines up to the pump, then close the pump line if you're using those gauges, or turn off the pump, I give it 5 mins, that should be enough. Or 29 if in doubt, if the gauges doesn't move from 30 psi below atmosphere pressure, the system is sealed, you can open the valves, and run your system. You basically done your number 1 or so installation, you can do it now yo others and make some money out of it.
The 30 mins vacuum was a suggestion I saw in another video. It was a rental pump so no telling how reliable or quick it was. I wanted to make sure no issues so I left the vacuum as long as I could to make sure no drop in pressure readings. It was my first time doing all of this.
For the strain relief you picked up to install the wiring that controls the unit, what size is it and where did you get it from? I think you might have said lowes? Thanks!
It’s probably a standard 1/2” knock out strain relief. If it wasn’t part of the kit, I probably had one from a light fixture cord laying around.
Excellent video - thank you!
Hello, I don't have anything to do like you said such as vacuum and charge like that. Can I just make good connections and turn it on?
Not recommended since line may have contamination in it. The vacuum also verifies that there are no leaks. The vacuum can be borrowed for free at AutoZone. Just need to get some gauges.
I'm having bugs come in from outside through the piping... can i seal/cover the outside portion or is that not a good idea? (I did not install this unit)
Spray foam would be best.
@@TunerwithKids Thanks. They installed it where the pipes were coming into the side of the unit. As such, they covered those things with the click-together rectangular piping (about 6-8 inches from wall to unit). I didn't have any spray foam on hand, so I used hard foam pieces I had laying around and then filled their gaps with caulking lol. I think this should keep them out- unless they are really intent on getting it.
My interior unit was not pressurized upon arrival. When I took the flare nuts off nothing hissed out. Is this a problem?
Not really. It’s probably lost it during shipping. Just vacuum the system before you release from condenser.
Binh. I installed a 1 ton pioneer mini split and I'm getting no cold air and outside fan not turning on.
Check power and make sure valves are open?
According to the National Electrical Code, major appliances including ductless mini splits should have their own dedicated circuit. Can't connect to an outlet. Your unit calls for 20A breaker, 34:33 on top of everything. 16GA wire you've got later on is not good for internal unit wiring, that one calls for 14GA minimum. Can't solder high voltage wires, had to install a junction box...
I explained that the 120V I used was temporary. I’ve since connected that to a dedicated 20A. The 16AWG SO cord was from the manufacturer for extending the wiring between the condenser and evaporator. The cord that that came was 16AWG but a few inches too short for me.
@@TunerwithKids Fully support installing 20A dedicated circuit! Manufacturer extension cord - as long as you live in an area that is under the National Electrical Code (NEC): "A box, conduit body, or other enclosure, with a cover installed, shall be required for all splices", "Soldered splices shall first be spliced or joined so as to be MECHANICALLY and electrically secure without solder and then soldered." Soldering doesn't make a splice a permanent connection for NEC. While it will most likely work just fine, the connection between the condenser and air handler is 120V. There are two legal ways to extend the cord: 1.Replace it with proper length 2. Install an approved enclosure with a cover so splices can be accessible. Those includes conduit with a connection box.
Question from someone who knows next to nothing about this:
When you release the refrigerant, what is keeping it from making its way through the hose up to the pressure gauge?
There are valves on the hoses.
looks like you have a 3 car garage from looking at some of your videos... Isn't 12,000 BTU too small? I just had to do a size double than that in my 3 car... I'm probably a tad bit oversized for about 700sq ft...
It’s a 4 car (middle is tandem). I only needed AC in the 4th tandem stall as that’s where I do most of my work and have my lift now. Wasn’t conditioning it 24/7 or trying to cool the whole space. When I’m working in other parts I put out a quiet tower fan to distribute the air and it’s good to go.
Just installed the same unit in my garage. It is running all the time on Cool mode. It almost seems not to detect tempter inside and just go's. I heard the fan runs 24 hrs a day but the compressor goes on and off . What say you ? Thanks
All minisplit evaporator fans run 24/7 but the condenser modulates on and off based on setpoint inside. It’s how they work, not like your traditional split systems.
@@TunerwithKids Thank you so much !
@@bbllyy also, for garages, you should only turn on if you’re using the garage. No point in running 24/7 since they aren’t insulated and will waste energy.
Seems like a small minisplit for your garage? How many square feet do you have?
