How to Use Resin Anchors to Fix Heavy Things to Brick, Block and Concrete - Complete DIY Guide
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- Опубліковано 24 тра 2024
- In this video i will be showing you how to use chemical resin anchors. I will explain how to fix heavy things to brick, block or concrete using resin anchors. This video will be especially helpful if you want to learn how to fix timber to a brick wall. If you like the content leave a like and please subscribe for more content like this as I've got a lot more to come and there will be something that will help you out.
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What’s the heaviest thing you’ve used these fixings for? They are so strong!
My Mother in law
😂
Massive feature rad that was about 6ft tall into the crappy breeze block wall. It pulled out the extra large rawl plugs, then tried metal rawl plugs and it pulled them out too. Chem-fix hasn’t moved at all. The breeze block is 80 shite that you can dig out with a screwdriver.
Proof is in the pudding 👍
@TheDIYGuy1
It's "the proof of the pudding is in the eating." 😊
3:28 Lectures about drilling into brick walls, and then proceeds to drill the holes through the mortar between the bricks.
Never ever use those things in mortar joints, only use in bricks or concrete !
Why not?
Mortar should always be softer than the bricks, and it’s not a stable structure to drill into for fixings as it deteriorates and crumbles with time, always use a stable structure for your fixings especially for heavy gates etc
Totally new for me resin anchors so looking forward to giving them a try. Thanks for the awesome demo 👍
My pleasure!
Good timing. I'm putting up a floating loft bed shortly and resin wall anchors were recommended. Another very helpful video!
Excellent!
Added to my diy useful list. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Very useful video. Never used chemical fixings before but definitely will in the future. Thank you 👌🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Very useful! Thanks.
Your welcome 😊
Brilliant product - will come in handy for building my garage room! Thanks
Great to hear!
Slowly renovating my house and recently came across the DIY Guy's videos. Fantastic stuff. Clear and simple. Explained well and the step by step approached if great for semi-novice like myself. Don't ever stop, DIY Guy!!!!!!
Awesome, thank you! I shall continue 😊
another good one bud 👍
Thanks 👍
Thanks for a really interesting vid - I've only ever used screws and wall plugs to fix into masonry. Might give these resin anchors a try next time I need something heavy duty.
Try them and you won’t be disappointed
Resin is overkill for a job like this imo. It was for demonstration purposes. The wood would most likely break before a true bolt or Dyna bolt would give way.
Wicked video as always. Used these for the first time this morning, wish i waited till this video 😂 but it all went well. Solid
Great to hear!
Excellent vid thankyou, I've got plenty of jobs to do and this vid will help for at least a couple of those jobs. 👍❤️🇬🇧
No problem 👍
I’ve used these to anchor a squat rack to our chimney breast in the cellar and a pulley machine on another wall. Amazing stuff.
Absolutely 👍
Thanks another great video
👍 glad to help
Great vid
🙌 glad you liked it
I used resin to anchor very long bolts that we inserted into the holes that we drilled through the rings of railway arches, which were then tightened with a large plate and a bolt.
Still there in Camden, near the Hawley arms.
Proof right there 👍
I'm looking to fix my PC case to the kitchen wall (plaster / brick) as the innards are easy on the eye through the glass door and I want to free up desk / floor space. It's a fairly expensive PC build so I've been looking for something strong that gives me confidence it will hold as the PC is quite heavy. This method could be just the thing. Thank you, good video as always. Keep up the great work. You're appreciated.
Thanks, will do! This method should work for your pc
Another really great how to video. Would have been good if you'd explained why/when to use this over more traditional fixings
Great point, glad you liked the vid
Good demo. Looking forward to using my resin now, as odd as that sounds!
Thanks, go for it 🤗
Used these to put in my 2 post lift with m18 studs. Very strong, allowed nut to be torqued up. I like the fact that its a bond, and not friction by expansion of a plug, which i felt could stress what you have drilled into.
Great points!
👍👍👍. Thank you
Thank you too
I've had blockwork give way and break before the resin. Super strong stuff.
Your right!
