my friend these hollow walls can be a problem but your video absolutely nails the issue and I'm really sorry for the pun. Looking forward to my fixing tool arriving tomorrow
the drill size is normally written on the box they come in. are you using - Rawlplug SM Interset hollow wall anchors, have you tried the Rawlplug AT-88rawl setting tool ? double check there is not a power cable / water or gas pipe etc behind where you are going to drill. I drilled an 8mm diameter hole in a solid wall, which had pre war tiles on it, and as I drilled in, it made a whistling sound, I had just drilled through a steel gas supply pipe, I had to turn the gas off, chase the rendered wall down, chisel the concrete floor up to trace the gas pipe back to a joint, where I plugged it off, and then make good. as the gas pipe was going up to the bathroom where there used to be a gas water heater, an extra days work for nothing, I was only going the put a pipe clip on the wall.
When fixing 'blind ", I poke a long terminal driver carefully though, then insert a curved bit of wire and rotate 360 degrees,,, this ensures there's enough clearance behind, for the anchor to expand, without hitting studding, etc etc.. Then drill the exact size hole, Hope this little tip helps someone,,, cheers,,
Have you used setting tools with hooked anchors? I have the Rawl tool in the video - and have attempted to use the tool as you would normally - but the 'hook' prevents the tool from fitting...? Have you ever come across this?
I've ordered one of these to put up a mirror on plasterboard, do you just keep pulling the trigger of the gun until you feel resistance or do you just pull it once & the anchor opens up ?
@@PlumbingGy Thanks for this. I've seen people on other videos giving it more than one "pump", but they didn't explain what determined when to stop pumping. Someone on another video commented that the Rawlplug version of this tool had 2 settings. The first pull gave you 5 mm and the 2nd pull gave you 10 mm. I wondered if this was to allow for longer fittings e.g. for double plasterboard (although that would need about 25 mm wouldn't it...?) Anyway, I've recently bought the Rawlplug tool, though not used it in anger yet, so will have to check this out.
Couple of ways I have done is to either hole saw it out and repair, or hit the fixing bolt with a hammer until it pops and u can remove then screw in a larger bolt to push the arms out and straighten then remove and repair. 👍🏻
I watched this video hopeful for an in depth review of each tool and their minor differences. Sounds like one has a release? what exactly does that do?
When you pull to tighten the spring locks in place so it saves where you are you then add more pressure to set it to the correct depth and use the release trigger to reset the tool 👍🏻 I personally find the one without the lock better but that's my personal opinion hope it helps
@@PlumbingGy thanks Dan, I was considering the one without the lock, dispute the additional cost, because it looks like it would store better in a tool bag and take up less room. Are you still able to fully set the anchor with the non-locking setup? I guess if you had to you could spin the bolt into the anchor if it didn’t have a long enough stroke to finish the job on the first go around. I appreciate your reply, thanks!
my friend these hollow walls can be a problem but your video absolutely nails the issue and I'm really sorry for the pun. Looking forward to my fixing tool arriving tomorrow
the drill size is normally written on the box they come in. are you using - Rawlplug SM Interset hollow wall anchors, have you tried the Rawlplug AT-88rawl setting tool ?
double check there is not a power cable / water or gas pipe etc behind where you are going to drill. I drilled an 8mm diameter hole in a solid wall, which had pre war tiles on it, and as I drilled in, it made a whistling sound, I had just drilled through a steel gas supply pipe, I had to turn the gas off, chase the rendered wall down, chisel the concrete floor up to trace the gas pipe back to a joint, where I plugged it off, and then make good. as the gas pipe was going up to the bathroom where there used to be a gas water heater, an extra days work for nothing, I was only going the put a pipe clip on the wall.
I used these when mounting my tv bracket 👍 solid 💪 didnt know they even did a setting tool! Great video!!
Thanks man ❤️🍻
When fixing 'blind ", I poke a long terminal driver carefully though, then insert a curved bit of wire and rotate 360 degrees,,, this ensures there's enough clearance behind, for the anchor to expand, without hitting studding, etc etc..
Then drill the exact size hole,
Hope this little tip helps someone,,, cheers,,
Great idea there John as always 👍🏻
Have you used setting tools with hooked anchors? I have the Rawl tool in the video - and have attempted to use the tool as you would normally - but the 'hook' prevents the tool from fitting...? Have you ever come across this?
I've ordered one of these to put up a mirror on plasterboard, do you just keep pulling the trigger of the gun until you feel resistance or do you just pull it once & the anchor opens up ?
You keep loading until you feel the resistance 👍🏻
@@PlumbingGy Thanks for this. I've seen people on other videos giving it more than one "pump", but they didn't explain what determined when to stop pumping.
Someone on another video commented that the Rawlplug version of this tool had 2 settings. The first pull gave you 5 mm and the 2nd pull gave you 10 mm. I wondered if this was to allow for longer fittings e.g. for double plasterboard (although that would need about 25 mm wouldn't it...?)
Anyway, I've recently bought the Rawlplug tool, though not used it in anger yet, so will have to check this out.
Great video mate thanks a lot
Nice vid. Any tips on how to remove those anchors from plasterboard Once they've expanded?
Couple of ways I have done is to either hole saw it out and repair, or hit the fixing bolt with a hammer until it pops and u can remove then screw in a larger bolt to push the arms out and straighten then remove and repair. 👍🏻
I watched this video hopeful for an in depth review of each tool and their minor differences. Sounds like one has a release? what exactly does that do?
When you pull to tighten the spring locks in place so it saves where you are you then add more pressure to set it to the correct depth and use the release trigger to reset the tool 👍🏻 I personally find the one without the lock better but that's my personal opinion hope it helps
@@PlumbingGy thanks Dan, I was considering the one without the lock, dispute the additional cost, because it looks like it would store better in a tool bag and take up less room.
Are you still able to fully set the anchor with the non-locking setup? I guess if you had to you could spin the bolt into the anchor if it didn’t have a long enough stroke to finish the job on the first go around.
I appreciate your reply, thanks!
How I work the one without the lock is do the first pull on the anchor screw it back in and go again ✌🏻
@@PlumbingGy, excellent information, thank you Dan! Cheers
wonder why they dont make that flange w/ teeth abit wider in diameter. that thing is like barely bigger than the hole. lol
You don't mention the all-important release trigger
Have you tried toggler snap toggles??? 👍👍👍♣️♣️♣️♣️
No Paul I haven't, I have just had a look at what they are and something I am going to try 👍🏻👍🏻