One note on those diamond cutting hole saws that you get off amazon, I tried that once but I needed to punch a 4-in hole for a dryer vent through a brick wall, those drill bits have about two cutting teeth and if your house is like my house and you have bricks those teeth are going to either catch at the mortar or catch at the edge of the brick and it'll break your damn arm when that drill goes twisting. They might be good for cinder block or for more of a solid cement type of concrete the boy I'll tell you what on bricks I've never found one that's worked with a dam
Yea 1-ton is small for 800SF but I really only need to condition the tandem 4th car bay where I do most of the work. Not trying to cool the whole space 24/7 since there’s three cars.
by my calculations i will spend about $200 on tools is that correct? I heard someone say on another video that tools would cost about $1200?
Tools, you can get free vacuum rental like I did at AutoZone. I bought the drill bits and gauges from Amazon (see links in description). The rest is mounting stuff, fittings and supplies which I also got from Amazon.
Where is the 110 plugged in at
Very impressive video and you are very technical savvy as well.
Quick questions, if you don't mind.
I am also trying to extend my mini split cables as you did. However, the original cables (which confused me) attached are:
1. H07RN-F 40015999 450/750V 3G1.5MM2 (3 cores)
2. H05RN-F 40015999 300/500V 2X0.75MM2 (2 cores)
Do you have any idea what type of cables that are compatibles with those 2 above?
The mini split I have is 115V, 12000BTU, 10.1/10.7A.
Thanks a bunch in advance for your advice!!
That 16/3 SJO cord (power) and 20/2 cable data.
@@TunerwithKids Excellent, and thank you so very much for yr quick response!! Have a blessed day to you and yr entire family!
do you have to have an outside unit with the mini split unit
Yes. Needs a place to reject the heat.
I am about to purchase same unit. Did you use a dedicated 20 amp breaker for this or did you use an existing 115 volt outlet. also, how did you bend the copper? thanks
I got a 120V version and just tapped existing power from nearby 15A circuit and GFCI but I plan to feed the outlet and the unit a 20AMP service when I run a new sub panel.
As of 2020 you need to use a GFCI circuit breaker when you do your final install.
Yea luckily for my house all the 120V outlet have GFCI breakers. Only circuits on regular breakers are ones for dedicated room GFCI or the major appliance direct power via Jbox.
What happened to to the drain hose?
It’s coming down the line cover and I drilled a hole on the elbow to exit.
Where Did you plug in the 110v line At?
I ran it to the disconnect on wall. I pulled power from existing GFCI circuit right below. It’s only a 15A so it’s just enough to work. I have to pull a dedicated 20A one of these days when I add a 100A subpanel in my garage for oven and EV charger.
27:12 Every guy can use a couple extra inches... Nice ..
850sqft garage with 12k 1 ton unit? My garage is 1100 sqft and was told I need either a 36k minimum or 2 24k units. Curious how efficient it is in FL? I am in AZ
Pushing the limits but I’m not conditioning all the time or trying cool the whole space. Just need the bay I’m working in cool. I usually run a fan to circulate around garage if I want it cooler elsewhere. The doors let in a lot of heat so I insulated to help.
Use soapy water next time.
Did you use 10/2 wire ?
This unit only needs a 20A circuit. So the feeder needs to be at least 12/2. The weather proof whip I got for the outside to the disconnect is a 10/2
@@TunerwithKids what if I can only find a 10/3 whip ?
@@TunerwithKids I have the 110V/120V unit and I don’t see a 10/2 whip 😕
The whip is actually 10/3 which is different than how romex is named.
@@TunerwithKids thanks your saving so much right now lol
Use soapy water
Hey can this be rigged up to plug in to a generator or power strip?
Not advisable. It needs 15A circuit. You can theoretically do it but the power source is at the outdoor condenser. So you’d need an SO cord.
@@TunerwithKids what is a So cord if you don't mind me asking..have another question , so I should be able to use my 2,000 watt generator using my Rv cord then with no problem and be able to use the heat also.. really a great video you put together . Thanks for answering me so quick.
It’s a cord with “SO” or “SOJ” outer rubber insulation. Basically a rubber cord out of any appliance.
@@TunerwithKids thanks for getting back so quick..have great evening.
@@TunerwithKids yeah I got it figured out now, pretty simple
Every guy can use 2" LMAO