Have used resin anchors for years, Used for industrial machine installation foundation bolts brill
Amazingly strong aren’t they!
A question for ya John... can this stuff be injected into cracks to make a structural repair ??.. 🤔
@@peterfitzpatrick7032 yes have seen this also in property foundation
@@peterfitzpatrick7032 yes have seen this recently on a UA-cam channel on a property subsidence repair
@@johnwallis96thanks John, I have a few cracks that need work..
😎👍☘🍺
Usually use coach bolts will consider using this next time thanks
Give it a try 😊
You can use the threaded rod in the drill if you dont have a drill bit to match the rod for a clearance hole
Great vid! Also my innuendo alarm is going off in my head all the way through 😂
😂
People, please spend a bit of time and read the specs that come with the Resin, it gives you all the specifications for drill bit size and depth into the wall.
👍
To clean out the drilled hole stick a small flexible tube in to the far end, shut your eyes and…. … blow!
Good video, resin is great on softer substrates such as soft Norfolk reds as you are probably aware. I, like you, have the Dewalt blower but it may be worth mentioning that you can purchase the hand pumps for a not a lot of money if the budgets tight! 👍🏻
Good points there, thanks
Great video. I was told to always drill into the brick rather than the mortar? Does it matter?
Used resin anchors to install a very heavy pair of wooden gates into building block. They're still doing the job 4 years on, without any compromise.
I would point out though, make sure the hole is perfectly clean - no dust or debris, otherwise you compromise the integrity of the fixing. Hope this helps
Thanks for sharing 👍
I usually drill one hole first, insert the fastener loosely and then level and drill the other hole. Avoids any minor differences arising when drilling two marked holes
Is it best to drill into the mortar or the brick?
I always center drill the brick. I assume I'm more likely to get movement or unwanted disruption during the drilling process if I go into (old) mortar.
Its good stuff for sure, only ever really used it where the substrate is poor though. No need for using it where mechanical fixings will suffice.
👍
If using threaded rod, how far shoudl I drill a hole into a standard cavity wall? Outer brick only or all the way through the cavity into the 2nd course?
Would this product work on a no-fines concrete building? Maybe later in the year i would like to build a lean-to on the side of our house. Would need to fix timber to the house to set the roof joists on.
Oh, and we have 50mm external insulation and render to contend with, so wouldnt want to compress/crush the insulation.
Thanks for the vid.
Everyone says don’t go in the mortar well if these bricks are extruded with 3 to six vertical cavities there is not much at all when you go through the extrusion.Older bricks were solid and much stronger so I go through the mortar on modern extruded bricks.
Any advice on drilling cured chemical anchor out? Just an sds bit or does it have a different consistency to stone when drilling?
Would this be suitable for installing a pull up bar to the wall? (Wall is only 1 brick thick, new build cavity wall) . Thanks !
Will this method work for a crumbly stone wall?
I wish I knew of this resin when doing my deck. I'd personally never counter sink as that's now the weak spot and that small washer with nut will pull through eventually. A nice big 25mm+ washer on the face of the board won't.
Must admit I’m a fan of rawl bolts mainly because they give a degree of flexibility , as a retired electrical contractor fixing say heavy items that may over time finish up being relocated , it was handy to be able to remove them if needs be . But I appreciate it’s down to personal choice , I would say I would tend to avoid fixing into the mortar joints were ever possible . Kind regards 👍
That was a great demo, why did you drill inti the mortor and not the brick? Thanks for this grest video, best regards from a Kiwi living in Australia, Les
probably because he wants to remove it all after the video and refill the mortar joint rather than having a hole in the bricks that would always look like a filled hole in a brick
I thought that was a weakness, brick or concrete would be much stronger.
Is there any difference between drilling between bricks and onto the surface of the brick? Is it drilling between bricks making it hold stronger?
I want to re seal round my windows doors externally, any tips and hint would be appreciated 👍
Hii I’m going to build a stud wall on a existing stud wall in a bathroom so I can put the pipe work though for shower what’s the best way to get good fixing 11:08 11:08
Wow that’s impressive. I wonder how well it works in hollow walls with that cage though.
👍 they are pretty strong in both, give it a try if you’ve an opportunity
I used these to anchor my squat rack, rock solid. If i ever move though no idea how I'd remove them, if it's even possible. That'd be a good follow up video i think.
The only real way to remove is to cut them off or out
You can opt for threaded insert anchors and bond them flush with the surface. Expensive but neat as it means you can retro-attach any thickness of support later by just using a different bolt length. Great for temporary / seasonal attachments too. The drill hole needs to be a lot larger (12-14mm for an M8 insert) so you'd want to drill in the center of the brick but the extra surface area makes for an amazing load bearing anchor. For domestic purposes it might sound a little over engineered but having a really reliable and reusable steel threaded hole in your wall could have many valuable uses. For threaded insert resin anchors check out Rawlplug and Fischer.
Good vid .. only thing I would say is it would be a good idea to wear protective glasses. I’ve had a slight splash of the resin in my eye and it’s not recommended 😂
Another great video.
I am guessing you are promoting these products and resin is another option I suppose but the resin is only as strong as the mortar you have drilled into.
I would always go with expanding anchor bolts into brick for the strongest fixing.
I think it's one of your videos I watched, collecting the brick dust to repair holes if needed afterwards? Plus the anchor bolts will come out easier than resin when reversed.
But what do I know, I'm only the window cleaner 😂
Thanks, actually not a promotion or sponsorship, just a product I like. I agree resin isn’t the best solution for removal.
Hi cameron how about a free tracer pencil. Im chucking away those big bulky carpenters pencils once and for all.
Two genuine questions
Why did you drill the motor rather then the brick
And why can't you use a vacuum cleaner to suck all the dust out of the hole
Great channel btw
Love watching
Because the mortar is an easier repair should I want to remove it in years to come. Realistically it’s super strong regardless of where you place it.
High pressure blown air is more effective than a vaccum at removing the dust.
Thanks 👍
Would be interesting which is stronger a hole in the middle of the brick or in the motar.. Not sure which would be stronger.. Brick would likely be stronger but more prone to cracking?
Potentially, I’d also like to know the answer to that one. I’ve never had one of these fixing fail in brick, mortar, block or in fact anywhere!
They are supposed to go into the centre of the brick. For that rawl resin it says 50mm edge distance. I work for a company that manufactures resin anchors 😊
For the pre cut anchor rods - from the end that goes into the hole you’ll see there’s a gap about 40-50mm from the top where’s there no thread, that’s normally the recommended embedment depth into the concrete or brick
Never fix into mortar! Always solid substrate. Compressive strength of mortar is usually a lot less, and if you look at capacity tables load capacity is highly dependent on compressive strength due to some of the failure modes. Also needs to be styrene free as external environment will make resin go brittle and weak otherwise
Great vid! However, I'm wondering if this would be suitable for sandstone walls? I have a 1890's cottage which has had some salt damp damage (treated a year ago) and a bit of the stone has disintegrated in room entrys and the back wall has a 3 degree slant. Do you reckon if I use longer threaded rods I could essentially build a little frame to square off the entry ways then install plasterboard as opposed to trying to build the lot back up with render? :/ I intend to do the same with some battons to level out the wall.
Sandstone is terrible to work with! We had a cottage in North Shropshire and whilst the red sandstone was lovely to look at, well you know the rest. We had a similar problem, and the sparky we had told me what other people in the area did. Sadly it involved removing more sandstone, painting with bitumen paint, allowing seepage holes and building a brick wall on the vertical.
If the sandstone ever gets wet again, the render will fail.
Thanks for the video. Why drill into the mortar rather than in the brick?
Easier to repair later and no less strong in a real world application as you see by the test at the end
Will this method be strong enough to support threaded bar (x 4) on a brick wall to go through an old car wheel to wrap a 40ft hose pipe around ?
Should be!
Well done for limiting the raffall tickets to Just 300👍 I see so many UA-camrs not doing that.
Thanks 😊. The competition was surprisingly popular! If you guys like them I’d be happy to do some more in the future.
@@TheDIYGuy1 Definitely, A lot of channels I watch run regular Rainfall competitions, the odd £1 (or more if one wants) once in a while it's always worth a go 👍
IMO, for brickwork a stronger, cheaper, cleaner, and easier fixing is an EXPANSION BOLT inserted into the mortar where THREE BRICKS meet.
If the item being fixed is heavy duty, such as a 75-100 mm post, longer threaded bolts or studding will replace the original bolt.
Unbeatable holding capacity!
Great video, as always! Out of curiosity why do you not use a vacuum to get the dust out? I recall you use a vacuum prior to installing the Corefix plugs? Thanks in advance
Vaccum just doesn’t get enough of the dust away. With resin it’s a bond and corefix isn’t so it’s not essential with corefix to remove every bit of dust
@@TheDIYGuy1 Ah right, makes sense, thank you!
Pro tip, if you will need to cut off the bolt/stud, then install the nut on First 👍🏻
Good tip!
I've worked with a lot of anchors in my time, at least I think that's what they were called.
Haha brilliant!
Does the resin work well in thermolite blocks? Had some rawl plugs come out that held my ladder brackets up - mind you it took 20 years before the rawl plugs gave up.
Yes it does 👍
Just out of curiosity... what is it you're using the anchors for with the timber?
A bin storage area👍
What is the reason that it is better to blow the dust rather than vacuum it?
It’s higher pressure air, vacuum may well not remove all of the dust
Hi mate. Sorry to say this, I love you now, shes got no chance. Cheers Shane
😂😂
Yes I was wondering why he used the mortar joint rather than the brick
Maybe handy to use a marksman to mark the holes
Yep you could do 👍
Why would you use these over anchor bolts? (Genuine question not being smart). Anchor bolts/sleeve anchors have a very strong fixing strength and no need to mess around with resin and wait times. I guess for cavity block with the sleeve you showed, resin anchors might make sense but not sure why they might be worth it over anchor bolts when fixing to solid block.
Also, the likes of Gosforth Handyman reccomend to always drill into brick and not mortar (to avoid potential blow out) but i guess with the resin it'll fill the void.
A few applications where resin wins over sleeve anchors. Hollow blocks (when used with the correct mesh sleeves) or if you need to put a hole close to the edge of a block / brick / slab whatever, where sleeve anchor expanding may blow the edge out. My only comment would be whenever possible, drill into the brick. Resin is at least as strong as the substrate and certainly stronger than even the best mortar. As someone who installs dozens of anchors of various types each week to install machinery, impact barriers etc. I think any DIYer following that vid. won't go too far wrong.
Is the gun used specific to the resin or can you use a normal sealant gun? Thanks for the video
Normal gun 👍
@@TheDIYGuy1 Thanks for the response!
CT1
CT1 is good eh
Hey, I have just fixed a radiator to the wall in my Victorian house and one of the fixings just isn’t biting in to the brick behind the plaster. I’m assuming I’ve hit a mortar joint or the brick has just crumbled. Is this two part resin the best product for the job? I’m concerned I’ll not be able to torque the fixing properly after I apply the resin and the radiator mount will still be loose albeit the screw will be solid in the resin.
Would appreciate your thoughts!
To give an accurate answer I’d have to be there and see it. Firstly check it’s actually a brick/solid wall. Then all you can really do is give it a try. If it doesn’t bite you should be able to rip the anchor out with the resin.
@@TheDIYGuy1appreciate the reply. It is a solid brick wall. I have fixed the other three fixings in to brick but the fourth just won’t torque even with a couple of plugs hammered in to the hole. I’ll give the resin a try, struggling for other options.
Ideally you should drill into the brick not the mortar bed. Mortar bed still very strong by the looks of it. I'm lowering my ceilings for my loft conversion, but ill definitely be avoiding the mortar beds especially when carrying the floor of my house.
Personal experience is I’ve never had any issues regardless of the fixing point. They remain crazy strong.
@TheDIYGuy1 Indeed. Once a floor is in technically, all the load is vertical, so it's not going anywhere I guess 😀
We want to put an awning on side of the garage and the screws have gone right through the brickwork, which it stipulates not to do when putting it up… will this stuff hold the brackets for it do you reckon. Awning weighs about 23kg thanks ( roll out ) awning
I reckon it should do 👍
@@TheDIYGuy1 Oh thanks for the quick reply, much appreciated 👍🏻, keep your fingers crossed for me 🤣
What’s the shelf life of the resin once opened if you didn’t use it all please ?
My polyester resin has an unopened shelf life of a year. It might be different for epoxy.
The 2 parts are mixed in the nozzle tube so will cure hard after first use. Some resins come with a spare tube so you can attempt to clear the exit holes of the cartridge and use what remains at a later date. I've not tried this myself.
problem 1. Waste of time. Wait for an hours? haha
p2. Drill into the brick for strength. if you hang a 30kg punch bag on that, I assure you your top 3 layers will crack. I saw the cement crack already (right side).
p3. even if you wrap the bolt with carboard it will still hold 100KG at that 60mm depth into the wall.
Good point is that I do see practical use for it. Some installation does get loose, and this resin will be useful for a quick fix
as this is an outside application, I would have used a stainless steel material. These rods and nuts will rust and that will be the end of the anchor. Will take a couple of years, but then again....
Why not just use rawplug anchors?
thunderbolts , drill + fix no waiting easy
👍
There exactly what I use when I make floating shelves
👍 great use for these
Only plugs ive used is expansion anchors to attach a safe to a brick wall 😅
Give these a try 😊
My structural engineer has specified resin fixings for a domestic floor, they are strong enough.
What's the point of a resin anchor, if you then put it in the mortar instead of the brickwork?
Watch the test and see how strong it is
don't vacuum ? why? what's the difference?
Why exactly can’t you use a vacuum cleaner to suck out the dust from the drill hole?
Blowing is more effective than vaccum
Has the winner been announced yet ?
The raffle runs until June 22nd or when all of the tickets have sold 😊
@@TheDIYGuy1 how do I purchase a ticket ?
Check out the Raffall link in the video description. You can grab 1 or more tickets over there. They are going fast
@@TheDIYGuy1 thanks man 👍👌
Have you done a video on your favourite or most used tools adapters or equipment ?
sometimes I use Hilti products
Yeah? Good stuff theirs!
You didn’t explain why the dust shouldn’t be sucked out of the drilled hole? I can’t fathom out what the difference would be other than a vacuum leaving a cleaner job for the resin.
If your vacuum is placed over the hole then there is no air flow so no dust can be extracted. A vacuum for dust extraction only works if there is a way for air to move from a higher to lower pressure creating air velocity. If it was a through hole it would work fine.
R-Kem II 🤔
What happened to his dad R Kem the first?
Given ke a great idea for adding something in the shed to hold mass8ve boy bikes! Shpuld be easy achievable now and im a women haha
Absolutely, go for it 😊
Get your own resin and catylist..
Resin or metal anchors? I’ve always used metal.
Depends on the job for me
@@TheDIYGuy1 I used metal anchors in brick to secure 2 extendable awnings. I don’t know if I’d trust resin over a long period?
65kg? No way you are only just over 10 stone.....
Why can’t you use a vacuum for the dust?
High pressure air is more effective at removing the dust than a vaccum
Why blow the dust out and not suck?
Just does a better job of getting the dust out
Always drill into the brick,not the mortar joint…. Basic mistake
Not a mistake at all because that’s where I wanted to drill. As you can see by the test at the end of the video, it’s impossible to make it fail under heavy load even in mortar.
Yeah right 😂😂😂😂😂 took away loads of strength from the timber as well . Should’ve gone into the brick, should’ve used a washer as well. You don’t drill through timber in a straight line either as it splits A skeleton gun?? Wtf called a mastic gun
Shocked that you are going into mortar and M8 into 10mm mortar is even worse. Its got way less holding power than the brick.
Makes zero difference in my experience unless going in under the top course. Did you watch the test? The threaded rod or timber would fail before the resin fails within the mortar
Why not just use a wall plug , instead of all that palarva.and expense.
They don't call it death glue for nothing
Should have gone into the brick imo